@@EpicNinjaRides of course I have.. But Stephan can only cover so much. Germany is an incredibly productive and diverse economy, so someone who can get more into the weeds of German products and bring them to the attention of English speakers is always welcome.
Personally, I use PAHT-CF from Bambu Lab, which is essentially PA12 (instead of PA6). For best dimensional tolerance, I use a heat-controlled build chamber. As far as drying is concerned: the out-of-package humidity of the material is terrible (in my case), so I always dry the material when coming out of a fresh package. Thank you for your video!
My first two rolls of ASA from Bambu needed drying. Probably a good practice to always do that for anything other than PLA. I'm not sure about PETG, but I did dry them too.
I extensively use PAHT CF as well. I produce large high temperature electronics testing rigs. As long as it’s dry, it prints well. What print settings do you use? I’ve had great success at 275C, 25% cooling fan speed, with dynamic overhang extra cooling fan speeds, 110 bed temp, no glue stick needed, 50C chamber temp
@@SLA-3D I print on Bambu lab X1E.: Chamber temp 60degC, plate temp 100degC, nozzle temp 290degC, smooth high temp plate with Magigo glue for PA. Drying is essential. I keep drying (Sunlu S2) while printing. Despite chamber and plate heating, I still have some warping. Any ideas for parameter mods are welcome
@@vsijbenI do get about 4% shrinkage in all directions but I do print it fast at 200mm/s. If I print slower it reduces it a bit, but I just compensate in the model geometry.
I'm curious to see how this filament compares to other PA-CF filaments, I recently tried some Eryone PA12-CF and got good results but haven't done any kind of strength testing on it.
Just stumbled across this channel and have now subscribed. Great content and whilst technically challenging for myself to understand the testing aspects, I find it very addictive to watch. I am a DIY 3D printer user, so I am always on the lookout for interesting videos on the subject.
Thank you. Would you mind thinking of adding some UV resistivity tests. Sun melts and fracture plastic. Are F3 PA-CF parts in space for a short time, or expected to hold hard UV well?
Your way of measuring creep is mostly alright for hobby purposes because it's a real-world benchmark. The main drawback is that you can't accumulate results over time because you need to retest all plastics that you have, and it's almost impossible to reproduce the numbers. It might generate noisy results if you use old spools against new spools. Also, the drawback is that you can't repeat the results for better statistical accuracy. Technically, you can, but it won't be as precise as it could be.
Great comparison and I agree with your statement that it's not a good idea to compare prices. By the way - where did you found those metal M4? inlays to tighten the screws?
Thank you - very happy to hear that! You probably mean the threaded inserts, try searching for ”heat set inserts”. Hope that’s what you’re looking for.
Thank you! I just started this channel a few days ago and this is my second video. There will be more videos every week and you can watch my German videos with EN captions on my channel called JanTec.
I wanted to 3d print a custom server case that used an HVAC like air-duct to allow triple 360mm rads or triple 480 mm rads to pull plenty of fresh air through the rads. I worried about the rigidity with previous plastics, but i'll probably go with this material. Thank you for showing it off.
Here you can find the filament (worldwide shipping): www.prusa3d.com/de/produkt/fiberthree-f3-pa-cf-pro-15-carbon-fiber-filament-500g/#a_aid=jantec (affiliate)
i noticed you had a thread insert on one of the parts you showed. can you link one that you recommend one that is good? the one i use come loose so easily
I really look forward to the video concerning creep, as that is the big concern with using Nylon in structural applications. I do think it should be a part of every filament test video in the future, if you figure out a repeatable and precise testing method. Cheers from Vienna!
I've worked in polymer injection molding for 30 years. We couldn't keep the material dry from dryer to moisture tester even in a Sealed Kerr Jar. Somehow, no way to keep the material dry once the container is opened. Polymer seems to absorb the water almost instantly once container is opened. I needed to dry material down to 40 dew point over 2 hours before I could mold product with the highest performance results. What filament dryer can dry down to this level? Very interested!
Is sufficent to have only the hardened nozzle or the all metal hot end and extruder gears? I have a Kobra 2 with hardened nozzle but I'm thinking about buying the upgraded metal hot end with extruder gears. I need to print some brackets for a mtb of my soon, i tried with PETG, but they broke betwen layers so I was thinking about using PA-CF filament for the brackets. How about layer adhesion? Did you made any test in this way?
