After watching numerous videos on the subject yours was the only one that I was finally able to dial in the material in the 4 jaw. Very well done, clear and concise explanation.. Thank you.
So easy to understand the way you explained it. I've watched other videos and they made it so complicated. I appreciate your 'KISS' method of teaching and found it easier to remember 'low-loosen-left of 0' and high-tighten-right of 0'. Thank you!!!
Yep, there's not that much to it but everything that needed addressing was addressed. Keep in mind though that this video is only an demonstration for pieces with long jaw contact. Pieces with small jaw contact also need to be dialed in for angular alignment.
Thanks for the vid Dale..... just got my 4 jaw yesterday. There sure is a huge difference between the 3 and 4. Used your technique and works great especially on the square stock. Just need to take it easy on the clamps when I get below 5 thou difference.
Never thought about a rule for which way to turn. Also never made a point of having the indicator where I was going to adjust with the wrench. I stenciled numbers on my chuck to lessen my confusion. Thank you. I needed a reason to stop justifying why I shouldn’t need my four jaw.
If your ever down under m8 I owe u a beer now it takes five min and I’m done, my boss is stoked he gave me about ten diff test rods and I nailed them all thx to u,all bs aside I really do appreciate the vid
Nothing said about how you have only adjusted the part for concentricity at the point where you setup the indicator. There is no guarantee that it is actually coaxial with the lathe spindle. You need to indicate at 2 points to check for that. Of course, if your chuck jaws are true and in good condition, and if the part is smooth and long (compared to the jaws), you have a good chance that setting up the indicator at 1 points will do an adequate job. However, worn jaws, rough parts, short parts are all too easily setup wrongly when you rely on a single indicator position.
4 jaw chucks are my favorite. I worked with 3 and 6 jaw and it was a lot more work to fine tune it. Plus a 4 jaw chuck can do machine offsets for making crankshafts etc.
Hey Abom how are you I alywas enjoying watching your videos! I just left question here and wish I can get your feedback here regard the problem I am facing Thank you! Oz
nice video that was quick, when I first tried that same technique it was on my on, sometimes I zeroed it with like 3 try like you did and sometimes it'll take me 40 mins, onto I got the hand of it like you did, great video thanks buddy.
Dale - Thanks for the explanation. I can now watch Keith and Adams videos and understand what they are doing. Hey, maybe I will challenge them to the 4 jaw at next years summer bash!!!
Could you maybe do a video next on using a 4 jaw chuck with sqare/rectangular stock. I'm ok when it comes to round stock, but with square/rectangular stock I always take ages to get it set up properly
Good video. A subject you could talk about is cutting oil vs coolant. When to use which. Especially from a hobbyist stand point. Coolant also has flood, mist and squirt bottle. very confusing. Thank you for all your hard work doing these videos.
That dial indicator holder is lovely. You were able to bring the needle to the correct spot by adjusting a screw on the stand. Any chance that you could tell us the manufacturer or give us a link because I would like one. It must beat my Draper one hands down
I really appreciate this video, I can't tell you how frustrating this is for a novice weekend warrior. This is the most concise easy method for centering a 4 jaw chuck I've seen. It should shave lots of time off my setups on my little South Bend 9" lathe.
@@tomt9543 I have chinese also, (came with classic 1440g/1 machine) but I think these chucks not soo bad. Actually, 1-2 weeks later it was success, in 15 minutes...
would be very helpful if you explained 1, why you put the indicator probe where you did (and not in a quadrant position) and 2, what you are doing with your left hand there
I had to watch it again, it's amazing how fast you forget the steps. Thank goodness I know where to look. By the way Dale, what is the brand name of your lathe and size? My 13x40 South Bend is running great. I still have some parts to replace but physically I'm going downhill. I want to sell mine and get a HD gearhead, 10" to 13" that is in great shape. All I want to do is come out to the garage, check the oil and put a piece of steel in to turn or play with. No more paint or parts to rebuild. Any brand names you can suggest? Thanks, and great video.
