Great video, excellent job explaining the steps and demonstrating dialing in an off center piece in a lathe. I really learned a lot watching this one. Videos like this really help us hobbyist trying to learn new tricks. Thank you
It's been a year and I'm looking at this video once again before I set up my lathe chuck for a similar project. I can't imagine why you haven't had any more comments on this. You did a great job explaining every step and precaution needed to machine safely. Thanks so much.
Excellent. You mentioned adding weights in case of vibration. I guess I'll have to look up videos that show that, but your video shows the depth of knowledge machinists have from experience. Truly remarkable. I have 3 college degrees and I greatly admire the acumen level displayed by so called "blue collar" workers. It definitely rivals people with degrees, as many I know that've gotten through college are dolts.
You would need a chuck with t-slots cut into it between the jaws. Weights are added to the slots and moved towards/away from center to find balance. I've been fortunate to work with some really gifted people and I've learned a lot. Young people have a lot to teach with technology as an example. I always tell my students "we are all teachers". Thank you for your kind words.
Ever since I took a university course that involved me in using machining tools I've always wanted to work with them again (never had the chance since covid hit). This was one of the unanswered questions I had since my part only required a 3 jaw chuck, I had no idea how to dial in anything that isnt round or off centered. Great informative video!
As a cnc router operator, I appreciate the explanation. A 4 jaw chuck has always intimidated me. Maybe not so much now. Kinda makes me want to go out and buy a lathe.
Great way of doing it , in the toolmaking trade we use a small fixed centre between the rotating centre and the centre drill hole and index off this so it wobbles the same , save making the tapered tool you have made and they are hardened steel and will last forever Nice one same principal , Keep up the good work , Alan
Nice job man, sooner or later I will get a lathe and put my old skills to test again. love turning metal into art and this video is inspiring. thanks for sharing this.
Good to see fella. Not many would think of that but merely put their center in the drilled hole. I was taught this method by an old turner I met in a unit where I worked after getting my old Myford super severn. I made my bar from ground stock. It is the best way. I was trying to tell a newbie to lathe's friend the other day and I said I bet there is a youtube video on it and better than me trying to explain it if you don't know the terms. Then I found this so I'll Link it to him. Thanks for posting.
+Fred196407 Hi Fred, thanks for the note and helping the next generation learn. I too learned tricks like this from an "old timer"...funny, I have become the old timer! Good point about the ground stock.
I'm truly convinced it's kids just being dicks or miserable haters. If you don't like it why comment unless it's something that is really unsafe and could injure someone?
Little trick I use is to chuck up the dead center in the tail stock, lock the stock, and while holding the plate, with the jaws open enough where they don't interfere, introduce pressure with the tail stock until it presses the metal plate against the jaws. You then lightly tighten the jaws, and proceed exactly as you did. The advantage is, it gets you a lot closer to center quicker, making less adjustments to the jaws. Just a time saver.
I've used that same method myself, as well as using two crossed scribe lines for rough work. With a little Dykem and two scribe lines, you can detect center pretty darn close. Good vid.
I normally don't work with square offset pieces like this, but that rod you used to indicate the piece in is something I will definitely store in the back of my mind. Never thought of that.
Nice to watch a video on here without all the music banging out and good content well done will make the tool for my dial indicator to run on good trick
You did that pretty fast! I recently bought a centering microscope that will fit the tailstock or the mill spindle. You video makes me think "why do I need the centering scope for the lathe, after watching this?" But I guess it will stil come in handy on the mill with a rotary table or the dividing head when I have a four chuck on them for milling, boring, drilling odd shaped or eccentric pieces (and that DOES happen from time to time in model engineering, like scale locomotives and such). Thanks!!
Use a lever type dial indicator and adjust hole towards the center by halving the total reading. You can get it very close to true by using the center (light pressure) to hold the block when you start and then bring the jaws in until it touches the block. Then use lever type dial indicator for final setting. Always works and is quick!
great trick, you could do this with most standard dead centers too as most have a center drill hole in the end of the shank from when they were originally ground, no need for a special shaft. thank you for sharing this!
