Due to a spurious copyright claim from a rather dubious company, I have had no choice but to re-upload this tutorial with a slightly different edit. You Tube were not in the slightest bit helpful at all in this instance and has upheld this company's ability to steal (from me) all the revenue made from this video... which wasn't very much, I must say. What You Tube are doing now is giving license to these kinds of company to just take revenue from creators that is not rightfully theirs. Thank you for understanding the situation.
It's just totally disheartening, if I'm honest. I get very little back from this channel and YT are allowing someone else to just come in and take it all. Thanks for your support. As I said, I thought the video, as a resource, was too valuable to allow it to just disappear. I've seen what I've spoken about here appear on much bigger creator channels in the last year, so the message is out... even if the resource they used didn't get a mention or a credit. C'est la vie, and all that!
@@sinaimuse6562 It's just the way it goes around here. If I were a bigger creator, TH-cam would be all over me, but I'm a no-one, so they don't care. Thanks for your concern though, I really appreciate it, cheers!
The irony being that the music I'd used was from the YT music library, that said, the choices on offer there are largely pretty bad. I'll stick with it and plough through... I have no other choice.
Despite the little hiccup you had with one of the mixes, this mould looks phenomenal! So much labour and skill into something which on the surface looks easy to build, is in fact quite a masterful skill, well done...
Thanks. When you're tracking a lot of information (especially when filming) the odd mistake can creep in, but you just get on with it and deal with the situation!
Brilliant video! I'm moulding a Clockwork Droid mask that I've sculpted and this video has been extremely useful. My mould is definitely not as clean looking as yours, but for a first go at brush up moulding I think it's going well! I'm using plaster bandage for the support shell (mainly to keep the budget down!), just wondering if it particularly matters if the shell is one piece or if it comes apart in two parts? I've seen both done for larger mask moulds like this and not seen anyone say for certain if one method is better than the other!
Well thanks for watching and I'm glad that it's been useful to you for your project - and good luck with that, I'm sure it'll be brilliant! A plaster support shell is just fine, so no worries there. As for splitting the shell in two, you only really need that if the cast inside your mould is liable to lock (wedge) into place. If it would, you'd split your shell so that you can remove it easily and then flex and roll your silicone mould off the cast. Because you're moulding and casting a Clockwork Droid mask, there isn't sufficient raised detailing or contours to lock your cast within the mould, so you can probably get away without the split, though if you are unsure, it won't hurt to have the shell in two parts... it may just give you peace of mind!
I tend to eye ball the mix as the conditions do affect the outcome, you know, ambient heat, humidity and percentage of catalyst added. You just get a feel for what's right, but thanks for taking the time to calculate that.
It does the job as well as it needs to. Smooth On is over hyped and over priced, if you want my honest appraisal. Can't say anything about Mold Max as I've never used it - I'm not even sure if you can get it in the UK, you probably can, but I've never looked for it.
There's various things that could be an issue here. The most obvious is - have you added in the correct amount of catalyst? What is the cure time? It will often be runny for quite a while during the green stage, then suddenly it'll start to thicken as starts to cure. Depending on your mix ratio, it could take several hours or even over night. Another thing to consider is the ambient temperature of where you're working, too cold and the reaction time will take longer, too warm and it'll cure quickly. Right now, your best bet is not to worry and leave it to cure over night. Just check on it every hour or so. This time is always quite a nerve wracking period, if it all goes wrong, don't worry, it can be cleaned up and you can start over.
@@PBProps the amount of catalyst maybe i added a little bit too much from intended ratio because i initially thought the process would quicken. Room temperature fairly around 30 degrees. This time i only did a small portion for testing after a wasted big fail from previous attempt. It would be great to know at what duration it starts to cure.
