So nice to see someone actually explain, and somewhat defend mig welding sheet. So many people get hung up and don't even try to learn because for the last 20 years Discovery Channel, and to a greater extent Instagram in the last 10, has shoved tig welding snobs so far into your brain that people of a more modest skill set think they can't possibly achieve a good outcome without a $7000 machine and a 5yr apprenticeship. Kudos to you, Mr. Fisher.
I was happy to hear you adopt my "bondo worms" description. Great video....a tool that you should have and would love is a Roper Whitney Jr. hand punch. You could punch all those plug weld holes instead of drilling them...much faster and cleaner...no deburring.
Oddly enough I found TIG to be easy to learn because I could already fillet-braze, the technique is nearly identical. My attempts at MIG have been disasterous, but I will continue trying.
Thanks a lot Justin! Yeah I think that for a lot of people getting into the hobby and Meg welder is just a better investment and a more likely tool to start with. Although cheap tigs can be found now There’s a time in a place for all tools. Cheers Justin!
If Fitzee likes it enough to praise it, there must be some good points and merit to it. Cheers, to the both of you for your tutorials. I'm just a hobbyist but I've done this sorta thing for years and I'm always ready to learn from other peoples' work. My poor old Snap-On (badge only, someone else made it) mig welder is battered and worn but it still works and I'll use it til it doesn't then I'll fix it and put it back to work again. Too many projects to do that need a mig welder.
As an autobody painter I want to add it's VERY important to wipe or sand All marker ink off before priming. The ink has a nasty habit of bleeding through the finished paint.. AMAZING work!! 🙂👍👍
I like that in this episode, you used methods of shaping the patch panels that are more accessible to most of us watching who probably don't have all the fancy benders and other tools. Gives us more options if we decide to fix our own old cars ...
I agree up to the English wheel. I've been doing this stuff for a while and don't have one ( yet ). My current English wheel is scrap black pipe in a vise. 😂
Where have you been, I'm79 and just seeing a true artist at work! You are known as "Michelangelo Karl" at our home! Your work is truly unbelievable! Thanks for showing us all how to do work with such great talent and patience!
Great video! Us weekend warriors appreciate the time you put in to making these videos so we can learn. You're a great fabricator. Even Fitzee gives you mention in his videos. 😊 keep up the good work!
As always . so well done and so well explained. Even down to the conversion from 18G to the metric 1.2mm for us metric folk. so many out there just want to show us how good they are. You on the other hand show us how good we can all be with good instruction. I have been a fabricator and engineer for 40 years but not much on car body. the first big job I took on also took on a lot of bondo LOL. Since watching your stuff I have improved massively on car body to the point where I am now building what started out as a scrap 1935 master coupe. I have been following your lead all the way and I am more than happy with how its going,,, all thanks to you Sir. I cant thank you enough. By a mile the best instructional vids anywhere. I am now working on a complex grill from 316 polished. I just have the hood sides to do trying to come up with a good plan for venting the engine. just don't like the boring chopped louvers. wanting it to look in keeping with the 35 master coupe but more sexy. Any thoughts please sir. By the way the welded half tubes for the bonnet edge profiles worked like a charm using silicon bronze rods to keep the heat down. All the very best Phil UK
What an inspiration to the regular ol joe you are . Well done my friend. Beautiful work. I hope Bad Chad and Jolene reach out to your invitation. It was a nice jesture.
The rust prevention techniques that you explained from 20:08 to 22:08 are completely new to me. I had no idea these products or processes existed. So thanks! I know new stuff now! ETA: also the series of spot welds with a blower solved a problem I’ve been trying to figure out for months. Super helpful, really appreciate it.
POR 15 - used to be called Metal ready. It's Phosphoric acid and zinc. The acid reacts with the rust by turnin the rust into iron salts, like Iron Nitrate, Sulphate and Chloride. These dissolve in water, so can be washed away. The zinc bonds to the bare steel, and that's the powdery substance on the steel you see after you've washed it down.
I've used Ospho since the early 90s when my Father found out about it. Clean all oil and grease, it's water thin so can be applied however and it will kill rust and keep good metal sealed from rust. Yes u can buy cheaper phosphoric acid from Home Depo but it is not the same. Ospho has some extenders, modifiers, wetting agents, etc. As long as u knock off the heavy scale, chunks etc whatever would fall off from a air hammer, u can just apply and forget. In bad areas that I can't get to easily I will use Muratic acid. I don't let it sit long, 5 or so min. then rinse with Baking soda and water, Dry with air. Apply Ospho. Clean door drains, seal up, use a brake line or hose and funnel and fill doors a few inches and let sit for a week and drain and save for next year. Gotta kill rust.
Wow! I just discovered your channel. Karl, your wife is so lucky to have a craftsman like you restore her '60 Cadillac. My favorite year! As meticulous as you are, I had to laugh at your finger smudge tracing of your templates. I can relate! Outstanding, instructional video! I hope by now the '60 Caddy is finished and your wife is taking you for a cruise with her!
Super smart fabrication and repair. Todays lesson was absorbed in the the mind. The shrinking, stretching tool work wonders. really nice piece of tool to have in the workshop. Many thanks Karl.
Also, you can save a bit like me by buying a single shrinker/stretcher body with both dies. It’s a bit of a pain to switch back and forth (like when I over shrink) but it’ll get you by and allow you to buy more tools.
