Just did this myself on a 2000 M Roadster. One problem I had was the axle simply would not come out. I resorted to a 15 Ton puller (~$100) and it did the trick. Your youtube was Extremely helpful.
This the best video ever about replace rear bearing bmw. Actually I have E91 and your video showing perfectly how I should do ;) I have the same tool and I will be do tommorow. Left side. Rear was doing 4 years ago. Regards from Poland.
No wonder getting this job done in a garage costs so much, labour intensive, I know mechanics in a shop with a ramp is faster than us at home on a floor but I enjoy doing it and you save money on top of a great sense of achievement. It's all about the right tool for the job. It's far to heavy work to use anything but good quality equipment. Great video, very thorough and I'm sure once I buy the tools I can do the job, tools and parts will still come in cheaper than getting it done at the garage.
Great step-by-step tutorial! The only way to have made it better was to have the captions up on screen a little longer. I had to do a lot of pause-rewind-play-pause to read them.
Thanks for this one, just done my e46 on the drive....in the rain.....with much swearing but this guidance was spot on. The only thing i would add is to assume that the driveshaft will be well stuck in the hub and have suitable tools available. If you are going to use a puller like the one shown in this video to push the shaft out, it better be a strong one.....i managed to destroy one before getting a better puller and even then it took a crazy amount of force. That aside though, great guide!
The tools are not that bad to buy...you can save that money for not going to a mechanic which I think it will cost you the same amount of money. But you have now the tools and expiriance too ;)
I have all these same tools in preparation to do this job tomorrow, and I'm still apprehensive...that is until I saw him both pull and drive everything using that small crescent wrench lol. I'll socket the 30" bar on there and should have zero problems.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I actually followed your tutorial to replace the rear bearing on a 4 wheel drive Skoda Octavia 1U (equivalent to VW Golf 4) because I couldn't find a video on that. Almost exactly the same steps, only that I didn't have to remove the sway bar bushing and link ;)
Sublime compañero,el Lunes que viene me pongo a ello y me ha servido mucho para ver lo que me espera,te doy un 15 de puntuacion!!! Eres un crack,gracias por tu tiempo y experiencia.
What he said on 1:21 is something I would definitely NOT recommend. You could ruin your Wheel-Threads with the threads of the smaller bolts. The Threads of the smaller bolts works like a round-file to the Wheel-Threads. If you do it like he did, use the non-threaded shaft of the bold inside the Wheel-Thread. I would recommend to use the Wheel-bolts and safe them with a Nut at the opposite side of the disk.
There is no room to insert the non-threaded shaft of the bolt... And I am 100% confident that the smaller thread won't affect the wheel hub thread. They don't even touch it! And thanks for the feedback ;)
G S just cut the thread-length on the smaller bolts and keep 10mm. You could also remove (and replace) your hand break pad. Its a one-minute job. But anyway... thank you for sharing!!!
Bonsoir, C'est de l'excellent travail, toutes les procédures d'emmanchement du roulement ont été respectées, félicitation. De plus, tu es méticuleux, tu prends ton temps et fourni donc du travail de qualité, sans compter les mises en avant, vidéos à l'appui, des phases délicates de montage. Dommage qu'il y ai si peut de gens comme toi sur le net qui fournissent de telles vidéos de qualité.
at 6:47 , that size isn't too clear on the plate, does it say 955-11 ? it's a bit too faded to read it, i'm almost 100% that reads 955-11 . just want to make sure so i know i use the correct size
I used: Axial Ball Thrust Bearing 51105 25mm*42mm*11mm. Basically take the washer included in your tool and buy the bearing same size or slightly larger. See the ebay link in the description, that is similar to the one I used.
