If you're using the crowfoot with a torque wrench, you want it oriented at 90° exactly to the shaft of the wrench. If you have it at another angle, you may be applying more or less torque than expected. There are websites available to help you calculate the correct torque setting if you can't orient at 90°. (Sorry if you mentioned this, but I didn't see it)
I just followed your video to change all the fluids in my 23 nd2. Thank you! It was my first time doing car maintenance and your video made it super easy.
Thanks for a really good guide! A small detail to add... it is a bonus to pre-fill the oil filter before installation, especially when it is orientated as on this car so you don't get oil spilling everywhere when screwing it on 😂 👍
grazie mille per tuoi video, mi aiutano spesso nei lavori alla mia mx5 nd, complimenti per le spiegazioni, e per tutte le info che metti nella descrizione, grazie mille infinite 👍
Great video! I'm trying to decide between motul 8100 or pennzoil ultra platinum for my new ND3 GT. Both are excellent oils and are frequently recommended by Miata owners and mechanics. Motul is nearly 50% more expensive than PUP in the US, so I'm not sure it's worth the the extra cost. I will definitely use Motul gear 300 oils for the manual and diff, though. I gotta look into getting a set of quick lifts, so much easier than fighting with a floor jack and stands.
Ciao Maz. Great video as usual! Just a question. I heard that some people fill the new oil filter with oil before putting it in place. But you did not do it. Right? I guess it is not necessary then. Help
So after that much time what do you think about the Motul Gear 300? Shifting etc.? I recently changed brake and clutch fluid (they are basically the same) to Ravenol Dot3/4Dot4. The difference in braking is noticable (better) I also have to say that the brake/cltutch system's fluid was actually DIRTY. I mean it looked cloudy and strange. And I have a 2020 ND2. Thanks in advance!
I have had no issues at all with the Gear 300 for the trans. However I don't park the car outside and don't winter drive it so cannot comment on the shift engagement in cold conditons to any detailed extent. But the times it has been and with the car parked outside it has not been any issues that I can remember. I use Motul RBF600 as brake fluid but it will require more "maintenance" than regular "street" fluid. E.g. bleeding/flushing
@@Themazcorner thanks! I was think about replacing the original trans fluid much earlier than needed. I’m not sure it’s needed. Ok, I’m sure it’s not needed, but after seeing how dirty the brake fliud was only after 3 years I’m not sure anymore about the quality and lifetime of the OEM fluids to be honest. I just flushed the clutch lines too actually. And looked even more dirty/milky than in the brake lines. Im glad the motul stuff worked for you.
So I just replaced the trans (ravenol 75w90) and diff (motil gear 300 LS) fluid. The shifing feel after a few km is noticeably better than before. Only 1.9 L came out of the trans and only about 0.5L from the diff! I checked the diff oil level with my phone before draining and I didnt see the oil in it!!! This was factory fill. The oil level was lower by least 10mm in the diff, zero leak btw. I have no idea how this happened. Also the trans oil was dirty as hell. Microscopic metal shavings, pieces of brown sealant at the bottom, small non magnetic shiny bits?! Shifting is now a bit easier (despite non mazda fluid), gear whine while accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear is a little bit louder but just a bit. Let’s see. I might replace the trans fluid again in 10.000 km or so just out of curiosity. Now I would really like to know if i get less or more metal in it. I know the original was the break-in oil but still. Thanks again for the video!
@@Themazcorner A bit of an update: The cold weather came and shifting into 2nd or out of 1st gear bacame very hard and notchy, shifting into reverse around freezing temp became almost impossible. I puth Motul Gear 300 in it and it was even worse. With the Gear300 all shifts became notchy a bit even when warmed up, althout the real problem was in cold weather during the first 2-3 km. Then I put the Original Long Life IS oil in the car after I finally manged to get some. Happy to report than things are back to normal again. Or better actually. And shomehow the gear whine is less noticable although the IS oil is WAY LESS viscous.
the most time consuming part is to get the car in the air if you are on jack stands and draining the fluids. I would say if you give yourself 1.5-2.5h in total you should be fine
Good video! I have a 30th anniversary like yours, and now that the warranty is over I'm considering doing the maintenance myself. The doubt I have is that if I don't go to the official Mazda service, the car will lose sale value, nor could I demonstrate the maintenance carried out. What is your opinion? Thak´s!
