Hey Landen, thank you for the video. I did the hard part of installing the new phaser with my dad holding the vice grip and the chain. He likes working on cars but he thought I was insane for messing with anything near the timing chain. I was comfortable the whole time because of this video. :) A couple of notes/ extra steps to help. First, put the transmission in gear so it holds the crankshaft in place, then you don't have to worry about play while you are torqueing stuff down. Also, as extra insurance, I marked the camshaft lobes themselves with a paint pen and marked a few corresponding areas of the engine so that I would know if the camshaft shifted any while we were holding it with the vice. This was a super easy job, thanks for the video.
Good video but I want to add you should always replace the cam phaser solenoids with the revised version from Motorcraft when replacing your cam phasers. The solenoid is what allows oil to flow and operate the system and is one of the main causes of failure by way of becoming clogged and starving the phaser system of oil. The original design had very small oil passage ways which become clogged with ease, and the new design remedies this problem. If you absolutely cannot afford to replace the solenoids (about $70-75 each times 2) then at a minimum remove them when you change your phasers and clean them with electronic spray or Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner spray. Take a small pick and clear the oil passage ways of any gunk/buildup then dry with a clean towel that doesn't leave fibers behind. This will help your new phasers last. Also, make sure to change your oil and filter every 3500-4000 miles with Motorcraft or other premium 5w20 and a Motorcraft FL820S filter. (Fram is junk, if not MC use Bosch, Wix, Napa Gold, Mobil 1 etc., Fram only makes one good filter these days and that is their synthetic and at $10-14 it is still only as good as a $5-6 Bosch or Napa with Filtech media inside) Don't use heavier oil either, if you want to use 5w30 or 10w30 on your 3V Mustang, get some Phaser lockouts and disable the system. It needs 20w oil to operate properly over the long term. Thicker oil will get you right back to needing to replace them again.
Thank You for the video. Did both cam phasers today on a 2010 F150 with the 4.6L. Just a tip, buy Ford OEM cam phasers, as they have went through changes over the years.
I followed this guide step by step and I did the job in a few hours, but I just changed the just the drivers side side, is the same thing for the passenger side ? And thanks a lot for this tutorial/guide!!
“Trouble” One involves just the valve cover. The other involves ac compressor, alternator, belt, belt tensioner, pullies, crankshaft pulley etc. and then everything else behind the timing cover, blah blah. You’re not going through the trouble unless you do that all.
If you have one of these where the previous owner didn't keep track of maintenance and went way past the scheduled oil change a bad Cam Phaser will be the least of your worries. These 3V engines usually get restricted oil passages and can get pretty sludged up inside.
TBird100636 It gets pretty annoying that most people don't change their oil as required. Out of 5 engines I've tore apart, my most recent 351w was the only one with signs of proper oil changes. My buddy has a 4.6 in a grand marques and that thing has almost 300k because he properly maintained it but never had an issue with cam phaser. More issues with coil packs but those would usually last 150-200k miles so no real big concern.
a friend replaced these on my sons 2005 mustang. didnt finish...we put harmonic balancer.....dont know what all they did. but now it turns over but does not start. hope engine is not damaged now. any suggestions
hey! this video and the one on hiw to install the cam shafts made this project so much easier for me! But on replacing the cam phaser, does the orientation of the phaser matter? do the little "arms" or points sticking off of it have to be in a certain direction? And also, do the phasers have driver side passenger side only preference? or does each phaser work the same on either side? THANKS!
+Branden Gooch Thanks for the feedback, Branden! Yes, the cam phasers do have a "left" and "right" reference on them. Look for either an "L" or "R" on the gear itself to know what tooth needs to be aligned with the darker link on the timing chain. -Landan
I keep getting a P0025 code for camshaft position timing over retarded, rough idle, ticking noise, knocking and hesitation. I've changed my VCT solenoid. When I unplug either Tank A or B VCT solenoid sensor the car runs fine with the exception of bad gas mileage. Any suggestions?
