3:46 I have the same model bandsaw and had the exact same problem of the pulley shifting on me. I ended up having to take apart the entire lower wheel assembly and replacing all the bearings and those c-clips that hold everything in place. Once I did that and made sure everything was lined up correctly, it's worked perfectly ever since.
Dude, I have had my craftsman saw for about 30 years and have fought this and once gave up on it completely. Love the video. Going to get me a new blade for sure. Thanks
Just bought a 12" Craftsman Tilt Head similar to yours the only difference is that mine has the "Electronic Measuring" system, (model 113.247410). It ran ok with the exception of the "knock" that you described, the tilt mechanism was jammed and the electronic display didn't work. I jumped on the internet right away and found a manual to print and your video. Both were invaluable. Tackled the tilt mechanism first, it was packed with 27 years of saw dust. A few hours of cleaning and the tilt works as it should. Next on the "to do" list was the knock. As you described the large drive pulley, not the one on the motor, had come loose. After finding the elusive set screw I was able to adjust the drive belt / pulley tracking and tighten it up. FYI the position you have your belt in will give you 3000 ft/min the other position will give you 1500 ft/min. The last "repair" item was the electronic read out. Turned out to be a dead battery. Battery replaced and all is well . It reads out Blade Tilt Angle, Blade Tension and Blade Speed in Ft/Min. Pretty neat actually, now that it works. I took the time to read the manual several times to pick up the fine points of the saw and check all the adjustments including the blade guides. The saw runs like a champ thanks to your video help . Now I just have to get some chickens !
Thanks for the heads up. I have the Sears Craftsman tilt head 12 inch model 113.248321 and right now there is a guy with several belts on E-bay I guess I had better buy one. The saw has a vibration or a bump (thump) sound when it is running and I have not found out why so far. I plan to take the blade off and see it the sound in in the motor belt or the blade &wheels. Again thanks much for the help. Carl
Cool video. I have the electronic model. Needs a new drivebelt. Any idea how to change it? It's not like other bandsaw. Looks like I have to remove the motor. Ant help would be greatly appreciated. Ty
I just rescued this same saw from a metal scrapyard where they sold it to me for 15 cents a pound. Took it home, cleaned it up, lubed the motor, set the guides, and got it running. I did however, discover why someone decided it was scrap, it made that exact same sound that yours does at 4:43ish when you spin the bottom wheel. Like yours, the keys for the drive shaft had vibrated loose over time, and the drive shaft had slowly walked backwards, putting the wheels AND the pulleys out of alignment. At first, I didn't notice how close the front wheel was to the frame, and just fixed the back pulley by pressing it further onto the shaft to align it with the motor pulley. Started her up, ran great for a while, then started, very slowly, to tick tick tick that developed quickly into the sound yours makes when you spin that wheel. My point is, if yours is doing the same mine did, you need to go back to the pulley side of the shaft, pull the driveshaft key, and *somehow* slide that whole driveshaft forward to where the bottom wheel is in general better alignment with the top one, and there is enough clearance that the wheel isn't hitting the aluminum supports. (mine, if i remember, started hitting the support on the left bottom side. *somehow* slide that driveshaft forward was a hell of an operation. it did NOT want to move, and I couldn't get the key out to pull the bottom wheel. There's no room to hit it from the backside with a hammer, there's nothing strong enough to really use to brace against to try to "press" it forward... The only thing that worked for me, and bruised the hell out of my forearms btw, was to put a tablesaw blade-wrench big enough to slide over the driveshaft just behind the front wheel, and then use a crescent wrench to pry forward. Took several hours to figure that out, and even then, it was a nightmare. Still, it worked, and I was able to get the driveshaft slid forward enough to be in alignment again, not hit the frame. Saw runs ok now, I need to balance the wheels, and put new tires and a belt on it if I'm going to make it my primary. th-cam.com/video/peVq5rTbmDc/w-d-xo.html
I have a craftsman 12 inch bandsaw. Per the manual, to square the blade, I need to adjust with a set scew. However, it does not matter how much I turn this scew I cannot get the blade square with the table, any suggestions?
after mine started to make that loud thumping noise...i was trying to figure what was up.....i noticed my belt was trying to walk back towards the motor and comeing off the pulley.....wished id found this vid befor i started the tear down....will check that allen screw on pulley......thanks...
