Hi michael! Nice video☺️!! was this the same engine that was rebuilt due to the burnt valve? Do you know what was the cylinder head surface distortion before that it was resurfaced? On hynes and cymler there is no a spec value on cyl head distortion...
Thank you ! Yes,good memory ! I just know the surfacing was minimal,i have no value either....wich is quite weird. the machine shop owner ,wich did the job,told me he removed the minimum,and since he is very serious i have no searched more,i should have. the compression ratio is 11 to 1 wich is quite big. If you remove a "big" amount of material from the head during the surfacing,i suggest you to install a thicker head gasket or to remove a bit of material in the combustion chambers to avoid pinging.
Hey you got the timing spot on with one adjustment :-D, normally it can a few trys to get it close. Im supprised how crap that timing plate is, i expected a notch so you could insert a screwdriver into it, then you could adjust while the engine is running, like contact breaker points. That engine sounds very tight, perhaps the timing chain tensioner has to bed in a little, or thats just the way they sound :-). So once the engine has settled down, i expect warp 9 now lol :-D.
Its an acheavement (long word lol), just keep an eye on the oil level and sparkplug colours, its a fair indication of each pot being the same :-). Should never need to be touched again, nice reliable machine :-D
The whining noise is just the counter balance shaft straight teeth cut gear. The timing belt tensionner is automatic,the pressure is normal and can't be modified.
Super Nice video!!! I have a K1100RS completely out of the timing and I am starting to desperate... I’ve seen that you put the gun 6 degrees in advance “as the book” says - what book? Where can I find that info for the k1100rs? I would be very thankful if you could help me here.
Thanks, You have several books or shop manuals avaible. www.tmbbooks.com/fr/motm_BMWrep04.html bmw.k100rs.free.fr/files/repair_manuals/BMW_K1100LT_K1100RS_FR.pdf www.dropbox.com/s/4q62ch4jfeadpjd/K1100RS%20Manual%20taller.pdf?dl=0 Easy to find on google,for free,or not : )
michaelovitch does your Manual has any info about the timing for the k1100? (About the degrees to advance or to configure the gun) Thank you in advance
You really suck at google man lol or you are really lazy. 2 links for you : www.google.fr/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_frFR797FR797&ei=ns-3W5H7OuaUlwT8gJaoBw&q=k1100rs+manual&oq=k1100rs+m&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i22i30k1l5j0i22i10i30k1j0i22i30k1l4.2204.9222.0.11566.18.17.1.0.0.0.162.1890.4j13.17.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.16.1646...0j33i22i29i30k1j33i21k1j33i160k1j0i19k1j0i22i30i19k1j0i30k1.0.CvpS9ACaCSg www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/K1100LT_RS_Repair.pdf Page 89
If you want to have the spark igniting gas at the correct time to get good combustion,so power ,you need to get it accurately tuned. Having a the marks lined so well assure you that the spark is happening when supposed to. If not lined properly the spak will occur at the incorrect time,and the engine will not run as well. They are marks allowing you to get mechanical parts and electric event ,like spark,to be well synchronized.
my bike is running like yours in the beginning , but was running ok at the next day running bad exactly like your in the video , this might be the problem also the timing and why it moved i do not even ride this bike ??? thx a lot
@@michaelovitch basically the same but i am thinking that also can be something related with gasoline , yesterday i received gasoline strong smell , i removed the tank and around where the floater is this heat cover was wet of gasoline but i do not noticed any leaks and the bike feels also like has a lot gas on the injectors , i am trying to test the temperature switch relay but i do not know how , i tested the fuel pump relay , and this one is working but the other one i do not know how !!! at this point i do not know what the motorcycle has ??!! any ideas are welcome !!! thanks a lot in advance !!!!
@@alexgamboa5466 There is a fuel pressure regulator on the left side of the bike. It may be damaged,its diaphragm can be torn and fuel can leak,so pressure is no rgulated anymore and it's running too rich. Pressure is reduced at idle thanks to a high engine intake vacuum wich is pulling a side of the diaphragm. They can be damaged by ethanol in the gas. You can pinch and unpinch the regulator vacuum line and hear or not a difference in the engine sound. If not,the pressure regulator is not doing its job. The best would be to dsconnect it and plug its vacuum line otherwise you create a vacuum leak and make your diagnostic more difficult.
@@michaelovitch thanks a lot for your help , i will try this ,and will see , if nothing happens i will write to you again to see if you have more ideas , thanks again !!!!
