Good thing you caught that before the edges of your roof plywood and or facia boards begin to rot. Like you, I worked on roofing jobs as a grunt 35 years ago. My boss was a general contractor, and I'm glad he always did the right thing by not taking short cuts on jobs. I like how you explained water fusion that it can and will run underneath the shingle edge. I also like the way you put the drip edge 'into' the gutter, not behind it. Again, water will stick to the surface it is already on and go behind the gutter if it's installed that way. If your facia is covered with aluminum, then the only problems would be the drips accumulating on the 1" fold underneath to hold the soffit panels in place. I see that all the time.... water drops hanging on the bottom of the facia and gutter. It is also correct to gently bend the drip edge out a little bit so water that drips from it is caught in the gutter. Nice video!
In the first place, they didn't leave you ANY overhang of the shingle. With adequate overhang, you might have been alright, and in addition could have caulked it to be double sure. But like you, even though I have adequate shingle overhang, I am also caulking and installing drip edge (3") but I'm having to work around those hangers. I'm using drip edge from HD, but it looks more like "gable rake" (some call it gutter apron) that you can get from the roofing supply house. My house was built with 1x6 fascia and then a 1x4 wood drip edge over that. Because the gutters won't hang properly with that drip edge, I took it off and replaced it with another 1x6, which still left me with enough overhang left by good roofers.
Shouldn’t you install the drip edge onto the bare wood so the paper, starter row, and top shingle is over the nail holes? And when next time they repair roof it won’t rip it off?
Yes, under normal circumstances, the first thing down should be the drip edge. With the tar paper, starter row and shingles over top. With water flowing downhill, we don't want it to get caught underneath anything. In this case, I got the drip edge under the shingles, the tar paper was in from the edge a bit, so I couldn't get it under that. I didn't have much choice but to nail it through the underlayer of shingles as I couldn't pry them up enough without tearing them, or removing them completely. Hopefully the added tar will help waterproof it enough.
Do you have any suggestions on what to do for a drip edge that is over the back of the gutter, but the grade of the gutter results in half of the gutter being lower than the drip edge and resulting in dripa between gutter and fascia?
Is it possible to bend the drip edge outwards so that it's bottom edge will drip into the gutter? I'm actually having a similar problem at a roof intersection location on my house. I keep getting a drip between the gutter and the fascia. I haven't been able to fix it yet.
@thewrighthandyman8139 I have agutter specialist coming this week. He says judging on the satellite view, the run is too long for a basic drip edge. He is saying he will have to install what is called a gutter guard to make it work properly.
@@thewrighthandyman8139 I am not a contractor nor know much about gutters but, I had a gutter company here yesterday and we talked about how we had a 36 foot long run and the drip edge is not in the gutter correctly leading to the downspout. He suggested possibly putting in another downspout or they could possibly rivet on a piece where the gutter is too low thus making an extension and get the water correctly into the gutter.
I hadn't heard of gutter apron before, mind you I did roofing over 30 years ago and was just a grunt. However, after looking it up, it does look like the preferred method although gutter apron and drip edge are very similar and both can be used (from what I've read).
The insurance company did not hire the roofer… You did. Insurance companies do not hire roofers for policyholders. It is up to you to do your own research.
@truepatriot111 this roofer was the preferred and recommended contractor by the insurance company. I assumed that a company that is preferred by an insurance company would be half decent, my mistake. Most likely, the insurance company recommends the cheapest contractor which is why they were cutting corners. I don't use insurance company recommendations anymore.
Good thing you caught that before the edges of your roof plywood and or facia boards begin to rot. Like you, I worked on roofing jobs as a grunt 35 years ago. My boss was a general contractor, and I'm glad he always did the right thing by not taking short cuts on jobs.
I like how you explained water fusion that it can and will run underneath the shingle edge. I also like the way you put the drip edge 'into' the gutter, not behind it. Again, water will stick to the surface it is already on and go behind the gutter if it's installed that way. If your facia is covered with aluminum, then the only problems would be the drips accumulating on the 1" fold underneath to hold the soffit panels in place. I see that all the time.... water drops hanging on the bottom of the facia and gutter. It is also correct to gently bend the drip edge out a little bit so water that drips from it is caught in the gutter.
Nice video!
Thanks! I'll be sure to not use the insurance company recommended company next time, or at least check them out better.
In the first place, they didn't leave you ANY overhang of the shingle. With adequate overhang, you might have been alright, and in addition could have caulked it to be double sure. But like you, even though I have adequate shingle overhang, I am also caulking and installing drip edge (3") but I'm having to work around those hangers. I'm using drip edge from HD, but it looks more like "gable rake" (some call it gutter apron) that you can get from the roofing supply house. My house was built with 1x6 fascia and then a 1x4 wood drip edge over that. Because the gutters won't hang properly with that drip edge, I took it off and replaced it with another 1x6, which still left me with enough overhang left by good roofers.
Shouldn’t you install the drip edge onto the bare wood so the paper, starter row, and top shingle is over the nail holes? And when next time they repair roof it won’t rip it off?
Yes, under normal circumstances, the first thing down should be the drip edge. With the tar paper, starter row and shingles over top. With water flowing downhill, we don't want it to get caught underneath anything. In this case, I got the drip edge under the shingles, the tar paper was in from the edge a bit, so I couldn't get it under that. I didn't have much choice but to nail it through the underlayer of shingles as I couldn't pry them up enough without tearing them, or removing them completely. Hopefully the added tar will help waterproof it enough.
Terrible roofer to leave it like that. Next time use a gutter APRON. Drip edge is not for this application.
Do you have any suggestions on what to do for a drip edge that is over the back of the gutter, but the grade of the gutter results in half of the gutter being lower than the drip edge and resulting in dripa between gutter and fascia?
Is it possible to bend the drip edge outwards so that it's bottom edge will drip into the gutter? I'm actually having a similar problem at a roof intersection location on my house. I keep getting a drip between the gutter and the fascia. I haven't been able to fix it yet.
@thewrighthandyman8139 I have agutter specialist coming this week. He says judging on the satellite view, the run is too long for a basic drip edge. He is saying he will have to install what is called a gutter guard to make it work properly.
@@MP57719 Interesting, I have never worked with anything like that. Let me know if it works.
@@thewrighthandyman8139 I am not a contractor nor know much about gutters but, I had a gutter company here yesterday and we talked about how we had a 36 foot long run and the drip edge is not in the gutter correctly leading to the downspout. He suggested possibly putting in another downspout or they could possibly rivet on a piece where the gutter is too low thus making an extension and get the water correctly into the gutter.
@@sony1998 Thanks for letting me know, I'm not a gutter expert either.
You don't need drip edge. Your supposed to have gutter apron there.
I hadn't heard of gutter apron before, mind you I did roofing over 30 years ago and was just a grunt. However, after looking it up, it does look like the preferred method although gutter apron and drip edge are very similar and both can be used (from what I've read).
@@thewrighthandyman8139sorry to say your roofers were correct and you didn't need drip edge there using both causes a double barrier.
@@Alex-xh5dg I'm not sure I follow. Using both of what causes a double barrier how?
The insurance company did not hire the roofer… You did. Insurance companies do not hire roofers for policyholders. It is up to you to do your own research.
@truepatriot111 this roofer was the preferred and recommended contractor by the insurance company. I assumed that a company that is preferred by an insurance company would be half decent, my mistake. Most likely, the insurance company recommends the cheapest contractor which is why they were cutting corners. I don't use insurance company recommendations anymore.