@@beeenn649 I flush my 4.6 every summer and run it with no thermostat. I have pulled 4 cars, several couches, and some heavier stuff with it. Nobody understands that the 4.6 block and transmission is the same platform as the truck but it does not have the same heads and intake.
I just did this on a 98 Grand Marquis. The socket size that fits the sensor is 3/4" 6pt deep well. Go to Harbor Freight and buy some "Socket Caps" ($5.00) and use one on the end of the socket. This makes access so much easier with a 9/16" open end wrench.
I believe this sensor is bad on my 2001 grand marquis. It randomly spikes the temperature gauge to maxed out and starts to kinda sputter then it goes back to normal temp reading and car resumes normal power. It never overheats either. Is this similar to what caused you to replace this part? Thanks for the video
I replaced mine because it looked old and my temp gauge was not rising when the engine temp got hot like it should. I also ended up with a misfire at normal temp so I was skeptical if it was getting hotter than it should before the fans turned on. 2001 is a different model, last one I had for 01 town car the motor went bad at 190,000. They have a cylinder overheat protection mode that will cut off fuel to protect the motor when overheated but I am not sure if 2001 has it, I know 05 and up does. I suggest replacing it if the temp does not operate properly because it can damage your engine if it doesn't know when to turn the fans on. I ended up removing my thermostat because my car has 289,000 miles and I plan to do the head gaskets soon to fix the higher temp misfire and my 170 to 190 psi compression issue I am having. It will be head gaskets, inspect timing components, and clean head ports / valves along with lapping them and making sure they seat with new valve seals. The pre 2005 engines from what I have seen were built with weak connecting rods. So any kind of over rev or slip of the transmission under load can basically cause a "money shift" over rev and stretch the rods and blow up the pistons. Official police interceptor motors out of police cars are seasoned and have the internals to keep going, if they didn't they would be replaced with a motorcraft crate engine under dealer warranty. I removed the core of my thermostat to keep my engine cold since the coolant temp and pressure was causing my issues. It's basically snipping the left and right metal sides of the thermostat to get the spring and center out along with pulling off the 2 dangling top pieces that will remain once you cut the core retainer. You have to make sure the pieces that held the center are all off of it so all you have left is the solid center to put in and use with the seal to seal the housing. It's basically just a O once you remove the core and side pieces they stamp the metal to hold it in place. You also want to make sure your reserve tank is full because sometimes it can look full but it's not. You just start the car cold and fill the coolant to the full line. You can also get into changing the water pump if it is old along with changing the thermostat if it is old. I recommend tightening the 2 bolts just a slight turn to get the threads to move then loosening them because they can be stuck on. So this in all would be the temp sensor, water pump and thermostat. The other reason I run my car and keep a core less thermostat portion in my glove box is to check and make sure my cooling system is not clogged and it stays at a low temp while driving on the highway and or with my air conditioning turned on and the fan operating for that portion and keeping it in the cold temps / Guage basically at the bottom like when you first start your car. The core less thermostat I made by as described let's the coolant circulate full blast so if it were to not stay at low temp it would mean that the radiator was clogged and not cooling efficiently. Head gasket issues can cause a temp climb along with a clogged radiator or bad water pump. So it's all how you or your mechanic knows the car like the back of your hand. We also get the bad intake gaskets or the coolant pass through underneath the intake having bad gaskets, leaking coolant and causing issues. The piece that goes across the front of the intake under it with 6 bolts has a gasket that can leak out your coolant and make overheating / loss of coolant issues too. You will see crust on the front / back of intake if it is leaking. Maule has the little gaskets for that front intake piece with the 6 bolts under it. I replaced this sensor because it was going from normal to peak hot when I was doing the head gasket misfire diagnosis as far as intentionally overheating the engine with the fan unplugged to see if the needle was rising or peeking from normal to immediately hot. It is a problem with the 4.6 where the sensor goes bad and does not read the portion between normal and hot. I suspect it might have had something to do with more thermal stress on my engine leading to head gasket issues.
