WOW ! Exactly the video I need ! Nobody could explain where the 3rd wire went for me. Now I know (I think) 3G means 3 wire ? Am I glad I found you ! You not only know stuff, you explain it well for a novice. Thank you. Everyone said to just get the chevy 1 wire but I want to learn. If it doesn't work, I want to know why. I have a 42 Ford 3/4 ton that just stopped starting and a 66 289 with a 3 wire alternator that won't charge my battery. Now I can at least fix the 66. Thank you so much. I battled with the 66 3 wire for over a year.
Yippee ! Thanks to you, I have the problem that has plagued me since 2017 solved and TODAY, I just got my 560 Ohm resister from where you posted the link. Can't thank you enough and bonus, it isn't just fixed, now I understand how and why ! Added bonus ! To buy the resister, like you, I had to buy a pack of 100 but because they're made in China, I will probably end up having to use them all ! hahaha. Thank you again so very, very much Dan.
I installed a 3G alternator into a 70 Ford. The dash has an alternator warning light. The only issue I notice is the light is dim with the engine off. The alternator works perfectly. It just that the warning light is dim when it's on just like in the video. I'm pretty sure the light should be as bright as the rest of the red warning lights. It's pretty hard to see if the light is on in full sun. Is there a way to make the bulb bright?
Hope you can help. I have a 1991 mercury sable with the 3G alternator, It has been intermittently charging. So i get a block of wood and hammer and give the alternator a wack. I think the brushes are low or sticking. This works for several months, today i accidentally shorted one of the regulator bolts to ground, some sparks flew. OK now the weird part, It still charges but the dash light will not go out. Any Ideas? I'm stumped.
Great video. Thanks for no stupid over powering background music. Did a great job showing personality and not.. blah.. blah....zzzzz blah.. zz. Subbed just for appreciation and see what else you create!
What is the resistor for? I put 3g alternators and I just hook the green wire to 12v switched, no light, no resistor. I have not had problems on any I have did like that
I am hoping to rewire my ride and I know I can buy a harness custom made from numerous places. Would it be feasible to think a novice like me could do it myself without buying a readymade harness ? I learned so far to use the right type of wire, not just the right gauge and I know to create loops for front, middle and rear. And I should zip-tie all the wires every few inches and if I can buy labeled wire or mark the wires where they run to. Or should I just get the harness ? Hmm ? Do you do a video of this type of thing ?
Very good info. I have removed 100% of Fords wiring from my SN mustang and install Holley Terminator. I understand the Green wire, white wire. My question is - Do I need to wire the yellow wire to battery 12 volt circuit?
Typically yes. The yellow wire is 12v battery positive. From the factory it goes from pin "a" on the 3 pin connector to the main battery cable terminal on the alternator
So I can put a spade on yellow wire and run it direct to the same post as the 4g charging cable. Then put the resistor in line with green/red wire and attached to switched 12V under the hood somewhere ?
Yup. On the 3g alternator just jump the yellow wire to the hot post on the alternator and then install the resistor inline on the green wire with a 12 volt ignition only source going to it. The resistor imitates the light bulb resistance of a dummy light
Hi I got a 1985 mercury cougar and I did that the green wire from my power master 37759 alternator going to a motorcraft square regulator that is installed from dealer on the green and yellow wire with the transistor in between and it charges up to 14.1 but I still getting the battery light on can you help me how to get rid off the battery light also I have 2000 sound system and when I’m driving the parking light dims i thought it doesn’t dim with a sound system while driving
Where exactly is the "ignition positive" located? My wiring guide says to wire the green to a "Switched 12v source" in my Ranger but I just can't wrap my head around where exactly I need to splice/connect to.
I'm not sure of the exact point on your truck but basically it's a circuit that only has voltage with the key on. You can go to your fuse panel with a meter or test light and see what fuses have power with the key on only and then use one of those circuits
I havent had the issue before. Is it warm even after it has been sitting still with the engine off. Also, make sure the wire with the resistor is key on power only .
I STILL can't sort it out ! The green wire is clear. It goes to my ignition from the ;letter 'I' on my regulator. That leaves A, S & F on my regulator. I think the letter 'A' on my regulator goes to the large upper connection on the back of my alternator. That leaves S & F on my regulator but I can't figure out where they go on the alternator. I THINK the 'S' on my regulator goes to the terminal removed from the other 3 on the back of the alternator. That leaves 'F' on my regulator and I think that goes to the small terminal closest to center on the alternator. Am I correct with any or all of these ? I have been at this for so long !!! (years) Running on battery.
I have a 96 ford bronco the alt wont charge and batt light coming on unless i prob it with a test light. Im guessing the bulb in the test light is turning it on in the dash somehow. Anyway ive changed the bulb with no luck. It all started when i changed the speedometer out. I just need her back on the road again. If i were to add a resistor to bypass the bulb on the dash id just connect one end to the green wire and the other end to what?
