It would have been nice to see the engine data for the MAF sensor before and after to see how it improved or if it was even reading poorly to begin with.
Is it possible to have too rich and too lean codes on both banks? That’s what o have now. Is it bad to drive with these codes on? How long should I drive car like this ? I have Audi Rs5 B9 2019
My son has an 05 3s. His codes are 139, 2196, 2188. I cleaned his throttle body and maf sensor last week and it's still acting funny. A few yrs ago he had a motor mount break and my brother in law fixed it but while cleaning the throttle body I noticed under the air box that opening that seems like it should be connected to the huge pipe below it is not connected at all. Should that be my concern or just buy a new maf sensor?
Awesome video Anthony, very descriptive and a great break down of going through the steps. Helps viewers following along in the diagnosing procedure. I'm a big fan my friend, keep up these videos, grow you're channel it will be successful I believe in you brother I really do!!!!
Nice video. Just wondering if you checked the long term fuel trims? They should have been significantly negative at idel. Like -35% or so with the code on?
I was having the same problem. I like a lot mechanics and has repair a lot of cars and this problem was giving me head pain. Thank very much you for the idea!
Genius! Ive got a 2005 Mazda 3 23SP with error codes P2178 and P2188. Did what you recommended and VOILA no more check engine light. Do I still need to worry about the oxygen sensor any more? Also do you have any fixes for the passenger airbag light suddenly going on?
Glad this helped! FOr your airbag issue, check the passenger airbag connections located under the passenger seat. Remove the negative terminal of the battery and then disconnect all the connections and spray WD-40 in it. REconnect and reconnect the battery. Hope this works.
Since you disconnect the negative connection of the battery for a while, that will clear the check engine ligh off even if you did not fix the problem. Check engine could comeback on after a few mins driving or a couple of days. Now, my question is, did you fix the problem by just cleaning the mass air sensor?
@@AnthonyAwada Hi Anthony, I did what you did on your video and I also changed sparkplugs on my 2009 Mazda Mazda5 Sport. But Check Engine Light is back again. My car has 145k miles. It has new battery and oil changed since March. Good thing is engine is not shaking at all when idle, on reverse nor on drive. Diagnostic Computer shows P2188. I already reset computer twice. No bad gas smell coming out of the exhaust nor weird noises.
BrendenAerosmith 2001 Definitely can, unburnt fuel will make its way to the cat and clogg it. This of course happens if you let a car run rich for a long time without getting it fixed. If your engine light came on and suggests a new cat is needed then I have a trick that I've used and have had 100% success using. it will save you the cost of $1000 dollar cat. What you need to do is first of all fix the problem related to running rich, then fill the car up to half tank with gas and buy I gallon of lacquer thinner from Menards or any hardware store. Dump the entire 1 gallon into the car and drive the car until it is almost empty. Lacquer thinner will will burn very hot and clean the cat. Make sure you get rid of the gas and refill in 2 day. Any longer than that and the Lacquer thinner will eat the Fuel tank and fuel lines. I have seen this trick work sooo many times. let me know if you need further assistance.
very helpful! thanks! i got p2188 and 2190 system too rich at idle (without MIL but pending code) in my mercedes just after replace a bad coil(another code detected with MIL) i wonder if it has relation? or was coincidence because the fix happened in a very cold day. Another question: vacuum leak can cause system too rich or only too lean?
A vacuum leak will usually cause the system to run lean.The vacuum leak sucks air from the atmosphere therefore too much air is introduced to the engine. If it happened after a coil replacement, then I would check all the air hoses and make sure they have been returned to the correct location and plugged in. It is very common for air hoses to be forgotten and not plugged in.
Quick question bro I'm getting a check engine for thermostat malfunction & is not the sensor or the antifreeze & the car is not heating up or nothing bad ? What can be the problem
It's a bad thermostat my freind. It's a 30$ part at autozone and the labor is maybe $80. You can easily do it yourself though. All you need is coolant, thermostat, and some tools.
Hi! This is a tough one. Clearly, the car is running super lean. Either that's happening because of an unanticipated air coming in (vacuum leak somewhere). Or something wrong with a fuel delivery system not giving enough fuel (fuel pump, fuel filter, injector, etc). Could also be an 02 sensor as well. It would be best to review the fuel trim levels. That would tell you if it's insufficient fuel related, or too much air.