Personally I don't like to wrench on the side of the indicator since I don't want to accidentally hit it with either the chuck key or my arms. I usually probe the front, determine which sides to loosen and fasten. Then I move the screw I want to manipulate to the top and either loosen or tighten it. However moving around jaws directly in line with the indicator may prevent confusion for people who are new to this sort of thing.
Can You perhaps explain a little about the moving of the spindle in either this, or that direction - when You have babbit bearings? I didn't quite get that one...:(
I was laughing out loud with the clapping at the end! Buying the crowd. Great one Dale, Honestly, a great demo of straight thinking, the kind that first timers could grasp the basics, in one viewing, of course a well seasoned indicator racer, would drop the key and or the part, once or twice, forget the setting indicator on anything special, watch in the peripheral vision, like a tachometer on the dash 0 = L / counterclockwise and MAX = R / clockwise. LOL Just Saying! ;{)--------
Is it correct that the averaging of the high/low automatically accounts for the two independent axis of rotation? What happens if your high or low measurement doesn't fall in line with one of the axis of movement?
It does not matter where the high and low are in relation to the jaws. Once you set the dial to zero you simply set each jaw set to zero. Then repeat a few times to tweak it in. I learned this method from a mr. pete video and it works great. Chris
That's great Dale! But you had about 4-5 inches sticking out. If you put that indicator closer to the chuck do you have a different reading ? Also repeat at the tip, is the part wobbling?
Good trick. I live in Thailand and would like to set up my own small shop for model engineering. Can you recommend any Taiwanese smallish lathes I could buy? Somebody told me that these lathes are better than the Chinese lathes. I would love to have a British lathe or American lathe but the shipping would be to expensive. Any advice would be fine and thank you. Dermot
I liked the video, I can indicate a 4-jaw with no problem, but I have made a spindle that I turned between centers with a shoulder and threads for a spin on chuck it's for a L.H.Sparey dividing head chucked up in the 4 jaw indicated it .250 out from jaws .0005 runout or less moved out 1.750 and it's out .002 plus. I need to bore out the spindle end for arbors to hold gear blanks any ideas
The spindle in straight .999 at each end and no taper, I put a piece of drill rod .750 dia. and it reads about the same, removed the 4-jaw from the backing plate, left backing plate on lathe indicate it .000 run out, if the jaws are tight how could the spindle be moved with a copper block, also how do you fix the jaws for parallel clamping
I don't know the length of your part, put it will move under the jaws when you tap it lightly with copper, the jaws are never so tight or play free in their slots. But if the jaws do not clamp parallel, you have to turn or grind them when preloaded.
I never zero my indicator when dialing in, I find it a pointless step. I think it much easier to just watch what way the needle moves and crank in or out accordingly.
Lol I hate u I’m a 47 year old apprentice 1st year and that was great info thx m8 best I got on my first try was two thou out but my shaft wasn’t as smooth as yours took me an hour lol
Hi, you made grate videos, I just have question here, I did the same exactly what you did, but when I slide my Dial Indecator to the begining ( close to the chuck the dial read crazy run out!!! So I re did e erything from the begining this time the dial next to the jaws and when I have almost .001 and move my dial to the end of the shaft start reading crazy runout!!! I refaced the backplate of the chuck, also rechanged the jaws to different locations 1234, also using high precision steel 10mm OD shaft But nothing work! Same problem I can only do this in one spot e every time I slide th4 Dial to different spot the dial read hug runout Please help Oz
I recently made a 'holder' that takes my dial gauge, that then slots in/out of the tool post, needle sits bang on at centre height, I thought that were an important point? I also made a smaller second chuck key,....wish I had seen this video before I done all that. Lol
my 4 jaw chuck has only 2 key holes. I'm a total noob, so please forgive my questions. does it mean my chuck is self centering? does it mean I won;t be able to mount stock off center, to machine cams and off center shapes? does it mean I should now buy 4 jaws independent chuck on top of the one I have?
