Perfect example of what TH-cam was invented for. rare and extremely talented people, dedicated to their craft, showing and sharing ' How To's' to a world hungry for knowledge and skills.
I can't imagine casting a knob but this was a Very entertaining/informative video - thanks for posting it - I'm going to check out what else you've done.
Nothing says “I care about my Craft.” then openly sharing your knowledge. Now that I know how to do it, I’d still give you a call to make the knobs for my 49 Hudson.
Amazing and good explaining, can you make another video showing us how you do the text in or on knobs and especially if you don't have the original anymore, that would be awesome. Thanks for sharing from Mexico
I had often wondered when I was younger if it was possible to recreate those vintage knobs and steering wheels because I had quite a few vintage vehicles that did need new steering wheels and knobs I am 72 now and just discovered yes it is possible thanks to you so thank you for that.
Thank you, sir, for sharing a tiny part of your amazing, and very interesting craft. One of those items I used in the 50s and 60s, but never paid any attention as to how it was made. Being a retired engineer, I enjoy watching how most anything is/was produced. Much appreciated!
This is really cool! Very intensive and time consuming, but well worth it. Wish companies still made neat things like this. Definitely an art to it. Job well done!
@robertsmith2956 metal casting for the stem and body. But honestly, switch bodies are usually fairly easy to obtain still, it's the knobs that are specific to the vehicle that are hens teeth now. 😢
@@Voo_Doo_Blue I have a problem with backside of switch, and you can't buy one, you have to buy the entire center control. Found something very interesting designing a way around the switch. The 30A relay for it, is on a 40A fuse. They must have studied under Apple to have the fuse higher than the component so it won't blow.
I loved this video. I have no interest in car restoration or model making, but it's fantastic to see the degree of perfectionism at work. I bet it's expensive though. There's a lot of time/man hours going in to making just one knob here.
Tenite was used by Nash for the clear parts in their 1940 models. Tenite was used for car parts because it could be made crystal clear and had a low melting temperature. The plastic is a cellulosic, made from wood like celluloid, rayon, and some others. Some old Tenite, when using sandpaper to smooth it, will give off a faint woody smell, reminiscent of pine. The low melting temperature of Tenite was also its major problem. Park a car in sunlight on a summer day with the windows up and the Tenite parts could get close to softening. 1940's plastics technology hadn't achieved things like stabilizing the volatile components. So over time old clear Tenite can yellow. Heat accelerates the deterioration to where it turns brown, shrinks, warps, and eventually crumbles. But that's not all! It will STINK horribly. Imagine a drunk vomited into a cat's litter box that hasn't been cleaned for a week and you'll get close to the stench of deteriorated 1940's Tenite. Even if kept out of direct sunlight and excessive heat, the Tenite Nash used yellowed, shrank a bit, and developed the bad smell. Adding dyes and pigments seems to have worked to slow down the deterioration, but heat would still turn colored Tenite items into twisted, crumbling, smelly wreckage. It was not a fun thing, working with old Nash parts when I made silicone molds to reproduce them in Smooth-On Crystal Clear 202. I've been making reproduction plastic car parts for over 25 years now. Mostly for Hudson but I also do some for Nash and a few items for other makes. Some of my parts have been used on cars on the Concours d'Elegance show circuit.
I love doing stuff like this. You really have an awesome skill and knowledge I'm so glad you're passing it on through videos. Thank you for sharing and you do beautiful work I have a few old cars and I would love to try this out not just to make knobs but to make other stuff. I'm not interested in 3D printing. I think this would be much stronger then any 3D printing material. I love making things step by step and with my hands. Thanks again!
Love this type of work and viseo Now they are 3D printed im sure and won't be close to the detail and quality that this gentleman makes. Thank you for the video- GREAT JOB!!!
3d printing doesn't have a great surface finish at all, and is meant for creating an object from nothing. This is a far superior method to copy existing objects, and have a better surface finish and stronger parts with no layer lines in them.