I'm 1.94 M and 135 kgs. (white t shirt) The bike is pretty ok for me,i'm well sat on it. My brother with the shirt is 1.90 m and comfortable on it. Yes the bike is enough for your size,it's quite perfect. Check that : cycle-ergo.com/
Do you know how to fix the startup idle? Mine dies during warm up even with choke on, i have to manually hold the throttle at 1500 so it wont turn off :/
Idle mixture can't be adjusted. The choke is not a choke,it only moves the throttle plates to increase idle speed. It's exactly if you used the throttle. If the bike can't keep a steady idle,that mean the air/fuel mixture is not good. You certainly have a vacuum leak. Check if the pcv hose is not cracked,it's common. Normally a well tuned bike with all hoses seals,intake boots in good condition must stall when you open the oil fill up plug. It's a very sensitive,well tuned engine.
@@michaelovitch Hey - I just stumbled on this video and your comment has just saved me a lot of aggro. I fixed up an old - school engne breather with the connection on the plenum blanked off- and my engine would run for a while then stall.
Hi, Be sure to have no leak on the intake boots,cranckcase recirculation gases hose,and all seals on the intake from the vane meter. Same for all seals on the engine itself,a simple leaking seal on the oil cap can mess up the air fuel ratio and make it stumble. Then you can adjust the idle air screw on the vane meter,wich allows more or less air passing by. It's quite important to adjust it when it's an average temperaure outside,otherwise you can lean out/enrichen too much the idle. I did that in winter,and it's not a good idea when it's hotter,it becomes too rich at idle,and make it stumble a bit. Be sure to chase all air leaks,then to have a good throttle bodies synchronization.(don't touch the linkage,it's ealed,touch the air screws only on the throttle bodies) Be sure to have clean ports and clean screws on those) no injectors seals leaks etc... After acceleration the mixture lean out ,so you can hear pops in the exhaust,often it's some air entering the exhaust,or a lean mixture,or bad valve adjustement. All new bikes have this noise,the mixture is really too lean,for emission purposes. The k75 shouldn't when in good shape.
@@michaelovitch i clean all intake system, synchronized all throttle bodies(yeah i know my bad, but i must do it, after cleaning) and i red that it’s shouldn’t be touching after that. I had 1 bad hose which goes in engine from throttle bodies at right side. I guess i should check engine (oil rings) and adjust valves.
@@mruniverse5704 Yes,check valves gap. The little hose from the throttle body to the right side is the fuel pressure regulator hose. It will reduce fuel at low rpm (high vacuum) and allow more fuel at low vacuum (high rpm) If the fuel pressure regulator hose is damaged,it will send too much fuel,and create a vacuum leak at the same time. Th ediaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can be leaky too,so fuel can go directly through thje little hose. You can test it by removing the little hose and pinching it while plgging the throtthle body nipple. You can also plug a medical seringe or a vacuum pump to the hose and voluntarily create and reduce vacuum so you can check the fuel pressure regulator. You should hear a big difference on the idle quality with and without fuel pressure regulator assistance or not.
It can be a lot of things. Check if the spark plugs are in good shape,the valve gap,fuel filter, no cracks in any of the intake hoses or boots,including the o ring on the oil cap and the breather little hose from the intake plenum to the engine. Any air leak will affect engine performances and running condition on this type of injection system.
@@michaelovitch she got full Service oil, filters,plugs,z hose coolant sensor checked…?!the thing is once she starts pulls like a train?!just cold start causing problem?! I have to check the ecu and maf sensor?! Thank you for your reply and advice
@@ANDRASz38 Cold start and its idle is a sequence where valve adjustment,fuel adjustment,and spark timing play a big role.(the ecu does not correct anything if you have air leaks or fuel problems,it's just a open loop fuel map) Did it run ok prior the service ? Is it a constant problem with warm weather and cold weather ? You can check the coolant sensor value at the ecu plug,once you unplugged it,to see if it's giving the ecu a correct value. The cold start enrichment is based on that. Like i said,only hoses or boots from the airflow meter to the engine head can cause problems if they are cracked,and the blowby recirculation hose too,like the oring on the oil cap.
@@ANDRASz38 check all intake hoses and boots first,it's often overlooked,particularly since it can be a tiny crack or split wich is not even visible without a close inspection. You can try to spray brake cleaner on all the intake system while it's running,you could hear idle variation. Watch out to not burn the bike,the exhasut is just under.
Common sense is something we have in varying quantities, it takes 20 seconds to stop the engine, adjust the timing, bolt it up again, then test it again, why would anyone in their right minds consider doing this with the engine running, beats me......but...your bike, do whatever you like......
