This is mostly from experience, conversations with engineering friends in the industry and from reading the building code updates; however our team does go through product certifications for each manufacturer we install with and does other certifications such as CERTA, OSHA, etc.
Once again a very educational video- I have a question as I need a new roof (live in Orlando)- replacing a concrete tile roof with possibly stone coated metal or tile. One roofer has indicated that his company installs all roofs in our area according to HVHZ code (battens for metal roof and nailing according to HVHZ code)- is that overkill?
Thank you! HVHZ does not require battens unless the slope of the roof is greater than 6/12. I like direct-to-deck attachment better when under that slope. For metal, the best install for HVHZ would be 1 ply of Polyanchor HV and a fire/water shield of Polyglass XFR SA installed after. Then the metal panels.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Based on my house Roofr report, the majority of the roof has 7/12 slope (the rest is either 5/12 or 6/12)- are battens still recommended? Not sure if battens can be placed only on the 7/12 slopes and not the 5-6/12 slopes- doesn't seem like this would be recommended.
Thank you Tim for all your insight and honesty in your videos. As a homeowner in Broward, I am in need of a new roof and have tried contacting your company to directly get in contact with you without success. Is there a best way to get in contact with yourself and not just a sales associate? I appreciate all your knowledge you continue to share and hope to become a lifetime client.
Thank you Tim for your great videos. I live in Broward County and I have questions regarding the L Flashings as per the different codes. Does any of the codes require the wall flashings to be installed with a counterflashing and weep/drip screed for the stucco to be able to release its moisture? Could you please point me to the best standards when installing wall flashings behind stucco? Does it make more than an esthetic difference to install the wall flashings over the stucco? Thank you so much.
Yes, new construction absolutely requires this if the wall flashing detail is "L" metal with stucco back down over it. The other method is just to install termination bar and counter flashing 8" up the wall, caulk the counter flashing and there are two different types of counter flashing - one that can be stuccoed over and another that is to be left exposed with the caulk bead as the primary sealant (NOTE: This caulk will not last the roof life and will need re-sealed as regular maintenance). Therefore - stuccoing back down over either transition is the best method to fully seal the wall transition. Please note, depending on the inspector --- during re-roof they may not require flashing metals to be replaced. On our contract, we have this as an optional item depending on the condition of the existing metal and if the inspector requires it, because it can add a decent amount to the contract total depending on total LF of wall transition.
Thank you Tim for sharing this. From your experience, is it likely that a wall flashing in good shape at the time of re roofing could last a second roof’s life? Or is it better to change them at time of re roofing to avoid having to open the roof a few years later? Thank you!
@@pzcx0p163 It's definitely better to change them, but more expensive. The flashing can last the life of the second roof, depending on how they are installed, type of metal, is the building maintained and painted regularly, etc.
Hi Tim, If you put a self-adhere membrane instead of a 30# felt, what happens when the time comes for re-roofing? Would the membrane come out or would you need to replace the roof deck? Also, what are "synthetics"? (you say they are lighter than 30# and that you don't like them). What brands of 30# felt are the thickest/best quality? Thank you!
It is most definitely a more difficult demo for the next contractor, but it will come off - just like a hot mopped layer will still come off of the wood. Tamko is the best 30# on the market - we use it with shingle roofs in HVHZ. For tile or metal roofs we usually use GAP (which is better than Apoc and others), since they are getting an additional water barrier on top anyway.
You basically bastardize your deck and add yourself to the list of Guinea Pigs doing this practice. Mike Silvers, Technical Director of the FRSA says that you can simply leave it in place during the next re-roof and go back over it with a new tin cap and new peel and stick for tile roofs. This Is being proposed by Mr Silvers for the 2023 code. Miami Dade and Broward are firmly opposed for good reason. If it was true that it could be removed very easily upon removing during the next reroofing, that just means the wind could pull it off easier.
