Hi Matt, great video. I've done flush baseboards on one of my projects using Trim-Tex 1/2" reveal bead. Turned out amazing. Takes a lot of extra work and effort for a modern finish like this. But the finished product puts a home or business above the rest. IMO. I also ended up putting insulation in between each stud where the flush baseboards are. In order to reduce and minimize any sound transfer from room to room. Take care, -Paul
i rebuilt my bedroom in a totally trimless design. was literally one of the most frustrating and time consuming things of my life. but it looks SO GOOD when its done lol
Nice job Matt. I put reglets in my house at the bottom of drywall where it meets the concrete floors and regret not having the finish carpenters install it. The drywallers really struggled to get clean joints and complained about it the whole time! I had to give them lessons in mitering joints!
As an experienced drywaller/taper I would not use any metal bead like this, they are much more likely to pop than any other type of bead. Besides that if you want the most crisp edge buy Fast Mask from trim tech. You put it on and coat it and then it had a peel away strip on the edge for when you are done. It will keep all of the mud off of your door casing and windows as well as leave a perfect clean edge.
Nice. I have a house coming up next month I will be trimming like this. Renovations so boarders have been in and trimmed all the drywall up 7” and took the drywall back to the next closest stud. I’ll hang the doors with 1-1/2” jambs with the stops machined in the jambs then the baseboards. Tapers will be adding a 1/2x1/2”reveal. Can’t wait to do this one
If you look at the other video he did that he mentions in the early part of the video you can see finished casing and baseboards like he is talking about in this video.
oh yes! By the way, this jamb detail is very popular used in UK and looks beautyfull. This alu trim is called 'shadow gap trim' it usually is done by dryliners( extremely experienced, of course). Also I have done it in different colors and looks amazing.
We hadn't heard of this metal bead product so achieved similar result by rabbeting outer edge of jamb for consistent reveal, then trimming drywall with standard metal bead.
Probably looks good, if you could see a finished example...Mistake number one hire a producer that knows the sequences of a dynamic fully completed video. When demonstrating “how to video” you must incorporate the image of the finished subject being talked about, it is imperative or you have just wasted every bodies time.. Muding /sanding and painting must be a disaster trying the protect the wood, painting the 1/4gap between the wood jamb and visuals of light passing through the gap when the door is closed??? All questions you haven’t addressed in the video.
"it is imperative"...shut up dude go do your own builds then take the weekend to make how-to videos bc Matt is a full time GC. Matt, love your videos and am sending this clip to my architect for a build up in North Carolina. Go Longhorns.
Thanks Matt! Your first video on the flush base got us going. It was tough explaining to guys that like to put base over drywall. We did a reveal throughout our renovation. It's not perfect, but I think the overall look turned out nice ... even if it's not perfect. We did use the plasic Trim-Tex F Reveal. In all not an easy technique and it defintely takes some extra pre-planning and coordination, but worth it for the modern look.
I have done about a dozen houses with either this exact detail or something very similar. It is a total pain in the but to make these look good. Lots of coordination, craftsmanship, and attention to detail are needed. Architects who design these houses get cursed at daily by the guys who build them...
Jeff Meagher I've done 2 houses with this detail in metal and one house in plastic. Plastic fry reglet is sooooo much easier. This channel is only semi pro. 5/8 drywall and 5/8 trim, when you add the fry reglet you're now proud of the trim and looks so bad
I have some qusstions and I can't find a blog or anything on your website on this topic. I'd like to see this from start to finish> It would be great to see a section.. Where do they stop the drywall in this installation? The trimmer stud? How is the door frame installed, shims etc. if you don't have the trim to cover this? How is the reveal set? It looks like you are using a different casing bead for the base, with a flange that goes downward as well --or...? Thanks.
Greatest thing about this video is that he's going into detail about how precise and flush everything's going to be, and all the attention to detail that is going to make it look amazing. Then some electrical guy writes "fart fan location" on the drywall. Lol
The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club. The second rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club. But seriously.... I love the videos.
