Some hints. If you get the MSD ( material safety data sheet) on each product, you can find out what it is. Chances are the cleaner is something common you can get generically cheaper. The metal prep is almost certainly Phosphoric Acid... available cheap locally ( home depot metal etch/prep). When using the metal prep on a rusted tank ( such as this one) use sharp clean gravel ( or bright screws and nuts) and agitate it vigorously, this will mechanically remove the rust... so you don't have those crusty lumps left. Use stuff big enough to get out easily. Steel nuts will come out with a magnet.. which is handy. Do the same rinsing as before. When I do it.. I neutralize the acid with baking soda and water, then rinse. They are telling you to phosphotize the remaining rust... I would rather not have anything crusty at all. If you have an electric oil filled RADIATOR TYPE Heater...lay your tank on that- set on low - overnight.. and it will be thoroughly dry . When letting the coating sit to cure after rotating it to spread it out untill you puke...I think it is preferable to let it sit upside down. Then, if there any chance of puddling... which could eventually fail...it would be at the very top...rather than at the bottom. any eventual failure there... you can feel with your finger inside the filler hole...and it would also be easiest to repair, and least likely to introduce rust into your fuel. IMHO.
I noticed after draining the sealer back into its tin that it only used ⅓ of the contents so basically I reckon if you had enough degreaser you could easily do two fuel tanks with one kit :D
Exactly. Those who complain about flaking are those who don't let it get bone dry before applying the sealant. That's a crucial step. It has to be completely dry
I think it's fine Nev, not sure I mentioned it but I ran a bead of JB Weld along the seam too...belt n braces but I didn't fancy welding it as I'm not sure how thin that metal has got and I could end up in a right Royal Pickle :)
I’ve worked on old motorcycles my whole life motorcycle junk yard private shops dealerships I’ve never seen a good tank coat ever they all seem to let go at some point. Nothing worse than seeing that crap floating around in your gas! I just pour hands full of nuts and bolts into the tank and shake till I’m wore out then flush it out with more gas and a magnet . That’s been the best I ever seen. Once the moisture is out they’ll stop rusting.
I have an imported Honda that had that Kreem stuff inside the tank, it was flying off like curtains in large parts but stuck like cement in others, managed to get it all out eventually. This POR15 is brill if you do it right, sets like concrete and is a good 'back up' for an old tank.
Prep is absolutely everything. Ethanol eats almost all tank coatings. POR is MEK solvent based. Should stand up to ethanol. I used to use 3M EC776R red fuel resistant coating. Almost $400 a quart now. The clear version is NOT ethanol resistant. and I don't know about the R anymore. Aviation stuff than made my BMWs run forever... back before ethanol.
i don't understand why it has to be completely dry after the de-greaser. All you are going to do is get it wet all over again with the rust removing agent, which would remove any flashing of rust anyhow. So isn't it a bit pointless at the degreaser stage making sure it's totally dry?
I had to watch it again lol. I didn't need to dry the tank between the two cleaning cycles as that was pointless but before the Metal Prep you do need to dry it first (just following the instructions). :)
Very usefull. Can I ask did you do any other prep before putting the degreaser in?. Such as washing it out with anything else? I am looking to do this to my bike tank. There is alot of flakes of loose rust in the tank. I have shaken out what I can, but was just wondering if the degreaser is meant to be shifting this too?
Not on this tank Baz but I would put something in there to break down the flaky bits if there were any. People use small chains or count out some nuts and throw them in and give them a good shake around, count them all out too :) In the past I have completely filled a tank with Evapo-Rust and had excellent results. HTH Cheers Ian
@@HepcatHarley Thanks for the reply Ian. Had my bike from new 2005. Sat for a while and wouldn't start (a few weeks ago). The fuel pump slots into the tank and was so sludged with rust/gunk, when I removed it. Decided to get another second hand pump, which looks much better. Even now the tank is dry the amount of flakes of rust that came out have shocked me. As my bike is always in a garage , and there was a fair bit of fuel in the tank. So ordered some Evapo-rust and will try the chain/nuts with it first. Ta for the info/help.