@@MakeItKustom why did you mark on your shrinker stretcher tool 18 gauge only ?? I know it might not do 16 gauge but it should do 20 or 22 gauge ?? working with the thinner gauge is a nightmare ..for welding Great Videos you do would love too see more hammer forming with the bucks ..
Karl, I enjoy everything you create. It’s extremely helpful for me when you use simple tools ( the stuff I have in my shop) you are a great teacher. I’m 65 and you can teach this old dog new tricks!
I’d say what a waist of talent, except the unbelievable joy you must give to your customers. You are an extremely rare master craftsman of the highest order. We sure could have used you at spacex twenty years ago.
Another great video. I'm a TIG guy probably because I grew up gas welding with a coat hanger. MIG and TIG didn't exist for the regular guy. I still use my MIG and stick welders for some situations. I keep seeing people say you need a gap to MIG. That seems counterintuitive to me. I think you disproved that idea. Thank you for your time.
I was about fifteen, had the seat rail of a Ducati needing repair, and was taught with coat hanger and oxyacetylene to weld. I've welded mig and tig most of my life, but never the sheet metal. High level of skill demonstrated here.
You’re most welcome man! It’s true it’s easier to get better penetration with a gap if the welder can’t do it. But I much prefer to be more precise with the cuts
Wow, what a great video tutorial. Super informative, very thorough and very well explained. This was impressive and absolutely worth the watch for anybody wanting to learn how to do patches with a MIG welder.
sweet! little tip to make the gentle curve easier/quicker/smoother - make a lip on both sides and shrink them equally, then trim off the one you don't need
I noticed you did square inside corners on these patches. I find, even if I am super careful with heat, the square corners sort of bunch up. I usually put a radius on that cut so there is not hard corner stop. Good stuff, thoroughly enjoy your work!
*So on a left fender with lower trailing edge patch you would be radius'g the upper left corner of the patch? How far back do you typically go from the corner, do you taper the radius and in what order do you tack or bead the radius? Sorry for the questions, I want to try this and have a fender that is curved in a "squirrely" manner.*
@@1nvisible1 it’s sort of arbitrary. I make my patch panel purposely oversized. Then grab whatever is close by that is round (used up tape roll, rattle can whatever) trace that radius on the corner(s) and cut it out. Then trim the repair opening to fit the patch. Hope this helps.
Nice tutorial Karl. I'm a self taught amateur restorer and it makes me feel better that you use a lot of the techniques I've figured out myself. I've always used MIG on thin sheet as you demonstrated and I've got good results... and bad too! Theres still lots to learn so thanks for sharing!
I appreciate that you used simpler hand tools for the first panel and used shop equipment for the second panel. It demonstrates how to do it if you don't have or can't afford equipment, but also shows what kind of equipment to buy and how to use it if someone wants to make the investment.
Nice work Karl, very entertaining and educational. I've done quite a bit of sheet metal work myself (old Nissans kind of are my hobby, long live Japanese cars and the lack of rust prevention), but I wish I had seen this video before - learnt so much. Keep up the good work!
Protip I'm getting old so I keep different color markers for different things and I never change it Red cut lines Blue bends Green txt I have ruined to many panels doing wrong operations
This is better teaching than anyone could get at college! I’m planning to fix floor patches to an old Suzuki car I bought a years ago. Watching this has encouraged me to get on with it. Thanks! 😊
Great info and explanations ! I want to mention that instead of fiberglass filler over the weld area's you could instead use epoxy primer and then put your bondo filler over the epoxy. I only mention it because you had those panels very straight after you welded and I personally would not want to have the added build thickness of fiberglass fill on those repairs. I mean that as a compliment :).
I'm a structural welder, and saw what you did, and I think you have a good point with the epoxy primer. I've watched others do sheet metal work and seen the technique used, without the full clarity shown here. I too, was impressed with the accuracy of the sheet metal work that fit the pieces so perfectly. Some of the best work I've ever seen. It's good to see the young guy's moving in the same ways, directions of our own youth.
@@tonyunderwood9678 Funny thing, I'm sixty five, and got a friend almost ninety, I've known for two decades, who's taught me a lot. I hung out in machine and welding shops, behind the "old men" who were retired, but the "expert knowledge banks" in my own childhood. I believe this is the way of the world, all the way back.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your feedback and absolutely we’ll go that route. After I hammered a little bit there really is not room for a decent layer of fibreglass reinforced filler as it’s not really needed. It’s good to know that Apoxsee primer is waterproof for that application
@@tonyunderwood9678 Yes and the young ppl need to be taught like we was, by respecting the old pros who have the knowledge and tips and tricks. I worked with a welder on pipeline. Others would bitch if they had to be his helper. I enjoyed it. He was salty but he knew his stuff. And as long as I asked b4 doing dumb stuff he'd show or explain it. Kids today just don't seem to have what we did. I think it's cause there's instant everything and they rather finger a fone than crack a book or ask ppl who have skills to help. Their anxiety gets the best of them. Seems like all have this issue. Idk what it is. Seems like last decade that made any sense was 90s. After that it went down hill fast. Maybe it's me. Maybe I'm that guy who now says Back in my day things was better. But compared to the 90s, it was. movies, music, autos, economy. Could buy a car for $250, fix a issue like this or bad wheel cylinder and have a decent car. Now u can't but a full set of brakes for any car for 250, or even 500.