I got the same Code P2188 on my 2012 Audi A6 2.0 Premium Plus ... will try what you suggested and see what happens. (Bank 1, System too rich at idle) what does the; "open or short to plus" mean?.... Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Alexus Williams Hi Alexus, I did some research for you and here is what I found. Causes: 1)Open or short in harness 2)Improper harness connection 3)Low ambient temperature operation 4)G81 damaged 5)Controle Module faulty I would start with the cheap solutions. Checking connections, cleaning Mass air flow sensor, testing o2 sensors.
Alexus Williams Hi Alexus, I did some research for you and here is what I found. Causes: 1)Open or short in harness 2)Improper harness connection 3)Low ambient temperature operation 4)G81 damaged 5)Controle Module faulty I would start with the cheap solutions. Checking connections, cleaning Mass air flow sensor, testing o2 sensors. Keep me updated with your progress.
OK... I disconnected and reconnected the plugs for the B1 S1/S2 and cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor and the trouble code has not returned...Thanks the help....
Hey boss, I have a problem with my mazda3.. the engine light comes on with the error code p02188, but after two days the ligth goes off and then comes on again.. have been ligth that for almost 3 weeks... could you help me what can I do?
Hi Anthony thanks for the great video. I have a 2012 VW CC and i updated my timing chain tensioner in September. It started throwing CEL the very next day and i took it to the auto shop. They scanned it for code P2187 and told me to change my PCV. They charged $300 in labor for 2hrs to find the leak using Smoke test. It drove fine for 2 weeks and i started experiencing problems at low speed where the car feels like it's going to STOP. Today i had a CEL after 2 weeks since previous repair for code P2188 and they suggested to change my MAF. For now they have cleaned the sensor and told me to drive. I can still feel the hesitation and erratic RPM. What would you suggest me? Thanks Your video gave me a hope that changing MAF would balance the 'lean' and 'rich' condition.
I have a 2011 VW CC and experiencing the same issue! The codes are P2188 "System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1)", and later P2178 "System Too Rich Off Idle (Bank 1)" and P0301 "Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected". I suspect the issue is with the MAF sensor. Did you have luck by changing it, or was it something else at the end?
I have changed my plugs, plus wires, my coil pack and I'm still getting this damn code. I will get backfires when going up a hill like unburnt fuel is being ignited in the cat. My mass airflow is aftermarket but it's new as well. Edit i think it's filter or fuel pressure regulator related. I'm going to change that and the injectors and prey that take care of it.
I tried this, cleaned it very well, and the check engine went off because I unplugged battery, and came back after 5 restarts. 02 Sensor is pricey for my car. My scanner does not give details unfortunately. I just changed spark plugs, cleaned MAP sensor, gas cap was changed in January- Checked oil cap. If there is a leak I don’t know. I hate not knowing for sure. I really don’t want to take it in :/
Hi Anthony Awada - P2188 system runs too rich at bank 1, on 2009 CX-7. I just checked gas cap again, and when I turn it backwards, after three clicks, its loose. Is this normal? I just replaced it in January but I was sure the cap locked in place. Small detail, but If this is the issue its a cheaper fix than the 02 sensor at $289 plus tax and labor since I can’t lift the car to fix it myself nor have this 02 sensor key.
@@canadianjaneoriginal hey Jane, let's start with the cheapest option first. Sometimes MAF sensors could go bad, so check the harness to make sure that it isn't chewed up. Go to an autoparts store and buy a maf sensor and replace it. If it works, great. If not, make sure you can return it. There are a couple cheap options to fix an o2 sensor. But that's what I'd start with.
