Excellent video.I appreciate that you showed how to mont and center an 80 mm 3 jaw self centering chuck onto the 4 inch 4 slot rotary table.Congratulations and thak you for sharing.
Very nice work! I expected the Fly Cutter to work quite well compared to say, an endmill; due to having a much higher mass. But I didn't expect it to be so silky smooth! That is a very nice cut! No comparison to the vibrate-y cuts with the endmills. I'd wager we see this tool a lot in the future!
Thank you very much for your comment! Yes I didn't expect the cutter to run that smooth as I wasn't sure to nail the right dimensions and angles for the insert seat properly. But happily it turned out really good and is very satisfying to use :)
In my opinion, the greater error in balancing is that measurements were taken without a cutting plate. I wouldn't overrate it because the reflective surface is fantastic.
I really like this take on a fly cutter, very different to mine. Just got my hands on a set of those same inserts that you have there and I wasn't hugely impressed with the finish. I found that button inserts give me the best fly cut finish. Cheers
Hey, I saw your video too:) Cool work! That's the common way of making a fly cutter. I wanted to try a bit different approach:) With button inserts you mean the round ones? They are certainly a good choice. But as I had the dcmt inserts on hand for my lathe and am quite happy with them in aluminium, I tried to use them for the fly cutter. And in my case it works extremely well. It's often a bit of trial and error. If the angles aren't right on the tool or the inserts are lousy, the finish won't be good.
Button insert face mills far outperform flycutters for finish, metal removal and better balance as they have more than one insert engaged. I did a test comparing them and there was quite a difference. If I was to make another flycutter my choice would definitely be a button insert, better finish, gradual edge engagement and far easier to make.
Nice job mate. Been a journeyman machinist since '94 and I've probably made a dozen or so over the years, from a tiny 1 incher up to 11 inches but none quite like this one. Pretty nice finish too I'd say! The one thing I would wonder would be using an interference fit for the shank versus using a mechanical fastener. I would think that a bolt on shank would offer way more in the name of rigidity, but so far so good it seems. Thanks for sharing! 👍🤓
Thanks. I haven't filmed how balanced the cutter is after drilling the holes. But I tested it and yes, it was not perfect. The cutter still slightly rolled to one side. But before I removed more material, I tried it in the miling spindle and was surprised, that there were no noticable vibrations. So I let it as it was :)
You might consider making one where you duplicate the cutout for the insert 180 degrees away. You'd get better static balance, and good dynamic balance as well. Just a thought.
Regarding the location of the hold-down screw...You should offset the hole toward the corner of the pocket perhaps 0.005". This preloads the insert tight against the pocket using the chamfer of the screw head. You'll need to consider the clearance between the screw shank and the hole in the insert in establishing the exact offset.
Thanks for your comment! I actually did exactly what you wrote :) Just didn't show it in the video. I took the position of the hole in the insert with the drillbit in the chuck and than positioned the hole slightly towards the corner.
Great video, I appreciate your high production quality! For heavy cuts with big tool contact area like that chamfer, to avoid chatter I recommend turning spindle by hand. This way, cutting speed is super low and chatter is eliminated or greatly reduced
Thanks for your comment! I really do appreciate that! Yes, for the chamfer the spindle speed was way too high. Don't know why I didn't changed the speed.
I cut a 1/2 inch unf 20 thread directly into the flycutter, can now screw it directly onto the proxxon milling motor and it is more stable, I do the same with side milling cutters
Hi and thanks for your comment! That is indeed a really cool idea! I'm not sure, if the thing is running true cause a thread isn't the best way to center but I really like the idea. Perhaps I'm trying this out :)
From what I see you have been very successful in balancing your cutter. And this is what I have learned from your video. I wonder if the area in the pocket that you removed will cause you troubles?
Hey, yes, the cutter runs pretty smooth. Even it is not perfectly balanced. A slight imbalance was still there. I don't think the holes I drilled will weaken the cutter sifnificantly. The cuts I did with it so far were very promising.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Balancing a fly cutter? Think twice you cannot balance a fly cutter. Maybe for optical reasons before cutting but as soon as you touch the material you'll be out of balance. I still prefer the face mill because I can have 4 inserts in my one, I tried only to put 1 insert into it and the performance degraded (my little machine seems to have more power thus the 4 inserts are just fine for it).
