I also have the 455 Rancher and had no idea. Don't believe the manual says to oil the needle bearing? I bought it new and have run probably a couple hundred hours through it over last 6 years or so. Runs like a top.
@@travish4276 had mine since 2008 never greased the needle bearing, and the first thing that failed on the chainsaw was the oiler, seized up (probably from sitting over winter) in 2024. Pulled it apart, and the old needle bearing still looked good. I did replace it and the clutch and housing just for sake of working on saw for the first time. I always thought the needle bearing got some form of lubrication from the oil from the bar. I feel like the guy in above video just burned out his clutch super bad till it was red hot and melted everything.
It’s been ran like that for a while. All the Husqvarna chainsaws I have, have a hole for greasing the roller bearing. Good to see you working on a saw rather than a snow blower!
Making me check on mine never touched that in the 22 years I've owned my 455 rancher. Has just started surging in the past week, must be time to check on the carb. This gas we have nowadays sucks!
I tighten so I know it won’t come off with the chain brake cover off so I can check that the oiler is working properly. Agreed if the cover is on. Thanks for watching!
Great video Kenny! Lots of important points raised! I’ve never seen a Stihl with crankshaft oil hole, only husky’s myself 👍 good find with the exhaust gasket :)
Kennys really pumping out the videos! Kenny that customer was lucky it didnt ruin the crankshaft. That saw is worth spending the money to have you repair it! Great job! 👍🎥🇺🇸
I stopped counting the time I had into removing the welded needle roller steel from the crank while all along keeping it round and within a couple thousandths!!
@@KensSmallEngineRepair I fully understand that and a dealer would of just told the customer, it needs a crank also and its not worth fixing. Just buy a new saw! I hope the customer appreciates you going the extra mile for him.✌
Chain of events might have been the opposite. If the clutch is slipping it will generate heat, and that might melt the plastic and dry out the needle bearing. If the saw is not oiling correctly then everything tightens up and gets warm.
Man he coulda lost the crank on that one. Ouch. They can even blow up because the heat from that failure will melt the crankshaft seals. That could have been much worse. I also wish the push lubers were easier to get grease out of when you're NOT doing the bar. I have ONE freaking saw drilled (out of many) to lube-through the easy way. But if you do it you cant SEE how much you are putting on it (and push lubers are anything but consistent) so I either end up with near none or it's splattered all over the inside of the clutch drum. So I just take it apart off and do em the hard way. Anyways, there's my ramble for the algorithm. Thanks for teaching people about this.
I sometimes bolt exhaust gasket material over the port just to get the imprint of where to cut it...... One time I forgot to do the cutout to fit. The problem was that I was tackling another issue previous to this, perhaps no spark or something and so when I went to try to start it, for the life of me I could not understand how I had just fixed that problem (no spark) and yet the damned thing is again, failing to start? Bit like slipping some black paper inside of a welder's shield the sheer confusion it creates. Excellent tip on the oiler test. Thanks.
I really do hate to say this but I will, People who have no pride in what they own and keep is Serviced and or cleaned and in good operating condition really don't have any reason to own it. This includes anything Saws, Mowers, Vehicles, Homes and whatever else they can destroy. Also someone who doesn't have any idea what they are doing (gasket) shouldn't put their hands on it to work on it. Sick trick on checking oil pump output.👍 Over here a combination wrench and a cresent wrench. 😁 Good video Brother
An impact gun and clutch removal tool www.amazon.com/ENGINERUN-Compatible-Husqvarna-Replacement-502541603/dp/B07K3YM3FN/ref=asc_df_B07K3YM3FN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241885289460&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3045637486275110785&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004338&hvtargid=pla-598617958550&psc=1&mcid=2293b03561983c66a45574b1cfe69e69 Got the clutch off. It was the drum sprocket and melted needle bearing cage that had to be heated and pried off then scraped clean and polished off the crankshaft surface to allow a new needle bearing and sprocket to fit on properly that took a lot of time.
When you have it apart grease is better. A rather sticky grease. If grease migrates out onto the clutch it is worse than oil. In between those time you can usually put a drop of motor oil at the gap inside the clutch drum.
Needle bearings and even drums are often overlooked. Always lube the bearing and inspect the drum when you change chains, I pump the needle bearing every other sharpening. Thanks for watching!
