FINALLY!! A detailed verbal AND visual explanation for how to find TDC on cylinder #1. Thank you for explaining not only that/how you need to find TDC on cylinder #1, but also that the same procedure needs to be followed for each cylinder in the firing order. I also like how you showed all of the places to put assembly lube. You just saved me a TON of frustration. Thank you!!
A tip for the timing marks, use a white paint pen or even just liquid white out to mark the timing cover mark, the zero degree mark on your balancer and exact degree mark of BTDC you’ll be adjusting to. The strobe on the timing light will make the marks pop visually.
Thank you for this video. This head gasket job is incredibly simple, but it's the small details that matter. Make sure each cyl is at TDC compression stroke when torquing the push rod caps down for each respective cyl. I was looking for torque specs/sequence for an hour before I found this video. Thanks again!
Just replaced my head a month ago on my 2000 XJ and wasn't sure TDC for reinstalling valvetrain was neccessary or not. Did a ton of research, including calling 2 dealerships to talk to their mechanics, as well as an indy, and sourcing the factory service manual, and all was conclusive that TDC for reinstall is not necessary as it's a self-correcting system with no need to adjust for valve lash. Just carefully tighten each cap screw to 21-22 ft/lb while alternating per cylinder and you're set. I have had no issues since doing it that way, tho I did start cylinder 1 at TDC at least. Though it absolutely doesn't hurt to work at TDC for each cylinder, for those wondering, it's not necessary.
Yeah, I wondered too. The only advantage I see is both push rods being the same height, not giving a funny angle on the bridge while trying to torque both sides the same. I went through and made sure each bridge was level though. May not be necessary though..
@@JeepSolid That makes the most sense and better to play it safe. Whoever rebuilt my engine previously way over-torqued the cap screws so I bent every single bridge taking them off, but a bit of assembly lube and a properly calibrated torque wrench and they went in no problem; nice and straight. Didn't see it in the video, did you make sure the journals/channels in the pivots align with the same orientation in your rocker arms? Nice job with the rebuild, that engine looks great, some of your earlier videos helped me with my rebuild.
their is only one thing i would have done different. i would have primed the oil system before putting on the valve cover. pretty much ever rebuilder does it just to make sure everything is oiling like it's suppose to. you can still do it and it also lets you see what kind of oil pressure your going to be running once you have it all done. by putting an oil pressure gauge in it. i'm enjoying the rebuild. glad to see i wasn't the only person to have a tight cam when i got it in the last jurnal.
Yeah. I plan on manually priming the oiling system after the engine is installed. Pull the distributor and prime with drill method. May be another month before I get to that point, so I was gonna wait a bit. Thanks for following along!
Thank you for your input here regarding tdc find and correct rocker arm install. Im in my diy project; My wifes 93 grand cherokee got a new head gasket and ss exaust... almost back up and running! (c-:
This is an awesome video, I recently did mine with everything seeming ok but 100 miles later I have a collapse lifter on Cyl 2...not sure to call it a faulty lifter or maybe I did something? would love your input
Hey there Jeepsolid, i recently had a head replacement on my tj and i’m getting a very very small coolant leak though the bolt that is horizontal to the bolt #11, probably they forgot to put sealant on it. My question is: can I remove bolt 11 to put sealant without draining the coolant?
Hi Dale, Please like to answer a question about the 4.0l engine, It is normal for the engine gasket not to have all holes, as the engine block and cylinder head have. Is it normal for the engine gasket to have only six holes? and block the other existing holes between the block and the engine head I ask, for the circulation of the coolant Thanks in advance for your help Excellent video, of great help
Do you have a link to the manual and torque wrench you used for this whole rebuild process? Currently in the middle of a 2000 Jeep XJ 4.0 rebuild and am finally getting her rebuilt! Thanks for the awesome videos!