I believe I messed up the part at 26:12 when you show the backside of the bearing. Instead of using a smaller disc to put pressure only on the inner race when pressing the hub, I used the same size disc as when pressing in the bearing, meaning I put pressure on all the insides of the bearing instead of just the inner race. The reason I even thought of this is because my hub felt kindof "loose" when it was pressed and done. I could rock it a little when applying "moment load" on the bearing (i.e. pushing/pulling at 3 and 9 o'clock.) After tightning the axle it all felt "ok" and as tight like it should, but I'm not confident I did it 100% correct Have I damaged my bearing by not pressing on the inner race?
from my knowledge at least, deep groove ball bearings don’t do too well against axial loading. they’re “okay.” i do believe they would be strong enough to withstand the force applied to get it to seat in the hub but the only way to really tell is to periodically check it as you drive
@@MCatwar thanks. That is exactly the thing I was worried about, since pushing the hub in is putting axial load on the bearing and I also know these bearings are not meant for that kind of load. I will try to check the wheel every now and then. I mean, it seemed alright when the drive shaft was in and the nut was tightened; maybe the drive shaft has pressed the inner race a bit back out, and "balanced it"(?) Either way, I will keep inspecting it periodically
If I understood ir correctly, you did no use the size correctly to match the inner race of the bearing (as shown in 23:20), right? That size should be accurate to let the bearing support the force of the entering hub. I don’t think it would hurt to use a large one since the inner race will still be hold. Always use the type of piece I used and don’t use a cup as when the bearing was removed since it won’t hold the inner part of it. Cheers! Let me know what you end up doing.
@@gsmecanica Yes that's right, I used the same disc on the back-/inside to press the hub in as I used to press the bearing in, cirka same diameter as the bearing (70/80 something mm). The disc fit over the hole seen from the back, and in the rush of it I didnt care to swap it out since I had just used that same disc to press the bearing, meaning it didn't support any of the bearing when pressing the hub. I only used the cup type to pull the bearing out The bearing kit wasn't too expensive, so I could afford doing it right the second time, but the amount of work makes me want to put it off and see what happens
@@nibrobb Ok I see. Worst case scenario it will start to have play in it. The second time it will be faster as you already know all the steps. Good luck!
The bearing ye used and placed in plastic bag....is one ye use later...or one u improvised to improve the tool? Thanks for the non music, it helps in my case😎🇧🇪 bob the belgian
Great video. I had to do this to replace my hub after an accident so I don't really need the hub anymore. I think my question is, using the puller, knowing very well it's a strong iron piece, does it not somehow bend it slightly to cause runout?
I almost changed the wheel bearing on my BMW e46, i did it in an authorized workshop. But I still have that bad bearing dot sound. What could be another problem?
I estimate this to be a 2 hour job on each side, if you use the proper tools and do it tidy as I did. You may do it faster once you've done one side. Note that the driver side has the exhaust that you need to drop to be able to remove the axle shaft, so that is a 15 min task. But other than that, my video shows pretty much all you need to calculate the job time. Besides having to use the jaw puller on the axle, I had no mayor complications.
I just bought a new hub rather that mess with getting the old bearing race off. they are around $40 each or $53 for a pair. Often hubs have threads that are distorted from shops using impacts to tighten the lug bolts. Cheap insurance from doing this again.
This video is great! Try soaking stubborn parts in penetrating oil for some time The tools listed can be found CHEAPER on ebay if you are willing to shop around!
Great vid! Can you advise which way the new bearing is meant to be pressed in? The new bearing kit i have has the same colour dust covers either side so i don’t know which side has the encoder in it for the ABS sensor to read. Can you help advise?
Just yesterday received my $20 magnetic sensor card that I can now use to actually see which side of the bearing has the mag encoder ring...saves guessing / mistakes.
Can the drive flange/hub be removed without pushing the drive axle out? In other words, it possible to pull out the hub and release the axle using the slide hammer? I'm thinking that might ruin the axle if it's seized in the hub. THANKS!
Hhmm are you having issues removing the axel? You can try heating the axel in the hub, then using the bearing tool I used. You wont be able to remove the bearing without removing the axel
@@gsmecanica Thanks for replying...Yes, I was having trouble moving the axle, so I tried used the slide hammer to try to move both the hub and leave the axle behind. No luck. Hope I didn't ruin the axle.
@@gsmecanica That's good to know. I have to ask, if it's that hard to remove the axle, how in the world will it go back in??? I assume that since no one shows this in their videos, that it simply slides back in. But, in the case like mine where I have to hammer the crap into the axle, will it be just as hard to pull back in. Thanks in advance!
No worries, after you clean all the rust in there, just put some anti-seize and it will slide back in. It will fit tight, but without having to hammer it at all.
