Thank you! There are many very cool videos on the platform in the sub 20 minute range that talk about 1 liner so I wanted to go deeper and compare multiple
Great video, very clear instructions 👍 Just a note from personal experience, if you have a tank with a badly rusted interior and you want to use a medium to shake around inside I find it better to use steel screws, nuts or steel shot, gravel can be a bitch to get out of some tanks but if you use steel you can get awkward bits out with a magnet.
Another great video BJ. I remember my father back in the late 1960s fixing a leak in an old BSA 350 petrol tank with solder. Also , lead was used to repair dings in car bodywork which was then filed to remove excess build up and repainted with the appropriate colour of enamel paint. Obviously, this was before body filler and tank sealers came out.
for the perferation holes i solder them up with a soldering iron and electrical solder with flux because its low heat you can repair most holes without damaging hardly any paint
Yes that sound like a better idea than the tank liner to seal those larger holes. Any flex/pressure from the outside surface on those holes will likely knock a hole through the very thin layer of epoxy. Not considered structural without something added like miller glass fibers etc .
Noice! I did mega prep on my big cx500 tank, ended up removing all paint and having as much welding done as i could as i had literally dozens of holes. My blie caswell held strong all last season and now that the rest of my bike is painted im enjoying the current season.
@@BrickHouseBuilds but my paint was also in terrible shape, super sun faded and bubbled on top. Your paint looks great still so I totally understand wanting to preserve.
Thank you! I definitely wanted to drive that point home as there is a ton of mixed advice online. Not that I'm an authority but I do see tons of various opinions on it
Ive used caswell many times for rust and or holes just like you had in that tank. Ive also used it on late 2000s era plastic tanks. The ethanol would make them expand once you took the tank off to the point where some of them would not fit anymore. The fix was a new tank coated with caswell epoxy
Word of advise from a guy who's done the wrong thing and ruined the paint job on my tank. I bought a kit that include acid as the first clean up step. I made the HUGE mistake of not blocking of all the holes PROPERLY and acid made its way out and run all over my tank. It was a case of operation a success (the lining worked) but the patient is dead (ruined the paint job in a big way. Lesson learned here: I should have taken much more time to find a method of sealing all holes AND testing it with water before pouring in the acid. We live and learn.
I have used the Kreem tank liner kits for over 25 years, and they work. Never had any customer complaints from them either! My '79 gs550e still runs great with the liner that i used in it in 1988.❤
@BrickHouseBuilds Wrong, what you have seen is poor prep work like you stated in the video. The Kreem liner system works extremely well when used properly! As I stated it is still in use on my own bikes (plural) because I have used it on all of my own bikes that I keep as well as customer units. If you don't follow the instructions strictly, even the Caswell stuff doesn't work! I don't recommend the Kreem on tanks that have external holes like your Honda tank, due to the acid wash first step of the Kreem process.
Yeaaaaaa!! You’re back! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I did that tank liquid liner about 15 years ago on an old Kawasaki and it worked! I had to put small gravel inside it to roll it around to knock off all the rust 👍🏻
I'm glad I came upon this. I have an '83 CB1000 with a series of pin holes at the bottom seams of the tank. I've been searching like crazy for a fix. I think this is the one I'll try. Thank you for posting this!
Great video, I'm doing this to my '66 Norton N15CS and I always like to learn new tips. I did the POR-15 on a '73 CB750, worked fine. I agree it's the last resort. I have a seam leak on a tank that was beautifully painted in '94 and put on a shelf. I watched your electrolysis rust removal method, and did the Norton tank that way. It's a thick gauge tank and I was surprised that it leaked at the back seam - only after riding it a few times after a complete restoration and subjecting it to the Norton vibes. I use a kitchen trash bag, cut the opening around the filler opening, then mask it around so it hugs the tank. It's stretchy so it works pretty well by cutting a smaller hole and pushing it over the top. I have corrected many rusted tanks and it's a tedious job. Here's my Norton's first start since 1970 when it went into deep slumber - bought in a few boxes a couple years ago. th-cam.com/video/UmqvaePsDNg/w-d-xo.html
Certified Triumph MC tech here, worked at a Motorad and Triumph dealer. Ever see a tank after it's been treated this way? They work OK at first, then later, not so much. They get nasty after American MTBE Fuel disintegrates that liquid liner. Clean it out, braze or silver solder it, repaint it and NEVER use a Liquid Liner.
Hi Ron, my Harley Davidson 48 gas tank has some rust points and I want to stop the corrosion before it gets big. What do you suggest? Maybe a deep clean is enough? I was thinking to try with vinegar….thanks.
