Greetings from the UK! Great video. I've been fixing cars for years and looking at this great American straight six engine makes you appreciate old school engineering. None of this four valve per cylinder DOHC stuff, just simple, straightforward 4 litre grunt. With a job like this it's just a case of being methodical and organised. I take my hat off to you sir!
Thanks for the clear and concise demonstration. It made it clear whether or not someone would want to tackle this themselves as a driveway project. And the recommendation for Clearwater is a jewel since there are so many out there for sale. Would love a 7 Years Later quick update.
Even though I'm not planning on a job like this on mine I still found this very entertaining and I'm watching it for the second time thanks for brightening up my day!
@@jamesgreenjr.2128late here...but, no not on that AMC 4.0 (or the years I am familiar with anyway). The head has to be removed. Chevy made an inline 6 with an acess panel specifically for that...not a horrible Idea as it happens, I could have used it!
Yeah he had a blown head gasket he had a aluminum head so he had to get another head from the junkyard cuz I'm still heads and some of the aluminum head on my Jeep Cherokee 4.0 head it's not aluminum
You don't need to completely remove the intake manifold, just let it sit on the exhaust manifold so you don't have to disconnect so much stuff. The steering pump can also stay in the bracket. As for keeping track of the valve cover bolts, other option is to just take a photo from each side. I did this because I wanted to throw them in my parts cleaner. As for the lifters; it's not a problem to put new lifters on an old cam, you just don't want to do a new cam with old lifters.
I may have to do my Cylinder Head soon, I will revisit this video again if and when I do it. Thanks for taking the time to share your venture with others,
Someone else already asked this but no answer....what where the things "You had to run to the parts store for things you didn't know you needed?" This would be great info to know. Thx for the video!
Not the job I wanted to do but I found your video the best out there of any other video. I’m waiting on 1/2” 12 point socket to be shipped to me. Then, I can finally take the 6 remaining head bolts out. Also, thanks for the link for the new head. I’m probably just going to order a new one as well. I have a 2000 wj 4.0.
yeah, that was probably a re-man head... I actually orders one of those first, got it, and noticed the same thing you saw... welded crack... thats how they all "fix" them... it's bullshit, I wasn't about to put it in my truck... So I ordered the brand new (re-enforced) casting from clearwater. So far so good..
From what I've gleaned off the Internet, the 0331 casting cylinder head is the one that gives issues and was produced from 97/98-02, with and without the coilpack mounting bosses. After that, Daimler/Chrysler Jeep switched to a revised 0331 casting made by TUPY. This second version of the 0331 is reinforced in the area that was prone to cracking between cylinders 3 & 4. The TUPY is equivalent to the Clearwater H-D casting that you used. I hope this helps others & again thanx for the video! -G
i"ve been a mechanic for 23 years doing major repairs and you did a good job but i would just like to add a couple things for any one doing this job when installing new lifters (hydralic) you should always prime them you can skin this cat a couple ways soak in oil take a push rod and pump till hard or a oil squirt can pump in hole especially positive stop rocker. if u don"t prime they bottom out and damage internals . chase all haed bolt holes to get proper torq
I don't know to much about engines but I do have a passion for cars. I want to learn about engines so I can work on my own L6. Thank you for filming this video I learned a lot.
Thanks for the video! Julie and I just finished this on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ordered a Clearwater head plus kit), worked on it off and on for 3+ months since I didn't have a heated shed and it is winter. Worst part of it was the exhaust/intake manifold bolts. A couple of them you can barely feel, let alone see. Within the last year, we've replaced the oil pan (shop stripped the drain bolt), rear main gasket (might as well while in there), oil pan gasket, transmission pan gasket/filter, radiator, thermostat, and all hoses. Figured we would rather invest in parts and elbow grease than have a new vehicle payment.
Nice Jeep glad to see you are keeping her on the road. The only vehicles that are greener are the cars from the 1950 in Cuba people just don't get what it takes to build a vehicle. I get so aggravated at people that have reusable grocery bags but drive a throwaway Prius. Sorry about preaching to the choir :) . Really like your cardboard trick also, I cannot tell you how many times I said to myself I will remember how they go. Ha.
+FearlessFront (Todd Christopher) hey what's up nice work I just removed the head on mine and same problem I was just wondering how it was holding up and was curious were you ordered it
I'm doing one right now and decided to pull the head with both intake and exhaust manifolds still attached while using a hoist. I took the project over from someone else and thanks to your video I'll be able to see where a few of the already been removed parts go. Thanks for sharing.
