I bought a 4 gauge power wire upgrade kit when i did mine and the fuse came in a really nice box, i installed it under my battery tray out of sight,that was 12 years ago,i recently did some maintenance and pulled the tray out and the fuse looks the same the day i installed it,great location and you don't have that box over the battery, if you look at your tray underneath it has a rectangular spot thats hollow,position your fuse so when you put the tray back in the fuse will fit underneath it and done! Also i wanted to add for those out there contemplating doing this,buying or making the upgraded wire (4 gauge) is a MUST, the wiring on a stock mustang (black and orange wires) wasn't really made to handle this kinda upgrade,the fuse links are really not up to par, but it will run....for awhile but not worth waiting for that day you see smoke coming from your hood,secondly , if you install the 4 gauge wire DO NOT wire the orange/black wires also to it,tape them real good and put them out of the way. Reason for this is if you have them connected both and that big fuse in your 4 gauge goes out you are back to square one and the circuit will be running now on those 2 smaller orange wires just waiting to overheat and destroy your prized car,if the big fuse goes out and you only have your 4 gauge wire connected, your alternator will quit working and you will know soon enough,id rather replace a fuse that's gone bad or trouble shooting a problem vs losing my car.
@@true_believer3548Yes, the other harness connector wiring is for your dash light. I ran a single wire alternator for a long time and the voltage gauge still worked but the alt light did not.
Hey guys I know this is late but worth a shot. Im a Ford fan and noticed when I did the alternator upgrade on my Lincoln Town car (4.6 sohc) along with the wires I kept the black and orange wire and it still overheats the alternator. I have 1 battery under the hood and 1 in the trunk for aux. Things like power inverter. Anyone have any idea why it would overheat?
I love these install videos from you guys! I've used several of them while replacing things in my 89 GT with no previous auto mechanical knowledge, and had no issues at all with any of the installations. Thank you! PS - I'm now sitting at 14.5-14.6v at idle myself...big improvement!
doing this now picked up a bone stock 89 gt w/87K miles on it. clearancing that bracket is kicking my a** then again I am using a rough cut file and a small corded dremel LOL. Im mm's away from it fitting and just burned up my last dremel head
just bought that exact set up for my 90 hatch "204$ after all taxes" and runs like a charm not bad for the price. can't complain. easy to follow instructions took about 20 minutes to install, I also bought the aftermarket alternator bracket "65$" and did not have to do any cutting. saves so much time.
I did this upgrade on my 82 GT using a 96 3.8 mustang 130 amp alternator. Absolutely worth it. I have a 94 mustang electric fan, underdrive pulleys, and a system. No issues at all with charging.
Thanks for the kind words. We know how much easier it is to show people how to install parts on video versus reading them like you said. I hope you enjoy them all. Make sure you subscribe to get all the latest videos.
I bought this kit for my 94 mustang cobra and the belt woulnt fit because the pulley on the 130 amp is bigger than the factory one. How can I find out how much of a bigger belt I’ll need?
@@justinbobbitt6835 I'm assuming you're out of range on the tensioner? The increase in diameter is marginal, so you'll probably only need a 1/2" longer belt. Option 2, would be to swap the pulleys. -Landan
installed on a bone stock 89 w 87k on the ticker. Perfect instructions and great video, this was stupid easy to do. I had my air box off when i started the car so i had a severely rough idle but was able to check the voltage at the battery after the alt install and power wire and it was a solid 14.95v old one was barely hitting 12 . If you can follow instructions you can do easily do this. the most tedious of the install was grinding down the bracket but then again i had a rough cut hand file and a small corded Dremel with 3 tired grinding heads. I will say that one of my splices that was included in the kit (red one) didn't fit the new yellow wire on the new plug. It was a minor oversite and I just used a blue environmental splice (has a bit of solder in it that heats up when heat shrinked and fuses the wire) that i had. Perfect video perfect install, you guys know your Sh*T. FYI leaving the stock power wire in the mix hurts nothing! Also it allows your voltage gauge to work. JUst follow the instructions people if it doesn't say to remove it don't remove it
I installed mine, FINALLY. it was hell because it's hot outside, but i grinded down the bracket instead of cutting it. When i started my car, the battery volts read higher, so that charge is stronger. Wire crimping is kinda hassling a lot of mechanics were scared to do it
Just ordered mine. Went with the all black. So stoked. I can tell my lights when driving just aren't having a good time. Im excited to not have a drop in output! Lifetime warranty on an alternater is unheard of so im very happy about that as well! I'm gonna pair it with a yellow top Optima battery and throw all kinds of stuff at it. Thanks LMR! I'm glad I switched from CJ Pony parts. They are a 1 star rating compared to you guys at an easy 5! Love you guys
I recommend every one out there with stock alternator do this / it cost me 1500 dollars to replace everything under the hood BECAUSE OF THE FACTORY ALTERNATOR CAUGHT ON FIRE
I like all LMR videos. Always helpful. Always have been satisfied with all your products. That's why I subscribe and will continue to purchase through LMR. Keep up the good work.