It's the grille wich is on the RT body panel in front of the radiator. You can simply buy a piece of grille in a hardware store and do the same if you don't have a rt body : )
I get it from the manual,but whatever you have a manual or not,the engine management electronic board will create a 6°of ignition advance at idle and increase it to 23° at full throttle on this bike. So it will send the electric signal to the coil wich will create a high voltage load to the sparkplug wire. This signal is picked up by the clamp on the stroboscope gun. knowing that,you just tune the gun's knob on 6°and the strobe should illluminate and be synchronized with the mark on the cranckshaft. if not you rotate the ignition pick up signal wheel untill they are synchronized. you have the 6° of advance. manufacturers always give you a reference for ignition tuning whatever the machine,wich is a value in degrees of advance ,and a reference on rotating parts like the flywheel or cranckshaft.
My favorite TH-camr! Excellent video. Congratulations on the bike. Hope it lasts forever.
Thank you very much !
I hope too....
Lo dije antes que eres MUY BUENO ,,,,, pero esta moto para mi es un COÑAZO.........Tengo 2.......
Do you have problems with those bikes ?
Great video! Thought me a bit on engine troubleshooting:)
Thanks for taking the time to upload all those videos!
Thank you : )
I'm happy to read that !
Sympa !! J'ai encore appris un truc avec tes videos :)
Merci !
ça va c'est pas trop barbant ?
Felicitaciones ! Gran trabajo !
Muchas gracias !
Hi michael! Nice video☺️!!
was this the same engine that was rebuilt due to the burnt valve? Do you know what was the cylinder head surface distortion before that it was resurfaced? On hynes and cymler there is no a spec value on cyl head distortion...
Thank you !
Yes,good memory !
I just know the surfacing was minimal,i have no value either....wich is quite weird.
the machine shop owner ,wich did the job,told me he removed the minimum,and since he is very serious i have no searched more,i should have.
the compression ratio is 11 to 1 wich is quite big.
If you remove a "big" amount of material from the head during the surfacing,i suggest you to install a thicker head gasket or to remove a bit of material in the combustion chambers to avoid pinging.
Nice ! I have the same bike, ditch the clutch-switch(join the two wires) they destroy starter-relays and other EXPENSIVE things David NZ
OK,
What happened to your bike with that problem ?
Hey you got the timing spot on with one adjustment :-D, normally it can a few trys to get it close. Im supprised how crap that timing plate is, i expected a notch so you could insert a screwdriver into it, then you could adjust while the engine is running, like contact breaker points. That engine sounds very tight, perhaps the timing chain tensioner has to bed in a little, or thats just the way they sound :-). So once the engine has settled down, i expect warp 9 now lol :-D.
Yes,the plate is really thin and weird...
I had to search for warp 9 lol it should be not bad lol
Ok warp 8 will do :-D
warp 1 or 2 should be enough for me and this grandma lol
i was really impressed here already...
Its an acheavement (long word lol), just keep an eye on the oil level and sparkplug colours, its a fair indication of each pot being the same :-). Should never need to be touched again, nice reliable machine :-D
I just have to check the throttle bodies assembly and maybe fine tune it.
Otherwise it's like you say,nice reliable machine : )
sounds like turbocharger but actually its your tensioner dont make it push too hard so you can hear your engine sound softly ...
The whining noise is just the counter balance shaft straight teeth cut gear.
The timing belt tensionner is automatic,the pressure is normal and can't be modified.
Super Nice video!!!
I have a K1100RS completely out of the timing and I am starting to desperate...
I’ve seen that you put the gun 6 degrees in advance “as the book” says - what book? Where can I find that info for the k1100rs?
I would be very thankful if you could help me here.
Thanks,
You have several books or shop manuals avaible.
www.tmbbooks.com/fr/motm_BMWrep04.html
bmw.k100rs.free.fr/files/repair_manuals/BMW_K1100LT_K1100RS_FR.pdf
www.dropbox.com/s/4q62ch4jfeadpjd/K1100RS%20Manual%20taller.pdf?dl=0
Easy to find on google,for free,or not : )
michaelovitch does your Manual has any info about the timing for the k1100? (About the degrees to advance or to configure the gun)
Thank you in advance
Did you even take a look at the links i gave you ?
michaelovitch I did yes and I’ve seen Manuals in French which I don’t understand nothing :(
You really suck at google man lol or you are really lazy.