Anthony Awada I unplugged battery before cleaning the sensor absolutely. To replace it from Mazda here, its around $270 new as well. The harness looked good and I cleaned that with electrical spray cleaner as well. I can’t fix both the O2 sensor ($280 + labour) and the MAF $270) right now without certainty its one or other. I ordered a new gascap ($60) to try out. I will try that before replacing either sensors incase this 10 month old OEM gas cap is really defective as when I click it, it moves and does not stay put. By Thursday I should have a better clue. I might try cleaning the MAF one more time. I did not go inside much but focused on the tiny sensor instead. I thought over spraying it might do damage. Lots of carbon particles came off. I wanted to clean the air intake valve as well but its not very accessible. An aftermarket MAF is more reasonable at $70-$120. However these tend to fail sooner right? Prices in Canada are atrocious. I might check Rock Auto to see if even with exchange rate, its cheaper than ordering here!
hi my car Mazda cx7 2006 i have those code p2178-ff (system too rich off idle-bank) b1202-a0 fuel sender open circuit b1868-e0 b1994-20 and it run 250 km with full tank of 60 liter fuel. can you help plz
Haitham Amayreh Hi Haitham, your problem is the opposite that is discussed in the video. Running too rich means too much fuel. However I am glad to help you. Whenever possible please provide me with the engine size of your CX-7. Is it a 2.5L or a 2.3L Turbo.
Haitham Amayreh Hi Haitham here is a list that might help you. 1) Intake air leaks 2) Faulty front heated oxygen sensor Ignition misfiring 3) Faulty fuel injectors Incorrect fuel pressure 4) Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Incorrect 5)Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection. I would try cleaning the PCV hose first and checking all of your air hoses and makes sure they are all connected. If the code is still happening. I would highly recommend checking the Fuel pressure.
Hey buddy love your video have a 2010 Volkswagen CC had the same problem Same code clean the airflow sensor and end up replacing it now it runs great I see you're from Chicago so I'm I go Cubs
I’m in Uganda, got the same error and I decided to check look for a solution on TH-cam. My car is a tiguan 2011. It says too rich and too lean. Will try out this solution and see. Going to send it to my mechanic who opted to just remove the error saying that it doesn’t mean a thing.
try MAP sensor, vacuum hoses especially, 02 sensors, air intake temperature sensor. Might be your pcv system blocking pressure, MAP sensor displacing your pressure values, etc... most cars have common problems with this, try googling a lot of different terms
It's fine in high speeds but my car when at stop light it goes down feels like is gonna stall but never has stall & than goes back up does it a few times
Yes, clean that Mass Air flow sensor and throttle body. I would rule out fuel pump because your car is doing fine at high speeds. If cleaning the mass air flow sensor and it doesn't work then try to do a tune up to the car. Which includes but not limited to:1) Fuel cleaner2) Air filter3) spark plug change 4)oil change5) run some sea foam through the intake to get rid of carbon deposits.
You didn't actually clean the MAF sensor. You cleaned off the intake air temp sensor which is visible on the outer tube. you need to spray the cleaner down the tube where the hot wire is.
I have code P0172 gas mixture rich bank 1 ... + P0175 pending code rich mixture bank 2. The car hesitate before it accelerates. In idling the car is shaking somewhat. On high speed there is no issue. The voltage of O2 sensor bank 1 and bank 2 during high speed is 0.7 volts. The voltage becomes 0 to 0.1 when I go down hill and stop accelerating. I replaced the air filters which were extremely dirty, and cleaned the MAF. However no improvement and the codes still there. Any idea?
Hey Emmanuel, Your cars RPM will rise when your AC is on because your engine is working harder to turn the AC compressor. If its acting up really bad, check your accessory belt and your compressor.
Thanks Samuel. I appreciate the feedback. I film using my S5. I've been on the market however for a good quality camera to start using. Scotty Style ;)
Yeah maybe a g7x or sony alpha series. can't go wrong with cannon dslr's too , you can find budget bundles on amazon for cheap like a t5i bundle !! Finally , someone who has a channel about mazda ! Nice man !
There are two tiny resistor inside the air channel on that MAF, you sprayed the IAT sensor and missed those two resistor. Reason I know is I have the same design of MAF
Not sure if it's related to the thermostat. But I would change it to be safe. Here's why: Sounds like your thermostat is going bad. if that's the case the thermostat will stick open and the car will never reach operating temperature. Or your car will overheat. I recommend cleaning the mass air flow sensor with some cleaner. Which I posted in the description and follow this video. Hopefully that will solve your RPM issue.
+Giovanni Make sure you clean the mass air flow sensor and wiring harness. Also check your wiring to make sure there are not cuts in the wires leading to the mass air flow sensor. If all fails I would most probably assume a bad mass air flow sensor.
