For any woman considering grading their pattern to a larger size, please please please! bear in mind that your entire pattern may not need to be graded! If you carry all your weight in your hips, tummy, or bust, your shoulders may not need grading! If I were to grade a shoulder to match my hip size, my finished garment shoulder seam would land well below my shoulder. Bigger Hips/Tummy does not equal wide shoulders in most cases! It's OK to have a pattern with a size 14 shoulder and size 22 hip. That's why we sew - so we can get this custom fit!
Where have you been all my life! Thank you for this video and recognizing that everyone isn’t a size 4!!! Can’t wait to get your book! Congratulations!
This was educational and really illustrates why grading up for larger sizes does not always work well. For instance I am quite tall and in my younger days very thin. Now in clothing I wear a size 22, which is a 26 or 28 in sewing sizes. Using this method to grade up a pattern I would end up with shoulders that are way too wide for me. My shoulders are no wider than when I was thin...
Thanks, Nick for another fabulous video of grading up to a size 22. I might mention since the pattern is symmetrical, I would tell the audience that you can fold the paper at center front c.f. then trace for the other side instead of spending the time grading. Um, I didn't make it as a patternmaker in the 1980s. I was told I was too slow slthough my patterns came out almost perfect. LOL
For me this just illustrated why off-the-peg size grading serves the customer so poorly: there's a horrible compromise going on between grading for anatomical body size and grading for the amount of body fat carried - certainly in women's bodies, there are fewer women with bodies that are structurally very large for anatomical reasons, and lots of us whose bodies are wider and rounder due to body fat carried. Dropping the waist for these larger sizes serves no purpose - it's not enough for the women who are born to be tall and wide, and for those of us carrying more body fat, the distance from our shoulders to waist does not get bigger with weight gain, and wearing clothing with the wrong body length is dreadfully unflattering. We really need (at least) two systems, one for Long Tall Sallies and another for Big Round Berthas, focusing on the relevant vertical measurements.
Thank you so much for this video Nick! I realize where I was making mistakes in grading up my patterns in the past! Thank you Thank you for doing the curvy sizes!
Very interesting! I happen to wear "plus" or "curvy" sizes, so it's nice to be acknowledged - ha! Now I need to go back and watch your previous videos. I've just found you on TH-cam. Your grading guide will really come in handy the next time I buy a vintage designer pattern (thinking of Issey Miyake now) that was printed before they made multiple-size patterns, thereby eliminating any "go-by" lines I might have been able to use in the process. Thanks very much, Annette
I absolutely love your videos. I am very young and my bff and I wanna start making dresses and your videos a re a huge help and just wanna say thx for all the tips and tricks❤❤
We are listening, you are teaching, thanks Nick. I'm playing with vintage patterns that are so amazing, but a size 16 from 1950 to a size 16 today needs grading. Wish me luck.
Nick, where you at? I'm back again. I'm doing a 1966 dress size 34 and using your system to draft my size 18. There's adjustments and such, but it's a good base to start. But I need you to tell me again the steps, ya I wrote it down, but you going over it again for me helps me out better. Bye/
Thank you so much - I have been hoping you would cover grading for beautiful curvy shapes! I have ordered your book from UK Amazon (hardback) I am so looking forward to receiving it. Love watching your videos> I have learnt so much from you. Thank you xx
Thank you also how to enlarge facings but it would be nice to have the camera overhead shot so we could see the details better for neck and shoulder shots but I found this helpful
What you've done here is just basic extended sizing -- which results in too-wide shoulders, weird armhole shapes, and unflattering fit in the bust. Patterns need to be re-worked for a true plus size fit, not just extended all around. There are a lot of ways that a size 4 body is different than a size 22, and this style of grading doesn't account for any of them. You'll generally also need to add a bust dart, princess seam, or back darts to get a proper fit.
THIS. Glad someone pointed this out. Nested sizing from a Missy pattern creates ill fitting plus size garments. Womens sizing needs their own separately graded size set, grading up & down from a 2X/20w 22w or 3x/24w 26w (or even 4x depending upon how many sizes you're covering).