I just bought one from a guy on craigslist. Works great so far but the tilt head pinion drive gear has half the teeth missing and cant find a replacement.
Well I got the pulley running ok now.. I Have another question. I found a fence that secures good at the front but being that at the back of the table there is nothingto secure the fence to.. no lip or anything.. any suggestions?? can I bolt on a small angle iron or???
If you fellers are having trouble with your pulleys coming loose get yourself a small tube of "blue" "Loctite" clean all mating surfaces, line up parts as usual shake up Loctite tube a little and apply a drop of Loctite to your key way and set lock screw. Let sit for a while, I like over night. It won't come apart again until you take it apart. Use the "blue" Loctite so you can take it apart again. If you use the "red" it will be much harder to disassemble if you ever need to.
Old Guy The top cover comes off the band saw so you can get access to the top belt pulley. The front half of the saw bed comes up and off, so you can access the lower pulley. Once you have the top of the saw bed off you take the belt off by loosing the tension on the belt and pulling the belt toward you through the slit in the saw bed.
If you still check your channel, I've had this same saw for about 30 years, and have replaced that large pulley once before... Having the same belt tracking issue as you now, and I can't for the life of me get the hex wrench through that access point. Any tips on that specific step?
@@TurningRound Thanks - definitely have to use the long end of the hex wrench, but I just can't see or feel far enough in there to line up the nut on the pully with the access tab/wrench. Shining a phone light in there, I *think* what's going on is that my pully has actually dropped a bit onto the shaft, making its nut drop below the face of the surrounding plate. At this point I'm trying to borrow one of those clamp-under flywheel puller tools to see if I can lift the pulley on the shaft a bit and try again with the wrench. Thanks for the reply!
I bought the same saw last year. It needs a blade & tires. My problem is it ran fine the first few times I tested it but now it won't even come on. What happened? I've scratched my head raw
Maybe you’re missing that yellow safety lock? Because that’s what happened to me. But I’m its new owner and didn’t know there supposed to be a yellow piece there. I’m talking about this piece you can search on Amazon, it’s called “Sears Craftsman Switch Safety Key Radial Arm Saw Jointer Band Drill Press-yellow square” But it’s unlikely is your problem, since you have used the saw before. But I’ll just throw it out there 😬
I just purchased the same kind of saw. It cuts nice.. I have a problem with it though.. The bottom pulley keeps sliding in on the shaft and the 1/2" blad is about half way off.. I bring the pulley out flush with the end of the shaft and if it runs a bit it slides in again. I brought it out again and put a second set screw on top of the first one to make a lock but it slid in again. .what can I do to get the set screw to hold the pulley in the position that i need? does the keyway need to be changed? the pulley need to be changed? or put a spacer or washers behind the pulley?
Thank you I have it now. The set screw had came out part of the way and the belt came off.It is a two speed and I set t on the low speed. I have had the saw in the shop for years and not used it and when I did the belt came off. I had no paperwork for it and didn't know what to do, again thanks. Carl.
Don't loose the belt or break it. I broke mine and had a really hard time getting a replacement. I think it is specific to that saw. Couldn't find any other belt that would work. Sears finally came through, but took forever.
Gacracker Dave Can you give me the model number of the saw? I have the same saw and need a new thrust bearing top and bottom. Sears parts is helpless without model number.
Turning Round Thanks. Checked and the thrust bearing is is no longer available at Sears parts. Any suggestion as to where I can buy them? I bought two generic sealed bearings and on my engine lathe will make a post to mount them, but I doubt they will work as well as the original designed bearing.
