A Simple Chuck Modification to Improve Parallelism of Your Parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2024
- This video will show a simple and inexpensive modification you can make to your lathe chuck for amazing second side parallelism. You don't need costly soft jaws for fantastic results. Take a look.
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Our shop closes down between Christmas and New Years. I came across this video while I was off. Yesterday was our first day back. The first job they gave me was 4 saw cut pieces just like you had in the video. Work's little slow lately, and the parts weren't due out for a few days, so I decided to try this setup. There's a bit of time in the initial investment, but now that everything is set up I can use this again and again whenever I need to
Joe, "elegantly simple" must be one of your mantras. This is great. It's quick, easy, to implement, hard to screw up. I know this vid is way back in your rear view mirror, but it's still educating people. Thank you.
Joe you never cease to amaze me So simple yet so effective After 52 years in the trade it's little things like this make me want to kick myself It's always great to watch a master of his trade Keep up the good work Joe as I will be looking forward to the next video Pete from the UK
Thanks Pete.
Great idea. I can say that because I've used that for 35 years. I had a great teacher when I was stationed on Korea. He had been a machinist for 60 years. Didn't speak a word of English but we understood each other perfectly. Guy could drink me under the table too.
Not a machinist, just an IT guy who likes to learn from smart people. Started watching AvE, then Abom79 and after poking on other videos that the algos suggested, I finally landed here. Your efficiency of delivery, techniques, and talent are top-notch. When I go back to tech, I'll be working in data centers, so I welcome these lessons mechanical and verbal competency.
Thank you very much for the compliment.
Joe and This Old Tony do some pretty neat stuff.
Just came across this video, I've been a US Navy trained machinist for over 50 years and this is one of the coolest tricks I've ever seen. I'm going out to my shop right now and do this mod to ALL of my lathe chucks. This trick is genius. Thanks Joe
Good to hear. You're going to like this.
Whenever I need to machine a thin part, I get a parallel, sit it on the bottom two jaws, resting against the face of the chuck and push my part up against that. Just some advice for people that aren't in a position to modify their chuck.
Great video, really clever.
I started watching and i said to myself, "I'm not gonna drill my chuck." I watched the whole thing and I said to myself, "I could set up a jig to do that drilling pretty quickly." Subscribed...
Thanks. Once the threaded holes are in the chuck face, the setup is very quick when needed.
Old Dog learns new trick..... Thanks Joe, I will be doing this mod myself at first opportunity.
Yep.
Nice set up. I have used .125" thick parallel bars off the chuck face. Rotate the 3-jaw chuck so one jaw is pointing up. This allows you to lay one parallel across the 2 lower jaws, while you hold the second parallel higher, and pinch it against the chuck face with your work piece as you tighten the jaws. Just don't forget to slide out the parallels before you turn on the spindle. :)
Joe, I just wanted to thank you, along with other TH-cam machinists, with inspiring me to make a late-in-life career change. I've enrolled in my local comm. college and have recently started making chips of my own. I find that I am enjoying making small bits of metal out of larger bits of metal. :)
You sir, make me smack my forehead everytime you produce a video! "why didnt I think of that?! Ive been doing it the hard way all this time!!" Thank you, for each and every one of your videos!
Simplicity is beauty
Wel Joe,i am a beginner and learnt more from you than from a school that i have to pay for.
Thanks a lot for teaching us so that we can work safer and faster.
Greatings from Hans in Holland
Greetings Hans. I happy to help.
I'm interested in machining and my next big purchases will be a mill and a lathe. You have yourself another subscriber.
Ron Rico welcome aboard
Man that's so dam simple it's genus.
Even though I am strictly a manual machinist, I did enjoy watching the CNC series. The chuck modification is a great idea. and beats fumbling with loose parallels when making a set-up. Thanks for sharing.
I see a couple of people have made comments about the fact that their lathes/chucks/jaws must be so much better, more accurate etc etc. That’s all well and good, but for those of us who don’t own a super expensive lathe and/or mill this is a great idea. Thank you.
I'm not sure how I missed this! I've seen a lot of your videos Joe and as soon as I've pressed the 'comment' button I'll head into my workshop and put the chuck on the mill. I'm a huge fan of soft jaws as my small cnc machine doesn't have a tailstock (yet) but this will add another dimension to my conventional turning. Thanks once again from the UK.
Job for the weekend.
1. drill and tap holes in my chuck.