Supposed to be two sensors, one is in the same area as this one attached to the cylinder head along with one in the top of the intake manifold. There is usually a wire for this CHT sensor that follows it under the intake manifold with a 2 pin connector between the wiring harness before it goes down under the intake. The CHT sensor here is the important one. This car is a 2005 and my other as similar is 06. Chassis changed from steering box in early models to rack and pinion. But the engine is about the same other than intake manifold designs and coil pack to coil on plug.
I replaced mine with the standard brand TX91 sensor. These engines have some issues with loosing coolant from the intake manifold, failed radiator fans & module unit on fan shroud, failed thermostat, or clogged radiator. You could be leaking coolant from the intake manifold and having a overheating issue that is difficult to see. Or something else that is failing and causing it to overheat. I keep a thermostat that has the core and spring assembly removed from the center for diagnosing if my car is cooling properly. I cut the left and right side from the bottom close to the O and then pull off the retaining tabs at the top of the left and right of the O. Then I run my car with the modified thermostat with no core to see if my engine retains a colder engine temperature while driving on the highway and in general. It also helps when I need to do a radiator flush by letting the coolant flow without restriction. Usually if a car is warmed up and the radiator is bad you can warm it up and feel where there are hot spots and cold spots behind the fan shroud or in front of the radiator. This car is difficult to check because of the electric fans and AC condenser. So that test would be done with a temperature reading gun or removing the bolts for the fan shroud, warming it up and then running the AC to turn the fans on for a cooling cycle. Then turning off the engine and testing behind the shroud with caution of not touching the electric fan. I also like to squeeze the top radiator hose to check and see if coolant is flowing because sometimes the leaks can cause it to not have coolant at the top hose and overheat without knowing. Running the engine with the modified thermostat will eventually get a code for coolant temp too low if it is cooling properly. The last thing could be the water pump is not working right. But the gates water pump is a good replacement. Another thing that can happen is if you use 50/50 coolant instead of concentrate, it could create a clear jelly in the cooling system and prevent water from flowing. Always use a concentrated coolant like prestone all makes and mix with 50% or less water. I also recommend using the motorcraft thermostat for the car when you do put a new one in because the diameter of the thermostat center. Might be the wrong size with a aftermarket one. If you run the car with the modified thermostat and that code goes away. Then it means the car was overheating and going into cylinder head overheat / protection mode. The car will stutter and run poorly if it overheats because the mode makes it run on less cylinders / fuel to prevent overheating. Then the code comes up and it says it overheated and went into that mode. I run a specific engine sealer in my car in order to prevent pin hole leaks from causing issues that require lots of attention. After you get a idea of what's going on, let me know if you find any of the above issues. I overhauled my head gaskets and cylinder heads on my car along with replaced and silicone sealed all my intake gaskets and the 2 gaskets that are separate under the thermostat side of the manifold cross over. There is a common leak under the metal thermostat housing on the manifold that can be fixed with the gaskets if it's not too broken in the plastic area. Or if it's too broken you can replace the manifold with OEM or aftermarket. I have been told to avoid the dorman manifold and have replaced them with a different brand, I believe was spectra on eBay. But the better manifolds have collets and threads for the 8 spark coils and run a better air flow. The manifolds are also year and model specific by numbers. But currently my 06 is running a 05 manifold. I am not sure what they make specifically for years .etc. But I have my own issue with the car and I believe ECU eventually running into that overheating mode as a error when I have my thermostat in with no codes or indication the engine is overheating. So, hopefully this info helps.
