Love that you talked about the left hand and right hand aviator snips. You are the first I have found to mention them. In my experience having them and knowing when and how to use them is so much easier, a huge time saver and provides a much better end result to the cut.
@@davehaggerty3405 In this video he could have easily walked to the other side but that's not always the case. I've used both right/left handed snips... it's good info to share for those who don't know
I did exactly that (insert one length into the next) for the joint and agree - It works perfectly and hasn't leaked in 12 years. Those stupid joint things always leak eventually so I'd NEVER recommend them. I used self-tapping panhead screws since I didn't have a rivet tool. Also your downspout is 100x better than the downspout fitting from the store.
Your vids are the best in the business for noobs like me. I haven't owned a home 14 years, and that was new construction and didn't live there long enough to worry about too many repairs. I am currently in the process of buying a late 1920's home that will of course need some attention. Mostly plumbing. The guidance you offer gives me some confidence! I can turn a wrench on cars and trucks, but pounding nails is not one of my strong points lol
Thank you so much for the clear explanation. I am now working on installing these myself and I know with your videos and explanations I can complete the job the correct way.
There's a company in my area that does seamless gutters (not installed) very affordably. It was actually cheaper than the big box stores and higher quality. Also, a regular miter saw is the easiest way to cut gutters that I found.
I’ll second this. They’ll run them as long as you want, and I’ve found them to be the exact same price as sections store-bought. I had a 66’ run formed, and the 2 guys even helped me carry it around to the back and set it on the ground right in front of where it was being hung.
So i do power washing and soft washing and window repair professionally. Really wish I had seen this vid but I followed the parts list and directions. The seam joiner is a pain in the butt to get to fit properly. Took forever to rivit together and the look of your finished product is much better. And I will be adjusting the rest of my gutters to what you did as I think the seal is better with your process
Great guide, thanks! For longer runs one man show, attaching both ends first may lead to bowing in the middle as raising the sag in the middle will be pushing against the fixed ends when lifted.
Wish I'd seen this video 25+ years ago before I put on our two story addition. 150 ish ft of gutter & every seam is a perpetual leak problem. Also fastened using traditional nail & tube spacer along the top of the gutter & shall I say they haven't all held tightly.
Excellent video! Thank you! Helps me out a lot when it comes to connecting the two sections together. Never thought of snipping off that little top part. I’m just learning. Thanks for posting such great details! 👍
One thing I prefer is to pre-drill for the rivets before I add the seam sealant, which I find makes alignment easier and, minor, keeps my drill bit cleaner.
@@seeqr9 correct, pre means before. Pre drill therefore means drilling before drilling. Which is stupid. Just say drilling a pilot hole because THAT IS WHAT IS BEING DONE. Not drilling before you drill.
@@alanyoder7629 it doesn’t mean “drilling before drilling” that would be “pre drilling drilling”.. “pre drilling” just means “drilling before”… BEFORE something,… before riveting, before painting, before sanding, before assembly, etc. before anything. When you get a product that already has holes in it you can say “they drilled it before they sent it to me” or you can say “it came pre drilled”. Pilot holes are a specific type of pre drilling, that is, a hole specifically for a screw. All pilot holes are pre drilled holes, not all pre drilled holes are pilot holes.
That is an excellent idea. In my situation, leaving the 1x3 in place permanently may be even better. Think I'll prime and paint that 1x3 before I begin. Thank You.
I had a garage built a few years ago and had an installer do the work. 20” runs. The one thing that he did was to install 6” downspouts. He said that this way you have less of a problem with clogged downspouts. They don’t look out of place on the building.
following your advice today. i have two pieces.. ones a short one and one is fairly long. i will try this on the smaller section first. very clear video.... i noticed you painted your lower downspout bracket,, you should mention that so it looks nicer... nice detail anyway. (went to paint them, realize they already were sooo ....nevermind lol). i was unable to install this by myself. i did not take into consideration my ladders were not tall enough...so i got it all ready and will have help to install next time. but the rest of it went fine.
I had an idea as I was watching you set one end of the gutter on the ladder farthest from you @12:06 to mount the end you were holding; you could move that farthest ladder closer to you to take that weight off the center of the gutter while you’re mounting the first end. No sag on the gutter and less pressure.