Thanks Joe! The AR milling was very satisfying to watch :)
Great video. As a newbie to the lathe I found your way of achieving the same thing a spider does so much more useful. I have been searching for weeks on how to build a spider without a milling machine. Not only that it will be easy to make different lengths with your method , and to think you were able to explain and demonstrate in a matter of minutes the most common sense way of getting around a problem. You also got a new subscriber. Thanks for taking the time to help others like me.
Thanks. Make sure to hit that subscribe button to seal the deal.
Great idea! I can't believe that many people gave it a thumbs down.
10 out of 10 Joe. Once again your lateral thinking shines through! I've mucked around with spacers, and held the workpiece thereon with the tailstock and centre, but I never twigged on to your idea. Sometimes the bleeding obvious is to difficult to see.
Well done.
Pete
I'm 75, not a machinist. I've had a 12x48 Atlas/ Craftsman, now an old SB 10". Jet mill drill. I don't use them much, and probably not very good. Even so the videos I've seen of yours are VERY helpful to get my old mind jacked up, and make one think.
USN, 68-74, ET-R2, NAS Miramar, 70-74, maintained GCA RADAR and TACAN
I like how you make most all of your special tooling instead of buying it.
Something that confounds me to no end with other people.
The other is how you dont just copy what the other ones are doing and go your own way.
A true professional.
Please continue on.
Thanks.
Thank you sir.
Man Joe...I really think your channel is a gift to TH-cam and especially to newbie machinists like me! I’ve learned a TON from your videos! Please keep em coming! 🤙 All the best man!!!
Joe great teacher!!! great stuff! thank you
Hey Jimmy. Thanks for stopping by. If you have any specific questions and Kevin L. isn't around, shoot me a message. I'll help you if I can. Take care.
Yet another great tip - I have lost count Joe of all the super useful stuff you have given us. This to me sure beats a spider... love it.
Thanks. Glad to do it.
Joe, I've been a Tool & Die Maker for 45 years and that by far the best lathe tip ever. I'm heading out to the shop now to drill and tap my 3 jaw chuck. Thank you very much Sir!
I appreciate the comment. I just got tired of fighting jaw movement on older chucks, bored or not. This is bullet proof. Enjoy.
thank's Joe
A good idea, for making the stopper/block on the jaws, i will try it. Wish U luck Brother!!!!!
Up until now, as a hobbyist, I struggled with putting my material up against parallels and still did not get the results I wanted. This technique is just too simple. Thank you.
Good luck. It works well.
Not really into the AR-15 hobby but I enjoyed the series. I appreciate the way your videos move at a good pace. The right amount of information well delivered. Your work methods have helped me learn some very efficient ways to save a lot of time.
Excellent. Glad to help.
I think you are a very smart man,
Also you are answering people in your comment section. Thank you. Atlas 10F 54 just learning at 60.
I try to keep up with all the comments, but they come in pretty fast over this channel. Thanks for the comment.
Great solution for this problem. Thank you Joe.
Just got an idea.
You can leave the chuck in the lathe with the jaws out and use the lathe cross slide cross slide dial and tool post to mark out the places the holes need to be.
Hand rotate of course.
Very accurate and fast.
Worth
Good Idea! Ive seen Keith Fenner do that to scribe rings into his 4-jaw as well, as a reference to set the jaws uniformly.
Joe, I watched this again today and appreciates your kindness in helping the rest of us. Now I have to still and tap my chuck. Thank you
Excellent! Learning to not be afraid to modify/improve tooling such as chucks.
That is badass!!!!
I wish you were my tech instructor, or did an apprenticeship under you.
Thank you for sharing.
I appreciate that.
Thanks Joe - my parallels will stay by the mill now!
Always a pleasure to see and learn from a true pro, with true knowledge.
You make everything look so easy.
Thank you. Its taken a while, but I think I got it figured out.
brilliant idea - so simple.
Joe, whenever I get to the point of being able to setup my shop I'll always come back to your videos for setup, you have the best and easiest setups I've ever seen and thank you for taking time out of your day to share your knowledge
This was so simple I cant understand why nobody has shown it before. Brilliant!!
This is a great way of assuring parallelism, and cheap to do! Thank You! JD
Its rock solid.
The best and Most useful videos I have ever found on TH-cam
Thank you for the compliment.
Awesome idea Joe , I've been a toolmaker/ machinist for 40 yrs and the one thing about this field there's always something new to learn I just started watching your videos always something interesting keep up the good work Thanks
Nice. This works very well and doesn't scratch the part.