One end to the green wire and the other to a 12 volt ignition source. Not battery power. Must be 12 volts with key on only. You can try it with a temporary wire like we did in the video to make sure it resolves your issue
@@greasyboykustoms thank you. I tried to connect the green wire to 12 volts just to test it. Alt still didn't start charging. I'm taking it in to get it tested. At this point I'm hoping it's just a bad alt out of the box. 😩
so if a person were to tap into that green wire at the alternator in order to get a 12v key on signal for an electric radiator fan, would that explain why the battery light comes on when the vehicle reaches operating temp? Also might be why the battery light stays on and causes the truck to die at idle? asking for a friend :D
Your verbal description at 2:45 is not consistent with the diagram. The diagram is correct. The green wire is not grounded. If connected as you described it, the lamp would just be on anytime the ignition switch was on and not go out. So you connected it correctly to get the results demonstrated. You just described it incorrectly. The internal regulator electronics detects current flowing to the battery (charging). and turns off a transistor inside the regulator that is grounding the lamp, to turn the lamp off. If there is a failure in the system, and the current to the battery stops flowing the transistor will be turned on to light the lamp to indicate the failure condition to the driver.. That is, of course, assuming that the failure in not the regulator electronics itself, which rarely fail, but can fail in a number of ways that can cause confusion over what is going on..
If you don't mind sir I have a question that green lead that you hook the light bulb to has a 20 amp fuse I'm thinking you need a resistor that will handle 20 amps that seems reasonable the one you are using would not just a thought
yes you do have to have one or the other. if not the alternator will not charge. as far as the fuse for the circuit , . i have not had any troubles in the past , but it is definitely a very good thought and one i will research into . thanks .
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I don't know why you only have a few comments this video is the best one out. Direct and simple. Thank you my brother!
Man I’ve been looking for a video like this for a while! I put a 94 mustang engine into a 70 maverick and I’ve had no charging. Thanks man!
WOW ! Exactly the video I need ! Nobody could explain where the 3rd wire went for me. Now I know (I think) 3G means 3 wire ? Am I glad I found you ! You not only know stuff, you explain it well for a novice. Thank you. Everyone said to just get the chevy 1 wire but I want to learn. If it doesn't work, I want to know why. I have a 42 Ford 3/4 ton that just stopped starting and a 66 289 with a 3 wire alternator that won't charge my battery. Now I can at least fix the 66. Thank you so much. I battled with the 66 3 wire for over a year.
No 3g is for generation it's the 3rd style Ford produced
This was a Great video thank you for sharing your knowledge my friend
Nice and clear, great job.
I was about to order new alternator, you saved me 500cad man thank you so much!
Yippee ! Thanks to you, I have the problem that has plagued me since 2017 solved and TODAY, I just got my 560 Ohm resister from where you posted the link. Can't thank you enough and bonus, it isn't just fixed, now I understand how and why ! Added bonus ! To buy the resister, like you, I had to buy a pack of 100 but because they're made in China, I will probably end up having to use them all ! hahaha. Thank you again so very, very much Dan.
Hey James. Glad it fixed your problem. Thanks for watching
Great video thanks!!!!
Why do you need the resistor or lightbulb? Can you just wire directly to the alternator without the light or resistor?
The alternator needs that circuit to excite it to charge. It's not a voltage trigger. It's a trigger based on resistance.
@@greasyboykustoms so would a balace resistor do the same for like one you use on a 12v coil?
Excellent work Man
I installed a 3G alternator into a 70 Ford. The dash has an alternator warning light. The only issue I notice is the light is dim with the engine off. The alternator works perfectly. It just that the warning light is dim when it's on just like in the video. I'm pretty sure the light should be as bright as the rest of the red warning lights. It's pretty hard to see if the light is on in full sun. Is there a way to make the bulb bright?
Hope you can help. I have a 1991 mercury sable with the 3G alternator, It has been intermittently charging. So i get a block of wood and hammer and give the alternator a wack. I think the brushes are low or sticking. This works for several months, today i accidentally shorted one of the regulator bolts to ground, some sparks flew. OK now the weird part, It still charges but the dash light will not go out. Any Ideas? I'm stumped.
Great video. Thanks for no stupid over powering background music. Did a great job showing personality and not.. blah.. blah....zzzzz blah.. zz. Subbed just for appreciation and see what else you create!
Awesome. Thanks !!!
What is the resistor for? I put 3g alternators and I just hook the green wire to 12v switched, no light, no resistor. I have not had problems on any I have did like that
Doing this on a 63 ford with a gen light. Do I still need to wire in the resistor if I plan on running a volt meter?
If you are using a gen light ,you do not need the resistor. The light bulbs works in place of the resistor
@@greasyboykustoms As he says in the video and the diagram it’s a good idea in case the gen light goes out because it won’t charge without it.
