Gary Hemming, le beatnik des cimes - Documentaire
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2015
- Gary Hemming à la recherche d'un équilibre, né en 1934 et mort en 1969, est un alpiniste américain, surnommé en France « le beatnik des cimes ».
L'alpiniste américain Gary Hemming a marqué l'époque des années 60. L'histoire de ce personnage "hors norme" est intimement liée à celle du sauvetage des Drus, en 1966, dans le massif du mont Blanc, sauvetage dont il avait pris l'initiative. La presse s'empare de l'événement et élève Gary Hemming au rang de héros national. Tous les journaux affichent à la "une" ce grand gaillard à l'allure de beatnik, aux vêtements faits de bric et de broc, au sourire jovial et aux longs cheveux blonds. Dès lors, on le surnomme : le beatnik des cîmes. À Chamonix, on le connaît déjà. Gary a débarqué en France en 1960 et en marge de la préparation d'un diplôme universitaire à Grenoble, il s'adonne à sa passion : l'escalade. Des témoignages de personnalités telles que René Desmaison, Gérard Géry, Maurice Herzog, Pierre Mazeaud ainsi que celui de son fils, Lauren Hemming, et des images d'archives.
Un film de Jean Afanassieff
#Hemming #Alpinisme #Beatnik
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Homme d exception et unique
Il a apporté un vent de fraîcheur incontestable dans cette vallée de Chamonix engoncée à l'époque dans ses certitudes et les batailles d'égos entre grimpeurs. J'avoue avoir été jaloux de son talent, de sa décontraction... et de ses cheveux!
Un homme un vrai et un tres grand Alpiniste !!! Je me souviens du sauvetage dans les Drus en 66
Sacré mec !
Il était en harmonie avec lui même et son environnement...
Maintenant aller grimper sous acide au clair de lune... Ouach.. Il faut avoir envie ! Mais enfin c'était une époque ...
Ouaip, Gary Hemming était un Grand, j'ai toujours regretté de ne pas l'avoir connu.
J'avais rencontré Gilles Bodin au fond d'une crevasse du glacier d'Argentière où il était descendu me donner un coup de main dans un sauvetage difficile, plus tard il m'avait raconté la fondation très "compliquée" de la Cie des guides du Mont Blanc.
Le revoir dans ce film m'a fait plaisir.
Revoir Desmaison aussi, bien que je l'aie à peine connu, mais ses compagnons de cordée dont Vincent Mercié (son cinéaste, lui aussi aux Drus) firent partie de mes copains de l'époque. Desmaison était notre phare comme l'avait été Lionel Terray pour nos aînés.
Gary, lui, n'aurait jamais voulu être un phare ni une référence, c'était juste une étoile au firmament qui brillait plus que les autres.
Mme POB Bonjour,
Je vous vois commenter beaucoup de vidéos d alpinisme en apportant des informations complémentaires souvent très intéressantes. Mais une question se pose souvent pour moi, qui êtes vous? Quel âge avez vous? Pourrais t on connaître au moins un nom? j espère n être pas trop indiscret en vous posant toutes ces questions. Merci d avance
Bonne continuation à vous
Je me souviens de lui en 1966 à Chamonix . Qu ' elle ambiance ! je suis très touché par ce reportage . merci .
merci Gary,une leçon de vie pour tous.......
MERCI MAGNIFIQUE PORTAIT ENCORE PLUS HEUREUX DE VOIR QUE C EST UN FILM DE JEAN AFFANASIEF FLEX
amour, admiration et respect...
Contrairement à ce que laisse penser le début de ce reportage, les images avant le générique ne sont pas tournées sur le Point-Neuf de Paris mais à Grenoble. On voit même l'Isère qui gronde sous le vieux pont Saint-Laurent.
Suite à une discussion avec une dame. Je viens de retrouver la trace de mon copain de classe de Saint-Jean-De-Maurienne. Dans ce doc, on le voit plusieurs fois parler de son papa Gary Hemming (dcd en 1969).
La dernière fois que j'ai croisé Laurence, c'était aux Beaux-Arts ici à Grenoble en 1991.
Le documentaire parle aussi du livre de Gary (je ne sais pas encore s'il est publié depuis).
Il avait 20 ans d'avance sur son époque , dommage qu'il n'ai pas connu Edlinger et patrick Berhault
Sixties : aller plus haut, aller plus loin. J'aurais pas voulu être vieux dans les années 60...
Merci.