Hey Jan, have you tested any PLA tough variants of PLA, such as Overture's Super PLA +? And if so, could you comment on the comparison of layer adhesion strength of these 2 materials?
This looks like a great alternative to the Essentium HTN-CF25 I've been using. According to the TDS the Essentium is about 30% stronger but it's nearly twice as expensive. That makes sense for our engineering lab but not for my own personal use.
I am wondering a good drying setup for these? I ordered a bunch of the Bambu PPA-CF, and it says you need Drying Settings (Blast Drying Oven) 100 - 140°C, 8 - 12 h .. not sure about this lol
Hello ! What is the name of the machine/brand of the first mentioned continuous filament drying system ? Is it working good ? Thanks for your feedback.
@@JanTecEngineering okay thanks ! So it works as an in line dryer for all types of filament ? I assume the one you are showing during the movie is yours ?
Before you guys ruin your printers, carbon fiber strands in these type of polymers will never perform even close to carbon fiber + a thermosetting polymer like Unsaturated polyester resin or Epoxy resin. Instead print the mold in a thermoplastic material like cheap PLA . Spray the mold with Poly Vinyl Alcohol or even Hairspray since its often based on PVA. When the PVA has dried, wet the mold with one layer of polyester/epoxy with a paintbrush then lay up the cut carbon fiber weave, twill if you your model contains alot of curvature, if its flat use plain carbon fiber wave. wet it out with the same paint brush and you are done. You only need a vacuum if you want to maximize stiffness/weight ratio. Even without vacuum this will still outperform pretty much every other material on the market.
Great tests (almost perfect I would say ;) ), y0u got yourself a subscriber and I hope y0u will do a lot more of these (PC material from the same company would be very interesting)!
Hi, I would like to know, is there material for 3D printer that can print intake manifold of the car? It is high temperature, but not nearly as high as exhaust manifold. I would say temp. is not more than 120-150 C.
yeah that would be way better, or just give it a think layer for fiberglass/carbonfiber after you've gone over it with a layer of epoxy/polyester. I often make parts out of real woven carbon fiber,+Epoxy/polyester i never needed to print anything other than PLA in the printer so far. I even make molds out of it, i think its easier. hand layup a part you printed only takes a matter of minutes, and only needs a paint brush or a small roller pretty much (i print all roller tools from PLA too).
@@JanTecEngineering It is worth it. We use Essentium's HTN-CF25 at work to replace aluminum CNC'd parts, that stuff is insane and super easy to print but way above hobby-level in terms of cost...but much cheaper and much, much faster than paying a machine shop to mill parts.
I have a request: could you also profile some of the sustainable plastics, recycled plastics etc? 3D printing has such potential to be part of the solution to changing plastic use, but so far TH-cam channels mostly print junk and make lots of plastic waste in the process. I love CNC kitchen and Nathan Builds Robots for the passion in engineering, but I am lacking a source of insight on printing sustainably as well as functionally. FYI I have just bought my first 3D printer, a Qidi Q1 Pro. My intention is to only use sustainable or recycled filaments, such as Filamentum's nylon and nylon-CF made room recycled fishing nets. I have also bought some NonOilen. And I plan to use recycled tyre TPUs. I'm on the lookout for other recycled and biodegradable filaments. I realise a problem for a TH-cam channel is people are generally not looking for this sort of video, but I think someone needs to show some leadership on TH-cam.
Thanks for your comment. That's exactly how I think about it and I work a lot with recycled filaments myself. I have already tested the Filllamentum Fishy PA6 on my German channel and will upload the video in English on this channel next week. Unfortunately, you're right, most people don't care about recycling or sustainability, which is why these videos are much less viewed. I don't know where in the world you live, but here are a few recommendations for 100% recycled filaments I use: Reflow Filament Nobufil (www.nobufil.com/?ref=JanTec (aff)) Qitech (I think it's EU only though): I made a video about their recycled PA6-GF: th-cam.com/video/IlpHwnJ_94A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SGUh_ajtTunZX0Ts (DE, check captions). Hope that helped.