I need help... I bought a 2006 Mustang GT 4.6L 3v and the kid took the timing chains, phasers and cams out of the engine. I do not think he set the timing marks before doing this and only installed one cam back in while the other still needs to be tightened down. I have to install new lash adjusters and rockers so my qu is how do I get the timing set right without screwing anything up and still be able to set the cams on in the correct location?
@@latemodelrestoration thanks man. I called them, but their instruction PDF is not available for this application so I guess I am going to have to find TDC with the crank first then the cams should fall in line once I have that lined up correctly. Sucks trying to do a repair after someone has worked on it with no knowledge of what they are doing. Good news is a got a 2006 GT with a 54k mile engine in it for $1,500 that pretty much needs the front bumper assembly, rear aftermarket lower control arms and the timing kit, cans, lifters (lash adjusters) and rocker arms installed then fixing any minor issues here and there and I'll have a very solid car already fitted with some very nice mods like SR one piece driveshaft, BBK long tube headers with BBK x-pipe and BBK axle backs, full k-member, etc... 😁
I know this video is super old, but my cam phaser bolt will not break loose, I lift heavy and this bolt is kicking my ass. Any ideas of what would be safe to use to break it? Also my cam phasers on the car don’t have the “R” instead just an L and a | mark. I also turned the engine counter clockwise probably twice, what’s the chances the chain jumped a tooth? Did see some slack in the chain at certain times but tightened back up.
Question. Most all videos I've seen doing this hand turns the engine off the harmonic balancer with a clock wise direction is there a specific reason why you go counter clockwise?
@@latemodelrestoration Always turn clockwise. If you have a weak or failed tensioner the chain can jump a tooth if you turn the crank counterclockwise.
The phaser(s) will have a "deep knock" at hot idle which will be more evident with a mechanic's stethoscope , placed on the valve cover directly above the phaser. Be sure to check both banks (LH & RH valve cover). Unfortunately , lash adjuster wear will only be noticeable upon removal of rocker arm(s).
Unplug the cam phaser solenoids and then go for a drive. If the noise stops and car feels smoother at idle and low rpm cruise then your phasers are bad or going bad. If no difference is felt after unplugging your phasers are not the problem. Har your code reader or flash tuner handheld ready when doing this test though as check engine lights will occur after a short period.
thank you. I dont know why I didnt get a noticed that someone replied...but thank you. I'm actually going to try to fix car once again...very soon Parent passed away and now care giver for another relative part time so no time to work on car...but Thank you
brandon short NO!!!! the dorman brand was one of the worst and would fail prematurely. cam phasers are an established problem or defect on the 3v engines.
Juan, have you had any experience with the Dorman replacements? I've installed 8 of them in 4 different engines and have yet to have an issue. One engine was my brother's F-150 and since the install of the Dorman phasers, he has put 40+ thousand miles on the truck without any issues. -Landan
I know this isnt related to cam phasers but on my Dodge Cummins I used all Dorman products for the cooler lines and transcooler itself, all leaked..got replacements...they leaked. Eventually bought OEM Mopar and it worked first try. In my experience Dorman products are pretty worthless.
Don't even think of using a Dorman phaser. Worst Chinese garbage out there. Unless you want to do the job again, only use OEM Motorcraft for this part, the guides and the chains.
Hey Landen, thank you for the video. I did the hard part of installing the new phaser with my dad holding the vice grip and the chain. He likes working on cars but he thought I was insane for messing with anything near the timing chain. I was comfortable the whole time because of this video. :)
A couple of notes/ extra steps to help. First, put the transmission in gear so it holds the crankshaft in place, then you don't have to worry about play while you are torqueing stuff down. Also, as extra insurance, I marked the camshaft lobes themselves with a paint pen and marked a few corresponding areas of the engine so that I would know if the camshaft shifted any while we were holding it with the vice. This was a super easy job, thanks for the video.