Very nice work, congratulations, I was never think that this little bits used to carve PCB can be used on steel. Are of those type or are a different one?
Thanks for your comment! Yes, this is a carbide engraving bit. I think it's meant for engraving in different materials but steel obviously isn't the preferred one :) I really wasn't sure if this will work but simply had no other option for machining this angled feature. So I tried and luckily it worked quite ok although the length extension weakened the tool additionally.
Hey and thanks for your comment. I had the dcmt inserts on hand as I use them normally on my mini lathe. The polished inserts work quite well in aluminium, that's why I thought using them for the fly cutter. The result was rather nice. But would be interesting to hear, which type of inserts you had chosen?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter well I can certainly understand "it's what I had and it's put up to all the abuse I put it through so far" DCMT has certainly become my favorite insert as well. So I want to point out that all of my knowledge on this subject has come from recent research because I've decided to start investing in replaceable insert tooling. I don't have a mill, but if I did and I was going to buy inserts to make a fly cutter I think my choices would be A series like AFTN, or AMPT, because they're Square and the larger the internal angle the more durable the carbide is, according to all of the manufacturers catalogs that I've read. The other one that I would be seriously considering would be considering would be the Trigon W series inserts like a WNMG. Now whenever I get the milling attachment built for my lathe, I will be looking at making fly cutters from the triangular inserts, like the larger TNMG, or more likely like the TCMT inserts I have for turning tools now.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Just as a point of interest, Kurtis @ Cutting Edge Engineering just said that he thinks that 75° ECGT inserts are in his opinion the best for line boring chowdered heavy equipment...
Hallo, ich habe die selben Maschinen von Proxxon. Das Problem mit dem Spannen von Werkzeugen > 6mm habe ich mit einem gedrehten Adapter zu einem Schnellspannfutter bis 10 mm gelöst. Es gibt auch Bohrfutter direkt für das UNF Gewinde, wo die Zangenmutter draufgeschraubt wird. Als Du den C45 gespannt hast, habe ich vor allem mit dem Alu KT150 mitgelitten. Das Endprodukt ist für diesen Maschinenpark ausgezeichnet gelungen.
Hi, danke für deinen Kommentar:) Ein Bohrfutter für das Gewinde war glücklicherweise sogar dabei. Allerdings ist es nicht wirklich empfohlen, Fräser im Bohrfutter zu spannen, deswegen bin ich da etwas vorsichtig. Hab mir aber auch schon gedanken gemacht, wie man evtl größere Fräserschäfte spannen könnte. Evtl ein Spannzangenfutter mit UNF Gewinde für ER-Spannzangen....? Und ja, der Alu Kreuztisch fängt schnell an zu vibrieren. Da bin ich auch schon am überlegen, welche Maßnahmen ich zur Verbesserung ergreifen könnte. Meine aktuelle Idee ist, die hohlen Druckgussteile mit Mineralbeton oder Ähnlichem auzugießen. Vllt hilft das, die Vibrationen zu verringern und insgesamt, mehr Stabilität reinzubringen. Aber ich finde auch, das Ergebnis ist dafür recht gut geworden;) Danke!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hi, weißt du, was das für ein Bohrfutter ist? Ich habe das von proxxon, allerdings läuft es unrund, da es außer dem Gewinde keine Zentrierung gibt (von proxxon bestätigt). Deins scheint relativ rund zu laufen. Gruß Marc
hehe :D No animals getting harmed here (at least I hope so) ;) That is the name machinists gave this tool which has only one cutting edge flying around for facing larger surfaces and creating a smooth finish.
Hello, excellent video on the build of your fly cutter. Having just got one of these Proxxon Milling machines, it's something that I will definitely try and recreate. What size of Milling vice did you get for it, 75mm or 100mm? Regards Chris
Thank you very much. I'm planning this. I first wanted to make a video on the whole electric and motor konversion but this will take more time as I have to wait for parts for month. So I will make a video only on the new sewing machine motor soon.