2 links for you :
www.google.fr/search?rlz=1C1CHBF_frFR797FR797&ei=ns-3W5H7OuaUlwT8gJaoBw&q=k1100rs+manual&oq=k1100rs+m&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i22i30k1l5j0i22i10i30k1j0i22i30k1l4.2204.9222.0.11566.18.17.1.0.0.0.162.1890.4j13.17.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.16.1646...0j33i22i29i30k1j33i21k1j33i160k1j0i19k1j0i22i30i19k1j0i30k1.0.CvpS9ACaCSg
www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/K1100LT_RS_Repair.pdf
Page 89
Why does it have to be a line so perfectly for?
If you want to have the spark igniting gas at the correct time to get good combustion,so power ,you need to get it accurately tuned.
Having a the marks lined so well assure you that the spark is happening when supposed to.
If not lined properly the spak will occur at the incorrect time,and the engine will not run as well.
They are marks allowing you to get mechanical parts and electric event ,like spark,to be well synchronized.
my bike is running like yours in the beginning , but was running ok at the next day running bad exactly like your in the video , this might be the problem also the timing and why it moved i do not even ride this bike ??? thx a lot
This bike do not adapt its tunes at all if parameters go out of very limited range of specs.
what is your bike doing ?
@@michaelovitch basically the same but i am thinking that also can be something related with gasoline , yesterday i received gasoline strong smell , i removed the tank and around where the floater is this heat cover was wet of gasoline but i do not noticed any leaks and the bike feels also like has a lot gas on the injectors , i am trying to test the temperature switch relay but i do not know how , i tested the fuel pump relay , and this one is working but the other one i do not know how !!! at this point i do not know what the motorcycle has ??!! any ideas are welcome !!! thanks a lot in advance !!!!
@@alexgamboa5466 There is a fuel pressure regulator on the left side of the bike.
It may be damaged,its diaphragm can be torn and fuel can leak,so pressure is no rgulated anymore and it's running too rich.
Pressure is reduced at idle thanks to a high engine intake vacuum wich is pulling a side of the diaphragm.
They can be damaged by ethanol in the gas.
You can pinch and unpinch the regulator vacuum line and hear or not a difference in the engine sound.
If not,the pressure regulator is not doing its job.
The best would be to dsconnect it and plug its vacuum line otherwise you create a vacuum leak and make your diagnostic more difficult.
@@michaelovitch thanks a lot for your help , i will try this ,and will see , if nothing happens i will write to you again to see if you have more ideas , thanks again !!!!
@@alexgamboa5466 ok
How big are you? Motor appears low.‘..im 187 cm...is k75 high enough?
I'm 1.94 M and 135 kgs. (white t shirt)
The bike is pretty ok for me,i'm well sat on it.
My brother with the shirt is 1.90 m and comfortable on it.
Yes the bike is enough for your size,it's quite perfect.
Check that : cycle-ergo.com/
Do you know how to fix the startup idle? Mine dies during warm up even with choke on, i have to manually hold the throttle at 1500 so it wont turn off :/
Idle mixture can't be adjusted.
The choke is not a choke,it only moves the throttle plates to increase idle speed.
It's exactly if you used the throttle.
If the bike can't keep a steady idle,that mean the air/fuel mixture is not good.
You certainly have a vacuum leak.
Check if the pcv hose is not cracked,it's common.
Normally a well tuned bike with all hoses seals,intake boots in good condition must stall when you open the oil fill up plug.
It's a very sensitive,well tuned engine.
@@michaelovitch Hey - I just stumbled on this video and your comment has just saved me a lot of aggro. I fixed up an old - school engne breather with the connection on the plenum blanked off- and my engine would run for a while then stall.
@@bryanearthloop2403 : )
Hi there. When u first run i heard how your bike blasts at the idle rpm. Is it ok? Coz i had the same blasts after acceleration
Hi,
Be sure to have no leak on the intake boots,cranckcase recirculation gases hose,and all seals on the intake from the vane meter.
Same for all seals on the engine itself,a simple leaking seal on the oil cap can mess up the air fuel ratio and make it stumble.
Then you can adjust the idle air screw on the vane meter,wich allows more or less air passing by.
It's quite important to adjust it when it's an average temperaure outside,otherwise you can lean out/enrichen too much the idle.
I did that in winter,and it's not a good idea when it's hotter,it becomes too rich at idle,and make it stumble a bit.
Be sure to chase all air leaks,then to have a good throttle bodies synchronization.(don't touch the linkage,it's ealed,touch the air screws only on the throttle bodies)
Be sure to have clean ports and clean screws on those)
no injectors seals leaks etc...