I bought a 80 amp at O'Reilly's lol🤣 I didn't know that they was bad. Now my car ain't getting the correct charge I got a new battery but I think I need one of your guys 130 amp alternator
connected the alernator power wire to the power wire from Starter (just possible with 92 + or you have a mini Starter with proper Starter Solenoide) connectors and fuse costet 10 Bucks..works perfect..full power at idlespeed... no need for 50 $$ extra Cable..!!!
Awesome video 👍 Gives me the inspiration to do the job! my luck I'll end up changing the alternator and having to pull the transmission for some god-awful reason! 😂😂😂
No, you'll need one that fits a truck. We offer parts for OBS Bronco and Lightning. You can shop either category since a lot of the parts crossover between all of the OBS trucks. -Landan Bronco: lmr.com/products/1992-1996-ford-bronco-pulley-accessory-drive-alternator-power-steering-air-condition Lightning: lmr.com/products/ford-lightning-accessory-drive-93-95
Question, I have a foxbody and it started idling funny, figured it wasint getting the right spark or misfiring so changed plugs wires distributer cap oil change full tune up basically , still doing the same thing I took a look at my voltage meter in the vehicle when started it drops constantly and the car dies. Could a Altenator be the problem?
i have a battery relocation kit installed.. the two black and orange wire went to a 200 amp fuse, then after the fuse it goes to the battery switch in the trunk that goes to the solenoid.. should i install it the same way were as the video were i run the wire to the solenoid or can i just run the 4g wire to that fuse??? hope that makes sense... thanks if you need a picture i will email one.. thanks again for the help..
77 f250 with a 460. electric fan and fuel pump....it would slowly die at nite if i idled around to much...even had to be towd home once before i learned this....3g fixed that
I bought the kit for my 87 that also includes the 4ga wire, but the new wire's ring terminal won't go all the way onto the alternator stud's contact surface because the ring terminal is too wide for both of the slots in the red plastic ring surrounding the alternator stud/post. For what I paid, there should be no issues like this. Suggestions?
@latemodelrestoration, @John E McDonald So with this upgrade, the Factory Power Wire continues to function as usual. But the 4 Gauge Power Wire is added to bring over the additional power to charge the battery and supply power to the vehicle?
This has always been the great debate when upgrading a Fox Mustang to a 130 amp alternator. Some people will tell you to omit the factory power wires. We instruct people to keep the factory power wires based on warranty and liability reasons set forth by our alternator supplier. I can tell you this, I've installed several of these kits over the years using the method shown in the video and have never had a problem. It's important to note that every car is different and none of know the history. If any problem surfaces from a current modification or change, then you know troubleshooting is required to find a resolution. Hope this helps. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Hi Landan. Thank you for responding. My 88 Fox Mustang LX 5.0 is stocked. This will be the first modification made on my car. I plan on keeping it stocked and only upgrading and modifying only what is necessary. My concern with the 130-amp alternator upgrade is that we have two connections coming from the alternator to the solenoid, and only one has a breaker to interrupt the power flow if something happens. Other than that, I look forward to the additional power this will provide.
@@Mustang8846 The in stock date we show on the website is based on ACC's forecast. Hopefully, what we currently show will be accurate. The date is subject to change. Sign up for in stock alerts if you haven't already. -Landan
I have 2 white and black wires one on the regulator plug and one on the stator plug but it doesnt have one on the stator plug on this video how am I suppose to wire it ?
Adrian Martinez I was asking the same question...he leaves out the white wire on stator plug and from voltage reg. wire coming from car into voltage reg. plug...he only connected reg. plug white wire to new stator white wire... I'm confused too
why didn't undo the stock power wire? shouldn't you just undo it at Both ends? that's the one part I'm super confused about cause 2 power wires even though one is the upgrade that's not a good mix. plead get back asap since I'm really considering this upgrade
Nothing wrong with leaving the old power wires in, you get additional current carrying capacity and less voltage drop and have to modify less. As long as they aren't damaged its easier just to leave them in, and later if you opted to return the car to stock for sale, or wanted to move your stuff to a different car, the old stuff can be quickly swapped back in. Also if you wanted to move up to a 200 amp alternator for additional electronics, you have the additional capacity and efficiency if you have both wires. Downside is there is an additional point of failure and may look less clean, so the choice is yours.
I am a bit confused on what amp fuse to use with the 4 Guage wire? I did not see any specifics on that and what should be used. I purchased the alternator but did not receive the kit so I'm just looking for what fuse to use and about how much wire for my 93 Mustang.
Hello, I was wondering if you guys could do a video on motor mounts install? I have an all stock 1985 fox, and am having trouble with clearance issues. I do not have a lift or cherry picker, and am working only with Jack Stands and a 14.5" max height dolly Jack.
I bought this kit, but for some reason when I was crimping the last ring terminal on the blk/orange wire, it didn't hold. What do I do now? I looked in the bag, but there were only 2 provided, not even a single extra one... What to do now?
Wal Mart or any local auto parts store will have packs of ring terminals. I'd suggest keeping some of these on-hand. You never know when you might need them. -Landan
Newbie questions: what do you use to cut to allow the bigger alternator space? Angle grinder? Also what's the best tool to use to heat the connector during re-wiring? Soldering torch?
