I would love to pick your brain about FL roofing! Up in PA it's a different ballgame and I have to learn FL systems, so I basically watch all your videos! :)
Hello, thanks for the video. Who is the supplier of your metal roof? I am actually looking for double lock standing seam metal roofing due to my 2:12 low roof pitch. Thanks so much...
We have a couple that we use regularly - depending upon location and lead times. 2/12 is easy, please reach out to support@perkinsroofing.net to set up a free estimate.
Planning to reroof my shingle roof. Keeping shingle but asking for a secondary water barrier. One company that I'm thinking about going with said they would use Polyanchor HV and Polystick TU plus. Curious to get your thoughts!
TU Plus is meant for tiles. I generally go MTS Plus and IR-xE under shingles direct to deck, but if you want to nail the base down then go HV and MTS Plus.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Thanks for the response! Interesting. Are there cons with using TU plus on HV for shingle? It looks like it has higher mills than MTS Plus so it's thicker, would that not be a good thing? Also, any concerns doing direct to deck if next time I reroof and codes have changed around underlayment requiring the need to remove the deck too?
@@nicholaskreps It's definitely a more difficult tear off to demo an SA, but it does get a better pull rating in the wind tunnel. I would have to ask my friends @PolyglassUSA for help on that one, I'm not sure if there are drawbacks to TU under shingle, but TU is meant to be a tile underlayment (hence TU), so perhaps XFR might be the better bet for beefing the system up, since it is also 80 mil.
What attic venting system did you use on this particular roof installation per the: 2024 Florida Roofing Code Updates? Almost looks invisible unless I am missing something...
The ventilation on the roof is all through the soffits, they didn't have ridge vents or a solar vent, though with that darker color - I would recommend adding a solar vent for some active ventilation in the summer. It will help the AC from over working and the ducts from sweating.
Quick question - I live in the HVHZ in FL and I'm in the process of looking for roofers. With regards to underlayments, as you've mentioned, it's harder to demo SA which is why I'm not a fan of it. Is it possible to get one 1 layer of mechanically fasted underlayment and then on top the SA? If that's not possible, maybe 2 30lb papers and then SA on top? I just like the benefits the SA provides but really don't want it installed Direct-to-Deck. (This would be for a shingle roof). Awesome video by the way!
Thank you, give us a shout. We are the masters of HVHZ. Yes, this is what we did on this house. The base layer is mechanically fastened Polyanchor HV (55 mil)and the second is Polyglass XFR (80 mil). The Polyanchor is way better than 30, all the 30 lbs are garbage except for Tamko and that's no where close in quality to the Polyanchor. The uplift on Polyanchor is 2.5x 30 lb
@@perkinsroofingcorp Thank you for the response. It's really helpful. I did indeed decide to reach out to you guys and now have a scheduled appointment for this upcoming Monday. We've had 2 roofers come and they've had wildly different solutions to 2 areas of our roof, so I'm really looking forward to hearing a 3rd opinion from a reputable roofer. Your videos have been really informative and useful, and will help in having a frank conversation regarding our roof. So once again, thank you.
I wonder about the screw off of the metal panels when you hit those fat caps? Can you comment please? Never mind, didn’t realize you were doing standing seam, but still wonder exposed fasteners would be challenging with those fat caps.
Looks great! Nice details. Hopefully they pass the new law allowing homeowners in HOAs to put metal roofs. I would definitely go this route if my HOA would allow it.
Yes, standing seam roofs are the best. This roof was done in an HOA that was originally all concrete tile and they had a vote to approve standing seam metal.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Unfortunately I don't think the HOA where I live will be that lenient, lol. This is the new proposed law which will hopefully pass this year www.flsenate.gov/Session/Bill/2024/293/BillText/Filed/PDF. I need to replace my roof before 2025, so hopefully this kicks in this year and i'll be calling you for a quote on a new standing seam roof!
No, that was installed correctly. This is how the Polyanchor was originally designed. Keep in mind I'm the test dummy for many Polyglass products as I'm their top installer in Florida. This product has since changed. There is a new video coming out in a couple weeks about the changes to the Polyanchor.
I recently watched a video presentation from the My Safe Florida Home program discussing the latest Florida HVHZ codes and insurance requirements, particularly related to Secondary Water Resistance (SWR). One point they mentioned is that instead of fully covering the whole roof decking with peel-and-stick underlayment, the updated Florida HVHZ codes allows for a different approach. You can now apply 3 ¾-inch seam tape on all the roof seams, followed by a mechanically fastened underlayment. This could be a much better and more cost-effective option when it comes time to re-roof. Glenn Stephens, an inspector from Florida featured in the video, mentioned that he used this method for his own home. If you’re interested, you can search for the video titled "My Safe Florida Home, Simpson Strong-Tie, and FABI Present: Keep Your Roof On!" on TH-cam. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to post the link directly. I’d appreciate hearing your thoughts on this option.