You can also check the temp sensor with a scanner like obd mx on a phone or laptop with the app called forscan. Your engine temp is going to be under the cooling pid's when you get into the gauges on the app, select pid's and look for or type coolant or temp in the search menu. You will also know if the temp sensor is the right one if you unplug the harness between the temp sensor and the engine harness side. Usually the car has a harness between the sensor and engine harness you can unplug instead of unplugging it at the sensor. My car has no reading at the dash gauge if I unplug that sensor. Good luck :)
I need your help trying to change that same sensor on my 2002 ford expedition I removed the alternator but it's something behind the alternator that's blocking me from getting any tool on it basically I don't have enough room to get to it
@@NightRider-16 No fan is factory set to run with AC on to create flow from front AC radiator thing in front of the radiator. It will turn off if you turn off the climate control. It has to run in order to work properly for AC or AC can become damaged.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf oh OK so you're saying it's normal for my fans to run constantly as long as AC is on? So basically I don't have a problem? Thank u for responding
I have a 2003 grand marquis, cooling fan is always running even when car is cold. Ac is off. No codes. Fan doesn’t run when engine shut off. Gauge seems to be working properly. Any ideas what the heck is going on?
Could be bad control module for the fan. You usually replace the assembly fan motor, housing and module. You also have the fan on for A/C and Defrost, So that requires climate control off. There is usually 3 wires to the module. The 2 big ones are power feed and small one I think blue is positive to turn on module. You poke that one with a test light connected to ground in key off, run with engine off then with engine on. If it has power it will light. Then you test again with connector unplugged at car input side to see if it is getting power with climate control off. It could be common fan module failed and stuck on or power from climate control being bad. If your getting power you can unplug the climate control and test again. You might also get a code with forscan on android or pc to obd 2 plug. i use obd link mx2 Bluetooth and forscan on my 2 lincolns. You can also change this sensor for preventative maintanence for under 20.00 my 05 town car had the fan issue and fan assembly was replaced new for 100 on ebay. My 06 vw passat the fan just locked on one day with the car off because the old fan killed the module. Let me know what issue it is if you figure it out. You also want to check chassis ground on frame and body of car. My car had no frame ground .etc.
Same here 06 crown victoria. The fans constantly run when AC is on. No cooling issues or CEL. If I turn AC off the fans stop. As soon as I crank car on cold start the fans will come on if AC is set to on. Any ideas?
Anybody know the proper volt reading from wiring harness to the temp sensor should be . Changing mine just wana check volts coming to it while i do . Being it hides under the intake and behind the alternator.
Yes it went in and out with the spark plug socket as described in this video. The sensor fits in a dry hole on my car. Coolant residue was from intake manifold gasket leaking on it. I have put these sensors in say the rear hole instead of the front hole before during previous engine assemblies. Make sure your spark plug socket has 6 sides, fits your sensor nicely and the rubber in the center is removed. My spark plug socket is called crescent, you can probably use husky .etc and you should not have any issues.
@@wspears617 No problem. I know what you are talking about and in general I have learned a trick where if you get a tiny turn tight on a old bolt when you start on it to click it free from the threads and then loosen it. You can eliminate that issue most of the time. I also use wd 40 or pb blaster on nuts and threads along with a wire brush and that trick first if they are rusty to clean them up. Then loosen till the bolt gets tight, retighten the bolt and wire brush / spray again, loosen again to attempt to get farther and repeat by hand on the loosen process till it comes off. You might find better science for the procedure to each bolt but that's the basics of tightening the threads if they are winding out damaged or abnormal and you can torque them forward as described first.
Temp guage, cylinder overheat protection and switch for fan. Overheating can be caused by a bad thermostat or bad fan control module. You replace the whole fan and control module assembly when they go bad, so you have a new motor and module in the shroud. I also remove the core of the old thermostat if the car over heats and run it with just the hole to check if the radiator is clogged or just needs more flushing.
I also change this sensor because when the car overheats it will just suddenly peg with no warning when you overheat. The cylinder head protection will activate and the car will run like a misfire because it cuts off fuel to try to save the engine from being destroyed.
One video I saw guy made a tool. Nice to see a socket can fit in to remove it. I knew there was a way to change it without removing intake manifold. It is a very sneaky place the sensor was put in behind the alternator. I noticed it leaking when changing alternator.
Usually the sensors fit in deep sockets, but that one did not and so that was how I discovered the spark plug socket fit if you remove the rubber part that holds the spark plug.
