You guys covered the most unnecessary stuff like cleaning but left out the wiring. I mean you're talking and cutting wires but you don't actually see what goes to what.
Will a kit like this work on a 1984 3.8L Mustang L Hatchback? If so can you give me the item #? The alternator was always underpowered and the all the lights dim and brighten when everything is running, especially with a stereo amp running. EDIT: Emailed LMR and they said no. Emailed a couple other outfits that have similar kits and they said no. I did find a few on O'Reilly's made by Powermaster that are 150amp and meant to replace the one in my car.
The purpose of the external regulator is to capture the proper circuit and retain the stock wiring harness. It also allows you to keep the factory warning lights and shunt type ammeter. -Landan
How long do your external voltage regulators last and would I have to buy another one from LMR or would a oem voltage regulator work with this upgrade, just curious
Rick - The optimal charging voltage window can differ from application to application and car to car. Most systems produce a charging voltage of 13.7-14.7. -Landan
Landon, my '85 GT stock wiring looks a little bit different than the one in your video. Can you please share more details regarding how the stock "field" and "stator" alternator wires are mated to the new wiring from LMR? My stock '85 alternator has two wires connected to the "stator" terminal and one wire to the "field" terminal. The carb choke obtains its electric from a separate source.
River View - Thanks for the question. I did some digging, and the 1985 Ford EVTM shows the other side of the white/black wire going to the choke relay and then to the EEC test port. We have a 5.0L 5-speed '85 here in the shop with the factory 1G alternator still, and one of the wires from the stator lug is connected to the choke. The second wire on the lug snakes off into the harness. The two wires share one ring terminal on the stator lug. In your scenario, I would track down where the white/black wires are going if one side isn't connected to the choke. The "field" wire on the 3G alternator voltage regulator plug (green/red wire) will connect to the orange/light blue wire on the factory harness just like we show in the video. Hope this helps. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Thank you for the detailed response. My '85 5.0L 5-speed sounds like it is wired exactly the way you explained the car you have in your shop. I confirmed one of the two wires connected to stock alternator stator post goes to the choke. The second black/white factory wire (connected to the stock alternator stator post) snakes off into the harness like you explained. I no longer use the factory choke wire, so will eliminate it. My guess is to splice the black/white factory wire (formerly connected to the stator post and the other end snakes off into the harness) onto the new stator wire like explained in the video. Do you agree?
@@riverview2233 You're welcome. You can splice the white/black wire from the harness to the stator wire if you'd like. Or, you can cut it, cover it with heat shrink, and then wrap it with the rest of the wires. Upon further investigation, it looks like the white/black wire makes a stop at the choke relay before going to the EEC port. Since you've bypassed the factory choke, splicing that wire wouldn't be necessary. -Landan
I’m not using any factory gauges. Can I use an alternator with built in regulator and get rid of the external regulator hanging off the side under my hood so I don’t have to look at it ? And what do I need if so ?
For the factory harness and years of the car, we still recommend this kit. I am not sure what steps you would need to do to eliminate all of the external regulators.
I have a 82 foxbody 5.0. It is cammed and bored over some. With that saying is the voltage to high at 14.62 without loads but with loads is 14.44. Is that ok or drawing to much charge.
My car had the original alternator from 83 I just tried putting a 1g alternator and it didn’t work figured out it was the harness to the alternator it was melted on the inside and the voltage regulator was shocked had corrosion all in the connector to it and dirt cleaned that replaced it and wallla
I just took mine out of box and mocked up and stator wire plug fell off lol hopefully I can find one at parts store lol or my car will be down another week I guess 🤷🏻♂️
Hi Francisco, We do sell the wiring individually: lmr.com/item/PA-462802C1/Mustang-1G-To-3G-Plug-Upgrade lmr.com/item/PA-9905/99-04-Mustang-4-Gauge-Premium-Power-Wire-For-Use-With-170-And-200-Amp-Alternators
@@latemodelrestoration thanks for the response. The reason I'm asking is my dad is restoring a 64 Comet. He swapped in a 5.0 from an 88 Mark VII. He needs an internally regulated alt that will fit his brackets. The stock Mark VII alt fits but we don't want to mess with the remote regulator.
I have 1985 mustang TBI. And upgrade to 150 amps alternator but I was struggling due to my stock has 3 wires, 1 for the throttle body, battery, and ground. And the new one have only 2 connectors. I need help. I tried to find any video on how to convert the stock to performance alternator but I don't see anything with the same model I have.
Ah, a 1983 GT. Nice to see one.
I can't wait to get my 3g conversion for my 85 lx!
is your 85 mustang a carburetor or TBI? Mind is TBI and having trouble installing the performance alternator.
@@leeconsolacion5666 tbi. Mine went in with no problems. What send to be the problem?
Finally a video that fully explains this, thanks man. Keep up the great work
You guys covered the most unnecessary stuff like cleaning but left out the wiring. I mean you're talking and cutting wires but you don't actually see what goes to what.
Lovely!!
Will a kit like this work on a 1984 3.8L Mustang L Hatchback? If so can you give me the item #? The alternator was always underpowered and the all the lights dim and brighten when everything is running, especially with a stereo amp running.
EDIT: Emailed LMR and they said no. Emailed a couple other outfits that have similar kits and they said no. I did find a few on O'Reilly's made by Powermaster that are 150amp and meant to replace the one in my car.
Nice vid, guys try to use 3M super 88 tape, it works great😎😎
So if a 3G Alternator already has a regulator on it, what is the purpose of the External Regulator that the 1G system uses?
