Thank you very much for this detailed video. You saved me a lot of money on something that hasn't yet needed to be replaced with a new one, even though my dealership claimed it did. Now the transmission runs like it used to!
Best repair video on here for doing this 👏 Comprehensive with a detailed description of how to do it and how it all works. Have got mine to do and this is been very useful 👌
Best repair video of anything I’ve seen Thanks I have one of these that doesn’t drive and clearly the seals have failed (the outside is covered in oil and muck) Thanks again 👍
Very helpful video, thank you. A couple of tips - there is a thin metal 'dowel pin' in the pump chamber that connects with the swash plate which opens a valve in the top part of the pump as the swash plate is moved by the control lever. Ensure this engages with the lug on the swash plate before assembling the pump. Also make sure that the washer with the two small projections on its circumference fits into the corresponding recess in the 'motor' chamber on the axle.
I blow a seal in my 476 Hydro with a palm leave that wrapped around the shaft! A new a hydrostatic box cost me £330 and 100 labour 7 years ago. Was told can’t be fixed. Well… it can
@@highdefp-rm7zg Yep, I've had a few Beemers in my time. R1150GS back in 2002, R1150GS Adventure in 2005 and the TE in 2015. I regret chopping in the TE, but the current flying armchair has given me 5 years worth of trouble free riding, so I can't complain. Cheers!
I am moving on with my HRX537 rebuild and now have the gearbox out as the drive didn’t work As suggested I cleaned the gearbox thoroughly and have it in a bench vice The cover is off and the oil level is low and the oil looks very metallic I just topped it up and put a drill on the input shaft to ensure the unit would work It did, so now I have removed the two drain plugs so the old oil drains out. I have new seals ordered LSE have no stock so I’ll add a link with an alternative supplier I really want to get the old seals out without dismantling the unit fully The main reason being it’ll save a lot of time and reduce the possibility of errors Thanks again to highdef
As long as you have the wheels and the height adjusters off, might as well replace plastic axle bushings (2 per side). They wear out pretty quickly, and if the axle is messed up from spinning metal on metal, well, you're stuck buying the entire transmission.
After Googling the part number of the oil seals i found them much cheaper than l&s engineers from a Honda motorbike dealer. Appears that they also fit some Honda motorbike gearboxes!
Wow , what a brilliant explanation, have two 537 mower both with clunk in noises, is it always oil and seals or is there any possibility of mechanical problems inside the gear box , do you take on repairs thank you very much for the video
Hi. Normally the clonk is from air in the oil. However there are cogs inside the rear wheels which sometimes wear out . Worth a look . You can source parts from LS engineering . Don’t normally do repairs but if you’re stuck and around Reading in the UK give me a shout.
Hey! I enjoyed your video. I am currently working on the same transmission. I want lucky when I opened mine up as the gaskets were shot... (I don't think I was the first person in there) could you please list all the part numbers that you used? I couldn't see them in the video. I would really appreciate the help! Cheers!
Hi, You'll find all the available part nos. here www.lsengineers.co.uk/honda-hrx537-hxe-mower-spare-parts.html However I don't think you'll find the gasket between the two cases - Here I suggest to make your own. there are plenty of videos on how to do that ... good luck
Thanks for this awesome video. Just finished blade clutch on mine hrx217. Do you know if the hydrostatic trans is the same on that version? It appears largely identical. Would like to source those parts, but the hrx537 is throwing me off. Thanks for the video!
I can’t reassemble the thing like at 19:28. I realize that one of the washers wasn’t going past the part that has teeth but only on the part that is smooth making it not close. I didn’t get the washers mixed up since I didn’t remove it fully from the mower body. Any links or anything that would let me see the washers be put in correctly would be very helpful.
Do you have experience if these mowers won't pull backwards? Can the Hydrostatic drive affect that (prevent the driveshafts from rotation the other direction), or can it only be the driveshafts and rust in these plastic bearings as many others are stating?
