Ha ha! I was yelling at you on the TV when you were setting the second bushing on the second control arm. I saw the zirk fitting was rolled in the wrong place.😮 so glad you caught it in time!👍
I totally understand that you need to do regular life but it’s great to have you back. Really appreciate you including the mistakes and keeping it real. Was pleasantly surprised to see you on TFS. Looking forward to upcoming episodes!
@@GarageFabI need ur advice on a build project so I have a 68 firebird that at one point was crashed in back and I want to run a 3 link similar to the nfamous 3 link kit the plan was to do two bars on bottom and the Y shaped wish bone would come out in between the back seat and I was gonna make kinda like a center console/arm rest cop holder but what I was wondering what kind of joints would u use for something that has high 400 to 800 hp it’s gonna be static ride height flex joint heim joint bushings? What would u recommend i thought about putting a bushing on one end and then a flex joint on the other adjustability / so under torque wouldn’t have as much flex as just rubber bushings on both ends my question is can u put both bushings and flex joints also what end should they the located dose it make a difference if the rubber would be on the diff end or the flex joint would be on the diff end or it doesn’t matter ? It’s gonna have a watts link and coilovers
Why don’t more lowered guys use uniballs instead of ball joints? Seems stronger and maybe even a little less fabrication that would be needed. I could be wrong, honest question though.
How is this guy still alive!?!? Seriously nice to see you in your garage building stuff!! Instead of being someone else camera guy. With your effort and me watching I think my mini will be getting resurrected soon!!! Minitrucker for life!! Stay safe Brotha’
Yeh they’ll definitely do the job! One thing people often overlook is that wishbones are kind of sacrificial too to save the chassis in the event of the wheel hitting something hard. Difficult to calculate for us mere mortals though. Glad you’re back dude! Keep moving forward!!
Dude, this one and the jig making video are gold! I’m not copying any an arms, as I’m doing a custom build but will still be making that jig, just to make life easier. Got my sub mate 👍🏻
Thank you my friend! I haven’t made any videos on it yet but the jig absolutely helps with completely custom builds as well. Just measure and set the individual components wherever you please. Best of luck! Lemme know how things go.
Man, I can’t wait to see the next video on the front suspension explanation. No pressure bro but the ones you did on explaining the rear end suspension was balls to the wall awesome. Hugely entertaining and explained everything so well. Can’t wait man… good to see you doing this stuff. Keep grinding 👍🏻 🇦🇺
Great vid! Yes the holesaw guide is a magnificent trick I learnt from this channel. Used it at work a few weeks ago, worked like a charm. Thank you 🙏🏻 The old online availability thing really gets my goat as well, same story here in Australia. Rarely apparent as to whether it is available in store or order in 🤦🏻♂️
Great Your back! But lower control arms? really - What a pain, but a fantastic jig and setup. Once of the best fab projects on TH-cam! Was going to summit to replace the cheap stamped control arms and bushes on my truck - second OEM set already!
I learned a trick from another TH-camr that worked for me to fixed a warped plate after welding. Flip the part over and, using the heat marks as a guide, weld as identical of a bead exactly opposite from the welds on the first side. The shrinking weld will pull the warped metal back to near straight. Once it's cooled, you can remove the welds from the back side.
He's back! Awesome. Also, a note on measuring perimeters (I saw you use that straightedge ruler to measure around the curve), I have found that seamstress tapes are incredibly handy when measuring perimeters for edge banding. Hope this helps.
Brother! Good to see you. Real soon I have to revamp my hitch mounted bike rack. Pivot bore and stopping bore are wearing oblonged. Gonna weld in tubes for the parts to work on. May last a little longer. Better than spending $$$ for store bought.
SO great to see that build. I know that I am going ot have to build some of these myself at some point when I start my build of my 1928 Morgan/GN special Hillclimb race car...
Glad to see ya back at it brother. Since i last talked to ya ive completed my 4 link, bagged all 4 corners and painted my 75 dodge dually. Wish i could share a pic here
I have used copper slugs , shapes, washers for close proximity welds to avoid crossing into don’t weld locations on the parts. It’s really helpful when you’d have trouble grinding after welding. Also rig up a few clamp on cheater bars to steady your welding hand when there is no good way to brace your welding hand. I have used a plain old shovel that I wedge tight with a foot. I made my shaky hand welding look many times better.
I live in Michigan, and if it's overe 85 or less than 50 I have a hard time staying motivated out in the garage. Probably why my truck is going on 9 years. lol I can't even imagine being out there when it's 110+, even if it is a dry heat. Saw your toolbox on Justin's channel. Nice. About 3 times the size of mine, and mine's not small.
Since you mentioned the TH-cam algorithm, I will, too. I did not get any type of update that you had posted a new video. Its been a month since you uploaded this!? Theres been SO MANY days that i would've loved to take a 45 minute bathroom break to get away from actual responsibilities (like work) to watch you build some minitruckin' stuff. Instead, I had to watch it on my own time and not get paid for it. LOL Thanks alot, TH-cam.
