4 Ways to Prevent Stripped Screws
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2024
- Stripped screw heads are the worst! Discover these 4 techniques to avoid stripping screws and fasteners every time.
#strippedscrews #diy #screwed
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• DeWalt Screwdriver 40-Piece Bit Set, Impact Ready (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/LA9a2h
• Horusdy 208-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/fjeGe
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00:00 #1: Use the Proper Bit
03:15 #2: Line Up the Driver & Screw
03:53 #3: Apply Sufficient Force
05:10 #4: Tank Bond Liquid Grip - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
📦 PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO 📦
• DeWalt Screwdriver 40-Piece Bit Set, Impact Ready (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/LA9a2h
• Horusdy 208-Piece Screwdriver Bit Set (Paid Amazon Link): geni.us/fjeGe
• DAP Tank Bond Liquid Grip: bit.ly/3dHVPWK
The Amazon links above are affiliate links, which means you pay the same price as always but we make a small commission, which helps out our channel - so thanks!
Amazon links are not working...
It's like liquid sand. Learned something today.
Bad links.
Soap mould
PZ screws have PH obsolete around here.
That was probably the smoothest transition to a sponsor endorsement I've ever seen. Smoooooth.
That tank bond stuff really saved me on a hard to reach rapidly stripping screw. After several minutes of carefully driving this cabinet screw at an awkward angle, I stopped when I realized it was stripping, watched this video and went out and got this stuff, and finished the screw in about 30 seconds. I could have saved a bunch of time if I had this from the beginning. Thanks! Good stuff.
Probably the most important tip is to make sure your bit isn’t worn. Every time you let it slip you are wearing some of the bit off. Soon even the correct size bit will constantly slip. Replace them often. They are cheap
One of the best things I ever did tool wise is buying a 30 or 50 pack of assorted bits. Always easy to find the right one and no quibbles about tossing a bad one.
not usually the case in my experience except on the cheapest of bits, usually they are all much harder than a screw
Good tips. A few more... Drill the correct size pilot hole, especially in hard woods or when using small screws or soft metal screws like brass. Apply some wax to the threads before inserting, I keep an old candle nearby just for that purpose. Also, watch your speed when driving screws so you have more control when driving.
Good idea. It does work. Some kinds of wood, for example, give enormous friction.
Instead of wax, a bar of soap or a drop of liquid soap is also useful. soap will not interfere with subsequent painting or other type of finish.
@@janami-dharmam When I faced extremely hard and viscous wood, I naively sprinkled some WD-40 in predrilled holes, it was the first thing to come to my mind. It helped me. What do you think about it?
I drilled a large hole in the bottom end of my finish hammer handle. I fill this with bee's wax (toilet ring). Note: if you drill a small hole that intersects the end of the handle hole it will allow air to escape as you fill the bee's wax hole easier. This way I had wax at the ready for both nails or screws. In addition, I would melt some was and keep it in a tin in one of my tool boxes for either refilling my hammer handle or for poking screws into when needed.
@@OlTrailDog It's not a good idea to drill or embed anything into a hummer handle, it badly weakens it. This part should be solid and smoothly shaped as much as possible.
Pre-drilling is also a good tip.
Great point - I'm a huge fan of pre-drilling in general to avoid splits and cam out.
@@LRN2DIY True. I thought you would start from this tip.
Indeed. Also use a counter sink tool to hammer a few hits on it to start a tiny hole. This will guarantee your drill bit doesn't dance around the spot you want it to truly begin a new hole with. 😁
@@motoryzen "automatic center punch"
@@mr_killjoy4205 indeed. One name for it is a nail punch or nail setter.
My number one tip is to not use Philips heads in the first place.
Yea me to i bought the torx screws by accident lol once i tried them i nev buy phillips again
Based comment
Unfortunately most things you buy that contain screws - have Philips screws. I hate them!
@@Q..J.. You can find Torx in the same lengths as phillips.