I would wash with hot soap and water. Then YOU MUST degrease before you use Evaporust... but it is superior to using Phosphoric acid, safe and easy. If you fill the tank completely with evaporust.. and set it on an electric radiator heater to get the temp up to 90-110 degrees F... it will work in a few hours and better than at room temp...wont "work at all" below 70F. i mean not in our life time. ⚠
I'm trying to clean and seal my motorcycle tank But I see good and bad reviews about not to use it Does it work good if Done right have any of you checked How the tank looks after a year
If your tank is leaking I'd definitely sort out the leak first, welding or brazing etc. Don't cut corners with the POR-15 treatment, do exactly as it says in the instructions...them that say it doesn't work are most likely them who didn't follow the procedures correctly or thoroughly. You cannot reapply this treatment if you get it wrong.
most people will NOT do the prep properly, no matter what they use. Most stuff now will fail. There is some stuff sold by Aviation Spruce and Specialy..that is $20 pint... isocyante based.. not flexible..but ethanol proof for sure.
Have read way too many failures with this product. I think the problem is getting the crap out of the tank and getting it perfectly clean. Rust remover and cleaning solutions don't work as well at you might think. I've been soaking a tank for about a week now using rust remover, drain and use vinegar and there is still crap in there. I think I'll try some muratic acid next.
I think in extreme cases it's always important to verify each process has been successful by using an endoscope type of camera. I remember I had a devil of a job getting my Honda CB200 tank thoroughly clean and getting rid of previously failed Kreem sealer. I tried all sorts, MEK, Acetone, Phosphoric acid etc but yes Muriatic acid should do the trick. Good luck :)
First...you MUST remove all Grease, Oil, and Gum. All Of IT! For this you need a real SOLVENT. Paint thinner ( stoddard solvent) is good if you can get it. Follow up with Acetone or MEK... if you can keep it off your paint. No rust remover will work where the metal has any oil on it. Not acid, not Evaporust.. Then use the best rust remover you can ..and use it right. Filled with HOT Evaporust... all rust will be removed and no solid steel will be removed. Rinse very well...using a bristle brush and hot water. Dry on a heater untill bone dry. Now whatever you use..WILL stick. POR 15 resin.. and MEK is the solvent for it. Never use anything in your fuel that has MEK in it.
Do not use Por-15 to line gas tanks for your motorcycle. It will fail. After several months, my por-15 is now breaking off in pieces and clogging my carbs with this silver powder as it dissolves. Do not use it. Por-15 is great for other things, just no good for lining a gas tank. I am in search for a solution. My thought is to clean out the tank, dry it, and use Cream or a 3M Cream liner over my por-15 as there is no way to get all of it out of my tank. No way!! This is a bad fail for sure. Such a disappointment as it will take hours and hours to re-do everything. What a mess!!!! I wish someone made a fuel bladder to stick in my tank and go that route. That would mess with the fuel gage sending unit though. Boy what a mess I am in.
The Golden Rule is to follow the instructions to the letter and make sure you've done the prep properly. If you can honestly say that you have then take it up with the manufacturer as maybe it was a bad batch, they'd know. I've done at least three tanks and all have been perfect. I bought an old 70's Honda with Kreem in the tank it was coming off in strips inside the tank and I was in a complete mess as you are, keep going and good luck.
@@HepcatHarley I would rather have plastic strips than silver powder. Actually I want neither. I want a liner that will not dissolve. My guess is POR-15 can not resist Ethanol. Also. Suzuki should have never made such crappy fuel tanks. My Harleys and Hondas do not have this problem.
@@HepcatHarley ya cream is hooooorrible ha. Por 15 pealed off super easy too for me. Red kote is pretty good but I feel like all of these fail within a year or two. I bought a tank once a guy said was nickel dipped so wouldn’t leak. Never heard of that but maybe works
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Some hints. If you get the MSD ( material safety data sheet) on each product, you can find out what it is. Chances are the cleaner is something common you can get generically cheaper. The metal prep is almost certainly Phosphoric Acid... available cheap locally ( home depot metal etch/prep). When using the metal prep on a rusted tank ( such as this one) use sharp clean gravel ( or bright screws and nuts) and agitate it vigorously, this will mechanically remove the rust... so you don't have those crusty lumps left. Use stuff big enough to get out easily. Steel nuts will come out with a magnet.. which is handy. Do the same rinsing as before. When I do it.. I neutralize the acid with baking soda and water, then rinse. They are telling you to phosphotize the remaining rust... I would rather not have anything crusty at all. If you have an electric oil filled RADIATOR TYPE Heater...lay your tank on that- set on low - overnight.. and it will be thoroughly dry . When letting the coating sit to cure after rotating it to spread it out untill you puke...I think it is preferable to let it sit upside down. Then, if there any chance of puddling... which could eventually fail...it would be at the very top...rather than at the bottom. any eventual failure there... you can feel with your finger inside the filler hole...and it would also be easiest to repair, and least likely to introduce rust into your fuel. IMHO.