After acceleration the mixture lean out ,so you can hear pops in the exhaust,often it's some air entering the exhaust,or a lean mixture,or bad valve adjustement.
All new bikes have this noise,the mixture is really too lean,for emission purposes.
The k75 shouldn't when in good shape.
@@michaelovitch i clean all intake system, synchronized all throttle bodies(yeah i know my bad, but i must do it, after cleaning) and i red that it’s shouldn’t be touching after that. I had 1 bad hose which goes in engine from throttle bodies at right side. I guess i should check engine (oil rings) and adjust valves.
@@mruniverse5704
Yes,check valves gap.
The little hose from the throttle body to the right side is the fuel pressure regulator hose.
It will reduce fuel at low rpm (high vacuum) and allow more fuel at low vacuum (high rpm)
If the fuel pressure regulator hose is damaged,it will send too much fuel,and create a vacuum leak at the same time.
Th ediaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can be leaky too,so fuel can go directly through thje little hose.
You can test it by removing the little hose and pinching it while plgging the throtthle body nipple.
You can also plug a medical seringe or a vacuum pump to the hose and voluntarily create and reduce vacuum so you can check the fuel pressure regulator.
You should hear a big difference on the idle quality with and without fuel pressure regulator assistance or not.
@@michaelovitch Thank You! I `ll do it winter
Hi
Any advice rough cold start bmw K100rt?once she starts runs okay!
It can be a lot of things.
Check if the spark plugs are in good shape,the valve gap,fuel filter,
no cracks in any of the intake hoses or boots,including the o ring on the oil cap and the breather little hose from the intake plenum to the engine.
Any air leak will affect engine performances and running condition on this type of injection system.
@@michaelovitch she got full Service oil, filters,plugs,z hose coolant sensor checked…?!the thing is once she starts pulls like a train?!just cold start causing problem?! I have to check the ecu and maf sensor?!
Thank you for your reply and advice
@@ANDRASz38
Cold start and its idle is a sequence where valve adjustment,fuel adjustment,and spark timing play a big role.(the ecu does not correct anything if you have air leaks or fuel problems,it's just a open loop fuel map)
Did it run ok prior the service ?
Is it a constant problem with warm weather and cold weather ?
You can check the coolant sensor value at the ecu plug,once you unplugged it,to see if it's giving the ecu a correct value.
The cold start enrichment is based on that.
Like i said,only hoses or boots from the airflow meter to the engine head can cause problems if they are cracked,and the blowby recirculation hose too,like the oring on the oil cap.
@@michaelovitch thank you I gonna start measuring the pins on the ecu and checking the fuel system and valves😉
@@ANDRASz38
check all intake hoses and boots first,it's often overlooked,particularly since it can be a tiny crack or split wich is not even visible without a close inspection.
You can try to spray brake cleaner on all the intake system while it's running,you could hear idle variation.
Watch out to not burn the bike,the exhasut is just under.
cant you adjust it while running engine thats how we did it on cars?
Good question.
I think it can be done,i've no seen interdiction in the manual about it.
Forget that idea....
+ROY Dean please tell me wy
you know something ?
Common sense is something we have in varying quantities, it takes 20 seconds to stop the engine, adjust the timing, bolt it up again, then test it again, why would anyone in their right minds consider doing this with the engine running, beats me......but...your bike, do whatever you like......
Where did you get the radiator guard?
It's the grille wich is on the RT body panel in front of the radiator.
You can simply buy a piece of grille in a hardware store and do the same if you don't have a rt body : )
how did you figure on 6 degrees of advance timing?
On the strobe or on the bike ?
on the bike
I mean the 6 degrees...is that just a guess? or did you get that from the manual?
I get it from the manual,but whatever you have a manual or not,the engine management electronic board will create a 6°of ignition advance at idle and increase it to 23° at full throttle on this bike.
So it will send the electric signal to the coil wich will create a high voltage load to the sparkplug wire.
This signal is picked up by the clamp on the stroboscope gun.
knowing that,you just tune the gun's knob on 6°and the strobe should illluminate and be synchronized with the mark on the cranckshaft.
if not you rotate the ignition pick up signal wheel untill they are synchronized.
you have the 6° of advance.
manufacturers always give you a reference for ignition tuning whatever the machine,wich is a value in degrees of advance ,and a reference on rotating parts like the flywheel or cranckshaft.
GOOD
Thank you : )
Nice....
: )
Thanks !