FYI: At this current time of writting Kirsch Building Products SharkSkin Ultra and Ultra Self Adhered have the highest negative design pressures on the Florida Approval database. This Polypropylene Synthetic has the highest numbers on 1/2 and 5/8 for Direct Deck application , mechanical fastened or traditional two ply. The published numbers for Polystic are much lower. Any asphaltic Peel and stick suffers at 180 days UV exposure and sometimes look so bad at 3 months that they are a cause for concern. Mike Silvers, Technical Director has sounded the alarm that 30lb felt should be eliminated because of low performance in testing funded by a Bob Ferrante endowment. Sharkskin has been tested up to -420 psf. This value alone is greater than 913 published design pressure numbers out of 918 Mimami Dade NOA's for Non-Structural Metal Roofs that are completed systems. If you use this product under inferior asphalt shingles you would get the same hight wind performance without the additional costs. SharkSkin Ultra is currently .26 cents per square foot at ABC Medley Branch.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Great! I'm going to quote you on that about Peel and Stick coming off of the wood like hot mop because Mr Silvers, Technical Advisor to the FRSA says it would be too difficult to remove on average and that it would be far better to go over it with another tin cap of 30lb and your choice of Peel and stick or hot mop....ect....ect and that any roofer worth his salt knows where the rotten wood is. The same man is also stating that any 30lb felt is the weak link in a tile roof assembly for wind uplift performance and suggests with testing that the 30lb is performing far below previous expectations.
@@danielarguelles5241 One can guestimate where the rotten wood is, but without attic access that's not true in Florida. The primary cause of rotten wood is not water intrusion (which you can guess due to bad details, cuts, etc. - but is termite damage, often starting at the beams before reaching the plywood). Note, 30 uplift is all based on how many fasteners you use, HVHZ requires more fasteners - therefore better uplift.
GREAT video! Learned a lot!!
Thank you, I'm always glad to inform and educate about rooing.
Thanks for sharing all this info. Did you receive formal education to learn or is this all from experience?
This is mostly from experience, conversations with engineering friends in the industry and from reading the building code updates; however our team does go through product certifications for each manufacturer we install with and does other certifications such as CERTA, OSHA, etc.
Hello. I am a roofer also. Thank you for so much good information! 🙏
No problem, I'm happy to help fellow roofers and the community learn about the roofing process.
Once again a very educational video- I have a question as I need a new roof (live in Orlando)- replacing a concrete tile roof with possibly stone coated metal or tile. One roofer has indicated that his company installs all roofs in our area according to HVHZ code (battens for metal roof and nailing according to HVHZ code)- is that overkill?
Thank you! HVHZ does not require battens unless the slope of the roof is greater than 6/12.
I like direct-to-deck attachment better when under that slope.
For metal, the best install for HVHZ would be 1 ply of Polyanchor HV and a fire/water shield of Polyglass XFR SA installed after. Then the metal panels.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Based on my house Roofr report, the majority of the roof has 7/12 slope (the rest is either 5/12 or 6/12)- are battens still recommended? Not sure if battens can be placed only on the 7/12 slopes and not the 5-6/12 slopes- doesn't seem like this would be recommended.
@@heartgodmost likely it would be unnecessary if the majority of the slope is 5 or 6 on 12
I wish i had heard of you before i had my IAN destroyed roof replaced. A price quote would have been interesting.
We're here if you need us, thanks for checking out our channel!
Thank you Tim for all your insight and honesty in your videos. As a homeowner in Broward, I am in need of a new roof and have tried contacting your company to directly get in contact with you without success. Is there a best way to get in contact with yourself and not just a sales associate? I appreciate all your knowledge you continue to share and hope to become a lifetime client.
Thanks Laura, you can email me directly at vp@perkinsroofing.net
Great video!
Thank you, we appreciate the positive feedback. Please let us know if you have any questions.
Great info here! What is the new nailing code for decking on a re roof? Do you need to go back over all the decking? Thanks!
Yes, we are required to re-nail sheathing - sheathing now requires more fasteners than it did 10-20 years ago or more. Many contractors skip this.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Whats the pattern? Im in Seminole County.
@@abmcd9381 They will read on the permit, it all depends on wind upload. Patterns vary from eaves to corners to field.
Thank you Tim for your great videos. I live in Broward County and I have questions regarding the L Flashings as per the different codes. Does any of the codes require the wall flashings to be installed with a counterflashing and weep/drip screed for the stucco to be able to release its moisture? Could you please point me to the best standards when installing wall flashings behind stucco? Does it make more than an esthetic difference to install the wall flashings over the stucco? Thank you so much.