You make a mistake on 16:13 because you press in the bearing with a tool, that touches the inner and outer ring at the same time. Then force goes through the bearing itself and could damage it
They are slighty off set, and even if they were at the same level it won’t be damaged since the inner won’t get any force because they outer gets it all. But anyhow it is a super valid statement what you commented, thanks for the suggestion!
@@gsmecanica hi. You are right, if there is an offest, that the inner ring is smaller, than it is perfect. If they are even, damage could happen but is unlikely.
Also get yourself a bigger wrench when you trying to pull out the wheel bearing you'll have way better leverage and easier for the top out not to mention faster
The trick is using a roller bearing at the end, you won't need a big wrench I promise. You can manage without one, but you will make a lot of extra force.
@@petercan1020 I used it once but only for the back of the bearing that remained attached to the hub, I think it was rusty. I gave it a couple of pulls with the hummer and then continued with the other method shown here. So yes, I tried it and works ok :)
Hey thank for the verry good video👍🏻 I have a question about the substance, that you are puting inside the bearing. What is it? Sorry i am a german with bad english but we have a nice car 😉
The one used at the Outer race removal at 6:06 is 73mm (955-11 code in the kit). The one used to push the new bearing at 15:03 is 84mm (955-06 code in the kit). You could measure the new bearing diameter for the inner and outer race beforehand.
A smaller size than the wheel lugs so they won’t screw and damage your threads. And longer so you can put a nut. I don’t have then handy now but later during the week I can look them and let you know the size.
You are right, I will update the description and add this one instead: www.ebay.com/itm/BGS-Tools-Wheel-Bearing-Puller-With-Sliding-Hammer-7735/291743464871
How is the F.A.G. bearing holding up ? I've done this job twice on the passenger side rear and the bearing doesn't seem to last for more than 6 mos to a year.
Good job, one thing I missed was the orientation of the bearing. The bearing that you put in seams to have an end where the outer ring had a smaller diameter a couple of mm fron the one end. This is as i understand helping to alignment of the bearing when installed. Good video though, but laughed a little when you last your balls,,,,, LOL
Just did this myself on a 2000 M Roadster. One problem I had was the axle simply would not come out. I resorted to a 15 Ton puller (~$100) and it did the trick. Your youtube was Extremely helpful.
Thanks for posting this. Nice to watch a video without listening to someone talking incessantly the whole time.
Perfect tutorial & TG NOFRIGIN MUSIC TO DISTRACT FROM ATTENTION TO DETAIL🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂
This the best video ever about replace rear bearing bmw. Actually I have E91 and your video showing perfectly how I should do ;) I have the same tool and I will be do tommorow. Left side. Rear was doing 4 years ago. Regards from Poland.
No wonder getting this job done in a garage costs so much, labour intensive, I know mechanics in a shop with a ramp is faster than us at home on a floor but I enjoy doing it and you save money on top of a great sense of achievement. It's all about the right tool for the job. It's far to heavy work to use anything but good quality equipment. Great video, very thorough and I'm sure once I buy the tools I can do the job, tools and parts will still come in cheaper than getting it done at the garage.
Great step-by-step tutorial! The only way to have made it better was to have the captions up on screen a little longer. I had to do a lot of pause-rewind-play-pause to read them.
I'll leave them longer next time ;)
Same
TOTALLY BROTHER, I JUST GOT DONE WRITING THE SAME THING WHEN I SAW YOUR COMMENT. I FIGURED I COULDNT BE THE ONLY ONE WHO WAS FRUSTRATED BY THAT!!! 👍
@@gsmecanica NEXT TIME DOESNT HELP THE GUYS WHOSE BEARING IS OUT NOW AND APPARENTLY THERE ARE QUITE A FEW WITH ME INCLUDED!
@@mikesanto69 I am not sure what you mean. The procedure to install the bearing is included in the video.
This is the best tutorial i have ever seen. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
One of the best you don’t need to talk to much to understand like the others talk to much the best video
One of the best DIY videos I've ever seen. Good work man!
Teufel Hunden tks mate!
