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I know you have expanded and grown your business. But I have to tell you I really appreciate this type of content. I remember when you first started you had very practical content for guys like me who do not have fancy tools. We have a saw, drill , hammers and screw drivers and of course a carpenters knife and paint brushes. Thank you for this very helpful practical video.
Another advantage of using something like this is that it teaches you what being perfectly vertical feels like with your drill. It can improve your free hand drilling.
I'm a retired CNC Machinist and although I didn't need something like this, what I did need on occasion was a tapping block. Same concept but just for starting a tap straight. Made quite a few for me and newbies that came into the shop and they were so surprised and impressed there was something like that around. Not sure how long these have been around but now that I don't have a huge machine to drill my holes, this will definitely be on my Christmas list. Thanks for all of your helpful videos. Happy Holidays to you and all that visit.
I actually used the same one for drilling into tiles. The resistance and smoothness of the ceramic would often force the bit to drift without having a chance to get purchase. Because of the rubber on the bottom of the guide block, it stayed steady long enough to actually do its work.
I'm a senior female, I got one of these years ago. I noted that when I'd see others drilling, they'd appeared to be doing so at an angle, even did so myself. So invested in one of these myself. I love using it when needed ! Men folks don't expect me to know and have these little "do dads" on hand !😅😅😊
TIP for centering the drill block EXACTLY where you want to drill. Use an awl to make a small indentation where the center of your hole is to be. Using a small bit - maybe an 1/8", drill about 1/8" deep freehand. Now fit the bit that is the size of the hole you want to make. Slide the drill block over the bit and all the way up to the drill chuck. Now, while holding the drill block against the chuck, you can place the tip of the bit exactly into the pilot hole while keeping the drill as vertical as possible, then slide the block down to the surface of the work piece. Now, while holding the block firmly, if it is not completely seated flush on the work piece, adjust the drill until the block is completely flush to the work piece and now your bit is exactly perpendicular and you can drill to the desired depth. For large diameter holes just use this process starting with smaller diameter holes and work your way up to the final desired diameter. This ensures the location of your hole is dead center of where you want it!
@peterm2227 yeah that seems much more useful than them doing the exact same thing but drilling a pilot hole first. It’s probably also more precise to just start with the tip of the bit you will be drilling with than their method, it’s probably easier to centre the point of a drill on a mark rather then centring the tip of the drill bit in a hole. It’s much faster too to just use a single drill bit and not have to worry about changing bits.
just feed the drill bit all the way through the guideline up the point where you want it and hold it in place as you slide the guide back down to line it up straight. Then drill. Simples.
I got the same one when I wasn’t drilling straight for cornhole legs. Big difference for a novice like myself. You hit the best issues ALL OF THE TIME!!
Even better is a drill with integrated levels. That's why I'm still using my 1990's blue Ryobi drill. It has a horizontal level on top and a centering level on the back of the barrel, so both horizontal and vertical drilling is true. This no longer seems to be part of drill/drivers today, which is a huge oversight.
I glued a surface level to the butt end of my Makita, and it’s saved me a lot of time and trouble. Unfortunately there’s no room on top for a horizontal level.
You would think this would be cheap enough that all major drill manufacturing companies would design this into their drills. Unfortunately, EVERYTHING seems to be just getting to be more and more poorly designed pieces of shyte. I've been through 3 DeWalt impacts this year. The first one, I only drove 6 lag bolts with it before the bearing in the chuck broke so the driving bits fall out. This is a huge hassle. Especially if you're up on a ladder or scaffolding. The other 2 didn't last much longer. The FIRST 20V brushless DeWalt impact I had, when they first came out, lasted several YEARS before that bearing broke. I'm so sick of companies making everything cheaper and shittier but charging more and more money for their products.
Great video. I’ve found that using my middle finger (instead of my index finger) on the trigger of the drill has significantly improved the accuracy (angle) of my drilling. Your index finger ends up along the side of the drill, pointing in the direction you want to drill. Give it a try!
Top notch video. Instead of trying to sight down through the hole, simply slide the drill bit through the appropriate sized hole of the block and then slide the block up to the chuck so that the drill bit is exposed through the bottom of the block. Now simply place the point of the bit onto the mark and allow the block to slide down the bit onto the work surface thus squaring up the bit to the surface.
I haven't really been that interested in these, but seeing how easy it makes drilling into a pipe or at an angle might have sold me on it Another tip I learned from Rex Krueger is to keep a 90° reference in your sight line while drilling or making a square cut. Just having the vertical edge there will make it easier to intuitively hold the drill vertically
I've been using one for years. Since I work with 6 different brands and sizes of drills/impact drivers, no two of them have the same feel. A drill block gives me consistent accuracy with all the drills I use.