The router is definitely my next tool. By the way, unless I haven’t been paying attention, I like the mix of elapsed and normal speed video. Excellent content as always.
This is surprisingly similar to doing complex wood work. Making good jigs is like 70% of the battle. There is even a saying… the best wood workers are the best jig makers
Totally. I work both metal & wood. There's a lot of insightful crossover between the two. I frequently wonder, "What would a woodworker do in XYZ situation if they didn't weld or machine metal?" and vice versa. Also, I do a good bit of metal work for other woodworkers, and woodwork for other metal workers. All the while I think, "It must be frustrating to have to hire someone else to make a specific work aid instead of just whipping it up their self." Definitely gives me empathy for those clients.
@ yeah I’ve dabbled in both but I am much more skilled at wood work. The tools and machining process are a lot easier to come by I feel like. Sometimes I wish metal was as easy as throwing it in a shooting board and using a hand plane to square it up lol
as well as the exhaust fan works - maybe one fan pushing to the one already pulling , might be an idea ? "but" I'm definitely sold on the idea , simple and easy to store what's not to like
As soon as you tacked that bushings shell I said " uhh mankandie!? And then you went ughhhh lmao. Always love watching your videos. And love the long form way more that the short ones lol. But content is content and I'll take it how I can get it. Since I never have the time to come over.
Outstanding job Aaron! You always make me feel like I could do it too. I'm doing the Crown Vic IFS swap on my 65 F100 and I keep hearing about shorter control arms to narrow the CV IFS to give a little more fender clearance. You've got me wondering if I could pull this off. It's intimidating but you always manage to make it seems possible.
Nice one!!! Looking forward to the content. I've been using your MDF/ 1/4" ply trick this week. So far as round holes go I have created a few jigs in 14 ga to promote longevity. Also created a few other shapes to use. Oh! i was going to say they make a hole saw that is adjustable and uses a HSS bar than can be re ground. Not sure where to get one maybe with milling supplies. "Keep Moving Forward!"
Brotha, you need a bench top mill for your garage!! It will get rid of your drill press and have WAY MORE abilities to mill/drill holes to precision diameters along with just basic milling abilities. I can sent you a pic of mine if you’re interested.
You can use one fan to make a venturi style extractor. Mount fan up higher at the ceiling to collect fumes and have it T or Y to blow past your table height duct collecting a lot of the particles.
Hole saws make holes oversize with wavy cuts. You have a better chance with annular cutters. They have carbide cutting bits for saw teeth. Yes, more expensive but the cuts are way cleaner and way more precise while cutting faster. You have to be aware of the arbor for some are special for specific power tools while others have a straight shank. KBC, MSC, Shars, McMaster Carr, and Amazon have them but again, the arbor may be an issue with fitting what you have available to turn it. Once you use an annular cutter, you will never want to pick up a hole saw. Iffing you had a Bridgeport style mill at your convenience, friend or whatever, the finished cut is even better again. A drill press does a decent job though. Nice thing about annular cutters is that they are available in Imperial and mm.
I don't use one often enough to merit the investment. I had to drill a large hole in 1/4" steel using my old Atlas 15" drill press and was truly amazed at the quality of the finish of the drilled hole vs a hole saw. I have to shop for straight shanks no larger than 1/2" diameter. Even the cheap metric sets from Amazon work well although they are metric sizes I am using for inch dimensions for the most other holes, only have the one in imperial.
IMO should have done the 1 3/4" hole, and carbide bit the 1/16 off to the perfect fit. Plasma gives a crap edge that is twiceas hard to gride off. Just my 2 cents. You do good work sir! 👍
Those control arms sure look strong. But alignment will sure be a fun day. It will be a miracle if that car runs straight. The whole point of the jig is for it to help with transferring the original shape of the suspension geometry. Welding out of the jig defeats the whole point, one of the pieces warped. Also, yes, you can choose the distance of the bushings, but any change in the height of the control arm weld will affect caster. And I can pretty much guarantee caster will be dissimilar in both control arms. Not confident. One thing you got straight, when fabricating the control arms, it would've been much better to get them professionally cut using a CNC plasma cutter. That would've ensured accuracy. The rest is normal fabrication, but initially it would've been much better to have the pieces properly cut. Hope it turns out ok tho. Stay safe.