+Giovanni After that check to see if any vacuum hoses are disconnected. Or if there are cracked rubber hoses that are causing leaks. Many times that's the case. Then the only other thing is it could be a purge valve that is stuck open. I hope that's not the case because that involves removing the gas tank to get to.
Car running “rich” or “lean” means too much or insufficient fuel supply This means to much gas and not enough air or not enough gas and to much air in the mix ratio.
It could be that your AC compressor is seizing up. You could take a chance and only replace the compressor and accumulator/drier to be economical, crossing your fingers that the valve won't get jammed. The expansion thermal valve needs to be flushed. If the a/c was working fine throughout all this, and cost is a concern, you're probably OK with just the compressor and drier. If you noticed that a/c was dropping out while idling at red lights, but ok at higher speeds, you need to have the condenser fan looked at. Pulled this info from yahoo forum.
Anthony, send me you're email so I can msg you easier and we can chat. I'd like to tell you about an upcoming video I want to do and was hoping I could talk to you and get you're feedback. There's a cool story behind the parts that I got for doing this job on my Mazda 6 :)
Noah Rule Hi Noah! They used to own Mazda, but as you might recall. Ford sold its 33% stake in Mazda back to Mazda during the recession back in 2008. Mazda is currently publicly traded and is not influenced by another car manufacturer.
Tokyo Bro 95 Hi Tokyo, actually to be technical, it wasn't a partnership either. Mazda is obviously a publicly traded company. In the 90s-early 2000s, Mazda had a lot of financial trouble so Ford bought the majority of their shares (around 33%) which made them the largest shareholder of Mazda. Being the largest shareholder of Mazda meant that they were allowed to attend Mazda board meetings and had control and a say in Mazda projects. Later in 2008, Ford sold all their shares of Mazda because they were hurting for money. which meant they no longer had a say in Mazda's plans. I hope this clarifies, let me know if I made a mistake anywhere.
It would have been nice to see the engine data for the MAF sensor before and after to see how it improved or if it was even reading poorly to begin with.
That would have been an excellent suggestion. Apologies, I wish I thought of it before filming the video.
Is that posible with OBD Bluetooth?
Hey bro. Thanks for making this video. It worked with my 2009 Mazda 6. You're awesome. You got a new subscriber 😁
Is it possible to have too rich and too lean codes on both banks? That’s what o have now.
Is it bad to drive with these codes on? How long should I drive car like this ?
I have Audi Rs5 B9 2019
My son has an 05 3s. His codes are 139, 2196, 2188. I cleaned his throttle body and maf sensor last week and it's still acting funny. A few yrs ago he had a motor mount break and my brother in law fixed it but while cleaning the throttle body I noticed under the air box that opening that seems like it should be connected to the huge pipe below it is not connected at all. Should that be my concern or just buy a new maf sensor?
Awesome video Anthony, very descriptive and a great break down of going through the steps. Helps viewers following along in the diagnosing procedure. I'm a big fan my friend, keep up these videos, grow you're channel it will be successful I believe in you brother I really do!!!!
Nice video. Just wondering if you checked the long term fuel trims? They should have been significantly negative at idel. Like -35% or so with the code on?
I was having the same problem. I like a lot mechanics and has repair a lot of cars and this problem was giving me head pain. Thank very much you for the idea!
You are very welcome Adolfo, good luck!
My car has a p2188 with no check engine light on. When plugged into the computer, it’s still reads the code. The car is a 2012 ve Jetta. Any advise?
Genius! Ive got a 2005 Mazda 3 23SP with error codes P2178 and P2188. Did what you recommended and VOILA no more check engine light. Do I still need to worry about the oxygen sensor any more? Also do you have any fixes for the passenger airbag light suddenly going on?
Glad this helped! FOr your airbag issue, check the passenger airbag connections located under the passenger seat. Remove the negative terminal of the battery and then disconnect all the connections and spray WD-40 in it. REconnect and reconnect the battery. Hope this works.
My car has this issue and I have the same exact car! I really appreciate you making this video 💯
Since you disconnect the negative connection of the battery for a while, that will clear the check engine ligh off even if you did not fix the problem. Check engine could comeback on after a few mins driving or a couple of days. Now, my question is, did you fix the problem by just cleaning the mass air sensor?
Hello Abel, light never came back on. This video was posted after 800 mile testing.