Thanks for this video. In a world where inflation has made services so expensive, you're doing a real service by taking the time to make videos. A few comments for those doing this job: Do NOT allow that gutter seam paste to get on your skin. It will absorb into your body and is carcinogenic and can cause reproductive problems. Wear nitrile gloves. That stuff is nasty. (I prefer using silicone) When working with gutters (beyond applying sealant), wear good gloves. Big box stores sell aluminum gutters in such a thin gauge that you can easily get cut. As many have commented, the backside of the gutter should go under the flashing. An alternative to using rivets is self taping gutter screws. A benefit of screws is that they can be easily removed.
This is exactly how I did my gutters about 4 years ago. They were working fine til we got baseball size hail and had everything just replaced with seamless gutters professionally installed.
I am living in a house where we have gutters that are joined with slip joints in some of the gutter placements, and one of them is leaking real bad front-of-house. It also looks like it's sagging there, so the water's pitching towards it instead of the downspout. I have no doubt the gutters will need replacements since they are not only old, but if they are not sloped right, the joints will leak water out.
Hey Scott - Enjoyed the video; interesting stuff! A thought: maybe next time (or as an addition?) show putting the end caps on using both the rivet gun AND the crimping tool?
Hello Scott, next time you do a gutter video, can you provide close up video shots of what you're doing between the 10:00 to 11:00 timestamps? Totally understand the challenge of making a video by yourself. More importantly, if you have the opportunity can you do a gutter video for a bay window? Those cuts and seams are a headache. Thanks bud!
I just started a new job as a Gutter Installer, Question: You said a half inch drop every 10 feet in level from high side to low side, isn't the standard usually a half inch drop every 4 feet? Thanks in advance, Awesome tutorial!
I'm installing aluminum gutters on my 12' x 10' shed. This is one of the best videos on that project I have found. What size rivets are best for the gutters?
This was encouraging, Scott. You did all of it by yourself, so I may be able to, too, just not as fast as you. I got a quote to have it done (seamless gutters and maybe debris guards), front and back, and even with Senior and Veteran discounts, I would not pay that much. I told him, I want it, but I don't need it. He understood. I have all the tools, except the crimpers, and two heights of ladders; 8' and 6', plus an extension ladder for getting on the roof. I would have thought the downspout would be secured more than in just one place, and rather high in this case. Is there a reason not to secure it in more places, maybe 3? The middle and lower, too? That could be especially helpful for the directional pieces, when they're needed. My house is one story, bricked on a slab, no basement or crawlspace, so I won't need them, but may want (or need) to direct the flow. The rain just falls off the roof now, but I never considered slab damage. Is that a thing? Thanks, Scott.
I just did my own gutters with those gutter hangers and I absolutely hate them.. I hung my own gutters over 22 years ago on one of my houses and the gutters are still in working condition and those were with the old tube and nail hangers and that was so much easier.
I need to install gutters on my home but the front door would hit the gutters if installed. Its about an 8" section I would need to avoid. I was looking for any suggestions you would have to get around it. I thought maybe something I could put, like a triangle shaped piece of metal that would divert the rain water to the left and to the right of where I need there to be no gutters. So by capping off the gutters and leaving that 8" section with no gutter I believe if I'm able to divert the water into the left and right side of the door opening that should work.
Thank you! Great video and instruction. I put my own gutters up just a few weeks ago and I'm having issues with water dripping behind the gutter (between the facia board and the gutter. I see you have a very low shingle overhand like me. I was about to move my gutters up to right under the shingles, which would mean screwing the brackets into the roof flashing, but i see you didn't do that. I started right at the bottom of the flashing like you did. How do I handle the leakage behind the gutter?
I have that same drip edge, but on a FLAT roof. Water would definitely run behind the mounted gutter. I am thinking about purchasing a roll of aluminum flashing, sticking the top edge of the flashing up behind the drip edge with the bottom edge of the roll flashing extending slightly down into the gutter run. I would likely need to cut the roll flashing to a slight taper to accommodate the pitch of the gutter run. In a comment above, slydog7131 suggests clamping a 1x3 to the fascia to accurately support the gutter while installing. I may just do the same, only permanently installing the 1x3, or similar. Would also need to nip the flashing where it goes over the hanger screws or brackets. What do you think of this idea?