I have the 1 HP model that I just bought used. I need to change the blade to a thicker one. Do you have a video or know one for this model on how to change it?? This is my 1st bandsaw so not really sure how to. Thank you
+Vicky Ashcraft First unplug the saw, second take the front cover off, take the table cover off. Loosen the top big black wheel handle on the very top of the saw that will lower the top pulley and allow for play to get the blade back on. put the blade on the top and bottom pulley and rotate them a big to get it lined up. Then gently tighten the top pulley back up after you have put the blade on.
I'm glad to see that you have a bit of vibration from the head of your saw. Mine does too, so now I won't worry so much. I love the big table, the fact that it has a fence, and that it has so much power. Thanks for your video.
I have the same saw and having some problems. It seems like its out of balance. Have you had any problems with that? I get a lot of vibration at start up and shut down.
Old Guy This saw is fairly simple, when you think about it. You have two big wheels and they are held on to the ball bearing shafts with set screws. I have had a wheel set screw and a pulley set screw come loose. The motor is mounted underneath with a belt attached to one of two pulleys. If the bearings are good, and set screws are tight and the wheels, pulleys and belts are lined up, this saw should work well.
Old Guy Can you send me a link to that owners manual and hopefully give me the model number of the saw? I have the same saw and need a new thrust bearing top and bottom. Sears parts is helpless without model number.
+Robert E You can download the manual from the Sears Parts website, just enter in your saw model number and there should be a link to the manual to download for free.
I have the same saw and just bought an 80" timber wolf band from woodcraft, which is supposed to run loose, but that bugger is tight as a drum. I have loosened the adjustments as far as they will go and I can barely get the motor to spin while it's on. Just curious is you had a similar issue. Thinking of going to an 82" band.
Hoping you can help me. I just got this band saw from my dad's garage. I was wondering.... The one I have have is the exact same model. Unfortuantely, my dad passed away so I can't ask him but I see the cover says it has a 1/2 inch sanding belt. I can't figure that out. Where is it? Also. I need to get a new blade but today, after cutting a few things I started to have a problem. THe blade would move but when I put in a piece of wood to cut, the blade would stop. Is it a tension issue? Any suggestions> Thanks very much
I know this is an old message but sears used to sell sanding belts that you used instead of the blade. I have a box of them but they havent been sold in years.
I need a drive belt for my12 in. Craftsman model 351.224000. Where can I find one I could not believe how small this belt is and looks like the interior of the belt is made with sewing thread with small gear teeth molded into it.
I have this same saw. I tune mine in the bottom at the allen heads that are there for three items. The two side guides and the one bearing in the back.
Plug it in the wall and you need to have the yellow square safety thing 🟨 that you plug where it says “on/off” switch. Otherwise it will not work. You can also just use flat head screwdriver 🪛 to poke that hole and turn it on at the same time.
The height between the table and the saw housing is 6 inches. Right next to the blade you could cut up to 7 inched but it could only be 1 inch wide or less. At 6 inches I think this saw would struggle. Thanks for watching.
Betcha a dollar the keyway between the motor and the aluminum pulley is missing - that is what happened to mine - ran fine til I inserted wood - then the blade almost stopped.
up date.....my band saw had the same problem...easy fix...wished i,d seen this vid befor i bought new bearings....o well, got bearings for when i need them...
Excellent video and educational comments too! Keep up the good work! I have an older 12" Craftsman and am wondering what the widest blade stock I can use for hardwoods. I have no manual. Thanks in advance for any help.
I've had that same saw for twenty years or so. Works pretty good, but it is the biggest pain in the butt to work on. Terrible design. Who ever designed that thing must have either never intended to use the saw, or had a really sick sense of humor. I have cussed at it many a times.
There’s always a first time user. There’s nothing wrong with asking questions. I’m sure you struggled too when you first start using electric saw/anything in this world. Nobody know everything. So be kind.