@@AnthonyAwada Hi Anthony, I did what you did on your video and I also changed sparkplugs on my 2009 Mazda Mazda5 Sport. But Check Engine Light is back again. My car has 145k miles. It has new battery and oil changed since March. Good thing is engine is not shaking at all when idle, on reverse nor on drive. Diagnostic Computer shows P2188. I already reset computer twice. No bad gas smell coming out of the exhaust nor weird noises.
having same problem on 2011 buick lacrosse cxl ^
@@aavalos163maybe check highpressure fuelpump, sparkplugs or injectors 🤷♂️
Could an engine running too rich also damage the catalytic converter? My grandmas 2005 lesabre has a po420 code and it needs a new catalytic converter
BrendenAerosmith 2001 Definitely can, unburnt fuel will make its way to the cat and clogg it. This of course happens if you let a car run rich for a long time without getting it fixed. If your engine light came on and suggests a new cat is needed then I have a trick that I've used and have had 100% success using. it will save you the cost of $1000 dollar cat. What you need to do is first of all fix the problem related to running rich, then fill the car up to half tank with gas and buy I gallon of lacquer thinner from Menards or any hardware store. Dump the entire 1 gallon into the car and drive the car until it is almost empty. Lacquer thinner will will burn very hot and clean the cat. Make sure you get rid of the gas and refill in 2 day. Any longer than that and the Lacquer thinner will eat the Fuel tank and fuel lines. I have seen this trick work sooo many times.
let me know if you need further assistance.
very helpful! thanks! i got p2188 and 2190 system too rich at idle (without MIL but pending code) in my mercedes just after replace a bad coil(another code detected with MIL) i wonder if it has relation? or was coincidence because the fix happened in a very cold day.
Another question: vacuum leak can cause system too rich or only too lean?
A vacuum leak will usually cause the system to run lean.The vacuum leak sucks air from the atmosphere therefore too much air is introduced to the engine. If it happened after a coil replacement, then I would check all the air hoses and make sure they have been returned to the correct location and plugged in. It is very common for air hoses to be forgotten and not plugged in.
Hi did you manage to solve the p2188/2190 codes? How did you go about it?
Quick question bro I'm getting a check engine for thermostat malfunction & is not the sensor or the antifreeze & the car is not heating up or nothing bad ? What can be the problem
It's a bad thermostat my freind. It's a 30$ part at autozone and the labor is maybe $80. You can easily do it yourself though. All you need is coolant, thermostat, and some tools.
You left a hose that was disconnected next to the mas before you refitted the plastic covers. You can see this clearly on your video.
Ok thank you really helpful what spark plugs do you use on a mazda6 2006 2.3 non turbo. Wich are the best
You are welcome. NGK iridium or if yoy dont find them get Motor craft.They both come pre gaped. And are excellent.
Have you ever seen a mazda have both p2188 and p2177..
Hi! This is a tough one. Clearly, the car is running super lean. Either that's happening because of an unanticipated air coming in (vacuum leak somewhere). Or something wrong with a fuel delivery system not giving enough fuel (fuel pump, fuel filter, injector, etc). Could also be an 02 sensor as well. It would be best to review the fuel trim levels. That would tell you if it's insufficient fuel related, or too much air.
I got the same Code P2188 on my 2012 Audi A6 2.0 Premium Plus ... will try what you suggested and see what happens. (Bank 1, System too rich at idle) what does the; "open or short to plus" mean?.... Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Alexus Williams Hi Alexus, I did some research for you and here is what I found.
Causes:
1)Open or short in harness
2)Improper harness connection
3)Low ambient temperature operation
4)G81 damaged
5)Controle Module faulty
I would start with the cheap solutions. Checking connections, cleaning Mass air flow sensor, testing o2 sensors.
Alexus Williams Hi Alexus, I did some research for you and here is what I found.
Causes:
1)Open or short in harness
2)Improper harness connection
3)Low ambient temperature operation
4)G81 damaged
5)Controle Module faulty
I would start with the cheap solutions. Checking connections, cleaning Mass air flow sensor, testing o2 sensors. Keep me updated with your progress.
Thanks for the prompt reply... I will do that first thing in the morning... what is G81?
Alexus Williams I believe it's the Fuel temperature Sensor A.