There is a connector that goes to the harness and the sensor is front driver side head according to google a little higher up. There might be a hole and nothing there if someone missed it but it's kinda hard to see. But that would be a connector with something unplugged and you would have no temp reading.
@@jaybandz2026 I can't find the part number. But I rember I bought it at O'Reilly and I believe it was a standard brand product with a tx in the part number. I recommend motorcraft from the dealership but the standard brand fits.
@@jaybandz2026 Yea the standard tx one does not have the lines on it so it fits without having to deal with that. I bought a motorcraft one with a line on the opposite side of Amazon and returned it. I don't know if they make the whole harness to the sensor thing with different side lines or like if you could file the line off and so it fit the connector. But I bought the one from O'Reillys and it didn't have the line in the rectangle part.
If we could just go back to the 60s and 70s when cars were fun to work on.
This car and motor is one of the ones I trust to not break down.
Other cars are horrible at being dependable sometimes.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf
"The more complicated the plumbing, the easier it is to stop up the works."
@@beeenn649 I flush my 4.6 every summer and run it with no thermostat.
I have pulled 4 cars, several couches, and some heavier stuff with it.
Nobody understands that the 4.6 block and transmission is the same platform as the truck but it does not have the same heads and intake.
That's awesome. Thanks for the info and the socket size. Keep up the work.
I just did this on a 98 Grand Marquis. The socket size that fits the sensor is 3/4" 6pt deep well. Go to Harbor Freight and buy some "Socket Caps" ($5.00) and use one on the end of the socket. This makes access so much easier with a 9/16" open end wrench.
I believe this sensor is bad on my 2001 grand marquis. It randomly spikes the temperature gauge to maxed out and starts to kinda sputter then it goes back to normal temp reading and car resumes normal power. It never overheats either. Is this similar to what caused you to replace this part?
Thanks for the video
I replaced mine because it looked old and my temp gauge was not rising when the engine temp got hot like it should.
I also ended up with a misfire at normal temp so I was skeptical if it was getting hotter than it should before the fans turned on.
2001 is a different model, last one I had for 01 town car the motor went bad at 190,000.
They have a cylinder overheat protection mode that will cut off fuel to protect the motor when overheated but I am not sure if 2001 has it, I know 05 and up does.
I suggest replacing it if the temp does not operate properly because it can damage your engine if it doesn't know when to turn the fans on.
I ended up removing my thermostat because my car has 289,000 miles and I plan to do the head gaskets soon to fix the higher temp misfire and my 170 to 190 psi compression issue I am having.
It will be head gaskets, inspect timing components, and clean head ports / valves along with lapping them and making sure they seat with new valve seals.
The pre 2005 engines from what I have seen were built with weak connecting rods. So any kind of over rev or slip of the transmission under load can basically cause a "money shift" over rev and stretch the rods and blow up the pistons.
Official police interceptor motors out of police cars are seasoned and have the internals to keep going, if they didn't they would be replaced with a motorcraft crate engine under dealer warranty.
I removed the core of my thermostat to keep my engine cold since the coolant temp and pressure was causing my issues.
It's basically snipping the left and right metal sides of the thermostat to get the spring and center out along with pulling off the 2 dangling top pieces that will remain once you cut the core retainer.
You have to make sure the pieces that held the center are all off of it so all you have left is the solid center to put in and use with the seal to seal the housing. It's basically just a O once you remove the core and side pieces they stamp the metal to hold it in place.
You also want to make sure your reserve tank is full because sometimes it can look full but it's not.
You just start the car cold and fill the coolant to the full line.
You can also get into changing the water pump if it is old along with changing the thermostat if it is old.
I recommend tightening the 2 bolts just a slight turn to get the threads to move then loosening them because they can be stuck on.
So this in all would be the temp sensor, water pump and thermostat.
The other reason I run my car and keep a core less thermostat portion in my glove box is to check and make sure my cooling system is not clogged and it stays at a low temp while driving on the highway and or with my air conditioning turned on and the fan operating for that portion and keeping it in the cold temps / Guage basically at the bottom like when you first start your car.