What.if I put a 370a alt in my foxbody , without any aftermarket upgrades which are soon to come after the alt swap, will 370a be to much for a stock vehicle
Those orange and black wires DO NOT need to be connected or shouldn't,thats what the big 4 gauge wire is for,people keep fencing about this and when their car is on fire they will remember these words. Some people say their stock gauge wont work if those are not connected, thats BS,i have a 89 and a 91 and both of my gauges work fine,those wires used to carry all the juice on the old puny alternator but when you go much Bigger thats why you have to use the bigger wire and not use those smaller ones (black and orange), the wire that runs your gauge is the green wire thats part of the plug that goes into the new alternator, you have 2 plugs going into your new alternator,a big plug with 2 wires and a small plug with one wire. Not sure why this is so hard to understand (i dont mean you) but some people on here that insist on using those black and orange wires,its kinda like making your Mustang a 10 second quarter mile car and still use those brakes that came with it,not gonna work,you are going to need big Cobra brakes,lol
What is just the whole wiring kit with out the alternator is there a part # so I can get the new alternator plug wires in the 4g wire with the fuse link!!!
Will this kit also work for an 89 Bronco with the 5.0? The mounting bolts on my alternator roughly measure 7” from center to center. I’m considering purchasing this kit instead of doing a 3G alt conversión because your kit comes with everything needed. I’m upgrading to dual electric fans and have an audio system and my stock 2G alternator gave out.
can I make my 85 work with this kit, I want to remove the external regulator and go with the 86 to 93 style. I saw you have a kit for my 85 but it seems to me that it still usews the external regulator. maybe im wrong HELP
I did this to my 82 GT. No need for external regulator. Just hook up the field wire in the wire harness, white stator wire to positive lead that goes to battery side of starter soleniod, and bam. I used 4 gauge wire and 175 amp fuse from alternator to the solenoid.
+Brandon Smith I have a 85 mustang and I want to do this is there a place on the net I can get a wiring diagram or all I do is take just the white wire only to the solenoid and change the plug ends
That's exactly what I did too. The set up in this video did not work on my car and in fact fried a couple fuses trying to use the factory wire as described. 4 guage with 175 amp fuse from alternator to Solenoid is the way to go.
I put this whole kit in my Mustang and now I am getting no charge when at idle and all the accessories are running. Should I check the wiring before I send it back? And where do I do a warranty return?
Hey there, Give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below and a customer care representative can assist you with that! lmr.com/contact
What year is the car? I'm assuming 1979-1985? If that's the case, we have a specific video and alternator kits for those year ranges. Check out the links below. Thanks. -Landan Alternators: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Alternators-Components 79-85 1G to 3G Alternator Conversion Video: th-cam.com/video/p6m9pP4wXrw/w-d-xo.html
So the issue i am having with my 1989 notchback automatic is: I have this alternator upgrade AND a new high torque starter. both cables are going to the starter solenoid and my car doesn't seem to be charging correctly, At idle, the battery gauge slowly drops down along with the idle until it stalls. I restart it and keep my pedal pushed alittle to keep the idle higher so it won't stall again, while driving it seems to be fine. It's almost like the starter solenoid doesn't have enough juice to keep up with powering the car.
Bought a SR performance 3G 130 amp on American Muscle. All I got was alternator no other hardware pretty damn pissed. My stock has the 3 spade design and The new one is 1. Was so confused so I have to get what LMR kit they offer?
I just finished installing it and I was hooking up the battery and when I went to go put the positive battery cable the car almost took off on me. Is this a wireing issue? I know I for sure hooked it up right it's very simple.
@@latemodelrestoration thank you landan! Turns out the big fat cable that needs to be connected to the starter solenoid. I put it on the wrong side of the starter solenoid. lol
There seems to be differing opinions about the black/orange wires with the power wire upgrade. Is it safe or recommended to attach those two along with the 4 gauge wire to the alternator. I am installing the 130 amp alternator in my fox.
Leaving the factory black/orange power wires connected along with installing a 4G wire upgrade has been the suggested method for a long time. We've recommended leaving them attached since we released our kits. If you're installing one of an SVE kit, the installation procedure must be performed as stated, or the warranty will be voided. Hope this helps! -Landan
Purchased the 130 amp kit with a 4g power wire. Installed it and it works great, but I had noticed the 4g wire got a little on the warm side and some for the rubber melted at the ends. Can you tell me why this had happened and should I be worried? Thanks....
I followed this to a T, and when I hooked my battery posts back up. Smoke filled the sky, what did I do wrong? Is the alternator now no good? Would you say the wires that were melted no good also?
Mine did the same thing. Smoke was coming from my starter solenoid. I ended up melting the cover off one of the wires. I ended up disconnecting the 2 black wires from the alternator and it seems to be fine. My new problem is when I start the car the starter says engaged. I never had this problem before the upgrade. Could somebody help me please? Could the power being generated from the alternator be keeping the starter on? Thank you in advance! - Jeff
We offer more alternators for the 3.8L V6. Please email us at customerservice@lmr.com or give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 for inquiries. Thanks! - Jude H. - Social Media/Events Coordinator
Hi James, you won't be able to use the full potential power that the alternator creates when running it on your car. We strongly recommend installing the power wire.