Welp, I can’t speak certainties until alignment day comes, but I’m pretty confident things are going to go swimmingly. Hopefully you’ll be around to see that day. I love showing things that don’t go well so you may have something to look forward to. Excuse the incoming links to other videos… Suspension geometry and alignment doesn’t care much about whatever is between the connection points. A control arm can be steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber. It can be shaped like an A or an S… or an octopus. What matters is the distance between the connection points (axis’, pivots, bushings, ball joints, etc.) and the locations of those things in relation to each other. th-cam.com/video/PXhosFUSZWI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6V78Xw9XGGlIYd1M In other words I could warp one control arm like a Pringle and the other one could be perfectly straight. When welding the bushings on in the jig, the effective length of both arms would be nearly identical. (Not considering any slight movement of metal caused by weld heat.) Other things may come into play like how much movement a ball joint has and therefore the angle the ball joint needs to be mounted to provide enough unbinding travel, but that has nothing to do with alignment. Caster and camber are determined by the left-right-forward-rearward Position relationship between the upper and lower ball joints. Vertical location of said ball joints changes nothing except the angle the control arm appears to be. if the effective length is correct. The inaccuracy of this method is realized and so alignment cams are being added. These cams will allow for adjustment of both caster and camber by giving the ability to position the lower ball anywhere within an approximate 1.5 inch circle. th-cam.com/video/fxRap1HwYVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=c-YArJWO0IpuSg4a If things are screwed up far more than I realize, I will still have the alignment method that was intended by the vehicle manufacturer which is shimming the upper control arms. I have a large amount of confidence I will be able to achieve perfect alignment, and if it’s imperfect, it will at worst be even left-to-right. In other words. Maybe caster ends up slightly excessive… but they’ll be even to prevent pulling or wonky handling. Oh… and all the rear components will also be adjustable to dial in thrust angle if needed.
Minimizing unsprung weight will make a big difference to performance and ride quality..... but having a functioning part that won't break will have an even bigger impact on the performance and ride quality. Sometimes you need something done and slapping things where they need to go will get it out the door. If you need to improve things later, you can do all the FEA and parametric whatever you want later, work in composites, do your jiggery-pokery.. but first things first, get it on the ground and make things work.
That's one of the lovely things about a personal project. You can just make it work to start with, and fix things as you find their limitations or just want to improve something.
I was wondering what happened to your channel, and then I got a video notification. That's when I saw i wasn't subscribed anymore. I'm used to this happening on my political subscriptions, but not my automotive channels. Great video. Your purpose building your rig for cruising, not high-speed runs, so who cares about weight. I don't worry about weight on my 4x4 trucks. My concern is strength and durability.
I’ve been noticing the same thing happening to me. I guess TH-cam knows what I want to watch more than I do. Exactly! It’s being built for a woman Sunday driver. Cornering at 100mph is not the goal. Surviving curbs and medians and other immovable objects and never working on this thing again is absolutely the goal.
@@frente2zapatista My current favorite is the Miller 211 Auto-Set machine. It’s not really a multiprocess machine but you can aluminum with a spool gun attachment. The machine can use either 120 or 240 volts. The auto feature is fantastic as it helps new welders focus on their technique and get accustomed to what a good weld should sound like. It’s a small machine so it doesn’t take up too much room and it’s not very heavy either. Lastly, it’s capable of producing some of the most beautiful welds I’ve seen. At just under $2000, I don’t know if you consider that adorable but to me it’s worth every penny. I purchased a multi process machine, (MIG, TIG, Stick) but learned that it can only TIG steel, and therefore I only use it to MIG.
Saw in another video, the Grand Poobah brought you a Jimmy John's sandwich. Good video today. I always learn something. You are a creative guy. And how is the tig welding coming along?
@@tomjuney5921 I have not answered that one. I have an Ingorsoll Rand 60 gallon compressor. It’s definitely not a space friendly compressor. It’s actually in my back yard and the air line is run along the entire length of my house. It makes it so I don’t have to listen to it while working. My neighbors do. 😆
Great work 🎉 In also making some custom control arms, I'm trying to make sure the welder penitrates good I'm loof for heat and volts on the welder and ideas 💡 A titanium 200 unlimited 120v outlet 30 0r 35 wire, and mig gass, any ideas 😅
I have a imprortant question? I got custom control arms from phat phabz they just came with bushings and sleeves. Should i drill and tap a zerk fitting hole in them so they can be greased? I would also need to cut down some of the length of the bushings so there would be a gap but thats all . Is that worth it to do? Or should i just grease them by hand when putting the pishings in? Whould adding zerk fittings be way better in the longevity of the bushings?