You sure about the hole in the shaft is NOT for greasing the clutch drum bearing? My 3 Huskies all are greased that way . With my 19 Stihls ZERO are greased that way
I think your right, no argument from me. I’ll have to check my saws. Easy enough to check and see if there is a cross-drilled hole in the crank! Thanks for watching!!
Hi Ken, great video loads of information. Love the trick with the rubber band. Ken, did you say it was Halloween 🎃. Loving all the videos coming through. 🇬🇧
Need your help man. I bought a used 455 rancher and can’t seem to find a clutch drum for it that looks like yours that you bought. All the one that have the big teeth like the one you have say it’s .325 and the ones that are 3/8 look totally different. Wondering if you can help me figure out.
You may be getting confused between a spur sprocket and a rim sprocket a spur sprocket has the vees that go up and down that your chain rides against where a rim sprocket has a ring or a rim that goes onto another part of the drum and it’s replaceable. Do a search for rim sprocket versus spur sprocket and get back to me. Also, what does your bar have stamped on it it should have the pitch either .325 or 3/8 also, the number of links on the chain should be there let me know.
In the video I wanted to see the chain brake which you showed for a second. It looked dark. Was that dirt or burndt? I only ask because I've seen this same damage from people running the saw with the brake on or the band not seated properly and rubbing on the drum. Keep the chainsaw videos coming!
The brake cover was overheated from the melted on needle bearing but totally functional. I have a video coming out shortly where the owner ran a 455 Rancher with the brake on and totally melted the brake housing and the plastic in it as well. Stay tuned!!
EP 0 grease is fine. Even a good quality wheel bearing grease will work. Just don’t put too much on. You don’t want to get the clutch or inside of the drum covered with grease.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair Thank you so much! And you even answered my second question with the amount being used on the bearing. I really appreciate your response. I have a 261 that I’ve owned for a just about three years now and I’ve not greased the needle bearing. Haven’t had any issues though and my last tear down I checked the bearing and it was in good order and coated in thin oil. I like to take good care of my saws and this is one more thing on my to-check list. My 261 needle is well overdue for some fresh slick. Thanks again boss! Really appreciate your time to respond!
Wow! This has a number of great, invaluable tips on how to fix my saw. Thanks!!!
That tip with the two torx drivers!! Nice idea.
Thank you for the video. Never realized the needle bearing needed grease.
most find out the hard way lol. Thanks for watching
I also have the 455 Rancher and had no idea. Don't believe the manual says to oil the needle bearing? I bought it new and have run probably a couple hundred hours through it over last 6 years or so. Runs like a top.
@@travish4276 had mine since 2008 never greased the needle bearing, and the first thing that failed on the chainsaw was the oiler, seized up (probably from sitting over winter) in 2024. Pulled it apart, and the old needle bearing still looked good. I did replace it and the clutch and housing just for sake of working on saw for the first time. I always thought the needle bearing got some form of lubrication from the oil from the bar.
I feel like the guy in above video just burned out his clutch super bad till it was red hot and melted everything.
@@karlgutenburg9176 He ran with the brake on
It’s been ran like that for a while. All the Husqvarna chainsaws I have, have a hole for greasing the roller bearing. Good to see you working on a saw rather than a snow blower!
For some reason I had a slew of 455 Ranchers come in. Coincidence?
Making me check on mine never touched that in the 22 years I've owned my 455 rancher. Has just started surging in the past week, must be time to check on the carb. This gas we have nowadays sucks!
Thanks for watching
Great trick with the drill for testing the oiler! Keeping that as a tool in the toolbox!
Great for not waking the neighbors at 6am!
No need to tighten the clutch manually, run the saw full throttle and engage the chain brake…job done.
I tighten so I know it won’t come off with the chain brake cover off so I can check that the oiler is working properly. Agreed if the cover is on. Thanks for watching!
Looks more like a classic example of somebody running the chainsaw with the brake on, usually happens when you lend your chainsaw.
Absolutely. This thing was abused!
Lots of good tips here. I also noticed Monroe CT on your receipt too 👍 I’m from Bristol
Was just up there Wednesday near ESPN
Good video. Not many people think of those bearings. Love the rubber band on the drill. I'll be using that now.
The neighbors appreciate a low noise solution especially when I’m out there at 6am fixing stuff! Thanks for watching!