OK... I disconnected and reconnected the plugs for the B1 S1/S2 and cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor and the trouble code has not returned...Thanks the help....
Hey boss, I have a problem with my mazda3.. the engine light comes on with the error code p02188, but after two days the ligth goes off and then comes on again.. have been ligth that for almost 3 weeks... could you help me what can I do?
Hi Anthony thanks for the great video. I have a 2012 VW CC and i updated my timing chain tensioner in September. It started throwing CEL the very next day and i took it to the auto shop. They scanned it for code P2187 and told me to change my PCV. They charged $300 in labor for 2hrs to find the leak using Smoke test. It drove fine for 2 weeks and i started experiencing problems at low speed where the car feels like it's going to STOP. Today i had a CEL after 2 weeks since previous repair for code P2188 and they suggested to change my MAF. For now they have cleaned the sensor and told me to drive. I can still feel the hesitation and erratic RPM. What would you suggest me? Thanks
Your video gave me a hope that changing MAF would balance the 'lean' and 'rich' condition.
Spark and coils?
Hey Trilok, I hope by now you found a solution. Usually a MAF goes bad electricily and cleaning it won't save it.
I have a 2011 VW CC and experiencing the same issue! The codes are P2188 "System Too Rich at Idle (Bank 1)", and later P2178 "System Too Rich Off Idle (Bank 1)" and P0301 "Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected". I suspect the issue is with the MAF sensor. Did you have luck by changing it, or was it something else at the end?
At least it sounds cooler when it runs rich
And picks up like mad
The CEL turned off initially because you took off the negative in the battery. But good video.
I have changed my plugs, plus wires, my coil pack and I'm still getting this damn code. I will get backfires when going up a hill like unburnt fuel is being ignited in the cat. My mass airflow is aftermarket but it's new as well. Edit i think it's filter or fuel pressure regulator related. I'm going to change that and the injectors and prey that take care of it.
I’m having the same problem . What turned out to be the problem ?
حساس ماف مشترك بين الضفتين كيف أصبح العطل في الضفة الأولى فقط ؟
I tried this, cleaned it very well, and the check engine went off because I unplugged battery, and came back after 5 restarts. 02 Sensor is pricey for my car. My scanner does not give details unfortunately. I just changed spark plugs, cleaned MAP sensor, gas cap was changed in January- Checked oil cap. If there is a leak I don’t know. I hate not knowing for sure. I really don’t want to take it in :/
Hi Jane, what code is showing up on your car?
Hi Anthony Awada - P2188 system runs too rich at bank 1, on 2009 CX-7. I just checked gas cap again, and when I turn it backwards, after three clicks, its loose. Is this normal? I just replaced it in January but I was sure the cap locked in place. Small detail, but If this is the issue its a cheaper fix than the 02 sensor at $289 plus tax and labor since I can’t lift the car to fix it myself nor have this 02 sensor key.
@@canadianjaneoriginal hey Jane, let's start with the cheapest option first. Sometimes MAF sensors could go bad, so check the harness to make sure that it isn't chewed up. Go to an autoparts store and buy a maf sensor and replace it. If it works, great. If not, make sure you can return it. There are a couple cheap options to fix an o2 sensor. But that's what I'd start with.
@@canadianjaneoriginal sometimes if you unplug a MAF sensor from the car without disconnecting the battery, it can destroy the sensor.
Anthony Awada I unplugged battery before cleaning the sensor absolutely. To replace it from Mazda here, its around $270 new as well. The harness looked good and I cleaned that with electrical spray cleaner as well. I can’t fix both the O2 sensor ($280 + labour) and the MAF $270) right now without certainty its one or other. I ordered a new gascap ($60) to try out. I will try that before replacing either sensors incase this 10 month old OEM gas cap is really defective as when I click it, it moves and does not stay put. By Thursday I should have a better clue. I might try cleaning the MAF one more time. I did not go inside much but focused on the tiny sensor instead. I thought over spraying it might do damage. Lots of carbon particles came off. I wanted to clean the air intake valve as well but its not very accessible. An aftermarket MAF is more reasonable at $70-$120. However these tend to fail sooner right? Prices in Canada are atrocious. I might check Rock Auto to see if even with exchange rate, its cheaper than ordering here!
hi
my car Mazda cx7 2006
i have those code p2178-ff (system too rich off idle-bank)
b1202-a0 fuel sender open circuit
b1868-e0
b1994-20
and it run 250 km with full tank of 60 liter fuel.
can you help plz
Haitham Amayreh Hi Haitham, your problem is the opposite that is discussed in the video. Running too rich means too much fuel. However I am glad to help you. Whenever possible please provide me with the engine size of your CX-7. Is it a 2.5L or a 2.3L Turbo.
hi boos
2.3l turbo
Haitham Amayreh Hi Haitham here is a list that might help you.