Adding too much catalyst would just make it cure quicker and your ambient temperature would seem fine. If it's not cured over night then the only other explanation is that your silicone is reacting to whatever it is that you are trying to mould and when this happens, it will not cure... at all - ever. Curing times in general depend on various factors, mix ratio, silicone type and temperature. With the things I've worked on, I tend to do a hot mix (more catalyst) for speed and usually I'm set to demould after a couple of hours. However if it's got a lot of detail that I want to capture without air bubbles ruining it, I do a cool mix (1%) and leave it over night. You say this is your second go. Did it not cure the last time? If this is the case, then it really would point to cure inhibition caused by the object reacting badly with the silicone. If you've sprayed it with a primer, clean it up, then respray with a different primer brand and do a new, small test with your silicone to see if it cures or not. EDIT: Something else that I just thought of is high humidity in the air where you're working. Silicone hates moisture content and this also stops the cure from happening. If you can rule that out, then you may have your answer.
I'd need some more information here. So you make your silicone mould, make a cast and paint it - then you get paint peel, right? What are you using to make your casts and what type of paint are you using? At this point, I'm wondering whether or not you have washed your casts before painting them. Having oils on the casts can cause paint not to adhere well.
Due to a spurious copyright claim from a rather dubious company, I have had no choice but to re-upload this tutorial with a slightly different edit. You Tube were not in the slightest bit helpful at all in this instance and has upheld this company's ability to steal (from me) all the revenue made from this video... which wasn't very much, I must say. What You Tube are doing now is giving license to these kinds of company to just take revenue from creators that is not rightfully theirs.
Thank you for understanding the situation.
It's pretty disgusting behaviour, tbh. This video is a really helpful and useful resource, and i'm glad it's back.
It's just totally disheartening, if I'm honest. I get very little back from this channel and YT are allowing someone else to just come in and take it all. Thanks for your support. As I said, I thought the video, as a resource, was too valuable to allow it to just disappear. I've seen what I've spoken about here appear on much bigger creator channels in the last year, so the message is out... even if the resource they used didn't get a mention or a credit. C'est la vie, and all that!
I'm sorry to here that and your correct they won't help at all.
@@sinaimuse6562 It's just the way it goes around here. If I were a bigger creator, TH-cam would be all over me, but I'm a no-one, so they don't care. Thanks for your concern though, I really appreciate it, cheers!
We had a YT channel and after Five years of working on it, they stopped paying us 😢 so I was done with YT - keep making videos, you did a great job!!
One of the most thorough and professional mold making tutorials on TH-cam. Exceptional, thankyou.
Thanks very much for your comment, that's lovely to hear and I'm glad that you liked it. Hopefully it'll be of some use to you.
Good to see you still on You Tube ...stay with the YT music library ..
The irony being that the music I'd used was from the YT music library, that said, the choices on offer there are largely pretty bad. I'll stick with it and plough through... I have no other choice.
Despite the little hiccup you had with one of the mixes, this mould looks phenomenal!
So much labour and skill into something which on the surface looks easy to build, is in fact quite a masterful skill, well done...
Thanks. When you're tracking a lot of information (especially when filming) the odd mistake can creep in, but you just get on with it and deal with the situation!
“…this, however, would later come to bite me in the arse”
I laughed heartily, well done on a great video!
Hey, thanks for watching and I'm glad that it gave you a hoot!
Yes, we should do this more often! I sub'd a while back. Thanks for sharing with us!
Thanks for the sub - and for watching!
Brilliant video! I'm moulding a Clockwork Droid mask that I've sculpted and this video has been extremely useful. My mould is definitely not as clean looking as yours, but for a first go at brush up moulding I think it's going well! I'm using plaster bandage for the support shell (mainly to keep the budget down!), just wondering if it particularly matters if the shell is one piece or if it comes apart in two parts? I've seen both done for larger mask moulds like this and not seen anyone say for certain if one method is better than the other!
Well thanks for watching and I'm glad that it's been useful to you for your project - and good luck with that, I'm sure it'll be brilliant!
A plaster support shell is just fine, so no worries there. As for splitting the shell in two, you only really need that if the cast inside your mould is liable to lock (wedge) into place. If it would, you'd split your shell so that you can remove it easily and then flex and roll your silicone mould off the cast.