Great tip , i worked in the aviation for over 35 years , way way back , we made our own using a drill press or having the machine shop make them. They definitely are practical , love watching your videos 👍 awesome stuff
2:57 really helpful. I’ve bought several of the items you show us as presents for my friends and relatives. Lots of workmen don’t know about a lot of these helpers.
This is a very useful tool and video. To mark where I want to start drilling, I usually use a nail-set to make an indentation, then place the block over the hole, the tip of the bit will settle into the indentation and allow me to find the exact center.
I’ve only just stumbled across your site. From an old(er) female, who was never taught anything more practical than how to put on lipstick straight, thank you, thank you, thank you! I’ve struggled getting anything straight, but this is such a simple solution. Now I’ll be searching your site for how hammer a nail straight - though this gadget might help with that too. Thank you so much again!
Very timely video, I'm doing a lot of drilling and something like this will be a big help to me. Only downside is that now I have to buy another tool. Oh darn, oh heavens no, twist my arm.
This is a great tip. And very timely. I have to drill some deep-ish holes into the edge of 3/4" MDF to mount some furniture leveling feet. In the past, my wife would 3D-print a single-hole drill guide for me; I had no idea these multi-hole guides existed. I like Kreg tools, so I bought a Kreg drill block. I can't wait to get started. Thanks for the video.
I've always struggled with this. I'm about to be putting some cabinet handles in and will definitely use a block like this to make sure my holes are straight all the way through!
You might want to get a cabinet hardware jig. Kreg has one for about $25.00 It allows you to set up where your holes are gonna be drilled on each cabinet, in relation to the edge of the door, so once you have it set up,you take the jig from one door to the next, clamp it on, make your holes and move on. Otherwise, you have to measure for each door, and you are bound to have a couple of them end up off a little bit.
I appreciate this vid so much, I have some personal prop projects and I was about to spend alot on an actual drill press, this short vid just saved me so much money
This is why I like my old Ryobi drill with a bubble level in the back. I don't understand how this didn't become standard and in fact seem to have disappeared.
Although I'm originally from New Marske (1956-1981) I went to senior school in Marske by the Sea, back then it was called Bydales County Modern and I left in 1971. I met my first girlfriend in Marske Square and have spent many hours on the beach, it was even part of our school cross country course. This video brings back great memories. Thank you.
Great and simple inventions, these drillblocks! I've got a few of them, all of different make and with different additional features: the simpler, the better, though. Don't look through the hole, but lift the block up to the Chuck, place the drillbit's tip in the exact location, bring the drill in a near square angle and only THEN press the block to the workpiece. Really, a child can do it.
Unreal Eric! I was not aware they even made drill blocks. Especially drilling at an angle, or the one with lines on the side.I appreciate your sharing, which adds to my gaining more knowledge and tools! 👍⚒🔧
I bought one a few years ago to ensure the holes I needed to drill through my front door to fix a door knocker which had to be spot on. It’s been really useful ever since.
That helps alot! I want to add adjustable shelves in the backs of some fairly deep cabinets. It's super awkward to reach in to drill the holes for the little shelf pegs.
Who said you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. lol Learning new things from you pros all the time. Appreciate it a lot Ethan. Keep up the good work my man !!
Ethan years ago DeWalt use to have a 3/8 corded drill that had a level on the back of it for drilling straight but these days all the drills have gone away from that simplicity
You do it exactly the way I’ve done it for years, and I couldn’t agree more! I even have the same guide. Maybe the first video I didn’t learn something new from you, but the confirmation made me feel good! 😂 A bonus tip: If the guide thickness prevents drilling to the required depth, I sometimes use a longer, narrower bit to get the depth I want, then remove the guide and drill with the bit I need. Starting with that full-depth pilot hole makes it nearly impossible to drill the final hole skewed. (I could also buy a collection of long bits, but I don’t really need them.) FWIW, years ago I had one of those portable drill press guides, and it was dreadfully inaccurate. Thanks again, Ethan, for your content, which is always clear, to the point, and great advice.
I have numerous Milescraft products including the same drill block. They are definitely a company to check out for more affordable options for wood working. They may be cheaper than big names but they aren't cheap quality.
I needed an exact 90 degree hole a while back and ended up buying the Milescraft drill press you showed in the beginning. I had no idea they also did something called a drill block which achieved essentially the same thing. In fact, I had no idea drill blocks existed at all until this video! Having said that, I needed to use a Forstner drill bit for that task so the block would not have been suitable there but I think I'll get a drill block too as it is lighter and easier to use for normal drilling. Thanks for the info!
