I was pretty overwhelmed with the factory service manual procedure for changing clutch weights. NO THANKS. This seems way simpler, and easier. Thanks a bunch!
This is EXACTLY the video I was looking for. My sled clutch is overly sticky on cold start and I just wanted a quick video so I'd at least have a clue before going in blind.
Very enjoyable. I learned a lot. I have a 2000 Pantera 1000 3 lunger that I have to replace the old clutch (destroyed). Yesterday I picked up a new Comet 108EXP.i have to assemble the weights and springs which I will do before I put the new clutch on. Thanks for the video and cool music!
Tow strap on the primary! Genius! It's not the best way I'm sure the clutch tool is recommended but i can imagine the tow strap works just as good! Helps seeing all these little tricks when you don't want to spend the money to buy things!
great xlt set up with 38mm carbs...10MB weights (always replace pins and nut when change weights) and polaris blue primary spring (120/300), with 42/34 helix and silver polaris secondary spring 2nd hole
F*ck! You make it look so easy! I took the clutch off my '01 ZR 500 and it was a b*tch!! It took me 3 days to take it apart and get the right clutch weight cause one of mine was really wore out and it woulda been $18 for one so you had to order all of them and instead I just drove an hour to see this guy with a huge sled junkyard. But thanks, next time I have to take a clutch apart I'll remember this!
@FrankaDith Ya I basically changed everything so it would adapt to my driving style, deep snow, powder, no trails, for lower gearing and pipes. The revs have to go up around 8800-9200 for the pipes. The engagement will be higher revs and not too harsh so I don't bury the back end on take off, fast downshift for powder as well. won't be a trail performer but will be curious to see how it works in the powder - if we ever get powder:(
Thanks for your video man. I've got a Arctic Cat pantera, hoping it's a similar setup. Seems the parts houses list a Comet EXP 108C- STD 30MM. Hoping I can find what's wrong with it, without pulling it off completely. It does strange knocking under load, but just coasting it's fine. I've already replaced the secondary spring cause it was broken, but this sounds like it's in the primary.
@gangsterbryce That's why I geared down, smaller drivers on the axle, shaving the weight off it, pipes, and clutch kits, - won't be a rocket and will be an interesting experiment. When I blow this engine it's going to get something with some serious ballsack.
When you put the cover back on do not over tighten those bolts. Spec only calls for 100 inch pounds (~8 ft pounds) which many torque wrenches are not accurate enough to measure. Use a small ratchet or choke up when you tighten down and do not over tighten. I broke one of mine and had to use an easy out to get it out!
@MultiCessna206 Yes, a clutch removal tool - I didn't need one at this time as I didn't need to remove the clutch but when I do I'll get the tool. Thanks for watching!
Any comments about the weight guides the weight ride on, and why do you feel it necessary to swap out the originals ? planing on a better hole shot or doing lots of climbing and feel you need to up the revs?
Air leak, dirty carb or cable sticking. Was it fine before the riser? Basic troubleshooting then see a forum for assistance, you will get much better responce than youtube video comments!
just seems a lot higher than my yamaha exciter speed vs rpms. I just took primary apart and cleaned pins, weights etc... Unfortunatly now..... front heat exchanger is toast so i will be gone for a while now.
my indy seems to rev high, more so compared to my yamaha exciter. Not sure what to do, will spring adjustment help this, or weights...... Or is this common to these sleds, 500 cc polaris indy 1997
My indy is idleing high. what do you think it is? I put a 3in. riser and it still has some slop in the throttle cable and it idles at like 3000 rpm and it is sapost to idle at 1600 and it engages at 3800 - 4000. help me?
I have a POLARIS 800 xc sp,(just rebuilt the motor & added mechanical reverse ) I changed the belts twice,my problem is after a few minutes the sled won't move ,I have to work the throttle (feathering)walking the sled finally running along side of it to get it finally moving fast enough to jump on it goes for awhile until I slow down,and its starts all over again just about smoking up the belt- I just wanted to make a point that the sled had the same exact problem before motor rebuild & adding mechanical reverse. and also it works ok when sled is up on the snowmobile crane lift.-with NO WEIGHT FROM RIDER-. I have a brand NEW belt that I regret to put on because of this PROBLEM. -HELP I NEED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY. - Thank you -
ive searched for a helix change on the new polaris clutch, Tss04 i think. cant find a video anywhere! can u make a video changing the helix in your Axys? thanks
HELP! Anybody?? My local shop has tried unsuccessfully to replace a WRONGLY INSTALLED mismatched year clutch on my 1997 XLT (Ultra Touring) sled. Again at some point someone had installed the wrong year clutch and now it won't come off and they say I would need a custom-fab clutch-puller. Any advice??