Great video, I was totally thinking “I can do this” until I got to the part with the vacuum thing and then the pressure chamber thing, and then I was like damn. Still wonderful to watch.
Excellent work - thanks for sharing - I'm interested in recreating knobs for old electronics lab gear - seeing you make it look easy gives me some confidence! 🙂
This is genius! I have a Mercedes 450SL and a 450SEL - the convertible and the four door sedan. They are graceful older ladies that need some earrings. Thank you for this. Also I restore electrical appliances and furniture. I’m thinking of making a 1930’s fan knob and a 1930’s dresser knob that are broken. I’m so happy.
Fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Love the quality of video and audio as well. Please keep teaching us! I would love to see a steering wheel restoration, or maybe some knobs with lights inside or maybe glow in the dark resin inlay? Whatever projects you are up to, please keep sharing. It is very much appreciated.
Well done! Very encouraging to know that one can fabricate knobs that are no longer available or too expensive to get. You did show knobs with lettering so I hope you will cover that as well. Thank you, thumbs up and subscribed.
Hi Keith! Barry here...This is a very helpful video. Thank you showing step by step & the products that I would need. Now... I'm even more inspired to try & make some radio knobs.
That is absolutely amazing 🤩👏 and beautiful thank you for sharing your knowledge of how to recreate old knobs from vintage vehicles that we can't get enough of.
Thankyou for this very well presented and informative video. I wanted to cast my own Ivory gear lever knob and now have a great base to start from. Thank-you and I also now know where to go for any of my classic plastic part needs.
this was fantastic. we need this gentleman's knowledge. thank you for taking the time to pass this on. in a world that seems like attention to detail, and craftsmanship has been pushed aside, it's people like this that give me hope. As others have said, i would love to see how the lettering is done. you got an instant like and subscribe from me.
As a classic car hobbyist I will be saving knobsoup to my phone. After seeing all the processes you have to go thru, I'm sure the finished product is good value. Great video.
Very nice video, thanks for sharing. I love the idea of using natural materials for project parts rather than a 3D plastic printer. Much better, in my mind, to have this skill using elemental parts and supplies rather than relying on a black box 3D printer and software.
Thank you so much for this video and for sharing your method. I need to reproduce some antique radio knobs. I have these materials, and I was close, but I see now where my process was lacking. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Thank you very much. Now I have some work to do!
Thank you for sharing a wonderful and fascinating craft. I will share this with my father. He restores old cars and will find this as useful and fascinating as I did.
New subscriber here....Thank you for such an awesome video with great information....I am starting to build a 1928 Morgan and I am sure that I will be needing something...Thank you so much...John
Thank you so very much. I’ve been molding and casting now for 19 years and I just got into TH-cam. I’m amazed by the reaction from people like you. it encourages me to make more videos. Definitely more to come.
A paint pot from any hardware store works as a vacuum chamber. Vacuum pump can be bought off ebay. Put the mold with the silicone in the paint put and putt a vacuum to get rid of air bubbles.
I will be making a video about vacuum and pressure casting In a month or so.. The pressure chamber is made from a harbor freight paint container and the vacuum pot a got off eBay about 10 years ago. There are you tube videos on making a pressure pot from harbor freight. I made my first one from an old cooking pressure pot from the forties. Worked great until I broke a flange on it.
Vevor sells them with pump in a number of sizes. I have the large one. I forget the size. They’re cheap enough and work well. Whatever you do make, or get one, larger than you think you need, otherwise, you’ll find, at some point, that it’s too small.
As somebody else said, this is exactly what the internet is for. A clear, detailed, explanation of something I've been enjoying playing at. Tell me: I've been using vacuum on my resin to remove bubbles rather than pressure casting. I've had good results for indicator lenses amongst others. Does pressure casting really make the difference?
