Man… my hat goes off to you on this idea and execution! As I was watching this video, all I could think of was the wicking effect that would occur without a capillary break and then you answered that concern. 👏 Great creativity and excellent finished product. 👍
Love this! Amazing job! I'm getting rid of all baseboards and door trim for my condo renovation. Can you please make a video of how to tile showers flush to drywal? like you have in your bathroom...
Just at the start but you can use a long leg L bead for a window return so the fiber comes up over the area where a baseboard would be. Look up trim-tex products. Good find on the BJ paint. Always start at commercial products for paints.
I’m trying to avoid drywall as much as possible. Lots of ideas in my brain, one is flush PVC trim that looks almost exactly like what you’ve done here except would probably need a bead or reveal if it has to butt up to drywall.
I absolutely love this detail! Definitely want to try on my next project. Have you had anyone want this but with a plaster wall? Any benefit over painting with the Scuff-X in particular for the base/whole wall? Lastly, for that bathroom feature, is the whole wall Durock into DensGlass or entirely DensGlass?
This would work well with plaster too but haven’t tried it yet. Have done it with a concrete micro-topping. The scuff-x finishes beautifully over wall board but I wouldn’t recommend it for wood application because it has too many solids for my liking there. For the flush tile, we transitioned from concrete wall board in the shower to two layers of Densglass (top one) capped with the metal L and redguarded where the tile returns flush.
Thx! I’ll do a video, but here a quick explanation- do double drywall (the top piece being fiberglass backed aka densglass). Then put a plastic L bead on the edge of the top piece. Finish your drywall. Then before tile starts, waterproof the edge of both sheets including the inside of the L bead & connect that waterproofing to the tile backer board. Now you’re ready to set your tile flush to the drywall. Either leave a grout joint or empty 1/16”shadow line gap in between the two flush materials.
Yes please make a video on this! The flush finish is beautiful. I’ve also seen this done with a concrete floor and permanent entryway mat that was flush. Details that you rarely see!
Briliant This is exactly what I was looking for. Cause I’m minimalist too. Can you please share the materials you used for that invisible baseboard and maybe a little video how to do it if you have. Thank you.
I remember seeing you on buildshow network in the past, glad that I found your youtube channel now that your no longer posting over there. Love your super modern details and designs. I was thinking of a detail where I wanted to run drywall into door frame (aluminum or steel) with no trim/casing just a flush transition. Just like you have with your bookshelf, but a door frame. I was worried about the drywall or in my case it would be veneer plaster cracking because of the different CTE's of the plaster and metal. What are your thoughts on that? Did you also use the L profile reglet where your wall runs into the bookcase or does they drywall go right to the wood? I was also planning on doing something similar on the floor wall transition but using a Z profile for a shadow gap.
Thanks for joining the party. I like to avoid caulking drywall to anything when given the option otherwise. Plastic L beads are my preferred method & require zero long term maintenance like caulking can
This is so clever. Could you please share the type of fiber glass gypsum you are using? I m considering replacing all baseboards in my house using you awesome approach
@DesignBuildDoug do you use 1/2 inch Densglass? If so, they are very hard to find due not being fire rated. The only option is 5/8 in which is fire rated but would be too thick..thoughts?
Hello, I am Korean, and this style has become very popular in Korea about 3 years ago. A person on a TH-cam channel called Interior Show introduced a method called no-molding, which became a huge trend. There are many people in the world who think the same way as you, and I wanted to let you know that it has been accepted in the market. Personally, I am planning to immigrate to the United States soon. I was planning on getting used to minimalist interiors in Korea, but I was quite disappointed when I saw the standard of remodeled houses in the U.S. With too much trim, the rooms always look crowded and cluttered. Even the tones of the furniture, doors, ceilings, and floors don't match. In Korea, there are already attempts to collaborate between furniture and materials teams to match the tone of all products. Once your eyes get used to minimalism, it is very difficult to go back. I think Americans are like that too. I would also like to tell you about hidden doors, which are very popular in Korea at the same time as non-moulding. They are integrated with the wall and have no handles, making them feel like part of the door. In my opinion, this is the pinnacle of minimalism. I'm so glad I found this video. There are a lot of materials available in Korea that will implement the details you're thinking of. It's even cheaper. You don't speak Korean, but I'm leaving a link because I want to show you the details and photos of the interior design they are aiming for. I support you very much and will definitely contact you if I ever need to remodel my house in the future. Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment at any time.
