LIVE | DIY Re-seal your Caravan, Poptop, or RV roof. We fix our Jayco Swan Camper Trailer! Its easy!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- In this episode we show you how easy it is to reseal the roof of your caravan, poptop, camper trailer or RV as demonstrated on our Jayco Swan.
This is an easy to complete DIY task using simple tools and techniques. In our case we have chosen to use neutral cure silicone over polyurethane for reason described in the video, however we will leave it up to you to decide on the sealant. The methodology remains the same fortunately.
We run you through the steps as and have included as chapters to help you along the way:
00:00 - Introduction
01:05 - What do you need?
05:44 - Preparation
06:16 - Stripping your existing sealant
13:33 - Clean with Isopropyl
15:15 - Masking the joints
16:30 - Sealant application and finishing
24:55 - Conclusion
As always we also provide a list of the tools and materials used:
Neutral cure silicone sealant:
Bostik V4 - Non Acetic White (2 tubes)
bigredcaravanparts.com.au/pro...
Stanley FatMax 18mm Snap Off Knife
Bunnings I/N: 5760084 standard or I/N: 5760084 (for a new integrated snap off version which I used)
Kincrome Safety Folding Scraper
Bunnings I/N: 5760288
Spare blades I typically use Craftright Scraper Blade - 100 Pack - Bunnings I/N: 5760185
Trojan 200mm Laminate/Fibro Cutter
Bunnings I/N: 0191102
Scotch 24mm x 55m Rough Surface Extra Strength Painter's Masking Tape
Bunnings I/N: 1214133
Diggers 500ml Isopropyl Alcohol Cleaner
Bunnings I/N: 1560549
Paint Partner 4 Piece Silicone Scraper Set (silicone finishing set)
Bunnings I/N: 1660196
Bondall CornerTape Standard Silicon Remover:
Bunnings I/N: 1660553
Ryobi One+ 18V Cordless Caulking Gun:
Bunnings I/N: 6210421
Thanks for watching. Please subscribe to our channel, give us a thumbs up if you enjoyed and leave a comment or two to help others also.
As we always say get out there, stay safe and have fun!
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#wlp
#jayco
#bostik
#ryobi
#bunnings
A much more tidy job than what Jayco did 👌
I am not usually confident in anything DYI although due to having a leak in my Jayco Swan and not being able to get it booked in for some time, I gave this a crack after finding your video. Your instruction were fantastic and easy to follow. I just finished mine and it looks great. Thanks so much for this video.
Great video, good instruction and content.
Appreciated the time you put into it.
I love the clear explanation it gives me confidence to have a go
Just wanted to say thanks for the vid. Helped me convince myself to reseal my ol 1983 Coleman Camper. The best vid on resealing your popup. Awesome stuff.
Great video, very well explained. I feel pretty confident in having a crack at it now myself!
If you ever need to do another demo clip you can use my van 😉. You have done a great job, great at explaining why and what you’re doing.
Thanks Caroline. I try to keep as simple yet detailed as I can. Its one of those jobs which is quite daunting however once finished does look fantastic and most importantly preserves the van. I've looked at soo many project caravans lately with water damage. If you tackle it just remember preparation is key, the more you can strip out or remove the better.
Love your videos, only in this video I would rather push the silicon gun rather than to pull the silicon gun. When you push the silicon gun, you straight away push some silicon into the gap. Just an idea.
Great video.. very helpful... just in the middle of doing it now
Hi Steve - glad you enjoyed it and it helped you out!
Loved your video thank you very much will help me out with my Jayco Westport. Only inclusion that I would have is how to work on a wider roof space with a joint in the middle like the Jayco Westport has.
Once again thanks for this video it was excellent!!!!
Fantastic video. I remember viewing this a while back, but didn't get around to it (end up with a leak). I'm about to get into it tomorrow using your recommendations. Thank you.
No worries, hope it all went well 👍
Got a eagle that could do with a couple of corners if you want to film it. Very informative vid. It will make my reseal heaps easier.
Can’t believe I chanced on this video…this is exactly what I was hoping to find !! This week I am going to replace all four roof corners on my 2013 Swan Outback and am also going to re-seal the roof as well. As the previous bloke said, it would have been great to see a video on how to replace the corners, but I do have a vague idea as I’ve seen or read how to do it somewhere a few years ago….but I can’t find it again 👹 The other issue you have solved is the type of sealant to use as there are so many variations out there it is very confusing. Wish me luck 🤞, Cheers Rob
All the best with it 😁 ... I research everything I do as much as I can which led me to doing these videos which in affect keeps them fairly simple. I'm really glad I am helping people out 👍
Yes and I will certainly do a cap replacement, once we can get out and about again I will try to source a portion of roof to demonstrate 👍
Rob, did you have any luck finding the videos on replacing the corners???