I got a disassembled primary clutch for my M8 that got resurfaced at a machine shop and when I got it I started pullllled it apart and started cleaning it up and I can't remember for the life of me which way it goes back together ? I didn't mark it like u did is that a big problem ?
I have the same exact sled and it keeps bogging out on me after running for about a mile if even. Then kills when I get to a stop. Tried cleaning carbs tried replacing fuel filter any ideas from anyone?
Hopefully you have solved your issue. Had a similar issue on an artic cat. The line from the crankcase to the fuel pump that makes the diaphram move was split. I think once that line got warm from the engine it softened up and lost pressure. It would rip until it warmed up then bog down and die.
I was pretty overwhelmed with the factory service manual procedure for changing clutch weights. NO THANKS. This seems way simpler, and easier. Thanks a bunch!
Thanks!
The music made me feel like i was on hold with the cable company or something. LOL. Thanks for the vid. Time for a cleaning
These old skool PowerModz videos where the best ! Learnt lot's from these ! Thanks Louie !
Changed my weights using this method, worked great! Thanks!
This is EXACTLY the video I was looking for. My sled clutch is overly sticky on cold start and I just wanted a quick video so I'd at least have a clue before going in blind.
Very enjoyable. I learned a lot. I have a 2000 Pantera 1000 3 lunger that I have to replace the old clutch (destroyed). Yesterday I picked up a new Comet 108EXP.i have to assemble the weights and springs which I will do before I put the new clutch on. Thanks for the video and cool music!
Tow strap on the primary! Genius! It's not the best way I'm sure the clutch tool is recommended but i can imagine the tow strap works just as good! Helps seeing all these little tricks when you don't want to spend the money to buy things!
great xlt set up with 38mm carbs...10MB weights (always replace pins and nut when change weights) and polaris blue primary spring (120/300), with 42/34 helix and silver polaris secondary spring 2nd hole
F*ck! You make it look so easy! I took the clutch off my '01 ZR 500 and it was a b*tch!! It took me 3 days to take it apart and get the right clutch weight cause one of mine was really wore out and it woulda been $18 for one so you had to order all of them and instead I just drove an hour to see this guy with a huge sled junkyard. But thanks, next time I have to take a clutch apart I'll remember this!
@FrankaDith Ya I basically changed everything so it would adapt to my driving style, deep snow, powder, no trails, for lower gearing and pipes. The revs have to go up around 8800-9200 for the pipes. The engagement will be higher revs and not too harsh so I don't bury the back end on take off, fast downshift for powder as well. won't be a trail performer but will be curious to see how it works in the powder - if we ever get powder:(
Thats an awesome video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing. I heading out to do the same now.
@420poppers705 I just had some brake cleaner on hand and used it, worked well.
@MultiCessna206 ya im in canada, eastern canada on the boarder with NY, not much here yet.
@bmxstunter1 not necessarily, there are alot of factors to clutching.
Very Helpful! thanks!
hmmm, the weights were M10 I believe, weight wise I can't say for sure but it was recommended by SLP and by a few people on various boards.
ya it came in handy, i think it was in the shop manual.
@mercmarc Check the service manual for specs on your clutch each one is different.
@420poppers705 carb cleaner, degreaser, acetone for the clutch faces.
@polaris4evr Not on this type of clutch - some have a bit of tension but they can really fly off when using a puller.
wow i didn't know OJ simpson worked on sleds...tee he he
Great vid man
@meaghan10125 lol, i figured!
Thanks for your video man. I've got a Arctic Cat pantera, hoping it's a similar setup. Seems the parts houses list a Comet EXP 108C- STD 30MM. Hoping I can find what's wrong with it, without pulling it off completely. It does strange knocking under load, but just coasting it's fine. I've already replaced the secondary spring cause it was broken, but this sounds like it's in the primary.
Hey thanks for watching!
@gangsterbryce That's why I geared down, smaller drivers on the axle, shaving the weight off it, pipes, and clutch kits, - won't be a rocket and will be an interesting experiment. When I blow this engine it's going to get something with some serious ballsack.
When you put the cover back on do not over tighten those bolts. Spec only calls for 100 inch pounds (~8 ft pounds) which many torque wrenches are not accurate enough to measure. Use a small ratchet or choke up when you tighten down and do not over tighten. I broke one of mine and had to use an easy out to get it out!
