Chainsaw muffler mod! Gain more Hp
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ย. 2019
- This is the first muffler modification that I have done, mod at your our risk! This OEM chainsaw was stock until now, Wow! What a Difference this made, more pull with an over sized bar and chain combo, exhaust note, and over all performance of the saw in general, after the tuning the carb a bit. Remember that more exhaust flow, more fuel is required, do not forget to tune your carb to compensate for the correct air to fuel ratio!
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Good vid.
You could use a unibit (or step bit, as some call it) to enlarge the exhaust.
Nice job young man!🤩🤩
Thank you sir!👍
Must checkout part 2 of chainsaw muffler mod to a appreciate the performance of this mod, the saw has no more bog in the rpms, and powers the hp gains are huge, cutting through big wood!
140psi Good compresion 372xp oe?
the spark arrestor is also a huge restrictor. First thing to get rid of in my opinion.
absolutely. restrictive especially when they fill up with carbon. with the increased exhaust flow of a muffler modification a carb adjustment would probably be wise
They serve little purpose until a saw malfunctions, overheats & starts shooting hot metal parts.
@@Joe_Blo how do i get my saw to do that it sounds fun
@@schlomoshekelstein908 Turn the H carb adjustment clockwise until it's really screaming, then turn it in 1/8th more.
😂😂😂
Tsumura light weight 24” bar, with a 3/8 skip Oregon chain, 5/32 small round file, seem to work well in soft or hard woods!
140psi Good compresion 372xp oe?
Skip chains cut twice as fast, can't believe more people don't use them ✂️✂️✂️
@@sh0sh0n3 Right!!! Most every saw I’ve got is running skip chain. It’s like why not? Especially for someone cutting fire wood. Less stress on the motor, cuts faster, and less teeth to sharpen.
Square filed skip chain is what is on the large saws now, and they love it!
The exhaust tip is just a redirect so your not catching logs on fire
Ive got two 455 rancher XP’s and they really eat up big oak logs when I buck with them in bone stock form.
I really can’t see messing with my saws.
I run 20” bars with full chisel chains but I keep them sharp which is most of the battle.
We all want more and bigger but I gotta say I’m perfectly pleased with how my saws perform.
One is 7 years old and the other only a month old and the older saw runs every bit as good as the new one.
The only problem I ever run into when bucking big logs is the sawdust binds up the chain from time to time so I could probably benefit from a skip tooth chain for sure.
I just love my Husky saws and I’ve also got a small limbing husky saw as well.
Ive tried Stihl saws but they just seem too finicky.
Husky saws just flat out run.
Totally agree, 455s are great in stock form no doubt, and normally scream, have never had a problem with mine either, accept a fuel line replacement some years back. True, a wicked sharp chain is a must, for proper performance while bucking any types of wood! Thanx happy and safe bucking!
That's a decent home owner saw but definitely doesn't eat up big oak
Muffler mods improve the life of the saw its a fact
Cool video! Thanks for sharing! I’m planning on doing the exact same mod to my husqvarna 440e. Only difference is I’ll be using the westcoast power port instead of reusing the stock deflector. I’m excited to see the results. Might have to trim a little bit of the top shield though lol
@@kylemclaughlin1578 thanks! 🙏, definitely would be worth doing the aftermarket deflector, this one here was a little short, had to add an extension to it, later on. They work great! Thanks for dropping a comment! 👍
@@tfloutdoors327 for sure! I painted my muffler with high temp gloss black earlier today, and once the WCS port arrives, I’ll be cutting out the top hole and adding the deflector to the top of the muffler. Should look, sound, and perform pretty sweet once it’s all done 👍
@@kylemclaughlin1578 heck ya! I’m sure you know this, but make sure the inside of the muffler is clear of all the metal shavings after drilling or grinding. They can kill the piston, and cylinder. Also tune the carb, they typically run leaner after a muffler mod to the stock can.
@@tfloutdoors327 of course! I have completely removed the muffler and modded and cleaned it while it was off the saw. I also have the special 12 point tuning screwdriver to richen up the high speed screw. Thanks
What did you use to spot weld? I don't have access to aluminum welder
Hey Justin thanx for watching my video! No aluminum welding required, just used a mig on lower temperature, or might be able to braze weld it, with a torch, haven’t tried that one yet
If you ever got to take out spot welds again you want to sheet metal hole saw there for spot welds I have to remove spot welds all day at work
So you made the exhaust hole larger but out the same tip back on which is restricting the larger hole???
Took a ball ping hammer to the tip, before welding back together, to get more lift, wasn’t able to raise it to much due to the top plastic cover coming into contact with it. Stockish saws will still need some back pressure👍
I have a 455 rancher.
I'm gonna try that.
Nice! I had to add an extra length to the exhaust deflector because I opened up the exhaust port beyond the point of the stock deflector, results were a melted chain brake! Live and learn I guess, but the mod will help even a stock saw! 👍
it will just build up.
Should of cut with it pre and post mod
Thanks for watching my vid! Check out muffler mod part 2 , making test cuts, there a clip at the end of before and after. May do a follow up vid on it here in the near future
unless ya worried bout sparks n fires, dont put the arrester back"
i dont know alot sorry but unless its fire season leave it out.