@@BuildSomthingCool I produce switchable magnets in batches. It requires boring 1 inch diameter 1.25 inch deep holes in aluminium and iron, formed as rectangular profile. I bought the lathe primarily for that job, but I want to drill off centre and also make cam locks etc So 4 jaws independent chuck was actually my 1st choice. When I ordered the lathe I assumed 4 jaw chucks are independent and they sent me self centering 4 jaw, and I am forced to buy another chuck, and buy/make back plate with 4 bolts, because 4 jaw self centering is 3 bolts mount and 4 jaws independent is 4 bolts mount Lesson learned. Sigh
I think this video is missing what happens and how to correct when the piece is not aligned with the lathe, if you displace the dial indicator longitudinally trough the pice you may notice sometimes that the high and low spots differs and this situation is not explained.
![fellow fellow - Proud [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9uZF7BlUQPE/mqdefault.jpg)
After watching numerous videos on the subject yours was the only one that I was finally able to dial in the material in the 4 jaw. Very well done, clear and concise explanation.. Thank you.
This is the best method I have seen yet! Saved a lot of headaches. I wish I could give this 2 thumbs up.
The best 4 jaw video under 5 minutes....4 thumbs up!
That is the best video I have seen regarding the 4 jaw, cheers, look forward to setting up my material now.
Thank you for taking the time to show this , your a really good teacher.
you rock!! THANK YOU so much for that help. Its getting much rarer and harder to find people like you. I am greatful
Legend! Been wanted to know how to do this for ages!
So easy to understand the way you explained it. I've watched other videos and they made it so complicated. I appreciate your 'KISS' method of teaching and found it easier to remember 'low-loosen-left of 0' and high-tighten-right of 0'. Thank you!!!
Loosen Lows, Tighten Highs. But then things get confusing when you start clocking/dialing in ID's lol
Great explanation Dale. Clear and Concise.
Thanks
Gary 74-Year-Old Home Shop Machinist
Thanks Gary
Great video as always, straight and to the point with zero nonsense.
Yep, there's not that much to it but everything that needed addressing was addressed.
Keep in mind though that this video is only an demonstration for pieces with long jaw contact.
Pieces with small jaw contact also need to be dialed in for angular alignment.
Thanks Mr Betaryer :-)
Thank you Dale all the way from Nicaragua. I like your tips and tricks.
Thanks for the vid Dale..... just got my 4 jaw yesterday. There sure is a huge difference between the 3 and 4. Used your technique and works great especially on the square stock. Just need to take it easy on the clamps when I get below 5 thou difference.
Congratulations on the new Chuck :-)
Brilliant. A perfect succinct tutorial. Thank you.
Never thought about a rule for which way to turn. Also never made a point of having the indicator where I was going to adjust with the wrench. I stenciled numbers on my chuck to lessen my confusion. Thank you. I needed a reason to stop justifying why I shouldn’t need my four jaw.
Glad I could help
Glad to see you back .
Thanks
Perfect lesson. I just got a four jaw for my SB Heavy 10.
Sir, I needed that im new to this, this 4 jaw is driving me nuts. thanks a lot, I need to practice.
Colin UK.
Coin. UK.
This is a very timely video for me Thanks I just started using my 4 jaw for the first time
Hi John, I hope it works for you
Hi Dale, Another great video. I like the explained videos. I learn a lot that way. Thank You.
Bill from Seattle
Thanks Bill
Thank you Dale. I got the jest of it, you got me started. Thank you for the video.
If your ever down under m8 I owe u a beer now it takes five min and I’m done, my boss is stoked he gave me about ten diff test rods and I nailed them all thx to u,all bs aside I really do appreciate the vid
Thank you so much, to loosen the jaw was every thing i was over looking,
keep up the very good work we really enjoy your very detailed video's, thanks.
Thanks
I’ve never seen anyone do it that way. One of my students sent this to me and it seems like that works better for him.
Cool approach with the averaging high and low. I'll be using that one.
Hi Nik, Im glad you liked it
Nothing said about how you have only adjusted the part for concentricity at the point where you setup the indicator. There is no guarantee that it is actually coaxial with the lathe spindle. You need to indicate at 2 points to check for that. Of course, if your chuck jaws are true and in good condition, and if the part is smooth and long (compared to the jaws), you have a good chance that setting up the indicator at 1 points will do an adequate job. However, worn jaws, rough parts, short parts are all too easily setup wrongly when you rely on a single indicator position.