This is why I don't use patterns. I cut from garments that fit well, and make adjustments. Being plus size AND tall, nothing from a store fits. It was quicker and less frustrating to teach myself to sew and make my own clothes.
I think he was giving an overview, but the extend sizes to need more consideration based in fit goal and what the fit model started out as. I always like to use an actual plus size fit model for the range. It makes more sense. If the foundation is bing built of a size 6 body, it will never translate in the larger sizes properly. 3d design platforms can only show you an idea of fit, but you can't use them for doing the pattern work. It's a lot more complex.
Thank you, Nick. My class only touched base on this subject for one day. She made everything about it out to be such a daunting task. I never really understood in.
Lola Christy pick up a book called the essentials of grading. It's a work book that helps. One thing to understand is grading method changes as you get into a 26, 28, 30, 32 and so in. This is because the human bodies science of weight allocation becomes more individual due to the health considerations such as hormones, vascular strain, body movement in one area to another. I tend to measure each size past a 26. Then I will create my own grading to find the best jump ratio.
What about from a 20 to a 32? And how much do you grade up in the bust area? Im making a strapless wedding dress and the pattern goes up to a size 20 and i need a 32
The problem with a lot of plus size cloths and patterns is the arm pits are too big and they gap. The waist also tilts differently as women age and at different sizing.
Yaaaaas! But what do you do if your body doesn't fit one size? Like, if your bust is a 16, waist is a 14, hips are a 20... how do you make them all mesh nicely? I have a smallish waist for my frame, E cup bust (currently breastfeeding) and huge hips, and nothing I make for myself, or buy for that matter, really fits all of those areas at once... I hate shopping for clothes and generally wear oversized t-shirts and yoga pants because im just so frustrated with clothes....
I have a big waist to hip ratio and nothing commercially made fits right. The best thing I did was take a workshop on using your measurements to make a sloper, a base for patterns. The instructor helped with dart placement for each students individual bodies, but there is a lot of info out on the web if you don’t have access to a workshop.
Also if you are working with a multi sized sewing pattern, make sure it has your bust size. The bust is harder to fit and draw a line to the smaller waist and then a line to the larger hip. A French curve ruler helps. It’s hard finding cloths that fit and sewing buddies to help with fitting.
I don't know if it was the correct way, but growing up mom always had patterns with multiple sizes marked on it. For the most part she would cut along the size for each body part, blending the line as she went.
Thanks Nick , i really love your teaching,so am a you tube learner, I like to know size 16 has which bust size and size 4 the same so I can start also grade mine. Thank you.
So why is that the smaller sizes were 1/8-1/4in difference vs the larger sizes were 1/4-1/2in? Is it just the difference in the sizes such as a 14 to a 16. I've been learning how to resize patterns to make clothes for myself and just doing some research.
My thing is I'm a size 20 on store bought clothes, but I'm short. I'm 5'1". A lot of plus size are too tall and keep getting longer as the size increases. I got wider, not taller.
Jen Stosser Got similar problems and it means using several grades but carefully so it blends. I know we start with the largest measure and work down size to the other measurements, your bust being smallest will have some needs with darts, arm and neck holes. I wish I could actually explain it you will need to make some cheap experiments to see what needs tweaking on the top. U Tube has a lot on this and a pattern drafting book and class would help you.
I’m a person who is oddly shaped. I’m short but plus sized, so I’m narrower in the shoulders bigger in the bust and from shoulder to bust there is almost no room. So grading for petite plus if you could please.
That's something I always have issues with. Just because we are plus size doesn't mean we get taller. I can almost never find pants that fit because they are so long. I buy capris just so I don't have to roll my pants legs.
I haven't extend sizes on a crisp tracing pattern paper since high school. but when you go from one inch a size with your sharpie pen , with1/2-1/4 inch to expand each fuller size so you can go through which size you use a matrieal shear scissors, know what grade of size when you cut the fabric.i rather use notches so when you sew a seam stitch, like simplicity did. but I had a question...