Time well spent on the tank it will make such a difference to the life of the inside. 🏍👍
Thanks John yes it seems to have saved me a lot of hassle by finding them leaks for me before I went too far with the painting etc.
Thanks for this ,
I like the way the dog keeps coming back to see who you’re talking to 😂
Dave never misses anything :D
POR15 is the best tank sealer out there. Great product and works very well if applied correctly.
I noticed after draining the sealer back into its tin that it only used ⅓ of the contents so basically I reckon if you had enough degreaser you could easily do two fuel tanks with one kit :D
@@HepcatHarley It's 100% effective half of the time
Easy way to fix pin holes=solder
Exactly. Those who complain about flaking are those who don't let it get bone dry before applying the sealant. That's a crucial step. It has to be completely dry
Excellent clear and very helpful video!! Thanks.
Well fingers crossed 🤞 the sealer does the job My Lord.
I think it's fine Nev, not sure I mentioned it but I ran a bead of JB Weld along the seam too...belt n braces but I didn't fancy welding it as I'm not sure how thin that metal has got and I could end up in a right Royal Pickle :)
I’ve worked on old motorcycles my whole life motorcycle junk yard private shops dealerships I’ve never seen a good tank coat ever they all seem to let go at some point. Nothing worse than seeing that crap floating around in your gas! I just pour hands full of nuts and bolts into the tank and shake till I’m wore out then flush it out with more gas and a magnet . That’s been the best I ever seen. Once the moisture is out they’ll stop rusting.
I have an imported Honda that had that Kreem stuff inside the tank, it was flying off like curtains in large parts but stuck like cement in others, managed to get it all out eventually. This POR15 is brill if you do it right, sets like concrete and is a good 'back up' for an old tank.
Prep is absolutely everything. Ethanol eats almost all tank coatings. POR is MEK solvent based. Should stand up to ethanol. I used to use 3M EC776R red fuel resistant coating. Almost $400 a quart now. The clear version is NOT ethanol resistant. and I don't know about the R anymore. Aviation stuff than made my BMWs run forever... back before ethanol.
i don't understand why it has to be completely dry after the de-greaser. All you are going to do is get it wet all over again with the rust removing agent, which would remove any flashing of rust anyhow. So isn't it a bit pointless at the degreaser stage making sure it's totally dry?
I had to watch it again lol. I didn't need to dry the tank between the two cleaning cycles as that was pointless but before the Metal Prep you do need to dry it first (just following the instructions). :)
@@HepcatHarley Thanks!
This was helpful, thanks.
Very usefull. Can I ask did you do any other prep before putting the degreaser in?. Such as washing it out with anything else? I am looking to do this to my bike tank. There is alot of flakes of loose rust in the tank. I have shaken out what I can, but was just wondering if the degreaser is meant to be shifting this too?
Not on this tank Baz but I would put something in there to break down the flaky bits if there were any. People use small chains or count out some nuts and throw them in and give them a good shake around, count them all out too :) In the past I have completely filled a tank with Evapo-Rust and had excellent results. HTH Cheers Ian
@@HepcatHarley Thanks for the reply Ian. Had my bike from new 2005. Sat for a while and wouldn't start (a few weeks ago). The fuel pump slots into the tank and was so sludged with rust/gunk, when I removed it. Decided to get another second hand pump, which looks much better. Even now the tank is dry the amount of flakes of rust that came out have shocked me. As my bike is always in a garage , and there was a fair bit of fuel in the tank. So ordered some Evapo-rust and will try the chain/nuts with it first. Ta for the info/help.
I would wash with hot soap and water. Then YOU MUST degrease before you use Evaporust... but it is superior to using Phosphoric acid, safe and easy. If you fill the tank completely with evaporust.. and set it on an electric radiator heater to get the temp up to 90-110 degrees F... it will work in a few hours and better than at room temp...wont "work at all" below 70F. i mean not in our life time.
