Applying the bead of silicone is just as Important if want it even and uniform without it spreading everywhere . In my own home where I have unlimited time I sand down the silicone nozzle to the shape of the corner being sealed I then mask of the lines and apply silicone and smooth down with finger . Removing the tape leaves slight ridges so I then use the soap water method to smooth over a second time knowing almost all excess silicone was wiped off in first smooth over. Takes longer but the finish is unmatched and you know that it's bonded properly
Professional tiler for 25 years - retired now. Agree with this 95% but pushing the tipis definitely correct, for reasons given by others below. Also do not agree with the no fingers brigade. You can use your finger to shape the silicone, does a great job, but wet finger first or silicone will adhere to the skin and make a terrible mess. Also, note that mold growing on your silicone IS NOT caused by licking your finger. It is caused by the gap between the tiles being unclean. Always used toluole to clean all grease and oils off the joint area before applying the silicone. Well, that's my two bobs worth.
I’m a bathroom installer, mostly showers. We never use soapy water at all, for the reasons in the video. Plus those green tools are my favourite, just the right shape and rigidity. Great video.
Excellent demonstration. I’ve been a tile guy 20 years, started using soap water only in the last several, on account of Sal Di Blasi. I must adjust my technique, I’m certain to have some poor caulk out there. The challenge is with lumpy tiles, uneven stone, and cushion edged mosaic tiles. I can’t get a tool to work, finger finish is always required. Spray prevents spreading and smearing.
I mostly tackle bumpy tiles by using the silicone tool in both directions and maybe adjusting angle. Not perfect, but better than one pass. I always informed customers that silicone bead will follow bumpy tiles and ridges
When really bumpy or if there is a stark contrast in silicone colour to the surface colour, I use green painters tape to get it pretty close to a straight line before tooling.
Thank you! Finally someone who agrees. I’ve been told for years I was doing it wrong. As a plumber, I need the best seal that lasts and doesn’t leak. Not one that is easy and fast to install then peals off and leaks years later. I still make it look nice. It just takes a little longer.
@@chrismccluskey3506 As a professional caulker in the US of over 45 years and who often has to have tech reps from the major sealant manufacturers inspect and test our work in order to get their extended 20 year performance warranty, if soapy water is used it will fail the tests and the warranty is void. Also if our work fails it has the possibility ( rare) of causing hundreds of thousands of dollars in damage. A leak on the 50th floor of a high rise can have pretty disastrous results. The simple truth is many think that if sealant lasts 5 years that is good because that’s what most trades guarantees are.Properly installed quality silicone should last 30+ years. If someone shows up on one of my jobs with soapy water they are fired on the spot. A little more reinforcement for your way of thinking: Dow one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world says “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.” Page 75 of Dow Construction Sealants Technical Manual of the Americas.
Bought a profiling kit a few years back and use it all the time, have never used detergent and get superb results everytime Perfect video, well done my friend
Great demo - I've never used washing up liquid for this - didn't even know it was a thing. Best discovery I made was using the profiling tool rather than just the finger to stop it going concave. Got silicon round the bath that's been there for years and apart from a clean with some anti mould stuff every year or two, it's still good as new and no gaps. Love these practical little videos Aiden, thanks for taking the time to do them.
I've always pushed the nozzle along the gap instead of pulling, which sort of injects the silicone into the gap and doesn't leave a rounded bead. So much less waste when you pass your finger along. I'm only a DIYer and probably don't know what I'm talking about, but it works for me
100% correct. A professional cuts the nozzle back to a larger diameter and then pushes it along the joint. No need for fingers, liquids or tools if done this way.
Never use your finger. Oils allow bacteria to form = mould; use tools whenever possible. However, if DIYing it you probably don't want to go to the expense of buying tools.
This is very interesting. It appears I have been doing it wrong for 50 years. I'm always glad to learn something new, especially if it saves time and increases quality. Thank you.
All of the UK needs to see your video. Every hotel where I’ve stayed in the UK even 5 stars in the center of London, it looks like they apply the caulk by shooting it from a meter away, smearing it liberally over the 5 layers that were already there. Not to mention painting over outlets, light switches, door hardware, splattering it over the carpet….
That's not all of the UK. That's just diyers and plumbers 😂 got sink fitted last year asked plumber to leave silicone off and I'd do it behind the taps. His face looked shocked when packing up his tools as I walked in and started rubbing off the mess of a silicone job he done lol he had cheek yo ask me if something was wrong , I replied yes it looks like you've used your elbow to smooth this over lol
I'm an electrician . People always upset when you have to change a switch or socket and when take the old one off take all the paint around the edges off with it too lol not my fault the paint iver the edges of it . Also see a lot of light switches with an X scored over it . That's the stanley knife cutting out the wallpaper on top of it 😅
@@christophergallagher3845 well, I don't think diy'ers are doing 5 star hotel rooms... and plumbers don't paint walls and doors... Maybe it's something to do with the UK hotel business... but I've seen the same stuff in homes and apartments... I've done construction, so I know what "good enough for government work" means... but I've never seen as much terrible work as I have in the UK... honest, not trying to be a jerk, just honestly....
@@PRH123 mate I don't like London I'm from Scotland the fact you're roasting London does not upset me it makes me smile lol I was mostly talking about the silicone work when I mentioned plumbers . Half the "tradesmen" in London are DiYers lol its why people from around the UK go work there for higher wages through the week then go home at weekends
To be honest I'd never even heard of spraying the tiles with water and washing up liquid as a thing. It seems completely counter intuitive to me. You want a clean, dry, dust free surface for the silicone to stick to so why you'd then want to put water anywhere near it until it's dry is beyond me. Great video though, as always.
All it takes is skill. He is not applying it correctly. A better gun and cut the nozzle nicer. And proper use of the gun results in a perfect bead every time. Then a light spray or soapy water is enough to finish any imperfections. Perfect beads. Will always stick if the surface was cleaned.
Met a guy 30yrs ago and all he ever did all day was silicone kitchens after they were fitted and he showed me to just dip/dab a finger in part water part washing up liquid in a wee glass then finish off your silicone bead with that finger. Also it helps to cut the silicone nozzle correctly and apply evenly. Practice makes perfect
Yes, but only if you're practicing the right thing. Lots of folks practice doing the wrong thing and they're really good at doing the wrong thing. I guess that's kind of what you said.
Why haven't you cut the nozzle at, say, 45 degrees? You wouldn't need to tool it off then... And mold is in the air; it is not caused by what you're saying.
I am a window fitter & was shown on site by the mastic guys they use the wood tool and let it soak in the soapy water. I was also told you should ALWAYS tool the joint this adds to the adhesion so tool it at 45 degrees which also pushes it into the joint further , I have also found cheap silicone is rubbish & a nightmare it’s just too runny
Nicely demonstrated with the tile set up, kudos. A good seal is the most important thing of course so I won't be using the soap method in the future. But.. the reason it became a thing is because when you're doing longer lengths than just one tile, say 2m, when scraping you pick up enough silicone that it overflows the tool and it spreads everywhere and is a pia to clean up. That's why people started using this method. You've proven that it's a bad solution to the problem but I want to see a better one, just showing one tile being scraped is not enough, the first tile no soap is always fine by the time you get the third you start to have problems. You're a professional, a new video on techniques for a better solution to the mess would be appreciated. Thanks
People using sprays is just laziness. Then I have to redue what I payed them to do properly, oh and replace the wet damp floor boards! . Great video thanks.