But what about the bracket that came with it? You never covered that part. I have instructions that are probably 10 years old and it doesn't say anything about the bracket. That's just lazy management.
@@latemodelrestoration The SVE 130 amp alternator. You can either cut a piece of the original or replace the bracket. I was able to switch it but it was trickier than I thought. I think the trick with the bracket is put in the left side bolts in first loosely and than put the two smaller bolts off to the right last.
@@JMac85X This video was released prior to us offering the replacement bracket that already has the extra clearance. Thanks for understanding and we're glad you got it installed.
Thanks for the comment. Click the link below and scroll down. You'll see the other options. -Landan lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Alternators-Components
Is it bad to have a high amp alternator like this one if the car has stock electronics (for now)? Also do we need to upgrade to a bigger battery as well?
I know you asked this 2 months ago but just wanted to say, i did this conversion 10 years ago, best thing i ever did!! i was looking for some info on something and ran into this video and saw your question.
I bought a 4 gauge power wire upgrade kit when i did mine and the fuse came in a really nice box, i installed it under my battery tray out of sight,that was 12 years ago,i recently did some maintenance and pulled the tray out and the fuse looks the same the day i installed it,great location and you don't have that box over the battery, if you look at your tray underneath it has a rectangular spot thats hollow,position your fuse so when you put the tray back in the fuse will fit underneath it and done!
Also i wanted to add for those out there contemplating doing this,buying or making the upgraded wire (4 gauge) is a MUST, the wiring on a stock mustang (black and orange wires) wasn't really made to handle this kinda upgrade,the fuse links are really not up to par, but it will run....for awhile but not worth waiting for that day you see smoke coming from your hood,secondly , if you install the 4 gauge wire DO NOT wire the orange/black wires also to it,tape them real good and put them out of the way.
Reason for this is if you have them connected both and that big fuse in your 4 gauge goes out you are back to square one and the circuit will be running now on those 2 smaller orange wires just waiting to overheat and destroy your prized car,if the big fuse goes out and you only have your 4 gauge wire connected, your alternator will quit working and you will know soon enough,id rather replace a fuse that's gone bad or trouble shooting a problem vs losing my car.
I was really confused about that I will take those 2 wires off...thanks for that info bro 😎👌🏽
Ok, but if you don't connect the orange/black wires will your stock voltage meter still work in the dash?
4 gauge wire is rated for 70 amps plus the two 10 gauge factory wires can carry 30 amps each for a total of 130 amps.
@@true_believer3548Yes, the other harness connector wiring is for your dash light. I ran a single wire alternator for a long time and the voltage gauge still worked but the alt light did not.
Hey guys I know this is late but worth a shot. Im a Ford fan and noticed when I did the alternator upgrade on my Lincoln Town car (4.6 sohc) along with the wires I kept the black and orange wire and it still overheats the alternator. I have 1 battery under the hood and 1 in the trunk for aux. Things like power inverter. Anyone have any idea why it would overheat?
i like how yall make it simple vs reading diy online they want you go out and buy all these things. keep up the good work guys
Ordered mine last week. Should be here this week. This is a MUST UPGRADE!
I love these install videos from you guys! I've used several of them while replacing things in my 89 GT with no previous auto mechanical knowledge, and had no issues at all with any of the installations. Thank you!
PS - I'm now sitting at 14.5-14.6v at idle myself...big improvement!
doing this now picked up a bone stock 89 gt w/87K miles on it. clearancing that bracket is kicking my a** then again I am using a rough cut file and a small corded dremel LOL. Im mm's away from it fitting and just burned up my last dremel head
just bought that exact set up for my 90 hatch "204$ after all taxes" and runs like a charm not bad for the price. can't complain. easy to follow instructions took about 20 minutes to install, I also bought the aftermarket alternator bracket "65$" and did not have to do any cutting. saves so much time.
This is a great kit and it has become a super popular kit for Fox Body!
I did this upgrade on my 82 GT using a 96 3.8 mustang 130 amp alternator. Absolutely worth it. I have a 94 mustang electric fan, underdrive pulleys, and a system. No issues at all with charging.
It is actually one of our project cars that got shoved in the corner and forgotten about. You might see it make a miraculous come back one day :)
Thanks for the kind words. We know how much easier it is to show people how to install parts on video versus reading them like you said. I hope you enjoy them all. Make sure you subscribe to get all the latest videos.
I bought this kit for my 94 mustang cobra and the belt woulnt fit because the pulley on the 130 amp is bigger than the factory one. How can I find out how much of a bigger belt I’ll need?
@@justinbobbitt6835 I'm assuming you're out of range on the tensioner? The increase in diameter is marginal, so you'll probably only need a 1/2" longer belt. Option 2, would be to swap the pulleys. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration yes and I did figure out which belt finally but thank u.