I did a lot of reglet on a college sports complex. It was all good until I had to trim a small ceiling hanging over a heated indoor pool. There was a 1 ¼" reveal against structural steel all the way around 3 sides of the ceiling. This would have been great, but prior to building the light guage framing for the drywall, it was covered in vapor barrier and sealed with a putty. This was all 15 feet in the air on am uneven floor. Fun fun!it was all sealed where the L on the bead was sealed with a putty which made for some really difficult compound miter joints on the corners because the sealer would not allow for the reglet to sit flat where it wanted to be. Any other issue with it I could have just cut back the drywall where needed to maintain the reveal and used a true 45. Do yourself a favor if your ever building something like this that needs to be water tight. Put the reglet in first. Then your sealing compound once the reglet is installed. This was not a fun job. Everyone was breathing down my neck to get it done, and they wanted me to remove the sealant to make the job easy. Well that's all great until you start having mold issues in a 15 foot high ceiling in a heavily used facility. I took my time, I let the contractors think they knew what was up and blow their hot air, figured and cut the compound miters necessary To make the reglet fit tight without removing the sealant. In the end, it wasn't spec'd out for level 5 and it should have been, they came behind me and sprayed a high gloss epoxy finish on it. All this makes me wish I were a contractor instead of a drywaller.
correct me if I'm wrong, but that outlet is close to the floor- I thought it was UBC to be 12" , but then what about floor outlets? maybe dedicated circuits ? anyone?
Senior Engineer taught me early on as a young EIT: the only code that matters is the interpretation of the inspector of the AHJ! NFPA 70 NEC is surprisingly silent on outlet and switch height. The IRC incorporates the NEC, so in Michigan: Michigan Residential Building Code -> International Code Counsel (IRC) -> NEC -210.52 -> 6" horizontally along any wall to an outlet. Height not specified.
Have you ever had problem with settlements btw the jam and rough opening? with a 1/4" reveal, even an 1/8" settlement would show. I always want to do my next house like this but worry about this being a problem down the road.
Hi mat I’m planing to remodel my house like this I wonder how thick the door frame needs to be ? 2x4 + 2 Sheetrock 5/8 Do I need to add something for the plaster finish on this beats so I’ll finish real flush ??
im a finish drywall taper these trim look awsome when done right from my experience they dont want to paid the premium price to get the experience drywall installer and finisher then never turn out
Yeah - he's strangely SILENT on the outrageous HEADACHE for the taper! There's a RIDICULOUS amount of very tedious work to tape and finish this nightmare - without getting mud where you don't want it (primarily keeping it all out of that 1/4" reveal is NON-trivial, plus keeping those door frames clean, and several other things -- how about disclosing the ADDITIONAL cost of the drywall! The hanging would have been quite a bit more, but the finishing will be THROUGH THE ROOF! (or as you suggest they settle for a slop artist dumb enough to give a BID) Even in Tejas, where I've seen prices so low I HAVE to assume the dripping derriere labor, this would be FAR too much busy-work to pull off. Wouldn't do that in MY house - don't care HOW "clean" (or whatever other seemingly desirable adjective you want to apply) the look is. SImply NOT WORTH IT!
Jay Murphy it about 4 times the price of regular drywall install yes there a lot more prep work and compound materials too but the builder do save on trim finish cost and materials
@@palewriter1856 Do you think the owners of this incredibly expensive house give a crap about how much of a headache this is for the taper? They're paying premium prices for a premium end result. This isn't something Joe Average would have in his house.
@@SgtZima Owners giving a crap isn't the only driving reality, genius. Having money to burn doesn't necessarily mean that you go about a job ass-backwards - although those situations exist (I could show you one a few miles from my house - owner can't make up his mind from one day to another, control freak who knows squat about building, and hires everyone on a T&M basis, drives everyone nuts) the fact remains, if you're savvy in business you know enough to hire the best you can find, then LISTEN to their expertise and give them what they need to do their finest work. But thanks for the "life lesson."
@@palewriter1856 You're on a TH-cam channel that focuses on high-end modern builds ranting about the amount of labour and money involved to do something like this and how Matt should have disclosed this for some reason. Anybody watching realizes this is expensive, time consuming work.
