Super job, I tried replacing the bearing on my Canadian 1995 320i twice using the cups and the bearing failed in short order both times. This was the only way to make it last. Brake cable was really hard to get off. Made my dust cover get thru it. Thanks for a great video.
I love watching your videos because you do things correctly but also using common garage tools that most of us have at home. It makes the repairs very realistic. I think my M3 is going to have the whole rear subframe out next spring 😅.
Made it 15 min in before I decided to let a professional handle this. Thanks for the great video! Your channel has helped me a ton over the past two years of E36 ownership.
No way, this video is an absolute coincidence! My father and I are planning on getting our rear wheel bearings replaced as it's been a while and we can hear some sounds from them, so yeah, this will be a lot of help, cheers! Love all your videos as always Pamo.
I had no issue on mine droping sway bar then axles. After that removeing brakes and rotors, so can use a slide hammer to pull hub. If you can get ahold of a otc hub grappler, you dont need the slide hammer. I would rate the the through rod with cups that never fit equal to the balancing act of a press.
Also, hub flange can be removed with a slide hammer with arm on car. I bought a tool off ebay to then press the old bearing out and new one in (trying to find it for link but seems to be gone unfortunately). Effectively its just a large threaded bolt with correct washers/cups. But with these tools I've now done several wheel bearings at home on e36. Good video, keep it up
I hope I can use my slide hammer to pull the bearing as well, I've got a kit with a 5lb slide hammer to pull the hub and bearings, I have an internal puller as well if the bearing fails while pulling.
@@Not_Loading you have to use a decently sized slide hammer designed for wheel bearings. And they can take many shocks to release if never changed or bearing damaged.
@@fvresonanator the bearing was replaced quite recently actually, the axle failed and I think that led to an early death for the bearing. Probably less than a year or year and a half ago it was replaced, my concern now is whether or not I can put the hub back in without damaging the bearing, I know I can get it back into the trailing arm with my mini sledge and patience but the bit in the video about destroying the bearing while reinstalling the hub is making me think
@@Not_Loading once the bearing has been pressed into hub (by pressing the outer race only), the hub must be pressed in next. When doing this, you must place a washer on opposite side that seats against the inner race of bearing. Otherwise, yes you will damage bearing. You need to use the correct tools believe me, you'll spend hours trying different ways and make no progress. If you see in US, look at ECS tuning or Turner motorsport. They sell proper tools for jobs such as these
You are savage dude :) I have always replaced mine with the knuckle still attached to the car, but I am thinking of doing it your way. better to do most of the work on a bench than bending over at the side of the car for hours...
That 'mistake' happened to me too haha. Forgot to put the handbrake shoes on. Managed to do it still but not pleasant. try getting the splash shield on it with the hub installed LOL.
Good video. I'm surprised you didn't just drop the arm off complete and do the fiddly work on the bench. That's what I usually do. And also if the shaft won't come out of the hub you can remove the cups directly from the diff and then deal with the offender on the bench. Really good vid though man. Enjoyed it.
Good information there mate, wheel bearings can be a pain on e36s. Also we have started our own stroker build now after taking some inspiration from your videos. Doing a vlog of the progress on our channel, have a look and any advise would he appreciated.
Hi Pamo ,iv trailing arm off car,but handbrake cable still attached to trailing arm ,how do you take it out properly,I have loosened handbrake completely
They often cease into the hub so the easiest way is to completely disconnect it inside the car and pull the cable out with the arm. Once it's off the car you can then try to remove it from the hub.
Cheers, great video as always. Your videos have been a great help, thank you. Not long going to be doing this as part of my Evo rear end swap into my 328i. Probably a daft question because I couldn't see that you had but, did you have to take the other side of the drive shaft away from the diff?
Any tips or advice on getting the drive shafts out of the hub, mine are stuck on both sides. Trying but failing with mapp gas, freeze spray and the hammers keep getting bigger
Sam, I wish I could help, but this game ended with me loosing 😔. I believe a big puller would have been a good idea... But someone with more success than me probably knows best. 👍
Hi,I’m have watched ur video several times how to change wheel bearing,I have a bmw 323i e46 ,do you know the torques on bolts when to be put bk together please
Trailing arm pocket to body = 57ft/lbs Lower Control arm outer = 81ft/lbs Upper control arm outer = 57ft/lbs Axle nut = 184ft/lbs I rarely use torque settings though, mostly it's down by "feel", experience and I check things very regularly.