Thank you for asking. if you really want to make sure you have an absolute bubble free casting., after vacuuming, pressure cast your resin. Esp. headlight lenses and tail light lenses. If it’s not critical, just pressure cast you resin.
Anyone who is interested in doing dyed epoxy resin like this should hit up Peter Brown's channel, especially his Dye Trying series. He uses a lot of commercial molds though, so very complementary to this excellent video
Keith, nice job. FYI, I think you can save $ on cups and skip the back and forth mixing between them by adding the second item to the same cup and using the scale to control the quantity of each. I start with weighing the smaller quantity first then add the larger one. For example if I am combining 1 part to 3 (1+3=4 total) and need 5 oz, I first add 1.25 oz (1/4* 5) to a cup, then add enough of the second item to bring the scale reading to 5 oz. If your winging it, pour in the first item, measure the weight of this first part, then multiply by the sum of the parts to get the total combined weight when adding the second item.
I’m amazed at the punishment silicone can take and still be reusable as a mold, you’d expect undercuts on the original part to rip it as it was removed.
Perfect example of what TH-cam was invented for.
rare and extremely talented people,
dedicated to their craft,
showing and sharing ' How To's' to a world hungry for knowledge and skills.
I can't imagine casting a knob but this was a Very entertaining/informative
video - thanks for posting it - I'm going to check out what else you've done.
You're right: the perfect youtube video... I subbed after two mins :)
Well actually it was invented because of Justin Timberlake ripping Janet Jackson's top off. But this is also a good reason.
TH-cam was invented to make money for the inventer/owner.
This is the way a “how to” video should be presented, literally step-by-step.
Nothing says “I care about my Craft.” then openly sharing your knowledge. Now that I know how to do it, I’d still give you a call to make the knobs for my 49 Hudson.
I started the video thinking I'd watch a few minutes. Watched every meticulous detail. These vintage knobs would look very nice on some modern cars. 😊
ANYTHING but Piano Black, please! Actually, it'd just be nice to see physical knobs, buttons, and switches return to the modern automobile. :)
@@jamesgizasson I was basically thinking the same thing. The car can't be TOO modern, considering new cars don't have any knobs for replacing.
Amazing and good explaining, can you make another video showing us how you do the text in or on knobs and especially if you don't have the original anymore, that would be awesome. Thanks for sharing from Mexico
I had often wondered when I was younger if it was possible to recreate those vintage knobs and steering wheels because I had quite a few vintage vehicles that did need new steering wheels and knobs I am 72 now and just discovered yes it is possible thanks to you so thank you for that.
Thank you, sir, for sharing a tiny part of your amazing, and very interesting craft. One of those items I used in the 50s and 60s, but never paid any attention as to how it was made. Being a retired engineer, I enjoy watching how most anything is/was produced. Much appreciated!
Thank you, I have more to come.
Retired dentist here . Similar to making gold crowns , centuries old technic but with modern material ! Very interesting !Thank you!
Thanks! I'm glad you found it interesting.
I'm over 70 and restore many things including cars this video is incredible! Thank you!!
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Lots more to come, stay tuned!
This is really cool! Very intensive and time consuming, but well worth it. Wish companies still made neat things like this. Definitely an art to it. Job well done!
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate that.
We can always appreciate an artist and his work...good show
I loved every minute of it and I love how you don’t leave out details
This is by far the best video I've ever seen on the subject of knob making.
Thanks for your role in preserving this art form. Well done, sir.
The process is a lot more involved than I had thought. Thanks for sharing that method with us. It works beautifully.
It's great to see that some of the old unobtainable Auto parts can be remade, good Video Keith 👍
Now if we can just make the part the knob attaches to.
@robertsmith2956 metal casting for the stem and body. But honestly, switch bodies are usually fairly easy to obtain still, it's the knobs that are specific to the vehicle that are hens teeth now. 😢
@@Voo_Doo_Blue I have a problem with backside of switch, and you can't buy one, you have to buy the entire center control.