My co workers taught me to spray the bead with detergent. That never made any sense to me. If you do it so it won't stick to your finger, how do you expect it to stick to the surface? I'm glad to find out I'm not crazy. Good video!
FINALLY someone with a video showing this. Especially with the tooling kits, they do a very good job removing the excess cleanly. Soapy water jsut makes the overall cleaning up easier as the excess isnt sticky but the joint will be compromised at the edges. Good job posting this!
Brilliant! The first time i did it, i should have covered myself in washing up liquid! My new grout, done by the "builders " last summer , is already mouldy. I'll make that tool. Thanks.
I'm a commercial caulker and all I use is slickers ( caulking spatula) made by Albion. They are made out of stainless steel and come in different sizes, I even have ones that are off set. The better bead you have the easier it is to tool. We also use backer rod that comes in different sizes that are used to put in the joint. Just remember you never want to have a 3 way bond.
Oh, I understand now why I don't have those mold problem in my shower after 10 years (the silicon is still perfectly white) because I did it myself and used the same kind of tools as you and didn't use soap. A good ventilation in my shower helped too I guess.
Ive know this for years as a pro tiler stretching on now for 36 years never have moisture when applying silicon this can happen on very humid days in hot climates believe me, thanks for this demo for others to realize top man👍 silicone over dry grout lines, after silicone is dry always use a grout sealer to stop mould build up between the silicone and grout this is to stop moisture lingering that mould loves to show up and live in. Hope this extra information helps everyone.
Good video Aidan. I use the Screwfix silicone tooling - which has upped my game. Isn’t it funny though no matter how careful you are there is always a significant amount of waste scraped off the tool into the bin.
Very nice instruction, as I was using the dish soap method myself as well. Perhaps laying a nice line of silicone tells you it's a nice result when first looking at it, but the closeup tells a different story. Thanks for this demo! How do you feel about using the method with the masking tape? Do you think that will also result in the same problem with some gaps and caulk lifting off? As I'm not on expert in caulking, I think this method helps me to get nicer and straighter results. Or it's just a lack of practice in laying a good bead of caulk?
There are quite a few people out there that suggest that using tape is also a bad idea. I wouldn't say it necessarily would give you the same problems but personally I don't like that it gives you a lip on the side so I would never do it where it would be seen regularly like in a bathroom. Thinking about it there may also be the chance the side would lift slightly when you take the tape off. I can totally understand why tape is used, I use it round the frames externally of windows and doors. But that's only because it's difficult for me to judge how much silicone I need to use to fill the larger gap over the backer rod. In bathrooms I'm much better at judging how much to lay down for the bead. So I suppose it just comes down to practice and experience
You won’t able to get all the silicone clean without a spray. It may look clean but try scrape it out with your finger. Any left over silicone will be moulding later
Oh gawd…. I fell for the soap trick and have siliconed shower and bathroom. Eyes opened! Going to dig it all out and redo it…. Sometime! Cheers for the vid!
I'm a decorator and I'm forever having to re-do the silicone around bathrooms which (I'm assuming) have been done using this method by 'professionals'. I've seen kitchen fitters walk away _as_ the bead they've applied to the worktop is sinking down the back of the gap (that was Howdens). I have a whole bathroom to do next week _because_ all the silicone has failed I have standing customers and none of _my_ silicone has ever caused me, or them, any grief.
Thank you for the tip mate, I'm getting ready to redo the Caulking in my Kitchen and Bathroom and this video has shown me what to do and what not to do, but the video has also revealed to me why the Caulking that's there already has been so slippery and broken down and useless
As a professional kitchen and bathroom fitter, all good info but I would add, first don’t cut the nozzle at an angle, (I notice yours was straight but you didn’t mention it) I don’t know where that craze came from but the point digs in and messes up the bead plus you can only silicon at one angle so you get stuck when you come to a corner, so cut your nozzle off square, that way you can control the bead better. Second - where ever possible hold the gun at just off 90 degrees to the the corner and 45 degree’s to the surface and wall and drag the whole gun towards you as you gently squeeze, this pushes the sealant right into the corner giving a better seal plus naturally scrapes the bead flat. You want the bead to be very slightly swelling behind the nozzle as it moves along but not too much, with practice you’ll get a near perfect bead that needs minimum tooling. Nice video.
I was a kitchen and bathroom fitter all of my working life. I've never used soap. I used to tape everything then cut the finger off a latex glove to smooth with my finger. It takes a little longer but it's a brilliant Finnish. I'm really liking these silicone tools. I ordered a set the other day from Amazon .Great video ✌️
@@edeaglehouse2221 I only smooth with 1 finger. 1 glove gives me 5 clean fingers. I'm not in the habit of getting it all over my hands and the latex leaves a very nice finish.
Using a finger or lolly stick gives you a concave finish, this leaves extremely thin weak areas , the bead should be finished flat to ensure the strongest bond.
Man.... It opend my eyes. While im still fiding myself being apprentice, as Im working for old (handy)man it grinded my gears that he uses method millions did wrong. I tried to politely tell him but he refute my findings... Its gotten so far that I believe that many people rather to quick and dirty as they get call back "earlier then sooner" as they then can ask for money for their work... He even sometimes calls in a supposedly professional grout/kitter to do the jobs even they do it wrong when I observ them ... Id like to do it right first time just like how id like to have it on my own house...
Thank you! I've got a caulk job that I need to undertake tomorrow, which I'm not going to lie is well outside of my regular wheelhouse, and I've been watching other so-called pro tutorial video clips make all of the recommendations mentioned here what not to do. But I said to myself, "OK, I think I got this, buuuuutttttt.... Let's just have a look here a this one last video and confirm the process!" And thank God that I found this video in time! I would surely have sprayed after caulking and left a mess on a time-sensitive job that I won't be able to repair later! Thank you for the leg up and major time saver!
A great tool to use is a piece of electrical conduit pipe sawn off at an angle. It collects the excess silicone in the tube and works like a charm. Spray the tube if you want, particularly the inside of the pipe.
The previous video said to do the opposite of your advice. It just shows you can't believe everything. Thanks for giving the reasoning behind your advice.
I personally finished the silicone without soap fist, for that good adhesion indeed, and then used the soap water for a finishing touch. I hope that’s fine. Thanks for pointing out these potential issues
Sorry if this is redundant, but I made the mistake of using an expired tube of silicone sealant. I had no idea that silicone has a finite shelf life. It was printed on the tube but I didn’t bother to look. Not only would it not skin, but it would not set up at all. I have to scrape it all out and get a new tube that had not expired.
Partly agree... There are infinite ways of doing this. *Using only fiber or rubber leaves thin marks on sides of gap, after some time they become visible... Using painters tape for limiting side marks leaves you with thicker sides of bead + you have to plan order of tape removal etc *Using soap liquid is nice if you can apply the silicone very precise and not leave uncovered spots Any of methods is self challenging and has + and - 😅
- apply silicon correctly & slightly thicker then your tool tip is - spray (there’s no issue with it if silicone is applied properly) - spray your toll & carry on… dress it nicely No, it is not easy for the beginners… as a lot of different things is no so easy when you’re just starting. 25+ years doing that way, no issues at all… but apply it properly.
@@PaulsCarpentry-dq8tj we do it all of the time. To surfaces like sandblasted granite ,EIFS, stucco, precast concrete, split faced block etc. But we use proper tools ( basically metal spatulas) kind of like the one he made out of wood
@@williamfreeman6935 they are called different things in different regions. I’ve heard them called many things. In the 60’s and 70’s a lot of people called them “ Sheffields” because at the time,the best ones came from Sheffield. I have also heard them called “strikers” , “ slickers”, “ pointers” ,”spatulas” ,” irons” and just plain old “ caulking tools” None of these are right or wrong. Just depends on when,where, and who you learned from. Albion calls theirs spatulas.