In Sweden we have an extended warranty (more or less an insurance for a totalt of 10 years). So the cars needs to be serviced at a dealer every year or by 10000km to retain the warranty. I do my own oil changes plus the dealer service intervals. As always it is best to have the receipt that the service has been done by a dealer even though it does not mean that it has been done any better than you doing it yourself. I cannot comment on as such if you would see any diminished value or not. But if if you decided to do it yourself keep the receipts and maybe take pictures everytime you do the oil changes.
@@Themazcorner Thank you very much for your opinion Mazz!!! The official Spanish services generate distrust in me. I'm going to choose to do it myself and make a video for my youtube channel.
The previous ownyer of mx5 ND2 did the oild change himself. It looked like he didnt know he will loose the warranty... but I didn't really care. I will go on this road myself too. The car is very easy to work on actually. What I do is that I save all the receipes of the oils, filters and everything and I put the maintenance data in Spritmonitor with date and what I did on the car. I think the best way (if you do the maintanence yourself) is to go to a shop and ask for an inspection (brake check, fluids, and so on.) and upload the report together with vehicle pictures. Yes, you might me able to sell it a bit cheaper, but also spared some money through the way. And it's alos fun to work on these I have to say. Good luck!
@TheMazCorner - What size is the Crows Foot for the fill plug on the transmission. It doesn’t seem to be mentioned on the video. Also, a neat feature I learned about on my Miata (USDM ND2) is that after completing an engine oil and filter change, you can depress the accelerator pedal and press the start button and the engine will crank without firing. This allows the engine and oil filter to fully prime before firing up the engine. The engine will crank indefinitely without firing so long as you have the accelerator depressed to the floor. Do it as long as you feel the engine and oil filter need in order to prime and then release to stop the cranking. Proceed to do normal starting procedure and fire the engine and you’re done. -Alex.
It's 24mm, I think I mentioned in the beginning of the video. Also one thing to think of is to have the crow foot in 90 degrees check e.g www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench Yeah I have heard of that method but was thinking the parts have the oil film on them as the car had not been sitting for e.g during hibernation but good point still. Might give that a go next time. Thanks for the input
I used 5w30 here in the summer to deal with heat, now that it's close to winter,i switched back to 0w30 and i swear to you the engine is more responsive and smoother. I have a 2020 ND2 but was curious if anyone else experienced the slight difference when changing viscosity specs?
Great video. Thank you. But I have a question. The maintenance manual of nd mentions "gl4 only". I found that the label on the back of the motul 300 bottle you used is gl4/gl5, which makes me a little confused. Does it work normally? Like corrosiveness...
Glad you liked it! Should not be any problmes.A lot of people are running the Motul fluid. With that said e.g walter motorsports and other do recommend Motul 75w-140 Competition for the trans. But with the 140 weight it would need a bit of warming up to be smooth shifting.
Sorry for the late reply! Thank you and glad you like it! I was considering redline for the diff and trans but as I know motul stuff is great in general hence why I went with that as it is also somewhat easier to get hold of here in Sweden. Maybe the shifts are a bit smoother now when cold, I have been to the track after I did the fluid changes and it worked really well and no issues!
Did your model have a Limited Slip Diff? The MOTUL you used for the differential specifies it it NOT for use with LSDs. Did your Mazda Mechanic have any issue with you using that?
This car was designed to be as light as possible. The cross brace is more than adequate. I think adding heavier bracing would introduce unnecessary weight and be a waste of money. I'd spend that money on upgrading sway bars, which does make a huge difference.
@@Themazcorner 13:50 as an example but I just realized that when you said "I will do 35" you probably meant newton-meters but since you said it right after ft-lbs I took it as ft-lbs. Disregard and my apologies if I misunderstood.
For some markets the ND manual even says 5w-30(or 0w-20)(it does so in mine as well which is for the Swedish market). If driving the car all year around in cold weather the 0w-20 may be the way to go or 0w-30. I have my car parked in a garage and don't drive all year around and when I drive it I drive it relatively hard(and in warm weather) so for me the 5w-30 is fine
In non-US markets, the manual recommends 5w-30 or even 10w-30 in Mexico. The only reason the US uses 0w-20 is for better gas mileage to meet CAFE standards. Higher viscosity is better for the engine, especially for these direct injection ones.
This is not correct. 5W-30 is better for this engine than 0W-20 (unless you're in severely cold climates 6+ months/year). You'll give up about 2% fuel economy with the 5W-30.