1) I love that you came out and are endorsing a drill block/guide. These little guys don't get enough praise. I don't know if people are embarrassed to use it or think it's gimmicky, but it really does the trick. I guess that's why you're The Honest Carpenter! 2) AMATEUR-TIP: Instead of having to worry about sighting your drill mark through the hole, or using a center punch as other comments mentioned, I go with something even simpler, and I think more accurate: Slide the drill block over your drill bit and slide it back towards the chuck before you go to drill. Put your drill bit down onto your drill mark, then slide the drill block down onto the wood. It makes sure your drill bit is where it's supposed to be without the drill block being in the way. Disclaimer: This tip is definitely a bit late, and I admittedly only glanced over the first 30 or so comments to make sure it wasn't a duplicate, but I apologize if others have mentioned it already.
Also, when drilling put most of the pressure on the end of the drill opposite the chuck....not on the pistol grip. You will break less drill bits that way especially in metal.
Perfect for me. So many times without making a pre hole, with a nail, my drill would go in crooked. I saw this somewhere and though it’s just what I need. Thanks for showing how to use it.
Ethan, I also use the Milescraft. Got it a couple of years ago and haven't felt the need to throw it at the cat yet. I didn't realize the ribs were line-up guides! 😂 I haven't seen the long, narrow one in stores around me, but I am interested because it includes more sizes. "Better to have it, and not need it, than to need it, and not have it! " (Even if I get one, the cat'll still be safe from the Milescraft...)
The long skinny one is made by Big Gator. I have a couple and they're very nice, but I also have the Kreg version and use that one 99% of the time. It's lighter, cheaper, and plastic so it's one of those things you just quickly reach for because you know if you drop it it's not going to dent your project, and will bounce off of the floor.
WOW who could have guessed... a tool design for that is the way to go... WOOOOOWWWWW, BEST CHANEL EVER, it's not like I'm gonna ban it from my feed or something using the don't recommend channel on the options of youtube
I've been subscribed for a good while now, and THIS is exactly why! It's all these little hints and tidbits that make you a great resource for amateur me! Thanks a bunch!
I'll share the advice I got from my college professor who happened to be a master wood craftsman from Switzerland. He described how he made sure that his tools were straight and true. Though I never saw it, and he never used power tools, he said that he marked parallel lines on his floors and walls perpendicular to his bench so that he could always sight bits and saw blades with the lines. This was in the '70s before all of today's expensive tools existed and, by the way, he taught Industrial Design;-)
I'm a fan of the Big Gator for its many hole sizes. I also try to mark with an awl or punch first, feed the drill bit through the drill guide hole, insert the drill bit tip into the hole, then slide the drill guide back down to be flush against the surface. Works wonders to drill holes perpendicular into joists for suspending ceiling storage racks or when using long drill bits.
I will definitely try this out. Have one on order. But one more observation I have, for overall drill control, is to use 12V tools instead of giant 18V or bigger tools. Compare the size, geometry, and balance of a Bosch 12V with the Dewalt 18V he shows in the intro. I have rarely run into a situation where I didn’t have enough power to complete a task with my PS31, and it is so much easier to handle.
I was once tapping a press tool and had a mirror nearby. As well as drilling perpendicular, it’s also important in thread tapping. With the mirror next to the operation, it would show as an angle between the reflection and the tool. Easy to see when it’s square.
Some feedback: I bought one of the pricey Big Gator V-Drill guides several years ago. My was thinking that it had a lot of holes and it was solid metal, so it would be durable. Well, it is very durable, because I rarely use it! It is far too narrow, so it does not easily stay flat, AND it is far too slippery, so it wants to slide around. It basically demands a clamp to hold it in place! I regret that $30 purchase, and your video reminded me that I should probably just order the Milescraft!
Great item to use. Take it from me, (an old guy who has used such a thing for many decades) and hold block in-place with vise grips. Don't need to mare up the block with vise gripe too tight, but if the block spins, you'll be very happy you weren't holding it with just flesh.
Sighting a block is even easier when you center punch the spot, or drill a very shallow pilot hole on the spot. Then put the drill block through the drill bit that's on the drill. Then just put the drill on the center punch mark or the shallow pilot hole, while the drillblock is on the drill bit, the block drops onto the surface while the drill bit sits on the desired spot without moving, because it's in the pilot hole. If I want to be extra careful, I use a one-handed clamp to keep the block from moving. You do this without a pilot hole, just put the block on the drill bit that's on the drill, move the block back so you can see the tip of the bit, press the drill bit against the desired spot, then move the block onto the surface. Start drilling.