Is there a way to grade/draw the pattern for someone who is a size 16 but with a bust cup of a size 18 or 20? I know is possible to tailor the dress later but i was wondering if there is a way to draw/grade it directly in the pattern
Joanna Johnson each retailer uses a fit model and sometimes a 3d avatar. This is a method that is pretty common and used. There are also variables that change in grading beyond the size 22/24. The sizes beyond that get another jump. One thing to keep in mind is the fig model. Does the fig model shape look the same at a 16 to a 22, or does the body shift a lot more. Imaging an oval and a circle. Similar shapes but not the same.
These are pattern sizes which differ from retail clothing. The pattern size is based on your measurements. Find your measurements on the pattern envelope to locate your corresponding pattern size. Happy sewing!!
Nick my dear, I am trying to make a coat. But I am a bigger gal so I am looking to go up to 5x. I want to be comfy in my coat. Please help with those sizes as well. please please please
For any woman considering grading their pattern to a larger size, please please please! bear in mind that your entire pattern may not need to be graded! If you carry all your weight in your hips, tummy, or bust, your shoulders may not need grading! If I were to grade a shoulder to match my hip size, my finished garment shoulder seam would land well below my shoulder. Bigger Hips/Tummy does not equal wide shoulders in most cases! It's OK to have a pattern with a size 14 shoulder and size 22 hip. That's why we sew - so we can get this custom fit!
Where have you been all my life! Thank you for this video and recognizing that everyone isn’t a size 4!!! Can’t wait to get your book! Congratulations!
You make it look so easy, Nick . . . You're a wizard!
THANK YOU NICK!! Please give the big girls more please
This was educational and really illustrates why grading up for larger sizes does not always work well. For instance I am quite tall and in my younger days very thin. Now in clothing I wear a size 22, which is a 26 or 28 in sewing sizes. Using this method to grade up a pattern I would end up with shoulders that are way too wide for me. My shoulders are no wider than when I was thin...
I freaking love this, I have never had grading explained to clearly and simply, so easy to grade a size 16 to a 22/24
Nick, you explain simply and with flair! You are a very good teacher. I had to make a Folkwear pattern a little larger, and this works!! Thanks!
Thanks, Nick for another fabulous video of grading up to a size 22. I might mention since the pattern is symmetrical, I would tell the audience that you can fold the paper at center front c.f. then trace for the other side instead of spending the time grading. Um, I didn't make it as a patternmaker in the 1980s. I was told I was too slow slthough my patterns came out almost perfect. LOL
What if your pattern has a dart? Does the dart move as well? For example on a basic bodice with a bust dart?
For me this just illustrated why off-the-peg size grading serves the customer so poorly: there's a horrible compromise going on between grading for anatomical body size and grading for the amount of body fat carried - certainly in women's bodies, there are fewer women with bodies that are structurally very large for anatomical reasons, and lots of us whose bodies are wider and rounder due to body fat carried. Dropping the waist for these larger sizes serves no purpose - it's not enough for the women who are born to be tall and wide, and for those of us carrying more body fat, the distance from our shoulders to waist does not get bigger with weight gain, and wearing clothing with the wrong body length is dreadfully unflattering. We really need (at least) two systems, one for Long Tall Sallies and another for Big Round Berthas, focusing on the relevant vertical measurements.
Thank you Mr. Verreos for your time.
Hi ser this my.mobail no plij contek
Thank you Katerina! You're so sweet! XO
Nick Verreos You're welcome! Great advice and videos!
Thank you so much for this video Nick! I realize where I was making mistakes in grading up my patterns in the past! Thank you Thank you for doing the curvy sizes!
Very interesting! I happen to wear "plus" or "curvy" sizes, so it's nice to be acknowledged - ha! Now I need to go back and watch your previous videos. I've just found you on TH-cam. Your grading guide will really come in handy the next time I buy a vintage designer pattern (thinking of Issey Miyake now) that was printed before they made multiple-size patterns, thereby eliminating any "go-by" lines I might have been able to use in the process. Thanks very much, Annette
Finally a useful answer! Thank you!