I have used this technique but instead of making a tool I just used the dead center that came with my lathe. The end of the dead center has a center hole from the original grinding. Works great.
I don't about Mike but I really learned from it! I own a 109 series dunlap lathe and want to make a tail stocl locking device that works with a cam actiom, now I know how to set it upst start! thanks.
As a retired toolmaker making moulds for plastic bottles this was done on a daily basis.The parts were halves of moulds usually 4 impression so 4 bores ,each one had to be accurate to .001.I had to clock each part machine the move and so on.The biggest moulds I did the steel blocks were 13"x6"x8" when offset to machine the last bore they needed 25kg of counterbalance
Hi Paul, glad it helped. Some 4-jaw chucks, usually larger, have t-slots in the face. The slots are between the Jaws running towards the center of the chuck. These slots are used to bolt counterweight. Thanks for watching and your note. Bison%204-Jaw%20Independent%20Lathe%20Chuck16%22%20Size%2C%20D1-6%20Spindle%20-%207-853-1636%20%20Four-jaw%20standard%20duty%20independent%20Lathe%20C...
Well done sir. My only difference is that I just use a wiggler in the tailstock to indicate the runout rather than a machined piece. Also measuring the offset to center to start the setup makes things a lot easier. Have an upvote.
Yes. Good one. Did exactly the same thing just yesterday with a heavier n larger plate. How would one counter-balance the the overhang without using a Face Plate ??? Thanks anyway for showing and sharing ATB aRM
In the past I have used a 4-jaw with T-slots between the jaws. It is very convenient to attach a counterweight to. If you can't rig something up I'd recommend low RPM or your suggestion of a face plate. Thank you for sharing!
great video, but some questions. the centre shaft that you made wobbles more near the part than at the tail stock . so the wobbling varies along the length of the centre shaft which means that the accuracy of dialing the center would depend a lot on where your dial plunger tip is on the shaft. is that right? in this video the dial plunger was nearer to the part but you could have gone further to get a more accurate dialing of the part, dont you think so?
+Akshay Vyas Good question, I believe the greater accuracy would come from the dial indicator close to the chuck as that is where the maximum run out is.
@@machiningmoments I'm about to do a large project with a 4 jaw in my lathe. It's a pretty hefty chunk of steel. How does one go about knowing how much weight to put on
@@Foxyjosh Good question. You need a chuck with a way to bolt a counterweight to it. Having t- slots in the face between the jaws makes this easy. Put your lathe in neutral the chuck will rotate to the heavy side...6 o'clock. Add the weight at 12 o'clock. I drill a hole in round stock maybe 3 inch dia. 2- 3 inches long (depending on how heavy your part is) slide it over a t- nut and stud and tighten a nut on the other side. Move the weight towards and away from center until the part will not move in any position in 360 degrees. It should be balanced. Watch your rpm, it is not meant to turn fast. Watch your fingers there is a lot going on with that chuck face. Good luck.
Best to do that with all four jaws reversed if the part allows it or use a spider to support the side of piece that is not resting on the jaws. Great video! Keep up the good work!
+Bob Cartwright If I remember right the issue was the jaws touching each other before it was able to tighten on the material. Thanks for your support, stay warm!
well, could someone ask my question why would you need to put such a piece on a lathe ? there is like a drilling machine or milling one. For what kind of pieces is this needed ?
most drill presses cannot go to a large diameter and if precision is needed, a lathe may be the best option - rather a 'boring' example - for instance, mounting a bearing in a special housing and location.
Yeah what if you needed to bore a hole and tap it say 12 threads per inch. say your hole is 2 inches. Wanna buy a 2'-12 tap? Better have deep pockets.The lathe would be the way to go on something like that.
Great video, excellent job explaining the steps and demonstrating dialing in an off center piece in a lathe. I really learned a lot watching this one. Videos like this really help us hobbyist trying to learn new tricks. Thank you
It was my pleasure, thanks for making time to leave a comment.
