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How NOT to install a drip edge PROPERLY! ALL drip edge is held down via using some sort of nails or screws if you want it to STAY IN PLACE! Don’t just use some glue or tar crap. It’s supposed to be firmly attached to the WOOD, not shingles. Shingles should over hang drip edges by around 3/4” or so depending on application. But if you do this guys hack job you for sure want to add a tar under all that was pried up or with a strong wind you can get some serious or complete patches of your roof torn off in one gust since once shingles are installed they all become one due to the way they’re are designed using the tar that’s pre done on each shingle that most have no clue why is there. And front face screwing on a drip edge seems pretty pointless since you’re installing drip edge to prevent leaks and then create one by drilling or nailing holes in the side that water drips off. Don’t do any of what this guy does here really and call a pro or do it right yourself with lots of time, but easy work on a ladder which is safest or tie off on roof is best if possible.
You've provided the DIY person with the only complete discussion of drip edge installation and gutters. I've viewed about 40 other channels. Thank you !!!
I just discovered that the reason the rain was going behing my gutters was because of a terrible installation and no drip edge, so I am in the process of installing one and thanks to this video I've learned to do it the right way...mjuch appreciated!!!
Thanks! Yes pet peeve of mine is when I see fresh roof work done where theyve mounted the drip edge right against the fascia boards 🤦♂️ you live and you learn! 🤙🏼
Perfectly explained! It answered my question regarding the strip being held in place. Sections of the roof of my new home doesn't have this drip edge and the quotes to install one were much higher than I thought it should be for an easy job. I'm ready to DIY this project!
Well done, total roofing noobie here, and I am replacing rotted wood fascia/soffit that previously did not have a drip edge. This is exactly what I was looking for!
Ty for this video! I have looked at quite a few others but yours is simple and to the point. Exactly what i need to do, and the tip on just sealing the shingle down onto the drip edge with some tar or adhesive is the way to go vs. lifting shingles up to nail it. I had a leak show up in the ceiling dry wall just opposite the outside wall. Attic didn't reveal anything, got up on my 2-story roof opposite the leak and didn't see any issues. I didn't know about drip edge, which they didn't put on my 15 yr. old roof. So, looks like some of the water running off the roof in one area was not completely going into the gutter but wicking under the shingles and soaking into the wood and onto the ceiling dry wall. Funny, I couldn't see anything in the area of the leak when I was in the attic that was wet or showed signs of leaking water. Live in Oregon and get a lot of winter rain. Anyway, now that I know what to do, it is up the ladder, repairs, then fix the drywall. Thanks again!
You're very welcome, happy to help. Yes water leaks can be a little tricky to pinpoint where exactly they begin. You should be able to trace from attic if really get in there. Check for any staining on wood and look above higher in case leak has ran down then dripped onto that spot. Hope you get it sorted and fixed. Ohh yeah you guys get tons of rain, I have an Uncle in Beaverton and another in Oregon City
Great job and presentation. Just solved my problem on house we just purchased. That problem I just got from inspection. Clear instructions on how to solve my problem. Thanks
I'm the biggest doofus in the world, I designed and built my first shed, did all the roofing, getting ready for paint...just to notice I never did a drip edge. This is really helpful, thank you!
No need to beat yourself up. Most new roofing installs do not use drip edges cause it adds expense. I always install drip edges for obvious reasons, but a lot of roofers do not due to competitive pricing. If you want a drip edge, it has to be specified to the roofer. Cheers from Canada.
Very helpful for an existing roof. It's important to know if it should be installed over or under the felt paper (or tar paper as my dad called it)., I believe it goes under? Thanks for making this video!
Good video. House I purchased 2 years ago had just had the shingles done that spring but I noticed leaking behind the gutters this year and was stunned when I discovered no drip edge. Since I have to drive the nails back in to hold the gutters, I probably don't need to use roofing nails. Will run a bead of roofing tar between the drip edge and the shingles though.
Great video. Roofer didn’t lay the shingles correctly and Water wicking is causing fascia rot all over my building. I repaired a section two years ago using the roofing sealant and it’s held perfectly. I couldn’t figure out where the leak was coming from. I had to sister one of the trusses the rot was so bad. Now it’s happening in multiple locations. Another roofer explained the issue to me this week. He’s going to repair the gully and a really bad area. I’m going to seal the rest. Your video helped affirm I’m going in the right direction. Sigh. I’m so aggravated. Roof should have lasted another 10-15 before having issues. Thank you!
@@JonnyDIY he did three for me. The other two are fine, no issues. It’s gotten bad as we’ve been inundated with rain after several dry summers. Thanks for your videos! Will watch the others you have.
Great video! Simple and to the point. When nailing down drip edge can the nail be exposed or does it have to be under a shingle? If exposed, roof tar to cover it?
I was just trying to show a customer the proper way. I was surprised that you talked about the facia gap That's what I was hoping somebody would show it's important Even if someone has a hardy board. If something cannot dry it will die plan & simple
Yea, retro-fitting roof parts is a pain! LOL. But worth it. For some reason, my fascia board also has a 1x2 nailed to it, under the drip edge. I don't see that very often. But it helps protect the fascia better.
Older houses have that 1x2 along the top of the facia, under the metal drip edge flashing. Unfortunately there are few videos showing how to easily replace facia and that 1x2 under existing metal drip edge flashing. The metal drip edge flashing is typically 2" wide at the top and the nails holding it are through the facia and/or the 1x2 from the top, undert the shingles.
@@realjwc9714 Hurricane Ian took off a section of my roof last year and I forgot to tell the roofer to leave that 1x2 off when he replaced it, so he put it back on as the original. It really hasn't been an issue, but I wanted to put aluminum fascia over the wood, but that 1x2 hinders that because of the gap it creates underneath. So what I did myself was nail a 2nd piece of fascia board over the first one, butting it up against the bottom of the 1x2 which now gives me a smooth solid surface for the fascia and/or even gutters. The aluminum fascia is wider than the wood and slides up under the drip edge, covering that butt joint so there's no leaks. My drip edge is quite tight against the fascia too. I did have to rip the 2nd fascia to the exact width so it fit flush with the bottom of the first, but that was no big deal. It works and looks great.