For some reason my pushrods were shorter after replacing lifters and head ! So I ordered a pushrod length finder to find zero lash ! Then add 50 thousandths to it for preload !
To make it a little faster when doing the head gasket just undo the exhaust at the collector and keep both manifolds on. Then just undo wires, fuel and all that and take the head out with the manifolds, sane with the install. Yes I know the head weighs 85lbs and with both manifolds it comes out to be like 130-140lbs but it makes it so much faster. I use to run two shops and head gaskets was our specialty. If you have questions pm me.
thanks man, I did put some oil in the lifters, but they sat for a week b4 I replaced the head. Thats why I did the false start, to get some oil moving. And I did put motor assembly grease on the bottoms of the lifters. I would be crazy not too! lol I've honestly never heard of re-torquing a head, but I'll be replacing all the rocker arms next weekend, so I'll check them to be on the safe side. Thanks for the tips!
Dude! Great job!!! I'm about to replace lifters on a 2005 4.0 wrangler in a few weeks and your video was great insight...thanks so MUCH for the effort!
I just did mine and the only difficult thing is torquing down the exaust and intake manifold. I cant believe it, putting the head is the easiest if you got the torque wrench and specs. Thaks fearlessfront you video helpped me alot
Yeah you can put new lifters in. Not really risky at all. If the cam is still good and not pitted or anything it doesn't matter. It only matters if you are wanting to reuse the same lifters.
Very informative video. Thank you for taking the time 2 make this Fearlessfront as it's was helpful to prepare plus has overall common sense tips: cardboard boxes used to keep track of hardware locations, old hose to shim a bolt and a jack to raise the exhaust. I drive a 2003 Wrangler with the same engine (since new off the showroom floor) and I hope it won't be affected as well. No issues as of yet as it's at 108,000 miles and drove from Anchorage, AK to Houston, TX and back without issue.
very well done sir and great attention to detail . ive been a mechanic all of my life and would have no problem with you working on my vehicles if i was unable to do so , good job
I loved the idea of putting the bolts on the strip of cardboard. I had to replace my rear main seal in my XJ and didn't think to do that with the bolts from the oil pan. Long story short, I mixed up the different bolts and had to take it to my mechanic to finish it up. Great video!
mine is a "great neck" and its a 1/2" drive. I dont know how accurate it is, but I think consistent torquing is more important than being off by a foot pound or two. This one has served me well
I am from the snowbelt as well. You can't beat these XJs. Never had newer than 97 so haven't dealt with cylinder head issues but all have had awful rust. If I find one from down south I'm going to snag it. The last one I had was a god awful pain in the balls to work on with every suspension /frame bolt being frozen... makes every job take 3x longer than it should. Thanks for sharing the vid!
my parents had a 1984 AMC J-10 Jeep fullsize pickup with the Straight 6 when I was a kid.. I would kill for one now... A lot of good memories with that truck...
Again, thank for the vid! I knocked out the job in 2 short days. Very Easy. it looked like the head was previously replaced because it looked much newer. My lifter in intake Cylinder 2 was completely worn through! The old XJ runs like a beast now!
Good for you! I felt as if I was sitting shotgun on the test drive. I do all the work myself on our 4.0 TJ Rubi. But, I have not ever done anything on this scale. I know I will have to down the road and seeing your video sure gives me a boost of confidence. Thank you for posting!
Congratulations. Mine is a 1998 and i believe it is in need of a new cylinder head. Since I am from Brazil we have cheap labor but expensive parts. So I will probably have mine rebuilt. Great video, great job.
This video is exactly whats wrong with mine. Now I know whats parts I need and what to replace!! This video is awesome. Now, to actually do it is another story. Thanks for the vid!
Ok thanks! My old 94 4.0 didn't have the alignment pins...so I got my dad to help and we just kinda slowly lowered it on. It was pretty much aligned on the first try...torquing down the bolts took care of the rest. Thanks for the quick response!
Great video! I am on my 4th Cherokee a 2001 with 300000 miles on it. This is next weekends project, minus the new head. I have had to do the lifters on all my previous Cherokees around 150,000 miles. Cant believe this one went so long!!!!!!
great vid man! lots of help, but just a FYI no need to move PS pump or AC just take out the two bolts on the AC bracket that go into the head. the intake can stay in place with all lines and fuel connected !
Great video. I've owned three XJs, traded them each off at 200K. I really miss my 2000 Classic. It had the dreaded 0331 cracked head. I'm a WK guy now.
Hey thanks for the video man, I appreciate it. Got an 01 WJ 4.0 with the same problem, just starting now after 176,000 miles. This video helped me get an idea of what I've got to do, now just time to get the hands dirty.