I think you guys should adopt that Mustang as a project car. It looks like it needs some love. Once again, great video.
installed on a bone stock 89 w 87k on the ticker. Perfect instructions and great video, this was stupid easy to do. I had my air box off when i started the car so i had a severely rough idle but was able to check the voltage at the battery after the alt install and power wire and it was a solid 14.95v old one was barely hitting 12 . If you can follow instructions you can do easily do this. the most tedious of the install was grinding down the bracket but then again i had a rough cut hand file and a small corded Dremel with 3 tired grinding heads. I will say that one of my splices that was included in the kit (red one) didn't fit the new yellow wire on the new plug. It was a minor oversite and I just used a blue environmental splice (has a bit of solder in it that heats up when heat shrinked and fuses the wire) that i had. Perfect video perfect install, you guys know your Sh*T. FYI leaving the stock power wire in the mix hurts nothing! Also it allows your voltage gauge to work. JUst follow the instructions people if it doesn't say to remove it don't remove it
The black with orange stripe?
Noise suppression will help cut down on car audio noise coming from your electrical system.
I installed mine, FINALLY. it was hell because it's hot outside, but i grinded down the bracket instead of cutting it. When i started my car, the battery volts read higher, so that charge is stronger. Wire crimping is kinda hassling a lot of mechanics were scared to do it
Just ordered mine. Went with the all black. So stoked. I can tell my lights when driving just aren't having a good time. Im excited to not have a drop in output! Lifetime warranty on an alternater is unheard of so im very happy about that as well! I'm gonna pair it with a yellow top Optima battery and throw all kinds of stuff at it. Thanks LMR! I'm glad I switched from CJ Pony parts. They are a 1 star rating compared to you guys at an easy 5! Love you guys
Thank you that means a lot coming from another Mustang Enthusiast! Stay tuned. We have a lot of great new videos on the way!
I recommend every one out there with stock alternator do this / it cost me 1500 dollars to replace everything under the hood BECAUSE OF THE FACTORY ALTERNATOR CAUGHT ON FIRE
This is especially true if you are running electric fans or custom car stereos in your Fox Body Mustang.
I had the same issue with my 91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC currently working on this issue...
Can you guys please do a video on how to properly relocate your battery to the trunk
I like all LMR videos. Always helpful. Always have been satisfied with all your products. That's why I subscribe and will continue to purchase through LMR. Keep up the good work.
I just recieved my 250amp alternator from power bastards ...im very excited.
Thabks for this vid I have an 88 mustang my mom used to drive and i can use this vidio to fix it up.
I bought a 80 amp at O'Reilly's lol🤣 I didn't know that they was bad. Now my car ain't getting the correct charge I got a new battery but I think I need one of your guys 130 amp alternator
Great Video, just in time. I am installing the 130 amp Today. Your videos help me and thats why I buy from Late Model Restoration. Great Job Guys!
Now i know why my 92 2.3 mustang kept eating alternators. A 2g almost burned down my 86F150 to the ground. I caught it just in time thank the lord
Do the 2.3 and 5.0 engine use the same alternator?
Sounds like an alternator problem or alternator wiring issue. You may want to have your battery checked as well if it is a few years old.
connected the alernator power wire to the power wire from Starter (just possible with 92 + or you have a mini Starter with proper Starter Solenoide) connectors and fuse costet 10 Bucks..works perfect..full power at idlespeed... no need for 50 $$ extra Cable..!!!
Can we replace the black/orange wire with the 4g wire ? Or we have to keep the black/orange with it ? And
you explain it so well like all your amazing walk throughs. thanks!
No problem at all Bill, we love what we do here at LMR!
Awesome video 👍 Gives me the inspiration to do the job! my luck I'll end up changing the alternator and having to pull the transmission for some god-awful reason! 😂😂😂
He is THE BADASS! aka Jmac
You need to have Jmac collaborate with Landon on some new how-to videos. Go Jmac!!
You guys should really do the 79-85 since they are different
There is a problem :O when you don't use the original black and orange stripe wire off the alternator your original voltmeter gauge will not work :(
helpful information even though I have a Chevy just bought a 140 amp alternator yesterday wish me luck
Can this kit be installed in a 1992 ford f-150 351W engine?
No, you'll need one that fits a truck. We offer parts for OBS Bronco and Lightning. You can shop either category since a lot of the parts crossover between all of the OBS trucks. -Landan
Bronco: lmr.com/products/1992-1996-ford-bronco-pulley-accessory-drive-alternator-power-steering-air-condition
Lightning: lmr.com/products/ford-lightning-accessory-drive-93-95
Do one for the 4 cylinder PLEASE, it has different wiring
It’s the same wiring for a 4 cylinder on a 1991 mustang.
15 amps at idle! Holy cow
Thank you so much!
Question, I have a foxbody and it started idling funny, figured it wasint getting the right spark or misfiring so changed plugs wires distributer cap oil change full tune up basically , still doing the same thing I took a look at my voltage meter in the vehicle when started it drops constantly and the car dies. Could a Altenator be the problem?
hey did u ever figure this out? i have the same problem with my 89 5.0
So the 4 gauge wire connects on the starter cable side on the selenoid? Or does it need to connect to the battery cable side of the starter selenoid?