Code has allowed this for a number of years. It's either 1. a worse option or 2. more expensive. The seam-tape is more labor intensive than covering the entire roof and the savings on the material for the seam tape alone is basically negated by the increased labor / time to install. Not even including a nailable base sheet - which are all terrible outside of the Polyanchor in this video. All the #30 papers now are crap except for Tamko and any of these nailable sheets are less milage than a full water-barrier. The XFR is doubly superior as it's a fire barrier and water barrier in one, so this install meets Miami-Dade UL listing, is a SWR and is nearly 2x thicker than double VersaShield (which isn't a water barrier) and Grace Ice and Water all in one.
@@perkinsroofingcorp I just worry about what its going to cost me down the road the next time I have to re-roof and if I'll have to replace all my decking then because of the stick-on product ? Is that still an issue with the newer peel-and-stick underlayments products ?
@@Mark-o5f Yes, if you go direct-to-deck then it's either A. a very difficult demo and will result in an extra charge or B. will require plywood re-sheathing if it can't be removed without damaging the plywood, using seam tape is still installing SA direct to the plywood though and you can recover over the wood, the issue is finding damaged structure without visibly seeing the condition of the wood. Polyanchor is built as a recovery surface over SA direct installs, as well as a 55 mil base that is far superior to the #30s out there.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Could you clarify your concerns regarding the use of seam tape followed by Polyanchor or the 55 mil base? My understanding is that this approach complies with HVHZ and Florida Building Code requirements for secondary water resistance (SWR). It also seems to avoid future issues like re-sheathing plywood, while being more efficient and cost-effective than applying self-adhering material to the entire deck. I'd appreciate your insights on this.
@@Mark-o5f It's fine if you want to avoid the re-demo issues, but it's not saving any money on the back end and the full SWR barrier is better than just seam tape. In the instance of a metal roof, it's irrelevant as a 24 GA kynar coated metal roof should last 50 years away from salt water. The XFR is 80 mils thick and is a fire barrier as well as a water barrier - so it has a UL listing which you need for HVHZ ( not for FL bldg code ).
I would love to pick your brain about FL roofing! Up in PA it's a different ballgame and I have to learn FL systems, so I basically watch all your videos! :)
Thanks, shoot me an email and we can schedule something. tim@perkinsroofing.net
Thanks for the help last year with my questions. The new asphalt roof here in St Pete has been great.
Any time Dave, we are always glad to be of service.
These are very good videos
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!
the roof looks great, thank you fir the video
Thanks Alan!
nice work!
Thank you!
Hello, thanks for the video. Who is the supplier of your metal roof? I am actually looking for double lock standing seam metal roofing due to my 2:12 low roof pitch. Thanks so much...
We have a couple that we use regularly - depending upon location and lead times. 2/12 is easy, please reach out to support@perkinsroofing.net to set up a free estimate.
Planning to reroof my shingle roof. Keeping shingle but asking for a secondary water barrier. One company that I'm thinking about going with said they would use Polyanchor HV and Polystick TU plus. Curious to get your thoughts!
TU Plus is meant for tiles. I generally go MTS Plus and IR-xE under shingles direct to deck, but if you want to nail the base down then go HV and MTS Plus.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Thanks for the response! Interesting. Are there cons with using TU plus on HV for shingle? It looks like it has higher mills than MTS Plus so it's thicker, would that not be a good thing? Also, any concerns doing direct to deck if next time I reroof and codes have changed around underlayment requiring the need to remove the deck too?
@@nicholaskreps It's definitely a more difficult tear off to demo an SA, but it does get a better pull rating in the wind tunnel. I would have to ask my friends @PolyglassUSA for help on that one, I'm not sure if there are drawbacks to TU under shingle, but TU is meant to be a tile underlayment (hence TU), so perhaps XFR might be the better bet for beefing the system up, since it is also 80 mil.
Nice video!
Thank you!
What attic venting system did you use on this particular roof installation per the: 2024 Florida Roofing Code Updates? Almost looks invisible unless I am missing something...
The ventilation on the roof is all through the soffits, they didn't have ridge vents or a solar vent, though with that darker color - I would recommend adding a solar vent for some active ventilation in the summer. It will help the AC from over working and the ducts from sweating.
Would like to have seen more of the roof detail
Which detail in particular. I can try to highlight on the next metal roof video.
Great video
Thank you, the difference between HVHZ (high velocity hurricane zone) and FBC (Florida Building Code) can get confusing.
Who can I contact to get a quote for a new roof install in the South Florida Broward county area ?
Please call Marie at the Miami / Broward office (305) 687-6521. --- THANKS!
Quick question - I live in the HVHZ in FL and I'm in the process of looking for roofers. With regards to underlayments, as you've mentioned, it's harder to demo SA which is why I'm not a fan of it. Is it possible to get one 1 layer of mechanically fasted underlayment and then on top the SA? If that's not possible, maybe 2 30lb papers and then SA on top? I just like the benefits the SA provides but really don't want it installed Direct-to-Deck. (This would be for a shingle roof).
Awesome video by the way!
Thank you, give us a shout. We are the masters of HVHZ.
Yes, this is what we did on this house. The base layer is mechanically fastened Polyanchor HV (55 mil)and the second is Polyglass XFR (80 mil). The Polyanchor is way better than 30, all the 30 lbs are garbage except for Tamko and that's no where close in quality to the Polyanchor. The uplift on Polyanchor is 2.5x 30 lb
@@perkinsroofingcorp
Thank you for the response. It's really helpful.