Yet again another very informative video. I too have had good luck with the Caswell system. I used it on my street tracker which was one of my old race bikes. It is a Champion fiberglass tank the just hates ethanol fuel. It has held up for over 10 years. Your videos on rust removal are really good as well, having done quite a few myself, I sill learned a couple of things from you.
Yes, fiberglass tanks are harder to prep...decades of old fuel residue embedded in the material. I'd think you need to really scuff up the interior with lots of abrasive shaking before trying to clean and add a liner. But epoxy would be the best choice...it should adhere well to a tank made from polyester resin & glass fiber, which is the common resin used on them (we use epoxy for top quality repairs on polyester resin sailboat hulls).
Good advice. I used Eastwood tank liner more then once and it WILL peel every time! I do not trust any of them.... but if you have nothing to loose, then consider it a temporary fix.........
Fantastic job. As usual, very thorough in your presentation! I'm interested in seeing the paint touch-up for this tank. I have a few projects that need touch-up and I'd love to have something to compare. Thanks, and have a blessed weekend!
Caswell works really well👌 i have used it in Two tanks and it stopped the small leaks and has lasted a long time. I did notice they say not to use marvel oil in your gas tho which is too bad but still an excellent product👌
Great video! Your presentation is very clear and concise. You mentioned that you didn't want to weld those holes because of how thin the metal is, but could they have been brazed? I don't have any experience in this at all, but I am curious since I know that brazing is performed at a lower temperature compared to welding.
Thank you! When I originally started to clean the tank there was just a single hole under the tunnel. I could have welded/brazed that. The issue I had was ruining the paint on the outside since I need to keep costs low on this bike. Brazing would ruin it unfortunately.
Just in time! I'm trying to line my Kz440 tank and found heaps of big pinholes after removing rust using the KBS system. I'm going to look Into the Caswell kit!
Super video BJ......,your presentation skills accompanying the process are what makes your content absolutely top notch...!!! Excellent job......,I loved every minute of it.. God Bless BG.
The liner in my plastic fuel tank cracked and split in one spot up near the filler neck. Easy access for a spot repair. I need a strong epoxy adhesive that will bond to the existing cured epoxy. I'm goung to rough up the area around the split and clean it with acetone. Then inject epoxy into the split to fill it first. Then brush on two coats over the area. Spot/patch repair. I can't figure out which epoxy I should use. Any advice? Dissolving all of the existing liner and starting over from scratch would be damn near impossible on this tank I have. The spot repair is my only option. There are no other cracks. It's not failing anywhere else.
Minted job BJ overkill on the prep is never a bad thing perfection takes time and defo puts your mind at rest,that’s what makes a difference in the end product. Awesome work again mate and loving the content you share thanks again have a great weekend and all the best 👌👌👌👍👍😀
That's way thicker than POR-15. I've done a couple POR-15 liners. I wish I could do them both again because I screwed up a little each time. Nothing catastrophic. On one I had my tank sitting at a slight angle when it dried, with the back slightly up, so some of the liner pooled in the front bottom part of of the tank. (I thought I had gotten the excess out, but there's always a little more in there that'll drip down and settle. If the tank is sitting on a flat level surface, it'll spread out on the bottom and won't be noticeable. Mine wasn't sitting on a flat level surface when I left it overnight to dry. If you have a tank with internal petcock threads, like an old Triumph tank, make sure you get those threads covered with something.
Hi there, sorry don't know your name but another great video, i would be nervous in case the resin set in a big lump, but whatn a lovely looking tank, now that its sealed i wonder could you leave the tank empty while in storage as I'm not sure about a tank full of petrol when I'm storing my vmax for so long, but thanks again and take care, george.
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks again😊. Its my favorite movies too. In 2016 I build a look a like black Toyota pickup in Marty Mc Fly style😅. But i sold it in 2019😪
Bit dodgey using the thin inner epoxy coating to cover those larger holes. Any flexing/pressure from the outside of the plugged hole might lead to perforation. Could use plumbers solder and electric or butane solder gun to heat small area of metal on those holes from the outside...minimal affect on paint Then sand it back level, then body filler/primer and touch up paint.
@@BrickHouseBuilds OK for tiny cracks/pinholes. But not for a relative large holes like you had here. There needs to be a reinforcing additive like milled glass fibers to give epoxy structural strength. Otherwise it will likely puncture with such a thin layer. Better to use solder to fill the holes...using an electric or butane soldering iron to heat small areas of tank metal to apply solder....limiting heat damage to paint.