What do you think of masking taping the area 3/8" from the corners, then using a piece of 1/2" plastic pipe to smooth out the bead.? Removing the tape right away
I've never tried the pipe method, I might give it a try as a couple of people mentioned it. I avoid using tape in the bathroom/kitchen as it leaves a lip that I can't stand the look of 😆 I used tape when I sealed my windows though
Make sure to have a clean finger and go steady with the amount of pressure. I've seen lads wetting it with their tongue beforehand. I agree with you and your wife, a finger will usually give a good satisfactory result.
From across the "Pond", Orlando, Florida U.S.A. I wish to say "Thank you Sir!!" Yours, after numerous others, is without doubt the best explanation, and demonstration I've seen. Best wishes! And thank again! P. S., Liked and subscribed.
I use painters tape to caulk all joints that will be seen, especially big gaps. It looks really good. This is really good for DIYers that dont know what they're doing.
I’ve been using a weak washing up liquid spray for 20 years in over 300 bathrooms, never had a single problem. In fairness your bead laying is shocking, your test pieces are are super smooth and flat ceramic, try doing your test on a rough riven tile or a split face tile. I’ll continue doing it the way I know works for me.
That's fine, you do you 👍 I've done riven slate before without needing soapy water 🤷 there's been a few people saying the beads were shocking, the average DIY'er would lay down similar though and that's why I've shown what happens. If you laid down the perfect bead, logically you wouldn't need to use soapy water in the first place 🤷
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I try lay as close to perfect bead at first and then smooth over lightly . If there's excess silicone left ill then spray iver it knowing my seals made and can take off the excess without the wall material getting covered, not an issue on tiles but on textured wetwall and stuff it definitely matters . Combine both methods if you know how both work/fail . Like you say though common diyers need it made si please for them as they're following instruction rather than having an understanding as to why they're doing it
I' learned this about 20 years ago and it works great, the only difference is I put the dish soapon my finger and then spread it out ask needed, Good video, thank you for more info for us
Hey, great video.. Can you advise on using silicone strips around the bath and in the corner, vertically where the shower is? I've had a cowboy cause untold damage when installing my bath and shower and tiles.. Thankyou ❤️
I used to just wet my finger with soapy water for the final finish. That seemed to work fine. Won't even be doing that from now on. Thanks for showing us.
Water on your finger prevents the caulk from sticking to your finger. What you don't want is water on what you're caulking. You want it to stick there.
That's what I've always done or spray it on the tool not the surface I'm going to caulk I would think it would be obvious you want it to be a clean dry surface
@@richardstetson8221 I did my 2 master bath sinks today. Had to gently smooth with a soapy finger (mild / dab in a full spray bottle. Not sprayed directly) a few spots that didn't tool cleanly, but I got a spot or 2 wet ahead of me caulking. Didn't stick at first tried to brute force it I guess wanting to get the job done. Carefully dabbed with paper towel it stuck then I tooled it. Am I going to have adhesion issues where a little mild soap water / residue could have been between counter and porcelain? It's maybe two 1" spots but enough to irritate me. Caulk was injected well and completely filled, tooled not concave. Will the silicone caulking absorb some part of that or nullify it & adhere? Water dries and silicone adheres? Since it's not exposed to air to dry while it's wet? Thoughts? 🤣I'm experienced but no pro.
Great tip another thing I've done is with my finger dip it and soapy water and slide it across. Because you're not wetting the edge where the gap can be you get a good seal as it pushes it in against the surface and doesn't stick to your finger
This is a job I hate but I don't trust others to do for me. I tend to clean the surfaces with meths first to ensure the are clean and then use a tool. In our current build we are using Nuance Bushboard panels. These come with a colour adhesive which seems to be better than just normal silicone. The great thing with this is you can use white spirit to remove any excess AFTER you apply it. I did two bathrooms in our holiday rentals a couple of years ago with this and they still look great.
Yep I use meths and then a hair dryer to make sure it's really dry when I have to re-do the shower tray. I used masking tape to get nice straight lines which I would do again but not washing up liquid on my finger next time! It's profiling tool for me from now on.
100% correct.....in a shower you have have big problems with water surface needs to be clean, cut nozzle properly and squeeze caulk into the gap, not just on the surface....fill the whole void, you can use paint thinner on a rag if your not good at making a clean bead after you have tooled it on another tip is get a caulking gun.....good gun, cut the tip correctly and proper application makes the job alot easier.....been caulking since the 80s regularly
Great stuff at last someone has made video why not to use that 💩 when doing silicone. The amount of times i’ve had to redo silicone because someone has done this just doesn’t bear thinking about. Nice one mate hats off to you 👍🏻👍🏻
Top video! If you read the manufacturer instructions or the building codes themselves, NO WHERE do they mention spraying the sealant or using anything other than a tool to force it into the joint at the right size. In the old days they would lick their finger, but don't do that either, please, lol!
First thing is learn is how to caulk ! Push forward into the join , don't drag the gun backwards. You want to push the product into the gap , not make it sit at the surface. Don't use your finger, our skin has oil on it naturally or you might have contamination on your hands. Use an icy pole stick Or caulking tool. If you caulk into the join with the nozzle cut correctly , you can use windex or dishsoap and water. Don't saturate it, It is purely to smooth the surface. Water is usually used when applying polyurethane fillers such as Sikalfex pro or sikaflex fc. They are water activated. Dont ised bleach based cleaners either, silicones for bathroom and wet area have acetic acid as a mould inhibitor. Bleach or chlorine based products will neutralize the anti moulding agent.
That’s right. I’ve always wondered if they achieve a water tight seal when squirting all that soap and water where you need the silicone to stick too. You explained it well.😊
I always let the silicone begin to go off before I touch it. Dip my finger or smoothing tool in water with a minute drop of washing up liquid in it which helps prevent the silicone from sticking to my finger. Works a treat. I've never sprayed anything as it is far too much liquid!
Another issue is that the manufacture will state "Do Not Tool" on the back of a lot of these tubes. So, how do you get around this and make nice, clean beads? You cut the tip properly and push the tip instead of pulling it. When you use your finger you leave the oils and other gunk and impurities on and in the sealant and that leads to mold and mildew building up even faster. When you use a tool, you do the same, especially if you use wood, you will leave some sort of residue and a lot of tiny little grooves that the debris can adhere to.
Great video, just subscribed. Can you show how to remove old and mouldy caulk shower, kitchen etc) and how to clean and dry the surface afterwards to ensure the new caulk adheres? I also have exterior metal window sills which are in two sections. The bottom section slides in and is then caulked all the way along. The old caulk has deteriorated, cracked and is rock hard. Can you advise how to remove the caulk without scratching the white "enamel" on the metal?
Thanks Kathy, I have a couple of tips about removing old sealant in my shower screen video which I will put at the end of this. There is a link in that description for all of the useful silicone tools. You'd be better off using the plastic tools if you are worried about scratching anything. You can also use the remover gel which should soften up any sealant. Clean with methylated spirits. th-cam.com/video/sGN766p0qJw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=45sqKM5oEsKveGFq
Excellent. I stopped using spray years ago after I thought about what was really happening. Tip, pop-stick (is that what you call them? Ice cream stick) works if you’re not prepared. I love silicon profiles. Funny thing, they used to be ninety degrees with a radius. I always thought they should be about 85 degrees to allow for “swiping down“ angle. Lo and behold a few years later that’s what became available. Avoid the 90 degrees ones.