3:46 I have the same model bandsaw and had the exact same problem of the pulley shifting on me. I ended up having to take apart the entire lower wheel assembly and replacing all the bearings and those c-clips that hold everything in place. Once I did that and made sure everything was lined up correctly, it's worked perfectly ever since.
Dude, I have had my craftsman saw for about 30 years and have fought this and once gave up on it completely. Love the video. Going to get me a new blade for sure. Thanks
Just bought a 12" Craftsman Tilt Head similar to yours the only difference is that mine has the "Electronic Measuring" system, (model 113.247410). It ran ok with the exception of the "knock" that you described, the tilt mechanism was jammed and the electronic display didn't work.
I jumped on the internet right away and found a manual to print and your video. Both were invaluable.
Tackled the tilt mechanism first, it was packed with 27 years of saw dust. A few hours of cleaning and the tilt works as it should. Next on the "to do" list was the knock. As you described the large drive pulley, not the one on the motor, had come loose. After finding the elusive set screw I was able to adjust the drive belt / pulley tracking and tighten it up. FYI the position you have your belt in will give you 3000 ft/min the other position will give you 1500 ft/min.
The last "repair" item was the electronic read out. Turned out to be a dead battery. Battery replaced and all is well . It reads out Blade Tilt Angle, Blade Tension and Blade Speed in Ft/Min. Pretty neat actually, now that it works.
I took the time to read the manual several times to pick up the fine points of the saw and check all the adjustments including the blade guides.
The saw runs like a champ thanks to your video help . Now I just have to get some chickens !
Do you think it will resaw 1.5 inch by 6 inch by 8ft down to 3/4 to by 6 inch by 8 ft
????? Might get one from market place if it will work for that
Thanks for the heads up. I have the Sears Craftsman tilt head 12 inch model 113.248321 and right now there is a guy with several belts on E-bay I guess I had better buy one. The saw has a vibration or a bump (thump) sound when it is running and I have not found out why so far.
I plan to take the blade off and see it the sound in in the motor belt or the blade &wheels.
Again thanks much for the help.
Carl
Cool video. I have the electronic model. Needs a new drivebelt. Any idea how to change it? It's not like other bandsaw. Looks like I have to remove the motor. Ant help would be greatly appreciated. Ty
I have searched everything for what is making my craftsman bandsaw bang. Thankyou
I just rescued this same saw from a metal scrapyard where they sold it to me for 15 cents a pound. Took it home, cleaned it up, lubed the motor, set the guides, and got it running.
I did however, discover why someone decided it was scrap, it made that exact same sound that yours does at 4:43ish when you spin the bottom wheel. Like yours, the keys for the drive shaft had vibrated loose over time, and the drive shaft had slowly walked backwards, putting the wheels AND the pulleys out of alignment. At first, I didn't notice how close the front wheel was to the frame, and just fixed the back pulley by pressing it further onto the shaft to align it with the motor pulley. Started her up, ran great for a while, then started, very slowly, to tick tick tick that developed quickly into the sound yours makes when you spin that wheel.
My point is, if yours is doing the same mine did, you need to go back to the pulley side of the shaft, pull the driveshaft key, and *somehow* slide that whole driveshaft forward to where the bottom wheel is in general better alignment with the top one, and there is enough clearance that the wheel isn't hitting the aluminum supports. (mine, if i remember, started hitting the support on the left bottom side.
*somehow* slide that driveshaft forward was a hell of an operation. it did NOT want to move, and I couldn't get the key out to pull the bottom wheel. There's no room to hit it from the backside with a hammer, there's nothing strong enough to really use to brace against to try to "press" it forward... The only thing that worked for me, and bruised the hell out of my forearms btw, was to put a tablesaw blade-wrench big enough to slide over the driveshaft just behind the front wheel, and then use a crescent wrench to pry forward. Took several hours to figure that out, and even then, it was a nightmare. Still, it worked, and I was able to get the driveshaft slid forward enough to be in alignment again, not hit the frame.