Hi thanks for the great video. Possible to demo various ways the Proxxon mill BFW 40/E in action? Not usual to see this mill with square base in use for milling metal plates just curious which is space saving and robust in many tasks.
That was a fun project, great video as always. In the meantime you've acquired a nice set of machines and tools. Oh, and thanks for your tip on the bluing liquid, I got the same as you recommended. All the best from Holland!
I was wondering where you’ve bought that fly cutter!!!! Awesome idea!!! Do you mind if we make one and use it? 7:03 How do you like the Sandu brand? “Milling” machine is a Proxmoxx or just the rotary used as a cutter? Worth it? Love your videos
It seems the spindle bearing need replacing for cup and cone type to stop the chatter. Check out Ade's work shop he Is doing just that with his Mini lathe.
Thank you very much! I bought them on the used marked. They were new but much cheaper than buying it new in a shop. I think Korloy was the name of the manufacturer.
It is from the company Ballistol. It was a set in a small case with cold bluing solution, degreaser spray and oil spray. Works very well for my purpose.
You mean the 6mm shank for clamping? Yes, it is definitely a bit thin. But I had no other choice as the proxxon mill only takes up to 6mm collets. I can't clamp anything bigger than that :/ The cuts I made so far worked well.
Hallo! Wirklich wirklich tolle Arbeit! Ich verneige mich! Ist diese Drehmaschine von Artec die mit 250mm Spitzenweite? Ich frage weil ich die gleiche habe und nur mal wissen wollte wie sich die Kunststoff Zahnräder im Vorschub getriebe abnutzen, oder ob es da keine Probleme gibt.
Hallo. Vielen Dank, zu viel der Ehre;) Ja, die Maschine ist von Artec, sie hat aber eine Spitzenweite von 300mm, nicht 250mm. Zumindest meine :) Stimmt, die Vorschubzahnräder sind aus Kunststoff. So oft benutze ich die nicht, deswegen halten bis jetzt noch alle. Es gab noch keine Ausfälle. Es gibt aber so für 60-80€ einen ganzen Satz Ersatzzahnräder aus Metall. Hab mir das auch schonmal überlegt, die anzuschaffen.
Hi, it depends on what you want do do with the machine and how much money and space you have. For small things as I use it, the machine is fine and it needs not a lot of space and is not that heavy that you can move it around. But off course due to the light weight it tends to chatter and is not that solid. I'm happy with it for small work but a little bit heavier would be good.
Looks pretty. (What's a fly cutter..?) Had this video in my recommended thingies, but I don't know machining terminology... Maybe a small explanation (just a picture + picture of what it's used for) beforehand would be helpful :)
Hi and thanks for your comment and feedback. I'll keep that in mind. A fly cutter is the name for a milling tool with (mostly) only one cutting edge flying around in the orbit :) It is relatively easy to make and good for cleaning up larger surfaces on the mill and for creating good surface finishes.
Cutting that large chamfer might have been better the use a vee cutter in the horizontal setup rather than doing it how you did . it would have been more rigid
Thanks for your comment! I thought quite long how to machine this. Your idea might probably is better, but I had not the right tool to machine it this way. So I tried it the way I did. Not the best way ;)
For a fly cutter that's only meant to handle very light cuts I think I would have gone for one that takes the soldered carbide bits that you can sharpen on a diamond wheel. The type of inserts you are using are never really sharp as they are meant for taking far heavier cuts than your fly cutter could handle. The soldered ones can be made razor sharp, which makes for less power consumption and better finish if you get the geometry right.
The problem was that the chamfer isn't going all the way around the tool. At the point where the insert sits, I wanted no chamfer to have as much material as possible to support the cutting insert.
Jolie travail de conception pour fabriquer un outils. Mais vue l'état de surface plutôt bon et vue la plaquette que vous utilisez,je suppose que c'est de l'aluminium sur une passe de 0.4/0.5 dixièmes . Il ne serais pas plus judicieux d'utiliser un tourteau a 6 plaquette ,le résultat seras meilleur a mon avis .
