I'm a retired mechanic and I saw how GM and Ford Motors destroyed their V8 engines from 71 to present day, I never thought about the small engines two or four cycle being choked down, makes sense what this guy is doing here, but you don't want to take all the back pressure out of the muffler, as for the intake, the more air that carb can get the better it'll run with more power. These Poulan Pro chainsaws are really good chainsaws, I have a Poulan Pro 220 42cc chainsaw that I bought in December of 2000 after we had a major ice storm in southeastern Oklahoma, it actually sets in the shop more than it's used, but it's never given me any problems until the bearings went out in the bar tip roller, you can't buy a new bar with the built in chain tensioner, they don't make them anymore, you have to purchase the chain tensioner with the pin and screw that goes into the slot at the bottom of the clutch brake cover to use with the old style bar, like what the big chainsaws have, but other than that, it's still a good saw.
Back pressure is what I was worried about. I thought about just cutting the tops off the tubes instead removing the whole thing. I’ll have to try it on one of these to see if there’s a noticeable difference.
This muffler is the same on Husky 240. If you break the spot wealds coming from engine site, you can wrap the metal oval piece going around removable screw tubes using needle nose pliers and remove it from the back. On the front the metal blocking the slits can be remove also; it's not welded, leaving fully open muffler. This way you can keep the screen and cover. Cover's dome can be pounded on the piece of wood with the indent carved in it, using half inch ball bearing and punch or piece of steel shaped into the ball. Husky 240 is 38ccs engine and I could install non-skip chain on the saw and cut fully frozen birch trunk.
Thanks for the video. I drilled 10 ⅛" holes in those "sleeves" on the stock muffler. So far its working to release excess heat without making it too much louder/ messing with the backpressure too much. PR4218
I made a custom exhaust for my poulan 260 pro I keep in my one offroad recovery truck just for trees across the roads and stuff and I also opened up the airbox a bit and I ended up having to go with about .40 for spark plug gap because it ran great but once it warmed up it would run funny and the gap fixed it completely and I moved the gap up slowly as I tuned it and 40 was perfect . Which makes sense because I opened up the exhaust and intake so it has a ton more air flow in and out and so you need more gap when you do that stuff :) these mods woke my poulan pro 260 right up like a different machine it got rid of the boggy delay they have stock
Pretty cool. You never know when that saw is going to come in handy. I have one for both of our trail trucks. There’s one area we go 4 wheeling at that has a camp in the woods for people down on their luck. When we would go there we would cut trees that fell so they would have fire wood.
Sorry that I'm getting to see the video late but what model or brand carburetor did you get from the Internet or Amazon wherever you got it!! Really would like to know and appreciate the model number of the car please!!?
Just removing the screen and lid makes it run better and drops temperature by 20 degrees or more during summer heat But switching saws at every fuel up is best and let engine warm up is a cly saver
New subscriber!! Sorry that I'm getting to see the video late but what model or brand carburetor did you get from the Internet or Amazon wherever you got it!! Really would like to know and appreciate the model number of the car please!!?
@@randytrivitt6539 all most all the kits I pick up I find on Amazon. The brand I get is HIPA. I’ve had really good luck with their products. Once in a while I come across something they do not have carb kits for then I just grab one on Amazon that seems to be a good deal.
Just bought a brand new out of the box Poulan Pro 18-inch the red version the older one drilled three holes into the air box etc then pulled those little cylinders out of the exhaust now the saw cranks on the first pull and runs a million times better. I was curious though with your experience with different types of saws do you know if it would be possible to get a little more power out of my saw Maybe by putting bigger Jets or do you know of any hacks I can do? I've got a little mechanical ability from workin on bikes and stuff. Without going into the motor too hard
I mostly mess around with getting better flow out the exhaust and playing with the carbs a little. Now the one thing I was thinking about is smoothing the exhaust port out some. Not port it out all crazy but smooth it out and maybe just open it up a touch just to see the difference. There’s a lot of tricks out there but the good ones can start costing some $$$.
@@GenerationX1971 id.love to see a vid on it if you decide to do it!. Tbh my uncle has one of them high dollar stihl saws bit i just cant see payin that much more money for it. My grandpa had a poulan saw and he said the only issue he had was fuel lines. But anyhow ima subscribe and hope to see some more content in the future.
Have you considered that those sleeves might actually function as a heat shield for the bolt heads? It seems with the bolt heads exposed inside the muffler, they may get hotter and transfer heat back into the cylinder where they are bolted in. I could be totally wrong about this. It's just something that seems possible.