Wow!! That was a great video! Somethings that I've learned about the 4.0 is to take the head off with the manifolds attached. Assemble the manifolds back onto the head before installing the head. Its a lot easier to deal with the manifolds out of the vehicle. Also if you forget about that bolt in the rear and if you torque wrench wont fit underneath that protrusion on the fire wall, just take a hammer to it. Knock it into the fire wall. Not the most pro thing to do, but works.
Pretty good video. I just walked it for the hell of it and it was a more in-depth a lot of the other videos I have seen so congratulations, you may well have one of the most in-depth for their Jeep head gasket replacement videos. I'm sure it will help some newbies and young Bloods, and a very good thing to show them how to organize bolts and studs and such I would also do the same with the rocker arms and pushrods because they should always go back in the same place as well. Only tip would be tell people what size socket you are using on each other the bolts or studs and if they need a deep well like the head bolts. Anyways, good job.
Really great video I just ordered my cylinder head from Clearwater; also great people so far. This is informative and I will be checking back over the next two weeks as I swap out head in my 2002.
Dude you are a madman. Nice job!!! You are my new hero. I've got a TJ and haven't tackled big jobs like this --- but you take all the mystery out of it and that removes a lot of fear. Thanks for taking the time to record and explain all of this. Super-appreciate it
I just talked to the guys at Clearwater... I said "I saw this youtube video" and they said "we can get your jeep head to you in a week"... The guy said he sells 15 of these a week based totally on your youtube video... Sounds like a pretty good marketing business! I tip my hat to you, sir.
you gotta do what you gotta !! a little help for ya. use a rubber band or clothes pin to hold the head bolt in place during removal and installation !!! lifters get most of their lubrication from splash, so when starting it up for break in keep RPM around 1500-2000 for 15-20 minutes until the lifters develop wear contact patterns !! good you used a micrometer type torque wrench ! the smoke is either spilled oil or blow-by straight six engines are strong good motors but the longer stroke don't like to be spun fast ! keep rpm below 3500 if possible ? use coolant conditioner, and synthetic oil if possible, change oil filter every 2000 miles, oil every 3000-4000 mile's. you did pretty good ! take care and all the best ! happy motoring.
I though about that, and did pump them up a lil bit, but they sat in the motor for a week b4 I started it, so it all probably leaked back out anyway. Thats why I ran the starter for a min b4 I started it up. I hope it helped some. I did put assembly grease on the bottoms of them though
got a 91 xj going to replace the head. never have done one (motor yes head no) wondered how it was done. really nice video good camera views and give me alot of good knowledge to get started. the plastic wrap and tin cap was smart, ill remember that trick. thanks zeke! p.s. if you do a lift kit...go with rough country and if you have a friend thats a vet ask them to help out. they give discounts to service members.
Thanks, it still runs great. it has a 3 in lift, and it has 31" general grabbers. 4.0's are a noisy motor, if it's not really loud, it's probably normal.
I used one of those "magnet on the end of a stick" thingy's, and fished them out that way. sometimes it takes a couple of tries due to suction and build up, but it can be done without any special tools.
This was not my case at this moment, but I did enjoy your video, your creatively with cartoon boxer "Eco-Friendly catch my attention with your organization with the good energy explaining the most you can to us. I appreciate your willingness. I would love you would visit my Cuban community in Cuba and share with them some good car knowledge. You see my people fix everything out of not having many sources lol
Awesome video. I miss my XJ but its funny I use to own a 2000 TJ that I swore had an issue with the head or gasket and now just learned the 2000 4.0 head issue. Makes a lot of sense now.
Well done! Nice to see someone that doesn't work in chaos with a bucket full of bolts. Hopefully your lifters will live, some Moly or Zinc additive would of been a good idea.
Very brave and well done. I know that in a few years I'll have to pull the head off my 83 4.2L but I'm just glad I don't have so much clutter in the engine bay to mess with. I tore a 4.0L head off a 92 Cherokee and the water jackets are sealed. I just need to get an area to work and get everything nice and clean first. :)
yeah, it still has low oil pressure. I did replace the oil pump and the rear main seal before I did the head swap to be on the safe side. My pressure runs about 20-30 psi while driving, so I dont worry about it. I got the "brand new heavy duty casting" head, its been fine. I bought a localy re-manufactured head before this one and it was "fixed", ie. welded.... I didn like that at all... and I imagine if you order a re-man form clearwater, it will be the same thing.
Thanks! I'm not doing the exact same job but close. I have to replace a piston today so similar tear down. Never done it before but the video gave more confidence!! And a great walk thru!