Yes, new construction absolutely requires this if the wall flashing detail is "L" metal with stucco back down over it. The other method is just to install termination bar and counter flashing 8" up the wall, caulk the counter flashing and there are two different types of counter flashing - one that can be stuccoed over and another that is to be left exposed with the caulk bead as the primary sealant (NOTE: This caulk will not last the roof life and will need re-sealed as regular maintenance). Therefore - stuccoing back down over either transition is the best method to fully seal the wall transition.
Please note, depending on the inspector --- during re-roof they may not require flashing metals to be replaced. On our contract, we have this as an optional item depending on the condition of the existing metal and if the inspector requires it, because it can add a decent amount to the contract total depending on total LF of wall transition.
Thank you Tim for sharing this. From your experience, is it likely that a wall flashing in good shape at the time of re roofing could last a second roof’s life? Or is it better to change them at time of re roofing to avoid having to open the roof a few years later? Thank you!
@@pzcx0p163 It's definitely better to change them, but more expensive. The flashing can last the life of the second roof, depending on how they are installed, type of metal, is the building maintained and painted regularly, etc.
Is the self adhere difficult to remove once you eventually need a new roof ? Great info thanks !
More difficult than a mechanically fastened base sheet, but no difference from a hot mopped base sheet.
@@perkinsroofingcorp thanks
Hi Tim, If you put a self-adhere membrane instead of a 30# felt, what happens when the time comes for re-roofing? Would the membrane come out or would you need to replace the roof deck? Also, what are "synthetics"? (you say they are lighter than 30# and that you don't like them).
What brands of 30# felt are the thickest/best quality? Thank you!
It is most definitely a more difficult demo for the next contractor, but it will come off - just like a hot mopped layer will still come off of the wood. Tamko is the best 30# on the market - we use it with shingle roofs in HVHZ. For tile or metal roofs we usually use GAP (which is better than Apoc and others), since they are getting an additional water barrier on top anyway.
You basically bastardize your deck and add yourself to the list of Guinea Pigs doing this practice. Mike Silvers, Technical Director of the FRSA says that you can simply leave it in place during the next re-roof and go back over it with a new tin cap and new peel and stick for tile roofs. This Is being proposed by Mr Silvers for the 2023 code. Miami Dade and Broward are firmly opposed for good reason. If it was true that it could be removed very easily upon removing during the next reroofing, that just means the wind could pull it off easier.
FYI: At this current time of writting Kirsch Building Products SharkSkin Ultra and Ultra Self Adhered have the highest negative design pressures on the Florida Approval database. This Polypropylene Synthetic has the highest numbers on 1/2 and 5/8 for Direct Deck application , mechanical fastened or traditional two ply. The published numbers for Polystic are much lower. Any asphaltic Peel and stick suffers at 180 days UV exposure and sometimes look so bad at 3 months that they are a cause for concern. Mike Silvers, Technical Director has sounded the alarm that 30lb felt should be eliminated because of low performance in testing funded by a Bob Ferrante endowment. Sharkskin has been tested up to -420 psf. This value alone is greater than 913 published design pressure numbers out of 918 Mimami Dade NOA's for Non-Structural Metal Roofs that are completed systems. If you use this product under inferior asphalt shingles you would get the same hight wind performance without the additional costs. SharkSkin Ultra is currently .26 cents per square foot at ABC Medley Branch.
@@perkinsroofingcorp Great! I'm going to quote you on that about Peel and Stick coming off of the wood like hot mop because Mr Silvers, Technical Advisor to the FRSA says it would be too difficult to remove on average and that it would be far better to go over it with another tin cap of 30lb and your choice of Peel and stick or hot mop....ect....ect and that any roofer worth his salt knows where the rotten wood is. The same man is also stating that any 30lb felt is the weak link in a tile roof assembly for wind uplift performance and suggests with testing that the 30lb is performing far below previous expectations.
@@danielarguelles5241 One can guestimate where the rotten wood is, but without attic access that's not true in Florida. The primary cause of rotten wood is not water intrusion (which you can guess due to bad details, cuts, etc. - but is termite damage, often starting at the beams before reaching the plywood). Note, 30 uplift is all based on how many fasteners you use, HVHZ requires more fasteners - therefore better uplift.