Found something very interesting designing a way around the switch. The 30A relay for it, is on a 40A fuse. They must have studied under Apple to have the fuse higher than the component so it won't blow.
Beautiful results! I'm new to using resin. You gave an excellent presentation that wasn't unnecessarily long.
IThank you for the nice comment. I will be posting another video soon
I loved this video. I have no interest in car restoration or model making, but it's fantastic to see the degree of perfectionism at work. I bet it's expensive though. There's a lot of time/man hours going in to making just one knob here.
Really cool to see how you’re able to reproduce old style knobs. Thank you for sharing.
Was NOT expecting those results! Thanks!
What an amazing man, this is not work this is art.
Time consuming , labor intensive, awesome work ! Beautiful Job !
You are special talented person … thank you for sharing this lost ART,
Simple when watching an expert.
Thank you, great video
Thank you for asking. The pressure makes any small bubbles in the resin collapse and gives you a clear knob
Tenite was used by Nash for the clear parts in their 1940 models. Tenite was used for car parts because it could be made crystal clear and had a low melting temperature. The plastic is a cellulosic, made from wood like celluloid, rayon, and some others. Some old Tenite, when using sandpaper to smooth it, will give off a faint woody smell, reminiscent of pine.
The low melting temperature of Tenite was also its major problem. Park a car in sunlight on a summer day with the windows up and the Tenite parts could get close to softening. 1940's plastics technology hadn't achieved things like stabilizing the volatile components. So over time old clear Tenite can yellow. Heat accelerates the deterioration to where it turns brown, shrinks, warps, and eventually crumbles.
But that's not all! It will STINK horribly. Imagine a drunk vomited into a cat's litter box that hasn't been cleaned for a week and you'll get close to the stench of deteriorated 1940's Tenite. Even if kept out of direct sunlight and excessive heat, the Tenite Nash used yellowed, shrank a bit, and developed the bad smell. Adding dyes and pigments seems to have worked to slow down the deterioration, but heat would still turn colored Tenite items into twisted, crumbling, smelly wreckage.
It was not a fun thing, working with old Nash parts when I made silicone molds to reproduce them in Smooth-On Crystal Clear 202.
I've been making reproduction plastic car parts for over 25 years now. Mostly for Hudson but I also do some for Nash and a few items for other makes. Some of my parts have been used on cars on the Concours d'Elegance show circuit.
I love doing stuff like this. You really have an awesome skill and knowledge I'm so glad you're passing it on through videos. Thank you for sharing and you do beautiful work I have a few old cars and I would love to try this out not just to make knobs but to make other stuff. I'm not interested in 3D printing. I think this would be much stronger then any 3D printing material. I love making things step by step and with my hands. Thanks again!
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoy the videos.
Love this type of work and viseo Now they are 3D printed im sure and won't be close to the detail and quality that this gentleman makes. Thank you for the video- GREAT JOB!!!
3d printing doesn't have a great surface finish at all, and is meant for creating an object from nothing. This is a far superior method to copy existing objects, and have a better surface finish and stronger parts with no layer lines in them.
Yep, 3 D printing awesome and I in awe of guys that can do it. but my background is in art…so
How cool is that. A look into a rarely seen process.
Couldn’t stop watching!!! I was very intrigued and happy I came across your channel!!! Very interesting and informative!!! Great job Sir!!!!
Great video, I was totally thinking “I can do this” until I got to the part with the vacuum thing and then the pressure chamber thing, and then I was like damn. Still wonderful to watch.
Excellent work - thanks for sharing - I'm interested in recreating knobs for old electronics lab gear - seeing you make it look easy gives me some confidence! 🙂
great! You can do it. as Anthony Hopkins said in the movie “Bear”. “What one man can do, another man can do”.
Thank you, sir, for making those videos. I really lean a lot on moulding and casting techniques. I look forward to seeing more of your videos.