Dang that’s a bummer. I’m not sure what to use as an alternative. The POR-15 sealer has some pretty bad reviews but I also don’t want to wait months. 😂
Even watching that was stressful. YoOu were good enough to reply to a question on one of your other videos, but specific to lining the tank, don't they just start to rust again immediately after you clean them? I have an 1150GS, no leaks but plenty of loose rust. That tank is a big, deep monster with a massive hole for the sender/pump etc, and I'd really love to not have to line it, but I can't help thinking I'll be cleaning rust forever, or until it eats through and holes the tank. Great vids, nice ot see this stuff done in the real world.
The tank shouldn't rust again once you clean it. If you use acids, be sure to neutralize. Once done just try to keep fuel in it and if you know it will sit, fill it to the top
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'll clean the tank and so long as there's some metal left in it afterwards I'll give it a go as is - if it starts to rust again I'll reclean and line it. Thanks for this, TH-cam at its best right here!
Hi Sr. great video. My bike gas tank almost have a very litter tiny hole, its not start leak yet, can you tell me any recomendation to fix its in my case? Some people said me use metal epoxy from outside but I want do the best option I can do in my case Thank in advance for your help
Please tell why the por15 that you used on this cx500 tank didn't work out. Is it because the por15 is flexible and thin, so not ideal for tanks with seam leaks. Also how did you remove the old tank liner.
In this video I used Caswell. On a previous CX500 tank I used POR15 and a combination of my improper prep and the overall consistency of the kit meant I didn't have proper adhesion on the fuel cap area. My last issue was a faulty fuel cap that didn't vent as advertised creating a pressure inside that forced fuel vapor through weld seams where the liner had peeled off ruining the paint. for removal often you will use acetone and something like screws to slowly dissolve and dislodge it.
I have a brand new just made reproduction tank for my WW2 BMW R75, its new steel, zero rust. Would you suggest just running it as is or using this tank liner? Thank you.
A tank liner should be used as a last resort. If it's a good tank you can just keep it nice by keeping fuel in it. Slosh some oil around to keep it coated if not in use
I used a glove and a rubber band on mine lol. Just put the palm of the glove over the hole and around the sides then wrapped the pipe part in a rubber band to hold it on there. Worked well with stuff I had lying around.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Oeh, i missed that, sorry. But i saw daylight shying thru that liner! Pls tell me you are gonna put some compound on the outside, at least.
I would research what material the liner is and then contact Caswell to see if they have a solution. They sell a tank stripper but you need to confirm it works in your application
I have a tank, which looks like someone tried poorly to seal, before. Have you any experience with Caswell over existing sealant? I have no idea what was used.
No you need to attempt to strip the old sealant. Go to caswells website and get in touch with them for the best path going forward. They offer a chemical that may help.
I know you have a big stash of parts. Do you have anything for a 1971 CB350 twin? Looking for a clutch lever, stator cover, and sprockets and chain. I think I need a one tooth larger front sprocket.
good job ... altho I think I would have welded holes that large first with the tig THEN applied the sealer also another product out there .. single stage .. Red Kote ... keep those videos comin
Your work ethic is admirable young man . BTW are you familiar with a product called Metal Rescue ? Non toxic , enviro friendly reusable rust remover . Been using it for years to remove rust from fuel tanks and other parts . Leaves the metal like new. Literally . :)@@BrickHouseBuilds
@SteffanoDucati thank you. Yes I have just like evaporust. I actually prefer electrolysis to all of them as its very safe and far less expensive for the same quality of finish. I also have a full video on that process.
I bought it from Caswell. They were sold out for a couple months so I kept a close eye on the website and called for the best eta. As soon as they were in stock I jumped on it. They quickly sold out so you have to be patient.
Hi Bro! I have learned so much from seeing your videos. I have just started restoring a Honda CX500, and you have more or less got everything covered, which is pretty amazing for someone like me - I have no mechanical experience to speak of... :D However I would like to return the favour! If you want some really good saran wrap, you could go and ask any chef where they get theirs. Im a chef and the wrap we use is crazy strong and much easier to handle than the stuff you buy at the grocery store :) thanks again for your awesome work! And im sorry for my English - im danish :D :D
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'd say that's it's probably a bit thinner and a bit more stretchy and not quite as strong. The heat resistance from anything but direct flame is really great. Congrats on your new place btw, looks awesome!!!
Consider making yourself a large hand-cranked roto-cast machibe whixh xan spin on x and y axez. I'm an artist and I use a small version of the machine, made out of wood, to spin cast resin into my moulds. Resin evenly distributes and when tacky I stop.
