Those brass welded spots are factory and were done by Ford to hold the panels in place when the car was being built in 1967. Those quarter panels on that car were never replaced and every vintage Mustang has a little brazing like that especially around the tail light panel area.
In my opinion this is the only way to begin a serious restoration. The result is a piece that is rust free and all its sins and faults are exposed so they can be addressed correctly.
@@minute_of_dangle So, I was wondering what your customer do to prevent oxidation immediately after this process? Not familiar with ECoating.... But, seems you would not have a lot of time to protect it. Thanks in advance for your response.
@@sea_turtle_adventures the last dip Inhibits rust even after the rinse. It takes days for it to flash up. But we dip the car in a rust inhibitor after everything’s said and done. It lasts up to 30 days
I've been considering different options on my 1929 model A tudor and started to watch your videos to learn, needless to say I'm definitely going this route, yes it's more expensive initially but in the long run I'm sure I will make that back in savings on time and going over hidden repairs, now just to find someone in South Australia lol
No worries, dont worry about us... the faithful will be here. Shes got a lot that needs to be fixed, but there is LOTS of potential. Thank you for another awesome video, keep up the amazing work.🙏💜
The brazing on the panel joints is original. Cheap repairs were done 30+ years ago, when these cars where nothing else than cheap beaters. The crazy price increases that warrant extensive & expensive repairs is a relatively recent phenomenon.
Great job guys, it better to start from scratch 👏, I like perfection 😊 it's gotta look better than manufactured. It's an investment to someone or it been in the family from first purchased, I love the older cars 🚗. 50,s 60,s and 70,s models from performance to the 2 tone family car has something good to talk about. My neighbors 1977 Leyland mini clubman is just on the verge of completion 🎉 and it looks eye popping.😮. ❤from New Zealand supporters.
How do you dry out all the enclosed cavities? I know it is dipped in rust inhibitor but I am guessing that can't protect forever against trapped or pooled water in cavities? Or does the coating it gets later on displace any trapped water?
Great way to start a full restoration with a clean pallette. I worked in local full service shop and I ran the radiator shop when I was there along with regular repair work. We had a hot tank where I soaked the radiator for an hour or so it removed all the paint and all of the corrosion the solder work was much easier this way. Dirty work but satisfying
I haven't heard of dipping cars for a long time up in Canada because the process was basically dumped due to environmentalists (as usual), lack of volume and cost. I can remember there were very few shops back in the day locally, and guys used US operators. My question would be, have they solved the issues we had in the past regarding acid remaining in the pinch welds because the neutralizing process wasn't good enough to penetrate and do its' job back then? We had a lot of problems with acid trapped in the seams that would bleed out during and after the restoration and cause all kinds of headaches.
Thanks for sharing and being a good host. It seems a distant time ago I had heard of using this process of restoration as a recourse for certain situations. But as I had understood that information, it was not done every time but in certain circumstances. I have never seen anyone do this course of treatment before. I find it fascinating. How long have you been doing this.Someone earlier in the comments said every restoration should begin like this. Is that true? FYI I have never and will never restore anything in life but in the workshop of my mind. Any info would be appreciated. Once again thank you.
All of the dipping and chemistry makes sence and produces an excellent outcome. My question is how do you prevent any flash rusting from your shop to the owner?
How do you keep the steel from flash rusting? Any time I've ever cleaned metal that bare it rusts within minutes of being cleaned up, especially if pressure washed clean.
Hi MoD. If I can give an advice on high pressure washer: avoid Karcher. there are now pure shiet, even on their professional "grey line" (I don't even talk about the plastic yellow crap you can find at homedepot etc etc). If you want something that last, I highly suggest Kränzle, another German brand, but being in a serious other level in terms of quality.
@@wayne9518the Alkaline just neutralizes the acid so it doesn't continue to eat away at the metal. The main strip is definitely achieved with a real acid bath.
No that acid or alkaline is very weak solution. That's why the cars stay submerged for 2-3 days. Pepsi or some hand soaps are more acidic/alkaline than the solutions in that tank. It's not how strong, it's how long it stays in the tanks.