1) Intake air leaks
2) Faulty front heated oxygen sensor Ignition misfiring
3) Faulty fuel injectors Incorrect fuel pressure
4) Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor Incorrect
5)Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection.
I would try cleaning the PCV hose first and checking all of your air hoses and makes sure they are all connected. If the code is still happening. I would highly recommend checking the Fuel pressure.
Hey buddy love your video have a 2010 Volkswagen CC had the same problem Same code clean the airflow sensor and end up replacing it now it runs great I see you're from Chicago so I'm I go Cubs
Haha! yes, Go Cubs! I'm glad you got your car running again!
I’m in Uganda, got the same error and I decided to check look for a solution on TH-cam. My car is a tiguan 2011. It says too rich and too lean. Will try out this solution and see. Going to send it to my mechanic who opted to just remove the error saying that it doesn’t mean a thing.
Nice Channel you make it very simple ! Def going to keep watching your videos :)
Thanks man.
Hey Anthony it’s been 1 year and I cleaned the throttle body changed the oil cleaned the maf sensor again but it is still rich
try MAP sensor, vacuum hoses especially, 02 sensors, air intake temperature sensor. Might be your pcv system blocking pressure, MAP sensor displacing your pressure values, etc... most cars have common problems with this, try googling a lot of different terms
It's fine in high speeds but my car when at stop light it goes down feels like is gonna stall but never has stall & than goes back up does it a few times
Yes, clean that Mass Air flow sensor and throttle body. I would rule out fuel pump because your car is doing fine at high speeds. If cleaning the mass air flow sensor and it doesn't work then try to do a tune up to the car. Which includes but not limited to:1) Fuel cleaner2) Air filter3) spark plug change 4)oil change5) run some sea foam through the intake to get rid of carbon deposits.
Thank you so much this fixed it for my 08 Mazda 3
You didn't actually clean the MAF sensor. You cleaned off the intake air temp sensor which is visible on the outer tube. you need to spray the cleaner down the tube where the hot wire is.
What it maf g/s
I have code P0172 gas mixture rich bank 1 ... + P0175 pending code rich mixture bank 2. The car hesitate before it accelerates. In idling the car is shaking somewhat. On high speed there is no issue. The voltage of O2 sensor bank 1 and bank 2 during high speed is 0.7 volts. The voltage becomes 0 to 0.1 when I go down hill and stop accelerating. I replaced the air filters which were extremely dirty, and cleaned the MAF. However no improvement and the codes still there. Any idea?
A what if mi car idles bad when ac is on
Hey Emmanuel, Your cars RPM will rise when your AC is on because your engine is working harder to turn the AC compressor. If its acting up really bad, check your accessory belt and your compressor.
Great video thanks for sharing!
One suggestion though your audio is a little bit too low.
Thanks Samuel. I appreciate the feedback. I film using my S5. I've been on the market however for a good quality camera to start using. Scotty Style ;)
Yeah maybe a g7x or sony alpha series. can't go wrong with cannon dslr's too , you can find budget bundles on amazon for cheap like a t5i bundle !! Finally , someone who has a channel about mazda ! Nice man !
+Samuel Pong I will look into both! I will be doing more Mazda videos as well as reviews on newer models.
Nice I am in love with their new skyactive tech as well , and I'm also in this huge group of protege members on facebook !
+Samuel Pong I'm on the Mazdaspeed forums. Haha we are very alike.
There are two tiny resistor inside the air channel on that MAF, you sprayed the IAT sensor and missed those two resistor. Reason I know is I have the same design of MAF
Daniel Coching You are 100% correct Daniel. In cases where cars are running to lean, it seems to be the MAF that is misreading.