The core less thermostat I made by as described let's the coolant circulate full blast so if it were to not stay at low temp it would mean that the radiator was clogged and not cooling efficiently.
Head gasket issues can cause a temp climb along with a clogged radiator or bad water pump.
So it's all how you or your mechanic knows the car like the back of your hand.
We also get the bad intake gaskets or the coolant pass through underneath the intake having bad gaskets, leaking coolant and causing issues.
The piece that goes across the front of the intake under it with 6 bolts has a gasket that can leak out your coolant and make overheating / loss of coolant issues too.
You will see crust on the front / back of intake if it is leaking.
Maule has the little gaskets for that front intake piece with the 6 bolts under it.
I replaced this sensor because it was going from normal to peak hot when I was doing the head gasket misfire diagnosis as far as intentionally overheating the engine with the fan unplugged to see if the needle was rising or peeking from normal to immediately hot.
It is a problem with the 4.6 where the sensor goes bad and does not read the portion between normal and hot.
I suspect it might have had something to do with more thermal stress on my engine leading to head gasket issues.
Hi what year is your car? Do you know if the location would be the same on a 1999 Mercury Grand Marquis?
Supposed to be two sensors, one is in the same area as this one attached to the cylinder head along with one in the top of the intake manifold.
There is usually a wire for this CHT sensor that follows it under the intake manifold with a 2 pin connector between the wiring harness before it goes down under the intake.
The CHT sensor here is the important one.
This car is a 2005 and my other as similar is 06.
Chassis changed from steering box in early models to rack and pinion. But the engine is about the same other than intake manifold designs and coil pack to coil on plug.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf thank you so much 🙏
Sir you are a video GOD😅😅😅 THANKS SOOO MUCH. Im glad i check a few videos. Another guy was saying remove the intake😳😳😲😲 i see there is no need...
Ty u sir.. finally the video I needed
I’ve already replaced this but the problem hasn’t went away and my car still has the p1299 engine light. Could it be the wiring ?
I replaced mine with the standard brand TX91 sensor.
These engines have some issues with loosing coolant from the intake manifold, failed radiator fans & module unit on fan shroud, failed thermostat, or clogged radiator.
You could be leaking coolant from the intake manifold and having a overheating issue that is difficult to see.
Or something else that is failing and causing it to overheat.
I keep a thermostat that has the core and spring assembly removed from the center for diagnosing if my car is cooling properly.
I cut the left and right side from the bottom close to the O and then pull off the retaining tabs at the top of the left and right of the O.
Then I run my car with the modified thermostat with no core to see if my engine retains a colder engine temperature while driving on the highway and in general.
It also helps when I need to do a radiator flush by letting the coolant flow without restriction.
Usually if a car is warmed up and the radiator is bad you can warm it up and feel where there are hot spots and cold spots behind the fan shroud or in front of the radiator.
This car is difficult to check because of the electric fans and AC condenser.
So that test would be done with a temperature reading gun or removing the bolts for the fan shroud, warming it up and then running the AC to turn the fans on for a cooling cycle.
Then turning off the engine and testing behind the shroud with caution of not touching the electric fan.
I also like to squeeze the top radiator hose to check and see if coolant is flowing because sometimes the leaks can cause it to not have coolant at the top hose and overheat without knowing.
Running the engine with the modified thermostat will eventually get a code for coolant temp too low if it is cooling properly.
The last thing could be the water pump is not working right.
But the gates water pump is a good replacement.
Another thing that can happen is if you use 50/50 coolant instead of concentrate, it could create a clear jelly in the cooling system and prevent water from flowing.
Always use a concentrated coolant like prestone all makes and mix with 50% or less water.
I also recommend using the motorcraft thermostat for the car when you do put a new one in because the diameter of the thermostat center. Might be the wrong size with a aftermarket one.
If you run the car with the modified thermostat and that code goes away.
Then it means the car was overheating and going into cylinder head overheat / protection mode.