@@williamreynolds7194 I did just that...installed some Z-flashing to prevent the water dripping behind the gutter. I have a low-sloped roof and the surface tension of the rain water allowed it to grab the underside of the shingles. The z-flashing was easy to install, cheap, and fixed the issue.
EXCELLENT video. I have looked @ so many and this is by far the best. This is my first rain gutter that I am installing and I feel as though this vid is setting me up for success. THANKYOU!!!! Question, I do not own a rivet gun, can I use #8 x 1/2' gutter screws and then put gutter seam sealant on them?
Just confirming, gutters are not supposed to be behind the drip edge? Mine are and I’m not too certain if that’s what is giving my roof issues on the soffit??
@@tretre1692 any time there is an exposed upper edge, water can go on both sides of it. so in wet regions, every effort is made to never have an exposed upper edge, and nobody in their right mind relies on adhesives to stop water. everything is overlapped, so when water gets in, the overlap encourages it to find its way back out.
I have two gutters coming together with this same joint connection on the house ,that have being installed on the home ,that leaks ,how can I repair this? 😎your videos are every clear,I am a newbie .
I loved your video ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.♥ l saw how you explained everything clearly and even gave numbers/ measurements for what you were doing! Thank you for a truly great video!♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥from Vancouver Canada
@EverydayHomeRepairs Aren't you supposed to have the gutter go behind the drip edge? On some other videos there was a bunch of guys saying that. Any thoughts?
Here are the ones I used for this project www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/gutters-accessories/gutter-fittings/spectra-metals-1-8-diameter-x-3-8-aluminum-gutter-pop-rivet-100-pack/prrtw/p-1444443284249-c-1492703914555.htm
Used your expertise on my own jobs before but why do you fit the gutter about an inch below the drip edge? Rain will surely get in that gap and run down the facia behind the gutter. Defeats the object unless I'm missing something.
Hi dear! Your video is great! May I ask do you do that for someone? I need gutters for my home. I would like you can help me. Thank you for your sharing your video to everyone!
Behind the gutters on the fascia board side? Just want to make sure one of your ends isn’t against a wall where the water is getting behind the end cap.
@ndewingful you can buy rolls of thin aluminum in different widths. Slide it up under the drip edge and have it hang down into the gutters. Secure it with self tapping screws. Matching colour.
i wish i could use a simple A ladder to reach my gutter. is it safe to rest a ladder against a gutter in order to get up to reach it? my gutter is sagging and not sure why, i think i just need to simply add some reinforcement screws but i dont know the best way to get up to it. its about15 feet off the ground
Love that you talked about the left hand and right hand aviator snips. You are the first I have found to mention them. In my experience having them and knowing when and how to use them is so much easier, a huge time saver and provides a much better end result to the cut.
He could have just walked to the other side.
@@davehaggerty3405 Please explain?
@@eddyvideostar cutting from the other side would let you use the same snips.
@@davehaggerty3405 Very good.
@@davehaggerty3405 In this video he could have easily walked to the other side but that's not always the case. I've used both right/left handed snips... it's good info to share for those who don't know
I did exactly that (insert one length into the next) for the joint and agree - It works perfectly and hasn't leaked in 12 years. Those stupid joint things always leak eventually so I'd NEVER recommend them. I used self-tapping panhead screws since I didn't have a rivet tool. Also your downspout is 100x better than the downspout fitting from the store.
I admire people like him with manual skills. People in this type of business are smart.
You could do it too. Learn little by little, project by project. Have a good day!
Dear Susan, *Most* are. Hopefully, all, at least, are equipped.
thank you. I just started my first gutter job today, and you answered numerous questions. thank you for being so thorough.