All I can say is WOW. I have watched a lot of videos where people make their own repair panels, but, you are the best that I have seen. I will be watching more of yours for sure. This is a very good how to video.
I learned to weld structural steel fifty years ago, I've done a bit of sheet metal work, when I had to, but never was near as good as with heavy structural metal. I've learned a lot in the simple pattern design, the careful layout, line patterns, that are so useful in getting the metal to conform with intent. I have no intention of changing my trade, but it's enormously helpful to watch the techniques and skill in getting the sheetmetal to do as it's told. I've never had the time to watch the whole process as I have here. Watching the "shrinker" move the metal in the patch was enlightening, it was a beautiful job, pulling the piece exactly to shape. It's been fairly easy to see the shrinkage factor work into the panel shape issues, very nice job accounting for it all. Kind of incredible, the two panels turned out almost exactly the same.
I’m glad you enjoyed this video Jon! I too started in structural steel. There’s definitely a learning curve going to the thinner metal almost nothing applies from structural. And once I got a shrinker stretcher in the shop it really changed my life lol it’s one of the first tools I think people should buy when getting into Trade
Anal about the marking process? Ha! Buddy your passion is surface mounted. I really enjoy watching you tediously give birth to your recreations/creations. I’m just learning how to weld and shape metals at home, with zero back ground in the industry. Turns out, I’m pretty good at it. Your knowledge has been priceless in “pretty good at it” for me. Thank you for sharing. Side note, I can’t walk away from it , if it’s not perfect or as perfect as I can make it…either. They got names for this but I think it’s just quality workmanship. 🤟💯 I dig the attention to detail. HAMMER AND DOLLY ON!😎 ima go make something, get my fix for the day🤣
Hey Cobber, little tip with your roloc discs put a1mm×75mm cutting disc under the roloc when you twist your disc on. You'll get 3x more life out of your disc and more precise grid on you weld. Cheers have a good one, keep up the great content.
It's kind of cool to see you next to the fender for scale and then to realize just how big that freaking fender is 😂😂 I'm really enjoying the caddy work! Can't wait to see that bad boy cruising down the road.
I have been working in a motor vehicle workshop for about 34 years. I would say 70% engine repairs and 30% carrying out mig repairs, mainly for mot failures. I have learnt more about panel shaping in this video than all my years making panels. My welding is actually quite good, but I have always struggled to shape and bend my patches to fit as well as yours. Your grinding/ da work looks effortless Thank you so much for sharing, hopefully I will be able to improve through your videos ❤
This is like secret panel beaters business. 🤠 Thanks so much for sharing. I have had an old body panel in my shed to practice on for about 10 years. My wife keeps wanting to chuck it out. Now I have some knowledge I might just dig it out and fix it. I’ll keep watching and going back through your older videos 🤠
This video saved me $1,200 by making my own replacement guard on my Case tractor! This includes the $100 I spent on sheet metal and 24 pack of refrigerator magnets! Thanks man!
Amazingly good video! Too often we see videos where folks skip over the details, leaving the viewer wondering "how" exactly did he do that? I'm self taught on my fabrication skills, seeing this guy I learn a lot more for sure. Thanks for the content Karl!
Excellent Vid. My father-in-law was a body man since he was 12 working in he’s dad’s shop in the 30’s. I have all is tools which I see you using in your shop. Reminds my of working with him. Love you explanations and teaching guides.
I’m more of a collision repair guy, I would only do custom jobs for myself because it’s so much work. With that being said you’re a beast brother and I love guys that actually care about quality . You are no butcher
Excellent video. I appreciate how you did one side using impromptu tools (bench for bending, etc.) then the other using the brake and English wheel. Helps for those without access to those tools.
This guy can tell and show the DYI guy all day how to do this don’t get your feeling hurt if it does not come out the same his first parts did not also. But he’s what I call a Witch and works at stuff until late hours of the night to hone his craft eats breaths and sleeps this stuff . Can’t wait to wake up and hit it again. I like watching the videos and looking for these guys to work on my stuff as I work at my job and save money to pay them.
I'm a little late to the game, this is the first video that I have watched of you. You do one hell of a good job, I learned quite a bit. people need to understand this is why bodywork and fabrication cost so much. keep it up, I appreciate it. I’ll keep watching.
Just WOW! Those patches are truly artful. Impressed as always. Looking forward to getting the new member's promo code so I can make my students jealous with a new Make It Kustom T shirt.... Thx as always!
I like your channel... You give info - explain it & show it... I started do Body Work in 1965... I was a "Flat Rate" body man... (You have no idea)... Most shops didn't have Frame machines... You put a car on Jack Stands, Chained it down as best you could, Got the torch with the biggest "Rose Bud" tip you had - Pushed the rails with a 10 ton ram and "Beat The F___ out it with a BFH.... Floor pans and other "Metal Forming" was done on anything "hard" old piece of steel - sidewalk curb and you heated it and beat it until it fit... The end result was nothing like what you do - NoBody even thought of welding up Slide Hammer holes... The key was "Fast" and Good enough - You didn't get paid for prefect (or Good)... we got from 6 to 9 dollars a flat-rate hour and I could turn 140 hours a week... (I Clipped Cars - with touch - a hammer and a hacksaw) - (Cut 2 cars in half to make 1) - I never had a "Come-Back" for quality in almost 40 years... I can't do much of what you do - But, back then, You would "Starve To Death" - Do what you do... One suggestion - Turn your music down - It seems to be louder now... Great Job ... I like to compare you & Fitzee - He dose beter work then I did - But he started in the same place (24 Grit Dic & a BFH)
You help us in so many ways and provide many of us who are muddling away in our own shops with loads of inspiration . Thank you sir! Trashcan 🗑Approved
One day I'll be able to begin trying to put some of this great information to use, and likely review a bunch of these videos again. This really is such an invaluable resource. Thank you so much for taking the time!