The car will stutter and run poorly if it overheats because the mode makes it run on less cylinders / fuel to prevent overheating.
Then the code comes up and it says it overheated and went into that mode.
I run a specific engine sealer in my car in order to prevent pin hole leaks from causing issues that require lots of attention.
After you get a idea of what's going on, let me know if you find any of the above issues.
I overhauled my head gaskets and cylinder heads on my car along with replaced and silicone sealed all my intake gaskets and the 2 gaskets that are separate under the thermostat side of the manifold cross over.
There is a common leak under the metal thermostat housing on the manifold that can be fixed with the gaskets if it's not too broken in the plastic area.
Or if it's too broken you can replace the manifold with OEM or aftermarket.
I have been told to avoid the dorman manifold and have replaced them with a different brand, I believe was spectra on eBay.
But the better manifolds have collets and threads for the 8 spark coils and run a better air flow.
The manifolds are also year and model specific by numbers.
But currently my 06 is running a 05 manifold.
I am not sure what they make specifically for years .etc.
But I have my own issue with the car and I believe ECU eventually running into that overheating mode as a error when I have my thermostat in with no codes or indication the engine is overheating.
So, hopefully this info helps.
You can also check the temp sensor with a scanner like obd mx on a phone or laptop with the app called forscan.
Your engine temp is going to be under the cooling pid's when you get into the gauges on the app, select pid's and look for or type coolant or temp in the search menu.
You will also know if the temp sensor is the right one if you unplug the harness between the temp sensor and the engine harness side.
Usually the car has a harness between the sensor and engine harness you can unplug instead of unplugging it at the sensor.
My car has no reading at the dash gauge if I unplug that sensor.
Good luck :)
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf turned out to be my water pump was going out. Changed that now my car is running very much better. Next will be radiator
Your the man! Life saver! 👍
Is this the same location on the 2008 Ford Econoline E250 V8 4.6?
It should be but I'm not sure. There is a wiring harness that runs to it and disconnects by the valve cover.
I need your help trying to change that same sensor on my 2002 ford expedition I removed the alternator but it's something behind the alternator that's blocking me from getting any tool on it basically I don't have enough room to get to it
There might be a foam insulator in the way if you don't see the galley in the middle.
Is it a black thing that's spongy?
Could this cause my fans to constantly run when AC is on? I don't have a CEL on or anything but fans constantly run only when AC is on. Thanks!
@@NightRider-16 No fan is factory set to run with AC on to create flow from front AC radiator thing in front of the radiator.
It will turn off if you turn off the climate control.
It has to run in order to work properly for AC or AC can become damaged.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf oh OK so you're saying it's normal for my fans to run constantly as long as AC is on? So basically I don't have a problem? Thank u for responding
@@NightRider-16 Yes with AC on and engine running it is normal.
Thanks so much definitely left a like a sub
Thank u for video it's helpful and im going to replace mine
I have a 2003 grand marquis, cooling fan is always running even when car is cold. Ac is off. No codes. Fan doesn’t run when engine shut off. Gauge seems to be working properly. Any ideas what the heck is going on?
Could be bad control module for the fan. You usually replace the assembly fan motor, housing and module. You also have the fan on for A/C and Defrost, So that requires climate control off. There is usually 3 wires to the module. The 2 big ones are power feed and small one I think blue is positive to turn on module.
You poke that one with a test light connected to ground in key off, run with engine off then with engine on. If it has power it will light.
Then you test again with connector unplugged at car input side to see if it is getting power with climate control off.
It could be common fan module failed and stuck on or power from climate control being bad.
If your getting power you can unplug the climate control and test again.
You might also get a code with forscan on android or pc to obd 2 plug.
i use obd link mx2 Bluetooth and forscan on my 2 lincolns.
You can also change this sensor for preventative maintanence for under 20.00
my 05 town car had the fan issue and fan assembly was replaced new for 100 on ebay.
My 06 vw passat the fan just locked on one day with the car off because the old fan killed the module.
Let me know what issue it is if you figure it out.