Drill blocks are great. I have that exact same drill block, and it is indeed my favorite tool for drilling straight. Having said that, these can have some issues. Sometimes you have to drill close to the edge of a piece of small piece of wood, and you cannot align the drill block perfectly while having the little rubber feet on all 4 corners sitting on the wood. Sometimes, the faces of your boards aren’t parallel, and drilling with the block on one face won’t give you a hole perpendicular to the other face. This is not uncommon on dimensional lumber- especially if it’s slightly crowned. 4x4s generally don’t have 4 perfectly square faces straight from the lumber yard. If the faces are significantly out of parallel, you might want to plane them a little to get them parallel, although for most rough framing, you can work around it without doing any special time-consuming prep. The same can be true when you’re using a speed square as a guide for your circular saw. Irregularities in the edge of a piece of lumber may result in cuts that aren’t square when you use a guide pressed against the edge of your piece of lumber.
For doing any dowel joinery (basically the main time I was concerned about things being perfectly straight), I found a drill block to be way too finicky (in particular the Milescraft one as that was what the hardware store sold). Most dowels go near the ends of boards, and sometimes it wasn't even possible to get the block to lay straight because of the odd wavey shape and partially hollow construction. I ended up building my own drill jig with drawer sliders; just so much faster and less hassle when you have to do a lot (also cost like $30 total).
I confess to a smidge of resentment for not having invented these simple, but oh so necessary little gadgets in my youth. Hopefully, whoever did is rolling in the green!
I also use a gob of modeling clay underneath a single bubble spirit level. You can align the chuck (with the 3 jaws retracted fully) with your surface and then adjust the level with the flexible clay underneath. Very accurate.
This is good…adding the Milescraft to my list. I do recommend the milescraft drill press for your drill. Makes no sense to for me to have a drill press, but needed to run some forstner bits for a one time project…was great.
Are you sure you’re using your power tools safely? Avoid the most common (and dangerous) mistakes! Get your FREE guide here 👉 bit.ly/10PowerToolMistakes
I know you have expanded and grown your business. But I have to tell you I really appreciate this type of content. I remember when you first started you had very practical content for guys like me who do not have fancy tools. We have a saw, drill , hammers and screw drivers and of course a carpenters knife and paint brushes. Thank you for this very helpful practical video.
You’re welcome, RK! Always happy to help 🙂
Amen!
Agree!
Another advantage of using something like this is that it teaches you what being perfectly vertical feels like with your drill. It can improve your free hand drilling.
*freehand Though I suppose one does drill with one's free hand.
@@fretbuzz59If someone wants to drill in their free hand, you can’t stop them with just grammar 🗿
I'm a retired CNC Machinist and although I didn't need something like this, what I did need on occasion was a tapping block. Same concept but just for starting a tap straight. Made quite a few for me and newbies that came into the shop and they were so surprised and impressed there was something like that around. Not sure how long these have been around but now that I don't have a huge machine to drill my holes, this will definitely be on my Christmas list. Thanks for all of your helpful videos. Happy Holidays to you and all that visit.
Drill blocks have been used in aviation manufacturing for decades to provide a true and straight hole for fastener installation.
I actually used the same one for drilling into tiles. The resistance and smoothness of the ceramic would often force the bit to drift without having a chance to get purchase. Because of the rubber on the bottom of the guide block, it stayed steady long enough to actually do its work.
Theres a simple Trick , Drilling into Ceramic Tiles , But you will have to watch ! My you Tube , if ever l decide to go Ahead with that !
I'm a senior female, I got one of these years ago. I noted that when I'd see others drilling, they'd appeared to be doing so at an angle, even did so myself. So invested in one of these myself. I love using it when needed ! Men folks don't expect me to know and have these little "do dads" on hand !😅😅😊
TIP for centering the drill block EXACTLY where you want to drill. Use an awl to make a small indentation where the center of your hole is to be. Using a small bit - maybe an 1/8", drill about 1/8" deep freehand. Now fit the bit that is the size of the hole you want to make. Slide the drill block over the bit and all the way up to the drill chuck. Now, while holding the drill block against the chuck, you can place the tip of the bit exactly into the pilot hole while keeping the drill as vertical as possible, then slide the block down to the surface of the work piece. Now, while holding the block firmly, if it is not completely seated flush on the work piece, adjust the drill until the block is completely flush to the work piece and now your bit is exactly perpendicular and you can drill to the desired depth. For large diameter holes just use this process starting with smaller diameter holes and work your way up to the final desired diameter. This ensures the location of your hole is dead center of where you want it!
@peterm2227 yeah that seems much more useful than them doing the exact same thing but drilling a pilot hole first. It’s probably also more precise to just start with the tip of the bit you will be drilling with than their method, it’s probably easier to centre the point of a drill on a mark rather then centring the tip of the drill bit in a hole. It’s much faster too to just use a single drill bit and not have to worry about changing bits.
@conorstewart2214 that's how you crack wood
Thanks, Mark.
I made about the same point (except for the awl) then saw yours. Guess I'll delete mine now.
just feed the drill bit all the way through the guideline up the point where you want it and hold it in place as you slide the guide back down to line it up straight. Then drill. Simples.