My 1940's house has rolled built in edges for door frame. The plaster lays on top of door frames. I wanted to dupl it when i moved some doors but could not find the moulding to do it. Even exterior door frames are locked into this. In my case the edging was nailed to the frame and then drywall/plaster installed.
How did you protect your doors during construction from damage and moisture? I Will be building in the Texas climate as well. Thanks for the great idea Matt!
Is that reglet around the base a different version? It almost looks like it’s shaped like letter T. Also what material is that behind that corner bread. The area between the baseboard and the drywall reglet? There appears to be some type of finish between there.
When doing the “no-trim” look, how wide would you need to order the jamb? Do you stick to the same jamb width you would when using casing or does it need to be adjusted?
so the 1/4" reveal is part of the reglet? I didn't see that on the profile, are there special pieces for the door surrounds? Also, love the videos, keep up the great work!
Matt Metcalf there is probably a rabbet on the back side of the jamb that the metal sits against. It is best to run the base and metal so they can be straightened prior to drywall and use a channel on the base, L metal won't work. If all you want is a shadow line this detail is simple. If you also want the wall flush with the trim the detail becomes a huge pain and takes more time. Lots of shimming.
Great, informative video! Wow - I wish these types of videos were available before I had started my cottage project 🙄. I’ve been using various Fry Reglet trim extrusions for reveals as well as wall transitions (between dry wall and interior wood siding), with very little useful reference material out there. I also couldn’t find any Drywallers with any experience using these materials, so I’ve ended up dealing with it all myself 🤨. Your hung drywall looks beautiful 👍. Symmetric screw locations and clean lines, etc. You can tell that they care!
I hate using Fry Reglit. The aluminum is so thick. You have to cut it with a circular saw miter box. And the mud lip sticks out so far that it creates about a 3/16" skirting out of the wall along the base. So in order to get a flat wall using the Z reveal (in this case DRMZ-625-25) you have to shim the entire wall out with double cardboard shims all except where the bead goes. There you do not shim, but bend the sheetrock in to accommodate the thickness of the mud lip of the bead. Also, the nail flange is maybe 3/4" as opposed to 1 1/8" or more for regular bead. I prefer using an L metal and a piece of flat baseboard with a 1/4" rabbet on top of the desired depth. But hey, that's just me. And oh- The trim carpenters install the bead? Since when? It is typically the drywall finishers.
Notice there are no shims around this door. The door is perfectly square. Walls built with dimensional lumber could have never achieved this level precision throughout the construction phase.. I am going to have to try Timberstrand studs. Great video Matt!
Beautiful concept Matt. I'm attempting to plan for this on my home we are building now. My questions is, what acts as the door stop here. It's hard to tell from the video but is there a rabbet along the back side of the jamb? This would give a different look from the backside with a smaller jamb face no?
If the carpenters, drywallers, painters don't see this in the drawing set and price their labour accordingly in the proposal phase of the contract then I guess all of the salty comments about this detail could be put to rest. Would like to see the drawing with this detail on it. Quick Q also, does the reveal at the jamb shown @2:40 lead to a small hole in the flooring? ie do you fill that with something? Thanks!
That's standard hight in Europe and if the code is related to flooding (only reason I can see such code would make any sense) , you can protect the circuit with an RCD.
Question: Can you give an accurate hard bid on a project like this? I had worked on a similar project with a mediocre frame which hadn't been punched out properly. Of course the architect wasn't grounded in reality and the builder and superintendent weren't really qualified for this caliber of build making the trim carpentry, let me say kindly...um...challenging (not my exact words during construction). Anyway with tighter control of the construction process approximately how much would this add to this segment of the bid?
My father was doing that in 1969 he was a drywall contractor from Dubuque Iowa everything he liked was Modern So when you say modern what year. And we call the bead that goes around the door L metal and it's no more expensive than regular metal the house that I grew up in was a totally trim free house.
Was I the only one SLIGHTLY distracted by Matt’s Black Eye and the Fart Fan graffiti’d by the Electrician in the bathroom behind him? Matt - did you get in a fight over a fart fan? :-)
sorry I like traditional trim.. what happens when the house shifts..you now seasonal..expansion/contraction.. cracks? might be nice look for a year or two..then how to fix? ripe it all out and start over? patch and repaint? and repeat? how does this hold up over years?