@@JanTecEngineering many thanks for your reply. Fishy PA6 is actually made in UK for Fillamentum, from recycled fishing nets, alongside Orca - their new PA6-CF product, which I have. I look forward to watching your review. I'm also using NonOilen from Fillamemtum. And I use EcoPLA for prototyping, which is made from industrial waste. I've ordered some Addigy F2045 Black which is a TPC that uses 50% recycled ingredients. I'd like to try some flexibles made of recycled tyres in future. I'm also looking into recycling of my 3d printing waste. There are some free and paid PLA recycling options in UK, but otherwise the infrastructure is not yet there outside of industrial use.
@@rkwjunior2298"as good" isn't really a thing. Fillers in filament do have the issue of usually weakening the layer adhesion, thus weakening most parts in at least one plane, but they also stiffen the material significantly. Your application will determine which if either is what you want to use.
Ist ja aber auch um für andere Anwendungen in der Industrie z.b. Wenn man ein Benchy aus Alu fräsen würde wäre der Preis auch das 20 fache eines aus 0815 Pla 🤷🏻♂️
@@alex_rs6v10 Ja, natürlich gibt es mit Kohle- und Glasfaser verstärkte Produkte, die auch sonst teurer sind. Aber auch da komme ich üblicherweise mit 60 EUR/kg aus, selbst von einer Marke wie Bambulab. Ich hätte mir das Video erspart, wenn ich gewusst hätte, dass ich über 100 EUR/kg liege, daher mein Kommentar.
Need to throw PET cf, and especially PC Cf (a TRUE pc, not the vast majority of PC filaments that are mixed with all sorts of other filaments and admixtures to lower melting temp so more people can print it on less capable machines- those can be quite good but still SUCK compared to a true pure PC CF. It beats nylon handily.
Hatte das vor ein paar Monaten auf meinem deutschen Kanal hochgeladen. Nun kommen hier nach und nach ausgewählte Videos auf Englisch, bitte nicht wundern.
Carbon fiber filaments should never ever be used for something you eill touch with your hands as those fibers arent all stuck amd a lot get permanently imprinted deep in your skin from normal handling of tje peinted parts.
you act as if all filaments are tlike that which is not the case, most filaments are made by morons in terrible condition with terrible engineers (if at all) on terrible machiens. to say the least
@@JanTecEngineering The microphone can only do so much. The echo is coming from the poor room acoustics. It sounds like you are recording this in a locker room. You have to cover the hard walls with some sound absorbing material, acoustic foam, carpet, heavy pleated curtains, or such.
If you really need the properties (temperature resistance, strength, stiffness) it can definitely be worth it. But you should get a large scale drying oven then.
@@JanTecEngineering you can't Believe me i have no evidence. but There Are dozens other videos testing cf And they Always come to result that pla Is stronger. Well maybe this cf Is stronger but Its not sold in my country So i dont buy cf anymore because pla Is better.
Subscribe or your nozzle will clog!
Thanks. Non German speaking world would not know about this without your video.👍
What ? 😂
Have you not heard of CNC Kitchen?
@@EpicNinjaRides of course I have.. But Stephan can only cover so much. Germany is an incredibly productive and diverse economy, so someone who can get more into the weeds of German products and bring them to the attention of English speakers is always welcome.
@@sirrodneyffing1 you should learn german.
@@ja-no6fx Nobody will do that. There's no point. I'm sorry, it's just a fact.
Great work! I really like the PolyMaker PA6-CF as well.
How will it compare to the Bambu labs new PPF-CF?
Personally, I use PAHT-CF from Bambu Lab, which is essentially PA12 (instead of PA6). For best dimensional tolerance, I use a heat-controlled build chamber.
As far as drying is concerned: the out-of-package humidity of the material is terrible (in my case), so I always dry the material when coming out of a fresh package.
Thank you for your video!
Bambu labs drying wiki page says that every material other than PLA and PETG require drying before use.
My first two rolls of ASA from Bambu needed drying. Probably a good practice to always do that for anything other than PLA. I'm not sure about PETG, but I did dry them too.
I extensively use PAHT CF as well. I produce large high temperature electronics testing rigs. As long as it’s dry, it prints well. What print settings do you use?
I’ve had great success at 275C, 25% cooling fan speed, with dynamic overhang extra cooling fan speeds, 110 bed temp, no glue stick needed, 50C chamber temp
@@SLA-3D I print on Bambu lab X1E.:
Chamber temp 60degC, plate temp 100degC, nozzle temp 290degC,
smooth high temp plate with Magigo glue for PA.