I definitely will do this . I like the part that you can reface the post and be certain of parallelism . Thanks
When you reface the standoff, zero your digital or indicator. When you back the carriage away, you have an automatic thickness setting for that tool.
I love this trick!!! Thanks Joe!
Another awesome way to do it better, thanks again Joe.
I rarely see a tip/ trick that I haven't seen or used before but this one qualifies and when I get time I think I'll be drilling some holes in my lathe chuck to use this trick myself. thanks for the tip
You're welcome
Dear Sir ......wow from down under in Sydney Australia , this is the most Brilliant approach to maintain Parallelism , most of all Thank You for sharing your Idea ...
Thank you Sir, I've learnt something new today. I find your videos fantastic
That was great Joe!
This work very well.
Great tips. I have told several of my coworkers about you and your TH-cam channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for getting back to your patented instructional videos. The AR series was entertaining. However, you are the best - if not only, video maker that finds a common machining problem and offers a logical step by step solution. Other videos are of the "here, watch me do this" verity. Keep up the tremendous work.
Good Tip
Great idea but for a one off part I take and face off a disc of aluminum in the chuck and then superglue my part face to it doesn't matter if it's round or square or not centered whatever then just heat up the part to release the Superglue works fantastic you can turn to a very thin thickness to
I think my gunsmithing machining professor would kill me if I did this, but I am going to put this in a playlist for when I open my shop, this is beautiful, now let's pray I can find a decent lathe and a mill when the time comes lol.
Hopefully you'll also have the cash that day. :)
You can get away with laying parallels across the jaws. Of course you take them out before you spin up. Set the chuck with one jaw on top, two on the bottom and lay a parallel across the bottom jaws. Set your puck in on the bottom jaws and against the parallel, barely snug the chuck. Slip the second one in under the jaw on top. Gentle tap with a soft hammer and tighten up the chuck. Alternatively, you can hold the part in place with the tailstock. Parallels should still slip out and feel about like joeblocks. Not too bad for a onesy/twosy job.
I appreciate your channel so much - it's real world, experience-driven, pro-shop stuff that I would likely never think of, presented quickly, understandably, and clearly. What's not to love?
Thank you very much.
Thank You that a great Idea.
I use it all the time.
Excellent little tip here. Thanks for sharing.
Once again, you have proved that less is more when solving problems. Thanks.
I'm using this setup today. It works like a charm.
every time i have an issue with something there is something on your channel that fixes it.
Incredible... As always... The best ideas, are looking very simple.. thank you for sharing...
you are the great master
Love your videos, Joe. Simple, effective, down to earth advice that anybody can learn from. Thanks for what you do!
Thank you
I have been in machining all my adult life, (about 35 years in many shops), and earned several degrees in manufacturing. There is not too much I have not seen. But this is new to me and a great method, especially if you are doing more than one part. For one part, I have used parallel bars between the work-piece the the chuck face. You have to hold one bar while you twist the chuck key, but you snug it, tap it with a dead blow, tighten more, tap again, and slide out the parallel bars. .001" out of parallel can be expected. This vid is a very accurate method with a quick part change that can justify some larger volumes of work. In that case, I might make the pillars out of 4140 prehard. Hard enough to last a long time, but still machinable.
Hey, looking at your shop at the beginning. Wanna sell a door or two? :)
Elegant!
You have very clean shop, mine looks like sanford and sons yard.
Thank you. I do a lot of medical devices here, so appearance is important. Plus I hate working knee deep in chips and dirt.
Thanks Joe
Joe - After years of beg, borrowing and stealing lathe time I finally have one now. I make my car parts, and have watched many of your videos. Learnt a huge amount. Thank you and keep them coming!
Feel free to ask a question if you get stuck.
Neat trick
Excellent video,love the way you explain things with no nonsense direct and to the point! Ok time for a noob question since I am one. Do you think it would be wise when you make standoffs like you did to mark them so they always end up in the same spot on the chuck to keep the perfect accuracy? Again thanks for the great video's and yes I still hate spiders lol
Doesn't matter, true them with the tool every time if you have to.
I learn at one thing amongst everything else from each of your videos, this time the adjustable heels on the clamps, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I really like your style! Your thinking out of the box and simplifying tasks is great! And then passing on that info to us! (82 year old and still kicking)
very good for thinner parts and not only for parallelism, but repeatability across multiple parts or when you want to take the part out, you can replace it exactly in the chuck. thanks so much for sharing! subbing!