@@GenerationX1971 good to know. I have an old Poulan Pro that I haven't cranked in several years. I recently decided to pull it out and I'm looking at options to make it "better". Thanks
How do you remove the muffler? I have a similar Poulan, a Wood Shark 1950le. The muffler has the small tubes, like yours, which house 2 inverted torx bolts. Nothing on Earth I can find will fit down those tubes to remove the bolts
I found a set of bits at Harbor Freight that are about 5 or 6 inches long. They also had a set that folds up that are long enough reach. I’ve used them also. With the long ones I use a ratchet to brake them loose instead of my drill. I broke the bit on one using the drill to try and break it loose. The set that folds up works well with the stubborn ones that are real tight. You can apply some good pressure on it to get them loose. Hope this helps you out.
@@GenerationX1971 any idea the name of the actual bit? I swear I've scouted the internet and not seen ONE e torx/inverted torx bit or driver that is narrow enough to fit down those tubes. So are your bolts torx head or inverted torx? Mine are inverted, meaning I need a socked to go AROUND the bolt. So in other words, I need a socket that will fit around the shape of a star
@@JasonTylerRicci all the saws I have with that style muffler take the bit that goes into the head. I have not came across any that have the style your dealing with. Wish I could be of more help. Keep us posted with what you figure out.
@@JasonTylerRiccithose are normally called splined sockets but there are different types. If you can't even find the right tool I hope you abandoned your plans to work on the saw. What you actually probably needed for that saw was a T27 long reach torx socket. But if you truly had splined studs holding your woodshark muffler on you would want spline sockets not torx bits or sockets.
I'm a retired mechanic and I saw how GM and Ford Motors destroyed their V8 engines from 71 to present day, I never thought about the small engines two or four cycle being choked down, makes sense what this guy is doing here, but you don't want to take all the back pressure out of the muffler, as for the intake, the more air that carb can get the better it'll run with more power. These Poulan Pro chainsaws are really good chainsaws, I have a Poulan Pro 220 42cc chainsaw that I bought in December of 2000 after we had a major ice storm in southeastern Oklahoma, it actually sets in the shop more than it's used, but it's never given me any problems until the bearings went out in the bar tip roller, you can't buy a new bar with the built in chain tensioner, they don't make them anymore, you have to purchase the chain tensioner with the pin and screw that goes into the slot at the bottom of the clutch brake cover to use with the old style bar, like what the big chainsaws have, but other than that, it's still a good saw.
Back pressure is what I was worried about. I thought about just cutting the tops off the tubes instead removing the whole thing. I’ll have to try it on one of these to see if there’s a noticeable difference.
This muffler is the same on Husky 240. If you break the spot wealds coming from engine site, you can wrap the metal oval piece going around removable screw tubes using needle nose pliers and remove it from the back. On the front the metal blocking the slits can be remove also; it's not welded, leaving fully open muffler. This way you can keep the screen and cover. Cover's dome can be pounded on the piece of wood with the indent carved in it, using half inch ball bearing and punch or piece of steel shaped into the ball. Husky 240 is 38ccs engine and I could install non-skip chain on the saw and cut fully frozen birch trunk.
I drilled a hole in the front top corner of the muffler on mine and it made a difference.
Thanks for the video. I drilled 10 ⅛" holes in those "sleeves" on the stock muffler. So far its working to release excess heat without making it too much louder/ messing with the backpressure too much. PR4218
It seems to help mine out. At least so far lol 👍
I made a custom exhaust for my poulan 260 pro I keep in my one offroad recovery truck just for trees across the roads and stuff and I also opened up the airbox a bit and I ended up having to go with about .40 for spark plug gap because it ran great but once it warmed up it would run funny and the gap fixed it completely and I moved the gap up slowly as I tuned it and 40 was perfect . Which makes sense because I opened up the exhaust and intake so it has a ton more air flow in and out and so you need more gap when you do that stuff :) these mods woke my poulan pro 260 right up like a different machine it got rid of the boggy delay they have stock
Pretty cool. You never know when that saw is going to come in handy. I have one for both of our trail trucks. There’s one area we go 4 wheeling at that has a camp in the woods for people down on their luck. When we would go there we would cut trees that fell so they would have fire wood.
I think your modded chainsaw sounds quite a bit better. It seems more responsive & less congested.
Good conservative mod, imo!