Just stuff a plastic bag n it and save the work, liners are a joke, i have restored tanks for over forty years, cut tank open, bead blast, silver solder all repairs needed, tig back together, bodywork it, paint it, bobs ur i you uncle, do not try a liner
I've been doing it for 41 years and this one being painted was a different scenario. Tig or silver solder is obviously a good method but not applicable here
this is the most comprehensive tank liner video on TH-cam. Thank you!
Thank you! There are many very cool videos on the platform in the sub 20 minute range that talk about 1 liner so I wanted to go deeper and compare multiple
Why don't you use red note liners
Great video, very clear instructions 👍
Just a note from personal experience, if you have a tank with a badly rusted interior and you want to use a medium to shake around inside I find it better to use steel screws, nuts or steel shot, gravel can be a bitch to get out of some tanks but if you use steel you can get awkward bits out with a magnet.
Another great video BJ. I remember my father back in the late 1960s fixing a leak in an old BSA 350 petrol tank with solder. Also , lead was used to repair dings in car bodywork which was then filed to remove excess build up and repainted with the appropriate colour of enamel paint. Obviously, this was before body filler and tank sealers came out.
Thank you
for the perferation holes i solder them up with a soldering iron and electrical solder with flux because its low heat you can repair most holes without damaging hardly any paint
Yes that sound like a better idea than the tank liner to seal those larger holes. Any flex/pressure from the outside surface on those holes will likely knock a hole through the very thin layer of epoxy. Not considered structural without something added like miller glass fibers etc .
Noice! I did mega prep on my big cx500 tank, ended up removing all paint and having as much welding done as i could as i had literally dozens of holes. My blie caswell held strong all last season and now that the rest of my bike is painted im enjoying the current season.
It was worth it though im sure. You definitely went a bit further than most
@@BrickHouseBuilds but my paint was also in terrible shape, super sun faded and bubbled on top. Your paint looks great still so I totally understand wanting to preserve.
Great video. Especially the when not to line a tank part. Other creators make it seem like if it has rust...you have to line it. Thanks!
Thank you! I definitely wanted to drive that point home as there is a ton of mixed advice online. Not that I'm an authority but I do see tons of various opinions on it
Ive used caswell many times for rust and or holes just like you had in that tank. Ive also used it on late 2000s era plastic tanks. The ethanol would make them expand once you took the tank off to the point where some of them would not fit anymore. The fix was a new tank coated with caswell epoxy
Word of advise from a guy who's done the wrong thing and ruined the paint job on my tank. I bought a kit that include acid as the first clean up step. I made the HUGE mistake of not blocking of all the holes PROPERLY and acid made its way out and run all over my tank. It was a case of operation a success (the lining worked) but the patient is dead (ruined the paint job in a big way.
Lesson learned here: I should have taken much more time to find a method of sealing all holes AND testing it with water before pouring in the acid. We live and learn.
Lessons learned for sure. That white cx500 build had multiple repaints due to tank sealer
You may have sealed your holes properly, but the acid by eating the rust created new holes.
Great video and saving of a tank. I would have never thought of using a lining kit to repair a tank with actual small holes like this one has.
Thats ultimately the primary reason these liners exist. Definitely life savers
I have used the Kreem tank liner kits for over 25 years, and they work. Never had any customer complaints from them either! My '79 gs550e still runs great with the liner that i used in it in 1988.❤
I've just seen too many bad kreem liners to trust them.
@BrickHouseBuilds Wrong, what you have seen is poor prep work like you stated in the video. The Kreem liner system works extremely well when used properly! As I stated it is still in use on my own bikes (plural) because I have used it on all of my own bikes that I keep as well as customer units. If you don't follow the instructions strictly, even the Caswell stuff doesn't work! I don't recommend the Kreem on tanks that have external holes like your Honda tank, due to the acid wash first step of the Kreem process.
Yeaaaaaa!! You’re back! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I did that tank liquid liner about 15 years ago on an old Kawasaki and it worked! I had to put small gravel inside it to roll it around to knock off all the rust 👍🏻
Never left 🤘
I'm glad I came upon this. I have an '83 CB1000 with a series of pin holes at the bottom seams of the tank. I've been searching like crazy for a fix. I think this is the one I'll try. Thank you for posting this!
