I watched about 10 videos where the nuances are not explained and I now I think I have one quarter section pushed in too deep. I am going to try and gently pull it out I hope it works.
I bought a new seal, installed it recessed to the lip. Heard so many conflicting info regarding it being recessed. Honda has a lip on my civic. I pushed it all the way in, drove fine. Today I managed to take it apart again with my finger, used silicone, and put it flush.
You helped me alot with the info from all your accord rebuild videos , i appreciate you. I hope you find a garage soon i know the feeling. Keep up the awesome content 👏
Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm in a temporary place at the moment until the perfect place is found. Then I can start pulling engines again!
Been searching all day for the answer about the seal being flush with the case, I made the same mistake went a little to far in. Leaked like crazy. thanks for the info!
Were you able to pull it out a little or is it toast? I must have watched 10 videos that said, "hey just put grease on it and use a 36 socket, like "No worries it's easy!" so I did but it didn't look right. The side from 12 o'clock to 3:00 o'clock looks pushed too far in. I can't stand when people don't post all the details. Creator thank you for this. Ugh.
I'm glad you found the video to be helpful! Just greasing up the old seal after you go to all the trouble of getting to it is too much of a gamble. Buying a new one is the right choice.
@@ktecgarage Thanks. I just bought a new one from the Honda dealership(After tax about $24.50 as of July 2024). The original I took out(not the first replacement that I screwed up/pushed in too far) doesn't look like the one I just got from the dealership so maybe that is why it was leaking to begin with.
@@ThePwak007 Exactly, but no one says to not bottom it out. They do the quick cutaway where you never see what they do. I can't stand that. Thank you creator for this video.
Is there some seals that go in further by factory specs? Just wondering about my 2006 Odyssey. Just did it and had to use my old axle shaft with seal installed backwards to beat on it and it went in more than flush. Maybe 1/8 inch or more. I hit like on your video by the way, thanks for the info!
Thank you for this video. I watched video and still ran it in too deep. I should of made smaller taps. Gona get a new one not take a chance in too deep so it leaks.. Thanks again this are small details but they can make or break the install.
My 2013 RDX J Series driver side is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. My mechanic recommended I replace the seal and axle. Would you replace the axle if you were me? Or just the seal? OEM isn't cheap! But not sure how I feel about aftermarket. It has 105K miles. I just did the water pump and timing belt which was how we found out it was leaking.
I know this is old but i’m going to be replacing my whole front end , ball joints and control arms n all, couldn’t i just avoid removing the axel nut and disengage the lower control arm and pull the axle out still? like with the whole knuckle assembly
I replaced my passenger side axle again due to a torn boot. When I installed the new axle it started leaking CVT fluid. Had a hard time getting the seal but it's fine now. Do seals usually fail when installing a new axle
I would say removing the axle shouldn't damage the seal unless it got bumped or torn and you didn't notice. Sometimes just messing with something like an old seal can get them leaking.
@@AwesomenessIskey Yeah this would be good to know because I saw a comment on another video where someone warned to not seat the new axle too tight up against the transmission-that there should be a slight gap or something.
Good info. Question...If its leaking from the Axle seal...should it be leaking transmission oil or motor oil. 2009 Honda Civic is leaking at the driver side. Thank you
Hello I have a question to asked you I replaced the seal on my drive side on my civic It's a d series manual transmission I still keep getting fluid Barley driping out I replaced the seal three times one from honda So I finally pulled the axle back out of it I notice there's a little tiny hole inside of it Doesn't look like it's supposed to be there You see it right when you pull the seal off of it My question is is there supposed to be a little tiny hoe next to the shaft inside of the seal?
I did a 93 Civic with the D15 and I don't remember any holes in the seal. I did it exactly like this video and never had an issue. Just make sure that the seal is flush with the case and not pushed in too far.
My new axle seal is not sitting 100% flush but not leaking. I tried to push it in about a mm using a plastic pry tool and screwdriver without removing it
yo im new to cars and i dont know how to identify my problem. on my eg civic when i slowly take off theres like a loud clunk sound and u can feel it in the floor board. only happens when i slowly take off or sumtimes it happens while going over a speed bump. theres lil play in my pass axle like on the trans side i can lift it up and down. my cousin said it could be my axle or maybe the seal is bad or sumthign and it doesnt sit right in the trans. any info would help. its been doing it for awhile and its annoying
Check the ball joints, control arms and sway bar bushings and end links. That could very likely be the source of the clunks. Check out my Honda Element videos where I address all that. Same as the Civic.