Thankyou Nick Id love to see more for the big sizes and small bust big belly! Thankyou for making this easy!xxx
Thank you soooo much! You make the most difficult sewing and design seem so simple. I learn so much from you! You really should have a TV show!
Love it! Most patterns are designed for Misses sizes. You made this SSIMPLE!!!
I absolutely love your videos. I am very young and my bff and I wanna start making dresses and your videos a re a huge help and just wanna say thx for all the tips and tricks❤❤
We are listening, you are teaching, thanks Nick. I'm playing with vintage patterns that are so amazing, but a size 16 from 1950 to a size 16 today needs grading. Wish me luck.
Nick, where you at? I'm back again. I'm doing a 1966 dress size 34 and using your system to draft my size 18. There's adjustments and such, but it's a good base to start. But I need you to tell me again the steps, ya I wrote it down, but you going over it again for me helps me out better. Bye/
Love your videos!
Nick - just wanted to say this has been extremely helpful. Thank you!
This is so enlightening! I'm new to the mad world of sewing and so pleased to have found Nick so early in my descent down the rabbit hole.
Jennifer Edgar go to FIDM
Thank you so much for your precious knowledge and your share!
Thank you so much - I have been hoping you would cover grading for beautiful curvy shapes! I have ordered your book from UK Amazon (hardback) I am so looking forward to receiving it. Love watching your videos> I have learnt so much from you. Thank you xx
Love it!! So easy to follow. You are an amazing instructor!! Thank you so much!
Thank you also how to enlarge facings but it would be nice to have the camera overhead shot so we could see the details better for neck and shoulder shots but I found this helpful
What you've done here is just basic extended sizing -- which results in too-wide shoulders, weird armhole shapes, and unflattering fit in the bust. Patterns need to be re-worked for a true plus size fit, not just extended all around. There are a lot of ways that a size 4 body is different than a size 22, and this style of grading doesn't account for any of them. You'll generally also need to add a bust dart, princess seam, or back darts to get a proper fit.
THIS. Glad someone pointed this out. Nested sizing from a Missy pattern creates ill fitting plus size garments. Womens sizing needs their own separately graded size set, grading up & down from a 2X/20w 22w or 3x/24w 26w (or even 4x depending upon how many sizes you're covering).
This is why I don't use patterns. I cut from garments that fit well, and make adjustments. Being plus size AND tall, nothing from a store fits. It was quicker and less frustrating to teach myself to sew and make my own clothes.
I think he was giving an overview, but the extend sizes to need more consideration based in fit goal and what the fit model started out as. I always like to use an actual plus size fit model for the range. It makes more sense. If the foundation is bing built of a size 6 body, it will never translate in the larger sizes properly. 3d design platforms can only show you an idea of fit, but you can't use them for doing the pattern work. It's a lot more complex.
Short, good visual demo, several examples shown, great explanation, and visual of the measurements at the end? 🏆🏆🏆🏆
Thank you! I love that the fun part is going out further!
For sizes larger than 22, would you continue with those plus size numbers, or would they change again?
Thank you, Nick. My class only touched base on this subject for one day. She made everything about it out to be such a daunting task. I never really understood in.
Lola Christy it can be duanting if your really have not studied more grading books. I would recommend learning more than just the basic block example.
Lola Christy pick up a book called the essentials of grading. It's a work book that helps. One thing to understand is grading method changes as you get into a 26, 28, 30, 32 and so in. This is because the human bodies science of weight allocation becomes more individual due to the health considerations such as hormones, vascular strain, body movement in one area to another. I tend to measure each size past a 26. Then I will create my own grading to find the best jump ratio.
@@katyschildmeyerksapparelde2441 thank you so much for the advice! I'm very grateful! I got the book and a few others this morning.
@@katyschildmeyerksapparelde2441 I should not saw this morning. I just walked out of the book store.
Nice, clear video!
Wonderfully straightforward!
Wow Nick! You make want to go back to my fashion career truncated 40 years ago! You're awesome!