Glad he went through the whole video over-explaining the whole process only to not show the finished product. Thanks guy.
I was terrified you were gonna show a finished product. Thank you for sparing me.
Byron Welichko LMAO!!!!
Legendary
lol
😂😂😂😂😂
Hahahaha so true - why make a video and not show e end result. Idiots
Hi Matt, great video. I've done flush baseboards on one of my projects using Trim-Tex 1/2" reveal bead. Turned out amazing. Takes a lot of extra work and effort for a modern finish like this. But the finished product puts a home or business above the rest. IMO.
I also ended up putting insulation in between each stud where the flush baseboards are. In order to reduce and minimize any sound transfer from room to room. Take care, -Paul
i rebuilt my bedroom in a totally trimless design. was literally one of the most frustrating and time consuming things of my life. but it looks SO GOOD when its done lol
Headles Norseman How about a pic?
Nice job Matt. I put reglets in my house at the bottom of drywall where it meets the concrete floors and regret not having the finish carpenters install it. The drywallers really struggled to get clean joints and complained about it the whole time! I had to give them lessons in mitering joints!
@David Anewman fryreglet.com/
As an experienced drywaller/taper I would not use any metal bead like this, they are much more likely to pop than any other type of bead. Besides that if you want the most crisp edge buy Fast Mask from trim tech. You put it on and coat it and then it had a peel away strip on the edge for when you are done. It will keep all of the mud off of your door casing and windows as well as leave a perfect clean edge.
Nice. I have a house coming up next month I will be trimming like this.
Renovations so boarders have been in and trimmed all the drywall up 7” and took the drywall back to the next closest stud. I’ll hang the doors with 1-1/2” jambs with the stops machined in the jambs then the baseboards. Tapers will be adding a 1/2x1/2”reveal. Can’t wait to do this one
I love how your background has a builders/electricians scribbling about a “fart fan” on it.
Please show finished results.
If you look at the other video he did that he mentions in the early part of the video you can see finished casing and baseboards like he is talking about in this video.
th-cam.com/video/Xtev-uJsAWM/w-d-xo.html
FarmerSarducci USE URE IMAGINATION
Kriz lee p
oh yes!
By the way, this jamb detail is very popular used in UK and looks beautyfull. This alu trim is called 'shadow gap trim' it usually is done by dryliners( extremely experienced, of course). Also I have done it in different colors and looks amazing.
We hadn't heard of this metal bead product so achieved similar result by rabbeting outer edge of jamb for consistent reveal, then trimming drywall with standard metal bead.
Anyone else notice "fart fan" written on the wall at 0:54? Very professional!
Probably looks good, if you could see a finished example...Mistake number one hire a producer that knows the sequences of a dynamic fully completed video. When demonstrating “how to video” you must incorporate the image of the finished subject being talked about, it is imperative or you have just wasted every bodies time.. Muding /sanding and painting must be a disaster trying the protect the wood, painting the 1/4gap between the wood jamb and visuals of light passing through the gap when the door is closed??? All questions you haven’t addressed in the video.
"it is imperative"...shut up dude go do your own builds then take the weekend to make how-to videos bc Matt is a full time GC. Matt, love your videos and am sending this clip to my architect for a build up in North Carolina. Go Longhorns.
Looks like he and the producer fought about it. Builder lost and finished with black eye.
@Gary Miller You're an egg
How did you get that shiner under your eye??
Rough super bowl party...
Matt Risinger got into a fight?
Michael Schoonmaker Go Pats!!! Lol (Punch)
+MegaMetinMetin actually not a great story. Tripped on a lego set in the middle of the night. Face plant into dresser.
Matt Risinger ooo legooss, that must of woken you up :D
Thanks Matt! Your first video on the flush base got us going. It was tough explaining to guys that like to put base over drywall. We did a reveal throughout our renovation. It's not perfect, but I think the overall look turned out nice ... even if it's not perfect. We did use the plasic Trim-Tex F Reveal. In all not an easy technique and it defintely takes some extra pre-planning and coordination, but worth it for the modern look.
