01M Rebuild
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- 1999 Volkswagen Jetta Front end play: .5-1.2mm (.019-.047), Rear end play: .23-.37mm (.009-.014), B1: 1.25-1.55mm (.047-.065), B2: 1.78-1.93mm (.070-.076), K1: 1.52-1.90mm (.060-.075), K2: 1.78-2.03 (.070-.080), K3: .254-.304mm per friction (.010-.012)
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransm...
Transtar: www.transtar1....
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fi...
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Спасибо за видео!
Thanks for watching!
Are those plastic breather tubes that stick out serviceable/replaceable? I didn't see you installing them in the video and I can't find any information on them online anywhere. I may have marred up the one trying to remove the vehicle speed sensor that's next to it (on the differential) and am looking for options should I need to do anything with it.
1:11:30 Is there a special wrench to unscrew this differential bearing housing? Doesn't work with a regular screwdriver.
Yes there is. VAG3155. I do not have it. I use a flat blade screwdriver about 8" long. Does get hard to turn.
Great Video Tom! Definitely best one out there on the 01M.
Thank you. Thanks for watching.
Do you do customer work or only make youtube videos? I have a 01m with 240k id like to get rebuilt...can you recommend anybody in or near Arizona?
Go here to find a shop near you. atra.com/ShopFinder
When replacing clutches, should they be lubricated first? Or are they installed without lubrication?
You can do it either way. I get this question all the time. Never seen a difference either way. So if you feel the need, do it.
Love the video super informative but i just learned how to not do it special tools are special tools an no expense can be spared to have to crack it open again
Amen
Hello, after assembling and replacing all the internals, it has a jerk when going from second to third gear, any idea what it could be and what I should check?
Valve bodies are a problem on these units and can cause that. After the rebuild did you clear codes and reset the adaptives? Even if it says no codes stored.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I replaced the valve body, but it did not restore the values, I will try that
@@CurmudgeonTransmission th-cam.com/users/shortsW9cqVhpCGhQ?si=7Zv-Th6QkRODEXcF
It's normal?
Ive got a 2002 Volkswagen beetle gls 1.9l Alh with the 01M 4 speed automatic and i have check the trans code yet but will soon. Car have 322k miles previous owner lacked maintenance alot and keep blowing turbos due to not changing oil regularly and i bought this vehicle of the owners father as he decided to buy her a pos beather to abuse instead of a really good tdi that can be costly. Anyhow i got it when it had 284k miles and replaced the turbo but then had issues with the trans shifting late and delayed and would shift hard as well. I flushed the trans, change out filer with new and gave it the correct clean trans fluid vw recommended and it worked perfectly fine afterwards and did for several thousands of miles. I just rolled over 321k and 2 weeks ago reverse dropped out and not sure why as it worked that evening the day before with no issues. I continued to not have reverse at its full potential and it would mive but really struggled and i had to feather the fuel pedal like i was driving a manual to get it to move 5-10ft before it would no longer moved anymore in reverse. I checked trans fluid and is was very dark brown with a slight reddish color and its smelled awful. I assume clutch plate material???? Now lowest gear 1 is start to gradually go out as well but still working without being a concern. All other gears work perfectly fine. Also i have a torque converter lockup code that stays active and comes back immediately after clearing the code. This trans mission has never been rebuilt and it seen its first trans flush since it left factory at 284k miles. Im surprised this 01M trans lasted 321k miles with the poor maintenance done on the trans, what would you suggest id need to do here as im on a tight budget and plan on rebuilding it myself and have ila budget of $500. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Definitely time for a rebuild.I would be surprised if you can get everything you will need for 500. The valve body will be worn out. You only have 2 options , well 3, for it. New, rebuilt or ream the bores yourself. You will not get all the reamers for nowhere near 500. Plus you will need the jig for them. Your cheapest options will be new or rebuilt. Do yourself a favor and get a Freudenberg Nok kit for it with clutches and pistons. Bare minimum you will need the kit, filter, bushing kit, valve body and torque converter.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I was pretty sure I'd have to look at getting my trans rebuilt but with it being an 01M I may look at saving up to do a manual swap and I'll use this trans till it finally starts having issues. I still drive it daily without any issues in drive but reverse it Definitely gone.