@@DiligentDave1966 sweet!! Thanks for the info., checking them out now. 😊
Tank Bond is basically engine valve grinding/lapping compound. So, if your local auto parts store is close by, you can get that stuff too and it's identical. Valve lapping compound is used to grind away the valve and seat surface of a valve that is old and either pitted from heat or pitted from rust. It restores the full contact band needed to seal. It's basically liquid sandpaper. 👍
Thanks, I'm sure lapping compound is cheaper.
Nice tip. Can at a push use superglue and bicarbonate
@@michaelhutin5451 - No its not 🙂
@@harrycaul2494 Sodium Bicarb is quite soft. That doesn't make sense. Fine pumice or some Silicon carbide (SiC) powder/granules does.
PS The real problem is extracting 'stuck' screws, in that placement pressure helps drive it in, but fights pulling it out.
@@you2tooyou2too Bicarb just causes the superglue to harden very quickly. Makes sense if you want to glue the screw to your driver, but that's pretty unusual... maybe an option if you need to place a non-magnetic screw (like brass) in a tough-to-reach spot?
Excellent video. The Tank Bond idea is new to me. However, *torque* is specifically a turning or twisting force, not the downward pressure. Applying the downward pressure might help you to apply more torque, but the downward pressure is not torque.
I thought I bought the wrong kind of drill. I was using the wrong Phillips head, I had a pointy one and didn’t need it. Thank you! Teaching me things I shoulda learned a long time ago.
Good tips for north American soft wood, but if using Australian hard wood pre-drill. If the wood smokes when drilling add soap to thread. Also avoid cheap screws, like ones that came with hinges,etc. Cheers
You nailed it😄👍🏼 at times even drill bit struggles to get through the hard woods.
Thanks for the info on the DAP products, Nils.Very well organized!
I would suggest pre-drilling holes, especially in harder woods.
A wide rubber band works as good as the liquid grip and you can use it over and over again. If you’re driving tons of screws just keep a couple on you wrist. The best part they cost like 2 cents. 😁
Solid, thanks!
I just became a homeowner last July and I’ve started to dabble in DIY. I’ve made the mistake many times of stripping screws. Thanks for the video! You saved me some frustration!!
A few tips too...
Those black screws are hardened steel. They are really hard to strip, so I use them a lot more, but even the standard screws that do strip, I find using one of those impact driver helps a LOT more than drills. I think the impact action keeps the head seated into the screw and unlike drills won't just back out.
as in drywall screws? If so the downside is they are brittle and not as strong as construction screws.
Tank bond liquid grip is new to me ... I'm bout to order it
Me too.
It worked for me on 3 screws. They did not want to leave home.
Liquid grip seems to work the same as valve grinding compound. Thanks for the tip.
Wow! Never heard of tank bond. Thanks!
I've gone over to star head screws. Wind them in fast with my cordless impact wrench and rarely need pilot holes in soft woods.
Depending on the timber, I also drill a pilot hole to the inner diameter of the thread. I also apply beeswax to stop binding. This is a must if you are using brass screws.
Can you explain in more detail "drill a pilot hole to the inner diameter of the thread"
@@PR-bd1ky select a smaller diameter drill bit than the diameter of the screw you are using. Drill the hole first. Then place the screw in that hole and screw it in. It goes in much easier and also prevents the wood or deck material from splitting. You must use a smaller diameter drill bit otherwise the screw will have no material to bite into. The smallest bit that allows the screw to go in easier but still gets a good bite and hold into the material.
@@PR-bd1ky OK, use a drill that is the same size as the screw shank. So if the screw has a 3.00 mm shank then use a 3.00 mm diameter screw.
Drill- Packedge in typical box, came with a tool bag (added bonus), two batteries, one charger, drill, and driver. Two words "plenty of Torque" th-cam.com/users/postUgkxW1vOBRCMrgTCDEijzpVzDWsgI-Jm2iQv well I guess that's three. Nice upgrade from current setup. Has belt clips, I don't think I will be using those. Driver and drill were bigger than what I expected but it is an upgrade from the current setup. For the money I would say that this is a great setup for Professionals and DIY/Weekend warriors.
THIS! This is the kind of information I've been looking for! Thank you :)
Thank you so much. That's very helpful I wondered why those screws get stripped.