Every video you make is excellent. I don't know how you get thumbs down. I'm about to clean up my fathers lathe and vertical mill they are covered in dust and grime. What do you reccomend for cleaning them?
Get the dust off first. A shop vac works well for that. ZEP makes a great line of purple degreasers, and most home centers also have purple power products.
Thank You Joe.I have spent a life time boring out soft jaws and have wasted a small fortune hunting out replacement soft jaws.I owe you one.Kevin Behan .Autoturn Engineering.London.
The initial setup takes some effort, but after that is quick and super accurate.
As someone new to the machining discipline i appreciate you simple yet extremely helpful explanatioms and tips. Thanks for a great channel
Could just use parallels to square up the part tighten remove parallels.
You can. Many people do.
I thought about the parallels, but like the idea of something solid behind the plate. Great video. Haven't done a lot of machining since high school, 47 years ago, but am thinking about setting up a home shop, now that I have time on my hands. Us old dogs do like new tricks. I got a lot of lathe time in high school because I was willing to learn to use a huge 4 jawed turret lathe that no one else would touch. Learned to love that lathe.
You could, but then it'd be a bit of a balancing act even if you got into the rhythm of it. For one-offs parallels is better, for large quantities, standoffs is more convenient imo.
yep
I have used parallels
Excellent demonstration. But what you will do if the same part has small diameter?
A single parallel slipped between two of the jaws (lay the flat across the jaws) that you back the part up against is a quick-n-dirty solution. In fact, I just used it to make a set of standoffs to mount a control transformer on its side and they all came in at 20.165mm +/- 0.005 (ie - about 2 tenths imperial). File under: it's better to be lucky than good.
Great tip. It also makes it easier for measuring.
It does.
I watched this some time ago. Came back to view it and picked up a few tips that I don't recall noting the first time I viewed the video. Thanks for the excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That's a damn slick modification!!
Curious why you didn’t flip the jaws around
Other people asked the same matter in other comments, and the reply is that reversing the jaws, if the piece to be worked "seats" in the internal jaws steps AND it's not so thick, you have to work with the highter steps of the jaws running outside. Moreover i say that fixing the piece only with the jaws is not so much accurate than setting the piece on the studs and THAN fix it with the jaws . . .
Both my chucks have received this modification. It really makes a difference now I am getting the kind of results that I have wanted all along. Thanks Joe!!!
Once again Joe knocks it out of the park... Thanks
I likey
Works like a charm.
Looks like you've done this before?
That technique is GOLD and a huge thank you to you for sharing!
It works really well.
Great tip , older video just found it but will see if it's a usable one on my lathe when i get to the stage to need something that accurate thanks
what a waste of time. on all new chucks the face of your chuck runs true - if not face it. it is repetable if you take your chuck off the machine.
then go to the mill and stick two paralells between your part and the chuck.
thighten chuck. use hammer to tap it until both paralls are tight.
take paralells out.
face 2nd side. you will get better than 0,02mm. no drilling, no standoffs.
Greets from Germany.
But you do have to tell the boss you need a mill so you can face both sides of a part. thats going to end well. Good luck.
@@joepie221 No just take the Paralells from the mill and then go back to the lathe.
@@Hardcor3crash When I developed this solution, I was doing exclusively semiconductor work. Building the plates that handle wafers during their coating and processing. Surface flatness, part parallelism and surface finish were absolutely critical to an acceptable part. Though your technique of using mill parallels will work if snug, the fact that you can remove them would indicate the part wouldn't be parallel to this degree. If you had to tap the parallels out, the track left behind on the part, would have scrapped all the parts I was working on. I even had to be careful of tapping my parts against any standoff for fear of leaving a cloud on the part where it registered. Parallels are OK in a pinch, but this is better.
you are so correct man, thats what paralles are for
more greetings from Germany
@@lokkas3637 I need to know who you are in agreement with before I reply.
Joe - thanks for the AR series! It was AWESOME!
Thanks. I was pleased with the outcome.
You’re a great machinist and teacher joe! I really appreciate your videos!!! Keep up the good work!
Thank you
What an absolutely simple but effective modification so thank you Joe
It solved a nagging problem for me and produced nearly perfect parts.
You sir are a wealth of knowledge,easy to follow and spot on. I really enjoy your videos. Thank you very much.
rick b
Very good Joe. I love your work. Thanks Mate.
One of the best tips I've seen in a long time
You have so many quick set up tips, you should write a book. I have learned so much from your videos. Keep up the good work.