Does anyone know the part no or name of the shaft installer????
VW295 & 30-204. Assuming you are talking about the pinion shaft.
How many liters of oil do you get on the first fill?
Somewhere around 5.3 on the trans and .75 on the diff.
Thanks to b so good man I learn alot w you👍
Glad I could help.
I rebuilt the transmission, when it goes from third gear to fourth gear, it goes up around 200-300rpm, once fourth gear is engaged it accelerates and does not skid, check the oil and there is no sign of wear or burning, what could it be?
You may have a clutch clearance or valve body problem. Did you reset the adaptives with a scan tool?
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionYes, I restored it, but I think the problem may be in the oil pressure. In my inexperience, I completely disassembled the valve body. I didn't know that it included an oil pressure regulator. I simply reassembled that valve without any verification. I think it may be there. If the problem is, I will measure the oil pressure and see, I understand that in idle mode D, it should read approximately 60PSI.
Correct
Hi, how much torque it can handle ?
Not sure. Best I could find is somewhere around 230-275 ft. lbs.
Great video Tom. 03 tdi 01m. At 45-55mph at times come off the gas trans neutrals out as in drops to idle speed on coastdown, if I press gas, engine revs up to "connect' again and all good. If I come to a stop or slow down (trans may drop to 3rd gear issue may not happen again for a while) and go up to speed all is fine again until it randomly does it again. One other issue after overnight parking trans is slow to engage D or R but does if I wait 5 secs to engage. Car is in FL , I run a 25k external trans cooler and replace trans oil every 30k.
Thanks. It would really help on this one to know if there are any codes stored in the system. Even if the light is not on it does not mean there are no codes. Sounds like you at the minimum have a worn out valve body.
1:11:11 Is there a name and/or part number for that and the O-ring?
Diff bearing retainer. 75724A No listing for the o-ring. They do show it with number 343 but do not list it in the part numbers. This is WIT numbers. Link in the description.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you. Having the same result of 343 and 481 on some diagrams. Will likely have to get an entire resealing kit.
Ive got a 01m gearbox with two solenoids with high resistance. One measure 145ohm, the other measures 174. I guess those solenoids likely wont work?
Correct. they should all be 55-65 ohms except EV-4 & EV-6 4.5-5.1 ohms. If you are checking them through the ribbon cable you may have a bad cable. They are terrible about breakage. Replace it with one from Teckpak Fitzall or Rostra.
57:34 I have been putting the trans-go repair kit in these, it replaces the pressure regulator valve with a new valve that has a sealing ring on it and for all the ones I’ve taken apart that’s the biggest problem the other valves and bores seem to be ok. The o-rings on that plastic reverse feed tube are some weird ass size! I have 4 different big o-ring kits and none of them are the same exact size I have one that’s very close but just a little thinner and after a week they will flatten out because they are a little thinner and start leaking and delay in reverse. I can’t find them o-rings anywhere tried the dealer, transtar. I assume they probably come in a rebuild kit. I own a repair shop and I do transmission work here and there I haven’t rebuilt one of these yet but I am gonna try soon they don’t seem very difficult.
I have the reamers for the Sonnax valves so I put the zip kit in. The PR & TCC valves wear the most but there are others that are usually somewhat worn. Would it work, probably. But I just put the whole kit in. Yes they are. Also made from a special material to keep from shrinking. Don't remember the name at the moment. I will see if there is a part number for them from the dealer later.
Hi Tom, Thanks for all the video. I am helping my friend rebuild his 01P. Are the 01P and 01M very similar? What is the trick to separating the case (transmission from the drivetrain) ?? Are there special tools needed to separate it? Do you have any video of the tear down? Thanks for any of your help.