J'aurais dû faire beatnik
Ce type est juste "humain " , les gens manqent vraiment d'humanité aujourd'hui
Appel à témoin :
Avec mon amie Isabelle nous cherchons à retrouver Laurence. Hemming que l'on voit sur cette vidéo sur les traces de son papa, Gary.
Aidez nous SVP
bonjour, loren est décédé il y a quelques années. ..lui aussi une mort tragique ( il a eu un fils .)..sa maman Claude nous a quittés l'année dernière..de maladie ..
@@moniqueluyat8380 Merci pour ces nouvelles même si elles sont mauvaises.
Qu'est il arrivé à Loren ?
can someone please give some CC translation caps for this video, thanks.. I wonder why Gary decided to shoot himself, he should of gone to France where he was a national hero instead of the Tetons
He came back to USA from France because of a heartbreak and died 4 months later from a self-inflicted gunshot wound outside the Jenny Lake campground in Grand Teton National Park in 1969. My uncle was friend with him in France.
8.04/24.58
Intox. Son premier coéquipier était Harlin. foutaise!
Il a joué dans le film les bidasses dans la montagne 😅
Sûr Gary était sympa..... Quant à être un précurseur..... NON il y avait Robbins, F Guillot, R Desmaison...... Un an aprés LE sauvetage des Drus, je l'ai croisé sur la "Mer de Glace". Il m'a dit dans un grand éclat de rire : "Chut, je suis en mission secrete". Dommage c'était la dernière fois.
C'est a dire ? C'était mon grand père si vous l'avez croisez cela m'intéresse
Tu es le fils de Lauren ? Je l'ai connu, et ta grand-mère aussi, et même la grand-mère de ton père (la mère de Gary)... J'ai écrit le livre sur Gary Hemming après avoir conduit des recherches dans tout le monde et avoir lu tous ses journaux. Le livre à été publié en France, Italy, Angleterre, Etats Unis, Espagne et Korée. Contacte-moi si tu veux - tu peut me trouver sur Facebook - Mirella Tenderini
Ton papa est Lauren ?
English SVP?
""At the beginning of the 60s, mountaineering had already spread out widely from the Alps and Alpine traditions. Although many Italians had climbed mountains all over the world, it took a bunch of American mountaineers - with new techniques and a new philosophy of climbing - for the Europeans to start considering different ways to practice rock climbing, and especially different ways to think of it.
In the 80s all climbers still talked about those Americans, especially of one of them who had appeared and disappeared like a comet only a few years after the event which made him famous. After some time the news arrived that he died in mysterious circumstances on the shores of a remote lake at the foot of unknown mountains ... And that was all. But who was Gary Hemming?
Although I was born in a big city, at that time I lived on the mountains with my husband who was a mountaineering guide and a rock climbing instructor. I read climbing magazines from several countries and also wrote articles for some of them. Our home was frequented almost exclusively by mountaineers, and I was intrigued by that man Gary Hemming of whom nobody knew the story. We knew the lives and stories of these mountaineers - some of them were very famous, like Riccardo Cassin and Walter Bonatti, and others were ordinary people who loved climbing. Gary, of whom nobody knew anything, intrigued me and I wanted to find out who he was and all that he did.
At first I did not think of a book. I was just very curious. I did not imagine that I was embarking on an adventure which would go on for several years.
My investigation started from the few clues available. Using Paris Match, I tracked down the names of the French climbers who had participated in the famous rescue on the Dru. I then went to Chamonix to interview them. I thought it would be difficult to obtain their confidence, but I found all the doors open. Even René Desmaison, whom had been described to me as a self-centered man (and moreover had good reasons for not loving Gary who snatched his glory after the Dru rescue), helped me a good deal, opening new roads in the journey. He introduced me to all of the people in Chamonix who knew Gary, starting with Lou Janin, the owner of the Hotel de Paris where Gary lived for a winter in exchange for shoveling snow from the roof of the hotel. The most precious contact was the address of Pierre Joffroy, the author of the famous article in Paris Match, who, with Pierre Mazeaud, had been the friend and patron of penniless Gary while he was in Paris, allowing him to live in their home when he was not sleeping under bridges. With these introductions, I rushed off to Paris to continue the search.
Once started, the pace of the search increasingly accelerated. The people I interviewed mentioned other people who had known Gary. It was easy to trace climbers - mostly Americans, but also many Europeans with whom he had made ascents - thanks to Ken Wilson, the founder of the magazine Mountain, who gave me their addresses. Talking to everybody I learned the names and the addresses of other persons who could tell me something about Gary - bits of his life and flashes of his character and personality. Sometimes it happened that a person who I tried to contact and did not answer would later materialize in my studio in Milan (as Jerry Gallwas did - a childhood friend of Gary's and his partner in his early ascents). Most people I visited to interview them - traveling back and forth between France, Switzerland, Germany, England, and especially America to meet anyone who could help me to reconstruct the personality of Gary Hemming.