I learn a lot from your tutorials. Thanks.😘😘😘
Have you done any tutorials on blending sizes? That would be so helpful!
How do you grade the darts where applicable?
Hi Nick
Please make a video of more complex patterns like princess seams or darts.
Thanks!👍🏻
Rubina Shahijanyan yes please!
Thank you so much for these tutorials they are amazing! Could you show us how to structure a princess line bodice with underlining on a plus size? x
I love the way you teach.
Thank you. you make it so easy.
Omg. I was watching one of your other videos wondering this exact thing. Lo and behold you have it.
Do you have a grading trick for trousers?? Thank you for your video, I live it!! Bisous
Thank you Mr Nick .. i was searchig for that for a long time .. but what if our pattern has a darts 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Omgosh, Nick, I have just started ur video and I love it - thank you, u brighten and enlighten my day 💜
ChrisOB
What about from a 20 to a 32? And how much do you grade up in the bust area? Im making a strapless wedding dress and the pattern goes up to a size 20 and i need a 32
What changes do you make to the sleeves?
I just love your videos, I am glad I found u on youtube, u make them so easy n simple thank u, I mean thank uuuuuuuuu
Thank you soooo much. Hopefully, you will continue this to include other slopers like the sleeve sloper in the future.
The problem with a lot of plus size cloths and patterns is the arm pits are too big and they gap. The waist also tilts differently as women age and at different sizing.
Exactly Kyla. I am tired of having an armhole that is cut to my waist
Yaaaaas! But what do you do if your body doesn't fit one size? Like, if your bust is a 16, waist is a 14, hips are a 20... how do you make them all mesh nicely? I have a smallish waist for my frame, E cup bust (currently breastfeeding) and huge hips, and nothing I make for myself, or buy for that matter, really fits all of those areas at once... I hate shopping for clothes and generally wear oversized t-shirts and yoga pants because im just so frustrated with clothes....
I have a big waist to hip ratio and nothing commercially made fits right. The best thing I did was take a workshop on using your measurements to make a sloper, a base for patterns. The instructor helped with dart placement for each students individual bodies, but there is a lot of info out on the web if you don’t have access to a workshop.
Also if you are working with a multi sized sewing pattern, make sure it has your bust size. The bust is harder to fit and draw a line to the smaller waist and then a line to the larger hip. A French curve ruler helps. It’s hard finding cloths that fit and sewing buddies to help with fitting.
I don't know if it was the correct way, but growing up mom always had patterns with multiple sizes marked on it. For the most part she would cut along the size for each body part, blending the line as she went.
So if i want to go to a size 26, add half inch, on the size. Is this correct. I really enjoy watching your videos, thanks so much.
oh awesome! thank you for including us curvy girls
Thanks Nick , i really love your teaching,so am a you tube learner, I like to know size 16 has which bust size and size 4 the same so I can start also grade mine. Thank you.
So why is that the smaller sizes were 1/8-1/4in difference vs the larger sizes were 1/4-1/2in? Is it just the difference in the sizes such as a 14 to a 16. I've been learning how to resize patterns to make clothes for myself and just doing some research.
You are FANTASTIC! Thanks!
Can you recommend a good book on plus size grading of sleeves and pants? Thank you.
Love That! Thank you so much because I'm curvy.
My thing is I'm a size 20 on store bought clothes, but I'm short. I'm 5'1". A lot of plus size are too tall and keep getting longer as the size increases. I got wider, not taller.
What about bust darts and other darts ? 😭
So even as the sizes get bigger the shoulder seam is the same length?
I would love to see how you grade pants
Thank you Nick for your tutorial this helps a lot. Are there specific measurements for grading patterns for petite plus sizes? Thank you again.
Your a very talented but very great natural teacher wow
This guy is SO CUTE!!! I wish he would come back to TH-cam :(
He keeps making the shoulder broader and the torso longer, but that's not how most "curvy" women are built.
Nicely done! Thank you : )
Hi Nick.. your videos are great. Could u possibly make a video of how to grade a pattern that has pleats. Thank u😀
Can you show us how to go up to a 32-34?!