Good realisation but you Turn too fast on the lathe. If you Turn steel like C45 with carbide tool use 120-160m/min. So for a 50 diamètre : 890 r/min For HSS tool use 25m/min It's just an andvice
You really ought to learn the correct cutting speeds for materials. You were running the lathe way too fast for that steel. Steel should be cut at 100 feet per minute. Cast iron is 80 feet per minute. The cuts were not too much for the lathe it was too many rpm’s and no coolant.
Excellent video.I appreciate that you showed how to mont and center an 80 mm 3 jaw self centering chuck onto the 4 inch 4 slot rotary table.Congratulations and thak you for sharing.
Thank you so much for your kind comment and feedback! I really do appreciate that.
THAT WAS PRETTY SICK ,,, THANKS FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you for your comment!
Greetings from India! Nice SOBA vice, good to see atleast a few Indian companies making decent products.
Yes, SOBA do make good vices, I've had one on my mill for about 25 years.
Having a lathe and milling machine is nice. Knowing speeds and feeds for them is even nicer.
You mean because of the chattering? Yes, I should have choosen a lower cutting speed.
Why do I have to constantly buy new end mills? I really don't know. haha
Very nice work!
I expected the Fly Cutter to work quite well compared to say, an endmill; due to having a much higher mass. But I didn't expect it to be so silky smooth! That is a very nice cut! No comparison to the vibrate-y cuts with the endmills. I'd wager we see this tool a lot in the future!
Thank you very much for your comment! Yes I didn't expect the cutter to run that smooth as I wasn't sure to nail the right dimensions and angles for the insert seat properly. But happily it turned out really good and is very satisfying to use :)
In my opinion, the greater error in balancing is that measurements were taken without a cutting plate. I wouldn't overrate it because the reflective surface is fantastic.
Skill is the great equalizers. Congratulations you have arrived.
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that.
Never seen one of those proxxon mills running. Nice job using what ya got.
Thanks.
I really like this take on a fly cutter, very different to mine. Just got my hands on a set of those same inserts that you have there and I wasn't hugely impressed with the finish. I found that button inserts give me the best fly cut finish. Cheers
Hey, I saw your video too:) Cool work! That's the common way of making a fly cutter. I wanted to try a bit different approach:) With button inserts you mean the round ones? They are certainly a good choice. But as I had the dcmt inserts on hand for my lathe and am quite happy with them in aluminium, I tried to use them for the fly cutter. And in my case it works extremely well. It's often a bit of trial and error. If the angles aren't right on the tool or the inserts are lousy, the finish won't be good.
Button insert face mills far outperform flycutters for finish, metal removal and better balance as they have more than one insert engaged. I did a test comparing them and there was quite a difference. If I was to make another flycutter my choice would definitely be a button insert, better finish, gradual edge engagement and far easier to make.
The beginning of the video is very interesting, I feel a little cute
My wife thinks I'm dumb for laughing at some parts of your videos but I can't help it
hehe :)
@@WeCanDoThatBetter A very simple, effective way to build a fly cutter, well done.
Nice job mate. Been a journeyman machinist since '94 and I've probably made a dozen or so over the years, from a tiny 1 incher up to 11 inches but none quite like this one. Pretty nice finish too I'd say! The one thing I would wonder would be using an interference fit for the shank versus using a mechanical fastener. I would think that a bolt on shank would offer way more in the name of rigidity, but so far so good it seems. Thanks for sharing! 👍🤓
very nice work. I like how you balanced that. and this was done without exotically priced equipment. very cool.
Nice job. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thank you very much! Happy to hear, you shared the video :) I really do appreciate that.
Nice work, i wish you could show us how balanced fly cutter is after removing material.
Thanks. I haven't filmed how balanced the cutter is after drilling the holes. But I tested it and yes, it was not perfect. The cutter still slightly rolled to one side. But before I removed more material, I tried it in the miling spindle and was surprised, that there were no noticable vibrations. So I let it as it was :)
Balance only matters at extremely high Rpm’s unless it’s HUGE
You might consider making one where you duplicate the cutout for the insert 180 degrees away. You'd get better static balance, and good dynamic balance as well. Just a thought.