Hi Dale, just been offered a jeep 4.0 head 7120 but it has been machined to removed 0.039" or 1.00 mm to raise compression .Will this affect cylinder head gasket choice l should use,and maybe backlash settings on hyd tappet setting?
thanks for your videos Dale Super helpful, I'm installing a new head, first time, so when I cycle the valves to get TDC I have to do that before I torque each bolt on the rocker bridge bolts? is that right!
I've gone with the advice of, you can reuse the head bolts once, and never had any issue with that. Some will disagree and say your vehicle will blow up and be totaled if you do that... bottom line, there may be a bit more risk reusing, so you have to weigh the risk/benefit/cost
Nice work, had a quick question for you I own a 91 jeep cherokee and it's burning oil while underload comp test was very odd 128 dry 210 wet.... Do you think I need to change l the piston rings and re seat the values what you think?
Look up the normal compression range for your engine. On the inline 6, I believe it's 120-150 range. If your dry test is normal, your compression should be fine. Also, depends on how many miles on the engine. If your high mile range, most likely you are getting some loss through the rings and valves.
I don't have a set mileage in mind. These engines can run forever.... 200,000... 300,000 miles, no problem. They just slowly lose their efficiency. Slow compression or oil leaking gets worse..
Honestly; if your valvetrain is noisy, just replace your springs, lifters & caps. Pushrods even while you're at it. The parts to do it are dirt cheap on RockAuto. You'll be doing the same amount of access work to get to the bolts that you'd be tightening that you might as well replace them.
3 ปีที่แล้ว
@@TheOceanX Thanks. We actually checked the tolerances and fit of all parts and they were in excellent condition. I have concluded that the noise I have is the regular noise of the 4.0 and it's only particularly noticeable with a cold engine.
Please please please, if reusing headbolts, measure their lengths to ensure they are not stretched beyond specification. If the engine has ever over heated or had been revved too high on many occasions, the bolts WILL stretch. The stretch reduces the yield strength thus making the bolts more likely to stretch more once torqued again. It's always cheap insurance to spend the $20-30 for a new set of stock head bolts. No need for anything fancy, even when building a stroker. The stock bolts are plenty strong. This is another reason these motors can take so much abuse.
Hey Dale, when you torqued them to 45 ft. Lb, it looked like you switched to a digital torque wrench. What brand? And how do you like it? Also, some people put red Loctite, instead of oil, on the head bolts. What are your thoughts on that?
It's a digital Craftsman wrench. Works well. Its listed in my description. Guidelines don't recommend lock tight. I don't think its necessary and could cause future issues if rebuilt again..
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j_uNYbUiASg/mqdefault.jpg)
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
FINALLY!! A detailed verbal AND visual explanation for how to find TDC on cylinder #1. Thank you for explaining not only that/how you need to find TDC on cylinder #1, but also that the same procedure needs to be followed for each cylinder in the firing order. I also like how you showed all of the places to put assembly lube. You just saved me a TON of frustration. Thank you!!
I am 17 and doing a head gasket on my Cherokee and this video help me out alot.thank u so much. Keep up the work
A tip for the timing marks, use a white paint pen or even just liquid white out to mark the timing cover mark, the zero degree mark on your balancer and exact degree mark of BTDC you’ll be adjusting to. The strobe on the timing light will make the marks pop visually.
Thank you for this video. This head gasket job is incredibly simple, but it's the small details that matter. Make sure each cyl is at TDC compression stroke when torquing the push rod caps down for each respective cyl. I was looking for torque specs/sequence for an hour before I found this video. Thanks again!
I'm glad you documented all of this. I try to watch other's videos and they're difficult. Yours are great.
Just replaced my head a month ago on my 2000 XJ and wasn't sure TDC for reinstalling valvetrain was neccessary or not. Did a ton of research, including calling 2 dealerships to talk to their mechanics, as well as an indy, and sourcing the factory service manual, and all was conclusive that TDC for reinstall is not necessary as it's a self-correcting system with no need to adjust for valve lash. Just carefully tighten each cap screw to 21-22 ft/lb while alternating per cylinder and you're set. I have had no issues since doing it that way, tho I did start cylinder 1 at TDC at least. Though it absolutely doesn't hurt to work at TDC for each cylinder, for those wondering, it's not necessary.