Your vids are the best in the business for noobs like me. I haven't owned a home 14 years, and that was new construction and didn't live there long enough to worry about too many repairs. I am currently in the process of buying a late 1920's home that will of course need some attention. Mostly plumbing. The guidance you offer gives me some confidence! I can turn a wrench on cars and trucks, but pounding nails is not one of my strong points lol
I really like the overlap and then pop rivet idea for the seams.
you still have to apply some gasget or sealant to make sure there are no leak
I really like how you explained everything clearly and even gave numbers/ measurements for what you were doing! Thank you for a truly great video!
I have construction experience but never installed gutters. I followed this guide and it worked like a charm! Thanks!
Fender, Really?
Thank you so much for the clear explanation. I am now working on installing these myself and I know with your videos and explanations I can complete the job the correct way.
This was a great tutorial! You made sure to explain everything in great detail and didn't leave anything out. Well done.
There's a company in my area that does seamless gutters (not installed) very affordably. It was actually cheaper than the big box stores and higher quality. Also, a regular miter saw is the easiest way to cut gutters that I found.
😢
I’ll second this. They’ll run them as long as you want, and I’ve found them to be the exact same price as sections store-bought. I had a 66’ run formed, and the 2 guys even helped me carry it around to the back and set it on the ground right in front of where it was being hung.
@jimmypautz can you share the company? I'm trying to see if we have one here in SoCal
@danervin2530 can you share company name please? I'll check if we have one here at SoCal. Thanks
@@prxncxssr0sx I'm in Wisconsin, but the business I used is called The Gutter Company.
PERFECT VIDEO! Thank you! Easy to follow for my son who will be applying your techniques this week. (with a little motherly guidance, of course!)
So i do power washing and soft washing and window repair professionally. Really wish I had seen this vid but I followed the parts list and directions. The seam joiner is a pain in the butt to get to fit properly. Took forever to rivit together and the look of your finished product is much better. And I will be adjusting the rest of my gutters to what you did as I think the seal is better with your process
Great guide, thanks! For longer runs one man show, attaching both ends first may lead to bowing in the middle as raising the sag in the middle will be pushing against the fixed ends when lifted.
Good point 👍
So what is your suggestion? What is the lesser of two evils? GREAT point though. I am embarking on my first gutter install, wish me luck.
Your timing is perfect... I just tore off all of our gutters and I'm about to install new ones. Thank you!
Excellent video. Good instructor very informative and well spoken
Wish I'd seen this video 25+ years ago before I put on our two story addition. 150 ish ft of gutter & every seam is a perpetual leak problem. Also fastened using traditional nail & tube spacer along the top of the gutter & shall I say they haven't all held tightly.
Excellent video! Thank you! Helps me out a lot when it comes to connecting the two sections together. Never thought of snipping off that little top part. I’m just learning. Thanks for posting such great details! 👍
You are my go-to guy for home repair advice. Thanks bro!
The whole installation make a lot of sense. Great work and thank you for sharing
I love your videos, you make it so easy to replicate. I have used your videos to do a couple projects at home.
One thing I prefer is to pre-drill for the rivets before I add the seam sealant, which I find makes alignment easier and, minor, keeps my drill bit cleaner.
There is no such thing as pre drilling. Your terminology says you are drilling before you drill. You aren’t . You are drilling pilot holes.
@@alanyoder7629”pre” means “before”. “Pilot holes” are for screws, not rivets. He simply drilled holes and he drilled them BEFORE sealing.
@@seeqr9 correct, pre means before. Pre drill therefore means drilling before drilling. Which is stupid. Just say drilling a pilot hole because THAT IS WHAT IS BEING DONE. Not drilling before you drill.
@@alanyoder7629 it doesn’t mean “drilling before drilling” that would be “pre drilling drilling”..
“pre drilling” just means “drilling before”… BEFORE something,… before riveting, before painting, before sanding, before assembly, etc. before anything.
When you get a product that already has holes in it you can say “they drilled it before they sent it to me” or you can say “it came pre drilled”.
Pilot holes are a specific type of pre drilling, that is, a hole specifically for a screw.
All pilot holes are pre drilled holes, not all pre drilled holes are pilot holes.
@@seeqr9 you are wrong . Just give up trying to justify a stupid and totally incorrect phrase.
To avoid the swale when putting the gutter on, you could try temporarily clamping a 1x3 on the front of the gutter to support it.