Another nice little addition 👍🏼
Regarding the location of the hold-down screw...You should offset the hole toward the corner of the pocket perhaps 0.005". This preloads the insert tight against the pocket using the chamfer of the screw head. You'll need to consider the clearance between the screw shank and the hole in the insert in establishing the exact offset.
Thanks for your comment! I actually did exactly what you wrote :) Just didn't show it in the video. I took the position of the hole in the insert with the drillbit in the chuck and than positioned the hole slightly towards the corner.
Great video, I appreciate your high production quality!
For heavy cuts with big tool contact area like that chamfer, to avoid chatter I recommend turning spindle by hand. This way, cutting speed is super low and chatter is eliminated or greatly reduced
Thanks for your comment! I really do appreciate that! Yes, for the chamfer the spindle speed was way too high. Don't know why I didn't changed the speed.
Cool! Next time ask HOGETEX to send you a decent fly cutter to make a vice
:D haha, like that ;)
Great job, thank you brother. You are so talented
Thank you very much!
I cut a 1/2 inch unf 20 thread directly into the flycutter, can now screw it directly onto the proxxon milling motor and it is more stable, I do the same with side milling cutters
Hi and thanks for your comment! That is indeed a really cool idea! I'm not sure, if the thing is running true cause a thread isn't the best way to center but I really like the idea. Perhaps I'm trying this out :)
Thanks for sharing! Sweet project.
Thank you very much!
Смотрю, автор большой любитель высоких оборотов и малой жесткости))
From what I see you have been very successful in balancing your cutter. And this is what I have learned from your video. I wonder if the area in the pocket that you removed will cause you troubles?
Hey, yes, the cutter runs pretty smooth. Even it is not perfectly balanced. A slight imbalance was still there. I don't think the holes I drilled will weaken the cutter sifnificantly. The cuts I did with it so far were very promising.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Balancing a fly cutter? Think twice you cannot balance a fly cutter. Maybe for optical reasons before cutting but as soon as you touch the material you'll be out of balance.
I still prefer the face mill because I can have 4 inserts in my one, I tried only to put 1 insert into it and the performance degraded (my little machine seems to have more power thus the 4 inserts are just fine for it).
very nice result and inspiring as always!
Thank you very much!
That was pretty cool.
Thank you very much!
Beautiful work! :)
Thanks :)
Very nice work, congratulations, I was never think that this little bits used to carve PCB can be used on steel. Are of those type or are a different one?
Thanks for your comment! Yes, this is a carbide engraving bit. I think it's meant for engraving in different materials but steel obviously isn't the preferred one :) I really wasn't sure if this will work but simply had no other option for machining this angled feature. So I tried and luckily it worked quite ok although the length extension weakened the tool additionally.
Nice job my friend !
Thank you!
I liked the intro! :)
;)thanks my friend:)
Ich werde so etwas nie benötigen, geschweige überhaupt selbst herstellen. Und trotzdem faszinierend was man alles herstellen kann ^^
:) vielen Dank für den Kommentar. Es freut mich, wenn meine Arbeit zumindest so unterhaltsam ist, dass man es sich gerne anschaut. Danke! :)
Thanks for sharing 👍
Nice job!
Thanks!
un video genial, muy buen trabajo! una pregunta: porque el chaflan no se lo has hecho con el torno en vez de usar la fresadora?
I was wondering too 😂
Maybe he didn't want the chamfer to go all the way around the circumference?
@@vikassm rigth!
Well done
Thank you:)
Well done! Great job.!
Thank you!
Beautifully done. I am curious though why you chose DCMT, which are by default the most fragile regular use insert.
I'm thinking to build something like this. What would you recommend for best long life/low cutting power ratio cutter?