Thanks for watching my video👍, you nailed it, that’s the beauty of this mod, the spark arrester is still functional, either way, just lettin her breath a bit more, seems to be running cooler as well
Dont cut it back you'll melt your chain brake handle lol dont do it
an stop air
How much louder is it ?
It’s a bit loaded than before, but not as bad as the old HOMELITE XL12
exhaust defector! Make sure you don't open to MUCH!!! It will make a gas pig out of it. More is NOT better!
Fuel pig? Ok maybe, she might use a bit more than it did before, fatting the carb will resort to more fuel consumption, but the power gain is much more significant than fuel usage. Before the mod, I could barely set the dogs into the wood and she would start to bog, GREATLY in fact...even running the stock 20” smaller bar and chain set up, something had to be done! I will take power over fuel economy any day! It’s a different saw now, tested in hard wood, she still gets it! 55cc
Generally when someone does something like this they're not concerned about fuel. Keyword performance
how big can the holes be before one loses operating compression as a result of insufficient back-pressure???
Not any larger than the exhaust port coming from the cylinder head, might as well just straight pipe it which will gain a power loss. 2 stokes need a bit of back pressure in order to preform at there peak power band, during the rpm range and at full throttle. The large “can” or muffler, acts as an expansion chamber, then exits out through the oem port. I don’t have the exact equation for exhaust to port material removal, as some companies have spent a ton of money on this exact formula, all I know is, that this mod helped this saw cut faster in the wood, plus pull a larger bar/ longer chain, in which creates more drag for the saw, than what it was designed to do. Take it for what it’s worth, don’t do it if your not comfortable with the saw using more fuel, won’t lie, the saw will consume more fuel but in my experience it will stay cooler during the warmer months with a bit more power! Hope this helps?
Two strokes use exhaust backpressure and pulses instead of valves to get it to run in tune... you just wrecked it... lol...
It wrecked my chain brake lever, melted it right down lol! A longer tail pipe shield solved that issue, it pulls the longer bar just fine, even better now than before imo.
Didn't really see if the saw is badass or not in this video. I have a 455 rancher as well and ran it for maybe 3 hours tops . I owned it for a little over a year and I have to take it to the shop bc it doesn't run right. It'll cut for about half hour then dies out and have to wait 15 minutes to run again before it does again. Any idea? I'm pissed for spending 450 bucks at d&b in lagrande oregon on a saw that couldn't even cut a full load of wood.
Should have went with the 391 stihl
Dang that really sucks about your saw, did you bye it new or reconditioned? The only problem I’ve had with my is the fuel line rotted in to, luckily I had another saw with my. It was dumping fuel everywhere. Stihl makes a great product also
It sounds to me like it's not all broken in yet, idk what it is about chainsaws but my best saws were disappointing as all hell when new,after 6 or so tanks of fuel( my book says you should go through 2 tanks) then you can dial your carb in properly, my oldest saw I currently have is a Husqvarna 41 back in the early-mid 90's when it was brand new it would flood out after about 30 min,or when you got it hot and shut it off it would be a pain to start after using it all summer all that went away and I still use it today it always starts by 4 pulls and never dies and the power is more than acceptable for what it is,very reliable, I also have a 3314 poulan I have had for a couple years and that thing took forever to break in it was real weak a nightmare to start ECT now it starts up like my 41 and runs good( I need to adjust it a bit though) , and my newest 590 timberwolf it started good out of the box but I shut it off and it flooded so bad I took the sparkplug out and it was dripping I cleaned it up and ran the thing through 2 tanks like the book suggest and I have no problems with it at all now( it's my new favorite) ,my 450 rancher was similar when new approx a decade ago , you say you only have 3 hours on it I say try running the shit out of it with good fuel for a few tanks and see if it levels out and then adjust your carb after a good break in, 3 hours over a year or so is not an ideal break in, also when it dies take the plug out and see if it's wet,if it is dry it on your shirt,pull the rope with thee plug out Killswitch on kill then reinstall it and see if it fires right up, if it dies and it's dry as a bone you have another issue, likely a cracked or pinched fuel line, sawdust in the fuel filter or diaphragm has issues,my bet is it's flooding and needs to break in from some hillbilly &budlight type of use, again idk why on these thing the carb is affected by break but my experience is it most certainly is,don't give up on it chainsaws are about as high maintenance as women that's why when I get one broke in working good I keep it😉
What kind of fuel are you using ran the heck out of my 455 for years
@@rubentrujillo7624
Non ethanol 50:1
Check the primer bulb those are notorious for causing air leaks when they get warm
Only More noise
It’s been proven, this mod works. It’s not a theory or myth any longer, watch Dyno Joes channel, he has many videos of standard muffler mods, like this one, on stock saws, and ported saws. Power gains are even greater on the ported saws, same mod. It’s really not that much noisier, just a slightly different tone. I found that a longer defectors seems to help kill some of the extra noise
@@tfloutdoors327 ok never mine just a stupi coment of MY part
If you don’t adjust High ccw , the saw will run too lean!!!! Same bullshit with k& n air filters.
Correct!👍