Thanks for sharing!
I like to try and keep it to simple stuff that can be done at home. There are after market mufflers online for these but they can get costly.
Yes and I’ve removed both of the inserts in muffler also
Sorry that I'm getting to see the video late but what model or brand carburetor did you get from the Internet or Amazon wherever you got it!! Really would like to know and appreciate the model number of the car please!!?
I was wondering how fast the air filter will stop up now with the outside holes in it ?
That’s my concern with it but I’m going to try to
Really good video but I think you should have removed the spark screen from the muffler because it is highly restrictive!🙏🙏🙏
@@1cleandude I thought about it. If I used them more I probably would.
Just removing the screen and lid makes it run better and drops temperature by 20 degrees or more during summer heat
But switching saws at every fuel up is best and let engine warm up is a cly saver
New subscriber!! Sorry that I'm getting to see the video late but what model or brand carburetor did you get from the Internet or Amazon wherever you got it!! Really would like to know and appreciate the model number of the car please!!?
@@randytrivitt6539 all most all the kits I pick up I find on Amazon. The brand I get is HIPA. I’ve had really good luck with their products. Once in a while I come across something they do not have carb kits for then I just grab one on Amazon that seems to be a good deal.
Just bought a brand new out of the box Poulan Pro 18-inch the red version the older one drilled three holes into the air box etc then pulled those little cylinders out of the exhaust now the saw cranks on the first pull and runs a million times better. I was curious though with your experience with different types of saws do you know if it would be possible to get a little more power out of my saw Maybe by putting bigger Jets or do you know of any hacks I can do? I've got a little mechanical ability from workin on bikes and stuff. Without going into the motor too hard
I mostly mess around with getting better flow out the exhaust and playing with the carbs a little. Now the one thing I was thinking about is smoothing the exhaust port out some. Not port it out all crazy but smooth it out and maybe just open it up a touch just to see the difference. There’s a lot of tricks out there but the good ones can start costing some $$$.
@@GenerationX1971 id.love to see a vid on it if you decide to do it!. Tbh my uncle has one of them high dollar stihl saws bit i just cant see payin that much more money for it. My grandpa had a poulan saw and he said the only issue he had was fuel lines. But anyhow ima subscribe and hope to see some more content in the future.
Have you considered that those sleeves might actually function as a heat shield for the bolt heads? It seems with the bolt heads exposed inside the muffler, they may get hotter and transfer heat back into the cylinder where they are bolted in. I could be totally wrong about this. It's just something that seems possible.
That is a good point. I can honestly say I have never considered that. So far I haven’t had any issues but I sounds possible.
@@GenerationX1971 good to know. I have an old Poulan Pro that I haven't cranked in several years. I recently decided to pull it out and I'm looking at options to make it "better". Thanks
Biggest improvement is to cap the plug to 30 thousand cap
Easy to start then on the 4218
Thanks for tossing that in there. I’ll be sure to try the gap size👍
How do you remove the muffler? I have a similar Poulan, a Wood Shark 1950le. The muffler has the small tubes, like yours, which house 2 inverted torx bolts. Nothing on Earth I can find will fit down those tubes to remove the bolts
I found a set of bits at Harbor Freight that are about 5 or 6 inches long. They also had a set that folds up that are long enough reach. I’ve used them also. With the long ones I use a ratchet to brake them loose instead of my drill. I broke the bit on one using the drill to try and break it loose. The set that folds up works well with the stubborn ones that are real tight. You can apply some good pressure on it to get them loose. Hope this helps you out.
@@GenerationX1971 any idea the name of the actual bit? I swear I've scouted the internet and not seen ONE e torx/inverted torx bit or driver that is narrow enough to fit down those tubes. So are your bolts torx head or inverted torx? Mine are inverted, meaning I need a socked to go AROUND the bolt. So in other words, I need a socket that will fit around the shape of a star
@@JasonTylerRicci all the saws I have with that style muffler take the bit that goes into the head. I have not came across any that have the style your dealing with. Wish I could be of more help. Keep us posted with what you figure out.
@@JasonTylerRiccithose are normally called splined sockets but there are different types. If you can't even find the right tool I hope you abandoned your plans to work on the saw. What you actually probably needed for that saw was a T27 long reach torx socket. But if you truly had splined studs holding your woodshark muffler on you would want spline sockets not torx bits or sockets.
I use ear protection so the noise doesn’t bother me because I’m way out in the country 😊
Snort, Snort
Smh