I don't see the link, but we are very interested in doing this, and any products that would help us do it. Also, and installation video would be great... not sure how you get that even reveal if the floors are uneven. We will be doing polished concrete as well. Also, does the trim support the weight of the drywall before you screw it to the wall, or do you need a temp spacer?
Amazing detail, we are building our house in San Juan Bautista, CA and that is the look that we are trying to achieve. Thank you for sharing and definitely will be using this technique in our project. By the way how did you do your the concrete floor. It looks amazing.
Hi mate, absolutely love the video and the effort gone into trial running this in your own home! So, what are your thoughts on using James Hardie Villaboard for the baseboard detail? Villaboard can be used like plaster and stopped up just the same, it comes in 9mm which would allow for the L-Bead to sit flush with existing 10mm plaster (which is what we use in Australia) Just wondering what your thoughts are on this and whether you see any glaring issue? Thanks from Australia!
Hey Doug. Nice look. You called the L shaped metal product you use at the bottom a "metal L-rig?" I didn't quite hear it right. Is that also what you use to trim out the casing on your doorways and shelves?
Metal L reglet (reglet being a generic term). This finished edge comes in plastic too. Some of my builder buddies like to use the TrimTex plastic tear away bead with a caulked to the floor finish as well.
Hey! Thankyou for amaZing design solutions! I have a question about instalation. Right now I am completly “rebuilding” my apartment. And in order to apply that buity you have created I need to plan ahead. I need to laydown parquet but also i need to install plasterboard walls. To create invisible baseboard my parquet must go under the wall segment. So floor first walls later? Am I right? I am just very afraid about builders damaging the final floor in the process… what would be your suggestion? How to order the jobs in construction?
@@DesignBuildDoug Great! So to be fool proof. 1st professionals do plaster walls, 2nd I am cutting out 6 inches of plaster from the ground. 3th - Parquet. 4th - finishing invisible baseboard? Sounds right?
@@kurisas1 Close. Just dont run the plaster down to the ground, that way you wont have to cut anything out. Then connect the two different types of wallboard with seam tape and finish everything the same
why not just dens glass the bottom 4 feet of all walls and then you don’t have to go through in a separate trim stage it’s just part of the boarding. Less joints overall.
Good question - you can, really depends on ceiling heights, size of drywall used, & where you want your seams. Often times we install 10 tall sheets of drywall, so the 4’ segment doesn’t usually come into play. Also the difference in material costs adds up. Try it out however your thinking though, & circle back & let us know!
honestly, my inclination would just be to use glass mat everywhere, or to draw the line at the-ceiling-wall joint- most manufacturers make a non-coloured glass mat “abuse resistant” board specifically for commercial/institutional hallways that will get filled and painted.
but at a mimimum…. if you’re already going to the trouble of using two materials, may as well make it ceiling height minus 8ft high and you therefore get maximum height of glass mat at bottom of wall without cutting any sheets / incurring waste for the main field of wall
Love this method and want to use it but are you ever concerned that having that tiny gap at the floor kind of compromises your air tightness? It feels like a caulked baseboard would be ideal in for that reason. I mean you could also caulk to the floor with your method but it would detract from the aesthetic. I may do this anyways - looks great
We achieve our air tightness from outside our building envelope. We actually welcome some connectivity of our interiors to our walls. Great for potential water leaks, very forgiving.
What I don't totally understand is flooring install. It seems to me that the baseboard covers up gaps between the floor and the wall. I can only figure that you have to install the floor BEFORE filling in the bottom 4" which is disappointing for me because I don't want to tear up my tile floor just to make the baseboard flush.
Densglass comes in 1/2” but if you can’t fine that in your area there are plenty of other 1/2” fiberglass backed gypsum alternatives that go by different names. Some of them are green.