Mine has been great so far, and I have heated it up off roading it, so if it was gonna crack.... Its no longer using any coolant, and it has more power than it did before. Overall they are a decent company to deal with, they have a good warranty, as long as you dont over heat the new head... they can tell. I was all set with putting a "repaired" head on there
It maybe a good idea to yank the sump and check in the bottom of it for carbon build up. I had a XJ seize the engine on the freeway heading to Melbourne and it was the result of the mopar coolant leaking through a cracked head into the sump. Replaced that engine under new car warranty. 2 big ends blue from no oil pressure and locked onto crankshaft. Had remove the caps to spin the engine over to remover flex plate bolts. The 2 furthest from the oil pump rods 1 and 6 locked up. Good vid mate.
I'm about to do this same thing. But I didn't get a new head. I got one from a junkyard. However I did send it to a guy who rebuilds engines and he said it was good. Whew. This is going to be a big job.
Really appreciated some of the tips, the cardboard for the head bolts and lifting rods was great. I'm doing exactly this procedure right now, and am just about to put everything back together. Was wondering what those items you said you had to make parts runs for that you didn't know you were going to need. It's crazy far for me to get last-minute items, so I'd like to get them before starting if possible. Thanks - great vid.
thank you so much for making this video. im about to rip apart and put a new head gasket in my 94 4.0 wrangler. i have a dealer manual but man did it help to actually see everything. right on dude!
you could try that. I put on the gasket, threaded the bolts on the bottom first, then set the manifolds on the head. The bolts should help hold them on, then you should be able to put the rest in, but only hand tight until you get it all lined up. then torque them down in the pattern they tell you too, so you done ruin your new gasket. It's not that bad, I did it by myself
![Jeep Cherokee: Cylinder Head Gasket Replacement Procedure/ 0331 TUPY 4.0L ['96-'01 XJ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j_uNYbUiASg/mqdefault.jpg)
Greetings from the UK! Great video. I've been fixing cars for years and looking at this great American straight six engine makes you appreciate old school engineering. None of this four valve per cylinder DOHC stuff, just simple, straightforward 4 litre grunt. With a job like this it's just a case of being methodical and organised. I take my hat off to you sir!
Thanks for the clear and concise demonstration.
It made it clear whether or not someone would want to tackle this themselves as a driveway project.
And the recommendation for Clearwater is a jewel since there are so many out there for sale.
Would love a 7 Years Later quick update.
Even though I'm not planning on a job like this on mine I still found this very entertaining and I'm watching it for the second time thanks for brightening up my day!
saw a kid walking out of the junkyard with a 4.0 head.......now i know why lol
Is there enough room to fish out the lifters with a magnet and not take head off?
@@jamesgreenjr.2128late here...but, no not on that AMC 4.0 (or the years I am familiar with anyway). The head has to be removed. Chevy made an inline 6 with an acess panel specifically for that...not a horrible Idea as it happens, I could have used it!
Yeah he had a blown head gasket he had a aluminum head so he had to get another head from the junkyard cuz I'm still heads and some of the aluminum head on my Jeep Cherokee 4.0 head it's not aluminum
Thanks man, it pays to be organized, I couldn't imagine trying to figure out where stuff goes after a week of being away from it
You don't need to completely remove the intake manifold, just let it sit on the exhaust manifold so you don't have to disconnect so much stuff. The steering pump can also stay in the bracket. As for keeping track of the valve cover bolts, other option is to just take a photo from each side. I did this because I wanted to throw them in my parts cleaner. As for the lifters; it's not a problem to put new lifters on an old cam, you just don't want to do a new cam with old lifters.
I may have to do my Cylinder Head soon, I will revisit this video again if and when I do it. Thanks for taking the time to share your venture with others,
Someone else already asked this but no answer....what where the things "You had to run to the parts store for things you didn't know you needed?" This would be great info to know. Thx for the video!
BEER ISAY BEER.
You could coat your cylinder walls with motor oil to help prevent rust from the open atmosphere if you feel foil and plastic wrap isn't enough.
Your welcome! I posted this mostly so people would have a good idea if they wanted to do this or not. Compared to an engine ohc, it's blindingly easy!
Not the job I wanted to do but I found your video the best out there of any other video. I’m waiting on 1/2” 12 point socket to be shipped to me. Then, I can finally take the 6 remaining head bolts out. Also, thanks for the link for the new head. I’m probably just going to order a new one as well. I have a 2000 wj 4.0.