What is in or how do you build the 1/4" gap between the door frame and reglet. Is there something something inside there?
Charlie Hatfield shims I believe
It must be the regret covers the gap between the door frame and studs/edge of drywall. Otherwise you would see the door frame shines.
Explained here: fryreglet.com/downloads_shapefinder/ZRevealMolding.pdf
Thanks
yes dude is prob a drug dealer or perv put in body scanner..
I just discovered this amazing video . Do have a follow up showing the finished trims? Please let me know, thank you.
When the door frame was installed where are the shims? Would the 1/4" reveal not expose some of the shimming locations?
Any details how the mudding worked around door jam?
I have done about a dozen houses with either this exact detail or something very similar. It is a total pain in the but to make these look good. Lots of coordination, craftsmanship, and attention to detail are needed. Architects who design these houses get cursed at daily by the guys who build them...
Jeff Meagher
you read my mind bud! dealing with a finiky fartitect with a degree in spendgineering right now. loves to get his way or its the highway
Jeff Meagher I've done 2 houses with this detail in metal and one house in plastic. Plastic fry reglet is sooooo much easier. This channel is only semi pro. 5/8 drywall and 5/8 trim, when you add the fry reglet you're now proud of the trim and looks so bad
Jeff Meagher
You must charge way more for such detailed work right? if so how much more? 2x, 3x the price for detailed work?
Or you could use a Fry Reglet Minimalist Door Frame www.fryreglet.com
Jeff Meagher Oh cry me a river. track home workers have no Id about how colonial victorian etc fancy homes used to be
Worth noting that in addition to the edge profile trims, Fry Reglet also has a trimless door kit available for a true no-frame look.
+Tory Schulz thanks. Didn't know that
As a painter, I would love to shake the carpenter's hand who does this quality of work!
In the future, can you please do a start to finish video like this for exterior sheathing and insulation that you do on your houses?
I'll put that in the hopper, good video idea
That's gonna look incredible and super clean!
+Jeremy Eisenhut yeah baby!
Jeremy Eisenhut Crisp!
Wouldn't the plaster/mud crack over time if plastered over the 'raglet'?
Yes you’re right however if they put mesh tape over it then that’ll prevent the crack.
Reglet. And not if it's done properly.
Why does the carpenter have to be Finnish? Wouldn't a Swedish or Norwegian carpenter be just as skilled?
Rumpa Stiltskin - because when they used Polish contractors everything was shining...
😱
My Russian contractor might be the fastest I’ve ever seen.
Builder by day, MMA fighter at night.
Hi Matt, great video on detail. Is that a reference to Fart Fan behind you at 3:40? :)
Man never even thought any of this. Never heard of a reglet. So cool!
I have some qusstions and I can't find a blog or anything on your website on this topic. I'd like to see this from start to finish> It would be great to see a section.. Where do they stop the drywall in this installation? The trimmer stud? How is the door frame installed, shims etc. if you don't have the trim to cover this? How is the reveal set? It looks like you are using a different casing bead for the base, with a flange that goes downward as well --or...? Thanks.
Greatest thing about this video is that he's going into detail about how precise and flush everything's going to be, and all the attention to detail that is going to make it look amazing. Then some electrical guy writes "fart fan location" on the drywall. Lol
Matt: Can you direct me to the finished product? I'd love to see it finished out.
The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club. The second rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club. But seriously.... I love the videos.
Matt can you share how thick you went on this door jamb?
1 1/2"?
Thank you
I did a lot of reglet on a college sports complex. It was all good until I had to trim a small ceiling hanging over a heated indoor pool. There was a 1 ¼" reveal against structural steel all the way around 3 sides of the ceiling. This would have been great, but prior to building the light guage framing for the drywall, it was covered in vapor barrier and sealed with a putty. This was all 15 feet in the air on am uneven floor. Fun fun!it was all sealed where the L on the bead was sealed with a putty which made for some really difficult compound miter joints on the corners because the sealer would not allow for the reglet to sit flat where it wanted to be. Any other issue with it I could have just cut back the drywall where needed to maintain the reveal and used a true 45. Do yourself a favor if your ever building something like this that needs to be water tight. Put the reglet in first. Then your sealing compound once the reglet is installed. This was not a fun job. Everyone was breathing down my neck to get it done, and they wanted me to remove the sealant to make the job easy. Well that's all great until you start having mold issues in a 15 foot high ceiling in a heavily used facility. I took my time, I let the contractors think they knew what was up and blow their hot air, figured and cut the compound miters necessary To make the reglet fit tight without removing the sealant. In the end, it wasn't spec'd out for level 5 and it should have been, they came behind me and sprayed a high gloss epoxy finish on it.