I replaced my oil + filter last weekend, OW20 was used before (Mazda Germany where the car was sold), so I did the same. I imported the car to Belgium, currently 32.000km, 2017 2.0 GT-M softtop. Low mileage since a purely hobby car when the sun shines. Had an NC 6 years prior to the ND. It’s nice to have a Miata available. If only the summer would cooperate a little bit better 😚
I just did thenoil change a few weeks ago with 5w30 fully synthetic. Funny is that there are not too many “real” synthetic oild in 5w30 viscosity. Many who track their cars use 10w40 or even 50 oils. But for everyday use 0w20 is also perfect. I just like to use the revramge so i put 5w30 in mine. Funny thing is that even to 0w20 is recommended (5w30 allowed) in my other car (Civic 1.5 Turbo) the honda dealer puts 5w30 in the cars there.
If you're using the crowfoot with a torque wrench, you want it oriented at 90° exactly to the shaft of the wrench. If you have it at another angle, you may be applying more or less torque than expected. There are websites available to help you calculate the correct torque setting if you can't orient at 90°. (Sorry if you mentioned this, but I didn't see it)
You are absolutely correct! I'll see if I can add a text in some way.
Thanks for the input
I just followed your video to change all the fluids in my 23 nd2. Thank you! It was my first time doing car maintenance and your video made it super easy.
thank you! Glad it helped out!
Thanks for a really good guide!
A small detail to add... it is a bonus to pre-fill the oil filter before installation, especially when it is orientated as on this car so you don't get oil spilling everywhere when screwing it on 😂 👍
Great to see you have links to the Official Mazda manual!
Try to whenever available!
Great video. At what mileage would you do the transmission and differential fluids for a non-tracked car?
grazie mille per tuoi video, mi aiutano spesso nei lavori alla mia mx5 nd, complimenti per le spiegazioni, e per tutte le info che metti nella descrizione, grazie mille infinite 👍
Thank you very much, glad they help, the videos may not be perfect but hopefully helps out a bit on the way.
Grazie
Very good info and great preventative maintenance.👍🏼
thank you!
Glad you liked it.
Great video! I'm trying to decide between motul 8100 or pennzoil ultra platinum for my new ND3 GT. Both are excellent oils and are frequently recommended by Miata owners and mechanics. Motul is nearly 50% more expensive than PUP in the US, so I'm not sure it's worth the the extra cost. I will definitely use Motul gear 300 oils for the manual and diff, though. I gotta look into getting a set of quick lifts, so much easier than fighting with a floor jack and stands.
Very useful, Love your Garage set up
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
I have some updated for the garage! Will hopefully post some videos on that topic :)
Ciao Maz. Great video as usual! Just a question. I heard that some people fill the new oil filter with oil before putting it in place. But you did not do it. Right? I guess it is not necessary then. Help
Hello, thank!
Mazda has in the manual how much to fill if filling or not filling the filter!
So after that much time what do you think about the Motul Gear 300? Shifting etc.?
I recently changed brake and clutch fluid (they are basically the same) to Ravenol Dot3/4Dot4. The difference in braking is noticable (better) I also have to say that the brake/cltutch system's fluid was actually DIRTY. I mean it looked cloudy and strange. And I have a 2020 ND2.
Thanks in advance!
I have had no issues at all with the Gear 300 for the trans. However I don't park the car outside and don't winter drive it so cannot comment on the shift engagement in cold conditons to any detailed extent.
But the times it has been and with the car parked outside it has not been any issues that I can remember.
I use Motul RBF600 as brake fluid but it will require more "maintenance" than regular "street" fluid. E.g. bleeding/flushing
@@Themazcorner thanks! I was think about replacing the original trans fluid much earlier than needed. I’m not sure it’s needed. Ok, I’m sure it’s not needed, but after seeing how dirty the brake fliud was only after 3 years I’m not sure anymore about the quality and lifetime of the OEM fluids to be honest.
I just flushed the clutch lines too actually. And looked even more dirty/milky than in the brake lines. Im glad the motul stuff worked for you.
So I just replaced the trans (ravenol 75w90) and diff (motil gear 300 LS) fluid. The shifing feel after a few km is noticeably better than before. Only 1.9 L came out of the trans and only about 0.5L from the diff! I checked the diff oil level with my phone before draining and I didnt see the oil in it!!! This was factory fill. The oil level was lower by least 10mm in the diff, zero leak btw. I have no idea how this happened.
Also the trans oil was dirty as hell. Microscopic metal shavings, pieces of brown sealant at the bottom, small non magnetic shiny bits?!
Shifting is now a bit easier (despite non mazda fluid), gear whine while accelerating in 3rd and 4th gear is a little bit louder but just a bit. Let’s see. I might replace the trans fluid again in 10.000 km or so just out of curiosity. Now I would really like to know if i get less or more metal in it. I know the original was the break-in oil but still.