Glad you said you could use roof sealant/tar alone to install a new drip edge. For those who have done their own roof, NEVER reuse drip edge. ALWAYS get new.
Older houses have that 1x2 along the top of the facia, under the metal drip edge flashing. Unfortunately there are few videos showing how to easily replace facia and that 1x2 under existing metal drip edge flashing. The metal drip edge flashing is typically 2" wide at the top and the nails holding it are through the facia and/or the 1x2 from the top, under the shingles. Drip edge flashing now can be bought with a 1/2" overhang out from the portion that goes 'down' the front of the facia.
Yeah that sounds a lil trick but I'd probably just use reciprocating saw to cut the nails holding the fascia to the rafters and then pry down. If that didnt work Id pry up the old drip edge and cut all those nails (could use oscillating tool if reciprocating saw didn't work) holding it down and just replace it after the new fascia goes up 👍
You're welcome. If you run into the problem of the drip edge hitting gutter brackets just cut a small notch making a little tab that you can just bend up clearing the bracket 👍🏻
If your drip edge is already installed, and you are now installing the gutters by sliping them up and under the drip edge, and then using the gutter hangers that come with a built in mounting screw, do you screw through the drip edge and the back of the gutter, and into the facia or rafter end in that case? Seems like in that case the back of the hanger won't slip over the back of the gutter because the drip edge will be in the way now that I'm thinking about it. Thanks for the video.
You will need to cut a slit upwards on the corners of the drip edge to slip gutters up under. And for the mounting holes what I usually do is just cut 2 upward cuts the width of mount making a notch and fold it up then screw in mount and then fold notch down.
Great video. Easy to understand. My issue is rain is getting between the shingles and the top of the drip edge. I know you mentioned it in your video but will using roofing/flashing sealant between the shingles and the drip edge to seal them together stop this problem? Thanks Jonny.
Yes if there's not proper overhang of your first course you could have that issue. And depending how little rain or dew there will be a little capillary action. Yes, I would use the sealant between the two in the areas that are concerning you 👍
Hello, I enjoy your video, it looks exactly what is wrong with out gutters. I am looking around and can you tell me the type of drip edge you used? What size width and it has a little lip. Thank you and take care.
You're welcome happy to help. Pretty sure it was this one from home depot. Gibraltar Building Products 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Drip Edge Flashing in White
Was wondering how to install drip edge when shingles are already there. Thought it needed to be nailed. I just don’t see it possible on pulling back my shingles to nail from top. I guess I’ll try the glue method
I came here for the post shingle install which was how I thought, however. learned the drip edge has to be a 1/2 inch off the facia lmao I sware my installers just slap that shit up to it flush ... thanks for the info!!
You're welcome, yes thats the most common mistake made installing drip edge. If its already up you can try slipping a larger putty knife or flat bar between fascia and drip and bend it outwards so the bottom of the drip edge isnt touching fascia 👍
I have to replace my drip edge because the old (plastic) one is chipped and broken from using a roof rake all winter (I live in Maine). I should use nails or screws to anchor the new (metal) drip edge down,, right? Otherwise I think the rake will just pull it all apart on a cold, snowy day.
Yes you could just screw or nail then cover heads with sealant. Ideally you nail from above through the top if you can, but its too difficult usually with old roofing and not worth risking damage
Yes if you have lots of leaves in area they can help a lot. Can always test how they work on a section one year to see how your native leaves work with particular guards 👍
I have to do this immediately to my house!! Just to be clear, do I put the drip edge [over or under] the underlayment that's already there? Thanks for the vid!
My roofer/contractor installed my roof two weeks ago without a drip edge. Today, he came back and installed the drip edge ON TOP of the underlayment and did not use any cement behind and on top of the drip edge. Shouldn't the drip edge have been placed UNDER the underlayment? Thanks!
That's fine, a lot of people install it over tar paper especially on the rakes of the roof. It depends where you live how roofers do it as well and if dealing with ice and water shield. It's a secondary protection so even if water gets between shingles and drip edge somehow you'll still have tar paper under to protect it
@JonnyDIY I have a Job ahead of me. High winds and Rain causes a Tree branch to hit my main Power Line. Bending the pipe, breaking the Soffit and ripping the Fascia and Gutter off. I have to remove the Gutter, ( approx 35- 40 ft, all one piece) replace Soffit and Fascia and while I'm at it, install a Drip Edge
@@ROCKnROLL1406 ohh man sorry to hear, you've got your work cut out. Good luck with the project, hopefully you'll have some better weather to fix it in 👍
I'd use either construction adhesive like Loctite PL Premium 3x or Loctite roof sealant PL S30 and face nail/screw every so often especially if high wind area and cover the heads 👍
I have a gap between my roof decking and fascia board. I can't anchor the drip edge to the roof decking because of this. Might have to go the roof caulking route.
You don't have to have fascia boards to install gutters. It's preferable though, if don't have them will have to screw into rafter tails (and those would be end grain)
I had some fascia replaced recently, but when the guys demo'd the old fascia, that beat up the drip edge pretty badly. I like how you installed the drip edge, but is there a way to demo out the old beat up drip edge, then replace it with new using the method you showed? Or if we were to install a rain gutter, would that hide the beat up drip edge?
Depends what kind of guards you have, but you want the drip edge over into the gutters so itll drip and drain into gutters. Or if the gutters are mounted below drip edge you want the drip edge bent away from fascia so itll drip into gutters and not back on fascia
My roofer made a mistake. ( Most roofers make the same mistake) Roof shingles are supposed to be installed 1/2” past the drip edge minimum! Most roofers install them even with drip edge. Water surface tension will make the dripping water run down the facia. Just like when we pour out a glass of water and the water runs down the glass instead of pouring out. Water has surface tension! Improper installation results in water running down the facia and behind the gutter. All I could see out my picture window was water dripping off the house behind my gutter every time it rained!