All this makes me wish I were a contractor instead of a drywaller.
Either that or be more careful with the sealant and make sure it's not in the way of the reglet
As an aspiring architect, this channel is super cool! I've done remodels in the past and now I want trimless doors!
+Cameron Hemenway fantastic! Glad you are enjoying our content
correct me if I'm wrong, but that outlet is close to the floor- I thought it was UBC to be 12" , but then what about floor outlets? maybe dedicated circuits ? anyone?
jimi vee - wall mounted outlets- 12" off the floor, in floor outlet is in the floor, not in the baseboard
jimi vee good freaking point man thjs dude is living in some lala land
Senior Engineer taught me early on as a young EIT: the only code that matters is the interpretation of the inspector of the AHJ!
NFPA 70 NEC is surprisingly silent on outlet and switch height. The IRC incorporates the NEC, so in Michigan: Michigan Residential Building Code -> International Code Counsel (IRC) -> NEC -210.52 -> 6" horizontally along any wall to an outlet.
Height not specified.
Have you ever had problem with settlements btw the jam and rough opening? with a 1/4" reveal, even an 1/8" settlement would show. I always want to do my next house like this but worry about this being a problem down the road.
+William Wong not had that issue.
Nice shiner. Must've gotten into an argument with an old school traditional builder.
+95thousandroses that's fantastic. Yes. That's my new line!
How is the flooring installed? The gap between the base plate and flooring if not using trim? I'd love to see this installed.
It's going to look awesome!
(2 years later ...*crickets*)
What’s holding the 1/4” reveal? is it a spacer or the studs, It it treated or painted?
Hi mat I’m planing to remodel my house like this I wonder how thick the door frame needs to be ?
2x4 + 2 Sheetrock 5/8
Do I need to add something for the plaster finish on this beats so I’ll finish real flush ??
im a finish drywall taper these trim look awsome when done right from my experience they dont want to paid the premium price to get the experience drywall installer and finisher then never turn out
Yeah - he's strangely SILENT on the outrageous HEADACHE for the taper! There's a RIDICULOUS amount of very tedious work to tape and finish this nightmare - without getting mud where you don't want it (primarily keeping it all out of that 1/4" reveal is NON-trivial, plus keeping those door frames clean, and several other things -- how about disclosing the ADDITIONAL cost of the drywall! The hanging would have been quite a bit more, but the finishing will be THROUGH THE ROOF! (or as you suggest they settle for a slop artist dumb enough to give a BID) Even in Tejas, where I've seen prices so low I HAVE to assume the dripping derriere labor, this would be FAR too much busy-work to pull off. Wouldn't do that in MY house - don't care HOW "clean" (or whatever other seemingly desirable adjective you want to apply) the look is. SImply NOT WORTH IT!
Jay Murphy it about 4 times the price of regular drywall install yes there a lot more prep work and compound materials too but the builder do save on trim finish cost and materials
@@palewriter1856 Do you think the owners of this incredibly expensive house give a crap about how much of a headache this is for the taper? They're paying premium prices for a premium end result. This isn't something Joe Average would have in his house.
@@SgtZima Owners giving a crap isn't the only driving reality, genius. Having money to burn doesn't necessarily mean that you go about a job ass-backwards - although those situations exist (I could show you one a few miles from my house - owner can't make up his mind from one day to another, control freak who knows squat about building, and hires everyone on a T&M basis, drives everyone nuts) the fact remains, if you're savvy in business you know enough to hire the best you can find, then LISTEN to their expertise and give them what they need to do their finest work. But thanks for the "life lesson."