@@cameronjennings1802 no unfortunately I didn’t sorry.
Great video really well explained how to do it from start to finish especially to know what sealant to use it would be really good if you could do one On a cracked corner and how to replace it.
Once all the lockdowns are out of the way, I wouldn't mind getting a corner section of roof from a damaged van to do this on. It would make it a lot easier to demonstrate how a corner is removed and a new one is fitted on. I will look to do this... unless one of ours does develop a crack down the track!
Hi did you get around to removing a corner?
Just spent the last two day's doing bed fly conversions and two pole storage tubes on our newly acquired 2015 Jayco Flamingo now you given me more work. Ours does have a genuine rack on so could take a little longer but does need to be done as the racks need some strengthening braces to be made up. Cheers for the uploads.
Thanks Shreck. This job is a bit of a fiddly one but certainly worth doing. Yes roof racks make it a bit more complicated but everything is pretty much just sealed down so not too much of a drama - our friends have a brand new Eagle which leaks through one of the roof rack mounts lol. Good luck with it! Cheers, Vaughan
Great detail, thanks. I’m putting some solar panels on my Jayco roof and wanting to match the silicon around the mounting brackets so I’ll try the Bostik V4. I’ll have to experiment to make the flat top on the screws, assume you silicon the press down with a small bottle base like a pill container?
Great video mate! Hope you got a few hours sleep before work.
Awesome video. I am not a confident user of silicon and appreciate this excellent training video. But how do you replace broken end caps?
Hi just wondering what sealant you would recommend I use to seal around the internal areas to stop dust getting in around the wheel arches both internal and externally
Hi mate. Great video. How often do you recommend performing this task? I’ve recently just bought a 2011 eagle poptop.
What are your thoughts on using dicor lap seal self levelling? I see it is popular in the USA.
Hi, do you have a video on how to remove the roof vinyl skirt? I have a Jayco Freedom with siezed zippers and need to get them fixed.
Excellent video. I need to paint my roof also, what order would you recommend I seal / paint?
Would you also use the V4 for sealing rivets?
I can't get a hold of the v4 sealant is there any other sealant you recommend works with old sealant residue.
Another question please: when scrapping off the old silicone strip on the inner side of the roof section where it’s about 10mm ish wide, how did you go about getting any remaining silicon off ? Reason I ask, and as you know, this is very hard to remove all of it due to the rough surface of the roof. Did you use one of those nilon wheel drill bit things ?
Also you might be interested to know that replacing the corner sections is a huge pain ! You can access the bottom screws ( although most of mine were covered in the roofing silicone 🤬) but to get access to the top screws it looks like you have to raise the roof, unscrew the canvas attached in the corners, and go from there.
So glad I watched this video again as I got my wires crossed somehow and assumed that the isopropyl was the silicone lubricant….thankfully I haven’t got to that stage yet as I’m still removing the corners…but I think I dodged a bullit there. Off to get some silicone finishing lubricant to tomorrow. Thanks again for posting this video which is very helpful. Cheers Rob 👍
I just kept scraping and scraping. You can also use you fingers like an eraser to grip and pull out silicone residue from the texture. In showers I generally do this on aluminum shower screens to save scratching. I did contemplate using a nylon wheel on a drill but would be very cautious regarding stripping any finishes. I know of people who have tried caramel wheels also with little success. A heat gun to gently heat will also help.
Yes, the corners look fun and potentially panful hence I want to do a trial on a scrap roof first. Its good to see how they go together etc.
Hi..great video. What about the rubber seal under the pop top. Have you replaced that?
Hi Dave - no we haven't at this point however ours is still in good condition. That said I am however looking for a pop-top or Jayco camper project to renovate and will certainly be doing an episode on that. Prices are still a bit crazy to make a renovation stack up (especially if they crash halfway through) however its on my list for this year.
Hey There,
Great video and great Channel! Thanks so much for posting this it was a great help. Just finished resealing my Jayco swan last night using all your suggestions, went well. I did take a bit too long to get back to my starting point and it had started to skin, I just sort of scraped some of it off and lapped on. Some how I missed smoothing out an area after tooling off, only noticed now. Is there any issues with after 12+ hours drying, spraying that area with isopropyl to clean off any soapy water residue and applying another thin coat of silicon to touch up?
I just watched the vid from the start again and you do mention that the V4 can handle being reapplied over the top of itself, so all good! Think I'll give it time to cure fully then clean with isopropyl and the re apply. Love the detail in your vids! On to the bed end fly conversion next!
You could just tidy up with a blade. I'm personally not a fan of going back over however if its for aesthetic reasons to smooth out, it shouldn't be an issue.