Excellent video.
awesome vids very helpful for us beginners ( possibly a few seasoned vets)!
Thank you for this informative and helpful video.
Thanks Virginia. :-)
Thanks for your tip!
Thanks dale
Will give it a go. You did make it look easy :)
Thank You!!!!
Saved my day!!
4 jaw chucks are my favorite. I worked with 3 and 6 jaw and it was a lot more work to fine tune it. Plus a 4 jaw chuck can do machine offsets for making crankshafts etc.
Great point about the doing off center work
Alright Dale, I want to see you indicate a 500 lb pump housing next using that trick.
Ok! Im up for the challenge. The next time I'm in Pensacola we'll make it happen.
Adam, I'll pick up on Vanessa's and I way down so he doesn't weasels out! LOL
Hey Abom how are you I alywas enjoying watching your videos! I just left question here and wish I can get your feedback here regard the problem I am facing
Thank you!
Oz
I’d like to see Dale do that with an old VW fastback! LOL
Chad Nott
So ground stock for a set up?
Thanks for the lesson
Great tutorial, thank you
nice video that was quick, when I first tried that same technique it was on my on, sometimes I zeroed it with like 3 try like you did and sometimes it'll take me 40 mins, onto I got the hand of it like you did, great video thanks buddy.
Thanks :-)
I liked that procedure. Thanks!!
Hi Jan, Thanks for your comment
Nicely done Dale!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin:-)
great video
Thanks for your videos!
Thanks Charlton :-)
I have worked in factory for 4yrs I I have a lot of experience in practical work mostly on Lethe machine
Nice Video Dale, Thanks
thanks Phil
Dale - Thanks for the explanation. I can now watch Keith and Adams videos and understand what they are doing. Hey, maybe I will challenge them to the 4 jaw at next years summer bash!!!
I think you should too Don :-)
Very good really enjoyed it.
Great video👍
Cool! I like the new channel name!👍🏻
Thank, I do too. :-)
Could you maybe do a video next on using a 4 jaw chuck with sqare/rectangular stock.
I'm ok when it comes to round stock, but with square/rectangular stock I always take ages to get it set up properly
that will be out this week
I don’t think there is a quick way with square stock unfortunately
Good video. A subject you could talk about is cutting oil vs coolant. When to use which. Especially from a hobbyist stand point. Coolant also has flood, mist and squirt bottle. very confusing.
Thank you for all your hard work doing these videos.
I have been wanting to do a video on that subject, just have not had the time to do it.
That dial indicator holder is lovely. You were able to bring the needle to the correct spot by adjusting a screw on the stand. Any chance that you could tell us the manufacturer or give us a link because I would like one. It must beat my Draper one hands down
Thank you for a very informative video.
Thanks for your comment 😀
@@BuildSomthingCool You are more than welcome, went out to the workshop and your video was the missing link I needed and nailed it straightaway.
thank you teacher
Nice video sir
Thank you very mach! ✊
Liked subscribed love your channel thank you
Thanks
awesome as always
Thanks Abdullah :-)
Great tips! Next year you need to take on Adam and Keith!
Thats just what I was thinking
Ill doit just for the money
Interesting - never tried that approach before and will give it a go next time....
It has made it easier for me.
That white board behind your lathe is a great way to make a thumbnail for your video.
That's a very clever idea which I might just have to steal! :D
Steel away. :-)
Thank you so much!!!
Very Good
Excellent!
Thanks Eric
I really appreciate this video, I can't tell you how frustrating this is for a novice weekend warrior. This is the most concise easy method for centering a 4 jaw chuck I've seen. It should shave lots of time off my setups on my little South Bend 9" lathe.
really helpful
thanks
very helpfull
Very helpful . . .
Thanks George
Nice one Dale
Great refresher and in quick set-up time
Cool Hand Luke is it ??
Keep 'em rolling
All the best
aRM
Thanks
I've tried this, first in my life, yesterday (dec,7), it was 40-45 minutes and totally unsuccessful. I need some practice... O:))))
I blame it on the crap Chinese 4 jaw that came with my 9 X 20!