If you can lift the shingles up enough, but sometimes they become too brittle so I'd then suggest either gluing with construction adhesive (loctite 3x premium) or face nail then put roofing sealant over nail
For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge. I'm not sure the polyurethane I purchase will adhere any better to the tar shingle roll roofing material.
Ive had good luck using the loctite brand Pl premium 3x adhesive. I think that would work. It would either be that or a Roofing Sealant in a caulking tube, loctite makes one of those too
I am doing this now after the fact that water has gotten down my trim pieces. You said to put this under the shingles but should I also lift up the tar paper if I can and put this under the tar paper/roofing felt? Just wanted to make sure before I glue it down.. Wasn't sure if I should be above or below the tar paper.
Is it ok to do the gutters after if the drip edge if I installing aluminum fascia? I'm talking alum fascia on the boards then drip overlapping the fascia and then the gutters?
doesn't it help when doing shingles to extend 3/8" past fascia? also what kind of gutters would u suggest if i got drip edge(i got the same drip edge u used to install)
Yes 1st course of shingles should extend beyond fascia. If you have a lot to do I would just hire a gutter guy that makes them onsite out of aluminum. Just try and get a couple bids as pricing can be all over. Good Luck 👍🏻
I have an issue where the roofers installed a new roof a few years back, all new drip edge and all roof accessories. Where two pieces of drip edge meet, they didn't nail them down and they are slightly "popping up" at that joint, creating a slight ridge. How would one drive a nail to fasten that down? I'll have to slightly lift the shingles and I don't know if a tack hammer will fit without stretching the shingles so there is then a permanent stretch in the shingles.
Yes its kind of difficult to get a nail under the shingles but if you slowly and gently pry up the shingles above the area you should be able to drive in a short roofing nail through both pieces into the roof. If you can't get one through the top you can always face nail one through the two pieces. Can use a screw on the face too. That's fine just cover it up with some silicone caulking or some Roofing sealant. I wouldn't worry about one nail hole 👍🏻
@@JonnyDIY That was my concern, water being able to penetrate around a nail if I were to face nail through the facia. Caulk wearing out over time and causing the fascia board to rot. I suppose no sooner than a new roof would be due anyway.
I seem to not have a choice. The sub fascia is a 2x6. On top of that is 1x8. On top of that is the thin metal rollex fascia. And it's all dropped about 3/4" lower and 3/4" further out than the roof decking.
Great vid. I had a contractor install a new roof on my home two years ago. I have an aluminum roof over the patio that connects to the main roof. The drip line / shingle line has a few shingles near the edge that haven’t laid down flat. I thought over a shorter period that this would’ve happened by now. If this makes sense, any thoughts.
Yes the shingles on edge should have layed flat in 2 years. As long as they're not too curled it's fine. And they should slightly extend past edge of fascia
Hi, I am under contract for a home and the gutters were installed over the metal drip edge and not tucked under, per our inspector. What would be the solution to this? Are we able to install a new drip edge without removing the old one or would we be able to remove the gutters, bend the drip edge forward and reinstall the gutters behind the drip edge? What do you recommend? I do plan on contacting a gutter company, but I don't want to get screwed over. Thanks in advance.
Hello Lizeth, I wouldn't worry too much, definitely needs to be addressed in the next year I'd say. If it were me I'd probably just remove gutters and slip back under drip edge. Call around and try and get at least 2 estimates, that way you can get a feel for the market pricing. Go with the one that seems the most competent about the job even if a bit more money 👍
Great video. Thanks so much for making it. Can you include a link to the drop edge as well please? Oh and if you have it a link to the tar/roof sealant you suggested for the “gluing”
Should be able to pick it up at any big box or roofing specific building supply store. Ask for metal drip edge flashing and for the sealant ask for roof and flashing sealant in a caulking tube (makes it easy to use) 👍🏻
No itll be ok, at least you have drip edge installed. A lot better than having no drip edge with gutters. If worried you could caulk the edge where the gutter meets the drip edge to prevent water dripping back between the two 👍
Just found out that my roof doesn't have a drip edge. It's a vynil siding and a fascia metal panel actually sticks up under shingles. I think there's no barrier either
My drip edge is installed over top of the gutter and im still getting water behind the gutter and dripping down the fascia. Ive tried bending out the drip edge and also putting a dowel behind it to keep 1/2" off the gutter but its still getting behind it. Any suggestions?
Hmm it shouldn't be getting much between the two, but some will no matter what. If the drip edge runs over the lip into gutter there's no need to bend it out or gap it with a dowel. But if its shorter drip edge and theres a gap between the two itll need to hang over the gutter though. Last ditch effort I would get some quality silicone caulk, then clean and caulk a bead between fascia and gutter. Just get clear silicone, it'll hold up best and youll never see it
ok but what about people who live on a hill and dont have gutters. One corner of my roof is leaking water behind the facial board every time it rains. I want to fix it but there is nothing that has answered my questions or helped me on here
Sounds like a roofing problem, how the water is being diverted. Could probably be solved with additional flashing and or drip edge and roofing sealant 👍
I was cleaning my gutters the other day and realized i dont have dripedge. My shingles overhang a couple inches over top of my gutters. Man, i never noticed it before. I just had a roof put on about 5 years ago. Why those fools wouldnt have said anything or installed some. I guess i know what im doing today.🤦♂️hopefully i dont have any damage. I wonder if my homeowners insurance would cover that?!😬
Looks to me like all drip edge is not the same. Some are prone to water running down and back to the lower rear which could be an issue if the rear of the gutter is not positioned up and behind it. Some however appear to be made such that water can not run back but is forced to fall off the front edge, into the gutter.