That was a joy to watch and it must be so rewarding to see automotive history being recreated.
Thank you very much, I appreciate that.
Thank you for sharing your skill. Looking forward to learning more about the process.
Very detailed and helpfull video to made the most dificult parts to find in a car restoration
Thanks! I have more to come.
Keith, thank you so much for showing us this incredible process.
This is genius! I have a Mercedes 450SL and a 450SEL - the convertible and the four door sedan. They are graceful older ladies that need some earrings. Thank you for this.
Also I restore electrical appliances and furniture. I’m thinking of making a 1930’s fan knob and a 1930’s dresser knob that are broken. I’m so happy.
Do it! I made all of my kitchen knobs
@ Thank you! That’s awesome.
Fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Love the quality of video and audio as well. Please keep teaching us! I would love to see a steering wheel restoration, or maybe some knobs with lights inside or maybe glow in the dark resin inlay? Whatever projects you are up to, please keep sharing. It is very much appreciated.
More to come!
Well done! Very encouraging to know that one can fabricate knobs that are no longer available or too expensive to get. You did show knobs with lettering so I hope you will cover that as well. Thank you, thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks for asking. Yes, I will be boing a video on lettering.
Very nice video and great instruction. My mind is twirling. Thank You!!
Hi Keith! Barry here...This is a very helpful video. Thank you showing step by step & the products that I would need. Now... I'm even more inspired to try & make some radio knobs.
Excellent video, thank you.
That is absolutely amazing 🤩👏 and beautiful thank you for sharing your knowledge of how to recreate old knobs from vintage vehicles that we can't get enough of.
Thankyou for this very well presented and informative video. I wanted to cast my own Ivory gear lever knob and now have a great base to start from. Thank-you and I also now know where to go for any of my classic plastic part needs.
Thanks! I'm glad you found the video helpful.
I love this kind of video. Well done. Thanks
this was fantastic. we need this gentleman's knowledge. thank you for taking the time to pass this on. in a world that seems like attention to detail, and craftsmanship has been pushed aside, it's people like this that give me hope. As others have said, i would love to see how the lettering is done. you got an instant like and subscribe from me.
Stay tuned for a video on lettering, I'll be making one soon!
Excellent demonstration 🍾🥂
As a classic car hobbyist I will be saving knobsoup to my phone. After seeing all the processes you have to go thru, I'm sure the finished product is good value. Great video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, i was looking for an un-obtainable replacement
Very nice video, thanks for sharing. I love the idea of using natural materials for project parts rather than a 3D plastic printer. Much better, in my mind, to have this skill using elemental parts and supplies rather than relying on a black box 3D printer and software.
Great job explaining in sufficient detail. I'm thinking about doing some molding and this helps immensely.
I never comment on videos, but this video is beyond interesting, well done, and passes along a valuable process.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video and for sharing your method. I need to reproduce some antique radio knobs. I have these materials, and I was close, but I see now where my process was lacking. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Thank you very much. Now I have some work to do!
You are most welcome, I'll be posting more video's on the subject, Stay Tuned.
Thank you for sharing a wonderful and fascinating craft. I will share this with my father. He restores old cars and will find this as useful and fascinating as I did.
Thank you!
New subscriber here....Thank you for such an awesome video with great information....I am starting to build a 1928 Morgan and I am sure that I will be needing something...Thank you so much...John
Thank you for making this video.
Thanks for sharing the knowlege! I've dont that, but never thought about pressure!
EXCELLENT tutorial. Thank you, sir
Thank you, that was exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, excellent explanation throughout, nicely filmed too ✌🏻
Knobs came out awesome.
Wonderful results.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching your craftsmanship. Thanks for sharing. GBU
Great work! I've always wondered how it was done.
Thank you for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you Keith . That is about the best informative video i have ever seen , Thank You
Thank you so very much. I’ve been molding and casting now for 19 years and I just got into TH-cam. I’m amazed by the reaction from people like you. it encourages me to make more videos. Definitely more to come.