I feel like redoing my full size 18ft caravan will be a nightmare. 😥
Hi there,
I’m just wondering what other sealant you would recommend instead of the Bostik V4? It is very hard to find where we are in Melbourne. Bunnings and mitre 10 don’t stock this particular sealant.
You typically have to order in from the caravan parts suppliers. Outback Equipment, RV Parts Express or Big Red Caravan Parts all stock and ship out. Technically most neutral cure silicones will do the job however Bostik V6 and V60 are proven products for caravans and the elements. www.outbackequipment.com.au/bostik-v4-silicone-sealant-non-acetic-370gm-tube-w?gclid=Cj0KCQiAi9mPBhCJARIsAHchl1z9nGfZfwjg_RMHe2igktXJ10SmpI4gSK1yQ3hul5RSoNRZayMZ8JgaAkCxEALw_wcB
Selleys I find extremely hard to work and finish off and doesn't have a great reputation.
Wurth Neutral Cure is also a very good product: suncoastcaravanservice.com.au/product/caravan-sealant-wurth-neutral-cure-silicone-roof-seams-2-tubes/
What is the finishing fluid you used?
Thanks for the vid 👍
I didn't list it as its our own finishing fluid I use for our business. However our head office now has available. Its really good stuff:
www.groutpro.com.au/shop/groutpro-silicone-finishing-fluid-neutral-cure/
About to do this project myself. I'm not particularly handy, so this guide is awesome.
What's the thought around using PLAS-T-COTE ROOF SEALER WHITE as the sealant?
Is that worth it? Or just the same as the V4?
It's a good project to get completed. My take on the Plas-T-Cote is that it's a product you would usually use to coat a roof or the like.
My opinion is this will simply add another potential failure point. If water was to get under its likely to fail and delaminate the coating. You are also adding in a maintenance item as it will eventually need to be stripped off the roof and re-applied.
If you have joints under they will expand and contract and potentially lead to failure of the coating at this point also. I'd prefer to leave the roof as it is and treat the joints.
The Bostik V4 or V60 is a very popular product used through the industry hence my choice to use it. I'm still wanting to do a corner cap replacement, that will be an interesting video as well as J Mould replacement on an older model.
Would you do around the skylight as well
If there are signs of the sealant breaking down I certainly would. It is a job in itself by the time you strip all the sealant out from around the hatch plus setup a way of getting across to it. I would probably setup planks spanning from side to side so you don't damage the roof.
Great video. How long did it take to scrap out the existing silicone? Also, how many tubes of silicone did you use?
Hi Jarrod. It probably took around 2 hours to remove all the silicone from our roof. I was fairly particular to remove as much material as possible. I used 1.5 tubes so best to buy 2 just in case.
@@WorkLivePlay Thank you
Hi. This could be a dumb question but I'm interested to know. We've ordered a new Journey van and I've seen the suggestion in a few places that you should silicone again to make sure it's all waterproof (roof, around hatches, etc). Is it possible to use this silicone over the existing silicone as it's new?
Hi Nicole. I personally would never silicone over other silicone or sealant. I would always strip out first. I know what you mean however as we have been looking at Journey pop-tops ourselves. Its a tricky one as they do seem to be having issues with leaks currently. At least it would be a warranty fix - and you can use Jayco authorised repairers for this also.
I have a flamingo and had a major leak in the roof, I’m going to tackle repairing it after watching your very informative video BUT my question is I live full time in my van can I do this repair while it’s set up or should I pack it down like you have in the video and how long does it take for it to be fully cured for no more leaks?
Hi Karen, I would pack down to do this job personally. Curing time will depend on the sealant used however I would generally suggest it should be dry at least 2 days prior and 2 days post the sealing being completed. You really want a window of at least a week of clear weather.
Thanks for your answer, atm the weather is my biggest problem and I have the same sealant you suggested, but you make it look like I could possibly tackle it so I am 😁
I'm depressed mine leaks and can't fix it I live full time of grid In it can't even tow it t town now
Its difficult, especially in this weather. When ours started leaking on the first day of 3 where we knew it would be torrential rain it was depressing - I couldn't imagine living and the feeling you get each time a change comes through. Best of luck with it however.
Just phoned Bostik today 17th August 2022, they told me Bostic V4 is NOT compatible with pp plastic.!!!!!!!!!!
is all Bostik V4 Non Acetic
Hi Ray, Yes all Bostik V4 is neutral cure / non acetic. Doesn't hurt to confirm on ordering just in case however 👍
Thanks a million for this video did this during lock down in Sydney now on the Tweed pissing down rain a not a drop in side
V4 rare as rocking horse shit
the worst seal I've ever seen.
Sealing must be between two things that you want to seal.
sealing on the outside only lasts a while.
Can after a while crack / unlock
and introduce water