@@tehsimo Yes...or around the same. That's why it takes 2-3 days per dip in the tanks. And it takes 2-3 dips plus vigorous power washing 2x. This content provider already said it was Food Grade chemicals in the tanks in another video's comment section.
Question- after the final acid bath and rinse off, how is the body treated to prevent rust where there is no access to spray primer on it? The factory dips the bodies in primer. What do folks do in this situation where they have the body dipped in acid? Enjoy your content!
We dip it in a rust inhibitor then 75% of our customers have the whole body primer dipped or Ecoated after the process. Graber enterprises in elkhart Indiana has Ecoated some cars after we dipped them. They said our cars are the cleanest he’s ever seen. The owners names Doug and he told me to give his number out if anyone had any questions about ecoating after dipping. Give him a call (574) 202-4636
I had a two-year old ‘67 Mustang in high school (yeh, I’m old), and the car had rust within a year. Florida car, not a northern car. Shiny paint and rust bubbles at all chrome attachment points.
The brazing on your car was probably done at Ford as this was how they did it in the day. The best way you can tell if a panel has been replaced is if the factory spot welds are still intact. Most shops do not have the ability to do this.
Is there a certain “work time” you have after it comes out of the bath to pressure wash all of the paint off? For example, if you don’t get the paint off within 2 hrs it has to go back in the bath?
Question ? do you also have a tank for dipping it in some kind of anti rusting chemicals like Zink chromate or other rust proofing coatings. Better to do it now if possible.
A lot of chemistry, big problems to recycle them. Take the price of this scrap vehicle and opposite acid bath, derusting, welding, colors and working and so on. Is it worthwhile?
I don’t know if you have time to read your comments but if so could you tell me approximately how much this cost? I know why the rot hole in the front right is there because that’s just below where the battery goes. This car is 98% better than most when you get a 60’s car down to bare metal. If you happen to know if anyone does this process in the Carolina’s I would appreciate it. I live in Charleston, South Carolina
@@inspectadrift8478 I was kind of hoping even the owner or other expert would know the real story. I think there is only one id, on the left side area. (my 67 gta fairlane is up on the front cowl area). I wonder if something was grafted on to that car after major front damage especially with both sides being modified and with the seemingly unmatching bad rust on the front of the rails. The rest of the car looks pretty good. Nowadays they have better ways to straighten frames etc, but back then we didn't think much about grafting on parts. Those cars had no crush engineering like today's cars anyway. I have a friend with a 66 hertz shelby and it is actually his old 65 fastback shell with all of the shelby transferred over as it had major front damage. It has that as part of it's story and taking another unibody to fix it is just what any body shop would do if it was a mess. I don't even know if you could buy a unibody from ford if you wanted one.
@@ricoludovici2825 This era Mustang, like the Falcons they were based on, were not dipped in primer. The cowl metal was galvanized and then welded together. There was no way for the painters to reach into the cowl so the inside of the cowl had just the galvanizing to protect the metal. Eventually dirt, leaves, road salt got into the cowl, the galvanizing would be depleted, and the tin worm would take over. Keep in mind these cars were built to sell cheap. The designers and engineers assumed most cars would be junked from 5-10 years they hit the road. I'm sure the people who designed and built these cars would have said you were crazy if you told them people would still be fascinated with them 60 years after they first went on sale.
People have grown accustomed to the POV type of videoing. It’s also a lot quicker. I’m on the clock so I can’t really take a lot of time to set equipment up. I’m very fortunate that I’m allowed to video what I do and don’t want to push my limits. I was thinking of just getting a tripod and camera that I keep setup just for some different angles. Maybe I’ll try it
@@minute_of_dangle When I had my 34 Plymouth body and fenders dipped back in about '82, they dipped it into a phosphate tank to keep from "flash rust" after the final water wash dried completely. Not sure if that is still done anymore. Company shut down in about '87 and no one does it anymore in this area.
Are there ever concerns of trapped air not allowing the bath to contact all of the surfaces? Inside the car, roof top, for example. Or perhaps inside some of the frame? Just curious. This is a very cool process and one I hope to have done some day for my car. What a great starting point for a rebuild.