Phat Phabs makes some really good stuff. If they’re not putting Zerks in, perhaps they have some polyurethane that doesn’t create much noise. Noise is the main reason I install Zerks. When polyurethane dries, and it will, it’ll start to squeak. From my experience, quality polyurethane bushings last a really long time even without grease, and only need to be replaced when the hole in the middle starts to get bigger due to constant compression, not so much wear. In fact, grease can shorten the life of polyurethane if the wrong grease is used. (Petroleum greases) I cannot afford a Phat Phabs truck so I have no experience with them. If I could afford one, I would install Zerk fittings, simply because of my own experience with noise, my laziness when it comes to maintenance, and because I can. If you decide to install them, yes, you’ll need a small gap between bushings. You don’t need much so measure how far the bushings push into the shell and measure the shell. You only need roughly 1/8 inch. Another thing to consider is that bushings that are intended to be greased are designed a little different. Grease ready bushings have little channels that run parallel to the inner sleeve, to allow grease to pass from the center gap to the outside of the bushing, therefore lubricating the inner sleeve. If you haven’t already, watch this video and you’ll see what those channels look like and you’ll understand how the bushing is supposed to be operating. th-cam.com/video/8Ex0dGojHZI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=B65WGDZ62_tvStPn If those channels aren’t already there, you’ll need to make them. You can carefully cut 4 channels into the polyurethane with a hacksaw blade or small file. Again they don’t need to be very deep. You are NOT cutting channels into the outer parts of the polyurethane. The poly isn’t meant to rotate inside the outer shell. You can grease the outer walls to help press the bushing in if needed, but future grease shouldn’t be needed. Lastly, be sure to use silicone grease. It’s stupid expensive! But you’ll only need to buy one tube for the rest of your life. Kinda makes it seem less expensive.
@GarageFab thank you so much for all the info. Im just gonna install everything the way it came bc like you said it's probably for a reason it's that way.
Dude you build a mean control arm! I'm planning on doing long travel suspension on my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. I think it's easy to assume that the factory ball joints won't hold up Any recommendations? Rod ends? Johnny joints?
Glad you are back at it. Those are way overbuilt...perfect!
Awesome! Glad to have you back. We've missed you!
I'm building my own vehicle. There are a lot of things i learned from you, tanks for sharing with us.
@@hojbota-ptv My pleasure my friend! Best of luck.
Ha ha! I was yelling at you on the TV when you were setting the second bushing on the second control arm. I saw the zirk fitting was rolled in the wrong place.😮 so glad you caught it in time!👍
I totally understand that you need to do regular life but it’s great to have you back. Really appreciate you including the mistakes and keeping it real. Was pleasantly surprised to see you on TFS. Looking forward to upcoming episodes!
@@charleytodd5792 Regular life is a treat! Unless we’re talking about the day job. 😠 Maybe one day, full time Garage a Fabbin will be regular life.
@@GarageFabI need ur advice on a build project so I have a 68 firebird that at one point was crashed in back and I want to run a 3 link similar to the nfamous 3 link kit the plan was to do two bars on bottom and the Y shaped wish bone would come out in between the back seat and I was gonna make kinda like a center console/arm rest cop holder but what I was wondering what kind of joints would u use for something that has high 400 to 800 hp it’s gonna be static ride height flex joint heim joint bushings? What would u recommend i thought about putting a bushing on one end and then a flex joint on the other adjustability / so under torque wouldn’t have as much flex as just rubber bushings on both ends my question is can u put both bushings and flex joints also what end should they the located dose it make a difference if the rubber would be on the diff end or the flex joint would be on the diff end or it doesn’t matter ? It’s gonna have a watts link and coilovers
Why don’t more lowered guys use uniballs instead of ball joints? Seems stronger and maybe even a little less fabrication that would be needed. I could be wrong, honest question though.
Starting my week with a Monday morning Garage Fab drop. It's gonna be a good week. 😊
Yes it is!! Best week ever. 👊
Thank you for coming back
How is this guy still alive!?!?
Seriously nice to see you in your garage building stuff!!
Instead of being someone else camera guy.
With your effort and me watching I think my mini will be getting resurrected soon!!!
Minitrucker for life!!
Stay safe Brotha’
Love the vent you use to pull fumes out . We need a video on that !!!!!!
Keep up the great work . Love the build projects
@@mikemccallon6957 I’ll certainly do a video when it’s a little less slapped together. 😆
New Garage Fab video! Heck yeah! Dude is making me want to build an IFS hotrod for absolutely no reason.
Haha! Mission accomplished.
Love your use of WAD/WAM (Wood Aided Design / Wood Aided Manufacturing).
Heck yeah Mr fabber. You inspire
Kudos to the man with integrity.
Most valuable comment right here! Stay quality-driven and the rest will fall into place.
Great idea with the plug welds
These videos are inspiring me to attempt upper and lower control arms for my 1955 Ford Fairlane. I want it lower but need more travel. Thank you!
Yeh they’ll definitely do the job! One thing people often overlook is that wishbones are kind of sacrificial too to save the chassis in the event of the wheel hitting something hard. Difficult to calculate for us mere mortals though. Glad you’re back dude! Keep moving forward!!
Love your work. Love the videos being so genuine - warts and all. So glad your back.