I got the same one when I wasn’t drilling straight for cornhole legs. Big difference for a novice like myself. You hit the best issues ALL OF THE TIME!!
I'm 49 and up until now, I didn't know these existed. What a simple and brilliant tool. Thank you!
Even better is a drill with integrated levels. That's why I'm still using my 1990's blue Ryobi drill. It has a horizontal level on top and a centering level on the back of the barrel, so both horizontal and vertical drilling is true. This no longer seems to be part of drill/drivers today, which is a huge oversight.
I glued a surface level to the butt end of my Makita, and it’s saved me a lot of time and trouble. Unfortunately there’s no room on top for a horizontal level.
I did the same but for this to work the piece has to rest on a perfectly level surface
I have that drill still and love the level. Unfortunately all my batteries are dead.
@@pazu8728 FYI, all Ryobi batteries fit all Ryobi tools, no matter how old.
You would think this would be cheap enough that all major drill manufacturing companies would design this into their drills. Unfortunately, EVERYTHING seems to be just getting to be more and more poorly designed pieces of shyte. I've been through 3 DeWalt impacts this year. The first one, I only drove 6 lag bolts with it before the bearing in the chuck broke so the driving bits fall out. This is a huge hassle. Especially if you're up on a ladder or scaffolding. The other 2 didn't last much longer. The FIRST 20V brushless DeWalt impact I had, when they first came out, lasted several YEARS before that bearing broke. I'm so sick of companies making everything cheaper and shittier but charging more and more money for their products.
Hold an old CD around the the place where you need to drill, the reflection clearlly shows the angle of your drill. Works a treat.
Great video. I’ve found that using my middle finger (instead of my index finger) on the trigger of the drill has significantly improved the accuracy (angle) of my drilling. Your index finger ends up along the side of the drill, pointing in the direction you want to drill. Give it a try!
Yep! This is a technique we used in building airplanes, along with using an "egg cup." It does exactly what you said.
Top notch video. Instead of trying to sight down through the hole, simply slide the drill bit through the appropriate sized hole of the block and then slide the block up to the chuck so that the drill bit is exposed through the bottom of the block. Now simply place the point of the bit onto the mark and allow the block to slide down the bit onto the work surface thus squaring up the bit to the surface.
25year carpenter, and this vid was great. I have never used one of these, and now I will be buying one tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!
Same here!
Fabulous! Prevents it from bouncing around as well.
Thanks, HC...this is terrific.
I haven't really been that interested in these, but seeing how easy it makes drilling into a pipe or at an angle might have sold me on it
Another tip I learned from Rex Krueger is to keep a 90° reference in your sight line while drilling or making a square cut. Just having the vertical edge there will make it easier to intuitively hold the drill vertically
I've been using one for years. Since I work with 6 different brands and sizes of drills/impact drivers, no two of them have the same feel. A drill block gives me consistent accuracy with all the drills I use.
Great tip , i worked in the aviation for over 35 years , way way back , we made our own using a drill press or having the machine shop make them. They definitely are practical , love watching your videos 👍 awesome stuff
I'd think to make my own but where am I going to find a block of steel that thick?
As someone who is brand new to the DIY world, these helpful tips are so useful. Thank you.
Milescraft is a great brand with lots of practical little gadgets. You should check them out.
I never knew something like this existed. Thanks for another very useful video!
Thanks Ethan. It looks so easy I have to get one! You're the best. 😊😊😊😊❤❤❤❤
2:57 really helpful. I’ve bought several of the items you show us as presents for my friends and relatives. Lots of workmen don’t know about a lot of these helpers.
I didn't know they had saddles to sit on the edge of lumber!! That's so cool!!
I could do dowel holes like that!
Thanks!
For dowel there is a tool that's almost the same idee as the one in the video but specifically made for connecting wood with dowel
Drill blocks of various styles have been used in aviation manufacturing for decades. It's critical the holes are straight for fastener installation.
This is a very useful tool and video. To mark where I want to start drilling, I usually use a nail-set to make an indentation, then place the block over the hole, the tip of the bit will settle into the indentation and allow me to find the exact center.
Never knew a tool like that even existed. Thanks Ethan for the heads-up. 👷🏿♂️
Sure thing, W! 😄
I'm a noob and horrible in the shop 😂 I like these simple suggestions. Worth their weight in gold 🥇
It's not a trick, it's a tool.
Tools do tricks. But yeah you have a point.
The click bait is real.
You’d think he’d show the “tool” in the thumbnail
☠️
I tell you
Made me click 😂
This!
Drill blocket are great but still a tool
I highly reccomend one of these drill blocks. SUPER cheap and super handy. I'm reaching for it in these situations often in our shop.