ID Black it connects to the battery cable side
I have a 1984 Mustang with an external regulator. I have installed the alternator but need to know how to wire the connectors to the car.
i have a battery relocation kit installed.. the two black and orange wire went to a 200 amp fuse, then after the fuse it goes to the battery switch in the trunk that goes to the solenoid.. should i install it the same way were as the video were i run the wire to the solenoid or can i just run the 4g wire to that fuse??? hope that makes sense... thanks if you need a picture i will email one.. thanks again for the help..
What kind of heater is that?
the two wires on the stator do i wire them together on a 1989 mustang the new alternator only has one wire
after i added this alternator to my mustang. my stsrter silenoid keeps getting suck why?
77 f250 with a 460. electric fan and fuel pump....it would slowly die at nite if i idled around to much...even had to be towd home once before i learned this....3g fixed that
Was looking at the 4 gauge wire and what's the difference between the one WITHOUT noise suppression and the one WITH noise suppression?
I bought the kit for my 87 that also includes the 4ga wire, but the new wire's ring terminal won't go all the way onto the alternator stud's contact surface because the ring terminal is too wide for both of the slots in the red plastic ring surrounding the alternator stud/post. For what I paid, there should be no issues like this. Suggestions?
To better assist you, please contact our customer service representatives. -Landan
lmr.com/contact
Both positive cables connect in the same spot on solenoid ?
i have a 85 mustang how do i change it over
@latemodelrestoration, @John E McDonald So with this upgrade, the Factory Power Wire continues to function as usual. But the 4 Gauge Power Wire is added to bring over the additional power to charge the battery and supply power to the vehicle?
This has always been the great debate when upgrading a Fox Mustang to a 130 amp alternator. Some people will tell you to omit the factory power wires. We instruct people to keep the factory power wires based on warranty and liability reasons set forth by our alternator supplier. I can tell you this, I've installed several of these kits over the years using the method shown in the video and have never had a problem. It's important to note that every car is different and none of know the history. If any problem surfaces from a current modification or change, then you know troubleshooting is required to find a resolution. Hope this helps. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Hi Landan. Thank you for responding. My 88 Fox Mustang LX 5.0 is stocked. This will be the first modification made on my car. I plan on keeping it stocked and only upgrading and modifying only what is necessary. My concern with the 130-amp alternator upgrade is that we have two connections coming from the alternator to the solenoid, and only one has a breaker to interrupt the power flow if something happens. Other than that, I look forward to the additional power this will provide.
@latemodelrestoration - Landan, do you know when LMR will have more scarlet red mass back carpet in for the Foxbody hatchback? Norm - Mustang8846
@@Mustang8846 The in stock date we show on the website is based on ACC's forecast. Hopefully, what we currently show will be accurate. The date is subject to change. Sign up for in stock alerts if you haven't already. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Thank you Landan.
***** can you use the factory wiring if its in good shape or do you have to change the wiring
Could I connect the power wire directly to the positive battery post instead of the solenoid?
I have 2 white and black wires one on the regulator plug and one on the stator plug but it doesnt have one on the stator plug on this video how am I suppose to wire it ?
Adrian Martinez I was asking the same question...he leaves out the white wire on stator plug and from voltage reg. wire coming from car into voltage reg. plug...he only connected reg. plug white wire to new stator white wire... I'm confused too
I also have that wiring issue right now on my 92 Fox.
why didn't undo the stock power wire? shouldn't you just undo it at Both ends? that's the one part I'm super confused about cause 2 power wires even though one is the upgrade that's not a good mix. plead get back asap since I'm really considering this upgrade
yellowdognut45 Iam just as confused as your are on this part... ummm LMR address the question
Nothing wrong with leaving the old power wires in, you get additional current carrying capacity and less voltage drop and have to modify less. As long as they aren't damaged its easier just to leave them in, and later if you opted to return the car to stock for sale, or wanted to move your stuff to a different car, the old stuff can be quickly swapped back in. Also if you wanted to move up to a 200 amp alternator for additional electronics, you have the additional capacity and efficiency if you have both wires. Downside is there is an additional point of failure and may look less clean, so the choice is yours.
I am a bit confused on what amp fuse to use with the 4 Guage wire? I did not see any specifics on that and what should be used. I purchased the alternator but did not receive the kit so I'm just looking for what fuse to use and about how much wire for my 93 Mustang.
Hello,
I was wondering if you guys could do a video on motor mounts install?
I have an all stock 1985 fox, and am having trouble with clearance issues. I do not have a lift or cherry picker, and am working only with Jack Stands and a 14.5" max height dolly Jack.
Will this mod work on the 4 cyl too?? Wasn't sure sine the mounting brackets are different. Thanks!
Can you connect the new power wire directly to the battery post?
Question lmr so do i connect the 4 gage to th solenoid batt side or starter????? Thanks
Connect it to the starter solenoid. If you have any other questions, please give us a call at 1-866-507-3786
Thank do i leve the blck /org cables with the 4 gage cable thankssssss
Hook it on the battery side only.
The other side will do NOTHING.
I bought this kit, but for some reason when I was crimping the last ring terminal on the blk/orange wire, it didn't hold. What do I do now? I looked in the bag, but there were only 2 provided, not even a single extra one... What to do now?