Saw runs ok now, I need to balance the wheels, and put new tires and a belt on it if I'm going to make it my primary.
th-cam.com/video/peVq5rTbmDc/w-d-xo.html
This is the exact same band saw I have. The motor stopped working and I cannot find one anywhere to order.
I have a craftsman 12 inch bandsaw. Per the manual, to square the blade, I need to adjust with a set scew. However, it does not matter how much I turn this scew I cannot get the blade square with the table, any suggestions?
after mine started to make that loud thumping noise...i was trying to figure what was up.....i noticed my belt was trying to walk back towards the motor and comeing off the pulley.....wished id found this vid befor i started the tear down....will check that allen screw on pulley......thanks...
Do you have a part number for this blade? I'm struggling to find one for the one my grandfather left me.
one speed is for wood, the other for metal?
I just bought one from a guy on craigslist. Works great so far but the tilt head pinion drive gear has half the teeth missing and cant find a replacement.
HOW DO YOU CHANGE THE BLADE??
Well I got the pulley running ok now.. I Have another question. I found a fence that secures good at the front but being that at the back of the table there is nothingto secure the fence to.. no lip or anything.. any suggestions?? can I bolt on a small angle iron or???
That sounds like a pretty good idea, go for it.
@@RedJeepClub guess i'll give it a try
If you fellers are having trouble with your pulleys coming loose get yourself a small tube of "blue" "Loctite" clean all mating surfaces, line up parts as usual shake up Loctite tube a little and apply a drop of Loctite to your key way and set lock screw. Let sit for a while, I like over night. It won't come apart again until you take it apart. Use the "blue" Loctite so you can take it apart again. If you use the "red" it will be much harder to disassemble if you ever need to.
Hi My saw has a plastic cover on the bottom over the belt. could you tell me how do I change the belt Or how to take the cover off!
Thanks
Old Guy The top cover comes off the band saw so you can get access to the top belt pulley. The front half of the saw bed comes up and off, so you can access the lower pulley. Once you have the top of the saw bed off you take the belt off by loosing the tension on the belt and pulling the belt toward you through the slit in the saw bed.
If you still check your channel, I've had this same saw for about 30 years, and have replaced that large pulley once before... Having the same belt tracking issue as you now, and I can't for the life of me get the hex wrench through that access point. Any tips on that specific step?
I can't remember how I gained access to this, maybe I had to use the long end of the wrench to get to it. Let me know when you figure it out. Thanks.
@@TurningRound Thanks - definitely have to use the long end of the hex wrench, but I just can't see or feel far enough in there to line up the nut on the pully with the access tab/wrench. Shining a phone light in there, I *think* what's going on is that my pully has actually dropped a bit onto the shaft, making its nut drop below the face of the surrounding plate. At this point I'm trying to borrow one of those clamp-under flywheel puller tools to see if I can lift the pulley on the shaft a bit and try again with the wrench. Thanks for the reply!
I bought the same saw last year. It needs a blade & tires. My problem is it ran fine the first few times I tested it but now it won't even come on. What happened? I've scratched my head raw
Maybe you’re missing that yellow safety lock? Because that’s what happened to me. But I’m its new owner and didn’t know there supposed to be a yellow piece there. I’m talking about this piece you can search on Amazon, it’s called “Sears Craftsman Switch Safety Key Radial Arm Saw Jointer Band Drill Press-yellow square”
But it’s unlikely is your problem, since you have used the saw before. But I’ll just throw it out there 😬
I just purchased the same kind of saw. It cuts nice.. I have a problem with it though.. The bottom pulley keeps sliding in on the shaft and the 1/2" blad is about half way off.. I bring the pulley out flush with the end of the shaft and if it runs a bit it slides in again. I brought it out again and put a second set screw on top of the first one to make a lock but it slid in again. .what can I do to get the set screw to hold the pulley in the position that i need? does the keyway need to be changed? the pulley need to be changed? or put a spacer or washers behind the pulley?