I think I remember hearing a small hole is drilled in the roof before dipping I don't know if that has to do with anything you're talking about. But maybe my infos bad
I’ve never really thought about it before. Now that you mention it though I’d say like 75% are red lol. I know black is the hardest paint for me to remove. Silver is the easiest
Those brass welded spots are factory and were done by Ford to hold the panels in place when the car was being built in 1967. Those quarter panels on that car were never replaced and every vintage Mustang has a little brazing like that especially around the tail light panel area.
In my opinion this is the only way to begin a serious restoration. The result is a piece that is rust free and all its sins and faults are exposed so they can be addressed correctly.
I agree! Most of our customers get their cars Ecoated after this and that just ensures they last forever
@@minute_of_dangle So, I was wondering what your customer do to prevent oxidation immediately after this process? Not familiar with ECoating.... But, seems you would not have a lot of time to protect it. Thanks in advance for your response.
@@sea_turtle_adventures the last dip Inhibits rust even after the rinse. It takes days for it to flash up. But we dip the car in a rust inhibitor after everything’s said and done. It lasts up to 30 days
@@minute_of_dangle Thank you! Much appreciated. Fascinating to watch the process.
Having done restoration work for decades, there’s one constant, lots of sins
I watch these every morning. That takes care of most of my OCD for the day :)
Great to see some underside shots of the chassis. Keep 'em coming, these are more fun than you can imagine!!! Sub from Michigan where we KNOW rust!!
I got a shorter pressure washer wand just to get better videos of the undercarriage. I’m glad you enjoyed it! I appreciate the sub!
Сколько на это? Ржавое корыто было потрачено воды ролик дерьмо. Могли бы и не показывать 😢😢
Que metió. Ácido. Para. Sacar. La vpintura
I've been considering different options on my 1929 model A tudor and started to watch your videos to learn, needless to say I'm definitely going this route, yes it's more expensive initially but in the long run I'm sure I will make that back in savings on time and going over hidden repairs, now just to find someone in South Australia lol
shame ford does not do this method for rust proofing their vehicles would make them much more robust
Diy mate
Have you checked Snowtown?
Lol that roger rabbit figurine had me laughing.😂
That was so cool !!! Thanks for sharing these videos. Loved the walk around to see the customer has to work with afterwards. 😉
No worries, dont worry about us... the faithful will be here. Shes got a lot that needs to be fixed, but there is LOTS of potential. Thank you for another awesome video, keep up the amazing work.🙏💜
❤❤❤ thank you that means a lot
I like the work you been doing so far . Thank you for sharing your experience and work on projects and paint stripping projects. :)😊
Your posts are very relaxing.
I don’t imagine this process is cheap, but the results are worth every cent IM CERTAIN!!!
The brazing on the panel joints is original. Cheap repairs were done 30+ years ago, when these cars where nothing else than cheap beaters. The crazy price increases that warrant extensive & expensive repairs is a relatively recent phenomenon.
Cutting Corners to save a Penny, was, and still is a Cornerstone of every Businessman ever born
Great job guys, it better to start from scratch 👏, I like perfection 😊 it's gotta look better than manufactured.
It's an investment to someone or it been in the family from first purchased, I love the older cars 🚗.
50,s 60,s and 70,s models from performance to the 2 tone family car has something good to talk about.
My neighbors 1977 Leyland mini clubman is just on the verge of completion 🎉 and it looks eye popping.😮.
❤from New Zealand supporters.
We need more long-form content like this!
Very beautiful work you did on this mustang you cleaned it very professional
I liked when you showed the underside of the car being cleaned off, I believe it's a first time 👍.
Glad you liked it! I’ll keep doing it if that’s what people like to see!
Good work ❤looking forward to more video
Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it
How do you dry out all the enclosed cavities? I know it is dipped in rust inhibitor but I am guessing that can't protect forever against trapped or pooled water in cavities? Or does the coating it gets later on displace any trapped water?