It was less easy to reach the family of Gary and the women whom he loved and that loved him. The woman he had idealized - the "Marie" of this book - refused to talk with me about a part of her life which she had decided to forget. I described her relationship with Gary as I could reconstruct it from his letters and diaries and the tales of other people, but I respected her privacy giving her a name which is not hers. Also the widow of John Harlin, Mara, did not answer my letters, but one day, much to my surprise, I opened the door of my home to a handsome young man looking incredibly like John Harlin, the closest friend and climbing partner of Gary's. He was his son with his same name, and had come to visit me together with his wife Adele and Konrad Kirch, one of the two climbers stranded on Punta Gugliermina and rescued by Hemming and Harlin in 1961. He told me that his mother was still distressed by the death of her husband and begged me to excuse her, but he had come to tell me all what he knew. He was just a little boy when Gary attended their home in Leysin, Switzerland. After that visit I met him on other occasions, as I did with most of Gary's friends, some of whom became habitual visitors to my home. The young Harlin was among the first people to read this book when I published it in Paris in 1991.
I never found Françoise, the last fiancée of Gary's; none of his friends had her address or an idea of how to find it. On the contrary Claude, Gary's partner in his early years in France and mother of his son, gave me her earnest support, put me in touch with Lauren - his son - and helped me to reach his mother in the US. Carmen Hemming was very old and beautiful and did not want to talk about her son, but in the days I spent with her in San Diego - the city where Gary grew up - I understood a lot more about him than during most of my research around the world.
All of Gary's American girlfriends were eager to talk to me and enthusiastic to participate in the documentation for a a book about him. They told me that a few years after the death of Gary a famous American writer, James Salter, had interviewed them in order to write his biography, but since he had no documentation of his years in Europe he renounced and wrote a novel instead: Solo Faces - a good, enjoyable book, which Robert Redford read and liked. Redford even thought of making a film out of it; but he wanted to know about Gary's time in Europe and missing that information he dropped the idea. When I finished this book, a friend of Gary's who had been with Robert Redford on a trek in Nepal in 1986 told him about it. One day I received a letter from Santa Monica in which Redford wrote that he was interested and asked me to send him the manuscript. I sent the book but in the end nothing came from it. A friend said that originally Redford was interested in also playing the role of Gary, but with so many years passed he was then too old for the part.
More years have passed since then and I wonder whether the myth of Gary Hemming can still capture the attention of dreamers and rebels. As I wrote in this book, Gary's son told me that in San Francisco he met some hippies who, without knowing who he was, talked about a Gary Hemming who was not dead but made up the scene of his death in order to be free and go around the world incognito to climb mountains in the wilderness. In the 80s Gary was still very much a myth and a legend. Today ... I do not know.""
from: GARY HEMMING, THE BEATNICK OF THE ALPS, by Mirella Tenderini
(U.S. edition)
THANK YOU ,M.T. ---- SO INTERESTING !
I WILL LOOK FOR YOUR BOOK . THANKS FOR WRITING ABOUT HIM .
I JUST CAME ACROSS A SNIPET OF HIS STORY IN JON KRAKAUER'S AMAZING BOOK " EIGER DREAMS " ..... AND THEN FOUND THIS YOU TUBE VID ON HIM..... BUT MY FRENCH IS VERY RUSTY !!! SO I FOUND YOUR LENGTHY COMMENT HELPFUL ;-)))
@@mirella1935 Merci beaucoup for your very detailed reply above and all the research and work for the book. I heard about Gary Hemming through Patrick Edlinger having cited him as an influence.
Ils le décrivent tous avec 'ses cheveux longs'.... qu'il n'a pas du tout !!!
Son fils à l'air très mélancolique. Je ne trouve rien le concernant.... que fait-il ?
Si ! Selon les critères de l'époque, les cheveux longs c'était ça. Je crois d'ailleurs qu'on mésestime le rôle que son look d'ange en haillons a joué dans son éphémère succès médiatique. Sans le savoir, Hemming incarnait à la perfection le type de personnage qui faisait les rêver les jeunes filles des sixties. Ses incontestables talents de grimpeur n'étaient qu'un accessoire du décor, malheureusement !
Quant à la mélancolie du rejeton, essayons d'imaginer ce que l'on ressent à être le fils d'une icône. Paumé fils de paumé... C'est la vie !