Great video on this subject.First person I have seen do it properly I have been doing it this way for years I never understood why people used the diluted washing up liquid and water.First time seeing your videos 👍just subscribed
@The-Aiden-Project : Regarding that little wooden tool that you made yourself for smoothing out the caulk lines... What degree would you say the tip of that tool is cut to? Is it cut to 45° angles on both sides, so that the tip comes to a sharp "V", or is it less than 45°, giving the tip a bit of thickness at the very tip of it? Just curious, because I'm working on making my own real quick, so I can get a good caulk line on my bathtub that I'm having to redo the caulk on. TIA!!
I don't know why people think that silicon is glue, but it is not its only good as a gap filler, but a very good video, perhaps you should do a video on how sticky silicon is or not.
Here's how i do it: 1. Apply the gaulk to the corner seam 2. Remove the extra with an ice cream stick or silicone profiler tool 3. Spray the silicone or your fingertip 4. Run the silicone with your finger Part 2 is very essential here before using any soap as that will make sure that there are no gaps that will mess up with the adhesion.
Excellent vid. I'm about to redo some bathroom sealant for the first time ever, so this advice will come in handy. I wasn't going to use anything as you suggested but someone told me I should recently. Whoever fitted our shower didn't seal it until they fitted the glass doors and frame, so water was getting behind it and leaking through to the floor and then the next room. I've dismantled the shower cubicle and will be sealing the tray to the tiled wall before I put the frame back in place. I've also read that you should only seal the outside of the shower and not inside. Not sure if that only applies to the bottom and not the frame where it attached to the walls I was thinking I'd do inside and out for the frame to the wall, or I fear water would get behind and go mouldy.
Hey, good luck with it 👍 good idea to seal it properly before the cubicle frame. I do a decent bead around most of it, maybe 8mm and then I do a tighter bit where the frame will sit, otherwise your frame will sit either off the wall slightly or off the frame. I only ever seal on the outside of a shower cubicle, it allows water to drain into the tray rather than getting trapped inside. My other video may help th-cam.com/video/sGN766p0qJw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mprT13FLQH5M9M9Z
Yes but the slightly more flexible ones might be better, I've got a few different ones in my Amazon page (link in the description). The trick is to not put on too much in the first place. With textured tiles sometimes it's better to use the clear silicone
The main reason for peling silicone is because everyone just buys the cheaper acetoxy silicone. Spend a little more and get low modulus neutral cure silicone. Its thicker, easier to tool and will last much longer. Cheaper 'general purpose' silicones are not fit for purpose and a total waste of time. If it smells like vinegar, you got the wrong stuff.
Total amateur here - but - have you considered also after removing old silicone to swap any mould with ascetic acid/vit C crystals (v cheap) as this kills mold so will minimize it regrowing in future? Obvs leave to dry completely first.
Good video bro, don't listen to negative comments. Originally from Scotland I've lived in Canada since I was 17. You are spot on with explanation of how not to finish a caulk joint. Carpenter all my working life, never used "fairy liquid"😅
So does that mean if I spray my toilet with fairy liquid before I take a dump, I won’t end up with skids?
I wonder how many people will be tempted to try this...I'm gonna pin it 😆
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT Hahaha, joking aside that first bead is actually fairly typical of the bodge-it-and-scarper brigade these days.
@@Beng12952 but it might not be a joke, it might actually be a genius idea. Bottle it up and sell it 🤣 Nomoreskids
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT 😂😂😂 Perhaps I should pitch the idea to Screwfix, when it launches I think it’s only fair they do a BOGOFF deal
@@Beng12952 I might actually do a little vertical video for this, I'm gonna mock up a nonsense type label 🤣
Consider my eyes opened! I'd fallen for the washing up liquid method up to now. Perfect demo of how it really works.
The world needs more men like this.
Да это и так любому нормально думающему человеку должно быть понятно
Applying the bead of silicone is just as Important if want it even and uniform without it spreading everywhere . In my own home where I have unlimited time I sand down the silicone nozzle to the shape of the corner being sealed I then mask of the lines and apply silicone and smooth down with finger . Removing the tape leaves slight ridges so I then use the soap water method to smooth over a second time knowing almost all excess silicone was wiped off in first smooth over. Takes longer but the finish is unmatched and you know that it's bonded properly
Admittedly, my eyes are also opened. This is a great informative video
Professional tiler for 25 years - retired now. Agree with this 95% but pushing the tipis definitely correct, for reasons given by others below. Also do not agree with the no fingers brigade. You can use your finger to shape the silicone, does a great job, but wet finger first or silicone will adhere to the skin and make a terrible mess. Also, note that mold growing on your silicone IS NOT caused by licking your finger. It is caused by the gap between the tiles being unclean. Always used toluole to clean all grease and oils off the joint area before applying the silicone. Well, that's my two bobs worth.
I agree
As another pro oldie the wet finger method with saliva is still the best 👍
Mould occurs when you use non sanitary grade silicone. Clear will always turn yellow over time.
If your gay, homophobic silicone works great with the finger method. But then you really gotta make sure you don't drop the soap.
You are only interested in a quick shortcut. Water and soap don't mix with silicone. This is how mould forms...trapped water.
I’m a bathroom installer, mostly showers. We never use soapy water at all, for the reasons in the video.
Plus those green tools are my favourite, just the right shape and rigidity.
Great video.
Yeah professional caulkers will never use them because the don’t properly tool the joint. But for amateur caulkers they might bf the best alternative.
Excellent demonstration. I’ve been a tile guy 20 years, started using soap water only in the last several, on account of Sal Di Blasi. I must adjust my technique, I’m certain to have some poor caulk out there.
The challenge is with lumpy tiles, uneven stone, and cushion edged mosaic tiles. I can’t get a tool to work, finger finish is always required. Spray prevents spreading and smearing.
Exactly he didn't have a grout line to deal with or bumpy tiles
I mostly tackle bumpy tiles by using the silicone tool in both directions and maybe adjusting angle. Not perfect, but better than one pass.
I always informed customers that silicone bead will follow bumpy tiles and ridges
When really bumpy or if there is a stark contrast in silicone colour to the surface colour, I use green painters tape to get it pretty close to a straight line before tooling.
As long as you dont drench it like he does. One light spray is enough and gentle finger.
Thank you! Finally someone who agrees. I’ve been told for years I was doing it wrong. As a plumber, I need the best seal that lasts and doesn’t leak. Not one that is easy and fast to install then peals off and leaks years later. I still make it look nice. It just takes a little longer.
🙌 it's just not logical to use it hey
@@chrismccluskey3506 As a professional caulker in the US of over 45 years and who often has to have tech reps from the major sealant manufacturers inspect and test our work in order to get their extended 20 year performance warranty, if soapy water is used it will fail the tests and the warranty is void. Also if our work fails it has the possibility ( rare) of causing hundreds of thousands of dollars in damage. A leak on the 50th floor of a high rise can have pretty disastrous results. The simple truth is many think that if sealant lasts 5 years that is good because that’s what most trades guarantees are.Properly installed quality silicone should last 30+ years. If someone shows up on one of my jobs with soapy water they are fired on the spot. A little more reinforcement for your way of thinking: Dow one of the largest silicone manufacturers in the world says “NOTE: Do not use liquid tooling aids such as water,soap or alcohols. These materials will interfere with cure, adhesion and create aesthetic issues.”