Maybe. Those things are engineered to take a lot of torque. If you have ever looked inside of the boots, you'd see that they are some pretty solid units. I get your misgivings, though.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your reply. On another note, if I accidentally damaged the seating surface for the output shaft seal and now I have a leak after re-assembly have you got an opinion on whether that can be repaired with JB Weld? It seems extreme for me to have to consider a replacement case. The old seal was almost impossible to remove and I scored the seating surface unfortunately. My worry is that a small amount of JB weld won't be substantial enough to stay in place and then it could break loose and get into the valve body or block fluid flow somewhere else in the tranny. I feel pretty stupid right now.
JB Weld. The redneck's solve all! In all seriousness, it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. I think I would try Honda Bond or some other gasket sealant first. Let us know what you tried and how it goes. I would also suggest checking out my video on Honda axle seals. They will leak if not flush with the Trans case.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your thoughts. I have been waffling back and forth in my mind about using honda bond or jbweld. Honda Bond might be better because I would put it in during seal installation instead of having to create a perfectly round seating surface with the JB weld. I think I will take that route. on another note when I put the shaft seal in I might not have gotten it perfectly flush so that might be causing some grief too. Not sure I want to push it in further and test it and then redo it again and test it......such a pain in the butt.
They can appear to be all the way in, but when you drive the car, they can pop back out. After you push the axle in, grab the other side, pull back and then slam it in. Also, there is a c clip on the end of the axle that holds it in the transmission. If it's worn out or damaged, the axle can pop out. Good luck.
Ty for this video I have a national seal 712551 from the local auto part store and one from Part Greek online OEM Corteco 1903521B for a 2009 Honda Pilot Driver Side AND THERE IS DIFFERNT in Design. Mine is leaking using National . Im putting in the OEM Stuff back in. to resolve the leaking problem
Very poor design to have a seal without a stop built into the casing. Just having it flush like that on the outside is nuts. I have seen many transaxle install videos not one mentioned this, and they actually sometimes say to use the 32 mm socket to seat the seal. Our 2009 Civic transmission has been a disaster anyhow, several sensors have gone out at random times and had to drive home in low gear.
Same here. I just replaced my 2009 Honda Civic starter, don't get me started on poor design. That and the quiet recall for the 8th gen Civic cracked block issue have me moving away from Hondas in the future. I just used a 36 mm socket to seat my seal and it seated it uneven because of me being under the car and having to use my hand pressure. I was nervous about using grease because I didn't want to contaminate my tranny fluid. No one talks about this. I know I have to be careful on my Mercedes.
Finally a decent quality video that shows yhe correct side to press in and how not to press in too far.
Thank you!
I watched about 10 videos where the nuances are not explained and I now I think I have one quarter section pushed in too deep. I am going to try and gently pull it out I hope it works.
Thanks man. For real. Helped alot of people.
Glad to hear that you found it helpful!
I bought a new seal, installed it recessed to the lip. Heard so many conflicting info regarding it being recessed. Honda has a lip on my civic. I pushed it all the way in, drove fine. Today I managed to take it apart again with my finger, used silicone, and put it flush.
Ok, good. the video says it is toast if it is already in there. how did you get it out safely?
I been searching for a video like this that actually walk you thu the process 👍🏿
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking a moment to comment.
You helped me alot with the info from all your accord rebuild videos , i appreciate you. I hope you find a garage soon i know the feeling. Keep up the awesome content 👏
Thank you very much for your kind words! I'm in a temporary place at the moment until the perfect place is found. Then I can start pulling engines again!
Àa
Been searching all day for the answer about the seal being flush with the case, I made the same mistake went a little to far in. Leaked like crazy. thanks for the info!
Your very welcome! Always glad to hear I helped someone out. Thank you for taking a moment to comment.
How long did it take for it to leak? My seal has been like that for three weeks and no leak so far
That’s what I just did pushed it too far inside and the leak was worse. That’s why I’m watching your video and for your advise. Thank you 🙏
Glad you found the video. Those seals can be frustrating!
Were you able to pull it out a little or is it toast? I must have watched 10 videos that said, "hey just put grease on it and use a 36 socket, like "No worries it's easy!" so I did but it didn't look right. The side from 12 o'clock to 3:00 o'clock looks pushed too far in. I can't stand when people don't post all the details. Creator thank you for this. Ugh.
Just had to pull it out with a seal-puller and yes it destroys it. POOF. $25 gone because people don't explain it correctly on TH-cam.
I'm glad you found the video to be helpful! Just greasing up the old seal after you go to all the trouble of getting to it is too much of a gamble. Buying a new one is the right choice.