Fellow “sin city citizen” here- good to see ya back- nice work! Inspiring! I eagerly await all your vids! Thx for posting
Dude, this one and the jig making video are gold! I’m not copying any an arms, as I’m doing a custom build but will still be making that jig, just to make life easier. Got my sub mate 👍🏻
Thank you my friend! I haven’t made any videos on it yet but the jig absolutely helps with completely custom builds as well. Just measure and set the individual components wherever you please.
Best of luck! Lemme know how things go.
@ Will do mate. One question, what were those drill bits you were using in the press, looked like they had a point on them?
Great to see you got your MOJO back! You're a great teacher...
Good to see you back. I'll be building control arms for my jeep this winter, slightly different than what you go going on. 😆
Cool video! Love the honest mistakes being left in!
Thank you my friend! I once hid mistakes. Folks really seem to appreciate the realness. Thrilled to see you here my man! 👊
Man, I can’t wait to see the next video on the front suspension explanation. No pressure bro but the ones you did on explaining the rear end suspension was balls to the wall awesome. Hugely entertaining and explained everything so well. Can’t wait man… good to see you doing this stuff. Keep grinding 👍🏻 🇦🇺
Great vid! Yes the holesaw guide is a magnificent trick I learnt from this channel. Used it at work a few weeks ago, worked like a charm. Thank you 🙏🏻
The old online availability thing really gets my goat as well, same story here in Australia. Rarely apparent as to whether it is available in store or order in 🤦🏻♂️
Beautiful fab work! Can’t wait to see more
Dude it’s so good to have you back! Positive energy I love it
Great Your back! But lower control arms? really - What a pain, but a fantastic jig and setup. Once of the best fab projects on TH-cam! Was going to summit to replace the cheap stamped control arms and bushes on my truck - second OEM set already!
I learned a trick from another TH-camr that worked for me to fixed a warped plate after welding. Flip the part over and, using the heat marks as a guide, weld as identical of a bead exactly opposite from the welds on the first side. The shrinking weld will pull the warped metal back to near straight. Once it's cooled, you can remove the welds from the back side.
Excellent, see you back, thank you very much for sharing and teaching us, greetings from Chihuahua Mexico
Glad your back. You've been missed...
It's good to see you moving forward............
He's back! Awesome.
Also, a note on measuring perimeters (I saw you use that straightedge ruler to measure around the curve), I have found that seamstress tapes are incredibly handy when measuring perimeters for edge banding. Hope this helps.
Brother! Good to see you.
Real soon I have to revamp my hitch mounted bike rack.
Pivot bore and stopping bore are wearing oblonged. Gonna weld in tubes for the parts to work on. May last a little longer.
Better than spending $$$ for store bought.
Exactly! And the pride and feeling of accomplishment the results. 👏
Another good video. Is the Keep Moving Forward sign something new or am I just distracted by all the fabrication?
Thank you Rick! Um… it’s not “new”, but it hasn’t always been there either. I don’t remember what episode was the first one but I’m guessing mid 2023.
Nice work. I always enjoy your videos!! Keep it up.
SO great to see that build. I know that I am going ot have to build some of these myself at some point when I start my build of my 1928 Morgan/GN special Hillclimb race car...
As always another great. I enjoyed the new music. I am looking forward to the next one.
Watching you work is so inspiring.
Glad to see ya back at it brother. Since i last talked to ya ive completed my 4 link, bagged all 4 corners and painted my 75 dodge dually. Wish i could share a pic here
Nice to get in some garage fab time!
I have used copper slugs , shapes, washers for close proximity welds to avoid crossing into don’t weld locations on the parts. It’s really helpful when you’d have trouble grinding after welding. Also rig up a few clamp on cheater bars to steady your welding hand when there is no good way to brace your welding hand. I have used a plain old shovel that I wedge tight with a foot. I made my shaky hand welding look many times better.
Love seeing progress!
Great to have you back!!!
Awesome to see you back at it. It’s a Minitruck unsprung weight isn’t needed when you can drive 1/2 inch off the ground. I should of said 13mm 😂
Great content man!! Always looking forward to the next one. Be well
First Project Binky, now this?! All we need now is Sarah-n-Tuned to finish that Celica.
At least Sara has regular uploads.
I think I might enjoy watching you make stuff even more than I enjoy making stuff myself!
I live in Michigan, and if it's overe 85 or less than 50 I have a hard time staying motivated out in the garage. Probably why my truck is going on 9 years. lol I can't even imagine being out there when it's 110+, even if it is a dry heat. Saw your toolbox on Justin's channel. Nice. About 3 times the size of mine, and mine's not small.
Since you mentioned the TH-cam algorithm, I will, too. I did not get any type of update that you had posted a new video. Its been a month since you uploaded this!? Theres been SO MANY days that i would've loved to take a 45 minute bathroom break to get away from actual responsibilities (like work) to watch you build some minitruckin' stuff. Instead, I had to watch it on my own time and not get paid for it. LOL Thanks alot, TH-cam.