Damn right that 4.0-liter straight six is indestructible! That's why I've kept my '88 all these years after buying it brand new.
Hate to break it to ya but the 88 had a 4.2 litter french engin in it
Mechanical Malpractice
Even though AMC debuted the 4.0 six in 1987?
@@erichimes3062 His name checks out.
Well done, your organization during the disassembly makes all the difference in the world. Thanks for the tip on the rearmost
yeah, that was probably a re-man head... I actually orders one of those first, got it, and noticed the same thing you saw... welded crack... thats how they all "fix" them... it's bullshit, I wasn't about to put it in my truck... So I ordered the brand new (re-enforced) casting from clearwater. So far so good..
From what I've gleaned off the Internet, the 0331 casting cylinder head is the one that gives issues and was produced from 97/98-02, with and without the coilpack mounting bosses.
After that, Daimler/Chrysler Jeep switched to a revised 0331 casting made by TUPY. This second version of the 0331 is reinforced in the area that was prone to cracking between cylinders 3 & 4.
The TUPY is equivalent to the Clearwater H-D casting that you used.
I hope this helps others & again thanx for the video!
-G
i"ve been a mechanic for 23 years doing major repairs and you did a good job but i would just like to add a couple things for any one doing this job when installing new lifters (hydralic) you should always prime them you can skin this cat a couple ways soak in oil take a push rod and pump till hard or a oil squirt can pump in hole especially positive stop rocker. if u don"t prime they bottom out and damage internals . chase all haed bolt holes to get proper torq
How do you prime them?
I don't know to much about engines but I do have a passion for cars. I want to learn about engines so I can work on my own L6. Thank you for filming this video I learned a lot.
I didn't hear any cussing at all, you must be doing it wrong! LOL Thanks for the video, good stuff.
Just did my valve cover and plugs yesterday, there was a lot of cussing 🤣
Thanks for the video! Julie and I just finished this on a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee (ordered a Clearwater head plus kit), worked on it off and on for 3+ months since I didn't have a heated shed and it is winter. Worst part of it was the exhaust/intake manifold bolts. A couple of them you can barely feel, let alone see. Within the last year, we've replaced the oil pan (shop stripped the drain bolt), rear main gasket (might as well while in there), oil pan gasket, transmission pan gasket/filter, radiator, thermostat, and all hoses. Figured we would rather invest in parts and elbow grease than have a new vehicle payment.
Nice Jeep glad to see you are keeping her on the road. The only vehicles that are greener are the cars from the 1950 in Cuba people just don't get what it takes to build a vehicle. I get so aggravated at people that have reusable grocery bags but drive a throwaway Prius. Sorry about preaching to the choir :) . Really like your cardboard trick also, I cannot tell you how many times I said to myself I will remember how they go. Ha.
lol! yea, me too! live and learn!
+FearlessFront (Todd Christopher) hey what's up nice work I just removed the head on mine and same problem I was just wondering how it was holding up and was curious were you ordered it
I truly admire you for the work you did on your 2000 Jeep.
Good job on the vid. You are a king of shade tree mechanics.
Thanks man, those little steps make life a lot easier on re-assembly
Very nice video. Just the facts and no useless garbage...just how it should be.
wellit helps he is working on a straight 6, it already Dodges the crap and useless garbage that say other engines have
I'm doing one right now and decided to pull the head with both intake and exhaust manifolds still attached while using a hoist. I took the project over from someone else and thanks to your video I'll be able to see where a few of the already been removed parts go. Thanks for sharing.
If ur replacing the head ! Did u have to get taller pushrods ! ?
For some reason my pushrods were shorter after replacing lifters and head ! So I ordered a pushrod length finder to find zero lash ! Then add 50 thousandths to it for preload !
"developed a lifter tick"- so you mean every 4.0?
Squalestang92 the early 00s have the problem
every straight 6 as well lol even the diesels
Still better than the 4.8
The 4.0 is just a noisy, hot running motor. Very durable and reliable
i got a 92 Cherokee laredo 4.0l hov in she runs great .
Thanks for the tutorial man. Theres no telling how much trouble you saved us stubborn autodidacts.
You did a great job! Video was very informative. Thanks for Sharing!
To make it a little faster when doing the head gasket just undo the exhaust at the collector and keep both manifolds on. Then just undo wires, fuel and all that and take the head out with the manifolds, sane with the install. Yes I know the head weighs 85lbs and with both manifolds it comes out to be like 130-140lbs but it makes it so much faster. I use to run two shops and head gaskets was our specialty. If you have questions pm me.