Yeah, I wondered too. The only advantage I see is both push rods being the same height, not giving a funny angle on the bridge while trying to torque both sides the same. I went through and made sure each bridge was level though. May not be necessary though..
@@JeepSolid That makes the most sense and better to play it safe. Whoever rebuilt my engine previously way over-torqued the cap screws so I bent every single bridge taking them off, but a bit of assembly lube and a properly calibrated torque wrench and they went in no problem; nice and straight. Didn't see it in the video, did you make sure the journals/channels in the pivots align with the same orientation in your rocker arms? Nice job with the rebuild, that engine looks great, some of your earlier videos helped me with my rebuild.
Wow Dale. Build is coming along great and almost done. Keep up the great work.
Thank you! Almost there
Just picked up a used short block today. Your videos are great
Awesome. Thank you!
I love how Dale always says "good morning" even though the video's premiere at 3 PM on the East coast! lol
Haha! Thought you worked swing shift? Lol
their is only one thing i would have done different. i would have primed the oil system before putting on the valve cover. pretty much ever rebuilder does it just to make sure everything is oiling like it's suppose to. you can still do it and it also lets you see what kind of oil pressure your going to be running once you have it all done. by putting an oil pressure gauge in it. i'm enjoying the rebuild. glad to see i wasn't the only person to have a tight cam when i got it in the last jurnal.
Yeah. I plan on manually priming the oiling system after the engine is installed. Pull the distributor and prime with drill method. May be another month before I get to that point, so I was gonna wait a bit. Thanks for following along!
Another Awesome video keep up the good work
Great explanation guy!
Coming right along, enjoyed
Thanks! Getting close... !
Thank you for your input here regarding tdc find and correct rocker arm install. Im in my diy project; My wifes 93 grand cherokee got a new head gasket and ss exaust... almost back up and running! (c-:
This is an awesome video, I recently did mine with everything seeming ok but 100 miles later I have a collapse lifter on Cyl 2...not sure to call it a faulty lifter or maybe I did something? would love your input
Just curious, will an AMC 258 in-line 6 cylinder head fit one of the newer 4.0L engines? Or are the newer ones only based on the AMC 258?
Hey there Jeepsolid, i recently had a head replacement on my tj and i’m getting a very very small coolant leak though the bolt that is horizontal to the bolt #11, probably they forgot to put sealant on it. My question is: can I remove bolt 11 to put sealant without draining the coolant?
Hi Dale,
Please like to answer a question about the 4.0l engine,
It is normal for the engine gasket not to have all holes, as the engine block and cylinder head have.
Is it normal for the engine gasket to have only six holes? and block the other existing holes between the block and the engine head
I ask, for the circulation of the coolant
Thanks in advance for your help
Excellent video, of great help
Do you have a link to the manual and torque wrench you used for this whole rebuild process? Currently in the middle of a 2000 Jeep XJ 4.0 rebuild and am finally getting her rebuilt! Thanks for the awesome videos!
DON'T RE-USE HEAD BOLTS...I did and the gasket failed in 15k miles !
Hi Dale, just been offered a jeep 4.0 head 7120 but it has been machined to removed 0.039" or 1.00 mm to raise compression .Will this affect cylinder head gasket choice l should use,and maybe backlash settings on hyd tappet setting?
why are you turning the crank to torque the valvetrain? you cannot set lash on a 4,0. just torque it and move to the next one...
What happens if you don't keep everything in order when you took them out? Asking for a friend...
thanks for your videos Dale Super helpful, I'm installing a new head, first time, so when I cycle the valves to get TDC I have to do that before I torque each bolt on the rocker bridge bolts? is that right!
That is what I did, but I don't think it really matters that much.