Good video but I want to add you should always replace the cam phaser solenoids with the revised version from Motorcraft when replacing your cam phasers. The solenoid is what allows oil to flow and operate the system and is one of the main causes of failure by way of becoming clogged and starving the phaser system of oil. The original design had very small oil passage ways which become clogged with ease, and the new design remedies this problem. If you absolutely cannot afford to replace the solenoids (about $70-75 each times 2) then at a minimum remove them when you change your phasers and clean them with electronic spray or Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner spray. Take a small pick and clear the oil passage ways of any gunk/buildup then dry with a clean towel that doesn't leave fibers behind. This will help your new phasers last. Also, make sure to change your oil and filter every 3500-4000 miles with Motorcraft or other premium 5w20 and a Motorcraft FL820S filter. (Fram is junk, if not MC use Bosch, Wix, Napa Gold, Mobil 1 etc., Fram only makes one good filter these days and that is their synthetic and at $10-14 it is still only as good as a $5-6 Bosch or Napa with Filtech media inside) Don't use heavier oil either, if you want to use 5w30 or 10w30 on your 3V Mustang, get some Phaser lockouts and disable the system. It needs 20w oil to operate properly over the long term. Thicker oil will get you right back to needing to replace them again.
Thank You for the video. Did both cam phasers today on a 2010 F150 with the 4.6L. Just a tip, buy Ford OEM cam phasers, as they have went through changes over the years.
I followed this guide step by step and I did the job in a few hours, but I just changed the just the drivers side side, is the same thing for the passenger side ? And thanks a lot for this tutorial/guide!!
You ever findout if it was the exact same for the passenger?
@@AnimalCentral6 Yes sir, exactly the same process for both sides !
@@christianbawman3935 Thankyou very much I start the job tomorrow lol
@@AnimalCentral6how’d it go?
If your going through the trouble of replacing cam phasers, you might as well remove the front cover and replace tensioners, guides and chains.
“Trouble”
One involves just the valve cover.
The other involves ac compressor, alternator, belt, belt tensioner, pullies, crankshaft pulley etc. and then everything else behind the timing cover, blah blah. You’re not going through the trouble unless you do that all.
@maxiomaxiom6169 It's not as bad as it looks once the fan and shroud are removed.
@@maxiomaxiom6169 all of which is not hard whatsoever
If you have one of these where the previous owner didn't keep track of maintenance and went way past the scheduled oil change a bad Cam Phaser will be the least of your worries. These 3V engines usually get restricted oil passages and can get pretty sludged up inside.
TBird100636 It gets pretty annoying that most people don't change their oil as required. Out of 5 engines I've tore apart, my most recent 351w was the only one with signs of proper oil changes. My buddy has a 4.6 in a grand marques and that thing has almost 300k because he properly maintained it but never had an issue with cam phaser. More issues with coil packs but those would usually last 150-200k miles so no real big concern.
Nate Karg marquis have the old 4.6 with 2valve in it that dont have cam phasers ,these mustangs have the 4.6 3valve engines
Does this technique work the same for the passenger side as far as having the crankshaft mark at the 1oclock position
a friend replaced these on my sons 2005 mustang. didnt finish...we put harmonic balancer.....dont know what all they did. but now it turns over but does not start. hope engine is not damaged now. any suggestions
Um... Why did u rotate the engine counter clockwise?
hey! this video and the one on hiw to install the cam shafts made this project so much easier for me! But on replacing the cam phaser, does the orientation of the phaser matter? do the little "arms" or points sticking off of it have to be in a certain direction? And also, do the phasers have driver side passenger side only preference? or does each phaser work the same on either side? THANKS!
+Branden Gooch Thanks for the feedback, Branden! Yes, the cam phasers do have a "left" and "right" reference on them. Look for either an "L" or "R" on the gear itself to know what tooth needs to be aligned with the darker link on the timing chain. -Landan
I keep getting a P0025 code for camshaft position timing over retarded, rough idle, ticking noise, knocking and hesitation. I've changed my VCT solenoid. When I unplug either Tank A or B VCT solenoid sensor the car runs fine with the exception of bad gas mileage. Any suggestions?
Ever find the issue?
@@dakotas3vandxj506have your ever found issue?
I need help... I bought a 2006 Mustang GT 4.6L 3v and the kid took the timing chains, phasers and cams out of the engine. I do not think he set the timing marks before doing this and only installed one cam back in while the other still needs to be tightened down. I have to install new lash adjusters and rockers so my qu is how do I get the timing set right without screwing anything up and still be able to set the cams on in the correct location?
