I have seen knife sharpeners doing all of that by hand, without those guide rods on a buffer using cardboard grinder wheels for the final "strop". That was of course 40 some years ago but their blades were sharp as ever.
200 grit wheel is a game changer. Along with a 1200 grit edges are amazing. Did a kitchen knife for my wife, all I can say is "sharp knife, happy wife".
Great video! I've sharpened for a couple decades, mostly on stones but also on belts. I really do think I'll have to get a least one Tormek and maybe a WEN. I think it's going to be about the fastest way to get a good edge. Water stones are enjoyable but it takes me more like fifteen minutes if I do it all by hand.
I have watched alot of videos on your page already and i am really thankfull for you being so passionate about sharing your craft! Can you elaborate why you pull the handle towards you when sharpening the tip of the knife vs how tormek teaches it and only move the handle up? I just bought a t8 and im practicing and this confuses me. Thanks again and greating from the Netherlands, Steven
SG as in the standard stone it comes with? It depends a little bit on the heat treat but generally its going to work, just take longer. I will say I notice in mine that above 63 hrc the stone wheel does produce an apex but the sharpness feels a bit wrong, I was told by a knife maker working with these steels that its because the carbides arent cut at the same rate as the steel matrix, basically rounding them over like pebbles in cement. Generally speaking I find results are much better on CBN wheels for basically any super steel thats over 61-62 hrc, basically the same steels people recommend diamond plates for free hand sharpening for. But its doable.
Hi there! Just got a T-8 myself, so still learning... May I ask, what is the mask for? Is it because of the CBN wheel? I have a single 600 grit diamond wheel. Thanks
well I am sharpening all day and use many tools some that do make bad dust I just did a test last week that I did in a video and showed with an air quality checker it is not really needed with the T8 it dost throw any dust in the air
The wheels I use most are CBN from Wood Turners Wonders The standard Tormek Wheel can be 250 or 1000 depending on how you grade it. This is a very different animal It's almost as hard as diamond runs cool so it can be used dry. Unlike diamond wheels that should be run in water the CBN also never needs grading and size is alway the same. Many advanates to CBN woodturnerswonders.com/collections/tormek-style-wheels
Thanks. I bought a diamond wheel so I could use the side to flatten chisel backs but will try a cbn for fine grinding. Been watching your technique on the tormek but have yet to master it. Any hints to controlling the knife better? Also is the guide bar longer than the stock one that comes with grinder? If so where did you get it. Appreciate the great video. @@ALXSHARPEN
Why do you sometimes start in the middle of the knife? I would have though that would cause that area to have more metal removed by just a little bit each time, causing a hotspot in one location?
@@pyxern so you will find that many knives are to thick in the heel and the tip and also some handles get in the way so sometimes I start not really in the middle but close to the end and then back into the heel I’m not applying much pressure when I do that but the heel if you start at the very edge it barely gets a chance to contact the stone and often needs more contact. If it had a swale in the blade I wouldn’t do that but I also would correct that condition on every blade I sharpen no knives coming out of my shop with swales in them.
don't remember but if I have to grind a bolster I always do it on a 1x30 currently I do them all on my Toolcker 1x30 its awesome for bolster work @@TurboTylerIX
Awesome video! Wondering if this would be able to do chisels as well? And I see a Tormek in the background, what do you use that for? It seems that these little 1x30”’s can do a pretty awesome job and are quite a bit cheaper overall.
I have seen knife sharpeners doing all of that by hand, without those guide rods on a buffer using cardboard grinder wheels for the final "strop". That was of course 40 some years ago but their blades were sharp as ever.
some people are good at freehand sharpening I dont like it
200 grit wheel is a game changer. Along with a 1200 grit edges are amazing. Did a kitchen knife for my wife, all I can say is "sharp knife, happy wife".
You've become a master trainer. Thanks
Wow, thank you what a nice compliment.