Thank you Karl for another great video. I’m replacing the lower front pieces of the rear fenders on my 35 Ford and your videos really help. Thanks again.
Once again Karl, a great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to explain why you do things the way you do them. You always make it look easy enough to attempt. Thanks again and we'll see you next time.
I love your work. It is way more professional than many other "builders" nowadays. My dad was a perfectionist. He welded with Oxy Acet . There was no such thing as bondo in his day. His metal work was file finish perfect. He taught me many things in body repair that aren't practiced today. The spot welding method today really upsets me. Every so called customizer never shows the back side of the tack weld process. I can imagine it's not pretty and leaves a good surface for rust to set in. As you said. The old school would remove the bracing panel . Make the repair ( which would be smooth and true on both sides) then re-attach the bracing panel. True craftsmanship. I've watched my dad actually cut a hole in a car roof to access a repair then repair that hole . No filler at all. I like to emulate dads' methods and do it right. Another one of dads mates said " If you have to grind it. Your not a welder you're a boilermakers lackey." Weld an planish is slow but forever. Keep up your good work.
Im watching this a year later parts 1 and 2 from my watch later list Karls work is absolutely brilliant and outstanding i love his attention to detail and also enjoy a few others too great video as always Karl ❤
I have never air cooled sheet metal while welding . But I'm going to now ! Lol . At work we have a driveshaft department , and after they weld a shaft , they blow shop air pressure on the weld for 10 minutes while shaft turns slowly. A very good video here . Well spoken and well shown . I have to get the notion out of my head that I can run a bead on 20 gauge . Not happening. You just have to keep dotting .
I just stumbled onto Your channel and I enjoy the way that You explain the process of forming and installing the patch panels on Your project that is useable on any restoration project ! Great content Thank You . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
So nice to see someone actually explain, and somewhat defend mig welding sheet. So many people get hung up and don't even try to learn because for the last 20 years Discovery Channel, and to a greater extent Instagram in the last 10, has shoved tig welding snobs so far into your brain that people of a more modest skill set think they can't possibly achieve a good outcome without a $7000 machine and a 5yr apprenticeship. Kudos to you, Mr. Fisher.
I was happy to hear you adopt my "bondo worms" description. Great video....a tool that you should have and would love is a Roper Whitney Jr. hand punch. You could punch all those plug weld holes instead of drilling them...much faster and cleaner...no deburring.
$7000 ? you can get a suitable Tig for $500..
Oddly enough I found TIG to be easy to learn because I could already fillet-braze, the technique is nearly identical. My attempts at MIG have been disasterous, but I will continue trying.
Thanks a lot Justin! Yeah I think that for a lot of people getting into the hobby and Meg welder is just a better investment and a more likely tool to start with. Although cheap tigs can be found now There’s a time in a place for all tools. Cheers Justin!
Excellent video thanks for all the tips. Great young man doing something he loves.
Lots of good tips and very well explained. Nice job on the repairs.
If Fitzee likes it enough to praise it, there must be some good points and merit to it. Cheers, to the both of you for your tutorials. I'm just a hobbyist but I've done this sorta thing for years and I'm always ready to learn from other peoples' work. My poor old Snap-On (badge only, someone else made it) mig welder is battered and worn but it still works and I'll use it til it doesn't then I'll fix it and put it back to work again. Too many projects to do that need a mig welder.
Thanks so much Tony!
Its nice to see 2 of my favorite fabricators commenting on each others TH-cam videos.
@@ralphiel5166 was just thinking the same! They’re both awesome!!
I'm getting old. I really appreciate the way you teach without talking down to people, and don't overexplain everything. Kudos bro.
I have absolutely no application for what you do in my daily life, but I can't stop watching your videos.
Name a better metal working channel on youtube and I'll watch it but I haven't found one better than this
As an autobody painter I want to add it's VERY important to wipe or sand All marker ink off before priming. The ink has a nasty habit of bleeding through the finished paint.. AMAZING work!! 🙂👍👍
Same thing with wood and drywall. If there’s a permanent marker mark on there you have to cut the whole part out.
Yep, learned that the hard way…
Absolutely great point! Thank you for that
Your absolutely correct….big problem with bleed through
@@twestgard2 spot priming with shellac works pretty well. Haven’t found anything else that’ll prevent the bleed through
There is no one on TH-cam that provides this content in the same easy-to-understand way that you do. So valuable. thanks
Thanks so much John I appreciate it!
I hope folk realise what a wealth of knowledge they are gifted by you.
I like that in this episode, you used methods of shaping the patch panels that are more accessible to most of us watching who probably don't have all the fancy benders and other tools. Gives us more options if we decide to fix our own old cars ...