Great way to start a full restoration with a clean pallette. I worked in local full service shop and I ran the radiator shop when I was there along with regular repair work. We had a hot tank where I soaked the radiator for an hour or so it removed all the paint and all of the corrosion the solder work was much easier this way. Dirty work but satisfying
Great job. If it is possible, I would like you to show the state after the restoration of the base treatment here.
I’ve never seen this done before really cool thanks for posting this
Thanks for watching. I’m glad you enjoyed it
Very nice video. Very informative. Appreciate your time doing these.
I appreciate you taking the time to watch it. Thank you!
Wow, that's a solid body.. 💰💰💰💰💰
I haven't heard of dipping cars for a long time up in Canada because the process was basically dumped due to environmentalists (as usual), lack of volume and cost. I can remember there were very few shops back in the day locally, and guys used US operators. My question would be, have they solved the issues we had in the past regarding acid remaining in the pinch welds because the neutralizing process wasn't good enough to penetrate and do its' job back then? We had a lot of problems with acid trapped in the seams that would bleed out during and after the restoration and cause all kinds of headaches.
How does the rust not come back through the finished paint on the seams.
you did a fine job on that mustang getting all that old layers of body work off. It looked to me to have been early 1980's spot welding/tig/mig work.
Thanks for sharing and being a good host. It seems a distant time ago I had heard of using this process of restoration as a recourse for certain situations. But as I had understood that information, it was not done every time but in certain circumstances. I have never seen anyone do this course of treatment before. I find it fascinating. How long have you been doing this.Someone earlier in the comments said every restoration should begin like this. Is that true? FYI I have never and will never restore anything in life but in the workshop of my mind. Any info would be appreciated. Once again thank you.
Amazing work and super! For some reason it reminded me of the breaking bad movie :D lol
Another great video ... Always look forward to seeing them 😊 see you on the next 👍👍
Thank you! I really appreciate that. Ill keep them coming! See you at the next one!
Thank you for the videos it's fun to watch
I've been driving my 67 fb for 38 years daily. It doesn't matter, just fix it better and save it. Looks good.
All of the dipping and chemistry makes sence and produces an excellent outcome. My question is how do you prevent any flash rusting from your shop to the owner?
spray it with PAM
Amazing work, amazing results!
New sub and eager to see more of your
First Rate Work!!
Take care, be safe.
RL Buffalo, NY
How do you keep the steel from flash rusting? Any time I've ever cleaned metal that bare it rusts within minutes of being cleaned up, especially if pressure washed clean.
Hi MoD. If I can give an advice on high pressure washer: avoid Karcher. there are now pure shiet, even on their professional "grey line" (I don't even talk about the plastic yellow crap you can find at homedepot etc etc). If you want something that last, I highly suggest Kränzle, another German brand, but being in a serious other level in terms of quality.
A good Italian pump makes for a great unit
Body's in fantastic shape for a car that old! Unicorn.
I like how you have roger rabbit and joker figures, curious what type of acid is it dipped in?
The thought of dealing with huge tanks of acid etc sounds scary.
But I cant argue with the results, looks great.
It’s generally alkaline. Destroys paint, does eat at the metal like acid would.
@@wayne9518the Alkaline just neutralizes the acid so it doesn't continue to eat away at the metal. The main strip is definitely achieved with a real acid bath.
No that acid or alkaline is very weak solution. That's why the cars stay submerged for 2-3 days.
Pepsi or some hand soaps are more acidic/alkaline than the solutions in that tank.
It's not how strong, it's how long it stays in the tanks.
@@electrolytics less than Pepsi? Really?
@@tehsimo Yes...or around the same. That's why it takes 2-3 days per dip in the tanks. And it takes 2-3 dips plus vigorous power washing 2x.
This content provider already said it was Food Grade chemicals in the tanks in another video's comment section.
That mustang is like grandpa's axe! Lol.
I was going to say how good it was, until you did the close-ups! 😂
Hahahah from afar it does look amazing.
So, what would be the result if a person was in the car for two days during the alkaline dip? Asking for a friend
It's only in the ankaline dip for 5 to 10 mins
Question- after the final acid bath and rinse off, how is the body treated to prevent rust where there is no access to spray primer on it? The factory dips the bodies in primer. What do folks do in this situation where they have the body dipped in acid?