@@ktecgarage Thanks. I just bought a new one from the Honda dealership(After tax about $24.50 as of July 2024). The original I took out(not the first replacement that I screwed up/pushed in too far) doesn't look like the one I just got from the dealership so maybe that is why it was leaking to begin with.
Thanks for clearing it all up. I made the same mistake and pushed the seal in too far the first time
Seems counterintuitive. Thanks for taking a moment to comment.
@@ktecgarage was thinking the same thing. Maybe there's a need for the gap but most people would assume you push it in till it bottoms out
@@ThePwak007 Exactly, but no one says to not bottom it out. They do the quick cutaway where you never see what they do. I can't stand that. Thank you creator for this video.
Is there some seals that go in further by factory specs? Just wondering about my 2006 Odyssey. Just did it and had to use my old axle shaft with seal installed backwards to beat on it and it went in more than flush. Maybe 1/8 inch or more.
I hit like on your video by the way, thanks for the info!
Not sure about the J series, but I don't think so.
This made it look so easy.
All of us youtube guys make it look easy. The cussing gets edited out!
@@ktecgarage I think it should be left in!
Thank you for this video. I watched video and still ran it in too deep. I should of made smaller taps. Gona get a new one not take a chance in too deep so it leaks.. Thanks again this are small details but they can make or break the install.
Glad you found the video. Hope it saved you a headache!
Yes why no one talks about this I will never understand.
My 2013 RDX J Series driver side is leaking a bit of transmission fluid. My mechanic recommended I replace the seal and axle. Would you replace the axle if you were me? Or just the seal? OEM isn't cheap! But not sure how I feel about aftermarket. It has 105K miles. I just did the water pump and timing belt which was how we found out it was leaking.
It's probably just the seal. If they are recommending an axle, check the boots on it for leaks or tears. I'd do an aftermarket axle myself.
I know this is old but i’m going to be replacing my whole front end , ball joints and control arms n all, couldn’t i just avoid removing the axel nut and disengage the lower control arm and pull the axle out still? like with the whole knuckle assembly
Yep. If the whole knuckle is coming out, the axle will come with it. Good luck!
@@ktecgarage thank you for replying!
I replaced my passenger side axle again due to a torn boot. When I installed the new axle it started leaking CVT fluid. Had a hard time getting the seal but it's fine now. Do seals usually fail when installing a new axle
I would say removing the axle shouldn't damage the seal unless it got bumped or torn and you didn't notice. Sometimes just messing with something like an old seal can get them leaking.
@@ktecgarage does the seal have to be 100% flush with the case? I noticed mine to be about a mm off on one side
@@AwesomenessIskey Yeah this would be good to know because I saw a comment on another video where someone warned to not seat the new axle too tight up against the transmission-that there should be a slight gap or something.
Good info. Question...If its leaking from the Axle seal...should it be leaking transmission oil or motor oil. 2009 Honda Civic is leaking at the driver side. Thank you
Should be transmission fluid. Honda trans fluid is clear, not red.
@@ktecgarage umm my odyssey tranny fluid is red. The manual tranny fluid is clear though.
Hello I have a question to asked you I replaced the seal on my drive side on my civic It's a d series manual transmission I still keep getting fluid Barley driping out I replaced the seal three times one from honda So I finally pulled the axle back out of it I notice there's a little tiny hole inside of it Doesn't look like it's supposed to be there You see it right when you pull the seal off of it My question is is there supposed to be a little tiny hoe next to the shaft inside of the seal?
I did a 93 Civic with the D15 and I don't remember any holes in the seal. I did it exactly like this video and never had an issue. Just make sure that the seal is flush with the case and not pushed in too far.
@ktecgarage I forgot to mention the hole was inside the transmission When you pull the seal out you'll see it right there in the transmission case
So on the pass side of the 09 crv has a larger axle seal. How do I remove and replace that one? Same process?
The seals are different sizes on the Civic in this video as well. The process should be the same on both sides of the CRV.
How much does something like this normally cost?Love your video
Thank you! The part isn't very expensive, but the labor time would be around 1.5 to 2 hours. Depending on the rate, it should be less than $300.
@@ktecgarage Thank you for the info.
It doesn't necessarily have to be 100% flush, just don't press it too far in
Thank you so much for this!!
And thank you for taking a moment to comment.
When some people change the axle they unbolt everything but the ball joint. Which is easier?
I've always just disconnected the ball joint. Never thought about disconnecting the rest.
What kind of honda civic was that automatic or 5 speed and what was the year of it thanks
It's a 2000 Si, EM1. The owner has a TH-cam channel @aleksandrkisslove.