Thanks again for the video!
@@Themazcorner A bit of an update: The cold weather came and shifting into 2nd or out of 1st gear bacame very hard and notchy, shifting into reverse around freezing temp became almost impossible. I puth Motul Gear 300 in it and it was even worse. With the Gear300 all shifts became notchy a bit even when warmed up, althout the real problem was in cold weather during the first 2-3 km.
Then I put the Original Long Life IS oil in the car after I finally manged to get some. Happy to report than things are back to normal again. Or better actually. And shomehow the gear whine is less noticable although the IS oil is WAY LESS viscous.
I just bought ND1 2016 Mazda Miata Club Manual and curious to know if Motul300 75W90 is the same for both Gearbox and LSD?
Looks like a full day's job! How long does that normally take you?
the most time consuming part is to get the car in the air if you are on jack stands and draining the fluids.
I would say if you give yourself 1.5-2.5h in total you should be fine
Good video! I have a 30th anniversary like yours, and now that the warranty is over I'm considering doing the maintenance myself. The doubt I have is that if I don't go to the official Mazda service, the car will lose sale value, nor could I demonstrate the maintenance carried out. What is your opinion? Thak´s!
In Sweden we have an extended warranty (more or less an insurance for a totalt of 10 years). So the cars needs to be serviced at a dealer every year or by 10000km to retain the warranty.
I do my own oil changes plus the dealer service intervals.
As always it is best to have the receipt that the service has been done by a dealer even though it does not mean that it has been done any better than you doing it yourself.
I cannot comment on as such if you would see any diminished value or not. But if if you decided to do it yourself keep the receipts and maybe take pictures everytime you do the oil changes.
@@Themazcorner Thank you very much for your opinion Mazz!!! The official Spanish services generate distrust in me. I'm going to choose to do it myself and make a video for my youtube channel.
The previous ownyer of mx5 ND2 did the oild change himself. It looked like he didnt know he will loose the warranty... but I didn't really care. I will go on this road myself too. The car is very easy to work on actually. What I do is that I save all the receipes of the oils, filters and everything and I put the maintenance data in Spritmonitor with date and what I did on the car. I think the best way (if you do the maintanence yourself) is to go to a shop and ask for an inspection (brake check, fluids, and so on.) and upload the report together with vehicle pictures. Yes, you might me able to sell it a bit cheaper, but also spared some money through the way. And it's alos fun to work on these I have to say. Good luck!
@TheMazCorner - What size is the Crows Foot for the fill plug on the transmission. It doesn’t seem to be mentioned on the video.
Also, a neat feature I learned about on my Miata (USDM ND2) is that after completing an engine oil and filter change, you can depress the accelerator pedal and press the start button and the engine will crank without firing. This allows the engine and oil filter to fully prime before firing up the engine. The engine will crank indefinitely without firing so long as you have the accelerator depressed to the floor. Do it as long as you feel the engine and oil filter need in order to prime and then release to stop the cranking. Proceed to do normal starting procedure and fire the engine and you’re done.
-Alex.
It's 24mm, I think I mentioned in the beginning of the video. Also one thing to think of is to have the crow foot in 90 degrees check e.g
www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench
Yeah I have heard of that method but was thinking the parts have the oil film on them as the car had not been sitting for e.g during hibernation but good point still. Might give that a go next time.
Thanks for the input
Got it. Just wanted to confirm. Thanks for the response and you’re welcome.
@@alexflores5020 it's quick job, what takes time is to remove the braces/covers and draining the oils :D
Super!! Thanks a lot!!
thank, glad you liked it and hope it helps some what!
I used 5w30 here in the summer to deal with heat, now that it's close to winter,i switched back to 0w30 and i swear to you the engine is more responsive and smoother. I have a 2020 ND2 but was curious if anyone else experienced the slight difference when changing viscosity specs?
i really like your electric quick jack !! could you please give me some details (brand, model, where to buy) thanks and grazie
The one I have! They(quickjack) have som newer models now, similar but different sizes
th-cam.com/video/3vvuH5GvfZ4/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Thank you. But I have a question. The maintenance manual of nd mentions "gl4 only". I found that the label on the back of the motul 300 bottle you used is gl4/gl5, which makes me a little confused. Does it work normally? Like corrosiveness...
Glad you liked it!
Should not be any problmes.A lot of people are running the Motul fluid. With that said e.g walter motorsports and other do recommend Motul 75w-140 Competition for the trans. But with the 140 weight it would need a bit of warming up to be smooth shifting.