Glad you found it helpful
Great video, I'm doing this to my '66 Norton N15CS and I always like to learn new tips. I did the POR-15 on a '73 CB750, worked fine. I agree it's the last resort. I have a seam leak on a tank that was beautifully painted in '94 and put on a shelf. I watched your electrolysis rust removal method, and did the Norton tank that way. It's a thick gauge tank and I was surprised that it leaked at the back seam - only after riding it a few times after a complete restoration and subjecting it to the Norton vibes. I use a kitchen trash bag, cut the opening around the filler opening, then mask it around so it hugs the tank. It's stretchy so it works pretty well by cutting a smaller hole and pushing it over the top. I have corrected many rusted tanks and it's a tedious job. Here's my Norton's first start since 1970 when it went into deep slumber - bought in a few boxes a couple years ago. th-cam.com/video/UmqvaePsDNg/w-d-xo.html
Certified Triumph MC tech here, worked at a Motorad and Triumph dealer. Ever see a tank after it's been treated this way? They work OK at first, then later, not so much. They get nasty after American MTBE Fuel disintegrates that liquid liner. Clean it out, braze or silver solder it, repaint it and NEVER use a Liquid Liner.
I've seen many failed liners. I've never seen a failed Caswell liner.
I had it rust again underneath the whole liner came out.
Hi Ron, my Harley Davidson 48 gas tank has some rust points and I want to stop the corrosion before it gets big. What do you suggest? Maybe a deep clean is enough? I was thinking to try with vinegar….thanks.
I use a stopper either cork or rubber to plug the fuel opening. Works well.
Yet again another very informative video. I too have had good luck with the Caswell system. I used it on my street tracker which was one of my old race bikes. It is a Champion fiberglass tank the just hates ethanol fuel. It has held up for over 10 years. Your videos on rust removal are really good as well, having done quite a few myself, I sill learned a couple of things from you.
Well thank you much! My goal is always to provide helpful info and solid practices
Yes, fiberglass tanks are harder to prep...decades of old fuel residue embedded in the material. I'd think you need to really scuff up the interior with lots of abrasive shaking before trying to clean and add a liner. But epoxy would be the best choice...it should adhere well to a tank made from polyester resin & glass fiber, which is the common resin used on them (we use epoxy for top quality repairs on polyester resin sailboat hulls).
Good advice. I used Eastwood tank liner more then once and it WILL peel every time! I do not trust any of them.... but if you have nothing to loose, then consider it a temporary fix.........
Fantastic job. As usual, very thorough in your presentation! I'm interested in seeing the paint touch-up for this tank. I have a few projects that need touch-up and I'd love to have something to compare.
Thanks, and have a blessed weekend!
Thank you. Currently on the search for said paint
Suprised that those big holes sealed so nicely . That Epoxy Sealer is the way to go .
Its good stuff for sure
Damn that tank is gorgeous and in pristine shape (minus the hole)
Yeah that's why I wanted to seal it the way I did.
Thanks for the information I will be doing a tank lining on my wife's 87 cmx 450
Great stuff. Thanks for sharing. I have a feeling my basket case CX500 will need the tanks lined.
Thank you!
Very informative video, and very well put. Thank you! Regards from Canada 🇨🇦
Thank you Keith
Caswell works really well👌 i have used it in Two tanks and it stopped the small leaks and has lasted a long time. I did notice they say not to use marvel oil in your gas tho which is too bad but still an excellent product👌
Right different chemicals react to different things so apparently epoxy and marvel do not play well.
I have got to admit I was skeptical of this task, but really nice save.
Greetings from England :)
Fabulous and thorough vid !
Thank you so much for sharing this
Glad you found it helpful!
Congrats on the tank save. Good job brother
Much appreciated!
Enjoyed the video BJ. A pretty ise detailed installation of a tank liner. Nice job. RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
Thank you!
Great video! Your presentation is very clear and concise. You mentioned that you didn't want to weld those holes because of how thin the metal is, but could they have been brazed? I don't have any experience in this at all, but I am curious since I know that brazing is performed at a lower temperature compared to welding.
Thank you! When I originally started to clean the tank there was just a single hole under the tunnel. I could have welded/brazed that. The issue I had was ruining the paint on the outside since I need to keep costs low on this bike. Brazing would ruin it unfortunately.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Oh, yes, of course. Wasn't thinking about that! Thanks.
Thank you for this. Very timely for me, as I am doing a tank with Caswell this week. 👍👍
Perfect timing indeed! Glad it could help
great video, one suggestion is I put caswell seal mask on the inside edges of petcock hole. less protection but easier cleanup.
I just want it fully extended down so fuel can't get under it
Just in time!
I'm trying to line my Kz440 tank and found heaps of big pinholes after removing rust using the KBS system.
I'm going to look Into the Caswell kit!
Kbs says you can use the kit to seal holes but I just haven't had much success with it.