Drying is essential. I keep drying (Sunlu S2) while printing.
Despite chamber and plate heating, I still have some warping. Any ideas for parameter mods are welcome
@@vsijbenI do get about 4% shrinkage in all directions but I do print it fast at 200mm/s. If I print slower it reduces it a bit, but I just compensate in the model geometry.
I'm curious to see how this filament compares to other PA-CF filaments, I recently tried some Eryone PA12-CF and got good results but haven't done any kind of strength testing on it.
Just stumbled across this channel and have now subscribed. Great content and whilst technically challenging for myself to understand the testing aspects, I find it very addictive to watch. I am a DIY 3D printer user, so I am always on the lookout for interesting videos on the subject.
Thank you so much!
Bambu Labs PPA-CF just released has the strongest specs ive ever seen.
about the creep test, im more concerned with creep in compression maybe the test should be performed by clamping or so. good video
Great video, informative and to the point, subscribed!❤
Thank you!
Thank you. Would you mind thinking of adding some UV resistivity tests. Sun melts and fracture plastic. Are F3 PA-CF parts in space for a short time, or expected to hold hard UV well?
Hey Korolexa, the part was only on a ballistic trajectory more or less in an 90° angle. So flight time was only minutes.
Your way of measuring creep is mostly alright for hobby purposes because it's a real-world benchmark.
The main drawback is that you can't accumulate results over time because you need to retest all plastics that you have, and it's almost impossible to reproduce the numbers. It might generate noisy results if you use old spools against new spools. Also, the drawback is that you can't repeat the results for better statistical accuracy. Technically, you can, but it won't be as precise as it could be.
Great comparison and I agree with your statement that it's not a good idea to compare prices. By the way - where did you found those metal M4? inlays to tighten the screws?
Thank you - very happy to hear that!
You probably mean the threaded inserts, try searching for ”heat set inserts”. Hope that’s what you’re looking for.
I see you use the Textured PEI sheet, do you apply the glue also there or only at the Smooth sheet?
Very informing, I'm glad youtube suggested this to me, subscribing right now, waiting new videos. Keep up!
Thank you!
I just started this channel a few days ago and this is my second video. There will be more videos every week and you can watch my German videos with EN captions on my channel called JanTec.
@@JanTecEngineering I loved the one of your latest video about big DIY 3D printer, will definitely check others.
I wanted to 3d print a custom server case that used an HVAC like air-duct to allow triple 360mm rads or triple 480 mm rads to pull plenty of fresh air through the rads. I worried about the rigidity with previous plastics, but i'll probably go with this material. Thank you for showing it off.
ASA should be fine and much cheaper.
Here you can find the filament (worldwide shipping):
www.prusa3d.com/de/produkt/fiberthree-f3-pa-cf-pro-15-carbon-fiber-filament-500g/#a_aid=jantec (affiliate)
Ccol review! Did you compare the mechanical properties of the printed parts right after they were printed also?
Thank you! I did not. I guess there would be a significant difference.
Awesome video. I think this would be a great material for robotic / drone applications. Cheers😎
Great video. Would be nice to have a link for that carbon fiber build plate
Great video! Saudations from Portugal. You should test the PolyMaker Polylite PC (Polycarbonate), its a really strong filament
Thanks! Actually, I have the Polymaker PC sitting on my table for quite a while waiting to be tested. Hopefully I'll get to testing it soon!
i noticed you had a thread insert on one of the parts you showed. can you link one that you recommend one that is good? the one i use come loose so easily
I really look forward to the video concerning creep, as that is the big concern with using Nylon in structural applications. I do think it should be a part of every filament test video in the future, if you figure out a repeatable and precise testing method. Cheers from Vienna!
How does this filament compare to bambu labs PA CF
Bambu lab not create filament 😅 is sunlu bambulab and this is standard ue vs standard china
@@godbnc your saying bambulab filament is basically sunlu filament rebranded
@@mrdriver511 yes
@@mrdriver511yes
An interesting video, however I cant relate MPa (unit of pressure) to Kilograms required to break the samples.
I am in Australia.