Ken, this is perfect and that's the saw I have. Time to grease the bearing. Hope I didn't ruin it. Thank you
Thanks and thanks for watching!
The owner of the saw will be happy to get his saw back .great video Ken
He was! He cuts 6-8 cords a year!!
It looks like the customer has learned an expensive lesson. It looks like you have given him some extra horsepower too. Great idea to test the oiler
Thanks Joseph! Looking forward to your next project!
Great video Kenny! Lots of important points raised! I’ve never seen a Stihl with crankshaft oil hole, only husky’s myself 👍 good find with the exhaust gasket :)
I was thinking Stihl for that crankshaft hole maybe it is Husky? Now I need to look. Thanks for watching Mate!
@@KensSmallEngineRepair all good :) yeah husky for the crankshaft hole!
Nice video Ken, I like the tip about the drill and rubber bands to check the oiler.
Good catch on the muffler issue he was having. 👍
Not many homeowners check the oiler function, which leads to worn out bars and sprockets!
@leonardo migot no grease on needle bearing and it welded itself to the crankshaft and melted the oil pump pinion
Great job and video! I'm fixing to order new parts for my 455 Husky too
They are great saws, thanks for watching!
Thanks Ken for all the tips.
Thanks for watching!
You are so creative
Necessity is the Mother of Invention! Thanks for watching!
1.7k views! Awesome Ken. This guy is a better welder than I am 🤣🤣🤣. Great demonstration
Kennys really pumping out the videos! Kenny that customer was lucky it didnt ruin the crankshaft. That saw is worth spending the money to have you repair it! Great job! 👍🎥🇺🇸
I stopped counting the time I had into removing the welded needle roller steel from the crank while all along keeping it round and within a couple thousandths!!
@@KensSmallEngineRepair I fully understand that and a dealer would of just told the customer, it needs a crank also and its not worth fixing. Just buy a new saw! I hope the customer appreciates you going the extra mile for him.✌
30 dollar tip lol!!
Thanks Kenny terrific tips. I enjoy your videos very much very informative
Thanks for watching!
Hello love... You know what ken.. that's one of your best videos.. very informative and good to watch
Thanks much Love!!
🤣🤣 You two get a room!!
I like the oiler tip Ken
Thanks Bruce, I hope the traveling went smooth. I’m assuming nice weather down there eh?
@@KensSmallEngineRepair It is perfect
Chain of events might have been the opposite. If the clutch is slipping it will generate heat, and that might melt the plastic and dry out the needle bearing.
If the saw is not oiling correctly then everything tightens up and gets warm.
Man he coulda lost the crank on that one. Ouch. They can even blow up because the heat from that failure will melt the crankshaft seals. That could have been much worse.
I also wish the push lubers were easier to get grease out of when you're NOT doing the bar. I have ONE freaking saw drilled (out of many) to lube-through the easy way. But if you do it you cant SEE how much you are putting on it (and push lubers are anything but consistent) so I either end up with near none or it's splattered all over the inside of the clutch drum. So I just take it apart off and do em the hard way.
Anyways, there's my ramble for the algorithm. Thanks for teaching people about this.
I agree the spring in the push-luber should have much less pressure! Thanks for watching!
Decorating for Halloween? Presumably one filmed earlier rather that getting ready for 2023 Halloween really early"
Well done, good tips. Cheers.
I found it in a hidden directory in my phone!!!
I sometimes bolt exhaust gasket material over the port just to get the imprint of where to cut it...... One time I forgot to do the cutout to fit. The problem was that I was tackling another issue previous to this, perhaps no spark or something and so when I went to try to start it, for the life of me I could not understand how I had just fixed that problem (no spark) and yet the damned thing is again, failing to start? Bit like slipping some black paper inside of a welder's shield the sheer confusion it creates. Excellent tip on the oiler test. Thanks.
Thank you for watching
I really do hate to say this but I will, People who have no pride in what they own and keep is Serviced and or cleaned and in good operating condition really don't have any reason to own it.
This includes anything Saws, Mowers, Vehicles, Homes and whatever else they can destroy.
Also someone who doesn't have any idea what they are doing (gasket) shouldn't put their hands on it to work on it.