I’ve only just stumbled across your site. From an old(er) female, who was never taught anything more practical than how to put on lipstick straight, thank you, thank you, thank you! I’ve struggled getting anything straight, but this is such a simple solution. Now I’ll be searching your site for how hammer a nail straight - though this gadget might help with that too. Thank you so much again!
Happy to help, Marilyn! 😄
Amazing, thank you. I've been looking for something simple, quick and reliable. You answered all three!
Very timely video, I'm doing a lot of drilling and something like this will be a big help to me. Only downside is that now I have to buy another tool. Oh darn, oh heavens no, twist my arm.
twist twist twist (is it working yet?)
This is a great tip. And very timely. I have to drill some deep-ish holes into the edge of 3/4" MDF to mount some furniture leveling feet. In the past, my wife would 3D-print a single-hole drill guide for me; I had no idea these multi-hole guides existed. I like Kreg tools, so I bought a Kreg drill block. I can't wait to get started. Thanks for the video.
I've always struggled with this. I'm about to be putting some cabinet handles in and will definitely use a block like this to make sure my holes are straight all the way through!
You might want to get a cabinet hardware jig. Kreg has one for about $25.00 It allows you to set up where your holes are gonna be drilled on each cabinet, in relation to the edge of the door, so once you have it set up,you take the jig from one door to the next, clamp it on, make your holes and move on. Otherwise, you have to measure for each door, and you are bound to have a couple of them end up off a little bit.
I appreciate this vid so much, I have some personal prop projects and I was about to spend alot on an actual drill press, this short vid just saved me so much money
I could have used one of those blocks recently, but didn't know about them. Thanks for this tip for my future projects. 👍👍👍
This is why I like my old Ryobi drill with a bubble level in the back. I don't understand how this didn't become standard and in fact seem to have disappeared.
Because it is usable only when drilling to perfectly horizontal material?
@@trazalcatrazit actually has two bubbles. One for vertical and one for horizontal.
Very effective solution, especially for the ones who are not expert but curious for simple handwork. Thanks mate.
I happened across the milescraft block a few year ago and really liked it, great to know I'm not alone!
Although I'm originally from New Marske (1956-1981) I went to senior school in Marske by the Sea, back then it was called Bydales County Modern and I left in 1971. I met my first girlfriend in Marske Square and have spent many hours on the beach, it was even part of our school cross country course. This video brings back great memories. Thank you.
Great and simple inventions, these drillblocks! I've got a few of them, all of different make and with different additional features: the simpler, the better, though.
Don't look through the hole, but lift the block up to the Chuck, place the drillbit's tip in the exact location, bring the drill in a near square angle and only THEN press the block to the workpiece. Really, a child can do it.
Unreal Eric! I was not aware they even made drill blocks. Especially drilling at an angle, or the one with lines on the side.I appreciate your sharing, which adds to my gaining more knowledge and tools! 👍⚒🔧
I bought one a few years ago to ensure the holes I needed to drill through my front door to fix a door knocker which had to be spot on. It’s been really useful ever since.
That helps alot! I want to add adjustable shelves in the backs of some fairly deep cabinets. It's super awkward to reach in to drill the holes for the little shelf pegs.
Who said you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. lol
Learning new things from you pros all the time. Appreciate it a lot Ethan. Keep up the good work my man !!
Thank you Bill, will do! 😄
I had no idea these existed! Your channel is the gift that keeps on giving. Thank you!
thank you for showing me such a thing exists; i'm gonna check it out and buy one for myself ASAP!
Ethan years ago DeWalt use to have a 3/8 corded drill that had a level on the back of it for drilling straight but these days all the drills have gone away from that simplicity
You’re right Fred-a handful of models still being made today, but not by many companies!
You do it exactly the way I’ve done it for years, and I couldn’t agree more! I even have the same guide. Maybe the first video I didn’t learn something new from you, but the confirmation made me feel good! 😂 A bonus tip: If the guide thickness prevents drilling to the required depth, I sometimes use a longer, narrower bit to get the depth I want, then remove the guide and drill with the bit I need. Starting with that full-depth pilot hole makes it nearly impossible to drill the final hole skewed. (I could also buy a collection of long bits, but I don’t really need them.) FWIW, years ago I had one of those portable drill press guides, and it was dreadfully inaccurate. Thanks again, Ethan, for your content, which is always clear, to the point, and great advice.
Thank you, Phil! Great points 😄
I have numerous Milescraft products including the same drill block. They are definitely a company to check out for more affordable options for wood working. They may be cheaper than big names but they aren't cheap quality.
I needed an exact 90 degree hole a while back and ended up buying the Milescraft drill press you showed in the beginning. I had no idea they also did something called a drill block which achieved essentially the same thing. In fact, I had no idea drill blocks existed at all until this video!