Sorry. No I don't have a tear down video. Yes the 01M, 01N & 01P are pretty much identical. Yes you will need special tools to do the rest of the unit. There is no need to take the rest of the unit apart unless the pinion seal is leaking and/or you had planetary damage. I made my own tools. The pinion race tool is made from a socket that I bought from Sears and took it to a machinist I knew at the time and had him cut the reliefs I needed. Added some muffler tube from the shop that was next door. And welded a nut to the top of that. Some of them can be a pure pain to get out of the case. I am sure the factory tool would be much better but I don't do enough of them to warrant buying the tool. For the ring gear in the back of the case I found a nut that fit in the rear of it. Believe it was 17mm. Then found a bolt that fit it and welded the nut to it. Used that as a socket.
Thanks so much for your quick reply. Your help is very appreciated. Hopefully with the book we can wing it with the tear down. This video will be very helpful with assembly. Again, thanks for your time. @@CurmudgeonTransmission
Hi Tom, great video, are you still answering people's problems ?
If I have the answer. What you got?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission vw t4 2.5tdi. External cooler fitted with roughly 100 000 miles on a recon box. One day after a fast take off it went into limp mode with a g68 code. It was cleared and the sensor changed. I then changed the oil for the correct oil. All was good for 300 miles. Suddenly out of nowhere it judders very badly between first and second, second and third slightly and thumps a bit into drive when the brake pedal is released. I have changed valve bodies, swapped solinoids around and changed tcms and done the rebuild kit for the valve body with no difference noticed. It feels like first gear doesn't really properly engage from take off because when I slow down and it goes back down to first and I pull away again first to second is smooth as silk. Sometimes I imagine when the weather is damp the gear changes seem better. All other gear changes work really well including lock up. It is mainly first to second seems to let go off first then slam into second. It is better if I floor it. I am beginning to think it may be wiring and the tcms think it is going in smooth if you know what I mean. No codes showing
Just to add, I don't know what actually disengages drive when I put my foot on the brake, whether it is torque convertor or gearbox but on the odd occasion it doesn't disengage, I can feel it still pulling, I don't know if it is relevant. Thanks Dave
I am assuming those were used vb's and tcm's? Who's vb kit did you use?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission yes used vb and tcms but they behaved the same as each other. It was the transgo shift kit. Vb were carefully torqued up, not over tightened.
Спасибо 👍
Thanks
Can i tell you some questions? Pls
Ask away. Most answers are valve body or computer, but let's see what you got.
Be as detailed as possible.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission can we write on what's app please or instagram? My english is not really good and there i can use translate 😅 i can Write my number here und delete it in 10 minutes
@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok i write here, so when the car is cold, and you go in reverse the car goes out. But when it is warm, you can drive backwards. And when you drive, the car vibrates and is slow. It is a 98 Golf 4 2.3 vr5 01M. I think it is the clutch in the converter. And in oil is shavings. So please help me 😊
@@drivecoolvorhermarcel6730 Sounds like the torque converter is coming apart and sticking the lock up valve in the valve body. The lock up solenoid is closest to the manual valve on the side that has several solenoids. If this is the case, if it was mine I would do a rebuild with clutches. Depending on mileage would consider putting pistons in it also. Replace that ribbon cable for the solenoids with one from Rostra. Clean and free up the valve and replace the solenoid at a minimum. Valve bodies are highly prone to wear and unless you have the reamers you would have to purchase a rebuilt one. Sonnax sells them. I know in some countries it is hard to come by parts and this is not a cheap unit to fix. Make damn sure that your torque converter code matches with the one they send you, don't let them tell you it will work because it won't and you will be fighting problems until you put the proper one in. The stamp will be on the side of the rear cover of the torque converter usually something like QCDB or something similar, Find that code and make sure the one they send it is the same.
Great video, the camera’s angle could have been better.
Thanks. Yeah, I have since moved it closer. As close as I can without a camera man. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! Great Video. During rebuild I had to replace the ATF pump, (01M FDC) Can I ask how you determine what shim to use for K1, K2 end play adjustment, or if there is a method for doing this without the VW tool designed for this? I assume I can make my own tool by copying theirs to measure excess space but is there supposed to be any free space or is the shim width designed to make it tight together? Thanks!