@@Themazcorner Thank you so much for your reply! I think I might choose between motul and amsoil. Maybe you have some suggestions? Thanks again :-P
@@teengrounsun550 motul :)
@@Themazcorner i see.THX
Thanks for the video. Did you consider any other transmission and diff oils besides Motul? Also, did you notice any difference shifting after?
Sorry for the late reply!
Thank you and glad you like it!
I was considering redline for the diff and trans but as I know motul stuff is great in general hence why I went with that as it is also somewhat easier to get hold of here in Sweden.
Maybe the shifts are a bit smoother now when cold, I have been to the track after I did the fluid changes and it worked really well and no issues!
@@Themazcorner That's good to be hear. The Mazda oils are surprisingly difficult to find so I may follow your lead as well. Thanks again.
I am curious as well as the MOTUL he used for the differential is NOT for use with LSDs.
The gear 300 LS is for LSD differentials
www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/gear-300-ls-75w90
Correct. But the version you used in your video was not the LS version . Did your Mazda tech still say the regular version was ok?@@Themazcorner
I know I should be able to find it in the manual but how often do I need to do the transmission and differential oil?
Yours looks pretty dark. How many miles you had then? Thanks
Great job! How long does it take?
For me quick for you .... hahaha. I forgot to time it, did intend to do so. But let's say 15-20 min for each
Did your model have a Limited Slip Diff? The MOTUL you used for the differential specifies it it NOT for use with LSDs. Did your Mazda Mechanic have any issue with you using that?
Yes the car has an LSD, the automatic counterpart does not have I am not mistaken.
The Motul Gear 300 LS is designed to be used with LSDs
What do you think about the under braces? They look pretty thin, I'm thinking about changing them with the IL Motorsport ones.
This car was designed to be as light as possible. The cross brace is more than adequate. I think adding heavier bracing would introduce unnecessary weight and be a waste of money. I'd spend that money on upgrading sway bars, which does make a huge difference.
@@dlg5485 I don't need them, I'm good with Ohlins coilover
@@dlg5485 Aftermarket swaybars are heavier too
Where can I get a new washer for the differential oil drain plug?
I got my washers from the local mazda dealer
How many bottles you use in the diferencial and in the transmisión
did you watch the video :P
I also have a link to the shop manual in the description
how did you keep your under chassis clean
Don't drive when it rains 😂
How many miles are in vehicle?
At that time I think 14000km
Why even use a torque wrench and torque specs if you were already planning on exceeding those torque specs anyway? Makes no sense to me.
What part are you referring to? The shop manual specifies a span for the torque. For which of bolts are the torque exceeded?
@@Themazcorner 13:50 as an example but I just realized that when you said "I will do 35" you probably meant newton-meters but since you said it right after ft-lbs I took it as ft-lbs. Disregard and my apologies if I misunderstood.
@@notafanboy250 I live in europe so I go with the metric system :)
5w 30 is too much for the engine，use 0w 20. The engine isn't making that much power，no need for such thick oil
For some markets the ND manual even says 5w-30(or 0w-20)(it does so in mine as well which is for the Swedish market). If driving the car all year around in cold weather the 0w-20 may be the way to go or 0w-30.
I have my car parked in a garage and don't drive all year around and when I drive it I drive it relatively hard(and in warm weather) so for me the 5w-30 is fine
In non-US markets, the manual recommends 5w-30 or even 10w-30 in Mexico. The only reason the US uses 0w-20 is for better gas mileage to meet CAFE standards. Higher viscosity is better for the engine, especially for these direct injection ones.
This is not correct. 5W-30 is better for this engine than 0W-20 (unless you're in severely cold climates 6+ months/year). You'll give up about 2% fuel economy with the 5W-30.
I replaced my oil + filter last weekend, OW20 was used before (Mazda Germany where the car was sold), so I did the same. I imported the car to Belgium, currently 32.000km, 2017 2.0 GT-M softtop.
Low mileage since a purely hobby car when the sun shines. Had an NC 6 years prior to the ND.
It’s nice to have a Miata available. If only the summer would cooperate a little bit better 😚
I just did thenoil change a few weeks ago with 5w30 fully synthetic. Funny is that there are not too many “real” synthetic oild in 5w30 viscosity. Many who track their cars use 10w40 or even 50 oils. But for everyday use 0w20 is also perfect. I just like to use the revramge so i put 5w30 in mine. Funny thing is that even to 0w20 is recommended (5w30 allowed) in my other car (Civic 1.5 Turbo) the honda dealer puts 5w30 in the cars there.