I’ve been looking for this info for a while now, and you’re the only one to explain how to retrofit a drip edge. I knew I needed this because Tommy at This Old House is obsessed with drip edges. th-cam.com/video/sDTCTbyyg1s/w-d-xo.html If you want to capitalize on that, you could also explain how to fix or replace improperly installed drip edges. Additionally, I’m pretty sure his advice regarding gutters is based on snowy New England. It helps for you to explain how it’s different in warm areas.
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How NOT to install a drip edge PROPERLY! ALL drip edge is held down via using some sort of nails or screws if you want it to STAY IN PLACE! Don’t just use some glue or tar crap. It’s supposed to be firmly attached to the WOOD, not shingles. Shingles should over hang drip edges by around 3/4” or so depending on application. But if you do this guys hack job you for sure want to add a tar under all that was pried up or with a strong wind you can get some serious or complete patches of your roof torn off in one gust since once shingles are installed they all become one due to the way they’re are designed using the tar that’s pre done on each shingle that most have no clue why is there. And front face screwing on a drip edge seems pretty pointless since you’re installing drip edge to prevent leaks and then create one by drilling or nailing holes in the side that water drips off. Don’t do any of what this guy does here really and call a pro or do it right yourself with lots of time, but easy work on a ladder which is safest or tie off on roof is best if possible.
You've provided the DIY person with the only complete discussion of drip edge installation and gutters. I've viewed about 40 other channels. Thank you !!!
Awesome. You're very welcome, happy to hear I helped you out 👍
Exactly! you are the only one who talked about how to do it with existing roof.
Seriously, this was the video I have been searching for! Why don't they talk about this! Thank you very much!
I just discovered that the reason the rain was going behing my gutters was because of a terrible installation and no drip edge, so I am in the process of installing one and thanks to this video I've learned to do it the right way...mjuch appreciated!!!
@@mattsanchez4893 You're very welcome, glad I could help. Good luck with the project 🙌👍
Wow!!! You got it RIGHT!! This is the first instructions where you're directed to set the drip edge off the facia trim board.
Thanks! Yes pet peeve of mine is when I see fresh roof work done where theyve mounted the drip edge right against the fascia boards 🤦♂️ you live and you learn! 🤙🏼
Exact answers i needed. perfect length without all the bumbo jumbo. thanks!
You're welcome, glad I could help 👍
Perfectly explained! It answered my question regarding the strip being held in place. Sections of the roof of my new home doesn't have this drip edge and the quotes to install one were much higher than I thought it should be for an easy job. I'm ready to DIY this project!
You're welcome, happy to help. Good luck 👍
Well done, total roofing noobie here, and I am replacing rotted wood fascia/soffit that previously did not have a drip edge. This is exactly what I was looking for!
Thank you! Glad the video was of help. Good luck with your project 👍🏻
Johnny DIY
This is EXACTLY what I need to do as well. Do you recommend the roof sealant to hold it down?
@@coolhluke8089 Me too!
Ty for this video! I have looked at quite a few others but yours is simple and to the point. Exactly what i need to do, and the tip on just sealing the shingle down onto the drip edge with some tar or adhesive is the way to go vs. lifting shingles up to nail it. I had a leak show up in the ceiling dry wall just opposite the outside wall. Attic didn't reveal anything, got up on my 2-story roof opposite the leak and didn't see any issues. I didn't know about drip edge, which they didn't put on my 15 yr. old roof. So, looks like some of the water running off the roof in one area was not completely going into the gutter but wicking under the shingles and soaking into the wood and onto the ceiling dry wall. Funny, I couldn't see anything in the area of the leak when I was in the attic that was wet or showed signs of leaking water. Live in Oregon and get a lot of winter rain. Anyway, now that I know what to do, it is up the ladder, repairs, then fix the drywall. Thanks again!
You're very welcome, happy to help. Yes water leaks can be a little tricky to pinpoint where exactly they begin. You should be able to trace from attic if really get in there. Check for any staining on wood and look above higher in case leak has ran down then dripped onto that spot. Hope you get it sorted and fixed. Ohh yeah you guys get tons of rain, I have an Uncle in Beaverton and another in Oregon City
Exactly what I needed, short and straight to the point. Thank you!
@@shaunmathew You're welcome! Happy I could help you out 🙌👍
Great video, short, to the point and helpful. Thanks.
You're welcome, glad it was helpful 👍🏻
That is absolutely perfect. Sooooo much easier than adding shingles.
Thank you so much.
You're very welcome, happy to help 👍
Short and to the point. Well done.
Thank you, glad to help 👍
Great job and presentation. Just solved my problem on house we just purchased. That problem I just got from inspection. Clear instructions on how to solve my problem. Thanks
Thank you, and you're welcome, happy I could help you out 👍
I'm the biggest doofus in the world, I designed and built my first shed, did all the roofing, getting ready for paint...just to notice I never did a drip edge. This is really helpful, thank you!
You're welcome, glad to help. Hey better late than never! 👍
Same here. Installed new gutters on house. No drip edge. I should be beaten! Thanks for the video!!
@@travismcreynolds3769 you're welcome glad I could help 👍
No need to beat yourself up. Most new roofing installs do not use drip edges cause it adds expense. I always install drip edges for obvious reasons, but a lot of roofers do not due to competitive pricing. If you want a drip edge, it has to be specified to the roofer. Cheers from Canada.
@@petemiller519that may explain the lack of drip edge on my house in North Bay, Ontario.
Ok. Was looking for info on these drip exges you installed and now i have a better idea on how it goes. Thanks
You're welcome, glad I could help you out 👍
Very helpful for an existing roof. It's important to know if it should be installed over or under the felt paper (or tar paper as my dad called it)., I believe it goes under? Thanks for making this video!
