Some of you with ND Miatas may be surprised to find that you need an 8mm hex instead of a 17mm regular socket to remove your oil drain plug. You might want to check before your first oil change project.
The more I see people learning how to do tasks like this on their vehicles, the more I realize how lucky I was in many ways to grow up around mechanics and blue collar workers in general. Especially when it comes to the tools required for some of these...I always had access to them through family and gradually bought my own or had them gifted. I can't imagine having to buy ramps, and chucks, and a socket set...or if you were REALLY wanting to spend money, a jack and jack stands. Also, a tip...loosen the oil cap before removing the drain plug, sometimes it will make it drain faster...might not make much difference on more modern cars though.
Because I had a nightmare of a time filling my FRS, I actually do one extra step with filling the oil. I bought a $2 measuring cup from the dollarstore dedicated to filling oil. I pour 90% of the amount in, get the car down to level ground, let oil settle, check the fill line, then pour in the remaining 10% if it's not enough. It has worked like a charm. I hate reading the level in the jugs of oil - they're SO difficult to read. Also, I love the little comedy bits and your editing style Mr. Miyada! Twenty more weeks until my 2023 ND2 RF comes in.. so I'm binging all your videos
Ahh nice, I’m a former FRS owner! The one thing I dearly miss is the top mounted oil filter. Toyobaru was genius for having that. Enjoy your new MX-5 when it arrives!
@@MisterMiyada Yeah I was disappointed to see all the oil stuff hidden away behind a cover! I'm still going to get a quick valve regardless! Thanks man 😆
Excellent video! Fantastic humor! As someone who’s done their own oil changes forever, one hint I found on an ND is that big pan on the bottom has a slot on one side. Don’t take that screw all the way out. It can hold the pan while you take the other side opposite out. That might make it a little easier and faster for you.
Thank you! Balancing that plate to put it back on literally put a knot in my shoulder. Looking forward to being able to turn my head and wave hi to people after my next oil change.
Fun video! Lots of good info too. I always do my oil changes so that it is done right. Have heard too many stories from friends of stripped oil plugs, loose oil plugs or filters, under or over filled at these quick lube places. I can’t justify the cost at the dealer either. Thanks to you and your neighbor for sharing!
Super creative videos! I hope you keep your MX-5 for awhile to make more content and gain larger viewership. Your brand would be unique vs. existing Miata communities. Tips I learned on my ND DIY oil changes: 1. Replace the stock drain plug with an easy drain valve like Fumoto F106-N + a hose make it much simpler and cleaner 2. Use a thicker plastic bag over the oil filter, then loosen and remove, capturing most of the mess 3. Buy your oil and filter of choice in bulk rather than per change to amortize your diy savings
I never thought of the bag around the filter. But I will say if you're asian and you don't have a fumoto drain valve, you're wrong. I have one on my Ford E250 5.4L and it's never given me a problem.
Good vid for first timers, except one of the questions first-timers always ask is what to do with the old oil, and how to transport it. I funnel it into old liquid detergent bottles or the old 5 qt oil bottles. I tie up my filter, soiled shop gloves and towels in plastic grocery bag. Then take it all to the local auto store's collection bin.
Yes it is less money compared to having any shop do the change. Wal Mart Mobil One 0W-20 runs about $26 bucks. Filters at my local dealer are $12 bucks. And my drain plug never gets over tightened and my filter either.
Excellent video as always - entertaining… thank you! One small pet peeve. The “W” when referring to oil weight denotes “winter” not “weight.” “M” is for “more.” More videos please,!
@@MisterMiyada oh well… just ‘cause I’m feeling all ‘know it all,’ the idea is a 0W-20 or multi-grade oil, acts like a “traditional” 0 weight oil when cold (winter) as a thinner oil circulates quickly to provide protection at start-up, and a 20 weight (heavier grade) once it has warmed up - hence the term multi-grade oil. Back in the day before multi-grade oils, you’d typically run a heavier weight oil in summer, say a 30 or 40 weight, and a thinner oil such as a 10 weight in winter. Multi-grade oil essentially “adjusts” its viscosity as ambient and engine temperatures vary. Science is pretty cool. Please keep making the videos, there’s few more entertaining than yours! I hope you’re enjoying the summer.