Super beefy arms. The control arms look pretty stout, too. ;-) Great video, Aaron. Looking forward to the next one.
Keep moving forward!
The router is definitely my next tool. By the way, unless I haven’t been paying attention, I like the mix of elapsed and normal speed video. Excellent content as always.
Great video. Keep up the good work. Glad you’re back on it.
So glad you are back, love the videos. Need to get you to a million subs!
Hey bud haven't seen much from you in a long time. I see you're channel has blown up from 30k to over 80. Close to the silver TH-cam plaque !!
Definitely getting there! I’ve been pretty lazy lately so the growth slowed quite a bit, but I feel a second wind coming.
This is surprisingly similar to doing complex wood work. Making good jigs is like 70% of the battle. There is even a saying… the best wood workers are the best jig makers
Totally. I work both metal & wood. There's a lot of insightful crossover between the two. I frequently wonder, "What would a woodworker do in XYZ situation if they didn't weld or machine metal?" and vice versa. Also, I do a good bit of metal work for other woodworkers, and woodwork for other metal workers. All the while I think, "It must be frustrating to have to hire someone else to make a specific work aid instead of just whipping it up their self." Definitely gives me empathy for those clients.
@ yeah I’ve dabbled in both but I am much more skilled at wood work. The tools and machining process are a lot easier to come by I feel like. Sometimes I wish metal was as easy as throwing it in a shooting board and using a hand plane to square it up lol
@@roachwerks3043 It kind of is, on a vertical mill. I've learned neither is easier or harder than the other craft, just different.
as well as the exhaust fan works - maybe one fan pushing to the one already pulling , might be an idea ? "but" I'm definitely sold on the idea , simple and easy to store what's not to like
Best videos on TH-cam.
Thank you my friend! 🙏
Waiting on the "Keep Moving Forward" shirts!
Amazing content like always
Good to see another video from you!! I'll patiently wait for the next!!
its not just the vital information...its the entertaining character running amuck with tools
Hahaha! Thank you my friend.
Awesome as always amigo! Glad you're back!
Awesome work good to see u back old mate it seemed like an eternity
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂👍
As soon as you tacked that bushings shell I said " uhh mankandie!? And then you went ughhhh lmao. Always love watching your videos. And love the long form way more that the short ones lol. But content is content and I'll take it how I can get it. Since I never have the time to come over.
Long form might be the new Garage Fab. It actually takes more time to make shorter videos. 🤔 Time I ain’t got!!
Thank you my friend!
Outstanding job Aaron!
You always make me feel like I could do it too.
I'm doing the Crown Vic IFS swap on my 65 F100 and I keep hearing about shorter control arms to narrow the CV IFS to give a little more fender clearance.
You've got me wondering if I could pull this off. It's intimidating but you always manage to make it seems possible.
We miss you and your videos bro..... ❤❤ im glad your back making content for sure
Can never get enough of your videos and fab work! 💯 I am in Vegas for SEMA. You coming thru? 🤘🏼🔧
I am! But I’m kinda get jerked around at work and have no clue what day I’ll get to go. Totally up in the air at this point.
WOW! real fabrication. it is great to see you back at it again. it stinks when life gets in the way.
Fantastic! Nice work as always
Wow that's skookum, scope creep mini-truck rock bouncer!
Nice one!!! Looking forward to the content. I've been using your MDF/ 1/4" ply trick this week. So far as round holes go I have created a few jigs in 14 ga to promote longevity. Also created a few other shapes to use. Oh! i was going to say they make a hole saw that is adjustable and uses a HSS bar than can be re ground. Not sure where to get one maybe with milling supplies. "Keep Moving Forward!"
Nice work!
Mice to see u back man hope your all well nothing better than seeing someone build something 😂😂😂
Sooooo stoked you’re back bro🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thrilled to be in a comfortable garage!
Thank you my friend.
Appreciate your videos , glad to see you back. Would you be willing to make another set or possibly selling your old ones
Brotha, you need a bench top mill for your garage!! It will get rid of your drill press and have WAY MORE abilities to mill/drill holes to precision diameters along with just basic milling abilities. I can sent you a pic of mine if you’re interested.
I’m certainly willing to look at it! GarageFab702@gmail.com
You say bench top. Does that mean it’s not huge?
You can use one fan to make a venturi style extractor. Mount fan up higher at the ceiling to collect fumes and have it T or Y to blow past your table height duct collecting a lot of the particles.
He’s back!
@@Christopherbever Who?!
@ the G man! I’m headed to Vegas dor a week for sema tomorrow! Any cool shops/garages I should hit up?