Hey and thanks for your comment. I had the dcmt inserts on hand as I use them normally on my mini lathe. The polished inserts work quite well in aluminium, that's why I thought using them for the fly cutter. The result was rather nice. But would be interesting to hear, which type of inserts you had chosen?
@@WeCanDoThatBetter well I can certainly understand "it's what I had and it's put up to all the abuse I put it through so far" DCMT has certainly become my favorite insert as well. So I want to point out that all of my knowledge on this subject has come from recent research because I've decided to start investing in replaceable insert tooling. I don't have a mill, but if I did and I was going to buy inserts to make a fly cutter I think my choices would be A series like AFTN, or AMPT, because they're Square and the larger the internal angle the more durable the carbide is, according to all of the manufacturers catalogs that I've read. The other one that I would be seriously considering would be considering would be the Trigon W series inserts like a WNMG. Now whenever I get the milling attachment built for my lathe, I will be looking at making fly cutters from the triangular inserts, like the larger TNMG, or more likely like the TCMT inserts I have for turning tools now.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Just as a point of interest, Kurtis @ Cutting Edge Engineering just said that he thinks that 75° ECGT inserts are in his opinion the best for line boring chowdered heavy equipment...
@@trollforge what does chowdered mean?
Very nice work !!! I lkie this !
Thank you very much! I really do appreciate that!
Hallo, ich habe die selben Maschinen von Proxxon. Das Problem mit dem Spannen von Werkzeugen > 6mm habe ich mit einem gedrehten Adapter zu einem Schnellspannfutter bis 10 mm gelöst.
Es gibt auch Bohrfutter direkt für das UNF Gewinde, wo die Zangenmutter draufgeschraubt wird. Als Du den C45 gespannt hast, habe ich vor allem mit dem Alu KT150 mitgelitten.
Das Endprodukt ist für diesen Maschinenpark ausgezeichnet gelungen.
Hi, danke für deinen Kommentar:) Ein Bohrfutter für das Gewinde war glücklicherweise sogar dabei. Allerdings ist es nicht wirklich empfohlen, Fräser im Bohrfutter zu spannen, deswegen bin ich da etwas vorsichtig. Hab mir aber auch schon gedanken gemacht, wie man evtl größere Fräserschäfte spannen könnte. Evtl ein Spannzangenfutter mit UNF Gewinde für ER-Spannzangen....? Und ja, der Alu Kreuztisch fängt schnell an zu vibrieren. Da bin ich auch schon am überlegen, welche Maßnahmen ich zur Verbesserung ergreifen könnte. Meine aktuelle Idee ist, die hohlen Druckgussteile mit Mineralbeton oder Ähnlichem auzugießen. Vllt hilft das, die Vibrationen zu verringern und insgesamt, mehr Stabilität reinzubringen. Aber ich finde auch, das Ergebnis ist dafür recht gut geworden;) Danke!
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Hi, weißt du, was das für ein Bohrfutter ist? Ich habe das von proxxon, allerdings läuft es unrund, da es außer dem Gewinde keine Zentrierung gibt (von proxxon bestätigt). Deins scheint relativ rund zu laufen. Gruß Marc
I read the title as making a small fly cutter for insects.
In my head I was thinking "tiny guilletine"
hehe :D No animals getting harmed here (at least I hope so) ;)
That is the name machinists gave this tool which has only one cutting edge flying around for facing larger surfaces and creating a smooth finish.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter hehe
Hello, excellent video on the build of your fly cutter.
Having just got one of these Proxxon Milling machines, it's something that I will definitely try and recreate.
What size of Milling vice did you get for it, 75mm or 100mm?
Regards Chris
A really nice job, wish I had your skills
Thank you very much!
Nice work. I look forward to the lathe motor conversion video. Cheers from Canada.
Thank you very much. I'm planning this. I first wanted to make a video on the whole electric and motor konversion but this will take more time as I have to wait for parts for month. So I will make a video only on the new sewing machine motor soon.
trabalho técnico, detalhado, e claro feito por alguém muito bom!
Хорошая работа. Спасибо)
Hi thanks for the great video. Possible to demo various ways the Proxxon mill BFW 40/E in action? Not usual to see this mill with square base in use for milling metal plates just curious which is space saving and robust in many tasks.