Wal Mart or any local auto parts store will have packs of ring terminals. I'd suggest keeping some of these on-hand. You never know when you might need them. -Landan
I would like to know what would be a good afternarket alternator bracket? to use with this setup?
Newbie questions: what do you use to cut to allow the bigger alternator space? Angle grinder? Also what's the best tool to use to heat the connector during re-wiring? Soldering torch?
Yes, an angle grinder or dremel will work. And anything that gives off high amount of heat will work.
can u remove the old wire harness
What.if I put a 370a alt in my foxbody , without any aftermarket upgrades which are soon to come after the alt swap, will 370a be to much for a stock vehicle
My old power wires are bad. Why is it necessary to connect them to alternator as well?
Those orange and black wires DO NOT need to be connected or shouldn't,thats what the big 4 gauge wire is for,people keep fencing about this and when their car is on fire they will remember these words.
Some people say their stock gauge wont work if those are not connected, thats BS,i have a 89 and a 91 and both of my gauges work fine,those wires used to carry all the juice on the old puny alternator but when you go much Bigger thats why you have to use the bigger wire and not use those smaller ones (black and orange), the wire that runs your gauge is the green wire thats part of the plug that goes into the new alternator, you have 2 plugs going into your new alternator,a big plug with 2 wires and a small plug with one wire.
Not sure why this is so hard to understand (i dont mean you) but some people on here that insist on using those black and orange wires,its kinda like making your Mustang a 10 second quarter mile car and still use those brakes that came with it,not gonna work,you are going to need big Cobra brakes,lol
What is just the whole wiring kit with out the alternator is there a part # so I can get the new alternator plug wires in the 4g wire with the fuse link!!!
Here's a link to all our wiring and additional hardware - lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Alternators-Components?TH-cam&ProductLinksᒁ
i have install said alternator and it appears to become white hot on the pulley? is thia normal?
So I got a 5.0 91 lx and I'm going to put an aftermarket stereo in it. Do I need to do an upgrade?
What size is the fuse on the 4 gauge wire? would a 200 amp circuit breaker work, or would it be too high? I'm doing this myself.
Will this kit also work for an 89 Bronco with the 5.0? The mounting bolts on my alternator roughly measure 7” from center to center. I’m considering purchasing this kit instead of doing a 3G alt conversión because your kit comes with everything needed. I’m upgrading to dual electric fans and have an audio system and my stock 2G alternator gave out.
Does it matter where the fuse goes?
where do I buy the power wire?
can I make my 85 work with this kit, I want to remove the external regulator and go with the 86 to 93 style. I saw you have a kit for my 85 but it seems to me that it still usews the external regulator. maybe im wrong HELP
I did this to my 82 GT. No need for external regulator. Just hook up the field wire in the wire harness, white stator wire to positive lead that goes to battery side of starter soleniod, and bam. I used 4 gauge wire and 175 amp fuse from alternator to the solenoid.
+Brandon Smith I have a 85 mustang and I want to do this is there a place on the net I can get a wiring diagram or all I do is take just the white wire only to the solenoid and change the plug ends
That's exactly what I did too. The set up in this video did not work on my car and in fact fried a couple fuses trying to use the factory wire as described. 4 guage with 175 amp fuse from alternator to Solenoid is the way to go.
I put this whole kit in my Mustang and now I am getting no charge when at idle and all the accessories are running. Should I check the wiring before I send it back? And where do I do a warranty return?
Hey there,
Give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 or email us with the link below and a customer care representative can assist you with that! lmr.com/contact
on the 1986 model its the 1st year for the integrated voltage regulator and alternator as one 😧
How about fox mustangs equipped with external voltage regulator? Can it be eliminated?
What year is the car? I'm assuming 1979-1985? If that's the case, we have a specific video and alternator kits for those year ranges. Check out the links below. Thanks. -Landan
Alternators: lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Alternators-Components
79-85 1G to 3G Alternator Conversion Video: th-cam.com/video/p6m9pP4wXrw/w-d-xo.html
So the issue i am having with my 1989 notchback automatic is: I have this alternator upgrade AND a new high torque starter. both cables are going to the starter solenoid and my car doesn't seem to be charging correctly, At idle, the battery gauge slowly drops down along with the idle until it stalls. I restart it and keep my pedal pushed alittle to keep the idle higher so it won't stall again, while driving it seems to be fine. It's almost like the starter solenoid doesn't have enough juice to keep up with powering the car.
I had that issue, changed the IAC (Idle Air Control Valve) and it stopped doing that. Hope that helps
@@41fivin_sam72 did you use a ford motorcraft IAC or aftermarket one? I am thinking of trying the motorcraft one.
Bought a SR performance 3G 130 amp on American Muscle. All I got was alternator no other hardware pretty damn pissed. My stock has the 3 spade design and The new one is 1. Was so confused so I have to get what LMR kit they offer?
Do you unplug the old power wire that the new 4 gauge wire replaces and if so why zip tie it down following the old power wire and not just remove it?
i didn't hear the directions stating to remove anything. I am assuming you just leave it, shouldn't hurt anything
What do you do with the white/black wire harness that’s on the car???