@@palewriter1856 You're on a TH-cam channel that focuses on high-end modern builds ranting about the amount of labour and money involved to do something like this and how Matt should have disclosed this for some reason. Anybody watching realizes this is expensive, time consuming work.
Just what i was looking for matt! thank you! now im back to the drawing table!
Great Video. I especially love the words on the wall Fart Fan!
What's going on inside that reveal? Is that just open to the wall cavity? Is there lumber back there?
My 1940's house has rolled built in edges for door frame. The plaster lays on top of door frames. I wanted to dupl it when i moved some doors but could not find the moulding to do it. Even exterior door frames are locked into this.
In my case the edging was nailed to the frame and then drywall/plaster installed.
Ok ! More to come in Pt. 2. ?
How did you protect your doors during construction from damage and moisture? I Will be building in the Texas climate as well.
Thanks for the great idea Matt!
enjoy your videos man, I'm a full time college student and full time carpenter but always got time to watch your videos during lunch
+Jony Negreros that's awesome! Thanks for watching
Matt Risinger hope you can come to the los Angeles build expo one day, i am going next week!
Great video Matt, adding it to my saved list of videos to reference back to when my house goes up.
How you get that trim under your right eye ?
Is that reglet around the base a different version? It almost looks like it’s shaped like letter T. Also what material is that behind that corner bread. The area between the baseboard and the drywall reglet? There appears to be some type of finish between there.
When doing the “no-trim” look, how wide would you need to order the jamb? Do you stick to the same jamb width you would when using casing or does it need to be adjusted?
what is happening inside the reveal? it looks like there is maybe an aluminum channel in there so you're not seeing the shims?
thats correct!
oh I see it now, part of the reglet. nice detail!
so the 1/4" reveal is part of the reglet? I didn't see that on the profile, are there special pieces for the door surrounds? Also, love the videos, keep up the great work!
Nevermind, I see that edge now.
Matt Metcalf there is probably a rabbet on the back side of the jamb that the metal sits against. It is best to run the base and metal so they can be straightened prior to drywall and use a channel on the base, L metal won't work. If all you want is a shadow line this detail is simple. If you also want the wall flush with the trim the detail becomes a huge pain and takes more time. Lots of shimming.
Love the vídeos Matt, the discussions it brings.
What is filling in most of the gap (but is recessed) between the metal trim piece and the jamb?
Great video. I learned a lot. You guys also write the word fart fan on the drywall in the background over your right shoulder at the end. Added bonus.
Isnt the z/ shadow bead similar to a cornerbead/ therefore the fillers job? I've never heard of a finish carpenter installing that?
Would have been nice to see final look.
Do you change the hinge backset or use a smaller hinge so the barrel does not protrude into the room as there is no casing around the door?
Great, informative video! Wow - I wish these types of videos were available before I had started my cottage project 🙄. I’ve been using various Fry Reglet trim extrusions for reveals as well as wall transitions (between dry wall and interior wood siding), with very little useful reference material out there. I also couldn’t find any Drywallers with any experience using these materials, so I’ve ended up dealing with it all myself 🤨. Your hung drywall looks beautiful 👍. Symmetric screw locations and clean lines, etc. You can tell that they care!
Do the outlets pass code? In TN they must be at least 18 inches from the finished floor
What do you use where the wood jamb and the aluminum channel meet? Do you put a thin bead of caulk?
Matt, what's between the door jamb and the rough opening.
Is there a wood spacer? Or a backer rod/sealant?
Or do you have an open gap?
Do the carpenters have to plane the base to the floors? I've never applied base on hardwood floors that didn't need to have that done
I hate using Fry Reglit. The aluminum is so thick. You have to cut it with a circular saw miter box. And the mud lip sticks out so far that it creates about a 3/16" skirting out of the wall along the base. So in order to get a flat wall using the Z reveal (in this case DRMZ-625-25) you have to shim the entire wall out with double cardboard shims all except where the bead goes. There you do not shim, but bend the sheetrock in to accommodate the thickness of the mud lip of the bead. Also, the nail flange is maybe 3/4" as opposed to 1 1/8" or more for regular bead. I prefer using an L metal and a piece of flat baseboard with a 1/4" rabbet on top of the desired depth. But hey, that's just me. And oh- The trim carpenters install the bead? Since when? It is typically the drywall finishers.