Yes, drip edge goes under on the eaves side and on the rake it goes on top 👍
Good video. House I purchased 2 years ago had just had the shingles done that spring but I noticed leaking behind the gutters this year and was stunned when I discovered no drip edge. Since I have to drive the nails back in to hold the gutters, I probably don't need to use roofing nails. Will run a bead of roofing tar between the drip edge and the shingles though.
Good catch, hope you can get it fixed before rainy season 👍
Great video. Roofer didn’t lay the shingles correctly and Water wicking is causing fascia rot all over my building. I repaired a section two years ago using the roofing sealant and it’s held perfectly. I couldn’t figure out where the leak was coming from. I had to sister one of the trusses the rot was so bad. Now it’s happening in multiple locations. Another roofer explained the issue to me this week. He’s going to repair the gully and a really bad area. I’m going to seal the rest. Your video helped affirm I’m going in the right direction. Sigh. I’m so aggravated. Roof should have lasted another 10-15 before having issues. Thank you!
Glad I could help, sorry about the roof issues, hope they get fixed before the wet season
@@JonnyDIY he did three for me. The other two are fine, no issues. It’s gotten bad as we’ve been inundated with rain after several dry summers. Thanks for your videos! Will watch the others you have.
@@Dbb27 you're welcome! 👍
Thanks for the info. We are building our house and just started the roof! Drip edge is coming up quick!
Nice! Yeah drip edge is a vwry important part of the roof system, often overlooked or installed incorrectly. Good luck with the rest of your build
Jonny DIY thanks! Ya man, check out our channel and follow along!!
Thanks! Trying this tmr
Thanks you kept simple and to the point
short and sweet. i watched a few and they made it seem a little more involved.
Glad the video helped you out 👍🏻
That answers any questions I had, thanks.
Awesome, you're welcome. Glad I could help 👍
Good looking out player, really helped me out with the video.
Awesome, happy to help 👍
Solid advice! Short and sweet. Nice job. Than you kindly.
Thank you & you're welcome, glad I could help 👍
Jonny, you rule.
Thanks Terri! 😁👍🏻
Drip edge is installed on the rake ends of a house and gutter apron is installed at the eaves where the gutter is!
In my part of the states it's just drip edge 👍
This is EXACTLY what I needed to know! THANK YOU!
Awesome, you're welcome, so glad I could help 👍
Thank bro,, you save me a lot of money,,
You're welcome, glad I was able to help you out and save you some money 👍
Clearly knows what he's talking about
Great video! Simple and to the point. When nailing down drip edge can the nail be exposed or does it have to be under a shingle? If exposed, roof tar to cover it?
Yes nail heads should be under shingles or if no choice but to have exposed covered with roof sealant/mastic/tar👍
Perfect. Thanks.
You're welcome, glad I could help 👍
Great video!
Thank you, happy to help 👍
Great video, thumbs up and shared!
Thank you! 🙌👍
Thanks man
I was just trying to show a customer the proper way. I was surprised that you talked about the facia gap That's what I was hoping somebody would show it's important Even if someone has a hardy board.
If something cannot dry it will die plan & simple
Yes you're right. So many people install it right up against the fascia too
exactly what I was looking for. Thanks man!!
Awesome, glad to help you out 👍🏻
Yea, retro-fitting roof parts is a pain! LOL. But worth it. For some reason, my fascia board also has a 1x2 nailed to it, under the drip edge. I don't see that very often. But it helps protect the fascia better.
You're right! Always so much more work going back and trying to fix something. Interesting, think I've only seen that a handful of times too 👍
It seems to be a thing in Florida. I’ve seen and have it.
Older houses have that 1x2 along the top of the facia, under the metal drip edge flashing. Unfortunately there are few videos showing how to easily replace facia and that 1x2 under existing metal drip edge flashing. The metal drip edge flashing is typically 2" wide at the top and the nails holding it are through the facia and/or the 1x2 from the top, undert the shingles.
@@realjwc9714 Hurricane Ian took off a section of my roof last year and I forgot to tell the roofer to leave that 1x2 off when he replaced it, so he put it back on as the original. It really hasn't been an issue, but I wanted to put aluminum fascia over the wood, but that 1x2 hinders that because of the gap it creates underneath.
So what I did myself was nail a 2nd piece of fascia board over the first one, butting it up against the bottom of the 1x2 which now gives me a smooth solid surface for the fascia and/or even gutters. The aluminum fascia is wider than the wood and slides up under the drip edge, covering that butt joint so there's no leaks. My drip edge is quite tight against the fascia too. I did have to rip the 2nd fascia to the exact width so it fit flush with the bottom of the first, but that was no big deal. It works and looks great.
@@Dbb27 Yes, I'm in Florida too LOL. The addition on my house with this roof and 1x2 was built in the "50s.
Glad you said you could use roof sealant/tar alone to install a new drip edge. For those who have done their own roof, NEVER reuse drip edge. ALWAYS get new.
Thanks bro . Wish me luck
@@susieblanco2722 You're welcome, good luck! 🙌👍
Well done sir. Explained nice and simple.
Thanks Jim! 👍🏻
Don’t forget to seal where you overlapped the drip edge or water will wick in there also.
Older houses have that 1x2 along the top of the facia, under the metal drip edge flashing. Unfortunately there are few videos showing how to easily replace facia and that 1x2 under existing metal drip edge flashing. The metal drip edge flashing is typically 2" wide at the top and the nails holding it are through the facia and/or the 1x2 from the top, under the shingles. Drip edge flashing now can be bought with a 1/2" overhang out from the portion that goes 'down' the front of the facia.
Yeah that sounds a lil trick but I'd probably just use reciprocating saw to cut the nails holding the fascia to the rafters and then pry down. If that didnt work Id pry up the old drip edge and cut all those nails (could use oscillating tool if reciprocating saw didn't work) holding it down and just replace it after the new fascia goes up 👍
Thanks!