It's been a year and I'm looking at this video once again before I set up my lathe chuck for a similar project. I can't imagine why you haven't had any more comments on this. You did a great job explaining every step and precaution needed to machine safely. Thanks so much.
Thanks Paul I'm glad it was helpful. I really appreciate you watching and making time to leave a comment.
Excellent. You mentioned adding weights in case of vibration. I guess I'll have to look up videos that show that, but your video shows the depth of knowledge machinists have from experience. Truly remarkable. I have 3 college degrees and I greatly admire the acumen level displayed by so called "blue collar" workers. It definitely rivals people with degrees, as many I know that've gotten through college are dolts.
You would need a chuck with t-slots cut into it between the jaws. Weights are added to the slots and moved towards/away from center to find balance. I've been fortunate to work with some really gifted people and I've learned a lot. Young people have a lot to teach with technology as an example. I always tell my students "we are all teachers". Thank you for your kind words.
Ever since I took a university course that involved me in using machining tools I've always wanted to work with them again (never had the chance since covid hit). This was one of the unanswered questions I had since my part only required a 3 jaw chuck, I had no idea how to dial in anything that isnt round or off centered. Great informative video!
It's a lot of fun playing in the machine shop. Thanks for watching and leaving a message.
As a cnc router operator, I appreciate the explanation. A 4 jaw chuck has always intimidated me. Maybe not so much now. Kinda makes me want to go out and buy a lathe.
It’s very much appreciated that people actually take the time to make these very educational videos, thanks 🙏.
I do this because of responses like yours, thanks for your message and watching!
I love the simplicity of your explanations. Many thanks
I'm glad you liked it. Thank you for your kind comment.
This is a great way to dial in eccentric pieces! I use the same method! Glad to see your still being the master!
Russell Barnhardt Not really, just sharing what I've learned. How are you? Kids? Great to hear from you Russ!
machiningmoments things are going well! Busy as ever!
Great way of doing it , in the toolmaking trade we use a small fixed centre between the rotating centre and the centre drill hole and index off this so it wobbles the same , save making the tapered tool you have made and they are hardened steel and will last forever
Nice one same principal , Keep up the good work , Alan
+alan manning Hi Alan, a hardened steel tool would be ideal! Thanks for your knowledge and post!
Nice job man, sooner or later I will get a lathe and put my old skills to test again. love turning metal into art and this video is inspiring. thanks for sharing this.
Glad you liked it, thanks for saying so. I hope you are able to get a lathe, machining is fun!
Good to see fella. Not many would think of that but merely put their center in the drilled hole. I was taught this method by an old turner I met in a unit where I worked after getting my old Myford super severn. I made my bar from ground stock. It is the best way. I was trying to tell a newbie to lathe's friend the other day and I said I bet there is a youtube video on it and better than me trying to explain it if you don't know the terms. Then I found this so I'll Link it to him. Thanks for posting.
+Fred196407 Hi Fred, thanks for the note and helping the next generation learn. I too learned tricks like this from an "old timer"...funny, I have become the old timer! Good point about the ground stock.
Why would anybody dislike this video?
I scrolled down to drop a like and was stunned to see 170 or so people had. Great video, thanks :)
Thank you
I'm truly convinced it's kids just being dicks or miserable haters. If you don't like it why comment unless it's something that is really unsafe and could injure someone?
Love the esoteric info that you pro's share. It's amazing and frankly bewildering how hard it is in the workplace to get these kinds of nuggets.
Thank you
Little trick I use is to chuck up the dead center in the tail stock, lock the stock, and while holding the plate, with the jaws open enough where they don't interfere, introduce pressure with the tail stock until it presses the metal plate against the jaws. You then lightly tighten the jaws, and proceed exactly as you did. The advantage is, it gets you a lot closer to center quicker, making less adjustments to the jaws. Just a time saver.