California Home Hazardous Waste facilities used to give away and then later exchange your used oil containers creating a few minute visit to your local county HHW facility. Make sure your drain plug or pan bolts don't fall into your oil drain container plug hole. Some containers do not have a bolt catch mesh. Save your receipts for your warranty records. By the way how many miles do you go between oil changes? Oil drain plug bolt is likely approx 7 to 25 pounds, please don't exceed whatever number is specified for your model vehicle. You never want to strip out the oil pan threads. Some oil plug bolts are magnetic to catch any metal from normal engine wear so wipe the plug off with a shop towel. To capture any metal.
To keep oil from getting all over your gloves, floor, anywhere else, stick a small shop vac hose in the very top of oil filler hole or tube. Use electrical tape to create a little tighter of a seal so the vacuum hose doesn’t move. Turn on the vac. Then remove the oil plug. No oil will come out. Turn off the shop vac and you immediately get more consistent flow, instead of the burst when the bolt comes off. Also, take a small punch, punch a hole in the old filter and let it drain. Lookie there! Not a drop of oil on your floor! You’re welcome.
So the first time when it leaked was it two washers? First time I took the plug off I'm looking at it no silver ring so I'm thinking the washer must have fallen into the oil pan. I was looking for the washer in the oil pan and couldn't find it. Then I realized that it was painted on and spent 10 minutes trying to pry it off. Yeah Mazda please don't paint the washer onto the drain plug. Thanks for the video I've done one oil change so far. I used jack stands. Was thinking of getting ramps but wasn't sure if I'd be able to get my 21 club (has the front lip) which looks identical to yours onto ramps. I guess I know what ramps to buy now :) Thanks!
Yes my washer incident was due to the painted washer as well…. Maybe a short video pointing that out would help first timers as well? Also yes, my ND is stock suspension and clears the ramp even with the front lip on the Club trim. Thanks for stopping by and sharing!
Hey, I am looking for guidance on an oil change for my ND, but someone appears to have come into my garage and made off with all of my tools? Possibly a neighbor??
I frequently do not trust "OEM" wear parts. As OEM makers want to build as cheap as possible and skimp wherever they can as 2 dollars on 3 million cars adds up. However luckily in this specific case Tokyo ROKI actually builds the MX5 filter. This is a very high quality part so how lucky for us. However many Mazda SUV's in the US are getting a dirt cheap Purolator filter with a Mazda badge on it. So research the "OEM" wear part don't buy into the "they must know best" mantra. Actually know don't guess.
A very loose measure I take is how much new oil remains in the 5 quart container I buy from the store after checking the oil level in the car and achieving a good oil line on the dipstick. But again this is a very loose measure.
Some of you with ND Miatas may be surprised to find that you need an 8mm hex instead of a 17mm regular socket to remove your oil drain plug. You might want to check before your first oil change project.
The more I see people learning how to do tasks like this on their vehicles, the more I realize how lucky I was in many ways to grow up around mechanics and blue collar workers in general. Especially when it comes to the tools required for some of these...I always had access to them through family and gradually bought my own or had them gifted. I can't imagine having to buy ramps, and chucks, and a socket set...or if you were REALLY wanting to spend money, a jack and jack stands.
Also, a tip...loosen the oil cap before removing the drain plug, sometimes it will make it drain faster...might not make much difference on more modern cars though.
Because I had a nightmare of a time filling my FRS, I actually do one extra step with filling the oil. I bought a $2 measuring cup from the dollarstore dedicated to filling oil. I pour 90% of the amount in, get the car down to level ground, let oil settle, check the fill line, then pour in the remaining 10% if it's not enough. It has worked like a charm. I hate reading the level in the jugs of oil - they're SO difficult to read. Also, I love the little comedy bits and your editing style Mr. Miyada! Twenty more weeks until my 2023 ND2 RF comes in.. so I'm binging all your videos
Ahh nice, I’m a former FRS owner! The one thing I dearly miss is the top mounted oil filter. Toyobaru was genius for having that. Enjoy your new MX-5 when it arrives!