The best thing for this would be to contact the Ford Performance tech line to further assist you. Their number is 1-800-367-3788.
@@latemodelrestoration thanks
@@latemodelrestoration thanks man. I called them, but their instruction PDF is not available for this application so I guess I am going to have to find TDC with the crank first then the cams should fall in line once I have that lined up correctly. Sucks trying to do a repair after someone has worked on it with no knowledge of what they are doing. Good news is a got a 2006 GT with a 54k mile engine in it for $1,500 that pretty much needs the front bumper assembly, rear aftermarket lower control arms and the timing kit, cans, lifters (lash adjusters) and rocker arms installed then fixing any minor issues here and there and I'll have a very solid car already fitted with some very nice mods like SR one piece driveshaft, BBK long tube headers with BBK x-pipe and BBK axle backs, full k-member, etc... 😁
Thanks for the info. Thought my shit was broke.
Did you ever get the phasers fixed?
I know this video is super old, but my cam phaser bolt will not break loose, I lift heavy and this bolt is kicking my ass. Any ideas of what would be safe to use to break it? Also my cam phasers on the car don’t have the “R” instead just an L and a | mark. I also turned the engine counter clockwise probably twice, what’s the chances the chain jumped a tooth? Did see some slack in the chain at certain times but tightened back up.
did you ever get it fixed what happend??
Will this wedge tool work on 97 mustang gt 2 valve???
If you dont change this it will break apart and tear everything thats inside...
0:45 guilty 🙋♂️ what can I say I’ve been deprived of muscle cars all my life till now only had a 2.3 mustang foxbody
Question. Most all videos I've seen doing this hand turns the engine off the harmonic balancer with a clock wise direction is there a specific reason why you go counter clockwise?
Hey there,
Clockwise is technically the accurate way to turn it. However, either way will work when turning the harmonic balancer.
@@latemodelrestoration Always turn clockwise. If you have a weak or failed tensioner the chain can jump a tooth if you turn the crank counterclockwise.
Aight well here I go gonna try n tackle this on my neighbors car seems simple good video for reference if needed
Thanks g
is there way to decipher if its cam phaser or lash lifters? Its mainly ticking and mainly at idle and no idiots lights
anyone got any ideas ...trying to figure out if its cam phasers or lash lifters making noise without taking it apart first? anyone?
The phaser(s) will have a "deep knock" at hot idle which will be more evident with a mechanic's stethoscope , placed on the valve cover directly above the phaser. Be sure to check both banks (LH & RH valve cover). Unfortunately , lash adjuster wear will only be noticeable upon removal of rocker arm(s).
Unplug the cam phaser solenoids and then go for a drive. If the noise stops and car feels smoother at idle and low rpm cruise then your phasers are bad or going bad. If no difference is felt after unplugging your phasers are not the problem. Har your code reader or flash tuner handheld ready when doing this test though as check engine lights will occur after a short period.
thank you. I dont know why I didnt get a noticed that someone replied...but thank you. I'm actually going to try to fix car once again...very soon Parent passed away and now care giver for another relative part time so no time to work on car...but Thank you
The fuel injectors make a ticking sound as well
Better off just locking the cams completely
is this cam phaser reliable?
brandon short NO!!!! the dorman brand was one of the worst and would fail prematurely. cam phasers are an established problem or defect on the 3v engines.
Juan, have you had any experience with the Dorman replacements? I've installed 8 of them in 4 different engines and have yet to have an issue. One engine was my brother's F-150 and since the install of the Dorman phasers, he has put 40+ thousand miles on the truck without any issues. -Landan
I know this isnt related to cam phasers but on my Dodge Cummins I used all Dorman products for the cooler lines and transcooler itself, all leaked..got replacements...they leaked. Eventually bought OEM Mopar and it worked first try. In my experience Dorman products are pretty worthless.
Don't even think of using a Dorman phaser. Worst Chinese garbage out there. Unless you want to do the job again, only use OEM Motorcraft for this part, the guides and the chains.