Enjoy your content!
We dip it in a rust inhibitor then 75% of our customers have the whole body primer dipped or Ecoated after the process. Graber enterprises in elkhart Indiana has Ecoated some cars after we dipped them. They said our cars are the cleanest he’s ever seen. The owners names Doug and he told me to give his number out if anyone had any questions about ecoating after dipping. Give him a call (574) 202-4636
Where are you located? I have a project coming up and the last place around my are the use to do this shut down a while back.
I wish your shop was near me.. I've got a really rough '74 camaro that I'd love to dip so I can do it right
Truly an amazing video. I learned a lot. You are a master of the trade.
Thank you! That really means a lot. I appreciate you watching
I had a two-year old ‘67 Mustang in high school (yeh, I’m old), and the car had rust within a year. Florida car, not a northern car. Shiny paint and rust bubbles at all chrome attachment points.
How do you or are you able to coat the metals of interior channels after this?
The brazing on your car was probably done at Ford as this was how they did it in the day. The best way you can tell if a panel has been replaced is if the factory spot welds are still intact. Most shops do not have the ability to do this.
The acid bath means business. What % is the acid bath? Don’t feel like you have to apologize for not getting vids out. Life happens. Really enjoy
Welcome back
How do you clean the inner cowl? And how can you get paint in there?
So the quarter panels were replaced, and then those rusted through and were patched?
I wonder what cost us to body swap a 1972 Tbird. I am good mechanically but a big forklift, for example, needed in lieu of hoists.
Of all the American brands which do you find typically has more rust and rot?
Is there a certain “work time” you have after it comes out of the bath to pressure wash all of the paint off? For example, if you don’t get the paint off within 2 hrs it has to go back in the bath?
I don't know why but I'm always amazed that most of the cars you dip are straight up Bondo Bandits.
Question ? do you also have a tank for dipping it in some kind of anti rusting chemicals like Zink chromate or other rust proofing coatings. Better to do it now if possible.
Looks 👍 good, can you dip chrome bumpers??
We can but it won’t remove the chrome.
Ok thank you 👍
Incredible video! learned plenty so cool
Thank you! I’m glad to hear that
Did they put a new front clip on that thing and THEN decide to have it stripped?
How do you keep the EPA of your back?
That had to have been another DuPont IMRON POLYURETHANE ENAMEL paint job on that thing...
Very cool process to watch! Where are you located?
A lot of chemistry, big problems to recycle them. Take the price of this scrap vehicle and opposite acid bath, derusting, welding, colors and working and so on. Is it worthwhile?
Back to a clean blank canvas to wrk with brilliant way to do it
very nice job guys! respect!
What kind of reclamation or filtration system is on your drains?
Good work 👏🏻
Great and informative video. In general can you give us an aproximate cost for a car like this? Thank you!!
I don’t know if you have time to read your comments but if so could you tell me approximately how much this cost? I know why the rot hole in the front right is there because that’s just below where the battery goes. This car is 98% better than most when you get a 60’s car down to bare metal. If you happen to know if anyone does this process in the Carolina’s I would appreciate it. I live in Charleston, South Carolina
Thanks for the information. I don’t know of anyone who does this around there I’m sorry. It’s a flat rate of 3100
It just doesn't feel right without a hand giving the thumbs up.
What were those strange patches up on the top of the engine compartment rails?
I wondered that too possibly the original partial vins were cut out in the past to hide the cars true identity.
@@inspectadrift8478 I was kind of hoping even the owner or other expert would know the real story. I think there is only one id, on the left side area. (my 67 gta fairlane is up on the front cowl area). I wonder if something was grafted on to that car after major front damage especially with both sides being modified and with the seemingly unmatching bad rust on the front of the rails. The rest of the car looks pretty good. Nowadays they have better ways to straighten frames etc, but back then we didn't think much about grafting on parts. Those cars had no crush engineering like today's cars anyway. I have a friend with a 66 hertz shelby and it is actually his old 65 fastback shell with all of the shelby transferred over as it had major front damage. It has that as part of it's story and taking another unibody to fix it is just what any body shop would do if it was a mess. I don't even know if you could buy a unibody from ford if you wanted one.