You're welcome, glad to help 👍
This was helpful! Thanks
Thanks, but how does the drip edge fit over top of the gutter brackets that hold it to the facia board?
You're welcome. If you run into the problem of the drip edge hitting gutter brackets just cut a small notch making a little tab that you can just bend up clearing the bracket 👍🏻
Thanks Johnny great vid
You're welcome, & thank you! 👍🏻
Thank you kindly! I have to do this as my roofers didn't install a drip edge and it's running down the fascia.
you're welcome 👍🏻 good luck with the project
nice and easy man nice work
Thanks 😀✌
Hey
Jonny
What kind glue or sealant do you use for this ?
Brand ? or something that will stick permanently ?
Any sort of roof and flashing sealant is good. Vulkem polyurethane sealant is great if they have it 👍
Thanks, I like learning and going to do mine when warmer.
jonny do u have video on replacing rotted wood at edge on existing roof?
I have a video where I replace the wood fascia boards 👍
th-cam.com/video/l77NMEk496g/w-d-xo.html
Thanks man. Simple
You're welcome 😀👍🏻
If your drip edge is already installed, and you are now installing the gutters by sliping them up and under the drip edge, and then using the gutter hangers that come with a built in mounting screw, do you screw through the drip edge and the back of the gutter, and into the facia or rafter end in that case? Seems like in that case the back of the hanger won't slip over the back of the gutter because the drip edge will be in the way now that I'm thinking about it. Thanks for the video.
You will need to cut a slit upwards on the corners of the drip edge to slip gutters up under. And for the mounting holes what I usually do is just cut 2 upward cuts the width of mount making a notch and fold it up then screw in mount and then fold notch down.
How do you work around the gutter brackets? How do you make sure they don't interfere with the drip edge?
Cut a notch in drip on each side of it and bend up so the bracket can slip up into the channel👍
Great video. Easy to understand. My issue is rain is getting between the shingles and the top of the drip edge. I know you mentioned it in your video but will using roofing/flashing sealant between the shingles and the drip edge to seal them together stop this problem? Thanks Jonny.
Yes if there's not proper overhang of your first course you could have that issue. And depending how little rain or dew there will be a little capillary action. Yes, I would use the sealant between the two in the areas that are concerning you 👍
Hello, I enjoy your video, it looks exactly what is wrong with out gutters. I am looking around and can you tell me the type of drip edge you used? What size width and it has a little lip. Thank you and take care.
You're welcome happy to help. Pretty sure it was this one from home depot.
Gibraltar Building Products
1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. x 10 ft. Galvanized Steel Drip Edge Flashing in White
@@JonnyDIY Thank you so much for getting back to me so fast!
@@patriciamurphy8425 you're welcome, happy to help 👍
I never knew this thanks so much!
Youre welcome 😀👍
Thanks man i just did this and it solved alot but now im getting water dripping from my soffit. Any ideas there?
@@mattd8411 hmm if it just started after doing this I'd go back and double check work
@JonnyDIY ok sounds good thanks it seems like the shingles are little spaced facing up.
Was wondering how to install drip edge when shingles are already there. Thought it needed to be nailed. I just don’t see it possible on pulling back my shingles to nail from top. I guess I’ll try the glue method
You can glue or face nail/screw. If you do that just cover the heads with some silcone type sealant and itll be fine 👍
@@JonnyDIY I’m going to try to get under the shingle first. Thanks for the reply 👍
@@zachdavis2641 You're welcome, good luck 👍
check out a tool called the roof snake that is going to be how I add a drip edge to my roof with existing shingles
@@cam4592 thats a cool tool, Ive seen before 👍
Thank you for the video! Question: if I install gutters that have a wing, then I will not need to install any drip edge, correct?
Yes not sure what type you're installing but some gutters dont need drip edge if theyre mounted up tight under shingles 👍
@@JonnyDIY TYVM!
I came here for the post shingle install which was how I thought, however. learned the drip edge has to be a 1/2 inch off the facia lmao I sware my installers just slap that shit up to it flush ... thanks for the info!!
You're welcome, yes thats the most common mistake made installing drip edge. If its already up you can try slipping a larger putty knife or flat bar between fascia and drip and bend it outwards so the bottom of the drip edge isnt touching fascia 👍
I have to replace my drip edge because the old (plastic) one is chipped and broken from using a roof rake all winter (I live in Maine). I should use nails or screws to anchor the new (metal) drip edge down,, right? Otherwise I think the rake will just pull it all apart on a cold, snowy day.
Yes you could just screw or nail then cover heads with sealant. Ideally you nail from above through the top if you can, but its too difficult usually with old roofing and not worth risking damage
After installing the drip edge, would it be a good idea to put gutter shield on my gutters to keep the leaves out
Yes if you have lots of leaves in area they can help a lot. Can always test how they work on a section one year to see how your native leaves work with particular guards 👍
IRC calls for nailing. Just make sure you overlap your joint at least 2 inches and nail at least every 12 inches on center.
thank you for sharing 👍🏻
I have to do this immediately to my house!! Just to be clear, do I put the drip edge [over or under] the underlayment that's already there? Thanks for the vid!
On the bottoms where gutters would be it goes underneath and on the sides it goes on top of underlayment
Great video! Quick question.. would using vinyl drip edges and roofing sealant work under existing shingles?
Yes thatll work fine 👍🏻
To the point… thanks
You're welcome, glad to help 👍
I need to install a drip edge on a metal portico. Any suggestions? Thanks
Could use some self drilling roofing screws to attach. Theyre weatherproof and create a seal
My roofer/contractor installed my roof two weeks ago without a drip edge. Today, he came back and installed the drip edge ON TOP of the underlayment and did not use any cement behind and on top of the drip edge. Shouldn't the drip edge have been placed UNDER the underlayment? Thanks!