I agree up to the English wheel. I've been doing this stuff for a while and don't have one ( yet ). My current English wheel is scrap black pipe in a vise. 😂
Where have you been, I'm79 and just seeing a true artist at work! You are known as "Michelangelo Karl" at our home! Your work is truly unbelievable! Thanks for showing us all how to do work with such great talent and patience!
Great video! Us weekend warriors appreciate the time you put in to making these videos so we can learn. You're a great fabricator. Even Fitzee gives you mention in his videos. 😊 keep up the good work!
3M should absolutely sponsor this absolute legend!!!
I said to myself, well better than the Pakistanis 😂
As always . so well done and so well explained. Even down to the conversion from 18G to the metric 1.2mm for us metric folk. so many out there just want to show us how good they are. You on the other hand show us how good we can all be with good instruction. I have been a fabricator and engineer for 40 years but not much on car body. the first big job I took on also took on a lot of bondo LOL. Since watching your stuff I have improved massively on car body to the point where I am now building what started out as a scrap 1935 master coupe. I have been following your lead all the way and I am more than happy with how its going,,, all thanks to you Sir. I cant thank you enough. By a mile the best instructional vids anywhere. I am now working on a complex grill from 316 polished. I just have the hood sides to do trying to come up with a good plan for venting the engine. just don't like the boring chopped louvers. wanting it to look in keeping with the 35 master coupe but more sexy. Any thoughts please sir. By the way the welded half tubes for the bonnet edge profiles worked like a charm using silicon bronze rods to keep the heat down.
All the very best Phil UK
That is probably the best metal finishing work I’ve ever seen. That is going to need almost no filler before paint. Amazing job!
What an inspiration to the regular ol joe you are . Well done my friend. Beautiful work. I hope Bad Chad and Jolene reach out to your invitation. It was a nice jesture.
The rust prevention techniques that you explained from 20:08 to 22:08 are completely new to me. I had no idea these products or processes existed. So thanks! I know new stuff now!
ETA: also the series of spot welds with a blower solved a problem I’ve been trying to figure out for months. Super helpful, really appreciate it.
You’re so welcome Thomas I’m glad that you were able to absorb some techniques here that answer some of your questions! Cheers
POR 15 - used to be called Metal ready. It's Phosphoric acid and zinc. The acid reacts with the rust by turnin the rust into iron salts, like Iron Nitrate, Sulphate and Chloride. These dissolve in water, so can be washed away. The zinc bonds to the bare steel, and that's the powdery substance on the steel you see after you've washed it down.
I've used Ospho since the early 90s when my Father found out about it. Clean all oil and grease, it's water thin so can be applied however and it will kill rust and keep good metal sealed from rust. Yes u can buy cheaper phosphoric acid from Home Depo but it is not the same. Ospho has some extenders, modifiers, wetting agents, etc. As long as u knock off the heavy scale, chunks etc whatever would fall off from a air hammer, u can just apply and forget. In bad areas that I can't get to easily I will use Muratic acid. I don't let it sit long, 5 or so min. then rinse with Baking soda and water, Dry with air. Apply Ospho. Clean door drains, seal up, use a brake line or hose and funnel and fill doors a few inches and let sit for a week and drain and save for next year. Gotta kill rust.
I just joined, I've been in the Body business for 45 years and you my young friend are gifted. Love the craftsmanship
I have made and mig welded patches and i think you gave a very good lesson for any metal work on a car or truck. Very nice work sir.
Thank you very much
Wow! I just discovered your channel. Karl, your wife is so lucky to have a craftsman like you restore her '60 Cadillac. My favorite year! As meticulous as you are, I had to laugh at your finger smudge tracing of your templates. I can relate! Outstanding, instructional video! I hope by now the '60 Caddy is finished and your wife is taking you for a cruise with her!
Super smart fabrication and repair. Todays lesson was absorbed in the the mind. The shrinking, stretching tool work wonders. really nice piece of tool to have in the workshop. Many thanks Karl.
Yes it really is the best tool for the job. They’re pretty inexpensive compared to other options
Also, you can save a bit like me by buying a single shrinker/stretcher body with both dies. It’s a bit of a pain to switch back and forth (like when I over shrink) but it’ll get you by and allow you to buy more tools.
@@MakeItKustom why did you mark on your shrinker stretcher tool 18 gauge only ?? I know it might not do 16 gauge but it should do 20 or 22 gauge ?? working with the thinner gauge is a nightmare ..for welding Great Videos you do would love too see more hammer forming with the bucks ..
Your detailed information inspire a 60-year-old man to attempt his own bodywork on his rusty 2002 Subaru project car.
Right on! Very stoked to hear it!
Karl, I enjoy everything you create. It’s extremely helpful for me when you use simple tools ( the stuff I have in my shop) you are a great teacher. I’m 65 and you can teach this old dog new tricks!
Right on Chris glad to hear it!
I’d say what a waist of talent, except the unbelievable joy you must give to your customers. You are an extremely rare master craftsman of the highest order. We sure could have used you at spacex twenty years ago.
Another great video. I'm a TIG guy probably because I grew up gas welding with a coat hanger. MIG and TIG didn't exist for the regular guy. I still use my MIG and stick welders for some situations. I keep seeing people say you need a gap to MIG. That seems counterintuitive to me. I think you disproved that idea. Thank you for your time.