Sick trick on checking oil pump output.👍
Over here a combination wrench and a cresent wrench. 😁
Good video Brother
Thanks Brother. Talk soon!
I liked the drill trick also.
Simple solutions rule!
Rubberband tip AWESOME
Simplicity at is best!
excellent Ken. Great idea with the rubber band.
I love cheap solutions!
Curious, I have a customers 445 chainsaw which also has the clutch and bearings welded to the shaft. How did you get the old clutch off????
An impact gun and clutch removal tool
www.amazon.com/ENGINERUN-Compatible-Husqvarna-Replacement-502541603/dp/B07K3YM3FN/ref=asc_df_B07K3YM3FN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241885289460&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3045637486275110785&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004338&hvtargid=pla-598617958550&psc=1&mcid=2293b03561983c66a45574b1cfe69e69
Got the clutch off. It was the drum sprocket and melted needle bearing cage that had to be heated and pried off then scraped clean and polished off the crankshaft surface to allow a new needle bearing and sprocket to fit on properly that took a lot of time.
I seen a video where a guy was saying to use motor oil. Cant remember what weight. Is grease better?
For the needle bearing? Grease will stick
When you have it apart grease is better. A rather sticky grease. If grease migrates out onto the clutch it is worse than oil.
In between those time you can usually put a drop of motor oil at the gap inside the clutch drum.
Unfortunately a hard lesson there lubrication is the case here but turned into a expensive bill at that time .
Needle bearings and even drums are often overlooked. Always lube the bearing and inspect the drum when you change chains, I pump the needle bearing every other sharpening. Thanks for watching!
You sure about the hole in the shaft is NOT for greasing the clutch drum bearing? My 3 Huskies all are greased that way . With my 19 Stihls ZERO are greased that way
I think your right, no argument from me. I’ll have to check my saws. Easy enough to check and see if there is a cross-drilled hole in the crank! Thanks for watching!!
Why no grease on the oiler drive gear when you reassembled?
Good point. I’m going to see this guy this weekend I’ll make it a point to inspect and grease the gear and pump assembly. Thanks!
Hi Ken, great video loads of information. Love the trick with the rubber band. Ken, did you say it was Halloween 🎃. Loving all the videos coming through. 🇬🇧
I found some hidden folders on my phone where this and other vids have been hiding!
Need your help man. I bought a used 455 rancher and can’t seem to find a clutch drum for it that looks like yours that you bought. All the one that have the big teeth like the one you have say it’s .325 and the ones that are 3/8 look totally different. Wondering if you can help me figure out.
You may be getting confused between a spur sprocket and a rim sprocket a spur sprocket has the vees that go up and down that your chain rides against where a rim sprocket has a ring or a rim that goes onto another part of the drum and it’s replaceable. Do a search for rim sprocket versus spur sprocket and get back to me. Also, what does your bar have stamped on it it should have the pitch either .325 or 3/8 also, the number of links on the chain should be there let me know.
Maybe I missed it, but how does that bearing get lubricated?
My saw leaks oil all over the place. Maybe that mine is still functioning?
In the video I wanted to see the chain brake which you showed for a second. It looked dark. Was that dirt or burndt? I only ask because I've seen this same damage from people running the saw with the brake on or the band not seated properly and rubbing on the drum. Keep the chainsaw videos coming!
The brake cover was overheated from the melted on needle bearing but totally functional. I have a video coming out shortly where the owner ran a 455 Rancher with the brake on and totally melted the brake housing and the plastic in it as well. Stay tuned!!
@@KensSmallEngineRepair Can't wait!
$100 In parts, plus labor, all over some lube.
Cha Ching for me!
Quality vid.
What oil or grease would your recommend to lubricate the needle bearing?
EP 0 grease is fine. Even a good quality wheel bearing grease will work. Just don’t put too much on. You don’t want to get the clutch or inside of the drum covered with grease.
@@KensSmallEngineRepair Thank you so much! And you even answered my second question with the amount being used on the bearing.
I really appreciate your response.
I have a 261 that I’ve owned for a just about three years now and I’ve not greased the needle bearing.
Haven’t had any issues though and my last tear down I checked the bearing and it was in good order and coated in thin oil.
I like to take good care of my saws and this is one more thing on my to-check list. My 261 needle is well overdue for some fresh slick.
Thanks again boss! Really appreciate your time to respond!