I put the bearing in the freezer it went in nicely and used a breaker bar to press in out etc but it still a pig of a job good work
Me solucionaste la vida. Buen video. Saludos desde ARG
Thanks for this one, just done my e46 on the drive....in the rain.....with much swearing but this guidance was spot on. The only thing i would add is to assume that the driveshaft will be well stuck in the hub and have suitable tools available. If you are going to use a puller like the one shown in this video to push the shaft out, it better be a strong one.....i managed to destroy one before getting a better puller and even then it took a crazy amount of force. That aside though, great guide!
👏
Great job! Neat, tidy and excellent step-by-step guidance.
This is perfection .. despite the tools which are very expensive, everything else is great.
Thanks! I always end up reusing those tools on other projects.
The tools are not that bad to buy...you can save that money for not going to a mechanic which I think it will cost you the same amount of money. But you have now the tools and expiriance too ;)
a very good method ,well done clean and meticulous professional approach.
I have all these same tools in preparation to do this job tomorrow, and I'm still apprehensive...that is until I saw him both pull and drive everything using that small crescent wrench lol.
I'll socket the 30" bar on there and should have zero problems.
Robert Morgan
Great video, thanks for sharing! I actually followed your tutorial to replace the rear bearing on a 4 wheel drive Skoda Octavia 1U (equivalent to VW Golf 4) because I couldn't find a video on that.
Almost exactly the same steps, only that I didn't have to remove the sway bar bushing and link ;)
Well done!
Absolutely the BEST video there is for this job!!!!!
Sublime compañero,el Lunes que viene me pongo a ello y me ha servido mucho para ver lo que me espera,te doy un 15 de puntuacion!!!
Eres un crack,gracias por tu tiempo y experiencia.
Gracias!
Thank you tutorial Bearings bmw e36 nice video
Thanks a lot! Very good video. I have already done job, but my parts were a bit more rustier. Your car looks pretty fresh ;)
Right, here in Buenos Aires we do not have salt on our road therefore there is almost no rust. Glad you finished your job mate!
Excellent video! I can now service my M62TU. You give detailed examples and do not use an impact (the correct way).
What he said on 1:21 is something I would definitely NOT recommend. You could ruin your Wheel-Threads with the threads of the smaller bolts. The Threads of the smaller bolts works like a round-file to the Wheel-Threads. If you do it like he did, use the non-threaded shaft of the bold inside the Wheel-Thread. I would recommend to use the Wheel-bolts and safe them with a Nut at the opposite side of the disk.
There is no room to insert the non-threaded shaft of the bolt... And I am 100% confident that the smaller thread won't affect the wheel hub thread. They don't even touch it! And thanks for the feedback ;)
G S just cut the thread-length on the smaller bolts and keep 10mm. You could also remove (and replace) your hand break pad. Its a one-minute job. But anyway... thank you for sharing!!!
Yes you are right it is easier when everything is exposed.
Thx for this super helpful video made everything clear and also using tools that can be rented from your local auto parts store 👍🏽
Good job and thanks for sharing .. i have E46 328ci 1999 .. and i need to change the wheel bearing 👍👍 thanks alot
Yep. The proper way!
Thanks for this, saved me tons of time and stress!
Incredible attention to detail. Thumbs up. Thank you.
matreyia thanks mate! Glad it helped
Bonsoir,
C'est de l'excellent travail, toutes les procédures d'emmanchement du roulement ont été respectées, félicitation.
De plus, tu es méticuleux, tu prends ton temps et fourni donc du travail de qualité, sans compter les mises en avant, vidéos à l'appui, des phases délicates de montage.
Dommage qu'il y ai si peut de gens comme toi sur le net qui fournissent de telles vidéos de qualité.
Merci Pat :)
What’s the stuff you keep applying to the bearing- hub assembly?
at 6:47 , that size isn't too clear on the plate, does it say 955-11 ? it's a bit too faded to read it, i'm almost 100% that reads 955-11 . just want to make sure so i know i use the correct size
Axial bearings. Neat trick. I guess needle bearings would work too?
It should, yes!
Excellent DYI. Can you please cite size and source of the axial bearing used? Thx!
I used: Axial Ball Thrust Bearing 51105 25mm*42mm*11mm. Basically take the washer included in your tool and buy the bearing same size or slightly larger. See the ebay link in the description, that is similar to the one I used.
Thx!
At least on S52 cars, getting the axle shaft out of and into the hub requires a lot of force. You can't simply pull it out by hand.