Thanks for showing the process, and thanks for the tips. I’m doing this tonight, wish me luck🤞🏻
🤘🤘
@@BrickHouseBuilds so far so good, got a lot of rust out of the tank🙏🏻🤙🏻
Super video BJ......,your presentation skills accompanying the process are what makes your content absolutely top notch...!!!
Excellent job......,I loved every minute of it..
God Bless
BG.
Thank you so much!
The liner in my plastic fuel tank cracked and split in one spot up near the filler neck. Easy access for a spot repair. I need a strong epoxy adhesive that will bond to the existing cured epoxy. I'm goung to rough up the area around the split and clean it with acetone. Then inject epoxy into the split to fill it first. Then brush on two coats over the area. Spot/patch repair. I can't figure out which epoxy I should use. Any advice? Dissolving all of the existing liner and starting over from scratch would be damn near impossible on this tank I have. The spot repair is my only option. There are no other cracks. It's not failing anywhere else.
Minted job BJ overkill on the prep is never a bad thing perfection takes time and defo puts your mind at rest,that’s what makes a difference in the end product. Awesome work again mate and loving the content you share thanks again have a great weekend and all the best 👌👌👌👍👍😀
Much appreciated 🙏
@@BrickHouseBuilds well deserved 👌👍
14:31 what small flash light is that? Great video
@@brunofeitosafl it is just a generic flashlight you could find at Walmart/any autoparts store
Can you do one on removing old lines? I have a old tank with a liner from like over 30 yrs. ago and she has failed big time.
I dont have any tanks with old liners needing removal currently. Normally acetone and aggregate are used for that.
Thank you, great video. I have to line the tank on my Super Dream 250N. Thanks for the tips.
Glad you found it helpful
That's way thicker than POR-15. I've done a couple POR-15 liners. I wish I could do them both again because I screwed up a little each time. Nothing catastrophic. On one I had my tank sitting at a slight angle when it dried, with the back slightly up, so some of the liner pooled in the front bottom part of of the tank. (I thought I had gotten the excess out, but there's always a little more in there that'll drip down and settle. If the tank is sitting on a flat level surface, it'll spread out on the bottom and won't be noticeable. Mine wasn't sitting on a flat level surface when I left it overnight to dry. If you have a tank with internal petcock threads, like an old Triumph tank, make sure you get those threads covered with something.
Definitely lots thicker
Well done...going to apply your technique to my Kawasaki AR80...thanks mate.
🙏🙏
Great video. Really informative and easy to follow.👍🏼
Thank ya!
Fantastic work ! We might see a Honda ntv 400 in the future❤
Thank you!
Nice to se you again . Hope you have a nice day
Thank ya
Hi there, sorry don't know your name but another great video, i would be nervous in case the resin set in a big lump, but whatn a lovely looking tank, now that its sealed i wonder could you leave the tank empty while in storage as I'm not sure about a tank full of petrol when I'm storing my vmax for so long, but thanks again and take care, george.
@@georgemacdonald5282 no worries. You can leave it empty as there is no exposed steel to corrode
If preparation was done correctly how long could you expect the Caswell liner to last?
Well thats obviously THE question. Based on what Caswell says I'd hope a lifetime with proper care
Thanks😊. Gonna do this whit my 1983 Honda MB50 cc 😊
As Back To The Future is my favorite movie I love your username lol
@@BrickHouseBuilds 😅thanks man. I really like your channel. So see you around😊👍
@@BrickHouseBuilds thanks again😊. Its my favorite movies too. In 2016 I build a look a like black Toyota pickup in Marty Mc Fly style😅. But i sold it in 2019😪
Great video. Very informative thanks for doing it.
Thanks Eric!
Bit dodgey using the thin inner epoxy coating to cover those larger holes. Any flexing/pressure from the outside of the plugged hole might lead to perforation. Could use plumbers solder and electric or butane solder gun to heat small area of metal on those holes from the outside...minimal affect on paint Then sand it back level, then body filler/primer and touch up paint.
This is very standard to let the epoxy cover the holes
@@BrickHouseBuilds OK for tiny cracks/pinholes. But not for a relative large holes like you had here. There needs to be a reinforcing additive like milled glass fibers to give epoxy structural strength. Otherwise it will likely puncture with such a thin layer. Better to use solder to fill the holes...using an electric or butane soldering iron to heat small areas of tank metal to apply solder....limiting heat damage to paint.
Great video! This product is sold out everywhere tho. Even on caswell website! Where did you get yours?
