Alternator change Discovery 2 TD5. (Big Lollopy Dog)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- In which the current Mrs Moggs and I change the alternator on a 2000 Land Rover Discovery 2, TD5, 10P engine. It's a farcical job done by a complete amateur in true Hub Nut style. Contains images of Big Spanners and an oily tool . . . !
Thanks for doing this video - helpful stuff. Just a warning to anyone using the workshop manual - removing the belt tensioner first makes a big difference but the manual contains an error - it's the pulley bolt that's LH thread NOT I repeat NOT the bolt that attaches the tensioner to the bracket as stated in the manual. This is a regular 14mm bolt that you need a thin walled, 12 point socket for. I followed the workshop manual and sheared the bolt in the bracket by trying to turn it clockwise. Ball-ache and swearing ensued!
Whoa, well spotted. Instructions need to be accurate to work properly. I usually just get stuck in!
That answers the question I was about to ask.
Need to replace my alternator this weekend and I've seen a bunch of stuff related to the process but only the service manual claims it's a LH thread whereas nothing else mentions it, which I thought was a bit odd.
Honestly, at the moment, I'm thinking I'll deliberately do the same as Derek and remove the mounting bracket from the engine, with the tensioner still attached, and then sort out the tensioner while it's sat on a workbench.
Just stuck a new alternator on mine, so I thought I'd compare notes...
Having a tool to remove the idler pulley, by itself, IS the key to getting this done without swearing.
Luckily, I did have a 9/16 socket that would fit into the tensioner and it came straight off.
Undo the oil feed from the engine, pop the clip on the oil return and disconnect the vacuum line from the brake servo AND disconnect the tiny tee-joint half way along the vacuum hose.
Remove both 10mm bolts and the bracket that holds the top of the alternator, T50 torx for the bottom bolt and the alternator is free.
Pull it forward, 13mm to undo the +ve feed on the side of the alternator, let it hang down behind the rad' and the multiplug pops out.
When refitting, attach the oil feed hose (loosely) to the new alternator before you install it 'cos it's a pig to fit the bolt and copper washers once the alternator is installed.
Make sure the captive nut for the bottom bolt is seated properly before attempting to install the alternator.
Sit the new alternator behind the rad' and connect the multiplug.
Lift it up into place(ish) and attach the main +ve wire.
Ease it back into place properly, wriggling the oil drain hose back onto the pump at the same time.
Refit the top bracket and bolts loosely to hold the alternator in place.
Use a screwdriver through the hole for the bottom bolt to align the alternator properly, using it as a lever to adjust the alternator's position.
Bottom bolt in and tighten up the top and bottom bolts.
Re-attach the oil feed pipe to the engine and tighten both ends of the hose.
Vacuum hose back on, secure clips for vacuum hose and oil drain hose, other end of vac' hose into servo and tiny hose reconnected to tee-joint.
Idler back on, belt back on, intercooler hose back on, fan back on and home in time for tea and medals.
Genuinely, only took me a couple of hours, even including celebratory cups of tea when various targets were achieved.
Just goes to show the difference between when something goes smoothly and when it goes, y'know, how things usually tend to go.
Cheers Si! Top job! Well done. I made mistakes but it was the first time, and the job looks very daunting when you first look at it. I only filmed it because I could not find a video on TH-cam!
Good on ya mate. Someone had to put it on TH-cam. Cheers from Western Australia. It definitely helped me. 👍
That's why I did it, I could not find a good film on TH-cam!
Oh gee thanks for making this video. It helped us a LOT. Bless you.
Thank you! I only made it because I could not find a vid on TH-cam!
Top video,
Hvl.
Hi there, just see the alternator vid, did mine a few month ago it was a shit job to do, i took the inlet manifold off and cleaned it out at the same time, it was full of black crap from the EGR, i did not take bracket off , just the long bolt underneath. Well done anyway, get rid of that EGR, TAKE CARE and STAY WELL, cheers Mick. kippax leeds.
Yes, changing the alternator was difficult and I did not have to remove the bottom bracket, but never mind, live and learn, eh? Although there was a real sense of achievement afterwards!
In retrospect, most of the gunk in the manifold is oil that could have come from the turbo. Annoyingly. I have exactly the same problem with a 1.4 TDci Fusion!
Sleepy Cat Pictures the black gunk is carbon build up from the exhaust fumes re-circling, it’s not very healthy for the engine so I would highly recommend doing the EGR delete, it’s not expensive and easy to do and it does slightly feel more responsive too 👍
Did mine today thanks for video it did help but what a pig of a job to do , couldnt have been in a worse area , minent be a big easy if it was lifted on garage ramp s , because laid under trying to see and undo the three bolts what go through the idler and hold the alternator in place 😣, and wire was a nightmare but its done now so thanks m8
Yes, undoing the whole bracket was a mistake. I had to suspend the alternator on a piece of wire held by Freda when refitting it. Awful job but quite satisfying!
The belt tensioner is held on with a single 14mm bolt. You need a 12 point socket to remove it. The alternator pivot bolt I’d. T50 torx head. Be careful not to lose the rubber O ring from the oil feed pipe at the head and the two copper washers at the alternator. I’ve done a couple now, you should be able to get it out and back in in forty minutes
Yes, plenty of practice does speed things up!
Isn't it recommended you replace this tiny o-ring (probably Viton/FKM)?