Clearance is .019-.047 or .5mm-1.2mm, I use a universal h-gauge to check mine. If your unfamiliar with what that is watch the C-6 rebuild @ the 53:46 mark. I measure off the top of the k2 drum and where the washer rides off the pump, book has you do it a little different. The shims for adjusting that are the green washers on top of the k1, come with 1-3 washers, most have 2.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for the quick reply!!
Finally : I found a 01m auto transmission information on the output shaft/flange bearing and seal repair, I have noise in the front GROWLING SOUND probably just a wheel bearing but there is NO play in the bearings or the axles { my paranoia says it's a inner diff bearing } your video shows you can snug/adjust the bearing cup/race And now I know how to take that apart and replace the diff bearings if need be , I have a 03 Jetta Wagon 01m auto with a 1.9 tdi with 631 k and counting Thanks 🙂
Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Further watching your video you say there are 2 vent plugs ,I then see there is gear oil in the dif section , for about 8 years of driving and changing the trans oil and filter about 5 times never have I known about the gear oil ! , I have not checked or driven the car since this post But I would no say I have a low oil in the diff and a possible bearing problem. I have always thought the trans oil went though everything , I have some work to do. now try and find parts for a 21 year old car
@@Murray-e4f that issue has been the fate of many cars with this trans just picked up an 05 beetle with a waisted diff @80k miles because of this.
@@Troysbuildsnlife I picked up another 03 VWW Volkswagen wagon! last fall with380k so I checked the rear dif and it took 3/4 liter 70/90 gear oil also, it sure looks like everyone thinks the tranny oil fills that up at the same time, I had drove my car for 8 years before I found the vent and drain plug .looked on y/t how to fill, the noise was thankfully just wheel bearings now @ 638k #4 intake lifter failed waiting for cam lifter and bearing kit, VWW 45-50 m/g you can't afford not to fix them
Thanks for this video your amazing man
Thanks, and thanks for watching.
Pretty much done, thanks! When you bolt down the stator and oil pump with the 7 pan head bolts, is it held up nearly 1/2" by spring pressure from the 3 springs and the clutch pack below it until bolted into the case? ( Where you say " tighten carefully as you can break the springs").
Thanks.
Yes, it is held up by the springs. You won't break the springs, what you might break will be the sealing rings. Push down on the pump with one hand and if you have a speed handle start tightening the bolts down with the other hand. If you don't have a speed handle a ratchet will do, but tighten it by hand so you can feel if the rings break. Usually you can feel it.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks again! Yes, I was a bit concerned because i did not realize from the video how much the springs hold the stator/oil pump up, I took every bit out and started again as I thoughts something had not seated. After it was all the same again, I started measuring and found that when the stator was tightened down there was still over a mm of space in the clutch pack after those 3 springs were compressed. That seems like a reasonable space and per your instructions, I tightened by hand and I didn't feel any breakage.
@@PeteDunn154 You're welcome, hope it works well. After massive searching I found the specs for this unit. It is amazing how hard it is to find some of this information. You would think it would be important information to put in repair manuals. Any how I am posting it in the description. Congratulations on your build.
Thank you so much for this video. I have a 93 EuroVan with a 098 transmission. I sold the van a while back and bought back after he started experiencing forward gear slipping. Reverse works fine, but is in limp mode. Was able to drive this way, but only in "1", no other gear selections worked. Once going about 35 or so, "D" would also engage, but stuck in 3rd still. Right now after the list of things I show hereafter, it is no longer working in any forward gear. The only code showing at last check was 00652 (only showed up after the 35-40 MPH test drive, no other time), so that is where you will see items I attempted to address this code. I 100% have VW trans fluid, etc. That pan has been off probably 5x during this process :-)
Long story short, it definitely started as electrical issue with the connector cable to the transmission. I think the guy drove it pretty hard to get it back to his place before I picked it up and only had reverse at that time. I changed ribbon cable and rebuilt the connector cable and was able to eliminate every code. At this point, was only getting one solenoid code, but oddly enough, I could drive it as longs as I started in "1" and manually shifted. Kinda strange, because I never got it to this stage again, and this was before changing the TCM, which was definitely compromised with a burn spot.