@@MisterMiyada Yeah I was disappointed to see all the oil stuff hidden away behind a cover! I'm still going to get a quick valve regardless! Thanks man 😆
Planning my first break in oil change in the ND.
Good to know I don’t need to jack up the whole car, like I’ve seen in so many other videos.
Thx
Excellent video! Fantastic humor! As someone who’s done their own oil changes forever, one hint I found on an ND is that big pan on the bottom has a slot on one side. Don’t take that screw all the way out. It can hold the pan while you take the other side opposite out. That might make it a little easier and faster for you.
Thank you! Balancing that plate to put it back on literally put a knot in my shoulder. Looking forward to being able to turn my head and wave hi to people after my next oil change.
Did it once, and never again LOL. Good job! The neighbors might ask you to do their oil change now!
Funny actually, The neighbor drives an electric car.
Fun video! Lots of good info too. I always do my oil changes so that it is done right. Have heard too many stories from friends of stripped oil plugs, loose oil plugs or filters, under or over filled at these quick lube places. I can’t justify the cost at the dealer either. Thanks to you and your neighbor for sharing!
It’s very nice to know that your car’s health is in good hands. I’m sure my neighbor would say you’re very welcome.
Super creative videos! I hope you keep your MX-5 for awhile to make more content and gain larger viewership. Your brand would be unique vs. existing Miata communities.
Tips I learned on my ND DIY oil changes:
1. Replace the stock drain plug with an easy drain valve like Fumoto F106-N + a hose make it much simpler and cleaner
2. Use a thicker plastic bag over the oil filter, then loosen and remove, capturing most of the mess
3. Buy your oil and filter of choice in bulk rather than per change to amortize your diy savings
These are the words of a genius! Thank you Anthony.
I never thought of the bag around the filter. But I will say if you're asian and you don't have a fumoto drain valve, you're wrong. I have one on my Ford E250 5.4L and it's never given me a problem.
Good vid for first timers, except one of the questions first-timers always ask is what to do with the old oil, and how to transport it. I funnel it into old liquid detergent bottles or the old 5 qt oil bottles. I tie up my filter, soiled shop gloves and towels in plastic grocery bag. Then take it all to the local auto store's collection bin.
Top tier advice right here. I take my old oils and soils to Walmart for disposal.
Good video! I use the same oil- I just use the mobile 1 filter and change it every 3500 miles. Can’t go wrong!
Yes it is less money compared to having any shop do the change. Wal Mart Mobil One 0W-20 runs about $26 bucks. Filters at my local dealer are $12 bucks.
And my drain plug never gets over tightened and my filter either.
Excellent video as always - entertaining… thank you!
One small pet peeve. The “W” when referring to oil weight denotes “winter” not “weight.”
“M” is for “more.” More videos please,!
Thanks for calling that W out. It’s interesting that it doesn’t come up more often when buying it from retailers or suppliers.
@@MisterMiyada oh well… just ‘cause I’m feeling all ‘know it all,’ the idea is a 0W-20 or multi-grade oil, acts like a “traditional” 0 weight oil when cold (winter) as a thinner oil circulates quickly to provide protection at start-up, and a 20 weight (heavier grade) once it has warmed up - hence the term multi-grade oil.
Back in the day before multi-grade oils, you’d typically run a heavier weight oil in summer, say a 30 or 40 weight, and a thinner oil such as a 10 weight in winter. Multi-grade oil essentially “adjusts” its viscosity as ambient and engine temperatures vary.
Science is pretty cool.
Please keep making the videos, there’s few more entertaining than yours! I hope you’re enjoying the summer.