Cut it down, cover it with heat shrink, and wrap the harness. -Landan
Jonathans a badass
I just finished installing it and I was hooking up the battery and when I went to go put the positive battery cable the car almost took off on me. Is this a wireing issue? I know I for sure hooked it up right it's very simple.
Something isn't right. Check over your wiring again. By "took off", you mean the vehicle started and moved under its own power? -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration thank you landan! Turns out the big fat cable that needs to be connected to the starter solenoid. I put it on the wrong side of the starter solenoid. lol
@@natchoh5point0 Sure thing! Glad you got it figured out. -Landan
There seems to be differing opinions about the black/orange wires with the power wire upgrade. Is it safe or recommended to attach those two along with the 4 gauge wire to the alternator. I am installing the 130 amp alternator in my fox.
Leaving the factory black/orange power wires connected along with installing a 4G wire upgrade has been the suggested method for a long time. We've recommended leaving them attached since we released our kits. If you're installing one of an SVE kit, the installation procedure must be performed as stated, or the warranty will be voided. Hope this helps! -Landan
Thanks Landan. I wanted clear confirmation and you gave that. That helps some of the DiYers out there like me.
You’re welcome! Let us know if you have any additional questions. -Landan
What are the black wires for?
Do I need a bigger serpentine belt for this install or is the stock belt still going to fit?
A stock length belt will work with this upgrade. -Landan
@@latemodelrestoration Are you sure? Because my stock belt will not go over the pulley on this Sve alternator. Please help.
Has anybody got the answer yet, Do you need a different size belt? I’m assuming not since he said “reinstall THE belt.”
Purchased the 130 amp kit with a 4g power wire. Installed it and it works great, but I had noticed the 4g wire got a little on the warm side and some for the rubber melted at the ends. Can you tell me why this had happened and should I be worried? Thanks....
Double check all of your connections and make sure nothing is loose or near hot components. -Landan
I recently purchased a 200 amp from you guys. Am I going to have to purchase a bigger belt? If so, do you guys have a part number?
I followed this to a T, and when I hooked my battery posts back up. Smoke filled the sky, what did I do wrong? Is the alternator now no good? Would you say the wires that were melted no good also?
Mike,
Contact our customer service @ 1-866-507-3786 and one of our staff can help you with this issue.
Mine did the same thing. Smoke was coming from my starter solenoid. I ended up melting the cover off one of the wires. I ended up disconnecting the 2 black wires from the alternator and it seems to be fine.
My new problem is when I start the car the starter says engaged. I never had this problem before the upgrade. Could somebody help me please? Could the power being generated from the alternator be keeping the starter on? Thank you in advance! - Jeff
I like the concept. I don't see on the site, does this work with the 3.8L V6?
We offer more alternators for the 3.8L V6. Please email us at customerservice@lmr.com or give us a call at 1-866-507-3786 for inquiries. Thanks! - Jude H. - Social Media/Events Coordinator
Hey do you know why my 91 5.0 has a voltage regulator?
How do you wire this to a 67 mustang?
Could someone tell me the name of the tool to cut the bracket and also the heating tool for the butt connector so I can go buy them thanks
A grinder and a lighter
Will this work for a 1988 2.3?
What would happen if you didn’t use the upgraded power wire
Hi James, you won't be able to use the full potential power that the alternator creates when running it on your car. We strongly recommend installing the power wire.
But what about the bracket that came with it? You never covered that part. I have instructions that are probably 10 years old and it doesn't say anything about the bracket. That's just lazy management.
To better assist you, what bracket and instructions are you referring to?
@@latemodelrestoration The SVE 130 amp alternator. You can either cut a piece of the original or replace the bracket. I was able to switch it but it was trickier than I thought. I think the trick with the bracket is put in the left side bolts in first loosely and than put the two smaller bolts off to the right last.
@@JMac85X This video was released prior to us offering the replacement bracket that already has the extra clearance. Thanks for understanding and we're glad you got it installed.
@@latemodelrestoration What belt size do I need? The original isn't long enough due to the pulley being larger than the stock alternator.
Why is there no kit for the 87-93 cars? All I see are kits for 79-86 cars currently.
Thanks for the comment. Click the link below and scroll down. You'll see the other options. -Landan
lmr.com/products/79-93-Mustang-Alternators-Components
@@latemodelrestoration good looking out. I couldn't find one for the life of me. I was searching 3g upgrade and it wouldnt pull those up.
What the point of leaving the stock 4 gauge wire and zip tying the new one together? Why not just remove it?
Convenience.
If you hook up both wires they will carry the load of a 2 gauge wire.
Is it bad to have a high amp alternator like this one if the car has stock electronics (for now)? Also do we need to upgrade to a bigger battery as well?
I know you asked this 2 months ago but just wanted to say, i did this conversion 10 years ago, best thing i ever did!! i was looking for some info on something and ran into this video and saw your question.
That dude didn't even answer this question, smh
will it be the end of the world if i dont put the power wire upgrade?
Only when the too small wire melts.
but but what about the original amp voltmeter does it still work ??? after all this?
Yes, no changes.