I was about fifteen, had the seat rail of a Ducati needing repair, and was taught with coat hanger and oxyacetylene to weld. I've welded mig and tig most of my life, but never the sheet metal. High level of skill demonstrated here.
You’re most welcome man! It’s true it’s easier to get better penetration with a gap if the welder can’t do it. But I much prefer to be more precise with the cuts
Karl it’s always a pleasure to watch a craftsman work.
🙏🙏🙏
Wow, what a great video tutorial. Super informative, very thorough and very well explained. This was impressive and absolutely worth the watch for anybody wanting to learn how to do patches with a MIG welder.
Thanks very much! Cheers
When the student is ready, the teacher appears. Thanks for being such a great teacher Karl!
You’re so welcome thanks for watching! Cheers
Absolutely one of the best tutorials on this subject. Thank you Karl. Keep moving forward and taking us with you!
You’re so welcome and thanks for your feedback
Thanks for explaining everything so well. Also thanks for being so interactive with viewers.
sweet! little tip to make the gentle curve easier/quicker/smoother - make a lip on both sides and shrink them equally, then trim off the one you don't need
Craftsmanship + Experience + Explanation = Great Fabrication Video
man you made this kind of repair look so easy! awesome content.
A pro knows a pro when they see one , even when the pros have different professions . Thumbs up
I noticed you did square inside corners on these patches. I find, even if I am super careful with heat, the square corners sort of bunch up. I usually put a radius on that cut so there is not hard corner stop. Good stuff, thoroughly enjoy your work!
*So on a left fender with lower trailing edge patch you would be radius'g the upper left corner of the patch? How far back do you typically go from the corner, do you taper the radius and in what order do you tack or bead the radius? Sorry for the questions, I want to try this and have a fender that is curved in a "squirrely" manner.*
@@1nvisible1 it’s sort of arbitrary. I make my patch panel purposely oversized. Then grab whatever is close by that is round (used up tape roll, rattle can whatever) trace that radius on the corner(s) and cut it out. Then trim the repair opening to fit the patch. Hope this helps.
I love people like you who really like teaching other people knowledge is power. Thank you and God bless.
Nice tutorial Karl. I'm a self taught amateur restorer and it makes me feel better that you use a lot of the techniques I've figured out myself. I've always used MIG on thin sheet as you demonstrated and I've got good results... and bad too! Theres still lots to learn so thanks for sharing!
Thanks David!
I appreciate that you used simpler hand tools for the first panel and used shop equipment for the second panel. It demonstrates how to do it if you don't have or can't afford equipment, but also shows what kind of equipment to buy and how to use it if someone wants to make the investment.
Great video Karli have been watching your videos for a while and i am always amazed at your metal work and skill 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks so much man I really appreciate it!
Dudes work is so perfect it doesn’t even need body filler tbh 🔥🔥 outstanding work
Nice work Karl, very entertaining and educational. I've done quite a bit of sheet metal work myself (old Nissans kind of are my hobby, long live Japanese cars and the lack of rust prevention), but I wish I had seen this video before - learnt so much. Keep up the good work!
I’m glad that you learned some stuff from this video! Long live Japanese cars!
You are a very talented artist! Great metal working skills!
And thank you for showing/teaching everyone.
Protip I'm getting old so I keep different color markers for different things and I never change it
Red cut lines
Blue bends
Green txt
I have ruined to many panels doing wrong operations
Great idea
This is better teaching than anyone could get at college! I’m planning to fix floor patches to an old Suzuki car I bought a years ago. Watching this has encouraged me to get on with it. Thanks! 😊
Great info and explanations ! I want to mention that instead of fiberglass filler over the weld area's you could instead use epoxy primer and then put your bondo filler over the epoxy. I only mention it because you had those panels very straight after you welded and I personally would not want to have the added build thickness of fiberglass fill on those repairs. I mean that as a compliment :).
I'm a structural welder, and saw what you did, and I think you have a good point with the epoxy primer. I've watched others do sheet metal work and seen the technique used, without the full clarity shown here. I too, was impressed with the accuracy of the sheet metal work that fit the pieces so perfectly. Some of the best work I've ever seen. It's good to see the young guy's moving in the same ways, directions of our own youth.
@@johnmcclain3887 Your point about seeing younger guys following in the foot steps of older guys is a good one. Old people know stuff...
@@tonyunderwood9678 Funny thing, I'm sixty five, and got a friend almost ninety, I've known for two decades, who's taught me a lot. I hung out in machine and welding shops, behind the "old men" who were retired, but the "expert knowledge banks" in my own childhood. I believe this is the way of the world, all the way back.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate your feedback and absolutely we’ll go that route. After I hammered a little bit there really is not room for a decent layer of fibreglass reinforced filler as it’s not really needed. It’s good to know that Apoxsee primer is waterproof for that application
@@tonyunderwood9678 Yes and the young ppl need to be taught like we was, by respecting the old pros who have the knowledge and tips and tricks. I worked with a welder on pipeline. Others would bitch if they had to be his helper. I enjoyed it. He was salty but he knew his stuff. And as long as I asked b4 doing dumb stuff he'd show or explain it. Kids today just don't seem to have what we did. I think it's cause there's instant everything and they rather finger a fone than crack a book or ask ppl who have skills to help. Their anxiety gets the best of them. Seems like all have this issue. Idk what it is. Seems like last decade that made any sense was 90s. After that it went down hill fast. Maybe it's me. Maybe I'm that guy who now says Back in my day things was better. But compared to the 90s, it was. movies, music, autos, economy. Could buy a car for $250, fix a issue like this or bad wheel cylinder and have a decent car. Now u can't but a full set of brakes for any car for 250, or even 500.