Having said that, I needed to use a Forstner drill bit for that task so the block would not have been suitable there but I think I'll get a drill block too as it is lighter and easier to use for normal drilling. Thanks for the info!
1) I love that you came out and are endorsing a drill block/guide. These little guys don't get enough praise. I don't know if people are embarrassed to use it or think it's gimmicky, but it really does the trick. I guess that's why you're The Honest Carpenter!
2) AMATEUR-TIP: Instead of having to worry about sighting your drill mark through the hole, or using a center punch as other comments mentioned, I go with something even simpler, and I think more accurate:
Slide the drill block over your drill bit and slide it back towards the chuck before you go to drill. Put your drill bit down onto your drill mark, then slide the drill block down onto the wood. It makes sure your drill bit is where it's supposed to be without the drill block being in the way.
Disclaimer: This tip is definitely a bit late, and I admittedly only glanced over the first 30 or so comments to make sure it wasn't a duplicate, but I apologize if others have mentioned it already.
I use a mini level attached to the drill and the block that came with my dowelling rig, but I'll buy one if these too because tools are our friends 😁
Also, when drilling put most of the pressure on the end of the drill opposite the chuck....not on the pistol grip. You will break less drill bits that way especially in metal.
This is great! I've never seen anyone demonstrating a drill block and I appreciate the tip. Thanks!
Perfect for me. So many times without making a pre hole, with a nail, my drill would go in crooked. I saw this somewhere and though it’s just what I need. Thanks for showing how to use it.
Thank you. You solved a bunch of problems for me in just 3 minutes.
Ethan, I also use the Milescraft. Got it a couple of years ago and haven't felt the need to throw it at the cat yet. I didn't realize the ribs were line-up guides! 😂
I haven't seen the long, narrow one in stores around me, but I am interested because it includes more sizes. "Better to have it, and not need it, than to need it, and not have it! "
(Even if I get one, the cat'll still be safe from the Milescraft...)
The long skinny one is made by Big Gator. I have a couple and they're very nice, but I also have the Kreg version and use that one 99% of the time. It's lighter, cheaper, and plastic so it's one of those things you just quickly reach for because you know if you drop it it's not going to dent your project, and will bounce off of the floor.
@@joshdemarco9270 I thank you
This is the exact drill block that I have. There is a bit of wobble with it but overall I am happy with it.
I like it too, Alex!
WOW who could have guessed... a tool design for that is the way to go... WOOOOOWWWWW, BEST CHANEL EVER, it's not like I'm gonna ban it from my feed or something using the don't recommend channel on the options of youtube
I've been subscribed for a good while now, and THIS is exactly why! It's all these little hints and tidbits that make you a great resource for amateur me! Thanks a bunch!
Wow what a great, simple, and inexpensive idea! Thank you so much, I'm definitely going to get one!
I have one of those DrillBlocks. They work great when having to drill a quick perfect 90° hole.
Great idea. Think I’ll make my own using my drill press and a block of hardwood. Thanks for posting.
I'll share the advice I got from my college professor who happened to be a master wood craftsman from Switzerland. He described how he made sure that his tools were straight and true. Though I never saw it, and he never used power tools, he said that he marked parallel lines on his floors and walls perpendicular to his bench so that he could always sight bits and saw blades with the lines. This was in the '70s before all of today's expensive tools existed and, by the way, he taught Industrial Design;-)
I'm a fan of the Big Gator for its many hole sizes. I also try to mark with an awl or punch first, feed the drill bit through the drill guide hole, insert the drill bit tip into the hole, then slide the drill guide back down to be flush against the surface. Works wonders to drill holes perpendicular into joists for suspending ceiling storage racks or when using long drill bits.
Thanks. I've never even seen these before while browsing tool sections. Got you another sub.
I have that exact drill block & it works great plus stair stepping your drill bits is an excellent idea.
I glue a bubble level to my drill. For vertical holes, that works well, but obviously doesn't do much when you want a horizontal 90` hole.
You just genius and you are truly "the honest carpenter" ❤
I will definitely try this out. Have one on order. But one more observation I have, for overall drill control, is to use 12V tools instead of giant 18V or bigger tools. Compare the size, geometry, and balance of a Bosch 12V with the Dewalt 18V he shows in the intro. I have rarely run into a situation where I didn’t have enough power to complete a task with my PS31, and it is so much easier to handle.
I was once tapping a press tool and had a mirror nearby. As well as drilling perpendicular, it’s also important in thread tapping. With the mirror next to the operation, it would show as an angle between the reflection and the tool. Easy to see when it’s square.