I did indeed decide to reach out to you guys and now have a scheduled appointment for this upcoming Monday. We've had 2 roofers come and they've had wildly different solutions to 2 areas of our roof, so I'm really looking forward to hearing a 3rd opinion from a reputable roofer.
Your videos have been really informative and useful, and will help in having a frank conversation regarding our roof.
So once again, thank you.
@@humanenigma7 Thank you, looking forward to seeing you Monday!
I wonder about the screw off of the metal panels when you hit those fat caps? Can you comment please?
Never mind, didn’t realize you were doing standing seam, but still wonder exposed fasteners would be challenging with those fat caps.
Yeah, they have different cap sizes for 5V, I try to avoid 5V install. It's not a real metal roof in my opinion.
Looks great! Nice details. Hopefully they pass the new law allowing homeowners in HOAs to put metal roofs. I would definitely go this route if my HOA would allow it.
Yes, standing seam roofs are the best. This roof was done in an HOA that was originally all concrete tile and they had a vote to approve standing seam metal.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Unfortunately I don't think the HOA where I live will be that lenient, lol. This is the new proposed law which will hopefully pass this year www.flsenate.gov/Session/Bill/2024/293/BillText/Filed/PDF. I need to replace my roof before 2025, so hopefully this kicks in this year and i'll be calling you for a quote on a new standing seam roof!
Metal roofs are ugly, tile is way nicer
@@perkinsroofingcorp If you live close to the ocean they will corrode, unless its SS or copper those are very expensive
@@hansgruber2509 Aluminum will last next to the ocean, as long as the correct fasteners are also used.
should that poly be installed granular up, you said its slipperly , you did it WRONG
No, that was installed correctly. This is how the Polyanchor was originally designed. Keep in mind I'm the test dummy for many Polyglass products as I'm their top installer in Florida. This product has since changed. There is a new video coming out in a couple weeks about the changes to the Polyanchor.
I recently watched a video presentation from the My Safe Florida Home program discussing the latest Florida HVHZ codes and insurance requirements, particularly related to Secondary Water Resistance (SWR). One point they mentioned is that instead of fully covering the whole roof decking with peel-and-stick underlayment, the updated Florida HVHZ codes allows for a different approach. You can now apply 3 ¾-inch seam tape on all the roof seams, followed by a mechanically fastened underlayment. This could be a much better and more cost-effective option when it comes time to re-roof.
Glenn Stephens, an inspector from Florida featured in the video, mentioned that he used this method for his own home.
If you’re interested, you can search for the video titled "My Safe Florida Home, Simpson Strong-Tie, and FABI Present: Keep Your Roof On!" on TH-cam. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to post the link directly. I’d appreciate hearing your thoughts on this option.
Code has allowed this for a number of years. It's either 1. a worse option or 2. more expensive.
The seam-tape is more labor intensive than covering the entire roof and the savings on the material for the seam tape alone is basically negated by the increased labor / time to install. Not even including a nailable base sheet - which are all terrible outside of the Polyanchor in this video. All the #30 papers now are crap except for Tamko and any of these nailable sheets are less milage than a full water-barrier.
The XFR is doubly superior as it's a fire barrier and water barrier in one, so this install meets Miami-Dade UL listing, is a SWR and is nearly 2x thicker than double VersaShield (which isn't a water barrier) and Grace Ice and Water all in one.
@@perkinsroofingcorp I just worry about what its going to cost me down the road the next time I have to re-roof and if I'll have to replace all my decking then because of the stick-on product ? Is that still an issue with the newer peel-and-stick underlayments products ?
@@Mark-o5f Yes, if you go direct-to-deck then it's either A. a very difficult demo and will result in an extra charge or B. will require plywood re-sheathing if it can't be removed without damaging the plywood, using seam tape is still installing SA direct to the plywood though and you can recover over the wood, the issue is finding damaged structure without visibly seeing the condition of the wood. Polyanchor is built as a recovery surface over SA direct installs, as well as a 55 mil base that is far superior to the #30s out there.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Could you clarify your concerns regarding the use of seam tape followed by Polyanchor or the 55 mil base? My understanding is that this approach complies with HVHZ and Florida Building Code requirements for secondary water resistance (SWR). It also seems to avoid future issues like re-sheathing plywood, while being more efficient and cost-effective than applying self-adhering material to the entire deck. I'd appreciate your insights on this.
@@Mark-o5f It's fine if you want to avoid the re-demo issues, but it's not saving any money on the back end and the full SWR barrier is better than just seam tape.
In the instance of a metal roof, it's irrelevant as a 24 GA kynar coated metal roof should last 50 years away from salt water.
The XFR is 80 mils thick and is a fire barrier as well as a water barrier - so it has a UL listing which you need for HVHZ ( not for FL bldg code ).
Not bad dude but can you swing a hammer
A little bit, but admittedly not nearly as good as my guys.
The original roof was 1000% better looking, horrible color 100
Personally, I love the charcoal gray!