Nice work, I love it when folks save cool historical pieces of the past
All I can say is WOW. I have watched a lot of videos where people make their own repair panels, but, you are the best that I have seen. I will be watching more of yours for sure. This is a very good how to video.
I learned to weld structural steel fifty years ago, I've done a bit of sheet metal work, when I had to, but never was near as good as with heavy structural metal. I've learned a lot in the simple pattern design, the careful layout, line patterns, that are so useful in getting the metal to conform with intent. I have no intention of changing my trade, but it's enormously helpful to watch the techniques and skill in getting the sheetmetal to do as it's told. I've never had the time to watch the whole process as I have here. Watching the "shrinker" move the metal in the patch was enlightening, it was a beautiful job, pulling the piece exactly to shape. It's been fairly easy to see the shrinkage factor work into the panel shape issues, very nice job accounting for it all. Kind of incredible, the two panels turned out almost exactly the same.
I’m glad you enjoyed this video Jon! I too started in structural steel. There’s definitely a learning curve going to the thinner metal almost nothing applies from structural. And once I got a shrinker stretcher in the shop it really changed my life lol it’s one of the first tools I think people should buy when getting into Trade
Great tutorial...LOL...so simple even a cave man can do it! You are a great craftsman and a good teacher.
thank you for this excelent video. The last 7 minutes were invaluable to me
Anal about the marking process? Ha! Buddy your passion is surface mounted. I really enjoy watching you tediously give birth to your recreations/creations. I’m just learning how to weld and shape metals at home, with zero back ground in the industry. Turns out, I’m pretty good at it. Your knowledge has been priceless in “pretty good at it” for me. Thank you for sharing.
Side note, I can’t walk away from it , if it’s not perfect or as perfect as I can make it…either. They got names for this but I think it’s just quality workmanship. 🤟💯 I dig the attention to detail. HAMMER AND DOLLY ON!😎 ima go make something, get my fix for the day🤣
Hey Cobber, little tip with your roloc discs put a1mm×75mm cutting disc under the roloc when you twist your disc on. You'll get 3x more life out of your disc and more precise grid on you weld. Cheers have a good one, keep up the great content.
It's kind of cool to see you next to the fender for scale and then to realize just how big that freaking fender is 😂😂
I'm really enjoying the caddy work! Can't wait to see that bad boy cruising down the road.
I have been working in a motor vehicle workshop for about 34 years. I would say 70% engine repairs and 30% carrying out mig repairs, mainly for mot failures.
I have learnt more about panel shaping in this video than all my years making panels.
My welding is actually quite good, but I have always struggled to shape and bend my patches to fit as well as yours.
Your grinding/ da work looks effortless
Thank you so much for sharing, hopefully I will be able to improve through your videos ❤
Nice one Karl , couldn't stop watching from start to finnish .
This is like secret panel beaters business. 🤠
Thanks so much for sharing. I have had an old body panel in my shed to practice on for about 10 years.
My wife keeps wanting to chuck it out. Now I have some knowledge I might just dig it out and fix it.
I’ll keep watching and going back through your older videos 🤠
This video saved me $1,200 by making my own replacement guard on my Case tractor! This includes the $100 I spent on sheet metal and 24 pack of refrigerator magnets! Thanks man!
Great to see a professional artist at work
Your work is very impressive and you are very thorough in your explanation of the processes you go through. Thanks for providing us with great videos!
You do a great job in showing how to fix fenders.I learned alot from this video Thank you for your time doing it for us beginners .
I'm pleased that the Caddy is being worked on. Thanks Karl
Simply Genius. Thank you for reminding me not to overthink the process. Always learn from your videos!
totally enjoyed watching a 5-Star fabricator. Appreciate your channel
Amazingly good video! Too often we see videos where folks skip over the details, leaving the viewer wondering "how" exactly did he do that? I'm self taught on my fabrication skills, seeing this guy I learn a lot more for sure. Thanks for the content Karl!
You’re so welcome and thanks for your feedback! Glad to hear it
You know what? Your freehand work is pretty freaking awesome!
Man I don't even do repairs but this is just satisfying to watch. Great work. I'm a welding student and learned alot from this.
Excellent Vid. My father-in-law was a body man since he was 12 working in he’s dad’s shop in the 30’s. I have all is tools which I see you using in your shop. Reminds my of working with him. Love you explanations and teaching guides.
I’m more of a collision repair guy, I would only do custom jobs for myself because it’s so much work. With that being said you’re a beast brother and I love guys that actually care about quality . You are no butcher
Best video I have seen on the subject!!! Much appreciate it.
Dang it Carl, you make it look so easy. Lol. Your craftsmanship is amazing.
I learned so much in one video of yours. Thanks again
Wow, extremely precise workmanship on display here, verging on perfectionism. Well done Sir, great to see a master at work.
Excellent video. I appreciate how you did one side using impromptu tools (bench for bending, etc.) then the other using the brake and English wheel. Helps for those without access to those tools.
Love how you take the time to mention the little details....