Need it done
Excellent series! Does oil on the bolts factor into the appropriate torque specs?
Yep. They're supposed to be oiled
JeepSolid Cool, thanks!
JeepSolid I have two 4.0’s. I’m planning to rebuild one of them either over the winter or next Spring.
Did you reuse your stock head bolts? If not where did you get new ones? I’ve heard mixed reviewz
I've gone with the advice of, you can reuse the head bolts once, and never had any issue with that. Some will disagree and say your vehicle will blow up and be totaled if you do that... bottom line, there may be a bit more risk reusing, so you have to weigh the risk/benefit/cost
Nice work, had a quick question for you I own a 91 jeep cherokee and it's burning oil while underload comp test was very odd 128 dry 210 wet.... Do you think I need to change l the piston rings and re seat the values what you think?
Look up the normal compression range for your engine. On the inline 6, I believe it's 120-150 range. If your dry test is normal, your compression should be fine. Also, depends on how many miles on the engine. If your high mile range, most likely you are getting some loss through the rings and valves.
What's the mileage you'd recommend servicing the cylinder head at? I have a Wrangler '91 4.0
I don't have a set mileage in mind. These engines can run forever.... 200,000... 300,000 miles, no problem. They just slowly lose their efficiency. Slow compression or oil leaking gets worse..
I guess you are using all old parts,,?
It seems that way.
Do you have a link to the torque wrench you used? I’m looking to invest in one for my rebuild
Here is the one I use. I really like it. amzn.to/2Wj7JiD
For a noisy valvetrain, would it be enough to check for those 19lbs/ft?
Honestly; if your valvetrain is noisy, just replace your springs, lifters & caps. Pushrods even while you're at it. The parts to do it are dirt cheap on RockAuto. You'll be doing the same amount of access work to get to the bolts that you'd be tightening that you might as well replace them.
@@TheOceanX Thanks. We actually checked the tolerances and fit of all parts and they were in excellent condition. I have concluded that the noise I have is the regular noise of the 4.0 and it's only particularly noticeable with a cold engine.
Please please please, if reusing headbolts, measure their lengths to ensure they are not stretched beyond specification. If the engine has ever over heated or had been revved too high on many occasions, the bolts WILL stretch. The stretch reduces the yield strength thus making the bolts more likely to stretch more once torqued again. It's always cheap insurance to spend the $20-30 for a new set of stock head bolts. No need for anything fancy, even when building a stroker. The stock bolts are plenty strong. This is another reason these motors can take so much abuse.
Hello , I have new head bolt kit and they do not have the studs on top, is this an issue?? Thanks
Can still work. The stud on top holds the fuel injector harness in place. But can secure that a different way
@@JeepSolid ok great thanks so much I have been rebuilding an 82 scrambler and your videos have been fantastic!!
If all the push rods are the same length, why keep them in order?
+1993 Cherokee you want to keep all the valvetrain pieces in order. So the surfaces mate well
Getting closer! What’s your initial impression with this rebuild kit?
Seems like a good set. No complaints
Just checked. Item does not ship to Canada!! Sigh
👍👍
Have you done a 2.5 4 cil?
Not yet, although a lot is similar
@@JeepSolid Thanks bud
Así ocupo armar mi motor solo gooood
Best engine ever made, shittiest gaskets ever made.
This is why I hate diy rebuilds- he threw an old nasty, not rebuilt head on a clean block.
Not every engine rebuild needs a new head. This was a good clean head.
You didnt even spring for new head bolts? Sad.....Dislike
Hey Dale, when you torqued them to 45 ft. Lb, it looked like you switched to a digital torque wrench. What brand? And how do you like it? Also, some people put red Loctite, instead of oil, on the head bolts. What are your thoughts on that?
It's a digital Craftsman wrench. Works well. Its listed in my description. Guidelines don't recommend lock tight. I don't think its necessary and could cause future issues if rebuilt again..