That is an excellent idea. In my situation, leaving the 1x3 in place permanently may be even better. Think I'll prime and paint that 1x3 before I begin. Thank You.
Great video, cleared up a lot of questions for my project.
I had a garage built a few years ago and had an installer do the work. 20” runs. The one thing that he did was to install 6” downspouts. He said that this way you have less of a problem with clogged downspouts. They don’t look out of place on the building.
That can be a nice upgrade. Thanks for the feedback!
I really enjoy your videos. I always learn something new. You are as good or better than the guys at THIS OLD HOUSE.
piece of cake with this man keep making good content , leaning lot from you.
Excellent video! Very easy to understand instruction and demonstration. Thank you.
following your advice today. i have two pieces.. ones a short one and one is fairly long. i will try this on the smaller section first. very clear video.... i noticed you painted your lower downspout bracket,, you should mention that so it looks nicer... nice detail anyway. (went to paint them, realize they already were sooo ....nevermind lol). i was unable to install this by myself. i did not take into consideration my ladders were not tall enough...so i got it all ready and will have help to install next time. but the rest of it went fine.
I had an idea as I was watching you set one end of the gutter on the ladder farthest from you @12:06 to mount the end you were holding; you could move that farthest ladder closer to you to take that weight off the center of the gutter while you’re mounting the first end. No sag on the gutter and less pressure.
Thanks for this video. In a world where inflation has made services so expensive, you're doing a real service by taking the time to make videos. A few comments for those doing this job: Do NOT allow that gutter seam paste to get on your skin. It will absorb into your body and is carcinogenic and can cause reproductive problems. Wear nitrile gloves. That stuff is nasty. (I prefer using silicone) When working with gutters (beyond applying sealant), wear good gloves. Big box stores sell aluminum gutters in such a thin gauge that you can easily get cut. As many have commented, the backside of the gutter should go under the flashing. An alternative to using rivets is self taping gutter screws. A benefit of screws is that they can be easily removed.
This is exactly how I did my gutters about 4 years ago. They were working fine til we got baseball size hail and had everything just replaced with seamless gutters professionally installed.
I am living in a house where we have gutters that are joined with slip joints in some of the gutter placements, and one of them is leaking real bad front-of-house. It also looks like it's sagging there, so the water's pitching towards it instead of the downspout.
I have no doubt the gutters will need replacements since they are not only old, but if they are not sloped right, the joints will leak water out.
Hey Scott - Enjoyed the video; interesting stuff! A thought: maybe next time (or as an addition?) show putting the end caps on using both the rivet gun AND the crimping tool?
What side of the drip edge did you put the gutter in behind it or inside the gutter?
Hello Scott, next time you do a gutter video, can you provide close up video shots of what you're doing between the 10:00 to 11:00 timestamps? Totally understand the challenge of making a video by yourself. More importantly, if you have the opportunity can you do a gutter video for a bay window? Those cuts and seams are a headache. Thanks bud!
Thanks for the feedback! The bay window would make for a great video 👍
You got such a small drip edge and the gutter is not behind the drip edge. How is that working for you? Any leaks?
This video was extremely helpful. Thanks for posting!
Simply amazing! Thank you so much!
Great information! Good show! Amazing presenter too!
Thanks so much 👊
I just started a new job as a Gutter Installer,
Question: You said a half inch drop every 10 feet in level from high side to low side, isn't the standard usually a half inch drop every 4 feet?
Thanks in advance,
Awesome tutorial!
A 1/2 inch drop every 4 feet would be 2 1/2 inches at 20 feet which would look ridiculous, on a 60 foot run you could be out of fascia!
I have a 60 foot run with two downspouts, one on each end. I guess I should Vee the run in the middle?
I'm installing aluminum gutters on my 12' x 10' shed. This is one of the best videos on that project I have found. What size rivets are best for the gutters?