Bro you have a really great channel here. I just found you recently And wow you have so many informative videos. I already follow and watch a lot of tool and DIY related content but you but you have provided education in areas those channels havent. Thank you!
Excellent tips. Not knowing about Tank Bond Liquid Grip.
Wish I had watched this video before damaging a couple of screws. Thanks. 🙏
Wow, I'm glad to know about this too; I'll buy some now if I can find it!
Great info , thanks for sharing. Right to the point with no BS music or self promotion nonsense. Very informative and I learned a few things I didn’t know. Thanks again liked and sub
1:30 merch ad
Great tips for me: when on a ladder, using all of my 63 year old female upper body strenth, not easy to apply enough pressure! I like using Robertson screws.
Robertson screws are the best by far, but not well known in the states.
Robertson = square head
For GOD's sake, what are you doing on a ladder? Don't you feel that you are too old to be doing DIY using a ladder? When I was just a young boy, my mother taught me not to climb any higher than I could afford to fall.
@@outlet6989 I'm 69 years old I worked off a ladder (not too high I admit) to remove 60 feet of rotted fascia board as the contractor wanted $1500 to replace it. Five hours to remove gutters and tear down by myself. Six hours the next day for me and a handyman to paint and install new 2x8 fascia. Total cost for materials and paying handyman $425.
@@berniehayhurst1811 sure they are! Just called square drive here. Menards sells lots of them. Not Home Depot though. Don't know about Lowes.
I bought a product like that nearly 20 years ago from Sears, it was a paste with tiny carbide grit in it, and it works well. I also bought screwdrivers that have grit made on the bit, they also work very well.
Good info. I took a course in fasteners years ago when I was going to school for manufacturing engineering (never finished that degree, but got 2 in welding). My instructor was adamant that when the screw head was damaged it was “cammed out”, and “stripped out” referred to the threads being damaged.
That's accurate. I thought about using the term "cam out" but opted for "strip" since that's what more people know it by. I usually call it a stripped screw head too - I should probably start using the right term 😂
@@LRN2DIY Haha. I gave up years ago. Same thing with widescreen TVs. People call them 16 X 9, when in fact it’s an aspect ratio of 16 : 9. I just thought I’d throw it out there for the heck of it. 🤣
common language needed in the title to bring people here but agree probably the most obvious learning opportunity that was missed here and a great place to start "youve been saying it wrong the whole time kids!" that will get them to watch the rest of the video
@@LRN2DIY please use your influence to help correct this then. Explain the correct term so people don’t make this mistake forever.
@@LRN2DIYDo not change what you said. This person's instructor was completely incorrect. Both situations are "stripped out". To "cam out" has nothing whatsoever to do with damage to the fastener or material.
The short explanation: "Stripping out" material or a fastener is to remove material that engages a tool to the fastener or the fastener to the material. "Cam out" describes two components, intended to solidly move together when force is applied to one of the components, that slip because of an inability to retain proper position and alignment between the two. This can be by design or due to damage, but in the case of damage you haven't "cam'd out" the fastener or tool, you've stripped away material that creates a solid connection between them. In fact, if you completely strip the head of a cheap fastener, your tool won't cam out at all. It will simply spin in the empty space it drill out.
The long explanation:
By definition, "camming out" is when two objects that are designed to interact with force in one direction separate due to force in an off axis direction.
Fasteners such as bolts, screws, etc are typically designed for clockwise force to apply or install the fastener and counterclockwise to loosen or remove the fastener. On a graph this would be equal force in both the x and y axis. Any force in the z-axis will either assist in preventing cam out or cause it. A perfect marriage of tool, fastener, and material can still experience cam out without damage to any of the components. In a ratchet, the operating mechanism is a deliberate cam out of the stationary tooth. It slides over the rotary gear teeth in one direction while catching in the opposite direction.
"Stripping out" is absolutely caused by damage either to the fastener, the material, or the tool. To strip is to remove. In the case of materials, soft material or material that has become soft from rot or rust can be damaged by the threads of fastener, rounding out the entire hole to the outer diameter of the threads, thereby preventing them from securing the material. The threads of a fastener can be damaged and, consequently, also not engage the material to hold it in place. Stripping a fastener, as your entire video is about, is usually when a hardened or harder tool removes softer material from the head of the fastener. That isn't camming out! You've stripped The head of the fastener, removing material intended to engage the tool to the fastener. The slip is cam out. The damage that caused it is stripping out.