My new axle seal is not sitting 100% flush but not leaking. I tried to push it in about a mm using a plastic pry tool and screwdriver without removing it
If it's not leaking, don't fix it if it ain't broke.
I learned the hard way that driving the seal in too far will cause the gear oil to leak ...
yo im new to cars and i dont know how to identify my problem. on my eg civic when i slowly take off theres like a loud clunk sound and u can feel it in the floor board. only happens when i slowly take off or sumtimes it happens while going over a speed bump. theres lil play in my pass axle like on the trans side i can lift it up and down. my cousin said it could be my axle or maybe the seal is bad or sumthign and it doesnt sit right in the trans. any info would help. its been doing it for awhile and its annoying
Check the ball joints, control arms and sway bar bushings and end links. That could very likely be the source of the clunks. Check out my Honda Element videos where I address all that. Same as the Civic.
@@ktecgarage will do. replaced the ball joints ill make sure to check out the others also
👍
It seems kind of harsh to use the axle to push it in to the transmission case further. How is that not impacting the inner CV joint negatively.
Maybe. Those things are engineered to take a lot of torque. If you have ever looked inside of the boots, you'd see that they are some pretty solid units. I get your misgivings, though.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your reply. On another note, if I accidentally damaged the seating surface for the output shaft seal and now I have a leak after re-assembly have you got an opinion on whether that can be repaired with JB Weld? It seems extreme for me to have to consider a replacement case. The old seal was almost impossible to remove and I scored the seating surface unfortunately. My worry is that a small amount of JB weld won't be substantial enough to stay in place and then it could break loose and get into the valve body or block fluid flow somewhere else in the tranny. I feel pretty stupid right now.
JB Weld. The redneck's solve all! In all seriousness, it couldn't hurt to give it a shot. I think I would try Honda Bond or some other gasket sealant first. Let us know what you tried and how it goes. I would also suggest checking out my video on Honda axle seals. They will leak if not flush with the Trans case.
@@ktecgarage Thanks for your thoughts. I have been waffling back and forth in my mind about using honda bond or jbweld. Honda Bond might be better because I would put it in during seal installation instead of having to create a perfectly round seating surface with the JB weld. I think I will take that route. on another note when I put the shaft seal in I might not have gotten it perfectly flush so that might be causing some grief too. Not sure I want to push it in further and test it and then redo it again and test it......such a pain in the butt.
Hi. Would you know why the axles would come out again? Mine seems to be not locked in properly
They can appear to be all the way in, but when you drive the car, they can pop back out. After you push the axle in, grab the other side, pull back and then slam it in. Also, there is a c clip on the end of the axle that holds it in the transmission. If it's worn out or damaged, the axle can pop out. Good luck.
@@ktecgarage i think it might be the clips then
Pressed it in deep on my 07 accord automatic and it leaked twice I’m going to do it like this and hopefully it doesn’t leak lol
Yep. It's aggravating. Hope this video helps you get it fixed.
Well,Done!!
Thank you!
Ty for this video I have a national seal 712551 from the local auto part store and one from Part Greek online OEM Corteco 1903521B for a 2009 Honda Pilot Driver Side AND THERE IS DIFFERNT in Design. Mine is leaking using National . Im putting in the OEM Stuff back in. to resolve the leaking problem
Yep. OEM is a much better choice for that. And they aren't that expensive. Good Luck!
Thank you
👍
I did all this and it was fine for a week, but now it’s leaking fluid again from the new seal 😡
Ugh. Those things can be finicky! I feel your pain.
👍👏
Thank you!
@@ktecgarage witam. Czy olej spuszczać trzeba ? Pozdrawiam.
Very poor design to have a seal without a stop built into the casing. Just having it flush like that on the outside is nuts. I have seen many transaxle install videos not one mentioned this, and they actually sometimes say to use the 32 mm socket to seat the seal. Our 2009 Civic transmission has been a disaster anyhow, several sensors have gone out at random times and had to drive home in low gear.
I cuss engineers everytime I work on a car! Maybe they know something we don't about that seal.
Same here. I just replaced my 2009 Honda Civic starter, don't get me started on poor design. That and the quiet recall for the 8th gen Civic cracked block issue have me moving away from Hondas in the future. I just used a 36 mm socket to seat my seal and it seated it uneven because of me being under the car and having to use my hand pressure. I was nervous about using grease because I didn't want to contaminate my tranny fluid. No one talks about this. I know I have to be careful on my Mercedes.
I am seal
Yes you are!
I think I put my seal too far to in
Thank you I found this and can now fix it
Glad it helped you out. Good luck!