I believe I messed up the part at 26:12 when you show the backside of the bearing. Instead of using a smaller disc to put pressure only on the inner race when pressing the hub, I used the same size disc as when pressing in the bearing, meaning I put pressure on all the insides of the bearing instead of just the inner race.
The reason I even thought of this is because my hub felt kindof "loose" when it was pressed and done. I could rock it a little when applying "moment load" on the bearing (i.e. pushing/pulling at 3 and 9 o'clock.) After tightning the axle it all felt "ok" and as tight like it should, but I'm not confident I did it 100% correct
Have I damaged my bearing by not pressing on the inner race?
from my knowledge at least, deep groove ball bearings don’t do too well against axial loading. they’re “okay.” i do believe they would be strong enough to withstand the force applied to get it to seat in the hub but the only way to really tell is to periodically check it as you drive
@@MCatwar thanks. That is exactly the thing I was worried about, since pushing the hub in is putting axial load on the bearing and I also know these bearings are not meant for that kind of load.
I will try to check the wheel every now and then.
I mean, it seemed alright when the drive shaft was in and the nut was tightened; maybe the drive shaft has pressed the inner race a bit back out, and "balanced it"(?) Either way, I will keep inspecting it periodically
If I understood ir correctly, you did no use the size correctly to match the inner race of the bearing (as shown in 23:20), right? That size should be accurate to let the bearing support the force of the entering hub. I don’t think it would hurt to use a large one since the inner race will still be hold. Always use the type of piece I used and don’t use a cup as when the bearing was removed since it won’t hold the inner part of it.
Cheers! Let me know what you end up doing.
@@gsmecanica Yes that's right, I used the same disc on the back-/inside to press the hub in as I used to press the bearing in, cirka same diameter as the bearing (70/80 something mm). The disc fit over the hole seen from the back, and in the rush of it I didnt care to swap it out since I had just used that same disc to press the bearing, meaning it didn't support any of the bearing when pressing the hub. I only used the cup type to pull the bearing out
The bearing kit wasn't too expensive, so I could afford doing it right the second time, but the amount of work makes me want to put it off and see what happens
@@nibrobb Ok I see. Worst case scenario it will start to have play in it. The second time it will be faster as you already know all the steps. Good luck!
just in time I get this fun tomorrow with both sides
The bearing ye used and placed in plastic bag....is one ye use later...or one u improvised to improve the tool? Thanks for the non music, it helps in my case😎🇧🇪 bob the belgian
Great video. I had to do this to replace my hub after an accident so I don't really need the hub anymore. I think my question is, using the puller, knowing very well it's a strong iron piece, does it not somehow bend it slightly to cause runout?
No it does not. At least in my experience. It is a strong puller that is true but the bearing will give first
I almost changed the wheel bearing on my BMW e46, i did it in an authorized workshop. But I still have that bad bearing dot sound. What could be another problem?
What was the clicking noise when turning the hub at the end
Where is that thing for what you take off at: 20:15? And that orange plastic is that for protection or you must leave that on?
At 20:15 I am extracting the inner race (from the old bearing) that got stuck at the hub, they always do. What orange plastic? When?
@@gsmecanica 20:50 that orange
Great Video, One of the best i've seen! Thanks
thanks man!
Question: In total, how long did it take you to do this one bearing?
I estimate this to be a 2 hour job on each side, if you use the proper tools and do it tidy as I did. You may do it faster once you've done one side. Note that the driver side has the exhaust that you need to drop to be able to remove the axle shaft, so that is a 15 min task. But other than that, my video shows pretty much all you need to calculate the job time.
Besides having to use the jaw puller on the axle, I had no mayor complications.
Cool cool!
You should add axial bearing to the list of tools, I didn't catch that till now and wish i got one haha.
Where did you buy yours from?
Yes you are right. I just added the tool in the description. How did the job worked for you?
Do you think you could update the parts links from the description? Some of the links show up to no longer existing listings unfortunately
Great job. This video is very informative!
thanks john!
I just bought a new hub rather that mess with getting the old bearing race off. they are around $40 each or $53 for a pair. Often hubs have threads that are distorted from shops using impacts to tighten the lug bolts. Cheap insurance from doing this again.
When I buy and install new hubs, I also buy new BMW lug bolts and take the old to the recycling yard along with all old parts.