💖💖💖 Great tutorial! ☺ Thanks💖!
Hi nick. I love your videos, I was wondering how do you grad a pants(trousers) pattern, do the same rules apply?
how do you grade between sizes eg I need a size 18 bustline, a 22 for the waist and 24-6 for the hip.
Jen Stosser Got similar problems and it means using several grades but carefully so it blends. I know we start with the largest measure and work down size to the other measurements, your bust being smallest will have some needs with darts, arm and neck holes. I wish I could actually explain it you will need to make some cheap experiments to see what needs tweaking on the top. U Tube has a lot on this and a pattern drafting book and class would help you.
Hi how do you go about if the pattern is 6 inches to small by the waist and is princess line please help😢😢😢
Your lessons are well organized and easily understood. Is your book" fashion for passion" available in Sri Lanka.
Thank you will be trying this out for myself
Oh my GOD, are you wonderful !!!!!
Can you show how to do this with darts
I would love if you could do grading for regular and plus trousers!
Thankyou, I needed this video. X
I have a vintage pattern size 12 and I want to upgrade it to size 20-22. How do I do that.
remember that the sizing shanges ie bust waist hip standards changed - so be aware that the old sizes are not the current sizes. Good luck!
Thankssssss!!! I was waiting for this💜💜💜💜💜
I’m a person who is oddly shaped. I’m short but plus sized, so I’m narrower in the shoulders bigger in the bust and from shoulder to bust there is almost no room. So grading for petite plus if you could please.
DAYBROK3 So you’re my twin?
That's something I always have issues with. Just because we are plus size doesn't mean we get taller. I can almost never find pants that fit because they are so long. I buy capris just so I don't have to roll my pants legs.
I haven't extend sizes on a crisp tracing pattern paper since high school. but when you go from one inch a size with your sharpie pen , with1/2-1/4 inch to expand each fuller size so you can go through which size you use a matrieal shear scissors, know what grade of size when you cut the fabric.i rather use notches so when you sew a seam stitch, like simplicity did. but I had a question...
Thanks so much
Brilliant thank you
One more question. Do you make any changes to the center front of the pattern?
Is there a way to grade/draw the pattern for someone who is a size 16 but with a bust cup of a size 18 or 20? I know is possible to tailor the dress later but i was wondering if there is a way to draw/grade it directly in the pattern
لو سمحت ممكن الترجمه للعربيه
I've seen some blog tutorials on "blending sizes". You might have to do the grading then blend, though.
Ure so funny and fun Nick! Laaaff ❤️
Really interesting.Why isn't there a measurement the waist drops by?
Hai from malaysia.. i really like yur video nick!
hey Nick kip up d gud work nice job
Nick, could you go over boning placements in fitted bodices please?
If you grade from a 14 to 16, can you make adjustments for petite sizes at the same time or do you grade two separate times?
Pls guide how to make couture garments fit perfectly for the different types of body shape?
What if grading is on a dart pattern
Your the best❤️
Literally just saw the last video and asked for this hahahaha
lol ... i did the same
is this a pattern 14 or an off the rack 14? because those are usually different.
Are these pattern sizing or in line with retailers clothing size? Any tips on how to determine the size I’d need to grade to?
Joanna Johnson each retailer uses a fit model and sometimes a 3d avatar. This is a method that is pretty common and used. There are also variables that change in grading beyond the size 22/24. The sizes beyond that get another jump. One thing to keep in mind is the fig model. Does the fig model shape look the same at a 16 to a 22, or does the body shift a lot more. Imaging an oval and a circle. Similar shapes but not the same.
These are pattern sizes which differ from retail clothing. The pattern size is based on your measurements. Find your measurements on the pattern envelope to locate your corresponding pattern size. Happy sewing!!
Nick my dear, I am trying to make a coat. But I am a bigger gal so I am looking to go up to 5x. I want to be comfy in my coat. Please help with those sizes as well. please please please
Did you drop the waist a half as well?