Great video! I've sharpened for a couple decades, mostly on stones but also on belts. I really do think I'll have to get a least one Tormek and maybe a WEN. I think it's going to be about the fastest way to get a good edge. Water stones are enjoyable but it takes me more like fifteen minutes if I do it all by hand.
I have watched alot of videos on your page already and i am really thankfull for you being so passionate about sharing your craft!
Can you elaborate why you pull the handle towards you when sharpening the tip of the knife vs how tormek teaches it and only move the handle up?
I just bought a t8 and im practicing and this confuses me.
Thanks again and greating from the Netherlands,
Steven
😎👍👍 Hey thanks for the links to the wheels!
no problem
Thankyou for the great vid !
My pleasure!
How does the sg stone fair with magnacut steels?
SG as in the standard stone it comes with? It depends a little bit on the heat treat but generally its going to work, just take longer. I will say I notice in mine that above 63 hrc the stone wheel does produce an apex but the sharpness feels a bit wrong, I was told by a knife maker working with these steels that its because the carbides arent cut at the same rate as the steel matrix, basically rounding them over like pebbles in cement.
Generally speaking I find results are much better on CBN wheels for basically any super steel thats over 61-62 hrc, basically the same steels people recommend diamond plates for free hand sharpening for. But its doable.
Hi there! Just got a T-8 myself, so still learning... May I ask, what is the mask for? Is it because of the CBN wheel? I have a single 600 grit diamond wheel. Thanks
well I am sharpening all day and use many tools some that do make bad dust I just did a test last week that I did in a video and showed with an air quality checker it is not really needed with the T8 it dost throw any dust in the air
@@ALXSHARPEN thanks. that's kind of what i expected it being a water process. appreciate the info, thank you!
Is the 1000 grit wheel a standard tormek wheel that you made into a 1000 grit with the stone grader? Haven't seen that grit available. Thanks
The wheels I use most are CBN from Wood Turners Wonders The standard Tormek Wheel can be 250 or 1000 depending on how you grade it. This is a very different animal It's almost as hard as diamond runs cool so it can be used dry. Unlike diamond wheels that should be run in water the CBN also never needs grading and size is alway the same. Many advanates to CBN woodturnerswonders.com/collections/tormek-style-wheels
Thanks. I bought a diamond wheel so I could use the side to flatten chisel backs but will try a cbn for fine grinding. Been watching your technique on the tormek but have yet to master it. Any hints to controlling the knife better? Also is the guide bar longer than the stock one that comes with grinder? If so where did you get it. Appreciate the great video. @@ALXSHARPEN
Why do you sometimes start in the middle of the knife? I would have though that would cause that area to have more metal removed by just a little bit each time, causing a hotspot in one location?
I was thinking the same thing, that it would remove too much material from the belly of the knife doing it that way..
@@pyxern so you will find that many knives are to thick in the heel and the tip and also some handles get in the way so sometimes I start not really in the middle but close to the end and then back into the heel I’m not applying much pressure when I do that but the heel if you start at the very edge it barely gets a chance to contact the stone and often needs more contact. If it had a swale in the blade I wouldn’t do that but I also would correct that condition on every blade I sharpen no knives coming out of my shop with swales in them.
@@ALXSHARPEN makes sense.
Did you take that knife over to your 1x30 afterwards to grind the bolster down?
don't remember but if I have to grind a bolster I always do it on a 1x30 currently I do them all on my Toolcker 1x30 its awesome for bolster work @@TurboTylerIX
Awesome video! Wondering if this would be able to do chisels as well? And I see a Tormek in the background, what do you use that for? It seems that these little 1x30”’s can do a pretty awesome job and are quite a bit cheaper overall.
1x30 are great but I do chisels on my Tormek or my low speed Jet grinder with CBN wheels on it.
@@ALXSHARPEN yeah I suppose trying to get a square edge on a 1x30 would be pretty tough.