What are the bearing tools used???? Make ?? Bought from where??
AMAZING VIDEO! THANK YOU SO MUCH!
thank you. that was a good class to do my own
De nada Martin!
What bearing puller set is that?
I bought it on amazon, but it's a german product. I can recall the product name right now, it was years ago.
Tks for the instructions👍
Is there a side for the bearing ?
I like this so much I subscribed!
Amazing tutorial thank you so much!
;)
what's the stuff in the plastic bottle "Permatex". what?
Two things
1) You must be an engineer, you seem very particular in your actions.
2) what grease did you use? Did you use graphite based?
Thanks
Hi Adam, yes I am an engineer :) I use anti-seize grease (from Permatex), that is to avoid future corrosion issues.
Amazing tutorial. One question. Why did you put the bearings in the freezer? And for how long? Thanks.
Thanks! If you heat the hub and freeze the bearing then it will slide with almost no effort. Metal shrinks when cold and expand when hot.
What are you applying at 14:23? Some king of grease?
Permatex grease...the grey stuff protects from corrosion
This video is great! Try soaking stubborn parts in penetrating oil for some time
The tools listed can be found CHEAPER on ebay if you are willing to shop around!
ubergama30 Took notes tks ;) feel free to paste the link and I will pin it
Can anybody please update the parts links from the description?
What size bolts and washers did you use to put into the hub?
Great vid! Can you advise which way the new bearing is meant to be pressed in? The new bearing kit i have has the same colour dust covers either side so i don’t know which side has the encoder in it for the ABS sensor to read. Can you help advise?
Just yesterday received my $20 magnetic sensor card that I can now use to actually see which side of the bearing has the mag encoder ring...saves guessing / mistakes.
Great video
Can the drive flange/hub be removed without pushing the drive axle out? In other words, it possible to pull out the hub and release the axle using the slide hammer? I'm thinking that might ruin the axle if it's seized in the hub. THANKS!
Hhmm are you having issues removing the axel? You can try heating the axel in the hub, then using the bearing tool I used. You wont be able to remove the bearing without removing the axel
@@gsmecanica Thanks for replying...Yes, I was having trouble moving the axle, so I tried used the slide hammer to try to move both the hub and leave the axle behind. No luck. Hope I didn't ruin the axle.
It is quite strong don’t worry. Try hammering it back with a wood that way it won’t be damaged.
@@gsmecanica That's good to know. I have to ask, if it's that hard to remove the axle, how in the world will it go back in??? I assume that since no one shows this in their videos, that it simply slides back in. But, in the case like mine where I have to hammer the crap into the axle, will it be just as hard to pull back in. Thanks in advance!
No worries, after you clean all the rust in there, just put some anti-seize and it will slide back in. It will fit tight, but without having to hammer it at all.
Great video! Where can you purchase the hub bearing puller set shown on your video?
I put a link in the description section, is it still available?
Do you have link to the tool ?
You make a mistake on 16:13 because you press in the bearing with a tool, that touches the inner and outer ring at the same time. Then force goes through the bearing itself and could damage it
They are slighty off set, and even if they were at the same level it won’t be damaged since the inner won’t get any force because they outer gets it all. But anyhow it is a super valid statement what you commented, thanks for the suggestion!
@@gsmecanica hi. You are right, if there is an offest, that the inner ring is smaller, than it is perfect. If they are even, damage could happen but is unlikely.
Perfect!
What's the bearing number and make?
Will this work on e9x
Cómo se llama ese tipo de llaves que usas para sacar los baleros
Also get yourself a bigger wrench when you trying to pull out the wheel bearing you'll have way better leverage and easier for the top out not to mention faster
The trick is using a roller bearing at the end, you won't need a big wrench I promise. You can manage without one, but you will make a lot of extra force.
@@gsmecanica have you ever tried pulling a bearing with the slide hammer
@@petercan1020 I used it once but only for the back of the bearing that remained attached to the hub, I think it was rusty. I gave it a couple of pulls with the hummer and then continued with the other method shown here. So yes, I tried it and works ok :)
Excelente trabajo,, como te puedo contactar? Soy de argentina
If you buy a new wheel hub do you have to bother with pressing put the inner bearing
I don't think new hubs come with bearings pressed in.