Because you're moulding and casting a Clockwork Droid mask, there isn't sufficient raised detailing or contours to lock your cast within the mould, so you can probably get away without the split, though if you are unsure, it won't hurt to have the shell in two parts... it may just give you peace of mind!
Brilliant, thanks for the help!
As always, I'm very happy to help where I can. Best of luck with your project, I'm sure it'll turn out just perfectly.
The formula for your thickness consistency is 18 drops for every 254 grams. About 7 drops of thickener for every 100 grams.
I tend to eye ball the mix as the conditions do affect the outcome, you know, ambient heat, humidity and percentage of catalyst added. You just get a feel for what's right, but thanks for taking the time to calculate that.
@@PBProps thank you for your awesome content
How do you find the DWR silicone compared to Smooth on Mold max?
It does the job as well as it needs to. Smooth On is over hyped and over priced, if you want my honest appraisal. Can't say anything about Mold Max as I've never used it - I'm not even sure if you can get it in the UK, you probably can, but I've never looked for it.
@@PBProps thankyou. It is available from Bentlry supplies but I'm migrating to DWR. Thankyou
Woww is godd
I have a problem with my mix being still runny even after I let it sit for 30 minutes. Can anyone provide insights for my problem? Thanks
There's various things that could be an issue here.
The most obvious is - have you added in the correct amount of catalyst?
What is the cure time? It will often be runny for quite a while during the green stage, then suddenly it'll start to thicken as starts to cure. Depending on your mix ratio, it could take several hours or even over night.
Another thing to consider is the ambient temperature of where you're working, too cold and the reaction time will take longer, too warm and it'll cure quickly.
Right now, your best bet is not to worry and leave it to cure over night. Just check on it every hour or so. This time is always quite a nerve wracking period, if it all goes wrong, don't worry, it can be cleaned up and you can start over.
@@PBProps the amount of catalyst maybe i added a little bit too much from intended ratio because i initially thought the process would quicken. Room temperature fairly around 30 degrees. This time i only did a small portion for testing after a wasted big fail from previous attempt. It would be great to know at what duration it starts to cure.
Adding too much catalyst would just make it cure quicker and your ambient temperature would seem fine. If it's not cured over night then the only other explanation is that your silicone is reacting to whatever it is that you are trying to mould and when this happens, it will not cure... at all - ever.
Curing times in general depend on various factors, mix ratio, silicone type and temperature. With the things I've worked on, I tend to do a hot mix (more catalyst) for speed and usually I'm set to demould after a couple of hours. However if it's got a lot of detail that I want to capture without air bubbles ruining it, I do a cool mix (1%) and leave it over night.
You say this is your second go. Did it not cure the last time? If this is the case, then it really would point to cure inhibition caused by the object reacting badly with the silicone. If you've sprayed it with a primer, clean it up, then respray with a different primer brand and do a new, small test with your silicone to see if it cures or not.
EDIT: Something else that I just thought of is high humidity in the air where you're working. Silicone hates moisture content and this also stops the cure from happening. If you can rule that out, then you may have your answer.
Why does the paint peel off when it dries after I finish my work, what is the reason?
I'd need some more information here. So you make your silicone mould, make a cast and paint it - then you get paint peel, right? What are you using to make your casts and what type of paint are you using? At this point, I'm wondering whether or not you have washed your casts before painting them. Having oils on the casts can cause paint not to adhere well.
@@PBProps I mean when I draw on the mask after it comes out of the mold with silicone, but it peels off 😢
Can i use the silicone to make a mask?
You can, but the mould would have to be made from fibreglass as silicone bonds to silicone.
So how much silicone wound up being used for this?
I genuinely cannot remember as it was a few years ago now. Maybe a couple of kilos or more.
@@PBProps Okay. Thanks!
Is it just me that fancied a Christmas roast at chapter five?
You and a few other people.