Page 75 of Dow Construction Sealants Technical Manual of the Americas.
Bought a profiling kit a few years back and use it all the time, have never used detergent and get superb results everytime
Perfect video, well done my friend
That's the way it's done 🙌
Great demo - I've never used washing up liquid for this - didn't even know it was a thing. Best discovery I made was using the profiling tool rather than just the finger to stop it going concave. Got silicon round the bath that's been there for years and apart from a clean with some anti mould stuff every year or two, it's still good as new and no gaps. Love these practical little videos Aiden, thanks for taking the time to do them.
Well if you never knew it was a thing you've done well 😁
I've always pushed the nozzle along the gap instead of pulling, which sort of injects the silicone into the gap and doesn't leave a rounded bead. So much less waste when you pass your finger along. I'm only a DIYer and probably don't know what I'm talking about, but it works for me
na 💯 bro you nailed it
100% correct. A professional cuts the nozzle back to a larger diameter and then pushes it along the joint. No need for fingers, liquids or tools if done this way.
Never use your finger. Oils allow bacteria to form = mould; use tools whenever possible. However, if DIYing it you probably don't want to go to the expense of buying tools.
@@armoris66 good point, but I actually always wrap my finger in a wet wipe (plus, my dirty little digits have more than oil on them!!)
After 35 years doing kitchens and bathroom renovations that's the best method in my opinion. Cut the nozzle flat, not on an angle and push.
This explains why i have never had silicone fail... but have had stuff others have put on just peel off in a long strip....
This is very interesting. It appears I have been doing it wrong for 50 years. I'm always glad to learn something new, especially if it saves time and increases quality. Thank you.
All of the UK needs to see your video. Every hotel where I’ve stayed in the UK even 5 stars in the center of London, it looks like they apply the caulk by shooting it from a meter away, smearing it liberally over the 5 layers that were already there.
Not to mention painting over outlets, light switches, door hardware, splattering it over the carpet….
That's not all of the UK. That's just diyers and plumbers 😂 got sink fitted last year asked plumber to leave silicone off and I'd do it behind the taps. His face looked shocked when packing up his tools as I walked in and started rubbing off the mess of a silicone job he done lol he had cheek yo ask me if something was wrong , I replied yes it looks like you've used your elbow to smooth this over lol
I'm an electrician . People always upset when you have to change a switch or socket and when take the old one off take all the paint around the edges off with it too lol not my fault the paint iver the edges of it . Also see a lot of light switches with an X scored over it . That's the stanley knife cutting out the wallpaper on top of it 😅
@@christophergallagher3845 well, I don't think diy'ers are doing 5 star hotel rooms... and plumbers don't paint walls and doors... Maybe it's something to do with the UK hotel business... but I've seen the same stuff in homes and apartments...
I've done construction, so I know what "good enough for government work" means... but I've never seen as much terrible work as I have in the UK... honest, not trying to be a jerk, just honestly....
@@PRH123 mate I don't like London I'm from Scotland the fact you're roasting London does not upset me it makes me smile lol I was mostly talking about the silicone work when I mentioned plumbers . Half the "tradesmen" in London are DiYers lol its why people from around the UK go work there for higher wages through the week then go home at weekends
@@PRH123 what 5 star hotel in London where you in that had bad silicone 5 layers deep ? Curious , not that I'd pay for 5 stars there anyway lol
Been doing it for years without spraying anything, never had a call back. 👍
To be honest I'd never even heard of spraying the tiles with water and washing up liquid as a thing. It seems completely counter intuitive to me. You want a clean, dry, dust free surface for the silicone to stick to so why you'd then want to put water anywhere near it until it's dry is beyond me. Great video though, as always.
It is pure craziness 😆 I'm surprised a couple of people are standing by the technique in the comments 🤷
Whybadd the risk of water is what I say. I was taught to dip my finger.
All it takes is skill. He is not applying it correctly. A better gun and cut the nozzle nicer. And proper use of the gun results in a perfect bead every time. Then a light spray or soapy water is enough to finish any imperfections. Perfect beads. Will always stick if the surface was cleaned.
Met a guy 30yrs ago and all he ever did all day was silicone kitchens after they were fitted and he showed me to just dip/dab a finger in part water part washing up liquid in a wee glass then finish off your silicone bead with that finger. Also it helps to cut the silicone nozzle correctly and apply evenly. Practice makes perfect
yeah i know that trick too... also my dad and grandpa used to do with finger and saliva
Yes, but only if you're practicing the right thing. Lots of folks practice doing the wrong thing and they're really good at doing the wrong thing. I guess that's kind of what you said.
Yep…been doing it like that since 1988!🤣
Why haven't you cut the nozzle at, say, 45 degrees? You wouldn't need to tool it off then... And mold is in the air; it is not caused by what you're saying.
Absolutely wrong. Total lack of knowledge and skill
NEVER use any liquid. Period
I am a window fitter & was shown on site by the mastic guys they use the wood tool and let it soak in the soapy water. I was also told you should ALWAYS tool the joint this adds to the adhesion so tool it at 45 degrees which also pushes it into the joint further , I have also found cheap silicone is rubbish & a nightmare it’s just too runny
Use Soudal and wooden spatulas like the doctor uses.
I'm always surprised how many videos show people spraying washing up liquid all over the place like you showed at the start.
It's misinformation I tell ya 🤣
Very similar to food & drinks commercials. None of what you see in those ads is safe for eating or drinking
Looks good finish. One year later not so good !
Nicely demonstrated with the tile set up, kudos. A good seal is the most important thing of course so I won't be using the soap method in the future. But.. the reason it became a thing is because when you're doing longer lengths than just one tile, say 2m, when scraping you pick up enough silicone that it overflows the tool and it spreads everywhere and is a pia to clean up. That's why people started using this method. You've proven that it's a bad solution to the problem but I want to see a better one, just showing one tile being scraped is not enough, the first tile no soap is always fine by the time you get the third you start to have problems.
You're a professional, a new video on techniques for a better solution to the mess would be appreciated. Thanks
th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
People using sprays is just laziness. Then I have to redue what I payed them to do properly, oh and replace the wet damp floor boards! . Great video thanks.
Spraying the tools is a golden nugget of information 👍
My co workers taught me to spray the bead with detergent. That never made any sense to me. If you do it so it won't stick to your finger, how do you expect it to stick to the surface?
I'm glad to find out I'm not crazy. Good video!
You are crazy.......th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
FINALLY someone with a video showing this. Especially with the tooling kits, they do a very good job removing the excess cleanly. Soapy water jsut makes the overall cleaning up easier as the excess isnt sticky but the joint will be compromised at the edges. Good job posting this!
th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
Brilliant! The first time i did it, i should have covered myself in washing up liquid! My new grout, done by the "builders " last summer , is already mouldy. I'll make that tool. Thanks.
Excellent video, I had a silicon failure in my shower in less than a year doing it with soapy water.
😬
I'm a commercial caulker and all I use is slickers ( caulking spatula) made by Albion. They are made out of stainless steel and come in different sizes, I even have ones that are off set. The better bead you have the easier it is to tool. We also use backer rod that comes in different sizes that are used to put in the joint. Just remember you never want to have a 3 way bond.
Oh, I understand now why I don't have those mold problem in my shower after 10 years (the silicon is still perfectly white) because I did it myself and used the same kind of tools as you and didn't use soap. A good ventilation in my shower helped too I guess.
Cleaning the corner first with denatured alcohol always helps the bond. Gets rid of any possible oils and dirt.
I always thought this was a bad idea. Thanks for confirming.