I have VAGCOM, and was able to go thru each item one by one and have solid continuity, connection, and have replaced TCM as original issue fried the original one. I have replaced all solenoids, and have removed the valve body (trying to address 00652 code) and did a ultrasonic cleaning. No change. I also have a donor van nearby (what are the chances) that I took a valve body from as well, did an ultrasonic cleaning on it as well, and I have the same issue now, except now I have no forward gears. Between the 2 attempts on the valve body, figured I would attempt using Lucas anti-slip, just to see if it helped, and no change. I am fearing the transmission is dead at this point, not sure what else to try.
I believe you have internal damage. Those things are bad about valve body wear. So, it would not surprise me if it is worn out also, but to have no forward still. I think the damage has been done. Neutral switches are bad also.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you much
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Where is your shop? Problem in Hawaii is finding anyone who can rebuild. I am considering shipping it out to have it rebuilt.
Sorry, there is a multitude of reasons I don't give that info out. Go here, I found one in Kilo and one Kona. www.atra.com/ShopFinder
Hi dear. Goog video. I have question regarding 096 automatic transmission. When the car the transmission working good. But in warm time from 1 shift isn't changenging in 2 shift
Thanks. Is the check engine light on? If so there are codes in the system, would need to know what those codes are.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for reply. Check engine light off.
@@khachaturdashyan8081 There are a lot of things that can keep it from shifting. It would need a scan tool showing data and then determine if anything is off since you have no codes to help narrow it down.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Any way. I checked the colour of oil, its have dark particules and smell isn't good. So I decided to disassemble. Just i dismounted from car. Did you have special manuals for such kind of transmission repairing?
@@khachaturdashyan8081 Visit ATRA or ATSG website and they should have one in the bookstore. www.atsg.us/atsg/catalog/category/view/s/new-releases/id/3/ members.atra.com/store
Buen trabajo tom felicidades y muchas gracias por ensenar lo que sabes
Thanks for watching.
Gracias las que te adornan Tere .
Very Good.
Thanks
Здравствуйте напишите размеры ключа для гайки вторичного вала
If you are talking about the one holding the transfer gear, I don't remember and the book does not say. If you are talking about the one that holds in the pinion AST tool #3183A.
Спасибо за ответ можно ещё узнать номер подшипника вторичного вала который вы в начале затягивает пневмо
На 5 минуте видео
I do not have that info. Either call the dealership or get it off the old bearing.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission спасибо большое
Tom, question;. After all my attempts at rebuilding the 01M it has No forward drive gears, Reverse works fine. ATF pressure from port shows what I think is close to correct pressures,
P=46psi cold, similar warm. Shifting to R flashed to 150/160 then settled at 65psi. N= 65psi D=53ps1, up to 120 at 3000rmp, #= 53psi, 2= 53psi, 2=53psi There is a slight tic of the pressure needle when shifted from 2-1 but nothing at all into Drive, 3 or 2. I have a ross-tech VCDS, I did a scan and it showed no trans codes, perhaps it just needs more running.
I had no idea how much to screw in the Valve body springs on any that were adjustable so that's why I tested the line pressure.
Thanks again! Pete
Did you replace the pistons? May be a cracked K1 piston. Do not screw that plug in, it is set at the factory. I can get you the measurement if you want to check it, but if nobody has been into the unit before it should be fine. I will check what the pressures should be in the morning.
Reverse is not working in my unit all of a sudden. Was working okay two days ago. Now I really have to plan my trips haha. What is the first thing I should have a look at? Thanks
You need to scan the system for codes.
Thanks for taking the time to find those specs. Glad to see mine is within most and very close in the other.
No problem 👍