Yes, I see now I don't need to remove it, using the "water trick", just for a cleaning and weight/roller check
i like what you are doing with the xlt mod but i think the xlt is a little underpowerd for this length of track maby a turbo :)
How much more weight did you add per weight after adding the pipes??? 2-3 gramm per weight?
@MultiCessna206 Yes, a clutch removal tool - I didn't need one at this time as I didn't need to remove the clutch but when I do I'll get the tool. Thanks for watching!
Any comments about the weight guides the weight ride on, and why do you feel it necessary to swap out the originals ? planing on a better hole shot or doing lots of climbing and feel you need to up the revs?
Air leak, dirty carb or cable sticking. Was it fine before the riser? Basic troubleshooting then see a forum for assistance, you will get much better responce than youtube video comments!
This video had everything I needed to know, the tow strap worked great! What did you spray on it to clean it?
what's the spray cleaner your using to clean the clutch?
what is high?
Are you supposed to use loctite on the bolts?
just seems a lot higher than my yamaha exciter speed vs rpms. I just took primary apart and cleaned pins, weights etc... Unfortunatly now..... front heat exchanger is toast so i will be gone for a while now.
Does your clutch have a bunch of spider cracks on them? Are they detrimental?
my indy seems to rev high, more so compared to my yamaha exciter. Not sure what to do, will spring adjustment help this, or weights...... Or is this common to these sleds, 500 cc polaris indy 1997
My indy is idleing high. what do you think it is? I put a 3in. riser and it still has some slop in the throttle cable and it idles at like 3000 rpm and it is sapost to idle at 1600 and it engages at 3800 - 4000. help me?
Hey can you change the pins, pucks, and rollers on the helix doing this or do i need to take a puller and jank the clutch off?
I have a POLARIS 800 xc sp,(just rebuilt the motor & added mechanical reverse ) I changed the belts twice,my problem is after a few minutes the sled won't move ,I have to work the throttle (feathering)walking the sled finally running along side of it to get it finally moving fast enough to jump on it goes for awhile until I slow down,and its starts all over again just about smoking up the belt- I just wanted to make a point that the sled had the same exact problem before motor rebuild & adding mechanical reverse. and also it works ok when sled is up on the snowmobile crane lift.-with NO WEIGHT FROM RIDER-. I have a brand NEW belt that I regret to put on because of this PROBLEM. -HELP I NEED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY. - Thank you -
What type of cleaner do you use to clean your primary...brake cleaner..soap and water?
one other question, have a 2005 RMK900 w/159 track. The bolt on the primary clutch, is it a reverse thread or standard thread.
how did the spring not cause that plate to launch out at you? wouldnt there be tension on that?
Has any one used spring spacers to up the engagement w/o having to get a spring? Do they change the finish by much? Has anyone made their own?
ive searched for a helix change on the new polaris clutch, Tss04 i think. cant find a video anywhere! can u make a video changing the helix in your Axys? thanks
@MultiCessna206 no idea, i must have pissed off the snow gods:)
Would this be the same as a 2002 polaris edge primary?
HELP! Anybody?? My local shop has tried unsuccessfully to replace a WRONGLY INSTALLED mismatched year clutch on my 1997 XLT (Ultra Touring) sled. Again at some point someone had installed the wrong year clutch and now it won't come off and they say I would need a custom-fab clutch-puller. Any advice??
wow thats weird - have them take it off!
I got a disassembled primary clutch for my M8 that got resurfaced at a machine shop and when I got it I started pullllled it apart and started cleaning it up and I can't remember for the life of me which way it goes back together ?
I didn't mark it like u did is that a big problem ?
The balance of it might be iff
what was it engaging at with stock? and after you put bigger weights and spring?
The 10-46 are actually smaller/lighter weights. Being 46g and the stock 10m5 are 49.5 I believe
*REINSTALL the main bolt. No need to replace it, if it is undamaged
Replace it is often used as the same word reinstalled in manuals
I have the same exact sled and it keeps bogging out on me after running for about a mile if even. Then kills when I get to a stop. Tried cleaning carbs tried replacing fuel filter any ideas from anyone?
Hopefully you have solved your issue. Had a similar issue on an artic cat. The line from the crankcase to the fuel pump that makes the diaphram move was split. I think once that line got warm from the engine it softened up and lost pressure. It would rip until it warmed up then bog down and die.
The music is cracking me up
Typical snowmobiler music ha ha jk Thanks for posting. My 1985 yamaha phazer clutch is engaging too soon I think. So I'm going to have a look.
First :)
Wtf? That music?