Best video on TH-cam. LOL Thanks.
take care of it and it will never let u down. this one was neglected BAD, and it's starting to make a come-back. I though it was done for.
thanks from russia
thanks man, I did put some oil in the lifters, but they sat for a week b4 I replaced the head. Thats why I did the false start, to get some oil moving. And I did put motor assembly grease on the bottoms of the lifters. I would be crazy not too! lol
I've honestly never heard of re-torquing a head, but I'll be replacing all the rocker arms next weekend, so I'll check them to be on the safe side.
Thanks for the tips!
i would have replaced the exhaust manifold, the stock ones are cheap and crack easily
The 2000 models have the catalytic converters built into the header.
Dude! Great job!!! I'm about to replace lifters on a 2005 4.0 wrangler in a few weeks and your video was great insight...thanks so MUCH for the effort!
What was the total price tag ?!!?
Really good video, i like the fact that you call it straight, and make it sound pretty simple. Just like a good teacher
13:18 You deserve that drink :D
I just did mine and the only difficult thing is torquing down the exaust and intake manifold. I cant believe it, putting the head is the easiest if you got the torque wrench and specs. Thaks fearlessfront you video helpped me alot
CAN U CHANGE LIFTERS WITH OUT CHANGE A CAM?
You can but it's really risky
Yeah you can put new lifters in. Not really risky at all. If the cam is still good and not pitted or anything it doesn't matter. It only matters if you are wanting to reuse the same lifters.
Very informative video.
Thank you for taking the time 2 make this Fearlessfront as it's was helpful to prepare plus has overall common sense tips: cardboard boxes used to keep track of hardware locations, old hose to shim a bolt and a jack to raise the exhaust.
I drive a 2003 Wrangler with the same engine (since new off the showroom floor) and I hope it won't be affected as well. No issues as of yet as it's at 108,000 miles and drove from Anchorage, AK to Houston, TX and back without issue.
very well done sir and great attention to detail . ive been a mechanic all of my life and would have no problem with you working on my vehicles if i was unable to do so , good job
I loved the idea of putting the bolts on the strip of cardboard. I had to replace my rear main seal in my XJ and didn't think to do that with the bolts from the oil pan. Long story short, I mixed up the different bolts and had to take it to my mechanic to finish it up. Great video!
That's an awesome idea with the holes poked in cardboard to organize the bolts. I learned a lot watching your vids. Thx
great job! Not many people would do it like this... they'd just tear it apart and slam it together. But you didn't do that. I give props dude.
mine is a "great neck" and its a 1/2" drive. I dont know how accurate it is, but I think consistent torquing is more important than being off by a foot pound or two.
This one has served me well
I am from the snowbelt as well. You can't beat these XJs. Never had newer than 97 so haven't dealt with cylinder head issues but all have had awful rust. If I find one from down south I'm going to snag it. The last one I had was a god awful pain in the balls to work on with every suspension /frame bolt being frozen... makes every job take 3x longer than it should. Thanks for sharing the vid!
No Problem man! Long live the XJ!
And the new "Cherokee's'" aren't REAL Cherokees!
Fearlessfront You are so fucking right! The new Cherooooocar is crap!
Moccina got a 92 XJ, the issue doesn't exist in the early 90s xjs?
I have a 92 XJ and my head gasket just blew. .i'm just glad these engines don't have to be lifted to do the job
my parents had a 1984 AMC J-10 Jeep fullsize pickup with the Straight 6 when I was a kid.. I would kill for one now... A lot of good memories with that truck...
Again, thank for the vid! I knocked out the job in 2 short days. Very Easy. it looked like the head was previously replaced because it looked much newer. My lifter in intake Cylinder 2 was completely worn through! The old XJ runs like a beast now!
Good for you! I felt as if I was sitting shotgun on the test drive. I do all the work myself on our 4.0 TJ Rubi. But, I have not ever done anything on this scale. I know I will have to down the road and seeing your video sure gives me a boost of confidence. Thank you for posting!
Thanks for the video, helped my father and me replace the head, head gasket, etc. on my XJ
Congratulations. Mine is a 1998 and i believe it is in need of a new cylinder head. Since I am from Brazil we have cheap labor but expensive parts. So I will probably have mine rebuilt. Great video, great job.
Nice video! I'm getting ready to dive in on mine and it was just nice to see someone go through the process. Thanks for your contribution.
This video is exactly whats wrong with mine. Now I know whats parts I need and what to replace!! This video is awesome. Now, to actually do it is another story. Thanks for the vid!
Ok thanks! My old 94 4.0 didn't have the alignment pins...so I got my dad to help and we just kinda slowly lowered it on. It was pretty much aligned on the first try...torquing down the bolts took care of the rest. Thanks for the quick response!