It was sold out for months and I kept calling to get accurate ETA for restock. The moment they were available I bought 3
Dang that’s a bummer. I’m not sure what to use as an alternative. The POR-15 sealer has some pretty bad reviews but I also don’t want to wait months. 😂
Even watching that was stressful. YoOu were good enough to reply to a question on one of your other videos, but specific to lining the tank, don't they just start to rust again immediately after you clean them? I have an 1150GS, no leaks but plenty of loose rust. That tank is a big, deep monster with a massive hole for the sender/pump etc, and I'd really love to not have to line it, but I can't help thinking I'll be cleaning rust forever, or until it eats through and holes the tank. Great vids, nice ot see this stuff done in the real world.
The tank shouldn't rust again once you clean it. If you use acids, be sure to neutralize. Once done just try to keep fuel in it and if you know it will sit, fill it to the top
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'll clean the tank and so long as there's some metal left in it afterwards I'll give it a go as is - if it starts to rust again I'll reclean and line it. Thanks for this, TH-cam at its best right here!
Hi Sr. great video. My bike gas tank almost have a very litter tiny hole, its not start leak yet, can you tell me any recomendation to fix its in my case? Some people said me use metal epoxy from outside but I want do the best option I can do in my case
Thank in advance for your help
Well this would seal from the inside. There are products for tank sealing from the outside but those are never the best solution.
Greetings, what product are you using to seal the tank?
well done!
Thank ya!
Please tell why the por15 that you used on this cx500 tank didn't work out. Is it because the por15 is flexible and thin, so not ideal for tanks with seam leaks. Also how did you remove the old tank liner.
In this video I used Caswell. On a previous CX500 tank I used POR15 and a combination of my improper prep and the overall consistency of the kit meant I didn't have proper adhesion on the fuel cap area. My last issue was a faulty fuel cap that didn't vent as advertised creating a pressure inside that forced fuel vapor through weld seams where the liner had peeled off ruining the paint.
for removal often you will use acetone and something like screws to slowly dissolve and dislodge it.
I really enjoy your show
Thank you!
I have a brand new just made reproduction tank for my WW2 BMW R75, its new steel, zero rust. Would you suggest just running it as is or using this tank liner? Thank you.
A tank liner should be used as a last resort. If it's a good tank you can just keep it nice by keeping fuel in it. Slosh some oil around to keep it coated if not in use
Awesome, thanks.@@BrickHouseBuilds
Gran trabajo, es nuevo ese sistema ?
Thank you. The caswell system has been around a long time.
Does a new fuel take replenishment require a tank liner?
I'm not sure I understand your question. What do you mean by "replenishment"
I still can't find the petcock plug cover on Amazon, what do I ask for to find it? This was a very informative video.
You search for "(whatever thread you need)cap" and should see results
I used a glove and a rubber band on mine lol. Just put the palm of the glove over the hole and around the sides then wrapped the pipe part in a rubber band to hold it on there. Worked well with stuff I had lying around.
don't the inside of gas tanks on new bikes come lined with a sealer from the factory?
Nope. They may have a plating but a liquid sealer is never a factory item
Was this the “up to 3 gallons” size or the “up to 10 gallons” size listed I think my tank it’s just over 3 gallons
Whatever the one I linked is. I know it's out of stock again unfortunately
Any update on the Benelli 750 SEI?
This unseizing video th-cam.com/video/PYR62SHoSdo/w-d-xo.html
I hope i never have to do this, but i know how to if i do.
Why did you not weld the holes on the outside?🇳🇱
I talked about how thin the metal is and how it would further ruin the paint. It would have been a massive undertaking.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Oeh, i missed that, sorry. But i saw daylight shying thru that liner!
Pls tell me you are gonna put some compound on the outside, at least.
@@hondaryder3779 what daylight? Its white in color and picks up reflections a bunch so it may have appeared like that
What do you think about using it on a fiberglass motorcycle fuel tank
I think many do. Caswell has that information on their website so use their guidance on this
I have a 1986 BMW airhead with the factory tank liner gradually flaking off. What do you recommend I do?
I would research what material the liner is and then contact Caswell to see if they have a solution. They sell a tank stripper but you need to confirm it works in your application
I have a tank, which looks like someone tried poorly to seal, before. Have you any experience with Caswell over existing sealant? I have no idea what was used.
No you need to attempt to strip the old sealant. Go to caswells website and get in touch with them for the best path going forward. They offer a chemical that may help.
@@BrickHouseBuilds Thanks, I get in touch. I enjoy your channel.
I know you have a big stash of parts. Do you have anything for a 1971 CB350 twin? Looking for a clutch lever, stator cover, and sprockets and chain. I think I need a one tooth larger front sprocket.