I am hoping to rewire my ride and I know I can buy a harness custom made from numerous places. Would it be feasible to think a novice like me could do it myself without buying a readymade harness ? I learned so far to use the right type of wire, not just the right gauge and I know to create loops for front, middle and rear. And I should zip-tie all the wires every few inches and if I can buy labeled wire or mark the wires where they run to. Or should I just get the harness ? Hmm ? Do you do a video of this type of thing ?
Very good info. I have removed 100% of Fords wiring from my SN mustang and install Holley Terminator. I understand the Green wire, white wire. My question is - Do I need to wire the yellow wire to battery 12 volt circuit?
Typically yes. The yellow wire is 12v battery positive. From the factory it goes from pin "a" on the 3 pin connector to the main battery cable terminal on the alternator
So I can put a spade on yellow wire and run it direct to the same post as the 4g charging cable. Then put the resistor in line with green/red wire and attached to switched 12V under the hood somewhere ?
Yup. On the 3g alternator just jump the yellow wire to the hot post on the alternator and then install the resistor inline on the green wire with a 12 volt ignition only source going to it. The resistor imitates the light bulb resistance of a dummy light
Hi I got a 1985 mercury cougar and I did that the green wire from my power master 37759 alternator going to a motorcraft square regulator that is installed from dealer on the green and yellow wire with the transistor in between and it charges up to 14.1 but I still getting the battery light on can you help me how to get rid off the battery light also I have 2000 sound system and when I’m driving the parking light dims i thought it doesn’t dim with a sound system while driving
Where exactly is the "ignition positive" located? My wiring guide says to wire the green to a "Switched 12v source" in my Ranger but I just can't wrap my head around where exactly I need to splice/connect to.
I'm not sure of the exact point on your truck but basically it's a circuit that only has voltage with the key on. You can go to your fuse panel with a meter or test light and see what fuses have power with the key on only and then use one of those circuits
Well I did this and it worked but… my alternator is warm all of the time…. Any thoughts?
I havent had the issue before. Is it warm even after it has been sitting still with the engine off. Also, make sure the wire with the resistor is key on power only .
@@greasyboykustoms all good. I was having another issue. Just wanted to triple check. Everything is good now.
Can you make a diagram of the light bulb one
I STILL can't sort it out ! The green wire is clear. It goes to my ignition from the ;letter 'I' on my regulator. That leaves A, S & F on my regulator. I think the letter 'A' on my regulator goes to the large upper connection on the back of my alternator. That leaves S & F on my regulator but I can't figure out where they go on the alternator. I THINK the 'S' on my regulator goes to the terminal removed from the other 3 on the back of the alternator. That leaves 'F' on my regulator and I think that goes to the small terminal closest to center on the alternator. Am I correct with any or all of these ? I have been at this for so long !!! (years) Running on battery.
I have a 96 ford bronco the alt wont charge and batt light coming on unless i prob it with a test light. Im guessing the bulb in the test light is turning it on in the dash somehow. Anyway ive changed the bulb with no luck. It all started when i changed the speedometer out. I just need her back on the road again. If i were to add a resistor to bypass the bulb on the dash id just connect one end to the green wire and the other end to what?
One end to the green wire and the other to a 12 volt ignition source. Not battery power. Must be 12 volts with key on only. You can try it with a temporary wire like we did in the video to make sure it resolves your issue
@@greasyboykustoms thank you. I tried to connect the green wire to 12 volts just to test it. Alt still didn't start charging. I'm taking it in to get it tested. At this point I'm hoping it's just a bad alt out of the box. 😩
so if a person were to tap into that green wire at the alternator in order to get a 12v key on signal for an electric radiator fan, would that explain why the battery light comes on when the vehicle reaches operating temp? Also might be why the battery light stays on and causes the truck to die at idle? asking for a friend :D
Absolutely
Hi i wonder if you can help me. My light goes off like yours when the engine runs but does not charge at all. what could be the problem
Typically it would just be a failed alternator. Has it been replaced ?
Your verbal description at 2:45 is not consistent with the diagram. The diagram is correct. The green wire is not grounded. If connected as you described it, the lamp would just be on anytime the ignition switch was on and not go out. So you connected it correctly to get the results demonstrated. You just described it incorrectly. The internal regulator electronics detects current flowing to the battery (charging). and turns off a transistor inside the regulator that is grounding the lamp, to turn the lamp off. If there is a failure in the system, and the current to the battery stops flowing the transistor will be turned on to light the lamp to indicate the failure condition to the driver.. That is, of course, assuming that the failure in not the regulator electronics itself, which rarely fail, but can fail in a number of ways that can cause confusion over what is going on..
If you don't mind sir I have a question that green lead that you hook the light bulb to has a 20 amp fuse I'm thinking you need a resistor that will handle 20 amps that seems reasonable the one you are using would not just a thought
It also says optional do you even need the light bulb or the resistor?
yes you do have to have one or the other. if not the alternator will not charge. as far as the fuse for the circuit , . i have not had any troubles in the past , but it is definitely a very good thought and one i will research into . thanks .