⚠
Better than the old creme coat eh? Gloves the stuff does not come off with near any solvents.
Most definitely
I'm trying to clean and seal my motorcycle tank But I see good and bad reviews about not to use it Does it work good if Done right have any of you checked How the tank looks after a year
If your tank is leaking I'd definitely sort out the leak first, welding or brazing etc. Don't cut corners with the POR-15 treatment, do exactly as it says in the instructions...them that say it doesn't work are most likely them who didn't follow the procedures correctly or thoroughly. You cannot reapply this treatment if you get it wrong.
most people will NOT do the prep properly, no matter what they use. Most stuff now will fail. There is some stuff sold by Aviation Spruce and Specialy..that is $20 pint... isocyante based.. not flexible..but ethanol proof for sure.
Have read way too many failures with this product. I think the problem is getting the crap out of the tank and getting it perfectly clean. Rust remover and cleaning solutions don't work as well at you might think. I've been soaking a tank for about a week now using rust remover, drain and use vinegar and there is still crap in there. I think I'll try some muratic acid next.
I think in extreme cases it's always important to verify each process has been successful by using an endoscope type of camera. I remember I had a devil of a job getting my Honda CB200 tank thoroughly clean and getting rid of previously failed Kreem sealer. I tried all sorts, MEK, Acetone, Phosphoric acid etc but yes Muriatic acid should do the trick. Good luck :)
First...you MUST remove all Grease, Oil, and Gum. All Of IT! For this you need a real SOLVENT. Paint thinner ( stoddard solvent) is good if you can get it. Follow up with Acetone or MEK... if you can keep it off your paint. No rust remover will work where the metal has any oil on it. Not acid, not Evaporust.. Then use the best rust remover you can ..and use it right. Filled with HOT Evaporust... all rust will be removed and no solid steel will be removed. Rinse very well...using a bristle brush and hot water. Dry on a heater untill bone dry. Now whatever you use..WILL stick. POR 15 resin.. and MEK is the solvent for it. Never use anything in your fuel that has MEK in it.
Used it on my RD it’s great stuff :)
It is but the process is dead boring, not for the impatient lol
@@HepcatHarley ah but you’ve got a new doggo to help, soooo cute 🥰
Did it plug the crossover pipes on your RD tank?
@@RM-ru8yn yes it did.
Is profit team better or the k b s
so what you're saying🤔 is if you have any dents in your gas tank go ahead and put the cap on it and it'll pop the dance out
good idea dude
Good luck 💯👍
Thanks Tom :)
@@HepcatHarley ofcourse man 👍💯
Do not use Por-15 to line gas tanks for your motorcycle. It will fail. After several months, my por-15 is now breaking off in pieces and clogging my carbs with this silver powder as it dissolves. Do not use it. Por-15 is great for other things, just no good for lining a gas tank. I am in search for a solution. My thought is to clean out the tank, dry it, and use Cream or a 3M Cream liner over my por-15 as there is no way to get all of it out of my tank. No way!! This is a bad fail for sure. Such a disappointment as it will take hours and hours to re-do everything. What a mess!!!! I wish someone made a fuel bladder to stick in my tank and go that route. That would mess with the fuel gage sending unit though. Boy what a mess I am in.
The Golden Rule is to follow the instructions to the letter and make sure you've done the prep properly. If you can honestly say that you have then take it up with the manufacturer as maybe it was a bad batch, they'd know. I've done at least three tanks and all have been perfect. I bought an old 70's Honda with Kreem in the tank it was coming off in strips inside the tank and I was in a complete mess as you are, keep going and good luck.
@@HepcatHarley I would rather have plastic strips than silver powder. Actually I want neither. I want a liner that will not dissolve. My guess is POR-15 can not resist Ethanol. Also. Suzuki should have never made such crappy fuel tanks. My Harleys and Hondas do not have this problem.
you have to follow the instructions
@@brendonbayliss2994 Of course
This stuff sucks don’t use it !!! It’ll peel apart in your gas tank
I had a tank that had a similar product called Kreem, that peeled off like curtains. I must admit por15 has never let me down.
@@HepcatHarley ya cream is hooooorrible ha. Por 15 pealed off super easy too for me. Red kote is pretty good but I feel like all of these fail within a year or two. I bought a tank once a guy said was nickel dipped so wouldn’t leak. Never heard of that but maybe works