I agree, your way works good.
this method works so well, I don't even bother wasting my time dialing in my part closer
Yes I've used your technic many times, your right often it is close enough! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Why would anyone not use this method which is obvious? The business in the video is ridiculous.
رائعه
Brother, you have one of the best chucks in the world. I envy you!
Thanks, I'm very fortunate to have a good budget.
Very nice demonstration. good content without over editorializing!
Thanks for your kind words and watching.
I've used that same method myself, as well as using two crossed scribe lines for rough work.
With a little Dykem and two scribe lines, you can detect center pretty darn close.
Good vid.
+GrizzlyMtn I've done the same with the lines worked better when my eyes were younger!
Great work! I don't have much experience with machining, no schooling. That center shaft is a great bit of ingenuity.
LilGiantsConstrCo Thank you. Keep working at it, you will get experience!
Brilliant video, I didn't need to know this, I don't even have a lathe but I was hooked! Subscribed
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Love the turned shaft Idea!
Thanks it works well.
Excellent video, I'm still being taught by you I see. Things are also going great up in the great white north, I'll likely see you again in a year!
northernmetalworker Thank you! We all learn from each other, it will be good to see you again. Stay warm!
I normally don't work with square offset pieces like this, but that rod you used to indicate the piece in is something I will definitely store in the back of my mind. Never thought of that.
ABCMAN94 Just a different way of approaching the problem. Thanks for watching.
Nice to watch a video on here without all the music banging out and good content well done will make the tool for my dial indicator to run on good trick
I have a low budget production!
Cool video! I really wondered how this is done. This really helped. Thank you for posting
Glad to help.
thank you for the great video... as someone new to machining i have learned a lot.
It was my pleasure, thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a note. Welcome to machining, you are going to love it!
LOVE THAT TRICK!... Thanks for sharing your expierence!.
Glad to, thanks for posting!
Realy good explanation for centering of square jobs.
Thank you
You did that pretty fast! I recently bought a centering microscope that will fit the tailstock or the mill spindle. You video makes me think "why do I need the centering scope for the lathe, after watching this?" But I guess it will stil come in handy on the mill with a rotary table or the dividing head when I have a four chuck on them for milling, boring, drilling odd shaped or eccentric pieces (and that DOES happen from time to time in model engineering, like scale locomotives and such). Thanks!!
That would be an ideal tool of small parts, very accurate.
you are an expert. thanks
awesome outside the box turning, very educational.
Glad to hear you liked it, thanks.
Knowledge is power, thanks for sharing yours.
Glad to! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Great idea, thanks, I learn something new every day.
Me too! Thanks for taking the time to leave a message.
Use a lever type dial indicator and adjust hole towards the center by halving the total reading. You can get it very close to true by using the center (light pressure) to hold the block when you start and then bring the jaws in until it touches the block. Then use lever type dial indicator for final setting. Always works and is quick!
Thanks for sharing.
Much better than videos whose makers are too shy to say anything. Nice tutorial.
+Tapajara Thank you!
Using the center was a great way to cut your set up time. Thanks for the tip.
Mick Forquer It's a neat trick!
Great video, nice and clear audio and video. Thanks
This is very cool. I'll give it a try in the shop, just for practice and for fun.
Glad you liked it. Slow RPM!
That was helpful and thanks for sharing your experience
My pleasure, thank you for watching.
Well done, nice video!. Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure, thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Thank you... your video is now a homework report that is due tomorrow.. A Mechanical Engineering student, Taif University, Saudi Arabia...
+Abedmajeed Al-Qurashi Well I'm honoured! Thanks for your note and good luck with your homework!
Thank you for sharing, excellent work.
Thank you for watching and making time to post.
Thanks for the video, The turned shaft is a great idea.
My pleasure, thanks for the note.
Thanks you machinig moments.
Thanks.
Nice video, thanks for taking the time.
My pleasure, thank you for taking the time to leave a note.
great trick, you could do this with most standard dead centers too as most have a center drill hole in the end of the shank from when they were originally ground, no need for a special shaft. thank you for sharing this!