Very nice
That was a fun project, great video as always. In the meantime you've acquired a nice set of machines and tools. Oh, and thanks for your tip on the bluing liquid, I got the same as you recommended. All the best from Holland!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! Good to know, you have found the cold bluing solution.
Eggcellent !
Amazing
Sehr coole Idee 👍👍👍
Vielen Dank! :)
I like this type and I think I going for this kind, it looks less likely to get chatter.
Honorary dull mens club member just like myself 👍
Very nice work.
What ever that is :D Thank you very much!
I was wondering where you’ve bought that fly cutter!!!! Awesome idea!!! Do you mind if we make one and use it?
7:03
How do you like the Sandu brand?
“Milling” machine is a Proxmoxx or just the rotary used as a cutter? Worth it?
Love your videos
It seems the spindle bearing need replacing for cup and cone type to stop the chatter. Check out Ade's work shop he Is doing just that with his Mini lathe.
Yes, that must be definitely be done in the future. I'm planning to do that someday
Très beau travail
Merci :)
nicely done , where do you buy your insert from , can you leave me a link to those dcmt insert?
Thank you very much! I bought them on the used marked. They were new but much cheaper than buying it new in a shop. I think Korloy was the name of the manufacturer.
Round insert or very large corner radius will also improve your surface finish.
Good point, yes!
Muito bom mesmo, excelente. Gosto de ver capricho assim. Parabéns.
Nice
Works better than I would have expected considering the size of your mill. What is the diameter?
Thanks. 50mm in diameter.
What is the solution name that you using for cold bluing
It is from the company Ballistol. It was a set in a small case with cold bluing solution, degreaser spray and oil spray. Works very well for my purpose.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter can you please make a video as doing cold bluing by showing bottles and spary
All work is nice but why you made a large chamfer 7:45 on rotary table instead of lathe machine its a better option than mill
Isn't 6 mm a little too thin for spinning a flycuttter? I would have went with at least 12 mill. The rest is perfect.
You mean the 6mm shank for clamping? Yes, it is definitely a bit thin. But I had no other choice as the proxxon mill only takes up to 6mm collets. I can't clamp anything bigger than that :/ The cuts I made so far worked well.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter I didn't know you were already maxed out. Good job then doing what you could with what you had
What brand of cold blue do you use? I’ve tried quite a few and can’t seem to achieve that nice of a finish
Hallo! Wirklich wirklich tolle Arbeit! Ich verneige mich! Ist diese Drehmaschine von Artec die mit 250mm Spitzenweite? Ich frage weil ich die gleiche habe und nur mal wissen wollte wie sich die Kunststoff Zahnräder im Vorschub getriebe abnutzen, oder ob es da keine Probleme gibt.
Hallo. Vielen Dank, zu viel der Ehre;) Ja, die Maschine ist von Artec, sie hat aber eine Spitzenweite von 300mm, nicht 250mm. Zumindest meine :) Stimmt, die Vorschubzahnräder sind aus Kunststoff. So oft benutze ich die nicht, deswegen halten bis jetzt noch alle. Es gab noch keine Ausfälle. Es gibt aber so für 60-80€ einen ganzen Satz Ersatzzahnräder aus Metall. Hab mir das auch schonmal überlegt, die anzuschaffen.
@@WeCanDoThatBetter Bitte mehr davon. Man kann sooo viel dazulernen. Vielen Dank für die Tipps mit den Zahnrädern!
Hi ! Do you have a good opinion of this proxxon milling machine? Because I hesitate to order it.
Hi, it depends on what you want do do with the machine and how much money and space you have. For small things as I use it, the machine is fine and it needs not a lot of space and is not that heavy that you can move it around. But off course due to the light weight it tends to chatter and is not that solid. I'm happy with it for small work but a little bit heavier would be good.
What RPM used in this cut?, I need to make one to face aluminum plates, but I am not able to balance
Hi, I can't tell it exactly but I guess it was around 2000 rpm in that range.