Great video! I am on my 4th Cherokee a 2001 with 300000 miles on it. This is next weekends project, minus the new head. I have had to do the lifters on all my previous Cherokees around 150,000 miles. Cant believe this one went so long!!!!!!
great vid man! lots of help, but just a FYI no need to move PS pump or AC just take out the two bolts on the AC bracket that go into the head. the intake can stay in place with all lines and fuel connected !
Great video. I've owned three XJs, traded them each off at 200K. I really miss my 2000 Classic. It had the dreaded 0331 cracked head. I'm a WK guy now.
You rule. Love my 4.0. But I would never have the calmness to do what you did. Well done.
Hey thanks for the video man, I appreciate it. Got an 01 WJ 4.0 with the same problem, just starting now after 176,000 miles. This video helped me get an idea of what
I've got to do, now just time to get the hands dirty.
Wow!! That was a great video! Somethings that I've learned about the 4.0 is to take the head off with the manifolds attached. Assemble the manifolds back onto the head before installing the head. Its a lot easier to deal with the manifolds out of the vehicle. Also if you forget about that bolt in the rear and if you torque wrench wont fit underneath that protrusion on the fire wall, just take a hammer to it. Knock it into the fire wall. Not the most pro thing to do, but works.
Pretty good video. I just walked it for the hell of it and it was a more in-depth a lot of the other videos I have seen so congratulations, you may well have one of the most in-depth for their Jeep head gasket replacement videos. I'm sure it will help some newbies and young Bloods, and a very good thing to show them how to organize bolts and studs and such I would also do the same with the rocker arms and pushrods because they should always go back in the same place as well. Only tip would be tell people what size socket you are using on each other the bolts or studs and if they need a deep well like the head bolts. Anyways, good job.
Nice Job!!! I'm looking at getting one of these jeeps with a 4.0 - nice to know they are backyard mechanic friendly!
Really great video I just ordered my cylinder head from Clearwater; also great people so far. This is informative and I will be checking back over the next two weeks as I swap out head in my 2002.
Dude you are a madman. Nice job!!! You are my new hero. I've got a TJ and haven't tackled big jobs like this --- but you take all the mystery out of it and that removes a lot of fear. Thanks for taking the time to record and explain all of this. Super-appreciate it
im researching how to install performance cylinder heads on my mustang and this is really helpful thanks for taking the time to make this video
I just talked to the guys at Clearwater... I said "I saw this youtube video" and they said "we can get your jeep head to you in a week"... The guy said he sells 15 of these a week based totally on your youtube video... Sounds like a pretty good marketing business! I tip my hat to you, sir.
Good job man. 99 Xj here about to dive into the exact same job with a salvaged 96 cylinder head.
you gotta do what you gotta !!
a little help for ya.
use a rubber band or clothes pin to hold the head bolt in place during removal and installation !!!
lifters get most of their lubrication from splash, so when starting it up for break in keep RPM around 1500-2000 for 15-20 minutes until the lifters develop wear contact patterns !!
good you used a micrometer type torque wrench !
the smoke is either spilled oil or blow-by
straight six engines are strong good motors but the longer stroke don't like to be spun fast ! keep rpm below 3500 if possible ? use coolant conditioner, and synthetic oil if possible, change oil filter every 2000 miles, oil every 3000-4000 mile's.
you did pretty good !
take care and all the best !
happy motoring.
Great vid, super helpful and easy to follow. Steady cam work and decent audio appreciated.
I though about that, and did pump them up a lil bit, but they sat in the motor for a week b4 I started it, so it all probably leaked back out anyway.
Thats why I ran the starter for a min b4 I started it up. I hope it helped some. I did put assembly grease on the bottoms of them though
got a 91 xj going to replace the head. never have done one (motor yes head no) wondered how it was done. really nice video good camera views and give me alot of good knowledge to get started. the plastic wrap and tin cap was smart, ill remember that trick. thanks zeke! p.s. if you do a lift kit...go with rough country and if you have a friend thats a vet ask them to help out. they give discounts to service members.
Great Job, man! Super helpful! Thanks for making this for all us Jeep 4.0 owners!!
Thanks, it still runs great. it has a 3 in lift, and it has 31" general grabbers.
4.0's are a noisy motor, if it's not really loud, it's probably normal.
I used one of those "magnet on the end of a stick" thingy's, and fished them out that way. sometimes it takes a couple of tries due to suction and build up, but it can be done without any special tools.