This was encouraging, Scott. You did all of it by yourself, so I may be able to, too, just not as fast as you. I got a quote to have it done (seamless gutters and maybe debris guards), front and back, and even with Senior and Veteran discounts, I would not pay that much. I told him, I want it, but I don't need it. He understood. I have all the tools, except the crimpers, and two heights of ladders; 8' and 6', plus an extension ladder for getting on the roof. I would have thought the downspout would be secured more than in just one place, and rather high in this case. Is there a reason not to secure it in more places, maybe 3? The middle and lower, too? That could be especially helpful for the directional pieces, when they're needed. My house is one story, bricked on a slab, no basement or crawlspace, so I won't need them, but may want (or need) to direct the flow. The rain just falls off the roof now, but I never considered slab damage. Is that a thing? Thanks, Scott.
I just did my own gutters with those gutter hangers and I absolutely hate them.. I hung my own gutters over 22 years ago on one of my houses and the gutters are still in working condition and those were with the old tube and nail hangers and that was so much easier.
Those are some of the absolute worst brackets on the market...
I always use stainless screws in gutters so that rust doesn’t run down the gutters later on!
I need to install gutters on my home but the front door would hit the gutters if installed. Its about an 8" section I would need to avoid. I was looking for any suggestions you would have to get around it. I thought maybe something I could put, like a triangle shaped piece of metal that would divert the rain water to the left and to the right of where I need there to be no gutters. So by capping off the gutters and leaving that 8" section with no gutter I believe if I'm able to divert the water into the left and right side of the door opening that should work.
Thank you! Great video and instruction. I put my own gutters up just a few weeks ago and I'm having issues with water dripping behind the gutter (between the facia board and the gutter. I see you have a very low shingle overhand like me. I was about to move my gutters up to right under the shingles, which would mean screwing the brackets into the roof flashing, but i see you didn't do that. I started right at the bottom of the flashing like you did. How do I handle the leakage behind the gutter?
I have that same drip edge, but on a FLAT roof. Water would definitely run behind the mounted gutter. I am thinking about purchasing a roll of aluminum flashing, sticking the top edge of the flashing up behind the drip edge with the bottom edge of the roll flashing extending slightly down into the gutter run. I would likely need to cut the roll flashing to a slight taper to accommodate the pitch of the gutter run. In a comment above, slydog7131 suggests clamping a 1x3 to the fascia to accurately support the gutter while installing. I may just do the same, only permanently installing the 1x3, or similar. Would also need to nip the flashing where it goes over the hanger screws or brackets. What do you think of this idea?
@@williamreynolds7194 I did just that...installed some Z-flashing to prevent the water dripping behind the gutter. I have a low-sloped roof and the surface tension of the rain water allowed it to grab the underside of the shingles. The z-flashing was easy to install, cheap, and fixed the issue.
EXCELLENT video. I have looked @ so many and this is by far the best. This is my first rain gutter that I am installing and I feel as though this vid is setting me up for success. THANKYOU!!!! Question, I do not own a rivet gun, can I use #8 x 1/2' gutter screws and then put gutter seam sealant on them?
Wish I watched you first. Thanks for the great tips!
Just confirming, gutters are not supposed to be behind the drip edge? Mine are and I’m not too certain if that’s what is giving my roof issues on the soffit??
I prefer to set gutters lower than the drip edge. My high side was about 1/4” below the lowest portion of the drip edge.
if the drip edge is behind the gutter, that gives the water a way to go between the gutter and the fascia.
@@kenbrown2808 ohh that makes sense, because water follows tension right?
@@tretre1692 any time there is an exposed upper edge, water can go on both sides of it. so in wet regions, every effort is made to never have an exposed upper edge, and nobody in their right mind relies on adhesives to stop water. everything is overlapped, so when water gets in, the overlap encourages it to find its way back out.
I have two gutters coming together with this same joint connection on the house ,that have being installed on the home ,that leaks ,how can I repair this? 😎your videos are every clear,I am a newbie .
Great video thank you. An extendable ladder with arms would have been useful also.
Love this channel ☺️ putting gutters on a shed this weekend
Best of luck with your project 🙌
Dear Nicola 3060, Prepare the fascia first.
Excellent explanations!!!!
I noticed you didn’t talk about the drip edge hanging over into the gutter.
Decent job, next time put the support ladder in the middle to prevent the bowing. Move your standing ladder operationally from one end to the other.