They are great, if your building a Semi-Truck....Nice job...;-)
@@HemiDartGT Well… it’s a kind of a truck… that you can’t really use as a truck… so then I guess it is a semi-truck. 🤔
Hole saws make holes oversize with wavy cuts. You have a better chance with annular cutters. They have carbide cutting bits for saw teeth. Yes, more expensive but the cuts are way cleaner and way more precise while cutting faster. You have to be aware of the arbor for some are special for specific power tools while others have a straight shank. KBC, MSC, Shars, McMaster Carr, and Amazon have them but again, the arbor may be an issue with fitting what you have available to turn it. Once you use an annular cutter, you will never want to pick up a hole saw. Iffing you had a Bridgeport style mill at your convenience, friend or whatever, the finished cut is even better again. A drill press does a decent job though. Nice thing about annular cutters is that they are available in Imperial and mm.
I got the vevor mag drill with 3/4 weldon shank. I'm so impressed with annular cutters. One of the best tools i ever bought!
I don't use one often enough to merit the investment. I had to drill a large hole in 1/4" steel using my old Atlas 15" drill press and was truly amazed at the quality of the finish of the drilled hole vs a hole saw. I have to shop for straight shanks no larger than 1/2" diameter. Even the cheap metric sets from Amazon work well although they are metric sizes I am using for inch dimensions for the most other holes, only have the one in imperial.
First time i drilled through 1/2 steel like butter was so satisfying. Compared to how hard that would have been to do with regular bits
...you make it look easy...so good...👌
Wow, nice work!!
Yes excited to see you back your mint man
Looking damn good!!!
You could drill holes in the arms to lighten them. Drill them big and pass a tube through? Just ideas to ponder
IMO should have done the 1 3/4" hole, and carbide bit the 1/16 off to the perfect fit. Plasma gives a crap edge that is twiceas hard to gride off. Just my 2 cents. You do good work sir! 👍
Those control arms sure look strong. But alignment will sure be a fun day. It will be a miracle if that car runs straight. The whole point of the jig is for it to help with transferring the original shape of the suspension geometry. Welding out of the jig defeats the whole point, one of the pieces warped. Also, yes, you can choose the distance of the bushings, but any change in the height of the control arm weld will affect caster. And I can pretty much guarantee caster will be dissimilar in both control arms. Not confident. One thing you got straight, when fabricating the control arms, it would've been much better to get them professionally cut using a CNC plasma cutter. That would've ensured accuracy. The rest is normal fabrication, but initially it would've been much better to have the pieces properly cut. Hope it turns out ok tho. Stay safe.
Welp, I can’t speak certainties until alignment day comes, but I’m pretty confident things are going to go swimmingly. Hopefully you’ll be around to see that day. I love showing things that don’t go well so you may have something to look forward to.
Excuse the incoming links to other videos…
Suspension geometry and alignment doesn’t care much about whatever is between the connection points. A control arm can be steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber. It can be shaped like an A or an S… or an octopus.
What matters is the distance between the connection points (axis’, pivots, bushings, ball joints, etc.) and the locations of those things in relation to each other.
th-cam.com/video/PXhosFUSZWI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=6V78Xw9XGGlIYd1M
In other words I could warp one control arm like a Pringle and the other one could be perfectly straight. When welding the bushings on in the jig, the effective length of both arms would be nearly identical. (Not considering any slight movement of metal caused by weld heat.)
Other things may come into play like how much movement a ball joint has and therefore the angle the ball joint needs to be mounted to provide enough unbinding travel, but that has nothing to do with alignment.
Caster and camber are determined by the left-right-forward-rearward
Position relationship between the upper and lower ball joints. Vertical location of said ball joints changes nothing except the angle the control arm appears to be. if the effective length is correct.
The inaccuracy of this method is realized and so alignment cams are being added. These cams will allow for adjustment of both caster and camber by giving the ability to position the lower ball anywhere within an approximate 1.5 inch circle.
th-cam.com/video/fxRap1HwYVI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=c-YArJWO0IpuSg4a
If things are screwed up far more than I realize, I will still have the alignment method that was intended by the vehicle manufacturer which is shimming the upper control arms. I have a large amount of confidence I will be able to achieve perfect alignment, and if it’s imperfect, it will at worst be even left-to-right.
In other words. Maybe caster ends up slightly excessive… but they’ll be even to prevent pulling or wonky handling.
Oh… and all the rear components will also be adjustable to dial in thrust angle if needed.
Minimizing unsprung weight will make a big difference to performance and ride quality..... but having a functioning part that won't break will have an even bigger impact on the performance and ride quality. Sometimes you need something done and slapping things where they need to go will get it out the door. If you need to improve things later, you can do all the FEA and parametric whatever you want later, work in composites, do your jiggery-pokery.. but first things first, get it on the ground and make things work.
That's one of the lovely things about a personal project. You can just make it work to start with, and fix things as you find their limitations or just want to improve something.
Look at the mock up at 5:20 vs 34:00 mark. I think the MDF template didn’t factor in the radius of the bushing holders
good work as always !