The purpose of the external regulator is to capture the proper circuit and retain the stock wiring harness. It also allows you to keep the factory warning lights and shunt type ammeter. -Landan
How long do your external voltage regulators last and would I have to buy another one from LMR or would a oem voltage regulator work with this upgrade, just curious
Isn’t a 14.6 or close to it over charging?
Rick - The optimal charging voltage window can differ from application to application and car to car. Most systems produce a charging voltage of 13.7-14.7. -Landan
Would this kit work on the same engine but in an F150?
Landon, my '85 GT stock wiring looks a little bit different than the one in your video. Can you please share more details regarding how the stock "field" and "stator" alternator wires are mated to the new wiring from LMR? My stock '85 alternator has two wires connected to the "stator" terminal and one wire to the "field" terminal. The carb choke obtains its electric from a separate source.
River View - Thanks for the question. I did some digging, and the 1985 Ford EVTM shows the other side of the white/black wire going to the choke relay and then to the EEC test port. We have a 5.0L 5-speed '85 here in the shop with the factory 1G alternator still, and one of the wires from the stator lug is connected to the choke. The second wire on the lug snakes off into the harness. The two wires share one ring terminal on the stator lug.
In your scenario, I would track down where the white/black wires are going if one side isn't connected to the choke. The "field" wire on the 3G alternator voltage regulator plug (green/red wire) will connect to the orange/light blue wire on the factory harness just like we show in the video. Hope this helps. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Thank you for the detailed response. My '85 5.0L 5-speed sounds like it is wired exactly the way you explained the car you have in your shop. I confirmed one of the two wires connected to stock alternator stator post goes to the choke. The second black/white factory wire (connected to the stock alternator stator post) snakes off into the harness like you explained. I no longer use the factory choke wire, so will eliminate it. My guess is to splice the black/white factory wire (formerly connected to the stator post and the other end snakes off into the harness) onto the new stator wire like explained in the video. Do you agree?
@@riverview2233 You're welcome. You can splice the white/black wire from the harness to the stator wire if you'd like. Or, you can cut it, cover it with heat shrink, and then wrap it with the rest of the wires. Upon further investigation, it looks like the white/black wire makes a stop at the choke relay before going to the EEC port. Since you've bypassed the factory choke, splicing that wire wouldn't be necessary. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Appreciate the follow-up. thx
I’m not using any factory gauges. Can I use an alternator with built in regulator and get rid of the external regulator hanging off the side under my hood so I don’t have to look at it ? And what do I need if so ?
For the factory harness and years of the car, we still recommend this kit. I am not sure what steps you would need to do to eliminate all of the external regulators.
Whu was a external regulator needed and replaced when a 3G alternator has its own internal regulator?
The new external regulator retains the OEM warning lights and shunt type ammeter when doing a 3G conversion. -Landan
I tried to find one but there all to big is there any were you can help me because I can't figure it out thank for your time.
I have a 82 foxbody 5.0. It is cammed and bored over some. With that saying is the voltage to high at 14.62 without loads but with loads is 14.44. Is that ok or drawing to much charge.
Clay - 14.62 volts is perfectly fine. -Landan
Where does the stator wire come from besides the alternator and what’s the field wire coming from besides the alternator?
What's the reason for your question? -Landan
Trying to wire my alternator for my 83 mustang gt
@@FadedSaucin Is the wiring not complete or something? If it's all intact, follow the steps in the video. Thanks. -Landan
My car had the original alternator from 83 I just tried putting a 1g alternator and it didn’t work figured out it was the harness to the alternator it was melted on the inside and the voltage regulator was shocked had corrosion all in the connector to it and dirt cleaned that replaced it and wallla
@@FadedSaucin Glad you got it figured out. -Landan
I just took mine out of box and mocked up and stator wire plug fell off lol hopefully I can find one at parts store lol or my car will be down another week I guess 🤷🏻♂️
Stephen, if you are needing help, please reach out to our customer service team and they will be happy to look into this one for you. lmr.com/contact
There is a problem :O when you don't use the original black and orange stripe wire off the alternator your original voltmeter gauge will not work :(
Do you guys sale just the wiring kit ??
Hi Francisco, We do sell the wiring individually:
lmr.com/item/PA-462802C1/Mustang-1G-To-3G-Plug-Upgrade
lmr.com/item/PA-9905/99-04-Mustang-4-Gauge-Premium-Power-Wire-For-Use-With-170-And-200-Amp-Alternators
Can the pulley be changed for a , 302 1980?
Yes, but why do you need to change it? -Landan
@latemodelrestoration My engine does not have a poly v belt.
@@salvadorhernandez352 Yes, the pulley can be changed as long as the v-belt pulley has the correct inner diameter for the rotor shaft. -Landan
'80-'81 Mustang/Capri weren't available with a 302/5.0. The only V8 available in '80-'81 Mustang/Capri was the 4.2/255.
do you guys or anyone else make in internally regulated 3g alternator that will work on the stock accessory drive?
Not for the 79-85 models, this would be the best option overall for proper operation.
@@latemodelrestoration thanks for the response. The reason I'm asking is my dad is restoring a 64 Comet. He swapped in a 5.0 from an 88 Mark VII. He needs an internally regulated alt that will fit his brackets. The stock Mark VII alt fits but we don't want to mess with the remote regulator.
I know my reply is three years late however there was a small case 3G alternator that was used in Ford Escorts that may fit better.
Video came out after I struggled with my install lmao 🤦🏻♂️
I have 1985 mustang TBI. And upgrade to 150 amps alternator but I was struggling due to my stock has 3 wires, 1 for the throttle body, battery, and ground. And the new one have only 2 connectors. I need help. I tried to find any video on how to convert the stock to performance alternator but I don't see anything with the same model I have.
Nice parts but we don’t use butt connectors…. Horrible wiring
on the 1986