You're right but I tried that, along with attempting to beat it to death with a large ball pein, small sledge hammer, leprechauns tears and much blood. Map gas was used... If I'd have had oxy/acet maybe making it liquid would have done the trick. Sadly, this one just wasn't up for playing the nice way, so it went away to be made into other things.
From Bimmerworld "Rear axle stub nut (collar nut), M24x1.5, multi-point retaining nut that holds the rear axle into the hub." 12 point socket required possibly 30 or 36mm size.
HI,i was hoping to hear more swearing seeing that i followed your method and i hurt a lot of fingers ,no shot it mate your way was much easier ,thanks.
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Not read the comments but I find it easier to knock the shaft out with the not still on as it can mushroom and damage threads but great vid
Absolutely, mine was VERY new and easy. I should have added this detail. Always leave the nut on until the shaft is loose 👍👍
Haha just watched the full stroker and gubbings n the patter you have is fairly chuckle worthy
You a choocter or up fife way
I'm originally from Glasgow, but spent 20 years in Dorset and have just moved to the North East. Thanks for watching and the kind comment 👍
Super job, I tried replacing the bearing on my Canadian 1995 320i twice using the cups and the bearing failed in short order both times. This was the only way to make it last. Brake cable was really hard to get off. Made my dust cover get thru it. Thanks for a great video.
It sounds like we’re getting help from soap mctavish that’s soo awesome lol
Och aye the noo
There isnt any human in the world i trust more than this guy🤣
I love watching your videos because you do things correctly but also using common garage tools that most of us have at home. It makes the repairs very realistic. I think my M3 is going to have the whole rear subframe out next spring 😅.
Thanks, Its really satisfying to be able to show how we can all have a go and get reasonable results. Good luck with the m3 👍
I found your channel from doing my handbrake on my e36 a few months back - love that this vid echoes bits of it!
Made it 15 min in before I decided to let a professional handle this. Thanks for the great video! Your channel has helped me a ton over the past two years of E36 ownership.
Like so many things... Its all about the tools 👍
@@ManSeeksCivic Exactly. Not going to attempt this one in my apartment parking lot 😂
As a greasy hands lover - pleasure to watch. Naice job. Thank you. 👍
No way, this video is an absolute coincidence! My father and I are planning on getting our rear wheel bearings replaced as it's been a while and we can hear some sounds from them, so yeah, this will be a lot of help, cheers! Love all your videos as always Pamo.
Nice one. Hopefully this gives you a good idea of the fun that's involved 👍
Way to go mate!! I tooled up for this job and replaced the 2 swivel joints while I was in there.
I had no issue on mine droping sway bar then axles. After that removeing brakes and rotors, so can use a slide hammer to pull hub. If you can get ahold of a otc hub grappler, you dont need the slide hammer. I would rate the the through rod with cups that never fit equal to the balancing act of a press.
Also, hub flange can be removed with a slide hammer with arm on car. I bought a tool off ebay to then press the old bearing out and new one in (trying to find it for link but seems to be gone unfortunately). Effectively its just a large threaded bolt with correct washers/cups. But with these tools I've now done several wheel bearings at home on e36. Good video, keep it up
I hope I can use my slide hammer to pull the bearing as well, I've got a kit with a 5lb slide hammer to pull the hub and bearings, I have an internal puller as well if the bearing fails while pulling.
@@Not_Loading you have to use a decently sized slide hammer designed for wheel bearings. And they can take many shocks to release if never changed or bearing damaged.
@@fvresonanator the bearing was replaced quite recently actually, the axle failed and I think that led to an early death for the bearing. Probably less than a year or year and a half ago it was replaced, my concern now is whether or not I can put the hub back in without damaging the bearing, I know I can get it back into the trailing arm with my mini sledge and patience but the bit in the video about destroying the bearing while reinstalling the hub is making me think
@@Not_Loading once the bearing has been pressed into hub (by pressing the outer race only), the hub must be pressed in next. When doing this, you must place a washer on opposite side that seats against the inner race of bearing. Otherwise, yes you will damage bearing. You need to use the correct tools believe me, you'll spend hours trying different ways and make no progress. If you see in US, look at ECS tuning or Turner motorsport. They sell proper tools for jobs such as these
great vid. I have one to change. i was going to try a puller for on car removal.
You are savage dude :) I have always replaced mine with the knuckle still attached to the car, but I am thinking of doing it your way. better to do most of the work on a bench than bending over at the side of the car for hours...
