I little tip for anyone who may have trouble pulling the crankshaft pulley after successfully removing the bolt. I installed a puller as suggested and put tremendous pressure on it with no success. Eventually I decided that vibration may help so I removed the puller and used an air hammer (pistol sized air "jackhammer") to vibrate the inner pulley hub. A small hammer and punch may get the same results. The cone shaped bushing inside the pulley hub loosened right up and I took the whole pulley off by hand.
Thanks for the video . I have a s type r that has a vacuum leak from front seal. I have the whole front of engine disassembled but I can't break the bolt loose. What's the name of the tool your using to hold the pulley ? Any help be great. I've been dealing with a lean codes for some time now and after several shops I smoke tested the intake myself and found a lot of smoke billowing from crank. Help.
Mike, sorry to hear you are having problems with your car. I did a couple of videos on the pulley tools see links th-cam.com/video/PRiABhZAYkA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/pDxH4IzvzsU/w-d-xo.html The trick is to hold the pulley and get a lot of leverage on the bolt. It’s frighteningly tight and got keep the pulley from moving hence the special tool. You can make tools yourself. Hope that helps regards Damian
Hey sir I do have a question, it may have been asked before. What is the Tap size you were using to thread the holes on the pulley? I bought the crank pulley kit to remove the pulley. Not sure what the bolt size is. Thank you in advance. Vincent
Vincent, thank you for your question. I was using a M16x2.0 final or plug tap. I didn't remove any thread only cleaned out the thread lock. Hope that answers your question. Also made a short video for you, link at the bottom, regards Damian th-cam.com/users/shortsdz-csmAVUtI?feature=share
Thankyou for all these videos and the messages of encouragement, our barn find non runner is now a runner!!!! Any idea how to clear the restricted performance message?
Richard, thanks for the compliment and comment. Nice to hear you’ve got your car running. Might suggest buying a code reader or ODB2 dongle and reading the error code details if you can. The fault could be a number of things, including the battery not charged properly or starting to fail. Regards Damian.
I used your examples to make the tool to hold the crankshaft pully on my XKR. The bold was very tight as you said it would be but it came loose. Have you ever had trouble getting the pully to slide off the crankshaft after the bolt is out? I have a heavy duty puller and it is terribly stuck. I left it this evening with penetrating oil on the surface of the crank and pully, and a bunch of pressure applied to the puller. I did apply a moderate amount of heat to the inside of the bully with a propane torch but am concerned about getting it too hot. Does this pully/harmonic balancer have rubber in it? I think it does...Great video's.
Jim, depending of the year the location of the pulley if different. You are correct it’s a rubber bonded part. The rubber provides the harmonic isolation. Need to be careful using heat. Early cars it’s just thread lock on a plain shaft with or without an ‘O’ ring to seal. This is what mine had. I believe later cars this was upgrade to a split tapered collet design. You might be fighting thread lock, O ring or collet or all three. I pulled the pulley using the threaded holes as the outside of the pulley has some give due to the rubber construction. I got coolant in mine see this video Spark Plugs and Coil Packs LHS Bank V21 Jaguar XK8 / XKR (X100) Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment regards Damian
I made the one I used (with a laser cutter) because they are over £70 to purchase on eBay. You can find them by search under “Jaguar Crankshaft pulley tool”. I am currently making EP5-2 Crankshaft pulley tools which will give all the details (sizes etc) of the DIY Version. However, post it over the weekend. Thanks for watching.
Anyone got any suggestions? I’m doing timing chains on a 2001 xk8. The pulley bolt initially broke loose but on the way out it seems to have got looser and then tighter. I darent give it too much more because my socket has started slipping off. Do I do it back up and try to work it loose or man up and pull real hard???
Richard, the bolt is retained with a lot of thread lock. Mine didn’t come ‘loose’ and was quite tight. Might just be a build up of that with any luck. I tapped mine out before refitting the new bolt, there was a lot in the crankshaft threads. Fingers crossed that’s what it is. Good luck regards Damian
Richard, great news glad you got it sorted without having to get serious with it. Best tap out the crankshaft for remove all the thread lock. That’s the hardest bit done👍. Good luck with the rest of the job. Keep us informed of your progress, regards Damian
Thank you - in high anticipation of doing my Daimler SV8 -- old git, UK
Stephen, no problem, good luck with the work on your car, regards Damian
I little tip for anyone who may have trouble pulling the crankshaft pulley after successfully removing the bolt. I installed a puller as suggested and put tremendous pressure on it with no success. Eventually I decided that vibration may help so I removed the puller and used an air hammer (pistol sized air "jackhammer") to vibrate the inner pulley hub. A small hammer and punch may get the same results. The cone shaped bushing inside the pulley hub loosened right up and I took the whole pulley off by hand.