This was not my case at this moment, but I did enjoy your video, your creatively with cartoon boxer "Eco-Friendly catch my attention with your organization with the good energy explaining the most you can to us. I appreciate your willingness. I would love you would visit my Cuban community in Cuba and share with them some good car knowledge. You see my people fix everything out of not having many sources lol
Awesome video. I miss my XJ but its funny I use to own a 2000 TJ that I swore had an issue with the head or gasket and now just learned the 2000 4.0 head issue. Makes a lot of sense now.
I am about to do a head gasket and this video really helped my confidence on attempting this thanks man.
Well done!
Nice to see someone that doesn't work in chaos with a bucket full of bolts.
Hopefully your lifters will live, some Moly or Zinc additive would of been a good idea.
Awesome! Just had my head gasket blow and this was the only video I could find that helped! Well done. Thanks!!
Yea dude! I had the exact same problem when I wanted to start this project, and was really surprised there weren't any detailed videos on the subject.
Very brave and well done. I know that in a few years I'll have to pull the head off my 83 4.2L but I'm just glad I don't have so much clutter in the engine bay to mess with. I tore a 4.0L head off a 92 Cherokee and the water jackets are sealed. I just need to get an area to work and get everything nice and clean first. :)
Nice video! Very informative. This is probably the best how to video I've seen in a long time. Thanks!
yeah, it still has low oil pressure. I did replace the oil pump and the rear main seal before I did the head swap to be on the safe side. My pressure runs about 20-30 psi while driving, so I dont worry about it.
I got the "brand new heavy duty casting" head, its been fine. I bought a localy re-manufactured head before this one and it was "fixed", ie. welded.... I didn like that at all... and I imagine if you order a re-man form clearwater, it will be the same thing.
Great video. My 4.0 broke some piston skirts and I am in the middle of the tear down. Your video helped thank you. John
Thanks! I'm not doing the exact same job but close. I have to replace a piston today so similar tear down. Never done it before but the video gave more confidence!! And a great walk thru!
That cardboard trick is really amazing. I wish I had known about that sooner. Thanks.
Thanks for the vid man. I have a '96 with bad valve springs causing multiple cylinder misfire. Can't wait to pull it apart.
Mine has been great so far, and I have heated it up off roading it, so if it was gonna crack.... Its no longer using any coolant, and it has more power than it did before. Overall they are a decent company to deal with, they have a good warranty, as long as you dont over heat the new head... they can tell.
I was all set with putting a "repaired" head on there
fantastic job - you have SO MUCH more patience than i do - kudos
It maybe a good idea to yank the sump and check in the bottom of it for carbon build up. I had a XJ seize the engine on the freeway heading to Melbourne and it was the result of the mopar coolant leaking through a cracked head into the sump. Replaced that engine under new car warranty. 2 big ends blue from no oil pressure and locked onto crankshaft. Had remove the caps to spin the engine over to remover flex plate bolts. The 2 furthest from the oil pump rods 1 and 6 locked up. Good vid mate.
I'm about to do this same thing. But I didn't get a new head. I got one from a junkyard. However I did send it to a guy who rebuilds engines and he said it was good. Whew. This is going to be a big job.
Really appreciated some of the tips, the cardboard for the head bolts and lifting rods was great. I'm doing exactly this procedure right now, and am just about to put everything back together. Was wondering what those items you said you had to make parts runs for that you didn't know you were going to need. It's crazy far for me to get last-minute items, so I'd like to get them before starting if possible.
Thanks - great vid.
thanks! no problems to report so far. I still haven't added anymore coolant since I did the swap. So I assume everything is sealed up as it should be
had the same problem with my mom's Grand Cherokee, she ended up replacing the whole thing, wish I had known about this a year ago lol
thank you so much for making this video. im about to rip apart and put a new head gasket in my 94 4.0 wrangler. i have a dealer manual but man did it help to actually see everything. right on dude!
Thanks man! good luck with your lifter swap!
you could try that. I put on the gasket, threaded the bolts on the bottom first, then set the manifolds on the head. The bolts should help hold them on, then you should be able to put the rest in, but only hand tight until you get it all lined up. then torque them down in the pattern they tell you too, so you done ruin your new gasket.
It's not that bad, I did it by myself
yes I do, i'm putting up a vid of that soon. it's really cool the way it hooks up
Thanks man! it runs great now! Way more usable power in the low rpm's
Todd, thanks a bunch for the video. It really helped in repairing my '97 TJ. Still got misfire codes, but the head job itself came out fine.
The only time I needed to do this was on my 86 CJ-7. It was way easier having so much more room to work.