Ty for sharing tank bond will def try!
Still more: for decorative screws pre-drill and pre-thread the hole (using similar size strong screw).
Some advice I learned hard way, I was using wrong size bit thinking it was correct size but just poorly fitting. Example, the T25 and T27 are very close and can think the T25 is proper for the bolt even with a little wiggle room, but putting the next size up [T27] was totally perfect fit and no more slippage or rounding of fitting
Tank bond looks awesome
I was trying to remove a fairly small, but long Philips head screw with my drill. It was in an awkward location and I ended up stripping the head. An experienced carpenter got it out using an impact driver with a square head bit. Pretty amazing.
Never knew liquid grip existed 😮Jolly good video
Thank you for that tip. I am getting some DAP. I am learning a lot from your videos.
DAP is the company, not the product.
There are several videos showing the relatively new Makita impact xps bits. They seem to fit insanely well. If you absolutely must use phillips screws, I would recommend giving them a try.
I find the pozidrive no 2 will fit most pozi screws. However the Dewalt no 2 pozi i find a bit small. Torx are excellent as long as you use the RIGHT SIZE. Obvious i would have thought!
Hey just an fyi but the first part you may want to ch do out the difference between Philips tip vs Reed Prince. Different tip looks almost the same slight different thickness but also sharp tip vs blunted tip. Also tapping in a tip with a hammer to clean any rust or dirt and fit better helps. I use the replaceable tips for that. Don’t want to hammer on my screwdrivers.
Auto Tech.
Great to explanation and fixes😎👍
I use poly grip to get stubborn screws in and out. Can’t figure out why it smokes 😱
It's basically lapping compound, which along with its intended use, I've been using it for this purpose for years.
I would start with the fact that absolutely any drive can cam out, depending on the conditions. Thank you for the liquid grip idea, I did not know such a product.
use a rubber band on top of the screw, or better yet, DITCH the philips
i was totally unaware of that liquid grip stuff too, good sponsor!
Thank you
This video is awesome thank you so much for this video. I learnt so much from it. I had no idea there is a difference between Philips and the Pozidriv. Blew my mind. Next up - I'll watch your video about the 5 drill features (I don't know that one either).
A long time ago I switched over to hex head screws because stripped screw heads were too frequent. & used the 1/4 inch nut-setter that usually came with the drill or anything you bought for it.
I've watched a lot of TH-cam, and I've never instantly wanted the sponsor's product like I did after watching this video! 10/10 product placement 😅
Very interesting, I have never heard of liquid grip, will look out for it next time in shop, seems like a handy thing to have.
The DAP product looks really good. Thanks
Lowes first thing in the morning for Tank Liquid Bind Grip …thanks for the tips, great tutorial.
/Bklyn👑
Wow. Thanks a million!!
The DAP Tank Bond Liquid Grip was worth the price of admission! Didn't know about it.
I wished I watched that like 20 years ago, thank you man 👍
Thanks you for for tips 💯
Legend, great tips👏
From my experience, using a bit holder with a slide over sleeve helps a bunch........
Maybe I missed it, but pre-drilling the hole is probably the best tip I would give, especially on any sort of hard wood. It has the added bonus of preventing the wood from splitting / cracking.
Excellent bit of knowledge.
I've never heard of the tank bond. I'm ordering some right now
Very useful instructions, thanks.
I would suggest using a small ratchet set to ensure you get the best connection as it were. A cordless drill can sometimes be too much and using the correct clutch setting can really help. Never rush or hurry a job you are doing, take time to do it properly as you will get a better result.
Love that tank grip stuff i never seen that imma get me some that thank you
Thanks for sharing great advices greetings from Maryland USA you're awesome
I'll have to try out Tank Bond myself.
Great tips!
Well done!
I’m notorious for stripping out screw heads like that. Thank you for this.