It really helps us newbies/wannabies
Please keep up the videos
This guy can tell and show the DYI guy all day how to do this don’t get your feeling hurt if it does not come out the same his first parts did not also. But he’s what I call a Witch and works at stuff until late hours of the night to hone his craft eats breaths and sleeps this stuff . Can’t wait to wake up and hit it again. I like watching the videos and looking for these guys to work on my stuff as I work at my job and save money to pay them.
Out standing work mate , great to see a man with so much talent giveing his time freely ...
This guy understands metal and he really loves working it he is awesome 😎
I'm a little late to the game, this is the first video that I have watched of you. You do one hell of a good job, I learned quite a bit. people need to understand this is why bodywork and fabrication cost so much. keep it up, I appreciate it. I’ll keep watching.
You are truly a artist !
Just WOW! Those patches are truly artful. Impressed as always. Looking forward to getting the new member's promo code so I can make my students jealous with a new Make It Kustom T shirt....
Thx as always!
Cheers David! You’re right we better get some T-shirts going soon!
Just can't get enough of your content.
A true artist. I enjoy watching every video. Trying my hand with a rust bucket 91 camaro. Your videos are invaluable to me learn so much. Thank you
Thank you so much for sharing this. It is a pleasure to see you work and to hear you explain things.
I like your channel... You give info - explain it & show it... I started do Body Work in 1965... I was a "Flat Rate" body man... (You have no idea)... Most shops didn't have Frame machines... You put a car on Jack Stands, Chained it down as best you could, Got the torch with the biggest "Rose Bud" tip you had - Pushed the rails with a 10 ton ram and "Beat The F___ out it with a BFH.... Floor pans and other "Metal Forming" was done on anything "hard" old piece of steel - sidewalk curb and you heated it and beat it until it fit... The end result was nothing like what you do - NoBody even thought of welding up Slide Hammer holes... The key was "Fast" and Good enough - You didn't get paid for prefect (or Good)... we got from 6 to 9 dollars a flat-rate hour and I could turn 140 hours a week... (I Clipped Cars - with touch - a hammer and a hacksaw) - (Cut 2 cars in half to make 1) - I never had a "Come-Back" for quality in almost 40 years... I can't do much of what you do - But, back then, You would "Starve To Death" - Do what you do... One suggestion - Turn your music down - It seems to be louder now... Great Job ... I like to compare you & Fitzee - He dose beter work then I did - But he started in the same place (24 Grit Dic & a BFH)
You help us in so many ways and provide many of us who are muddling away in our own shops with loads of inspiration . Thank you sir!
Trashcan 🗑Approved
Every time I watch, I learn. Thanks.
You’re welcome Mike thanks for watching!
One day I'll be able to begin trying to put some of this great information to use, and likely review a bunch of these videos again. This really is such an invaluable resource. Thank you so much for taking the time!
Thank you Karl for another great video. I’m replacing the lower front pieces of the rear fenders on my 35 Ford and your videos really help. Thanks again.
Awesome Ken I’m so glad to hear that! Cheers
Man you have a great talent for forming and welding metal make it look easy, your a real artist at your craft.
Once again Karl, a great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to explain why you do things the way you do them. You always make it look easy enough to attempt. Thanks again and we'll see you next time.
Wicked Keith! Thanks for your support!
I love your work. It is way more professional than many other "builders" nowadays. My dad was a perfectionist. He welded with Oxy Acet . There was no such thing as bondo in his day. His metal work was file finish perfect. He taught me many things in body repair that aren't practiced today. The spot welding method today really upsets me. Every so called customizer never shows the back side of the tack weld process. I can imagine it's not pretty and leaves a good surface for rust to set in. As you said. The old school would remove the bracing panel . Make the repair ( which would be smooth and true on both sides) then re-attach the bracing panel. True craftsmanship. I've watched my dad actually cut a hole in a car roof to access a repair then repair that hole . No filler at all. I like to emulate dads' methods and do it right. Another one of dads mates said " If you have to grind it. Your not a welder you're a boilermakers lackey." Weld an planish is slow but forever. Keep up your good work.
Im watching this a year later parts 1 and 2 from my watch later list Karls work is absolutely brilliant and outstanding i love his attention to detail and also enjoy a few others too great video as always Karl ❤
I've been looking forward to this. Got lost in it again, thanks for filming it, I loved every minute.
I have more confidence now to start patching some of the holes on my original body panels. Thanks, Karl!
You’re very welcome!
I have never air cooled sheet metal while welding . But I'm going to now ! Lol . At work we have a driveshaft department , and after they weld a shaft , they blow shop air pressure on the weld for 10 minutes while shaft turns slowly. A very good video here . Well spoken and well shown . I have to get the notion out of my head that I can run a bead on 20 gauge . Not happening. You just have to keep dotting .
Tremendous knowledge was dropped here. Thank you, your content is on point, specifically taking your time to explain things.
I just stumbled onto Your channel and I enjoy the way that You explain the process of forming and installing the patch panels on Your project that is useable on any restoration project ! Great content Thank You . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍
love how u exsplain things i wish i new yours and fitzys channel 20 years ago im good now but always learning thank u
Best instruction I ever seen on this topic. Thank You!
I'm a nobody man from way back but it sounds to me like you doing good job man I like watching your show you teaching this old dog to New tricks
You're brilliant mate, your videos are fantastic! Just jam-packed with helpful knowledge, techniques and experience.