Great detail. Who built the jambs?
Notice there are no shims around this door. The door is perfectly square. Walls built with dimensional lumber could have never achieved this level precision throughout the construction phase.. I am going to have to try Timberstrand studs. Great video Matt!
Installed this in a commercial building in Houston Texas, my oh my it is such a pain. To get it perfect
Beautiful concept Matt. I'm attempting to plan for this on my home we are building now. My questions is, what acts as the door stop here. It's hard to tell from the video but is there a rabbet along the back side of the jamb? This would give a different look from the backside with a smaller jamb face no?
This sounds beautiful. It’s hard to imagine what the total overall cost would be at $150 a finish carpenter man-hour!
Ken Munoz wow. I'm undercharging
How much more time (in terms of percentage) does the modern trim look take? 30% more time?
Fred probably yes
Hello. I wanted to ask, how was the d-300 cut? do you have any special blade?
looks like the finisher went ahead and dotted that eye when you told him about the plans to use this system
RIght! Im like wtf is up with his eye!
I've been finishing for 17 years and that exactly what I thought 😄
This explains everything
What are the reglet part number for the corners, door frame, and baseboard?
How many regalets was that? I lost track looking at the shiner...?
any video tips on finishing a basement?
If the carpenters, drywallers, painters don't see this in the drawing set and price their labour accordingly in the proposal phase of the contract then I guess all of the salty comments about this detail could be put to rest. Would like to see the drawing with this detail on it. Quick Q also, does the reveal at the jamb shown @2:40 lead to a small hole in the flooring? ie do you fill that with something?
Thanks!
If only marketing on TH-cam were equal to a well-contracted house. . .
But how do you mud it after the wood is there? Or do you just have the frame up for show?
How does that outlet pass code?
That's exactly what I was wondering!
flowingstone1 - filmed on location ( perhaps Brazil ?)
It doesn’t... i was thinking the same thing, good call.
That's standard hight in Europe and if the code is related to flooding (only reason I can see such code would make any sense) , you can protect the circuit with an RCD.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
You can do some really interesting stuff like this by getting creative with the Schluter catalog. Tons of options.
Do jambs such as these have to be custom made on site or is there a readily available source for pre cut materials?
Hello.. What size Beech wood did you use for the door frame? Thanks
Great videos! What camera are you shooting with? Looks great.
+Cooper Carter thanks! We are shooting with a pair of Panasonic GH4's.
Question: Can you give an accurate hard bid on a project like this? I had worked on a similar project with a mediocre frame which hadn't been punched out properly. Of course the architect wasn't grounded in reality and the builder and superintendent weren't really qualified for this caliber of build making the trim carpentry, let me say kindly...um...challenging (not my exact words during construction). Anyway with tighter control of the construction process approximately how much would this add to this segment of the bid?
What Fry Reglet profile did you use here? I don't see it on the website.
i like the 1.5 inch door jambs. Are those site built or ordered?
bluebird5100 ordered locally
Is this door a kerfed door opening?
Hey Matt did you use the same reglet for base as you did around door ??
Sweet....futuristic trim...the future is here.
What do you mean finished with dry wall later after install reglet. You mean drywall compound?
My father was doing that in 1969 he was a drywall contractor from Dubuque Iowa everything he liked was Modern So when you say modern what year. And we call the bead that goes around the door L metal and it's no more expensive than regular metal the house that I grew up in was a totally trim free house.
Was I the only one SLIGHTLY distracted by Matt’s Black Eye and the Fart Fan graffiti’d by the Electrician in the bathroom behind him? Matt - did you get in a fight over a fart fan? :-)
Can you link the finished product? Thanks
sorry I like traditional trim.. what happens when the house shifts..you now seasonal..expansion/contraction.. cracks? might be nice look for a year or two..then how to fix? ripe it all out and start over? patch and repaint? and repeat?
how does this hold up over years?
Nobody asking about the shiner? Matt, blink twice if you're being held against your will to do these videos.