Ive know this for years as a pro tiler stretching on now for 36 years never have moisture when applying silicon this can happen on very humid days in hot climates believe me, thanks for this demo for others to realize top man👍 silicone over dry grout lines, after silicone is dry always use a grout sealer to stop mould build up between the silicone and grout this is to stop moisture lingering that mould loves to show up and live in. Hope this extra information helps everyone.
Good video Aidan. I use the Screwfix silicone tooling - which has upped my game. Isn’t it funny though no matter how careful you are there is always a significant amount of waste scraped off the tool into the bin.
Haha I think if we did it more often then you can judge how much to lay down without having too much wastage
You're absolutely right mate. I used the dish soap method and after a month or so the silicone detached itself from the sink.
It would have not adhered for the start if you had done it wrong.
As a 20 year decorator, i never use washing up liquid when applying mastic or caulk, a bit of spit on my finger is perfect.
Your finger is a source for bacteria and most likely help mould growth on the silicone especially if it's in a bathroom
I bet the customer loves that in the kitchen 😂🤦🏼♂️
@@johonass You don't let them see you do it 😉
Very nice instruction, as I was using the dish soap method myself as well. Perhaps laying a nice line of silicone tells you it's a nice result when first looking at it, but the closeup tells a different story. Thanks for this demo!
How do you feel about using the method with the masking tape? Do you think that will also result in the same problem with some gaps and caulk lifting off?
As I'm not on expert in caulking, I think this method helps me to get nicer and straighter results. Or it's just a lack of practice in laying a good bead of caulk?
There are quite a few people out there that suggest that using tape is also a bad idea. I wouldn't say it necessarily would give you the same problems but personally I don't like that it gives you a lip on the side so I would never do it where it would be seen regularly like in a bathroom. Thinking about it there may also be the chance the side would lift slightly when you take the tape off. I can totally understand why tape is used, I use it round the frames externally of windows and doors. But that's only because it's difficult for me to judge how much silicone I need to use to fill the larger gap over the backer rod. In bathrooms I'm much better at judging how much to lay down for the bead. So I suppose it just comes down to practice and experience
i had no idea people were spraying their caulk! who's stupid idea was this? i have been caulking for over 50yrs and have never heard of this.
Probably every second TH-camr spray their caulk.😂
You won’t able to get all the silicone clean without a spray. It may look clean but try scrape it out with your finger. Any left over silicone will be moulding later
Its not a stupid idea. Ive been caulking professionally for years and there is no way to get a perfect bead with out light spray.
Oh gawd…. I fell for the soap trick and have siliconed shower and bathroom. Eyes opened! Going to dig it all out and redo it…. Sometime! Cheers for the vid!
I'm a decorator and I'm forever having to re-do the silicone around bathrooms which (I'm assuming) have been done using this method by 'professionals'.
I've seen kitchen fitters walk away _as_ the bead they've applied to the worktop is sinking down the back of the gap (that was Howdens).
I have a whole bathroom to do next week _because_ all the silicone has failed
I have standing customers and none of _my_ silicone has ever caused me, or them, any grief.
Have fun next week 😁👍
Yeah ,ive never regretted getting the silcone tools they really take the stress out of siliconing.
Thank you for the tip mate, I'm getting ready to redo the Caulking in my Kitchen and Bathroom and this video has shown me what to do and what not to do, but the video has also revealed to me why the Caulking that's there already has been so slippery and broken down and useless
thats good for high polish tiles with the matte or structure one it will be difficult to remove excess in that clean way without soap...
th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
@@jimosullivan1389 was not aware that Gordon Ramsey is silicone master as well
As a professional kitchen and bathroom fitter, all good info but I would add, first don’t cut the nozzle at an angle, (I notice yours was straight but you didn’t mention it) I don’t know where that craze came from but the point digs in and messes up the bead plus you can only silicon at one angle so you get stuck when you come to a corner, so cut your nozzle off square, that way you can control the bead better. Second - where ever possible hold the gun at just off 90 degrees to the the corner and 45 degree’s to the surface and wall and drag the whole gun towards you as you gently squeeze, this pushes the sealant right into the corner giving a better seal plus naturally scrapes the bead flat. You want the bead to be very slightly swelling behind the nozzle as it moves along but not too much, with practice you’ll get a near perfect bead that needs minimum tooling.
Nice video.
I was a kitchen and bathroom fitter all of my working life. I've never used soap. I used to tape everything then cut the finger off a latex glove to smooth with my finger. It takes a little longer but it's a brilliant Finnish. I'm really liking these silicone tools. I ordered a set the other day from Amazon .Great video ✌️
Isn't the purpose of the glove to avoid getting it on you? Why would you cut a finger off of it? Better not to waste the glove in the first place.
@@edeaglehouse2221 I only smooth with 1 finger. 1 glove gives me 5 clean fingers. I'm not in the habit of getting it all over my hands and the latex leaves a very nice finish.
Using a finger or lolly stick gives you a concave finish, this leaves extremely thin weak areas , the bead should be finished flat to ensure the strongest bond.
@@sijcalv I've never had a problem or any call back. Obviously I don't press my finger as hard as I can and my fingers are quite large.
@@tonywharton5220 We would never allow anything but a tooled flat finish, taping takes too long and is not required by competent sealant applicators.
Man.... It opend my eyes. While im still fiding myself being apprentice, as Im working for old (handy)man it grinded my gears that he uses method millions did wrong. I tried to politely tell him but he refute my findings... Its gotten so far that I believe that many people rather to quick and dirty as they get call back "earlier then sooner" as they then can ask for money for their work...
He even sometimes calls in a supposedly professional grout/kitter to do the jobs even they do it wrong when I observ them ...
Id like to do it right first time just like how id like to have it on my own house...
Love this video, especially the fact that his sound is superb.
Thanks Gerry 🙂
Thank you! I've got a caulk job that I need to undertake tomorrow, which I'm not going to lie is well outside of my regular wheelhouse, and I've been watching other so-called pro tutorial video clips make all of the recommendations mentioned here what not to do. But I said to myself, "OK, I think I got this, buuuuutttttt.... Let's just have a look here a this one last video and confirm the process!" And thank God that I found this video in time! I would surely have sprayed after caulking and left a mess on a time-sensitive job that I won't be able to repair later! Thank you for the leg up and major time saver!
A great tool to use is a piece of electrical conduit pipe sawn off at an angle. It collects the excess silicone in the tube and works like a charm. Spray the tube if you want, particularly the inside of the pipe.
Sounds interesting 🤔
So do you push the tool into the bead? Instead of pulling along the bead? Im assuming that's what you mean in order to collect the excess inside it
I'll try that, thanks!
Here is an example on how to use the pipe th-cam.com/video/mpqOMajoJkQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZbQV0kLVOYSOdy6b
The previous video said to do the opposite of your advice. It just shows you can't believe everything. Thanks for giving the reasoning behind your advice.
That's why I made the video because of all the others saying to spray it directly
Excellent explanation of how to do the job properly.
I personally finished the silicone without soap fist, for that good adhesion indeed, and then used the soap water for a finishing touch. I hope that’s fine. Thanks for pointing out these potential issues
Why fist?
Why not fingers?
th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
@@wayneessar7489 th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
Sorry if this is redundant, but I made the mistake of using an expired tube of silicone sealant. I had no idea that silicone has a finite shelf life. It was printed on the tube but I didn’t bother to look. Not only would it not skin, but it would not set up at all. I have to scrape it all out and get a new tube that had not expired.
Ah that sounds like a right pain
Partly agree...