Love the videos brother! Your humor is effortless and so funny 🤣
Better off going to Costco and buying a case of Mobil 1. 6 individuals quarts. Alot easier to measure 4.5 qts.
California Home Hazardous Waste facilities used to give away and then later exchange your used oil containers creating a few minute visit to your local county HHW facility. Make sure your drain plug or pan bolts don't fall into your oil drain container plug hole. Some containers do not have a bolt catch mesh.
Save your receipts for your warranty records.
By the way how many miles do you go between oil changes?
Oil drain plug bolt is likely approx 7 to 25 pounds, please don't exceed whatever number is specified for your model vehicle. You never want to strip out the oil pan threads.
Some oil plug bolts are magnetic to catch any metal from normal engine wear so wipe the plug off with a shop towel. To capture any metal.
I go about 5000 miles between changes.
@@MisterMiyada thanks.
Drive your car to the neighbors garage and use his tool grab something from his fridge. leave an oil spill
To keep oil from getting all over your gloves, floor, anywhere else, stick a small shop vac hose in the very top of oil filler hole or tube. Use electrical tape to create a little tighter of a seal so the vacuum hose doesn’t move. Turn on the vac. Then remove the oil plug. No oil will come out. Turn off the shop vac and you immediately get more consistent flow, instead of the burst when the bolt comes off. Also, take a small punch, punch a hole in the old filter and let it drain. Lookie there! Not a drop of oil on your floor! You’re welcome.
U should make a video showing us how to change brake and rotors thank u! Or maybe starter..Becus there’s no video on TH-cam only the old Miata
When it’s time for a brake and rotor upgrade, I’ll definitely cover it. Disclaimer: I may or may not get it right.
So the first time when it leaked was it two washers? First time I took the plug off I'm looking at it no silver ring so I'm thinking the washer must have fallen into the oil pan. I was looking for the washer in the oil pan and couldn't find it. Then I realized that it was painted on and spent 10 minutes trying to pry it off. Yeah Mazda please don't paint the washer onto the drain plug. Thanks for the video I've done one oil change so far. I used jack stands. Was thinking of getting ramps but wasn't sure if I'd be able to get my 21 club (has the front lip) which looks identical to yours onto ramps. I guess I know what ramps to buy now :) Thanks!
Yes my washer incident was due to the painted washer as well…. Maybe a short video pointing that out would help first timers as well? Also yes, my ND is stock suspension and clears the ramp even with the front lip on the Club trim. Thanks for stopping by and sharing!
Third time's a charm, right?!
Three times the harm, yes!
so...bring my RF to your place to do my oil change. Got it.
If only my neighbor had a car that took 0w-20 oil. I think we’d all be set!
Hey, I am looking for guidance on an oil change for my ND, but someone appears to have come into my garage and made off with all of my tools? Possibly a neighbor??
I frequently do not trust "OEM" wear parts. As OEM makers want to build as cheap as possible and skimp wherever they can as 2 dollars on 3 million cars adds up. However luckily in this specific case Tokyo ROKI actually builds the MX5 filter. This is a very high quality part so how lucky for us. However many Mazda SUV's in the US are getting a dirt cheap Purolator filter with a Mazda badge on it. So research the "OEM" wear part don't buy into the "they must know best" mantra. Actually know don't guess.
Thanks for the top tip!
Good job! Nice video!
I have ND2 2022 and oil Mazda Supra X 0W20 should I switch to Mazda's 5W30 Ultra? Do you have any losses on the oil dipstick?
I personally have not used 5W30. What kind of climate are you driving in? No loss of oil for me so far… at least none that weren’t my fault.
I heard it was recommended that car be level to get every last drop of the old oil out. Any guess as to how much is left not having the car level?
A very loose measure I take is how much new oil remains in the 5 quart container I buy from the store after checking the oil level in the car and achieving a good oil line on the dipstick. But again this is a very loose measure.
free.99$ lolll
Amazon boxes. Lay those out on the floor. Ur garage will thank you.
Top tip right here!