Peter McLaren: How do you release the wires from the rear of the alternator? mine just will not unclip, is there a locking device on the plug? And my wiring tails have only 2 wires, the new alternator has 3 pins? Chris B.
Sorry to add comments sleepy. I think the mire details the better. I hope you didn't mind.
Good luck and stay safe matey.
No problem, it could have been a better video!
I remember doing this job... I brought a new alternator then realised you can get the stator repair packs... I made a mistake when putting on the main wire I got washers around the wrong way. it ended up arching out and melting main harness. needless to say this was an expensive repair....
Ouch! That sounds nasty. I repaired mine but have not tried it yet because I couldn't be bothered to change it back. I'll look at that before re-fitting!
Don't know if anyone else has said this but I've done this job tonight, all from up top. Remove the LH thread pulley bolt from the tensioner. The lower alternator bolt slides right out.
Yes, that's good. I did not have to take off the whole bracket, but I did. And it was a pain to refit!
Thanks for this!
Intestinal. Yes I think it was 13 mil. Be careful as it an oil feed union. Be sure you have the 2 copper washers.
Intestinal. If I remember. The servo hose is just a jubilee clip. As for the oil feed pipe I disconnected at the top of the head and took it away so save damaging. The one to watch for is the small hose at the base. Return oil feed. This you must insert into as you are putting the new alternator back in. Be sure to do up the clip tight.. Good luck
@@kevdavis3207 Thanks so much Kev!!! Removed oil feed at the head rather than at the alternator (copper washers) as you said. Read you must replace the tiny o-ring on the oil feed at the head - did you do that? Jubilee clip at vacuum hose connection to alternator must be covered in oil/dirt - couldn't see it! Thanks again Kev!
Thinking maybe oil is leaking from here??? Oil feed hose is very oily, and there is oil in the surrounding area? Maybe leaks from worn copper washers in the oil feed pipe? Just a thought, since I replaced the front camshaft oil seal a while ago, I find there is still oil in the alternator area and around the intercooler hose and battery box???
@@intestinalworm1202 no. If you remove and you will have to... The oil feed off the alternator. By now I thing you will of found the washers.
Having got the alternator free of its mounting I now find I cannot remover the wiring connection on the back plate, what secret clip holds this in place? I have pushed it, pulled it, and generally prized everything I can see without any movement, it does not help that the wires are really short! Chris B.
You mean the little plug at the back? Just a squeeze on the long side. The big red wire nut sheared off when I undid mine. As it was duff, it did not matter. This is all easier to do once the alternator is mobile. I'm sure I just squeezed and pulled.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 SCP : You are priceless! I squeezed the connector and it just popped off, I had been trying everything(except squeezing), it does not help that I could not actually see the plug, just feel it, (on the TD5 Defender), the vac pump oil feed pipe would also not come undone, it just distorted, but I put the heat gun on the spigot and finally shifted that, £120 for a new pipe ! Many thanks for your help on this! Chris B.
@@453421abcdefg12345 Good! Excellent result!
Any chance you can share that part number for the rectifier?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273664312837?hash=item3fb7aa0605:g:LkcAAOSwIkNcQznc&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsLS5uPRaDpKAwE9pB0JBYkBldWL7DM%2Bqb3FugvhkfPmz5WGS%2FR4rcHy6XgsG0MOx87RyUByvfhNe1%2Bt4rSNjYyZJQh9DotOn77LqQ7%2BQGpXrA13x3yWSE5IyUVYwqcXElBSybQPZzaPu4EV2eb%2FgsLo0UNxpRtuWXDMMDen0juX8L1pfZnuaOhcxcVA7SWVH7ZN%2BvUNHw%2B2alM4vjEngRNhkqlQfi37nqF7j08bQj2zM%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9Syg9PgYA
Wow, that's a part no and a half!
What's the difference between 10p and 15p engines? How would I know what I have?
From what I have noticed, the 15p engine has a EGR cooler on the front of the engine. The 10 does not. Mine is a 2000. I think 2002 and after are 15p.
@@sleepycatpictures1176 mine is a 2004 td5 manual with all black leather body is blue! With lots of rust!
@@foreversingle1975 Mine is scrap after the MOT, but I'm afraid rust goes with the territory, in the UK anyway. If you can afford a Jap import, those things are like new!
@@sleepycatpictures1176 how much is wrong with yours? Mine is a mot failure, but my intention is to bring it back to life. It needs major welding on the suspension mountings and a paint job as someone poured acid over it!
@@foreversingle1975 You need to go back and check some of my other videos. The one where I talk about 'Buying a Disco 2 Unwisely' It explains the number of engines and heads and all the other stuff I've had to replace. The MOT finished me off. This has been a bad Disco from the start. I've had enough.
How did you remove the vacuum line from the brake booster - did you just pull it out? Don't want to break it!
Don't pull it from the servo. Disconnect it from the alternator
@@kevdavis3207 Looked like in the video it was pulled out of the brake servo??? Is it screwed onto the alternator with a nut Kev? Do you know size (covered in dirt and hard to see)? Just take off with an open-end spanner then?
To be honest, I can't remember. I think I disconnected the pipe at the servo end and one little connection and removed it with the alternator. The servo end just comes out with a wriggle and a pull, then a little smear of vaseline to refit.
blimey how long did that belt last ?
I spotted it needed changing during the alternator job, from what I can remember!
Spend another ten mins removing battery box. You will find you have masses of room.
Good idea. Next time!