I would try using some spacers so it stays in line. Just make sure they don't rub on the motor housing.
@@TurningRound great thanks for your reply... its the bottom pulley that the blade runs on that keeps sliding in toward the bearing
Thank you I have it now. The set screw had came out part of the way and the belt came off.It is a two speed and I set t on the low speed. I have had the saw in the shop for years and not used it and when I did the belt came off. I had no paperwork for it and didn't know what to do, again thanks. Carl.
Don't loose the belt or break it. I broke mine and had a really hard time getting a replacement. I think it is specific to that saw. Couldn't find any other belt that would work. Sears finally came through, but took forever.
Gacracker Dave Can you give me the model number of the saw? I have the same saw and need a new thrust bearing top and bottom. Sears parts is helpless without model number.
Robert E This is on the number on the left side of the saw.
Model 113.248320 Serial 93244P0725
I hope this helps.
Turning Round Thanks. Checked and the thrust bearing is is no longer available at Sears parts. Any suggestion as to where I can buy them? I bought two generic sealed bearings and on my engine lathe will make a post to mount them, but I doubt they will work as well as the original designed bearing.
Old Guy I have a craftsman from i think 1941. Google make and model number, i downloaded owners manual, parts list, and exploded view of machine. Free
Awesome video. Does anyone know who actually manufactured this Craftsman band saw? I am in need of that dual step drive pulley driven by motor. Help!!
Emerson electric I believe.
I have the 1 HP model that I just bought used. I need to change the blade to a thicker one. Do you have a video or know one for this model on how to change it?? This is my 1st bandsaw so not really sure how to. Thank you
I have the same saw with the same problems any way you can tell me were u got them pulleys for your band saw??
how does a truss screw in my 12 inch craftsman band saw work?
My blade has come off the pulley. From your video I got the cover off but can't figure out how to get the blade back on.....help. Thanks.
+Vicky Ashcraft First unplug the saw, second take the front cover off, take the table cover off. Loosen the top big black wheel handle on the very top of the saw that will lower the top pulley and allow for play to get the blade back on. put the blade on the top and bottom pulley and rotate them a big to get it lined up. Then gently tighten the top pulley back up after you have put the blade on.
+Turning Round Success ~ Thank you very much I didn't even know what that top wheel was for. My saw works again, thanks to you!!
I'm glad to see that you have a bit of vibration from the head of your saw. Mine does too, so now I won't worry so much. I love the big table, the fact that it has a fence, and that it has so much power. Thanks for your video.
I have the same saw and having some problems. It seems like its out of balance. Have you had any problems with that? I get a lot of vibration at start up and shut down.
I just found the owners manual online and it said the vibration may be the drive belt too tight.
Old Guy
This saw is fairly simple, when you think about it. You have two big wheels and they are held on to the ball bearing shafts with set screws. I have had a wheel set screw and a pulley set screw come loose. The motor is mounted underneath with a belt attached to one of two pulleys. If the bearings are good, and set screws are tight and the wheels, pulleys and belts are lined up, this saw should work well.
Old Guy Can you send me a link to that owners manual and hopefully give me the model number of the saw? I have the same saw and need a new thrust bearing top and bottom. Sears parts is helpless without model number.
+Robert E You can download the manual from the Sears Parts website, just enter in your saw model number and there should be a link to the manual to download for free.
+Robert E
www.manualslib.com/manual/32793/Craftsman-113-248510.html
I have the same saw and just bought an 80" timber wolf band from woodcraft, which is supposed to run loose, but that bugger is tight as a drum. I have loosened the adjustments as far as they will go and I can barely get the motor to spin while it's on. Just curious is you had a similar issue. Thinking of going to an 82" band.