Yes I do. I just fixed this two weeks ago! The lever under the deck that is connected to the drive speed cable and gearbox is not returning all the way to its end stop. This was simply fixed with wd40 to free it and cable free play adjustment. I didn’t take anything apart to fix this …. Move the lever under the deck with pliers from end to end and soak it with wd40 or similar .
At 19:28 which washer goes on first? One of them has "ears" or little protrusions on it. Mine fell off when I removed that cylinder and I didn't see the order. Really, really hoping you see this. Honda just tells me to send it to a shop.
sorry for the long wait on response ...Ive been on a motorbike tour.. I think there are two washers to put on at that point. Hope this helps. All the best
Hi for me out of the 7 pistons on the input side 1 of them is jammed and stuck down. Is that meant to be like that? I cant tell in ur video if all 7 are up or only 6. Can u please confirm. And if mine is infact jammed wats the best way to loosen it up and remove it? Thanks
All pistons should be loose and free. This is a bit worrying? Did it have water in it ? Was it contaminated? I’d suggest soaking is diesel overnight the tapping with a plastic hammer . The lubrication for the entire device is the hydraulic oil . You can use grease for the drive shaft and seals .. good luck .
I installed the parts as I think you did them. Including washers. Can’t get the cable piece for the swash plate to spin. It has its washer. Did I miss something obvious? Thanks!
14:52 If I understand you correctly, the angle of the swash plate cannot be adjusted with the external control cable. I suggest going back to where in the assembly it was free, and keep checking its free moving as you add parts and this should reveal why it doesn't move. The washers are critical in position and I think this is shown at 14min 52 sec... Is the spring/control arm on the right way? I remember there's a few ways that this could go together.. Did the cable piece spin (operate)before you took it apart? All of the mowers (now three) are out working at the moment or iI'd take a look for you...
@@highdefp-rm7zg the rod for the swash plate isn’t moving. I haven’t installed the spring and bracket yet. It was moving freely before bolting down the larger piston set. The washers are installed in order I believe. The shaped one is outer and And the basic round one is right up against the back of the piston/motor assembly. Same with the pair on the swash plate side.
@@highdefp-rm7zg i found the issue. Took it apart again. The guide pin on the input side had fallen beyond its resting place on the swash plate, preventing side to side movement of the swash plate! Already bled it and it functions. Thank you so much for your help on this! Cool to learn as well.
I purchased 3 of the shaft seals with that same part# @2-1/2 years ago. Got into the transmission (finally) this weekend and the seals don't fit! Even tried pounding them on with a socket and mallet, but nope. Is there a chance they could have shrunk being uninstalled in the plastic bag? Crazy. Ideas? Thanks.
this is a bit odd. I don't think they would shrink? I wonder if someone put the wrong seals in the packet. If I remember correctly I could push my seals in with my fingers. Perhaps try ordering the seals form another supplier. Here's the pt No# again 91204 KE8 003 good luck
@@highdefp-rm7zg Yep-three seals in sealed plastic packs with that same part #. ?? My plan is to open up a 2nd spare transmission with a bad shaft but good seals and swap in the good shaft from this first one with bad seals. I need to carefully document everything AGAIN so I have a fair chance at accurate reassembly. I wouldn't have attempted it without your video. Thanks!
make your own. measure the thickness of the gasket material, buy some at the same thickness and follow these guidlines....th-cam.com/video/KJAgMhUOU-8/w-d-xo.html it's not too tricky
Years ago I asked my local dealer this question and they said they don't recommend having this service done (by them) because it is about the same price to have them just install a new transmission. This eliminates the possibility of a leak in the rebuilt transmission that they would be obligated to repair again. That said, having them put in a new transmission is about half the cost of a new mower. If you aren't using these mowers commercially, this is something you'd likely never have to do, or have done. If you are using them commercially, this is just off season maintenance after a couple of years.
Main reason these fail is the oil seals and to do that properly it’s a take it apart job. The oil leaks out and then they won’t operate at all. Changing the oil alone does nothing .