I likely have sprockets but of the parts listed that would be it. Slipstream creations would probably have the rest
@@BrickHouseBuilds
Thanks!
gaffer tape the holes on outside then no loss of resin
If epoxy will dissolve with fuel can you please give a clarity
Go on the Caswell website. They wouldn't design a tank liner that can't withstand fuel
Kudos
good job ... altho I think I would have welded holes that large first with the tig THEN applied the sealer also another product out there .. single stage .. Red Kote ... keep those videos comin
I didn't want to harm the paint otherwise that's what I would have done. I went over more of that in the rust removal video before this one
Your work ethic is admirable young man . BTW are you familiar with a product called Metal Rescue ? Non toxic , enviro friendly reusable rust remover . Been using it for years to remove rust from fuel tanks and other parts . Leaves the metal like new. Literally . :)@@BrickHouseBuilds
@SteffanoDucati thank you. Yes I have just like evaporust. I actually prefer electrolysis to all of them as its very safe and far less expensive for the same quality of finish. I also have a full video on that process.
Someone tell me what I don’t know, well think I know. One doesn’t use the actual tank cap because the liner would ruin it?
Since the tank cap has tiny holes for vents in it as well as springs for the latch it's not wise to use it.
Send me the link of the product used, thanks a lot
It's in the description my man
great video, well thought out.
Thank you
Well done!
Thank ya!
Great video thx 👋
Thank you
Where idid u get this liner from?
I bought it from Caswell. They were sold out for a couple months so I kept a close eye on the website and called for the best eta. As soon as they were in stock I jumped on it. They quickly sold out so you have to be patient.
@@BrickHouseBuildsbro I am from Pakistan can u tell me is that in USA?
Great video good info 👍
Glad you enjoyed!
Nice...👍.
Thanks!
Might try the fuel tank in my car
They do make car tank kita
Great video. Good detail info. Thank you. Ps I hope I never have to do this!
Haha not a fun job but necessary sometimes
Liquid name available in online website please send me I'm India
It's linked in the description
"...just like your jokes..." hah! Your jokes are fine.
😅
👍😎👍
What about seafoam
What about it?
@@BrickHouseBuilds for fuel additive
@spiderbat8665 So what is your question?
@@BrickHouseBuilds can I put it in after I put the sealer in and it cures
@spiderbat8665 I don't see why you couldn't but you should refer to the Caswell website as they make the product and have lots more information
Hi Bro!
I have learned so much from seeing your videos.
I have just started restoring a Honda CX500, and you have more or less got everything covered, which is pretty amazing for someone like me - I have no mechanical experience to speak of... :D However I would like to return the favour! If you want some really good saran wrap, you could go and ask any chef where they get theirs. Im a chef and the wrap we use is crazy strong and much easier to handle than the stuff you buy at the grocery store :) thanks again for your awesome work! And im sorry for my English - im danish :D :D
Thats a good idea! I'd assume it was more like packaging wrap in strength
@@BrickHouseBuilds I'd say that's it's probably a bit thinner and a bit more stretchy and not quite as strong. The heat resistance from anything but direct flame is really great. Congrats on your new place btw, looks awesome!!!
great job! but please do something for the noise in the audio :)
What noise?
@@BrickHouseBuilds noise in the back, for example at 20:23
@@Onilela Thats my air conditioner or you are hearing my chair roll on the floor and my shoe squeaking for a moment. Thats being incredibly picky.
ماهيه لماده
Doesn’t work with fuels containing small amounts of ethanol. I have two tanks to prove it.
Consider making yourself a large hand-cranked roto-cast machibe whixh xan spin on x and y axez. I'm an artist and I use a small version of the machine, made out of wood, to spin cast resin into my moulds. Resin evenly distributes and when tacky I stop.
😎🇧🇻👍👍
Vaxing and covering seems to be unnecessary....
You say that until you drip sealer on good paint and can't remove it. I'd rather go overboard on protection than not enough
man that is some weird milk
Yeah I tried some and have been constipated for a week now!
I would have thought you should have cleaned the tank first and address any rust Inside.
I made an entire video about just that before this one. I mentioned it and it's also linked in the description.
Just stuff a plastic bag n it and save the work, liners are a joke, i have restored tanks for over forty years, cut tank open, bead blast, silver solder all repairs needed, tig back together, bodywork it, paint it, bobs ur i you uncle, do not try a liner
I've been doing it for 41 years and this one being painted was a different scenario. Tig or silver solder is obviously a good method but not applicable here