Leo Heppler i
Hoping you can help me. I just got this band saw from my dad's garage. I was wondering.... The one I have have is the exact same model. Unfortuantely, my dad passed away so I can't ask him but I see the cover says it has a 1/2 inch sanding belt. I can't figure that out. Where is it? Also. I need to get a new blade but today, after cutting a few things I started to have a problem. THe blade would move but when I put in a piece of wood to cut, the blade would stop. Is it a tension issue? Any suggestions> Thanks very much
I know this is an old message but sears used to sell sanding belts that you used instead of the blade. I have a box of them but they havent been sold in years.
You can still buy them online. 2sand dot com
I need a drive belt for my12 in. Craftsman model 351.224000. Where can I find one I could not believe how small this belt is and looks like the interior of the belt is made with sewing thread with small gear teeth molded into it.
how do you tune the lower guides on this machine. mine look impossible (hard) to get to unless I take it all apart.
thanks for the help in advance.
I have this same saw. I tune mine in the bottom at the allen heads that are there for three items. The two side guides and the one bearing in the back.
I have the same band saw, bought used. Did not come with manual. The model number I can not read. Can you tell me the model number of your machine
113.248210. May not be the exact number you have but it'll be damn close
Where did you get that table? I need a table like that for my vintage bandsaw like yours. Thanks
I have the same bandsaw, I was wondering if you know if they sell 6" riser blocks for it?
I don't know for sure, but my guess would be no. I think the case or casting is all one piece. Let me know if you findout otherwise. Thanks
I have an old bandsaw how do I turn it on
plug it in
Plug it in the wall and you need to have the yellow square safety thing 🟨 that you plug where it says “on/off” switch. Otherwise it will not work. You can also just use flat head screwdriver 🪛 to poke that hole and turn it on at the same time.
whats the tallest piece u can cut on this
The height between the table and the saw housing is 6 inches. Right next to the blade you could cut up to 7 inched but it could only be 1 inch wide or less. At 6 inches I think this saw would struggle. Thanks for watching.
I just got one for $60 on facebook. Bogs down upon inserting of wood. I guess main drive belt is next. Thanks for the video.
Betcha a dollar the keyway between the motor and the aluminum pulley is missing - that is what happened to mine - ran fine til I inserted wood - then the blade almost stopped.
@@paulrobinson9318 Nope...It was just a loose belt. I love this thing.
This is what I have going in with mine Paul. No key. Did you replace yours?
up date.....my band saw had the same problem...easy fix...wished i,d seen this vid befor i bought new bearings....o well, got bearings for when i need them...
That is great I am glad you got it fixed.
Excellent video and educational comments too! Keep up the good work! I have an older 12" Craftsman and am wondering what the widest blade stock I can use for hardwoods. I have no manual. Thanks in advance for any help.
I have not seen the original rip fence for this saw.
I did not have a rip fence for this saw. I got my welder out and built one. It works ok for my needs but is a simple. Thanks for watching.
What fence will work for this bandsaw?
A guide to a circular table saw that is of the same time. I have one and it should measure 27 "inches long.
I have a 12 inch model number 113 243 310 what size blade do I need??
I Have a craftsman 12" band saw model 114.24290 I can not find the age of it
I am guessing it is 20+ years old. It is a basic saw and I use it more that i thought I would for small jobs.
I've had that same saw for twenty years or so. Works pretty good, but it is the biggest pain in the butt to work on. Terrible design. Who ever designed that thing must have either never intended to use the saw, or had a really sick sense of humor. I have cussed at it many a times.
haaa I love chickens lol
from the comments down below I'd say that none of you guys need to be using any type of saw .
Ram Wall why don’t you show everyone how, bet I know how you vote.
There’s always a first time user. There’s nothing wrong with asking questions. I’m sure you struggled too when you first start using electric saw/anything in this world. Nobody know everything. So be kind.
douche