@@tomt9543 I have chinese also, (came with classic 1440g/1 machine) but I think these chucks not soo bad. Actually, 1-2 weeks later it was success, in 15 minutes...
would be very helpful if you explained 1, why you put the indicator probe where you did (and not in a quadrant position) and 2, what you are doing with your left hand there
nice tip .
So now life will be easier thanks
Watched it at least 6 times 😂
I had to watch it again, it's amazing how fast you forget the steps. Thank goodness I know where to look. By the way Dale, what is the brand name of your lathe and size? My 13x40 South Bend is running great. I still have some parts to replace but physically I'm going downhill. I want to sell mine and get a HD gearhead, 10" to 13" that is in great shape. All I want to do is come out to the garage, check the oil and put a piece of steel in to turn or play with. No more paint or parts to rebuild. Any brand names you can suggest? Thanks, and great video.
Personally I don't like to wrench on the side of the indicator since I don't want to accidentally hit it with either the chuck key or my arms.
I usually probe the front, determine which sides to loosen and fasten. Then I move the screw I want to manipulate to the top and either loosen or tighten it.
However moving around jaws directly in line with the indicator may prevent confusion for people who are new to this sort of thing.
Good Comment. :-)
thanks
Great vido for novice like me
Can You perhaps explain a little about the moving of the spindle in either this, or that direction - when You have babbit bearings? I didn't quite get that one...:(
How would you go by centering either an square beam or any asymmetric job?
This is not a dig. We're back to what this channel was originally founded on. Tips & Tricks.
Thanks for your comment. I like doing the tip and tricks thing too.
I was laughing out loud with the clapping at the end! Buying the crowd. Great one Dale, Honestly, a great demo of straight thinking, the kind that first timers could grasp the basics, in one viewing, of course a well seasoned indicator racer, would drop the key and or the part, once or twice, forget the setting indicator on anything special, watch in the peripheral vision, like a tachometer on the dash 0 = L / counterclockwise and MAX = R / clockwise. LOL Just Saying! ;{)--------
Is it correct that the averaging of the high/low automatically accounts for the two independent axis of rotation? What happens if your high or low measurement doesn't fall in line with one of the axis of movement?
It does not matter where the high and low are in relation to the jaws. Once you set the dial to zero you simply set each jaw set to zero. Then repeat a few times to tweak it in. I learned this method from a mr. pete video and it works great. Chris
Thanks for ansering this question Shadowdog
That's great Dale! But you had about 4-5 inches sticking out. If you put that indicator closer to the chuck do you have a different reading ? Also repeat at the tip, is the part wobbling?
Robert you are right your should keep it every thing in as tight as you can, but sometimes it over kill. you will see in my next video. :-)
Build Something Cool , I'm looking forward to the next video! Always look forward to see what you have in store for us viewers !!
Good trick. I live in Thailand and would like to set up my own small shop for model engineering. Can you recommend any Taiwanese smallish lathes I could buy? Somebody told me that these lathes are better than the Chinese lathes. I would love to have a British lathe or American lathe but the shipping would be to expensive. Any advice would be fine and thank you. Dermot
Hi Dermont, I know your not going to like my answer. I only buy used and know nothing about new lathe. Sorry!
Are you going to go up against Keith next year and the Bash?
we will see. :-)
I liked the video, I can indicate a 4-jaw with no problem, but I have made a spindle that I turned between centers with a shoulder and threads for a spin on chuck it's for a L.H.Sparey dividing head chucked up in the 4 jaw indicated it .250 out from jaws .0005 runout or less moved out 1.750 and it's out .002 plus. I need to bore out the spindle end for arbors to hold gear blanks any ideas
Either try tapping your part straight with copper block or fix your jaws for parallel clamping, assuming your spindle is perfect.