I like the all metal Big Gator. Precise and comes with a plastic case
Instantly buying. No more wonky drill holes for me! 💪
A low-guilt purchase 😁👍
Get the Big Gator not Milescraft tho
This guy is the best. Very valuable information, knowledge and experience 🙏😁❤👍
Some feedback: I bought one of the pricey Big Gator V-Drill guides several years ago. My was thinking that it had a lot of holes and it was solid metal, so it would be durable. Well, it is very durable, because I rarely use it! It is far too narrow, so it does not easily stay flat, AND it is far too slippery, so it wants to slide around. It basically demands a clamp to hold it in place! I regret that $30 purchase, and your video reminded me that I should probably just order the Milescraft!
Many of us greatly appreciate your tips. Thank you.
Great item to use. Take it from me, (an old guy who has used such a thing for many decades) and hold block in-place with vise grips. Don't need to mare up the block with vise gripe too tight, but if the block spins, you'll be very happy you weren't holding it with just flesh.
Sighting a block is even easier when you center punch the spot, or drill a very shallow pilot hole on the spot. Then put the drill block through the drill bit that's on the drill. Then just put the drill on the center punch mark or the shallow pilot hole, while the drillblock is on the drill bit, the block drops onto the surface while the drill bit sits on the desired spot without moving, because it's in the pilot hole. If I want to be extra careful, I use a one-handed clamp to keep the block from moving.
You do this without a pilot hole, just put the block on the drill bit that's on the drill, move the block back so you can see the tip of the bit, press the drill bit against the desired spot, then move the block onto the surface. Start drilling.
This was a big help! Thanks for sharing this.
I never thought about this technique, but I should have. Thanks.
I've been using that milescraft for about 8 years now , hasn't let me down yet.
Drill blocks are great. I have that exact same drill block, and it is indeed my favorite tool for drilling straight.
Having said that, these can have some issues. Sometimes you have to drill close to the edge of a piece of small piece of wood, and you cannot align the drill block perfectly while having the little rubber feet on all 4 corners sitting on the wood.
Sometimes, the faces of your boards aren’t parallel, and drilling with the block on one face won’t give you a hole perpendicular to the other face. This is not uncommon on dimensional lumber- especially if it’s slightly crowned. 4x4s generally don’t have 4 perfectly square faces straight from the lumber yard.
If the faces are significantly out of parallel, you might want to plane them a little to get them parallel, although for most rough framing, you can work around it without doing any special time-consuming prep.
The same can be true when you’re using a speed square as a guide for your circular saw. Irregularities in the edge of a piece of lumber may result in cuts that aren’t square when you use a guide pressed against the edge of your piece of lumber.
I'm glad you're posting new content
Some say it’s a tool and not a trick. I say it doesn’t matter. I tried your advice and it works perfectly. Thank you 🙏
👍😁
For doing any dowel joinery (basically the main time I was concerned about things being perfectly straight), I found a drill block to be way too finicky (in particular the Milescraft one as that was what the hardware store sold). Most dowels go near the ends of boards, and sometimes it wasn't even possible to get the block to lay straight because of the odd wavey shape and partially hollow construction.
I ended up building my own drill jig with drawer sliders; just so much faster and less hassle when you have to do a lot (also cost like $30 total).
I confess to a smidge of resentment for not having invented these simple, but oh so necessary little gadgets in my youth. Hopefully, whoever did is rolling in the green!
Agreed, monkey! 😆
I always like your videos. They are well done and informative.
Oh man such a timesaver! Aff link used for the Kreg! I use Kreg for cabinets so it worked.
Hey, that’s a good trick. I would buy two and double them up on top of each other for added accuracy
Simple solutions are the best.
Preach brother! I have that steel Gator one, use it all the time. Couldn’t do without it, especially with my trust bradawl to start the hole
Good tips, SJH! I like the greater variety of diameters on that model 👍
I also use a gob of modeling clay underneath a single bubble spirit level. You can align the chuck (with the 3 jaws retracted fully) with your surface and then adjust the level with the flexible clay underneath. Very accurate.
Brilliant ! I wasn’t aware of these but will get one. Thank you.
This is good…adding the Milescraft to my list. I do recommend the milescraft drill press for your drill. Makes no sense to for me to have a drill press, but needed to run some forstner bits for a one time project…was great.
I agree -- The "Milescraft" style drill press is totally useful, however I think it has a use that is a little bit different than these drill blocks.
Very cool little tip!
Thanks for sharing this . I added it to my Christmas list !
Thank you for letting me know these things exist!! 😲 I'm barely a home handy person because I can't drill or saw straight 🤣
I didn't know that these existed. Years ago I made one out of steel for hand tapping. I imagine that the drill guides would work for taps too.
I love your content. These tips are such a great help. I am also in awe of how neat your shop is. 🤔