Along with my previous comment Would you say it’s a pretty poor design for Honda ? They do great stuff normally I’m a big fan of anything Honda But there are lots of these with failed gearboxes floating around Thanks again
the engines are superb if serviced well - I've only heard of engine failure when they run out of oil or the cutting blades catch a stump or medal bar which bends the crank (Fixable but expensive) The Hydrostatic gearbox is open to the elements and this is a design fault.... It really needs to be covered from the underside, have a dust seal and an oil seal (or two oil seals back to back to protect the inner one) ... All the best....
By far the best video explanation of the hydrostatic transmission.
Thank you very much for this detailed video. You saved me a lot of money on something that hasn't yet needed to be replaced with a new one, even though my dealership claimed it did. Now the transmission runs like it used to!
Best repair video on here for doing this 👏 Comprehensive with a detailed description of how to do it and how it all works. Have got mine to do and this is been very useful 👌
Finally someone dedicated.
Best repair video of anything I’ve seen
Thanks
I have one of these that doesn’t drive and clearly the seals have failed (the outside is covered in oil and muck)
Thanks again 👍
Brilliantly explained, thanks for taking the time to do walk through! 👍🏻
Very helpful video, thank you.
A couple of tips - there is a thin metal 'dowel pin' in the pump chamber that connects with the swash plate which opens a valve in the top part of the pump as the swash plate is moved by the control lever. Ensure this engages with the lug on the swash plate before assembling the pump.
Also make sure that the washer with the two small projections on its circumference fits into the corresponding recess in the 'motor' chamber on the axle.
Do you put the washer with the projections on first or second when reassembling?
Great video and very helpful
I blow a seal in my 476 Hydro with a palm leave that wrapped around the shaft! A new a hydrostatic box cost me £330 and 100 labour 7 years ago. Was told can’t be fixed. Well… it can
Nice Beemer. I miss my old 1200GS TE. When I grow up, I plan on buying another ;-)
Ta, I’ve had four . Great all rounder but Ducati , KTM and Triumph are also in the mix these days 😉
@@highdefp-rm7zg Yep, I've had a few Beemers in my time. R1150GS back in 2002, R1150GS Adventure in 2005 and the TE in 2015. I regret chopping in the TE, but the current flying armchair has given me 5 years worth of trouble free riding, so I can't complain. Cheers!
I am moving on with my HRX537 rebuild and now have the gearbox out as the drive didn’t work
As suggested I cleaned the gearbox thoroughly and have it in a bench vice
The cover is off and the oil level is low and the oil looks very metallic
I just topped it up and put a drill on the input shaft to ensure the unit would work
It did, so now I have removed the two drain plugs so the old oil drains out.
I have new seals ordered
LSE have no stock so I’ll add a link with an alternative supplier
I really want to get the old seals out without dismantling the unit fully
The main reason being it’ll save a lot of time and reduce the possibility of errors
Thanks again to highdef
Great video 👍🏽 best one so far
Man that's a job and a half .. having second thoughts about getting a hydrostatic drive 🤔
As long as you have the wheels and the height adjusters off, might as well replace plastic axle bushings (2 per side). They wear out pretty quickly, and if the axle is messed up from spinning metal on metal, well, you're stuck buying the entire transmission.
good input, I'll look at that...
After Googling the part number of the oil seals i found them much cheaper than l&s engineers from a Honda motorbike dealer. Appears that they also fit some Honda motorbike gearboxes!
Wow , what a brilliant explanation, have two 537 mower both with clunk in noises, is it always oil and seals or is there any possibility of mechanical problems inside the gear box , do you take on repairs thank you very much for the video
Hi. Normally the clonk is from air in the oil. However there are cogs inside the rear wheels which sometimes wear out . Worth a look . You can source parts from LS engineering . Don’t normally do repairs but if you’re stuck and around Reading in the UK give me a shout.
My honda is not hydrostatic. Can I change the oil on it? Or just leave it alone.