Hey thank for the verry good video👍🏻
I have a question about the substance, that you are puting inside the bearing. What is it?
Sorry i am a german with bad english but we have a nice car 😉
Hey! That is Permatex Anti-Seize Lubricant. To make it easier to remove in the future.
G S
Thank you, and please sende me a Link with your ,“we call in german pull Up „, i hope you understand me ?
Best thank from Colone
Best Video 👌🏻👌🏻
Top Job
You're an artist, this is not only mechanics!
But tell me, what's that compound that you applied after cleaning the area, before install the bearing?
Thanks mate! The compound anti-seize from Permatex. To avoid rust in the future.
Proper job 👏
Tks mate!
Are you supposed to use lube before inserting the seal? What type of lubegrease did you use?
permatex anti-seize
Excellent guide!!
nice tools you have
Do you need any tool to put the drive axles back?
No you don't
Nice,tnx man 👍
Question.... if you used the hub why did you remove the inner race ring
Because the new bearin has it's own inner ring.
G S, you removed the inner race from the hub. Why did you not re install it? do you have to do it? Thank you.
The inner race is actually part of the old bearing that gets stuck in there upon removal. The new bearing comes with it, always.
@@gsmecanica Thank you, I have an 2014 F30 335i and it looks like this needs to be done. I super appreciate your response.
BRAVO MAJSTORE!!!!!!!
Good video
Use the cars wheel bolts.
I avoid damaging those bolts using other cheap ones
@@gsmecanica. You won’t damage them. I’ve been using wheel bolts and slide hammers for decades.
What side of the bearing shoud go inside?
Leters facing outside unless told otherwise.
Great stuff!
Not5 enough info provided
@@gdumers more than enough. If this doesn't help you. Go pay a garage.
What size is the outer race puller piece. The one on the inside to push out the race? Thanks!
The one used at the Outer race removal at 6:06 is 73mm (955-11 code in the kit). The one used to push the new bearing at 15:03 is 84mm (955-06 code in the kit). You could measure the new bearing diameter for the inner and outer race beforehand.
What size bolts did you use to pull the hub off with the slide hammer?
A smaller size than the wheel lugs so they won’t screw and damage your threads. And longer so you can put a nut. I don’t have then handy now but later during the week I can look them and let you know the size.
the slide hammer hub puller link shows the tool is no longer available / 1/4/2018
You are right, I will update the description and add this one instead:
www.ebay.com/itm/BGS-Tools-Wheel-Bearing-Puller-With-Sliding-Hammer-7735/291743464871
thank you!! i appreciate the reply!!! i wanted to get a nice one like you had here in this video. not some cheap junk!!
Right, a big hammer will make your job easier. Post your results after!
i will!! i will make a video and let you know!!!
Where did you get the axial bearing? I've been doing it with just the washers for years!
Look at the link in the description under 'Axial Thrust Bearing'. Yeah it truly makes de difference!
Background sounds like the lobby in forza 7
haHAHa
great video thank you
How is the F.A.G. bearing holding up ? I've done this job twice on the passenger side rear and the bearing doesn't seem to last for more than 6 mos to a year.
Holding great to be honest. What brand as you using?
@@gsmecanica I'm using the same brand, just realized my RTAB'S also need to be replaced and might be shortening the life of my bearings.
I need to replace my RTABs as well now that you mention, I will hurry up with the replacement.
@@gsmecanica RTABs?
Real trailing arm bushings
Hi GS, how did you know both wheel bearings were bad? Greets
One side was making drone / hhmm noise on the higheay so I replaces both.
G S thx, I have similar droning at 90kmph.
Video is detailed by the way 👌🏼
Werner Von Braun change them, a bad wheel bearing will also kill the tire quickly.
codenamecordon finished the wheel bearings today. Changed all the bushes as well.
What is that in 14:24? grease or glue?
Anti-seize grease
Put oil on the bearings of the press.
Super👍
Good job, one thing I missed was the orientation of the bearing. The bearing that you put in seams to have an end where the outer ring had a smaller diameter a couple of mm fron the one end. This is as i understand helping to alignment of the bearing when installed. Good video though, but laughed a little when you last your balls,,,,, LOL
Yeah they were all over the floor hahah