Hey don't you need to angle the carbide tip so that the back of tip doesn't drag across the work?. Only the front of the tip touches the work.
Looks pretty. (What's a fly cutter..?)
Had this video in my recommended thingies, but I don't know machining terminology...
Maybe a small explanation (just a picture + picture of what it's used for) beforehand would be helpful :)
Hi and thanks for your comment and feedback. I'll keep that in mind. A fly cutter is the name for a milling tool with (mostly) only one cutting edge flying around in the orbit :) It is relatively easy to make and good for cleaning up larger surfaces on the mill and for creating good surface finishes.
Cutting that large chamfer might have been better the use a vee cutter in the horizontal setup rather than doing it how you did . it would have been more rigid
Thanks for your comment! I thought quite long how to machine this. Your idea might probably is better, but I had not the right tool to machine it this way. So I tried it the way I did. Not the best way ;)
For a fly cutter that's only meant to handle very light cuts I think I would have gone for one that takes the soldered carbide bits that you can sharpen on a diamond wheel. The type of inserts you are using are never really sharp as they are meant for taking far heavier cuts than your fly cutter could handle. The soldered ones can be made razor sharp, which makes for less power consumption and better finish if you get the geometry right.
Would be an option too. But than you need a different kind of tool which can take a soldered turning tool.
The C in the dcmt describe the angle
And C always stands for 7 degree angle
good to know! :)
Muito bom mesmo
So the fly cutter body is just glued to the shaft? Is that safe enought?
It is additionally held in place with a set screw. But the loctite glues are extremely durable these days.
Nicely made Dude! TFS, GB :)
Thank you!
👍👍👍👍👍👍✌️
Não seria mais fácil tornear em ângulo os chanfros?
The problem was that the chamfer isn't going all the way around the tool. At the point where the insert sits, I wanted no chamfer to have as much material as possible to support the cutting insert.
hi teacher how I can't take result without lines like in grinder machine cylinder head
Fantastic. Can you make one for me and st what price. Thanks
Dennis Anghelatos
Jolie travail de conception pour fabriquer un outils.
Mais vue l'état de surface plutôt bon et vue la plaquette que vous utilisez,je suppose que c'est de l'aluminium sur une passe de 0.4/0.5 dixièmes .
Il ne serais pas plus judicieux d'utiliser un tourteau a 6 plaquette ,le résultat seras meilleur a mon avis .
Merci beaucoup. Oui 6 plaquettes seraient meilleures mais mais cela demanderait plus de travail de fabriquer ;)
👍👍👍
Does this work on actual flies?
;)
Very nice job!
Thanks!
Good realisation but you Turn too fast on the lathe. If you Turn steel like C45 with carbide tool use 120-160m/min. So for a 50 diamètre : 890 r/min
For HSS tool use 25m/min
It's just an andvice
Try adding some lubricant to lower the vibrations
Yes. But than I have a mess around :D
Подписался За заставку. Дальше глянем что тут )
Thanks!
First clip hahahahahaha oh my god :D
;)
Thanks for this video..Can you send me this jobs drawing,please?
Gluing in the shank hurt 😭 press fit, or shrink fit only.. gonna get yourself hurt.
reamer:That's a lot of damage
Hi
0:43 it is to fast....max 200 rpm or slower
Hi, yes that was probably to much spindle speed. I guess changing the spindle bearings would bring more rigidity too.
а закрасил черным что бы казалось что каленое?))
⭐🙂👍!
your lathe need new bearings...
Oh yes, that's definitely something to do in the future. Switching to tapered roller bearing.
Bulldog engineering cause we're ruff ruff ruff lol 😂
? I think I don't get it :)
Уважаю
А как режет сталь
You really ought to learn the correct cutting speeds for materials. You were running the lathe way too fast for that steel. Steel should be cut at 100 feet per minute. Cast iron is 80 feet per minute. The cuts were not too much for the lathe it was too many rpm’s and no coolant.
Yes, it was probably to fast for that heavy cut.
🤣😂🤣😂🥰🥰🥰🥰
Hm m, interesting.🤔