+captaingreenbush Another option, thanks for your post!
Many tanks for the video. Good job ;-)
Thank you, appreciate you watching and commenting.
Very cool technique! Thanks for the education!
My pleasure. Thank you for watching and taking time to leave a message.
I have used this technique but instead of making a tool I just used the dead center that came with my lathe. The end of the dead center has a center hole from the original grinding. Works great.
That works great Craig!
You're correct.
Very Nice. Looked easy with that rod you made and turning around 2 of the jaws.
The nice thing with a 4-jaw chuck is you can reverse any jaw or all. It makes a great stop for the back of the plate.
You sir have my respect as a machinist
Thank you
machiningmoments I've done this the hard way too long
I don't know haw to thank you sr you are the master,,,thanks again that was awesome to see good place you
Im happy you found it helpful. Thank you for watching and your note.
wow... that was helpful... thanks guy!
Paul Gdry Glad it helped, thanks for stopping by.
is this anything like what i heard a bison chuck combo scroll use like 3 jaw but odd shaps and reapeat
+Miguel Castaneda I believe it is.
Great video, thanks for the tips!
Thank you
Excellent video and well explained.
Thank you. I appreciate you watching and making time to leave a message.
Excellent, I'll bookmark this.
+just tim Glad it was helpful, thanks for saying so!
so precision , good job
+wael alabrouni Thanks!
I'm still trying to learn how to use my 4-jaw... so thanks for this.
It takes a bit of time but once you have it figured out it is really helpful!
I don't about Mike but I really learned from it! I own a 109 series dunlap lathe and want to make a tail stocl locking device that works with a cam actiom, now I know how to set it upst start! thanks.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for your note.
Great demo, thanks for the video.
cerberus Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to watch it.
Awesome, good work. Great vid.
+Michael St John Thank you!
As a retired toolmaker making moulds for plastic bottles this was done on a daily basis.The parts were halves of moulds usually 4 impression so 4 bores ,each one had to be accurate to .001.I had to clock each part machine the move and so on.The biggest moulds I did the steel blocks were 13"x6"x8" when offset to machine the last bore they needed 25kg of counterbalance
I enjoy watching Toolmakers work, very precise!
Good budget!! Please don't rub it in brother. I'm in pain when I look at such fine equipment and realize I can only dream of owning it. Happy turning.
Sorry :(
Wow, that was very enlightening
Thanks.
To hold cylindrical workpiece which type of jaw may be used ?
A three or four-jaw chuck can be used...or a collet chuck if the cylindrical part is ground.
Excellent work
Thanks, I appreciate you watching.
Great video. Thank you
I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching.
Excellent Video!!! 2 thumbs up!
Thank you for watching.
Wicked smart.
Good stuff.
Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Glad too, thank you for watching and posting.
awesome video!
I'm glad you liked it, thanks for watching.
Just what I needed to know thankyou.
How do you add a counter weight?
Hi Paul, glad it helped. Some 4-jaw chucks, usually larger, have t-slots in the face. The slots are between the Jaws running towards the center of the chuck. These slots are used to bolt counterweight. Thanks for watching and your note. Bison%204-Jaw%20Independent%20Lathe%20Chuck16%22%20Size%2C%20D1-6%20Spindle%20-%207-853-1636%20%20Four-jaw%20standard%20duty%20independent%20Lathe%20C...
Nice helpful video. Handy method to know.
Glad you liked it.
Damn you people for being smarter than me; thanks for the great video.
+Thomas Pate We all have knowledge about something. Thanks for the smile!
Well done sir. My only difference is that I just use a wiggler in the tailstock to indicate the runout rather than a machined piece. Also measuring the offset to center to start the setup makes things a lot easier. Have an upvote.
Your way also works well.
muito bacana sua explicação mano, parabéns...
Obrigado, estou feliz que foi útil.
Very helpful video... For lathe Oprater...
I'm glad it was helpful, thank you for watching.
Thanks, Great stuff.
+Jessie Jess Glad you liked it Jessie.