Never seen a Mustang with floors before!
Or relatively intact cowl.
@@ricoludovici2825 This era Mustang, like the Falcons they were based on, were not dipped in primer. The cowl metal was galvanized and then welded together. There was no way for the painters to reach into the cowl so the inside of the cowl had just the galvanizing to protect the metal. Eventually dirt, leaves, road salt got into the cowl, the galvanizing would be depleted, and the tin worm would take over. Keep in mind these cars were built to sell cheap. The designers and engineers assumed most cars would be junked from 5-10 years they hit the road. I'm sure the people who designed and built these cars would have said you were crazy if you told them people would still be fascinated with them 60 years after they first went on sale.
What chemicals are you using for neutralizing and striping.
Could you say what chemical is used in this tank? Is it heated?. Thanks
What keeps it from flash rusting after you rinse?
I love your videos. You uncover all of the past metalworking sins by prior owners. As the saying goes: good work not cheap, cheap work not good.
Классный форд 👍
About on average how much does a process like this cost i find what you do very interesting
Wow, a Fastback! If I win the lottery I would definitely choose between a full restoration of a Fastback or order a new reproduction from Revology.
I love a nice fastback. This is my favorite style of mustang.
Why don’t you use a tripod? Also, what are the colored zip ties for/mean? Love the work!
People have grown accustomed to the POV type of videoing. It’s also a lot quicker. I’m on the clock so I can’t really take a lot of time to set equipment up. I’m very fortunate that I’m allowed to video what I do and don’t want to push my limits. I was thinking of just getting a tripod and camera that I keep setup just for some different angles. Maybe I’ll try it
Beautiful car😍😍😍
Do you dip the car in rust prohibitor primer so it can get in all the spots no paint gun is going to reach.
We dip it in a water based rust inhibitor. Most customers get them primer dipped or ecoated afterwards
@@minute_of_dangle When I had my 34 Plymouth body and fenders dipped back in about '82, they dipped it into a phosphate tank to keep from "flash rust" after the final water wash dried completely. Not sure if that is still done anymore. Company shut down in about '87 and no one does it anymore in this area.
what does a process like this cost to get done ?
Great video ..
Look I got a welder at Wal-Mart 😃 I'm a pro now 🙃
What is the price for something like this? I have a 67 mustang i want done.
Are there ever concerns of trapped air not allowing the bath to contact all of the surfaces? Inside the car, roof top, for example. Or perhaps inside some of the frame? Just curious. This is a very cool process and one I hope to have done some day for my car. What a great starting point for a rebuild.
Maybe that’s why the car is put in in an angle
@@PinkPanther1402 Good point. I'd imagine most of the air could escape in that way.
I think I remember hearing a small hole is drilled in the roof before dipping I don't know if that has to do with anything you're talking about. But maybe my infos bad
What do you do next to prevent rust? Is the car sent off to get primered?
The last dip inhibits rust even after rinsing and then to be safe we did it in a temporary rust inhibitor. Lasts up to 30days.
great work pal
Thank you!
When you neutralise the dip what does that do?
body man went ape **** with the Bondo 👀👀😁
ok good job well done i got a 69 ford xw fairmomt have u got a vid that give us a run down on the baths what they got in them %%%%% of suff 50 % 90%
What the heck did they cut the lower rear quarters behind the wheel arch with? A claw hammer? Sheesh!
Great video, I definitely think the chemical dipping is the way to go if possible. .
Thank you I’m glad you enjoyed it
What is the approximate cost for a 69 Chevelle? And when you are done do you spray with a rust retardant?
Оч крутая задумка , респект !🤙👍
What are the main colour of the cars that you do I see a lot of red
I’ve never really thought about it before. Now that you mention it though I’d say like 75% are red lol. I know black is the hardest paint for me to remove. Silver is the easiest
How do you stop flash rusting??
Pretty cool!