Would you happen to have a link where the carbon fiber build plate from Fiber Three can be purchased? I would love one of these for my Prusa.
Would this work well with the bamboo x1c
I've worked in polymer injection molding for 30 years. We couldn't keep the material dry from dryer to moisture tester even in a Sealed Kerr Jar. Somehow, no way to keep the material dry once the container is opened. Polymer seems to absorb the water almost instantly once container is opened. I needed to dry material down to 40 dew point over 2 hours before I could mold product with the highest performance results.
What filament dryer can dry down to this level? Very interested!
Is sufficent to have only the hardened nozzle or the all metal hot end and extruder gears? I have a Kobra 2 with hardened nozzle but I'm thinking about buying the upgraded metal hot end with extruder gears. I need to print some brackets for a mtb of my soon, i tried with PETG, but they broke betwen layers so I was thinking about using PA-CF filament for the brackets.
How about layer adhesion? Did you made any test in this way?
Have you tried the Spectrum PA6 low warp CF15s? I have yet to try this filament, but the spectrum stuff has been significantly better than the rest.
I never had Spectrum but heard a lot of positive about their filaments. Might try them out in the future!
@@JanTecEngineering give it a try, because it's like half the cost of this filament. 110cad for 1kg vs like 130cad for 500g of the F3.
Would be good to see this compared to aluminum test pieces of the same models
I am interested in fumes as my printer is in my living room. Any observations regarding fumes please?
Hey Jan, have you tested any PLA tough variants of PLA, such as Overture's Super PLA +? And if so, could you comment on the comparison of layer adhesion strength of these 2 materials?
In my country they make CF-PA6 and sell it for 30 dollars so is it real CFPA or not
This looks like a great alternative to the Essentium HTN-CF25 I've been using. According to the TDS the Essentium is about 30% stronger but it's nearly twice as expensive. That makes sense for our engineering lab but not for my own personal use.
Thanks, very interesting topic ;)
Could you test bamboo labs new PPACF?
Very interesting!
Thanks for sharing 😁👍
I am wondering a good drying setup for these? I ordered a bunch of the Bambu PPA-CF, and it says you need Drying Settings (Blast Drying Oven) 100 - 140°C, 8 - 12 h .. not sure about this lol
Ha! I lived in Dharmstadt for several years. Small world.
Der Haken wieviel Prozent infill hatte der?
40%, aber 5 oder 6 Perimeter.
Thanks for sharing
Hello ! What is the name of the machine/brand of the first mentioned continuous filament drying system ? Is it working good ? Thanks for your feedback.
Hello, the device is called Drywise and comes from Thought3D. It works well, but it’s quite expensive.
@@JanTecEngineering okay thanks ! So it works as an in line dryer for all types of filament ? I assume the one you are showing during the movie is yours ?
Please i have k1 max what nozzle and hotbed temperature please for pla carbon like you use
Before you guys ruin your printers, carbon fiber strands in these type of polymers will never perform even close to carbon fiber + a thermosetting polymer like Unsaturated polyester resin or Epoxy resin. Instead print the mold in a thermoplastic material like cheap PLA . Spray the mold with Poly Vinyl Alcohol or even Hairspray since its often based on PVA. When the PVA has dried, wet the mold with one layer of polyester/epoxy with a paintbrush then lay up the cut carbon fiber weave, twill if you your model contains alot of curvature, if its flat use plain carbon fiber wave. wet it out with the same paint brush and you are done. You only need a vacuum if you want to maximize stiffness/weight ratio. Even without vacuum this will still outperform pretty much every other material on the market.
Great tests (almost perfect I would say ;) ), y0u got yourself a subscriber and I hope y0u will do a lot more of these (PC material from the same company would be very interesting)!
Does it shed nano fibers from the printed parts?
almost anything does that, i think you mean small fibers not nano fibers
@@JohnSmith-pn2vl Yes. Nano fibers that get stuck in your lungs, eyes. th-cam.com/video/RLt9l6YxvHk/w-d-xo.html
great topic, thanks👍
Prusa Polycarbonate Blend Carbon Fiber is pretty freaken strong.
Does it require an enclosure?
Not necessarily, I had very good prints on an unenclosed printer.
Hi, I would like to know, is there material for 3D printer that can print intake manifold of the car? It is high temperature, but not nearly as high as exhaust manifold. I would say temp. is not more than 120-150 C.