That's fine, a lot of people install it over tar paper especially on the rakes of the roof. It depends where you live how roofers do it as well and if dealing with ice and water shield. It's a secondary protection so even if water gets between shingles and drip edge somehow you'll still have tar paper under to protect it
Do you knotch-out the Drip Edge to accommodate for the Gutter Spikes?
Yes just cut a slit a lil wider than spike and bend tab upward 👍
@JonnyDIY I have a Job ahead of me. High winds and Rain causes a Tree branch to hit my main Power Line. Bending the pipe, breaking the Soffit and ripping the Fascia and Gutter off.
I have to remove the Gutter, ( approx 35- 40 ft, all one piece) replace Soffit and Fascia and while I'm at it, install a Drip Edge
@@ROCKnROLL1406 ohh man sorry to hear, you've got your work cut out. Good luck with the project, hopefully you'll have some better weather to fix it in 👍
@JonnyDIY Thank You.
Yesterday, Electrician replaced and Installed new Service and PVC Pipe. One part finished, next my turn once we get good weather
@JonnyDIY I subscribed to your Channel
I need to add this to an existing roof what should I glue this with ?
I'd use either construction adhesive like Loctite PL Premium 3x or Loctite roof sealant PL S30 and face nail/screw every so often especially if high wind area and cover the heads 👍
lepage pl premium or dap POLYURETHANE SEALANT, which one is better for gluing shingle and drip edge? Thanks.
Either will work fine but I use PL Premium 👍
I have a gap between my roof decking and fascia board. I can't anchor the drip edge to the roof decking because of this. Might have to go the roof caulking route.
You can face nail or screw the drip edge too, then just cover with roof sealant 👍
do I need wooden board before installing rain gutters?
You don't have to have fascia boards to install gutters. It's preferable though, if don't have them will have to screw into rafter tails (and those would be end grain)
How did you install the hangers for the gutters? You can't install hidden hangers if the gutter is behind the drip edge.
Cut small slit in drip edge for gutter brackets 👍
I had some fascia replaced recently, but when the guys demo'd the old fascia, that beat up the drip edge pretty badly. I like how you installed the drip edge, but is there a way to demo out the old beat up drip edge, then replace it with new using the method you showed? Or if we were to install a rain gutter, would that hide the beat up drip edge?
You could run new drip edge right over old stuff just get larger one or if you end up getting gutters youll never notice the drip edge 👍
What do you use if you have leafguard?
If gutters clogged underneath it I remove the guard and clean
The drip bar is placed under the membrane, above which there is a ventilated gap. What do you sculpt?
What if I have gutter guards on my gutters already? Do the gutter guards have to be removed to install this type of drip edge?
Depends what kind of guards you have, but you want the drip edge over into the gutters so itll drip and drain into gutters. Or if the gutters are mounted below drip edge you want the drip edge bent away from fascia so itll drip into gutters and not back on fascia
My roofer made a mistake. ( Most roofers make the same mistake) Roof shingles are supposed to be installed 1/2” past the drip edge minimum!
Most roofers install them even with drip edge. Water surface tension will make the dripping water run down the facia.
Just like when we pour out a glass of water and the water runs down the glass instead of pouring out. Water has surface tension!
Improper installation results in water running down the facia and behind the gutter.
All I could see out my picture window was water dripping off the house behind my gutter every time it rained!
If you wanna nail it from the top, how do you hammer it in if you can't pull the shingles all the way back to be able to hammer it?
If you can lift the shingles up enough, but sometimes they become too brittle so I'd then suggest either gluing with construction adhesive (loctite 3x premium) or face nail then put roofing sealant over nail
For a low slope patio cover, (.5" per foot) what is the best method for adhering fiber reinforce rolled roofing to the drip edge. The mastic I used previously let loose after a number of years, causing rain water to wick back and then under the drip edge. I'm not sure the polyurethane I purchase will adhere any better to the tar shingle roll roofing material.
Ive had good luck using the loctite brand Pl premium 3x adhesive. I think that would work. It would either be that or a Roofing Sealant in a caulking tube, loctite makes one of those too
I am doing this now after the fact that water has gotten down my trim pieces. You said to put this under the shingles but should I also lift up the tar paper if I can and put this under the tar paper/roofing felt? Just wanted to make sure before I glue it down.. Wasn't sure if I should be above or below the tar paper.
Yes if you can slip the drip edge under the tar paper 👍
@@JonnyDIY Awesome thank you! That's what I just did! Glad that is the correct way!
@@NewShockerGuy you're welcome, glad I could help 👍
What if drip edge and gutter guards go in the same spot? Under the shingles?
@@anthonyallan8462 drip edge goes down 1st then gutter guards would go on top
@@JonnyDIY thanks
@@anthonyallan8462 Your'e welcome, glad to help 👍
One more thing would you put Roofing tar with both under shingles like that?
@@anthonyallan8462 roofing tar not necessary unless shingles coming up a lot. Should be fine without. The drip edge is very thin material
Is it ok to do the gutters after if the drip edge if I installing aluminum fascia? I'm talking alum fascia on the boards then drip overlapping the fascia and then the gutters?
Yes that'll work fine, try and tuck the back edge of gutters slightly under drip edge too 👍
@@JonnyDIY thank you so much
@@obscurevisuals you're welcome, glad I could help 👍
doesn't it help when doing shingles to extend 3/8" past fascia? also what kind of gutters would u suggest if i got drip edge(i got the same drip edge u used to install)
Yes 1st course of shingles should extend beyond fascia. If you have a lot to do I would just hire a gutter guy that makes them onsite out of aluminum. Just try and get a couple bids as pricing can be all over. Good Luck 👍🏻
Are these drip edges common in UK i cant seem to find many options? Thanks for the video.
Best bet is to go to roofing supply store, they'll have most resources
I have an issue where the roofers installed a new roof a few years back, all new drip edge and all roof accessories. Where two pieces of drip edge meet, they didn't nail them down and they are slightly "popping up" at that joint, creating a slight ridge. How would one drive a nail to fasten that down? I'll have to slightly lift the shingles and I don't know if a tack hammer will fit without stretching the shingles so there is then a permanent stretch in the shingles.