Great exercise! Thanks!
Thank you for watching and leaving a comment.
Yes. Good one. Did exactly the same thing just yesterday with a heavier n larger plate.
How would one counter-balance the the overhang without using a Face Plate ???
Thanks anyway for showing and sharing
ATB
aRM
In the past I have used a 4-jaw with T-slots between the jaws. It is very convenient to attach a counterweight to. If you can't rig something up I'd recommend low RPM or your suggestion of a face plate. Thank you for sharing!
How would you add counterweights?
Some 4-jaw chucks have t-slots in between the jaws. Insert a t-nut and stud in the slot opposite the heavy side and bolt a weight to it.
I really likes your vídeo because you shouwed How you drill a Square piece in a different Wal.make a vídeo of CNC , hug Brazil
Great tip. Thank you.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you for sending a note and watching!
great video, but some questions. the centre shaft that you made wobbles more near the part than at the tail stock . so the wobbling varies along the length of the centre shaft which means that the accuracy of dialing the center would depend a lot on where your dial plunger tip is on the shaft. is that right? in this video the dial plunger was nearer to the part but you could have gone further to get a more accurate dialing of the part, dont you think so?
+Akshay Vyas Good question, I believe the greater accuracy would come from the dial indicator close to the chuck as that is where the maximum run out is.
So is there any other better method.
+Akshay Vyas There are others...using a milling machine and an edge finder may be easier. Just another option.
That is slick, thanks
imystery man My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Good video, helpful many people 👍
Thank you
Excellent Idea.
Thanks
Good trick i learnt that when doing big wellheads having to put counter weights on fun times
Ah yes, counterweights. It sure helps.
@@machiningmoments I'm about to do a large project with a 4 jaw in my lathe. It's a pretty hefty chunk of steel. How does one go about knowing how much weight to put on
@@Foxyjosh Good question. You need a chuck with a way to bolt a counterweight to it. Having t- slots in the face between the jaws makes this easy. Put your lathe in neutral the chuck will rotate to the heavy side...6 o'clock. Add the weight at 12 o'clock. I drill a hole in round stock maybe 3 inch dia. 2- 3 inches long (depending on how heavy your part is) slide it over a t- nut and stud and tighten a nut on the other side. Move the weight towards and away from center until the part will not move in any position in 360 degrees. It should be balanced. Watch your rpm, it is not meant to turn fast. Watch your fingers there is a lot going on with that chuck face. Good luck.
awesome tips. thanks!
+alex koenig I'm glad it was useful. Nice fish!
Great video Thanks
Best to do that with all four jaws reversed if the part allows it or use a spider to support the side of piece that is not resting on the jaws. Great video! Keep up the good work!
+Bob Cartwright If I remember right the issue was the jaws touching each other before it was able to tighten on the material. Thanks for your support, stay warm!
Great video
Thank you.
So why the soft pieces of material in between jaw and part? To protect part?
Yes, it protects the finish on the part.
machiningmoments uz
useful to teach to my students... tqqq
I'm glad, I teach too.
great video thanks for sharing
SlowEarl1 Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
This is indeed a great idea if accuracy is required.
It makes dialing in a four jaw a lot easier. Thanks for your note.
muy buena tu idea te felicito
Gracias, señor
well, could someone ask my question
why would you need to put such a piece on a lathe ? there is like a drilling machine or milling one. For what kind of pieces is this needed ?
You likely wouldn't do this...unless you don't own a drill press or a mill.
most drill presses cannot go to a large diameter and if precision is needed, a lathe may be the best option - rather a 'boring' example - for instance, mounting a bearing in a special housing and location.
Yeah what if you needed to bore a hole and tap it say 12 threads per inch. say your hole is 2 inches. Wanna buy a 2'-12 tap? Better have deep pockets.The lathe would be the way to go on something like that.
Really! This is very useful video.. !!!Thanks a lot!!!
Glad it was useful, thanks for watching and posting.
Pretty cool!
+Crivo152 Thanks