I was wondering what happened to your channel, and then I got a video notification. That's when I saw i wasn't subscribed anymore. I'm used to this happening on my political subscriptions, but not my automotive channels. Great video. Your purpose building your rig for cruising, not high-speed runs, so who cares about weight. I don't worry about weight on my 4x4 trucks. My concern is strength and durability.
I’ve been noticing the same thing happening to me. I guess TH-cam knows what I want to watch more than I do.
Exactly! It’s being built for a woman Sunday driver. Cornering at 100mph is not the goal. Surviving curbs and medians and other immovable objects and never working on this thing again is absolutely the goal.
Quick question, is there a welding machine you would recommend? I will like to buy a multiprocess welder. Thanks for the help 👍🏾
@@frente2zapatista My current favorite is the Miller 211 Auto-Set machine. It’s not really a multiprocess machine but you can aluminum with a spool gun attachment. The machine can use either 120 or 240 volts. The auto feature is fantastic as it helps new welders focus on their technique and get accustomed to what a good weld should sound like.
It’s a small machine so it doesn’t take up too much room and it’s not very heavy either. Lastly, it’s capable of producing some of the most beautiful welds I’ve seen. At just under $2000, I don’t know if you consider that adorable but to me it’s worth every penny.
I purchased a multi process machine, (MIG, TIG, Stick) but learned that it can only TIG steel, and therefore I only use it to MIG.
@@GarageFab Thank you 🙏
@frente2zapatista My pleasure my friend
Saw in another video, the Grand Poobah brought you a Jimmy John's sandwich. Good video today. I always learn something. You are a creative guy. And how is the tig welding coming along?
Great video
Step back into the '80s with Jay Leno as he explores the incredible story of a 1984 Honda CRX feat
Love the channel, you’ve probably already answered this, but what compressor do you run in your garage? I’m tight on space also
@@tomjuney5921 I have not answered that one. I have an Ingorsoll Rand 60 gallon compressor. It’s definitely not a space friendly compressor. It’s actually in my back yard and the air line is run along the entire length of my house. It makes it so I don’t have to listen to it while working.
My neighbors do. 😆
@ my house would be egged if I did that🤣 I’m looking at the Eastwood 30/60 scroll compressor
Great work 🎉
In also making some custom control arms, I'm trying to make sure the welder penitrates good I'm loof for heat and volts on the welder and ideas 💡
A titanium 200 unlimited
120v outlet 30 0r 35 wire, and mig gass, any ideas 😅
I have a imprortant question? I got custom control arms from phat phabz they just came with bushings and sleeves. Should i drill and tap a zerk fitting hole in them so they can be greased? I would also need to cut down some of the length of the bushings so there would be a gap but thats all . Is that worth it to do? Or should i just grease them by hand when putting the pishings in? Whould adding zerk fittings be way better in the longevity of the bushings?
Phat Phabs makes some really good stuff. If they’re not putting Zerks in, perhaps they have some polyurethane that doesn’t create much noise. Noise is the main reason I install Zerks. When polyurethane dries, and it will, it’ll start to squeak.
From my experience, quality polyurethane bushings last a really long time even without grease, and only need to be replaced when the hole in the middle starts to get bigger due to constant compression, not so much wear.
In fact, grease can shorten the life of polyurethane if the wrong grease is used. (Petroleum greases)
I cannot afford a Phat Phabs truck so I have no experience with them.
If I could afford one, I would install Zerk fittings, simply because of my own experience with noise, my laziness when it comes to maintenance, and because I can.
If you decide to install them, yes, you’ll need a small gap between bushings. You don’t need much so measure how far the bushings push into the shell and measure the shell. You only need roughly 1/8 inch. Another thing to consider is that bushings that are intended to be greased are designed a little different. Grease ready bushings have little channels that run parallel to the inner sleeve, to allow grease to pass from the center gap to the outside of the bushing, therefore lubricating the inner sleeve.
If you haven’t already, watch this video and you’ll see what those channels look like and you’ll understand how the bushing is supposed to be operating.
th-cam.com/video/8Ex0dGojHZI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=B65WGDZ62_tvStPn
If those channels aren’t already there, you’ll need to make them. You can carefully cut 4 channels into the polyurethane with a hacksaw blade or small file. Again they don’t need to be very deep. You are NOT cutting channels into the outer parts of the polyurethane. The poly isn’t meant to rotate inside the outer shell.
You can grease the outer walls to help press the bushing in if needed, but future grease shouldn’t be needed.
Lastly, be sure to use silicone grease. It’s stupid expensive! But you’ll only need to buy one tube for the rest of your life. Kinda makes it seem less expensive.
@GarageFab thank you so much for all the info. Im just gonna install everything the way it came bc like you said it's probably for a reason it's that way.
Dude you build a mean control arm!
I'm planning on doing long travel suspension on my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis.
I think it's easy to assume that the factory ball joints won't hold up
Any recommendations?
Rod ends? Johnny joints?