Polymaker PA-6 CF annealed.
$1,900 for a filament dryer is WILD
1850 dollars more expensive than my 40 degree min temp air fryer lolololol
You can buy a 3D printer for that price 😂😂
PVDF Filament is 500€ on a kilogram, but it's properties are highly recommended for corosive ambients, so it's not comparable.
I would coat the parts with 2 component Epoxyd for more strength.
yeah that would be way better, or just give it a think layer for fiberglass/carbonfiber after you've gone over it with a layer of epoxy/polyester. I often make parts out of real woven carbon fiber,+Epoxy/polyester i never needed to print anything other than PLA in the printer so far. I even make molds out of it, i think its easier. hand layup a part you printed only takes a matter of minutes, and only needs a paint brush or a small roller pretty much (i print all roller tools from PLA too).
I would probably dislocate my shoulder to prove that I can break that part in the end. 😅
Haha. If you meet me at a 3d printing event and break the hook, you win a spool of filament.
$86 for 500gr, right...
I know - it is expensive. But IMO definitely worth it for demanding applications!
@@JanTecEngineering It is worth it. We use Essentium's HTN-CF25 at work to replace aluminum CNC'd parts, that stuff is insane and super easy to print but way above hobby-level in terms of cost...but much cheaper and much, much faster than paying a machine shop to mill parts.
@@circleofowls wanna try out material? we cross tested HTN and our PA-CF Pro is stronger and stiffer
Hallo JanTec, ich bin Materialprüfer für Kunststoffe und kann dir evt Tipps für dein Test Setup geben! Melde dich bei Interesse. LG Christian
I have a request: could you also profile some of the sustainable plastics, recycled plastics etc? 3D printing has such potential to be part of the solution to changing plastic use, but so far TH-cam channels mostly print junk and make lots of plastic waste in the process. I love CNC kitchen and Nathan Builds Robots for the passion in engineering, but I am lacking a source of insight on printing sustainably as well as functionally.
FYI I have just bought my first 3D printer, a Qidi Q1 Pro. My intention is to only use sustainable or recycled filaments, such as Filamentum's nylon and nylon-CF made room recycled fishing nets. I have also bought some NonOilen. And I plan to use recycled tyre TPUs. I'm on the lookout for other recycled and biodegradable filaments. I realise a problem for a TH-cam channel is people are generally not looking for this sort of video, but I think someone needs to show some leadership on TH-cam.
Thanks for your comment.
That's exactly how I think about it and I work a lot with recycled filaments myself.
I have already tested the Filllamentum Fishy PA6 on my German channel and will upload the video in English on this channel next week.
Unfortunately, you're right, most people don't care about recycling or sustainability, which is why these videos are much less viewed.
I don't know where in the world you live, but here are a few recommendations for 100% recycled filaments I use:
Reflow Filament
Nobufil (www.nobufil.com/?ref=JanTec (aff))
Qitech (I think it's EU only though):
I made a video about their recycled PA6-GF: th-cam.com/video/IlpHwnJ_94A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SGUh_ajtTunZX0Ts (DE, check captions).
Hope that helped.
@@JanTecEngineering many thanks for your reply. Fishy PA6 is actually made in UK for Fillamentum, from recycled fishing nets, alongside Orca - their new PA6-CF product, which I have. I look forward to watching your review.
I'm also using NonOilen from Fillamemtum. And I use EcoPLA for prototyping, which is made from industrial waste. I've ordered some Addigy F2045 Black which is a TPC that uses 50% recycled ingredients. I'd like to try some flexibles made of recycled tyres in future.
I'm also looking into recycling of my 3d printing waste. There are some free and paid PLA recycling options in UK, but otherwise the infrastructure is not yet there outside of industrial use.
ich wohne in Griesheim fahr da jeden tag dran vorbei und wusste nichts davon :)
Until I see a side by side test of the filament with carbon fiber and the same plastic minus the CF, I don't believe the CF makes any difference
Plenty of people have done that test. Cf gives more rigidity.
Yes @@jamesm3268, but only a Little more
What next you won't believe the earth is round until you see it next to a flat planet ??
@@jamesm3268Many videos have shown it's not as good as plain old PLA.