Yes its kind of difficult to get a nail under the shingles but if you slowly and gently pry up the shingles above the area you should be able to drive in a short roofing nail through both pieces into the roof. If you can't get one through the top you can always face nail one through the two pieces. Can use a screw on the face too. That's fine just cover it up with some silicone caulking or some Roofing sealant. I wouldn't worry about one nail hole 👍🏻
@@JonnyDIY That was my concern, water being able to penetrate around a nail if I were to face nail through the facia. Caulk wearing out over time and causing the fascia board to rot. I suppose no sooner than a new roof would be due anyway.
@@kcmaldonado3948 itll be fine the 1 nail or screw. 100% silicone holds up longest time. Doesn't shrink or crack 👍🏻
I seem to not have a choice. The sub fascia is a 2x6. On top of that is 1x8. On top of that is the thin metal rollex fascia. And it's all dropped about 3/4" lower and 3/4" further out than the roof decking.
Great vid. I had a contractor install a new roof on my home two years ago. I have an aluminum roof over the patio that connects to the main roof. The drip line / shingle line has a few shingles near the edge that haven’t laid down flat. I thought over a shorter period that this would’ve happened by now. If this makes sense, any thoughts.
Yes the shingles on edge should have layed flat in 2 years. As long as they're not too curled it's fine. And they should slightly extend past edge of fascia
@@JonnyDIY Ty for the quick response. I’ll be following to watch all of your home improvement ideas.
@@JonnyDIY Yes they do extend past the facia. Ty
@@ehpennsylvania you're welcome, glad to help 👍
Hi, I am under contract for a home and the gutters were installed over the metal drip edge and not tucked under, per our inspector. What would be the solution to this? Are we able to install a new drip edge without removing the old one or would we be able to remove the gutters, bend the drip edge forward and reinstall the gutters behind the drip edge? What do you recommend? I do plan on contacting a gutter company, but I don't want to get screwed over. Thanks in advance.
Hello Lizeth, I wouldn't worry too much, definitely needs to be addressed in the next year I'd say. If it were me I'd probably just remove gutters and slip back under drip edge. Call around and try and get at least 2 estimates, that way you can get a feel for the market pricing. Go with the one that seems the most competent about the job even if a bit more money 👍
Great video. Thanks so much for making it.
Can you include a link to the drop edge as well please? Oh and if you have it a link to the tar/roof sealant you suggested for the “gluing”
Should be able to pick it up at any big box or roofing specific building supply store. Ask for metal drip edge flashing and for the sealant ask for roof and flashing sealant in a caulking tube (makes it easy to use) 👍🏻
So I had someone install gutters completely on top of the drip edge… am I completely screwed
No itll be ok, at least you have drip edge installed. A lot better than having no drip edge with gutters. If worried you could caulk the edge where the gutter meets the drip edge to prevent water dripping back between the two 👍
what type of drip edge did you use?
Not sure of the brand, got at home depot. 2 inch I believe. You'll get better service and knowledge at a Roofing supply store though
Just found out that my roof doesn't have a drip edge. It's a vynil siding and a fascia metal panel actually sticks up under shingles. I think there's no barrier either
My drip edge is installed over top of the gutter and im still getting water behind the gutter and dripping down the fascia. Ive tried bending out the drip edge and also putting a dowel behind it to keep 1/2" off the gutter but its still getting behind it. Any suggestions?
Hmm it shouldn't be getting much between the two, but some will no matter what. If the drip edge runs over the lip into gutter there's no need to bend it out or gap it with a dowel. But if its shorter drip edge and theres a gap between the two itll need to hang over the gutter though. Last ditch effort I would get some quality silicone caulk, then clean and caulk a bead between fascia and gutter. Just get clear silicone, it'll hold up best and youll never see it
Are your gutters backing up?
How do I do it if my roof is curved
you can cut small relief cuts in it to bend and form it to different shapea
ok but what about people who live on a hill and dont have gutters. One corner of my roof is leaking water behind the facial board every time it rains. I want to fix it but there is nothing that has answered my questions or helped me on here
Sounds like a roofing problem, how the water is being diverted. Could probably be solved with additional flashing and or drip edge and roofing sealant 👍
I was cleaning my gutters the other day and realized i dont have dripedge. My shingles overhang a couple inches over top of my gutters. Man, i never noticed it before. I just had a roof put on about 5 years ago. Why those fools wouldnt have said anything or installed some. I guess i know what im doing today.🤦♂️hopefully i dont have any damage. I wonder if my homeowners insurance would cover that?!😬
Yes they should have put new drip edge with the new roof especially if it was a complete tear off and re roof. Hope you get issue sorted 👍 Good luck
Looks to me like all drip edge is not the same. Some are prone to water running down and back to the lower rear which could be an issue if the rear of the gutter is not positioned up and behind it. Some however appear to be made such that water can not run back but is forced to fall off the front edge, into the gutter.
Drip Edge first then ice and water. Or ice x water then Drip Edge
Drip edge always goes down first 👍🏻
Where are you located Johnny? Is your expertise for hire?
@@scarletstewart3591 I'm in Central Coast California. Usually just work for family, friends and referrals
I’ve been looking for this info for a while now, and you’re the only one to explain how to retrofit a drip edge. I knew I needed this because Tommy at This Old House is obsessed with drip edges.
th-cam.com/video/sDTCTbyyg1s/w-d-xo.html
If you want to capitalize on that, you could also explain how to fix or replace improperly installed drip edges. Additionally, I’m pretty sure his advice regarding gutters is based on snowy New England. It helps for you to explain how it’s different in warm areas.
Thanks Alex! Haha you're right abouy ole Tommy. He's always going off about improperly installed drip edge haha 🤣👍🏻