Proper vid mate from across the pond . Not looking forward to doing at home versus at the job .
That 'mistake' happened to me too haha. Forgot to put the handbrake shoes on. Managed to do it still but not pleasant. try getting the splash shield on it with the hub installed LOL.
A foolish error, but disaster was averted. I wasn't prepared to tear it all back down. It my car, balls to it 😂
This has always been a job Ive avoided. Thanks for showing how its done!
Good video. I'm surprised you didn't just drop the arm off complete and do the fiddly work on the bench. That's what I usually do. And also if the shaft won't come out of the hub you can remove the cups directly from the diff and then deal with the offender on the bench. Really good vid though man. Enjoyed it.
Thank you 👍
Good information there mate, wheel bearings can be a pain on e36s. Also we have started our own stroker build now after taking some inspiration from your videos. Doing a vlog of the progress on our channel, have a look and any advise would he appreciated.
Nice one man. I'll take a look 👍
Thank you.
Excellent!
Hi Pamo ,iv trailing arm off car,but handbrake cable still attached to trailing arm ,how do you take it out properly,I have loosened handbrake completely
They often cease into the hub so the easiest way is to completely disconnect it inside the car and pull the cable out with the arm. Once it's off the car you can then try to remove it from the hub.
@@ManSeeksCivic Thankyou
What should be the torque on the big nut that retains the hub on the excel?
Thanks, good video.
Cheers, great video as always. Your videos have been a great help, thank you. Not long going to be doing this as part of my Evo rear end swap into my 328i. Probably a daft question because I couldn't see that you had but, did you have to take the other side of the drive shaft away from the diff?
No, that's the beauty of this way. The shaft stays bolted to the diff. Saves faffing around with the awkward torx bolts.
Cheers, thanks
Any tips or advice on getting the drive shafts out of the hub, mine are stuck on both sides. Trying but failing with mapp gas, freeze spray and the hammers keep getting bigger
Sam, I wish I could help, but this game ended with me loosing 😔.
I believe a big puller would have been a good idea... But someone with more success than me probably knows best. 👍
Hi,I’m have watched ur video several times how to change wheel bearing,I have a bmw 323i e46 ,do you know the torques on bolts when to be put bk together please
Which bolts specifically?
@@ManSeeksCivic All of them or can you tighten up by impact wrench
Thanks by the way for your quick response back
Ok,thank you ,I have subscribed to you ,how much force to get those 3 bolts off arm do you actually need
Trailing arm pocket to body = 57ft/lbs
Lower Control arm outer = 81ft/lbs
Upper control arm outer = 57ft/lbs
Axle nut = 184ft/lbs
I rarely use torque settings though, mostly it's down by "feel", experience and I check things very regularly.
What's the bearing number?
You need a air hammer to remove the axle from the hub. It bent my pullers. Needs to be shocked out to break the rust.
You're right but I tried that, along with attempting to beat it to death with a large ball pein, small sledge hammer, leprechauns tears and much blood. Map gas was used... If I'd have had oxy/acet maybe making it liquid would have done the trick. Sadly, this one just wasn't up for playing the nice way, so it went away to be made into other things.
@@ManSeeksCivic okay fair enough haha, you're one must have been really siezed!
Thank you very much
If I was to buy an E36 what sort of price am I looking at and do you have any tips on what to look out for?
£2500-4000 for a decent 6 pot I would say and rust is the biggest concern.
@@HARRY96BMX wow thats not cheap but on the flip side will it make me more attractive to the opposite sex?
Save a couple grand and tool up.
What size and name is the nut holding the axel ?
From Bimmerworld
"Rear axle stub nut (collar nut), M24x1.5, multi-point retaining nut that holds the rear axle into the hub."
12 point socket required possibly 30 or 36mm size.
Nice nice video
HI,i was hoping to hear more swearing seeing that i followed your method and i hurt a lot of fingers ,no shot it mate your way was much easier ,thanks.
Thank you 👍
My bearing was so bad I pulled my hub out by hand and pieces of bearing came with it lol
Good
Why didn't he just take the snap ring off and pop the whole thing out that way ?
I’m gonna wait till next year Fuck that
It's a good thing I work in a machine shop. I'll just use the press we got there. RIP everybody else
Not a nice job, wish you'd posted this before I had a crack at mine.. ended up having to do the walk of shame to the local garage😂
There's never any shame in asking for help 👍
👍
Make me wanna sell the car omfg all this work over a freaking bearing
Don't let it scare you, this was a bad one.