There are infinite ways of doing this.
*Using only fiber or rubber leaves thin marks on sides of gap, after some time they become visible...
Using painters tape for limiting side marks leaves you with thicker sides of bead + you have to plan order of tape removal etc
*Using soap liquid is nice if you can apply the silicone very precise and not leave uncovered spots
Any of methods is self challenging and has + and - 😅
Corking tip!
Always done it this way with Dow Corning 785 and it lasts many years.
Werent that long ago a tube of it was 4 quid and now its a tenner.
Dow seems to have a good reputation
I saw it for £12.90 yesterday. 😖
I always use Dow. If customers present me with their own Brand X... I give it back and get the Dow out.😂
Did you mean caulking tip? ;)
@@jason-hh6luwas it 30% Extra Free? 😂
A very noble attempt to demonstrate how you think a pro would approach the job.
- apply silicon correctly & slightly thicker then your tool tip is
- spray (there’s no issue with it if silicone is applied properly)
- spray your toll & carry on… dress it nicely
No, it is not easy for the beginners… as a lot of different things is no so easy when you’re just starting.
25+ years doing that way, no issues at all… but apply it properly.
Exactly!
👍🏻 indeed.
Anybody could do that on smooth tiles. I would like to see you try on something bumpy
@@PaulsCarpentry-dq8tj we do it all of the time. To surfaces like sandblasted granite ,EIFS, stucco, precast concrete, split faced block etc. But we use proper tools ( basically metal spatulas) kind of like the one he made out of wood
@@genecarden780 Tooling knife.
@@williamfreeman6935 they are called different things in different regions. I’ve heard them called many things. In the 60’s and 70’s a lot of people called them “ Sheffields” because at the time,the best ones came from Sheffield. I have also heard them called “strikers” , “ slickers”, “ pointers” ,”spatulas” ,” irons” and just plain old “ caulking tools” None of these are right or wrong. Just depends on when,where, and who you learned from. Albion calls theirs spatulas.
What do you think of masking taping the area 3/8" from the corners, then using a piece of 1/2" plastic pipe to smooth out the bead.? Removing the tape right away
I've never tried the pipe method, I might give it a try as a couple of people mentioned it. I avoid using tape in the bathroom/kitchen as it leaves a lip that I can't stand the look of 😆 I used tape when I sealed my windows though
My wife swears by the wet finger method, hits the right spot and does a good job every time.
😆
LOL😆😆
Make sure to have a clean finger and go steady with the amount of pressure. I've seen lads wetting it with their tongue beforehand. I agree with you and your wife, a finger will usually give a good satisfactory result.
lol I’m a caulker and this video is hilarious, none of you know what your talking about, no offence , but it’s good cis it keeps me employed
Yep, that's what she told me too. 😉
Thank you so much. Now I know why the soapy method was bothering me so much. Better live with an ugly line than with a molding one
Gees. Now I know why my tub window has mold everywhere. Thanks for sharing!
It's because you don't dry your bathroom. Try cutting out the sealant. Redo the silicone and do as you did before. It will mold again.
Also some caulks are not mold resistant. It could be the product.
From across the "Pond", Orlando, Florida U.S.A. I wish to say "Thank you Sir!!" Yours, after numerous others, is without doubt the best explanation, and demonstration I've seen. Best wishes! And thank again! P. S., Liked and subscribed.
I've never ever used any spray before. Never thought about it tbh
That's a good thing 👍
I use painters tape to caulk all joints that will be seen, especially big gaps. It looks really good. This is really good for DIYers that dont know what they're doing.
I’ve been using a weak washing up liquid spray for 20 years in over 300 bathrooms, never had a single problem.
In fairness your bead laying is shocking, your test pieces are are super smooth and flat ceramic, try doing your test on a rough riven tile or a split face tile.
I’ll continue doing it the way I know works for me.
That's fine, you do you 👍 I've done riven slate before without needing soapy water 🤷 there's been a few people saying the beads were shocking, the average DIY'er would lay down similar though and that's why I've shown what happens. If you laid down the perfect bead, logically you wouldn't need to use soapy water in the first place 🤷
He's right about the film , his initial application is shocking though lol may aswell not even use the nozzle 😂
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT I try lay as close to perfect bead at first and then smooth over lightly . If there's excess silicone left ill then spray iver it knowing my seals made and can take off the excess without the wall material getting covered, not an issue on tiles but on textured wetwall and stuff it definitely matters . Combine both methods if you know how both work/fail . Like you say though common diyers need it made si please for them as they're following instruction rather than having an understanding as to why they're doing it
Absolutely. Totally agree. Those beads were shocking.
basic physics and chemistry, soap prevents adhesion.
I agree completely, just use the right tools and you can't go wrong. Icypole sticks are great for striking off caulking too.
I' learned this about 20 years ago and it works great, the only difference is I put the dish soapon my finger and then spread it out ask needed,
Good video, thank you for more info for us
Hey, great video..
Can you advise on using silicone strips around the bath and in the corner, vertically where the shower is?
I've had a cowboy cause untold damage when installing my bath and shower and tiles..
Thankyou ❤️
I used to just wet my finger with soapy water for the final finish. That seemed to work fine. Won't even be doing that from now on. Thanks for showing us.
You can just use water, but soapy water isn't worth the risk I don't think
Water on your finger prevents the caulk from sticking to your finger. What you don't want is water on what you're caulking. You want it to stick there.
That's what I've always done or spray it on the tool not the surface I'm going to caulk I would think it would be obvious you want it to be a clean dry surface
@@richardstetson8221 I did my 2 master bath sinks today. Had to gently smooth with a soapy finger (mild / dab in a full spray bottle. Not sprayed directly) a few spots that didn't tool cleanly, but I got a spot or 2 wet ahead of me caulking. Didn't stick at first tried to brute force it I guess wanting to get the job done. Carefully dabbed with paper towel it stuck then I tooled it. Am I going to have adhesion issues where a little mild soap water / residue could have been between counter and porcelain?
It's maybe two 1" spots but enough to irritate me. Caulk was injected well and completely filled, tooled not concave. Will the silicone caulking absorb some part of that or nullify it & adhere? Water dries and silicone adheres? Since it's not exposed to air to dry while it's wet? Thoughts? 🤣I'm experienced but no pro.
Great tip another thing I've done is with my finger dip it and soapy water and slide it across. Because you're not wetting the edge where the gap can be you get a good seal as it pushes it in against the surface and doesn't stick to your finger
This is a job I hate but I don't trust others to do for me. I tend to clean the surfaces with meths first to ensure the are clean and then use a tool. In our current build we are using Nuance Bushboard panels. These come with a colour adhesive which seems to be better than just normal silicone. The great thing with this is you can use white spirit to remove any excess AFTER you apply it. I did two bathrooms in our holiday rentals a couple of years ago with this and they still look great.
Yep I use meths and then a hair dryer to make sure it's really dry when I have to re-do the shower tray. I used masking tape to get nice straight lines which I would do again but not washing up liquid on my finger next time! It's profiling tool for me from now on.
That product sounds interesting, I'll have to check it out 👍
100% correct.....in a shower you have have big problems with water
surface needs to be clean, cut nozzle properly and squeeze caulk into the gap, not just on the surface....fill the whole void, you can use paint thinner on a rag if your not good at making a clean bead after you have tooled it on
another tip is get a caulking gun.....good gun, cut the tip correctly and proper application makes the job alot easier.....been caulking since the 80s regularly
Now you can do it properly.......th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
Great stuff at last someone has made video why not to use that 💩 when doing silicone.