Hey! I enjoyed your video. I am currently working on the same transmission. I want lucky when I opened mine up as the gaskets were shot... (I don't think I was the first person in there) could you please list all the part numbers that you used? I couldn't see them in the video. I would really appreciate the help! Cheers!
Hi, You'll find all the available part nos. here www.lsengineers.co.uk/honda-hrx537-hxe-mower-spare-parts.html
However I don't think you'll find the gasket between the two cases - Here I suggest to make your own. there are plenty of videos on how to do that ... good luck
Thanks for this awesome video. Just finished blade clutch on mine hrx217. Do you know if the hydrostatic trans is the same on that version? It appears largely identical. Would like to source those parts, but the hrx537 is throwing me off. Thanks for the video!
try L&S engineering website www.lsengineers.co.uk they have the schematics and associated part numbers ..
I can’t reassemble the thing like at 19:28. I realize that one of the washers wasn’t going past the part that has teeth but only on the part that is smooth making it not close. I didn’t get the washers mixed up since I didn’t remove it fully from the mower body. Any links or anything that would let me see the washers be put in correctly would be very helpful.
There are some pics here
www.lsengineers.co.uk/drive-box-assembly-for-honda-hrx537-hxe-lawn-mowers.html
Do you have experience if these mowers won't pull backwards? Can the Hydrostatic drive affect that (prevent the driveshafts from rotation the other direction), or can it only be the driveshafts and rust in these plastic bearings as many others are stating?
Yes I do. I just fixed this two weeks ago! The lever under the deck that is connected to the drive speed cable and gearbox is not returning all the way to its end stop. This was simply fixed with wd40 to free it and cable free play adjustment. I didn’t take anything apart to fix this …. Move the lever under the deck with pliers from end to end and soak it with wd40 or similar .
nice job are the seals and oil easy to get hold of
Yes I googled Honda lawnmower spares and there were a few options . In the uk I used lsengineers.co.uk Pt no 91204-KE8-003
Zoom the camera in a bit more on future videos ;)
At 19:28 which washer goes on first? One of them has "ears" or little protrusions on it. Mine fell off when I removed that cylinder and I didn't see the order. Really, really hoping you see this. Honda just tells me to send it to a shop.
sorry for the long wait on response ...Ive been on a motorbike tour.. I think there are two washers to put on at that point. Hope this helps. All the best
@@highdefp-rm7zg I got it back together and working. Your video was very, very helpful. Thank you!
Hi is it safe to use full synthetic a engine oil for transmission?
Yes that should be fine.
Hi for me out of the 7 pistons on the input side 1 of them is jammed and stuck down. Is that meant to be like that? I cant tell in ur video if all 7 are up or only 6. Can u please confirm. And if mine is infact jammed wats the best way to loosen it up and remove it? Thanks
Also are we meant to grease anywhere inside at all?
All pistons should be loose and free. This is a bit worrying? Did it have water in it ? Was it contaminated?
I’d suggest soaking is diesel overnight the tapping with a plastic hammer .
The lubrication for the entire device is the hydraulic oil . You can use grease for the drive shaft and seals .. good luck .
I installed the parts as I think you did them. Including washers. Can’t get the cable piece for the swash plate to spin. It has its washer. Did I miss something obvious? Thanks!
14:52 If I understand you correctly, the angle of the swash plate cannot be adjusted with the external control cable. I suggest going back to where in the assembly it was free, and keep checking its free moving as you add parts and this should reveal why it doesn't move. The washers are critical in position and I think this is shown at 14min 52 sec... Is the spring/control arm on the right way? I remember there's a few ways that this could go together..
Did the cable piece spin (operate)before you took it apart?
All of the mowers (now three) are out working at the moment or iI'd take a look for you...
@@highdefp-rm7zg the rod for the swash plate isn’t moving. I haven’t installed the spring and bracket yet. It was moving freely before bolting down the larger piston set. The washers are installed in order I believe. The shaped one is outer and And the basic round one is right up against the back of the piston/motor assembly. Same with the pair on the swash plate side.