The great discovery driving long, large, PH2 screws is to use the impact gun. With a conventional driver, you have to push more to keep the bit in when you need more torque. With the impact driver, after each hit, the bit relaxes and bottoms - you have to use a fraction of the push with an impact.
Cool thank you!
The second bit he tried at 1.22 was a pozidrive not a phillips. You could tell by the flutes between the 'leaves'
I am Canadian and I use Robertson screws. When I come across a Phillips, Which is often as the US has never heard of a Robertson, I replace it.
Great video as always but Tank Bond is incredibly expensive in UK $25! Love your stuff, Nils.
Thanks for this. Good video.
Tnx for ur useful guidances.
Very helpful 🤘🏼💯
Scratch the screw threads to a candle (or wax). It will help a lot with the friction and making it easy to drive it down.
Doesnt this make the wood joints slippery when the wood gets hot?
I always use an old bar of soap to lubrlcate screw threads.
@@berniehayhurst1811 that's what my grandfather taught me to do. Great tip.
I am in Canada, where we mostly use the square Robertson. I have never had a problem with those, yet many people refused to use them. What are your thoughts on this?
Hi Ontario here......yes we have the best,
I'm in USA we call them square drive and i totally agree they're the best.
This is excellent.
Nice. Love that Tank Bond
Excelente información, muy buen detalle y práctico.
I've also heard that most of the cheap no-name Philips bits are not designed for impact driving. The Big Name bits with the color tape on the neck are the ones to use. Thanks for the tip on Tank Bond. Ordered sometoday.
That's why you purchase impact bits for the impact driver. Or regular bits for a non impact tool.
Thanks so much
My preference is Torx. The heads have many more points to grab.
Thanks a lot for this good video
Thanks!
Start large to small, not small to large to get the best matched hex/torx bit. If the head has a Phillips and a hex head, rather drive it with a nut setter. With slotted heads, use a bit that's the same width as the slot. A Phillips bit will fit in a Pozidriv screw head, but a Pozidriv bit does not properly fit in a Phillips screw head, so rather keep your Phillips bit as your default, unless you make the effort to inspect the head. You get a tighter fit when screwing two pieces of lumber together if you pre-drill the first piece...or use the correct screw with a bare shank below the head. Use washers in high torque situations or fixing thin/soft material. Zig-zag multiple screws in wood to reduce splitting. You can never have enough screwdrivers or bits.
It's the other way around. A pz-bit will do ok on a ph-screw, but a ph-bit should never be used on a pz-screw. The PH is design to not overtorque the screw, and therfore it's easy to strip.
Nice video. do you have a video on how to make the right size pilot hole?
Thanks
cant believe the quality of fasteners and the metal on metal dynamics between bit and fastener wasnt discussed
I cam here hoping to learn a few basic pointers about that, as from experience buying higher quality fasteners and bits has made the biggest difference for me
aside from learning how to properly use the torque settings on my drill
it's a whole year later I honestly think you could re-release a much updated version of this video with some key basic information thats missing
then you can link to your video about how to REMOVE stripped screws lol
I am just a hobbyist
Sounds like you already know the basic pointers you "cam" here looking for 😂
Why don't you just enlighten folks in the comments rather than solicit free labor from the content creator you're already gleaning free content from? 🤔💭
Fantastic video!
Good tips for a beginner.
It took me years to finally come find this information
Good video, but to those that are doing all the above correctly, it would be wise to check your drill’s torque and clutch settings
Plus ensure you've got it on 'screwdriver' mode, not 'drill'. The screwdriver mode is designed to allow more leeway WRT excess applied torque; drill mode just locks torque to max
@@snafu2350 "WRT"
wut
@@samhain9394 "With regards to.."
@@snafu2350 ohhhh youre a zoomer, okay.
@@samhain9394 'zoomer'??
Never knew Tank Bond existed!
Good advise
Great video, thanks so much really does help and correct the things I have been doing wrong. I am not a DIY guy, so this really does me 😁🤣😅
thanks 👍
Thanks 🙏
great video thank you
What is the manual screwdriver at 4:25 in section 3 please?