Awesome...thank you so much for sharing your experience and craft!
Thank you very much for watching, I appreciate it!
I sincerely hope you attract the attention of car enthusiasts everywhere! I have an aircooled Beetle and would love to buy some of your creations!
Thank you for your comments. I will soon be making a video on how to make a castle and fox VW gearshift knob.
@keithlee6724 That's great! I'm looking forward to it! :)
Absolutely fascinating. Excellent vid! 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Very interesting.
Great job ! Thx for showing 😊
Great video. You are a smart man. ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Amazing work!
Nice to know as long as you have one good part that more can be made.
Fantastic innovation; design and result!
Thank you for sharing,
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it.
A fine job Sir. I can say that I would be confident to try casting these. Great job explaining how it works etc. Thank you.
A paint pot from any hardware store works as a vacuum chamber. Vacuum pump can be bought off ebay. Put the mold with the silicone in the paint put and putt a vacuum to get rid of air bubbles.
Nice! Can you tell us more about the vacuum and pressure containers? How to make or purchase?
I will be making a video about vacuum and pressure casting In a month or so.. The pressure chamber is made from a harbor freight paint container and the vacuum pot a got off eBay about 10 years ago. There are you tube videos on making a pressure pot from harbor freight. I made my first one from an old cooking pressure pot from the forties. Worked great until I broke a flange on it.
Vevor sells them with pump in a number of sizes. I have the large one. I forget the size. They’re cheap enough and work well. Whatever you do make, or get one, larger than you think you need, otherwise, you’ll find, at some point, that it’s too small.
Great video!
Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Great video to share your craft with future generations 💪
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Great teaching video! Nice video production work as well! Please make more.
Thanks! I'll be posting more soon!
Amazing skill. Thank you for sharing.
Definitely worthy of subscription. I approve
Thanks, I appreciate that!
Awe inspiring process. Thankyou for documenting it.
That was super cool very informative video thanks for posting! 😀🇨🇦
Absolutely fantastic! Thank you.
That was truly fascinating.
Interesting process, thank you.
Amazing. Thanks for sharing!
Really good lesson. Thanks for posting.
Very interesting! Thanks for the post
As somebody else said, this is exactly what the internet is for. A clear, detailed, explanation of something I've been enjoying playing at. Tell me: I've been using vacuum on my resin to remove bubbles rather than pressure casting. I've had good results for indicator lenses amongst others. Does pressure casting really make the difference?
Thank you for asking. if you really want to make sure you have an absolute bubble free casting., after vacuuming, pressure cast your resin. Esp. headlight lenses and tail light lenses. If it’s not critical, just pressure cast you resin.
Excellent job well done.
That was a great video thank you for sharing looking forward to seeing all of your videos
I’ll be posting more soon!
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing.
Anyone who is interested in doing dyed epoxy resin like this should hit up Peter Brown's channel, especially his Dye Trying series.
He uses a lot of commercial molds though, so very complementary to this excellent video
Thanks for sharing that was very intuitive and helpful full
Keith, nice job. FYI, I think you can save $ on cups and skip the back and forth mixing between them by adding the second item to the same cup and using the scale to control the quantity of each. I start with weighing the smaller quantity first then add the larger one. For example if I am combining 1 part to 3 (1+3=4 total) and need 5 oz, I first add 1.25 oz (1/4* 5) to a cup, then add enough of the second item to bring the scale reading to 5 oz. If your winging it, pour in the first item, measure the weight of this first part, then multiply by the sum of the parts to get the total combined weight when adding the second item.
thank for the tip
These videos are wonderful.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Holy cow! This is fantastic!
I’m amazed at the punishment silicone can take and still be reusable as a mold, you’d expect undercuts on the original part to rip it as it was removed.
Excellent and professional, keep it up🤘🔥