Is the whole axle in the wrong way around (the short bit is where the long
Bit should be ? Is the axle shaft in the right position ?
@@highdefp-rm7zg i found the issue. Took it apart again. The guide pin on the input side had fallen beyond its resting place on the swash plate, preventing side to side movement of the swash plate! Already bled it and it functions. Thank you so much for your help on this! Cool to learn as well.
I purchased 3 of the shaft seals with that same part# @2-1/2 years ago. Got into the transmission (finally) this weekend and the seals don't fit! Even tried pounding them on with a socket and mallet, but nope. Is there a chance they could have shrunk being uninstalled in the plastic bag? Crazy. Ideas? Thanks.
this is a bit odd. I don't think they would shrink? I wonder if someone put the wrong seals in the packet. If I remember correctly I could push my seals in with my fingers. Perhaps try ordering the seals form another supplier. Here's the pt No# again 91204 KE8 003
good luck
@@highdefp-rm7zg Yep-three seals in sealed plastic packs with that same part #. ?? My plan is to open up a 2nd spare transmission with a bad shaft but good seals and swap in the good shaft from this first one with bad seals. I need to carefully document everything AGAIN so I have a fair chance at accurate reassembly. I wouldn't have attempted it without your video. Thanks!
Seal dimensions are 13 x 22 x 5 mm
Could you please provide the part number for the shaft seals? And where can I order them from? Thank you.
Try this . (Uk specific but the part nos are the same )
www.lsengineers.co.uk/drive-box-assembly-for-honda-hrx537-hxe-lawn-mowers.html
www.lsengineers.co.uk/drive-box-assembly-for-honda-hrx537-hxe-lawn-mowers.html
My gaskets got broken, what product can I use?
make your own. measure the thickness of the gasket material, buy some at the same thickness and follow these guidlines....th-cam.com/video/KJAgMhUOU-8/w-d-xo.html it's not too tricky
How much would a dealer charge for that and how long before you need it done thanks not 100 % about machine now😵💫
Years ago I asked my local dealer this question and they said they don't recommend having this service done (by them) because it is about the same price to have them just install a new transmission. This eliminates the possibility of a leak in the rebuilt transmission that they would be obligated to repair again. That said, having them put in a new transmission is about half the cost of a new mower.
If you aren't using these mowers commercially, this is something you'd likely never have to do, or have done. If you are using them commercially, this is just off season maintenance after a couple of years.
I’m about to order the seals for doing this how many do I need?
Two , one each end
2-3 hour job if you have done it before, frst time maybe 5-6 😃
Unfortunately this didnt work for me. The shaft even once sanded was so pitted it damaged the new seal on assembly. £350 for new unit
Can I suggest buying a spares or repair unit on eBay ? One of my mowers was less than 250 usd complete ( the deck was cracked)
What are the seal part #’s
www.lsengineers.co.uk/drive-box-assembly-for-honda-hrx537-hxe-lawn-mowers.html
Why all that vice just changing the fluid. Maybe I missed something?
Main reason these fail is the oil seals and to do that properly it’s a take it apart job. The oil leaks out and then they won’t operate at all. Changing the oil alone does nothing .
@@highdefp-rm7zg did you change any other parts or just the oil seals?
@@alvaronayarita shaft circlips and blade colt/washer.. les than 10 usd.
Along with my previous comment
Would you say it’s a pretty poor design for Honda ?
They do great stuff normally I’m a big fan of anything Honda
But there are lots of these with failed gearboxes floating around
Thanks again
the engines are superb if serviced well - I've only heard of engine failure when they run out of oil or the cutting blades catch a stump or medal bar which bends the crank (Fixable but expensive) The Hydrostatic gearbox is open to the elements and this is a design fault.... It really needs to be covered from the underside, have a dust seal and an oil seal (or two oil seals back to back to protect the inner one) ... All the best....