Jim, thanks for the suggested solution to removing the collet design crankshaft pulley. Good info, much appreciated, regards Damian
Thanks for the video . I have a s type r that has a vacuum leak from front seal. I have the whole front of engine disassembled but I can't break the bolt loose. What's the name of the tool your using to hold the pulley ? Any help be great. I've been dealing with a lean codes for some time now and after several shops I smoke tested the intake myself and found a lot of smoke billowing from crank. Help.
Mike, sorry to hear you are having problems with your car. I did a couple of videos on the pulley tools see links th-cam.com/video/PRiABhZAYkA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/pDxH4IzvzsU/w-d-xo.html The trick is to hold the pulley and get a lot of leverage on the bolt. It’s frighteningly tight and got keep the pulley from moving hence the special tool. You can make tools yourself. Hope that helps regards Damian
Hey sir I do have a question, it may have been asked before. What is the Tap size you were using to thread the holes on the pulley? I bought the crank pulley kit to remove the pulley. Not sure what the bolt size is. Thank you in advance. Vincent
Vincent, thank you for your question. I was using a M16x2.0 final or plug tap. I didn't remove any thread only cleaned out the thread lock. Hope that answers your question. Also made a short video for you, link at the bottom, regards Damian
th-cam.com/users/shortsdz-csmAVUtI?feature=share
Thankyou for all these videos and the messages of encouragement, our barn find non runner is now a runner!!!! Any idea how to clear the restricted performance message?
Richard, thanks for the compliment and comment. Nice to hear you’ve got your car running. Might suggest buying a code reader or ODB2 dongle and reading the error code details if you can. The fault could be a number of things, including the battery not charged properly or starting to fail. Regards Damian.
@@ODRModurol any code reader suggestions, my current one was a £12 Chinese!
I used your examples to make the tool to hold the crankshaft pully on my XKR. The bold was very tight as you said it would be but it came loose. Have you ever had trouble getting the pully to slide off the crankshaft after the bolt is out? I have a heavy duty puller and it is terribly stuck. I left it this evening with penetrating oil on the surface of the crank and pully, and a bunch of pressure applied to the puller. I did apply a moderate amount of heat to the inside of the bully with a propane torch but am concerned about getting it too hot. Does this pully/harmonic balancer have rubber in it? I think it does...Great video's.
Jim, depending of the year the location of the pulley if different. You are correct it’s a rubber bonded part. The rubber provides the harmonic isolation. Need to be careful using heat. Early cars it’s just thread lock on a plain shaft with or without an ‘O’ ring to seal. This is what mine had. I believe later cars this was upgrade to a split tapered collet design. You might be fighting thread lock, O ring or collet or all three. I pulled the pulley using the threaded holes as the outside of the pulley has some give due to the rubber construction. I got coolant in mine see this video Spark Plugs and Coil Packs LHS Bank V21 Jaguar XK8 / XKR (X100) Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment regards Damian
Curious where to acquire the locking lever and size of the lever?
I made the one I used (with a laser cutter) because they are over £70 to purchase on eBay. You can find them by search under “Jaguar Crankshaft pulley tool”. I am currently making EP5-2 Crankshaft pulley tools which will give all the details (sizes etc) of the DIY Version. However, post it over the weekend. Thanks for watching.
@@ODRModurol THANK YOU
Owen, what is the torque specs on installing the new bolt is it 300 ft lbs?
The torque required is circa 365Nm according to the manuals. Thank’s Damian
Anyone got any suggestions? I’m doing timing chains on a 2001 xk8. The pulley bolt initially broke loose but on the way out it seems to have got looser and then tighter. I darent give it too much more because my socket has started slipping off. Do I do it back up and try to work it loose or man up and pull real hard???
Richard, the bolt is retained with a lot of thread lock. Mine didn’t come ‘loose’ and was quite tight. Might just be a build up of that with any luck. I tapped mine out before refitting the new bolt, there was a lot in the crankshaft threads. Fingers crossed that’s what it is. Good luck regards Damian
@@ODRModurol Thankyou for the reply. I think I’ll just take my time with this one then.
@@chroniclesofanewlife3737 Due to the thread lock it will probably fight all the way until it’s practically out. Regards Damian
@@ODRModurol thanks Damian, got it in the end with much patience and a little heat. The bolt is damaged but the new bolt appears to go in ok. Phew!!!!
Richard, great news glad you got it sorted without having to get serious with it. Best tap out the crankshaft for remove all the thread lock. That’s the hardest bit done👍. Good luck with the rest of the job. Keep us informed of your progress, regards Damian