@@rkwjunior2298"as good" isn't really a thing. Fillers in filament do have the issue of usually weakening the layer adhesion, thus weakening most parts in at least one plane, but they also stiffen the material significantly. Your application will determine which if either is what you want to use.
Die Website reagierte gerade nicht. Das Filament habe ich für 130 EUR/kg gefunden. Das ist über 6 mal teurer als PLA.
Ist ja aber auch um für andere Anwendungen in der Industrie z.b.
Wenn man ein Benchy aus Alu fräsen würde wäre der Preis auch das 20 fache eines aus 0815 Pla 🤷🏻♂️
@@alex_rs6v10 Ja, natürlich gibt es mit Kohle- und Glasfaser verstärkte Produkte, die auch sonst teurer sind. Aber auch da komme ich üblicherweise mit 60 EUR/kg aus, selbst von einer Marke wie Bambulab.
Ich hätte mir das Video erspart, wenn ich gewusst hätte, dass ich über 100 EUR/kg liege, daher mein Kommentar.
@@alex_rs6v10 also einen benchy kann man nicht fräsen und das material ist drecksbillig.
@@JohnSmith-pn2vl natürlich könnte man das an na 5 Achs Fräse aber würde halt kein Sinn machen und 500€ kosten
Need to throw PET cf, and especially PC Cf (a TRUE pc, not the vast majority of PC filaments that are mixed with all sorts of other filaments and admixtures to lower melting temp so more people can print it on less capable machines- those can be quite good but still SUCK compared to a true pure PC CF. It beats nylon handily.
Imagine suffering from nylon creep with an 8x more expensive filament
thia comment is made by just print ASA at sufficiently high temperature gang
Made in Darmstadt
Ist das ein reupload
Hatte das vor ein paar Monaten auf meinem deutschen Kanal hochgeladen. Nun kommen hier nach und nach ausgewählte Videos auf Englisch, bitte nicht wundern.
@@JanTecEngineering ah hab ich mir fast gedacht. Studierst du an der Tu Maschinenbau oder mawi?
Nein, studiere dort Elektrotechnik
@@JanTecEngineering ah dachte die Stimme kommt mir bekannt vor, kannte da auch einen Jan aber das passt dann nicht
Does anyone reference MPa in Real life?
Grüße aus Germany. We say Daaaarrmstadt
Liebe Grüße zurück!
Or "Colon City" for our English speaking friends.
The price is stupid expensive unfortunatly , better get jlcpcb to print it or cnc it metal
They charge much more
Carbon fiber filaments should never ever be used for something you eill touch with your hands as those fibers arent all stuck amd a lot get permanently imprinted deep in your skin from normal handling of tje peinted parts.
you act as if all filaments are tlike that which is not the case, most filaments are made by morons in terrible condition with terrible engineers (if at all) on terrible machiens.
to say the least
Your Microphone is almost killing this video. try getting it further from your mouth or try one of the cheap 8€ lavalier mics of amazon
You‘re absolutely right. I just got myself the Rode Pro Mic. I really hope this will improve my audio quality.
@@JanTecEngineering The microphone can only do so much. The echo is coming from the poor room acoustics. It sounds like you are recording this in a locker room. You have to cover the hard walls with some sound absorbing material, acoustic foam, carpet, heavy pleated curtains, or such.
hooooo $230 per kg
Your audio makes this video unpalatable.
Constructive feedback
🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼😎☮️🍀
hi jantec, I suggest viewing the 13 part series _what on earth happened_ in my about to learn how the earth is not a globe
PA-CF is too hydroscopic and expensive for large scale printing.
If you really need the properties (temperature resistance, strength, stiffness) it can definitely be worth it. But you should get a large scale drying oven then.
pla is stronger
Which PLA do you mean?
I tested a lot of brands, all of them having around 60 MPa strength, which is way less.
@@JanTecEngineering any pla is stronger than any cf i printed. i did not print the f3 tho but I still think its just an ad. 😁
@@Maschine_Fuhrer It's not an ad.
Which PA6-CF did you print that was weaker than PLA?
@@JanTecEngineering you can't Believe me i have no evidence. but There Are dozens other videos testing cf And they Always come to result that pla Is stronger. Well maybe this cf Is stronger but Its not sold in my country So i dont buy cf anymore because pla Is better.