You also want to check chassis ground on frame and body of car.
My car had no frame ground .etc.
Same here 06 crown victoria. The fans constantly run when AC is on. No cooling issues or CEL. If I turn AC off the fans stop. As soon as I crank car on cold start the fans will come on if AC is set to on. Any ideas?
I used the same method but I used a 22mm open end rench
Anybody know the proper volt reading from wiring harness to the temp sensor should be . Changing mine just wana check volts coming to it while i do . Being it hides under the intake and behind the alternator.
Were you able to get the CHT sensor flush and back in correct placement.
Yes it went in and out with the spark plug socket as described in this video.
The sensor fits in a dry hole on my car.
Coolant residue was from intake manifold gasket leaking on it.
I have put these sensors in say the rear hole instead of the front hole before during previous engine assemblies.
Make sure your spark plug socket has 6 sides, fits your sensor nicely and the rubber in the center is removed.
My spark plug socket is called crescent, you can probably use husky .etc and you should not have any issues.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf Thank you
@@wspears617 No problem. I know what you are talking about and in general I have learned a trick where if you get a tiny turn tight on a old bolt when you start on it to click it free from the threads and then loosen it. You can eliminate that issue most of the time.
I also use wd 40 or pb blaster on nuts and threads along with a wire brush and that trick first if they are rusty to clean them up. Then loosen till the bolt gets tight, retighten the bolt and wire brush / spray again, loosen again to attempt to get farther and repeat by hand on the loosen process till it comes off.
You might find better science for the procedure to each bolt but that's the basics of tightening the threads if they are winding out damaged or abnormal and you can torque them forward as described first.
Mine does the half temp then shoots up and I replaced the sensor but it didn’t fix the faulty high gauge read
Did you use the standard brand sensor?
That sensor also gives info to the dash?
Temp guage, cylinder overheat protection and switch for fan.
Overheating can be caused by a bad thermostat or bad fan control module.
You replace the whole fan and control module assembly when they go bad, so you have a new motor and module in the shroud.
I also remove the core of the old thermostat if the car over heats and run it with just the hole to check if the radiator is clogged or just needs more flushing.
I also change this sensor because when the car overheats it will just suddenly peg with no warning when you overheat.
The cylinder head protection will activate and the car will run like a misfire because it cuts off fuel to try to save the engine from being destroyed.
Saved my but thanks
One video I saw guy made a tool. Nice to see a socket can fit in to remove it. I knew there was a way to change it without removing intake manifold. It is a very sneaky place the sensor was put in behind the alternator. I noticed it leaking when changing alternator.
Usually the sensors fit in deep sockets, but that one did not and so that was how I discovered the spark plug socket fit if you remove the rubber part that holds the spark plug.
I got a 98 f150 and the sensor is not there or in the hole
There is a connector that goes to the harness and the sensor is front driver side head according to google a little higher up.
There might be a hole and nothing there if someone missed it but it's kinda hard to see.
But that would be a connector with something unplugged and you would have no temp reading.
Exelente información gracias
Thank you
Part number ?
@@jaybandz2026 I can't find the part number.
But I rember I bought it at O'Reilly and I believe it was a standard brand product with a tx in the part number.
I recommend motorcraft from the dealership but the standard brand fits.
@@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf okay bro because I bought one and it’s almost the same but one of the insert lines is on the opposite side.
@@jaybandz2026 Yea the standard tx one does not have the lines on it so it fits without having to deal with that.
I bought a motorcraft one with a line on the opposite side of Amazon and returned it.
I don't know if they make the whole harness to the sensor thing with different side lines or like if you could file the line off and so it fit the connector.
But I bought the one from O'Reillys and it didn't have the line in the rectangle part.
@@jaybandz2026 part number is TX91 found the receipt for it when I was cleaning my car today :)
Hope this helps.
It sounds like you were mumbling when you made this video! And you didn't do a very good job with the camera either!
But now you know how to remove the sensor thanks to a man with a learning disability.
I appreciate you Stealthy.