Anthony Awada working on my Volvo. Long trim is -2 b1 and -3 b2. No code but still figuring why not close to 0
How can this affect the car I been driving mi car like this for like 2 months & nothing bad has happened other than mi Rpms kind of going Down
Not sure if it's related to the thermostat. But I would change it to be safe. Here's why: Sounds like your thermostat is going bad. if that's the case the thermostat will stick open and the car will never reach operating temperature. Or your car will overheat. I recommend cleaning the mass air flow sensor with some cleaner. Which I posted in the description and follow this video. Hopefully that will solve your RPM issue.
Wat about Bosch ?????
Sorry for the late response. Bosch is great aswell!!!
At least the radio was still working
Always an important feature :)
Omfg thanks bro this is amazing I thought I would've never found a video for this
You are very welcome. I am glad I could help. Hope it works out for you.
+Anthony Awada Hey man umm I did what you said in the video but it still continues do I have to bring it to a mechanic ??
+Giovanni Make sure you clean the mass air flow sensor and wiring harness. Also check your wiring to make sure there are not cuts in the wires leading to the mass air flow sensor. If all fails I would most probably assume a bad mass air flow sensor.
+Giovanni After that check to see if any vacuum hoses are disconnected. Or if there are cracked rubber hoses that are causing leaks. Many times that's the case. Then the only other thing is it could be a purge valve that is stuck open. I hope that's not the case because that involves removing the gas tank to get to.
Wouldn't be a bad idea to check the fuel pressure and injectors for any leaks or improper fuel pressure.
Car running “rich” or “lean” means too much or insufficient fuel supply This means to much gas and not enough air or not enough gas and to much air in the mix ratio.
Yes, you are correct.
Thanks mate
Mazda cx7 2006 2.3 Turbo
I have the same vehicle with 110,000 miles and always running with engine light on. Always is something.
What fix the problem pls help
It feels like is gonna stalk then it goes up
It could be that your AC compressor is seizing up. You could take a chance and only replace the compressor and accumulator/drier to be economical, crossing your fingers that the valve won't get jammed. The expansion thermal valve needs to be flushed. If the a/c was working fine throughout all this, and cost is a concern, you're probably OK with just the compressor and drier. If you noticed that a/c was dropping out while idling at red lights, but ok at higher speeds, you need to have the condenser fan looked at.
Pulled this info from yahoo forum.
@7:02 Behind every great man is a great woman
Simp.
Anytime bro i mean it, was just amazing
Does this 2188 code also apply to a 2016 accent?
Many thanks
You are very welcome! :)
Thanks!!!
DENNIS Haton You're very welcome!
Omg this help soo much especially the spray i didnt know wat to use and ur explanation was perfect thnx so much🔥
Thanks Nick!
Very instructional, thanks. FYI the airbox has 4 clamps, one is buried at back left, when facing the front of the vehicle.
Anthony, send me you're email so I can msg you easier and we can chat. I'd like to tell you about an upcoming video I want to do and was hoping I could talk to you and get you're feedback. There's a cool story behind the parts that I got for doing this job on my Mazda 6 :)
Richard Vaughan Sure thing! aa876@lab.icc.edu
Ford owns mazda
Noah Rule Hi Noah! They used to own Mazda, but as you might recall. Ford sold its 33% stake in Mazda back to Mazda during the recession back in 2008. Mazda is currently publicly traded and is not influenced by another car manufacturer.
👍
Noah Rule Ford never owned Mazda. Why tf do people keep saying this. It was a partnership and ford never once owned mazda
Tokyo Bro 95 Hi Tokyo, actually to be technical, it wasn't a partnership either. Mazda is obviously a publicly traded company. In the 90s-early 2000s, Mazda had a lot of financial trouble so Ford bought the majority of their shares (around 33%) which made them the largest shareholder of Mazda. Being the largest shareholder of Mazda meant that they were allowed to attend Mazda board meetings and had control and a say in Mazda projects. Later in 2008, Ford sold all their shares of Mazda because they were hurting for money. which meant they no longer had a say in Mazda's plans. I hope this clarifies, let me know if I made a mistake anywhere.
Anthony Awada you are correct but was clarifying that Ford has never owned mazda. They have broken up since 2010 tho
Thank you!!!!