In snow country, every 2' for eavestrough hangers isn't enough. Do 16" or even more.
Excellent video. Thanks.
Awesome. Better instructions than this old house. Especially the 1 man install part.👍👍
Those bags are the shit !
Great video, thank you! 🙏
Excellent!!!
Great job this was very informative thank you
Good job, however should the gutters be slightly tilted towards the downspout to allow the water to flow and drained?
He mentioned that, starting at around the 10:30 mark in the video.
I see trees - lots of trees. You have lots of trees nearby? You need oversized gutters!! Seamless gutters are usually made from a heavier gauge metal.
He just saved me a few hundred on just one gutter I need replaced. Thanks!
Nice 🙌
Great video. Thank you.
Nice vid, goood explanation. How far off the ground do you leave the bottom elbow of the downspout?
What are your thoughts on rain chains?
Благодарю уважаемый за вдохновение
THANK YOU!
Great video. What kind of impact driver did you use?
What rivet dimensions did you use ? Which is best, aluminium or galvanized steel gutters ? Thanks !!
Excellent
excellent video thanks
How many brackets do you need? Like for the 27' 8" gutter, what was your bracket spacing?
I think he said every 2 feet, but putting one in each joist if you can find em is even better
Yes, seamless FTW!
Great job.
I loved your video ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.♥
l saw how you explained everything clearly and even gave numbers/ measurements for what you were doing! Thank you for a truly great video!♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥from Vancouver Canada
Happy to help!
Thank you for the video.
You bet!
@EverydayHomeRepairs Aren't you supposed to have the gutter go behind the drip edge? On some other videos there was a bunch of guys saying that. Any thoughts?
The rivet tool is a great jdea
What kind of screws did you use to secure the down spout brackets into the house sidings?
Was there a reason not to use rivets from the gutter drop to that first elbow?
Hello, Is it possible to fix the leak of down spout connect to the gutter drain. The leak is at the top of the spout connecting to the gutter drain.
Did you already have a drip edge installed and is that typically installed by roofers or people who do gutters?
I had no idea tin snips were color coded, I thought it was just a stylistic thing 😮
What size rivits are you using 1/8 dia X 3/16 long?
Here are the ones I used for this project www.menards.com/main/building-materials/roofing-soffits-gutters/gutters-accessories/gutter-fittings/spectra-metals-1-8-diameter-x-3-8-aluminum-gutter-pop-rivet-100-pack/prrtw/p-1444443284249-c-1492703914555.htm
Perfect timing for my project!
Beautiful
Used your expertise on my own jobs before but why do you fit the gutter about an inch below the drip edge? Rain will surely get in that gap and run down the facia behind the gutter. Defeats the object unless I'm missing something.
Scott, you reference a couple videos for runoff, but no links on screen or in the video... is that forthcoming?
Hi dear! Your video is great! May I ask do you do that for someone? I need gutters for my home. I would like you can help me. Thank you for your sharing your video to everyone!
what size rivet do you use, Thanks
Is it necessary to tuck the top backside of the gutter underneath the drip edge?
Good video
Questions: No rivets in bottom of gutter on your seams? Why only 3 rivets on back of gutter end seam? ty
So... What should I do if water is getting *behind* a gutter I just installed?
Behind the gutters on the fascia board side? Just want to make sure one of your ends isn’t against a wall where the water is getting behind the end cap.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs right on the fascia side. Can I caulk the gaps it's coming through or do I need a tighter mounting system?
It may be that your drip edge is too close to the fascia.
@ndewingful you can buy rolls of thin aluminum in different widths. Slide it up under the drip edge and have it hang down into the gutters. Secure it with self tapping screws. Matching colour.
@@keithrenaud3380 That is what I was thinking. Like a roll of 6" wide aluminum flashing?
i wish i could use a simple A ladder to reach my gutter. is it safe to rest a ladder against a gutter in order to get up to reach it? my gutter is sagging and not sure why, i think i just need to simply add some reinforcement screws but i dont know the best way to get up to it. its about15 feet off the ground
Use bullhorn/ladder stand off attachment so your resting on the roof and not the gutter.
Is there a link for the rivet tool?