The spindle in straight .999 at each end and no taper, I put a piece of drill rod .750 dia. and it reads about the same, removed the 4-jaw from the backing plate, left backing plate on lathe indicate it .000 run out,
if the jaws are tight how could the spindle be moved with a copper block, also how do you fix the jaws for parallel clamping
I don't know the length of your part, put it will move under the jaws when you tap it lightly with copper, the jaws are never so tight or play free in their slots. But if the jaws do not clamp parallel, you have to turn or grind them when preloaded.
I never zero my indicator when dialing in, I find it a pointless step. I think it much easier to just watch what way the needle moves and crank in or out accordingly.
Hi Brian, Are you trying to troll me. LOL :-)
Exactly, here the numbers are unimportant, we are just looking for highs and lows. If you have time to kill; zero it out.
@@spudpud-T67 He did it in about two minutes. So big deal.
I agree, I don't zero mine either I just loosen my low tighen my high and keep bringing it in til I get it as good as I can get it.
Can the work be center in one place but wobble at the far end ?
Lol I hate u I’m a 47 year old apprentice 1st year and that was great info thx m8 best I got on my first try was two thou out but my shaft wasn’t as smooth as yours took me an hour lol
i thought i had rather have the clap, but this is good, ill get it.
Hi, you made grate videos, I just have question here, I did the same exactly what you did, but when I slide my Dial Indecator to the begining ( close to the chuck the dial read crazy run out!!!
So I re did e erything from the begining this time the dial next to the jaws and when I have almost .001 and move my dial to the end of the shaft start reading crazy runout!!!
I refaced the backplate of the chuck, also rechanged the jaws to different locations 1234, also using high precision steel 10mm OD shaft
But nothing work! Same problem I can only do this in one spot e every time I slide th4 Dial to different spot the dial read hug runout
Please help
Oz
I prefer my 4 jaw chuck over the 3 jaw. I can get things aligned exactly instead of within .003 inches.
good point :-)
I recently made a 'holder' that takes my dial gauge, that then slots in/out of the tool post, needle sits bang on at centre height, I thought that were an important point? I also made a smaller second chuck key,....wish I had seen this video before I done all that. Lol
That a nice way to do it. :-)
just ask abom79 or turn right machine
my 4 jaw chuck has only 2 key holes.
I'm a total noob, so please forgive my questions.
does it mean my chuck is self centering?
does it mean I won;t be able to mount stock off center, to machine cams and off center shapes?
does it mean I should now buy 4 jaws independent chuck on top of the one I have?
You should ask do you need one, would you use it, not everyone needs one or would use it.:-)
@@BuildSomthingCool I produce switchable magnets in batches.
It requires boring 1 inch diameter 1.25 inch deep holes in aluminium and iron, formed as rectangular profile.
I bought the lathe primarily for that job, but I want to drill off centre and also make cam locks etc
So 4 jaws independent chuck was actually my 1st choice. When I ordered the lathe I assumed 4 jaw chucks are independent and they sent me self centering 4 jaw, and I am forced to buy another chuck, and buy/make back plate with 4 bolts, because 4 jaw self centering is 3 bolts mount and 4 jaws independent is 4 bolts mount
Lesson learned. Sigh
"Welcome back to Metal Tips an Tricks."
Wrong. It's "Build Something Cool." Is there an explanation for this?
I bet he filmed this before the name change. Chris
Name change... Prelude to a sex change...??? lol
+Pierre's Garage
You're getting a sex change?? I always suspected that sordid stuff about you!! lol!
challenge Keith
I have, he laughed me :-)
Did you learn this from Keith and Adam? j/k ;.-)
LOL of course I did
I like to use 2 chuck keys, opposite each other... Try it...
Make 5 jaw chuck next! /jk
LOL
they do make a 6 jaw chuck, is there anything more than that?
I saw 8 jaw before. but never one with odd number ;)
3 jaw ??
I think this video is missing what happens and how to correct when the piece is not aligned with the lathe, if you displace the dial indicator longitudinally trough the pice you may notice sometimes that the high and low spots differs and this situation is not explained.
Hey Dale short and sweet super useful. I thought of you I'm moving my machine shop soon check me out
thanks
Build Something Cool perfect timing Dale I just purchased a four jaw because I had to fab a certain part video titled LS details check it out thanx