The amount of times i’ve had to redo silicone because someone has done this just doesn’t bear thinking about.
Nice one mate hats off to you 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent demo & description....love your practical down-to-earth attitude. Thanks very much!
Read the manufacturers data sheets.
100& Ace brill! A really excellent video. Helps anyone to avoid grief from the outset. Thanks
CAULK TUAH!!!!
Top man 👍
Top video! If you read the manufacturer instructions or the building codes themselves, NO WHERE do they mention spraying the sealant or using anything other than a tool to force it into the joint at the right size. In the old days they would lick their finger, but don't do that either, please, lol!
First thing is learn is how to caulk !
Push forward into the join , don't drag the gun backwards.
You want to push the product into the gap , not make it sit at the surface.
Don't use your finger, our skin has oil on it naturally or you might have contamination on your hands.
Use an icy pole stick
Or caulking tool.
If you caulk into the join with the nozzle cut correctly , you can use windex or dishsoap and water. Don't saturate it, It is purely to smooth the surface.
Water is usually used when applying polyurethane fillers such as Sikalfex pro or sikaflex fc. They are water activated.
Dont ised bleach based cleaners either, silicones for bathroom and wet area have acetic acid as a mould inhibitor.
Bleach or chlorine based products will neutralize the anti moulding agent.
That’s right. I’ve always wondered if they achieve a water tight seal when squirting all that soap and water where you need the silicone to stick too. You explained it well.😊
Super glue adheres to a substrate sprayed with water too
Never knew people used soapy liquids when calking, this is the first I have ever heard of it. All three beads of calking were all far too thick.
It would be hard to demonstrate with small beads though, the video wouldn't be any good if noone could see what I was talking about 😅
I always let the silicone begin to go off before I touch it. Dip my finger or smoothing tool in water with a minute drop of washing up liquid in it which helps prevent the silicone from sticking to my finger. Works a treat. I've never sprayed anything as it is far too much liquid!
If you have to take the time to spray your beads with soapy water……get a new job
DYI'er aren't pros.
Another issue is that the manufacture will state "Do Not Tool" on the back of a lot of these tubes. So, how do you get around this and make nice, clean beads? You cut the tip properly and push the tip instead of pulling it.
When you use your finger you leave the oils and other gunk and impurities on and in the sealant and that leads to mold and mildew building up even faster. When you use a tool, you do the same, especially if you use wood, you will leave some sort of residue and a lot of tiny little grooves that the debris can adhere to.
Great video, just subscribed.
Can you show how to remove old and mouldy caulk shower, kitchen etc) and how to clean and dry the surface afterwards to ensure the new caulk adheres?
I also have exterior metal window sills which are in two sections. The bottom section slides in and is then caulked all the way along.
The old caulk has deteriorated, cracked and is rock hard. Can you advise how to remove the caulk without scratching the white "enamel" on the metal?
Thanks Kathy, I have a couple of tips about removing old sealant in my shower screen video which I will put at the end of this. There is a link in that description for all of the useful silicone tools. You'd be better off using the plastic tools if you are worried about scratching anything. You can also use the remover gel which should soften up any sealant. Clean with methylated spirits. th-cam.com/video/sGN766p0qJw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=45sqKM5oEsKveGFq
@@THE-AIDEN-PROJECT
Thanks for the info Aiden and will take a look at the video. 👍
Thank u.. been saying this for years. I never use soapy water or glass cleaner. If you know how to caulk you wont make a mess
Excellent. I stopped using spray years ago after I thought about what was really happening. Tip, pop-stick (is that what you call them? Ice cream stick) works if you’re not prepared. I love silicon profiles. Funny thing, they used to be ninety degrees with a radius. I always thought they should be about 85 degrees to allow for “swiping down“ angle. Lo and behold a few years later that’s what became available. Avoid the 90 degrees ones.
Great video on this subject.First person I have seen do it properly
I have been doing it this way for years I never understood why people used the diluted washing up liquid and water.First time seeing your videos 👍just subscribed
@The-Aiden-Project : Regarding that little wooden tool that you made yourself for smoothing out the caulk lines... What degree would you say the tip of that tool is cut to? Is it cut to 45° angles on both sides, so that the tip comes to a sharp "V", or is it less than 45°, giving the tip a bit of thickness at the very tip of it? Just curious, because I'm working on making my own real quick, so I can get a good caulk line on my bathtub that I'm having to redo the caulk on.
TIA!!
I use mineral turps to clean my joint, tools and finish the silicon with a profit tool. Mineral turps allows you to top up an area.
th-cam.com/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/w-d-xo.html
I don't know why people think that silicon is glue, but it is not its only good as a gap filler, but a very good video, perhaps you should do a video on how sticky silicon is or not.
Excellent video thank you for taking the time to share and be so thorough in both explaining and showing. Makes total sense! 👍👍👍
Here's how i do it:
1. Apply the gaulk to the corner seam
2. Remove the extra with an ice cream stick or silicone profiler tool
3. Spray the silicone or your fingertip
4. Run the silicone with your finger
Part 2 is very essential here before using any soap as that will make sure that there are no gaps that will mess up with the adhesion.
Excellent vid. I'm about to redo some bathroom sealant for the first time ever, so this advice will come in handy.
I wasn't going to use anything as you suggested but someone told me I should recently.
Whoever fitted our shower didn't seal it until they fitted the glass doors and frame, so water was getting behind it and leaking through to the floor and then the next room.
I've dismantled the shower cubicle and will be sealing the tray to the tiled wall before I put the frame back in place.
I've also read that you should only seal the outside of the shower and not inside. Not sure if that only applies to the bottom and not the frame where it attached to the walls I was thinking I'd do inside and out for the frame to the wall, or I fear water would get behind and go mouldy.
Hey, good luck with it 👍 good idea to seal it properly before the cubicle frame. I do a decent bead around most of it, maybe 8mm and then I do a tighter bit where the frame will sit, otherwise your frame will sit either off the wall slightly or off the frame. I only ever seal on the outside of a shower cubicle, it allows water to drain into the tray rather than getting trapped inside. My other video may help th-cam.com/video/sGN766p0qJw/w-d-xo.htmlsi=mprT13FLQH5M9M9Z
My husband has totally messed up our bathroom iit looks a complete mess only he's don it in hard stuff needs chipping off now
But, is it okay to use soapy water on your finger after already using the tool? To make it just a bit smoother?
very interesting, i have used all methods, never happy with the results. Cheers Aiden.
You'll get it one day 😉
Wow. Enjoyed the depth in which you went into... Thanks for the video!
Are the tools easy to use if the tiles are rippled effect and not flat?
Yes but the slightly more flexible ones might be better, I've got a few different ones in my Amazon page (link in the description). The trick is to not put on too much in the first place. With textured tiles sometimes it's better to use the clear silicone
The main reason for peling silicone is because everyone just buys the cheaper acetoxy silicone. Spend a little more and get low modulus neutral cure silicone. Its thicker, easier to tool and will last much longer. Cheaper 'general purpose' silicones are not fit for purpose and a total waste of time. If it smells like vinegar, you got the wrong stuff.
Total amateur here - but - have you considered also after removing old silicone to swap any mould with ascetic acid/vit C crystals (v cheap) as this kills mold so will minimize it regrowing in future? Obvs leave to dry completely first.
Good video bro, don't listen to negative comments. Originally from Scotland I've lived in Canada since I was 17. You are spot on with explanation of how not to finish a caulk joint. Carpenter all my working life, never used "fairy liquid"😅