Hey, (sorry for bad english) My screed is isolated from my bare wall (it is a solid timber wall), by a 8 mm thick perimeter isolation strip. Now the next step I think would be attaching (ie screwing) the metal-L reglet to the bare wall exactly with the upper edge line of finished floor level and finish the gypsum plasterboard covering of the timber wall. Now the tiles can be laid exactly underneath the plaster edge. First Question: Is this feasible in this way? Second Question: Now I have a (very) little gap ("shadow gap") between the upper edge of the tile and the plaster edge. You also have that little gap as far as I can tell from watching the video. When mopping the flor, water can flow into that gap, can't it? Would you leave that gap open, or would you fill it with a (of course flexible) joint sealer (such as silicone). What type of joint sealer would you take to close it? Thanks, Leo
Yes…caulking is optional & I typically only consider doing in wet spaces like bathrooms. I recommend a low profile swiffer type mop for common areas. If you use a sealant I would recommend Lexel by Sashco & would sponge it in prior to final paint
I love the look; but, doesn't the Denshield base create a butt joint with the drywall? Who wants to feather-out and sand a butt joint upwards and sideways every 8 feet on their hands and knees? (Denshield only comes in 3x5 and 4x8 as far as I know?)
I’ve got multiple photos on IG of this process via the hashtag #densbase & #invisiblebadeboard. This video was more conceptual in nature but I’ll plan an updated version that’s more technical in the future
All my questions answered!! Gorgeous!!
Thx!
Man… my hat goes off to you on this idea and execution! As I was watching this video, all I could think of was the wicking effect that would occur without a capillary break and then you answered that concern. 👏
Great creativity and excellent finished product. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I can hear every contractor within 1000 miles screaming “you can’t do it like that”!
Super nice baseboard detail,
Thanks! I'm glad you like it!
Love this! Amazing job! I'm getting rid of all baseboards and door trim for my condo renovation. Can you please make a video of how to tile showers flush to drywal? like you have in your bathroom...
Yes absolutely. The trick is double stacked 1/2”Densglass & an L bead. I’ll make a video…
"Dennsshield"
Nice video
Just at the start but you can use a long leg L bead for a window return so the fiber comes up over the area where a baseboard would be.
Look up trim-tex products.
Good find on the BJ paint.
Always start at commercial products for paints.
Amazing work
Thanks!
Finally a modern baseboard
I’m trying to avoid drywall as much as possible. Lots of ideas in my brain, one is flush PVC trim that looks almost exactly like what you’ve done here except would probably need a bead or reveal if it has to butt up to drywall.
I absolutely love this detail! Definitely want to try on my next project. Have you had anyone want this but with a plaster wall? Any benefit over painting with the Scuff-X in particular for the base/whole wall? Lastly, for that bathroom feature, is the whole wall Durock into DensGlass or entirely DensGlass?
This would work well with plaster too but haven’t tried it yet. Have done it with a concrete micro-topping.
The scuff-x finishes beautifully over wall board but I wouldn’t recommend it for wood application because it has too many solids for my liking there.
For the flush tile, we transitioned from concrete wall board in the shower to two layers of Densglass (top one) capped with the metal L and redguarded where the tile returns flush.
Incredible idea man. Thank you. Can you explain or do a vid on the flush tile shower wall please.
Thx! I’ll do a video, but here a quick explanation- do double drywall (the top piece being fiberglass backed aka densglass). Then put a plastic L bead on the edge of the top piece. Finish your drywall. Then before tile starts, waterproof the edge of both sheets including the inside of the L bead & connect that waterproofing to the tile backer board. Now you’re ready to set your tile flush to the drywall. Either leave a grout joint or empty 1/16”shadow line gap in between the two flush materials.
Yes please make a video on this! The flush finish is beautiful. I’ve also seen this done with a concrete floor and permanent entryway mat that was flush. Details that you rarely see!
Briliant
This is exactly what I was looking for. Cause I’m minimalist too.
Can you please share the materials you used for that invisible baseboard and maybe a little video how to do it if you have.
Thank you.
Yes, sure.
I remember seeing you on buildshow network in the past, glad that I found your youtube channel now that your no longer posting over there. Love your super modern details and designs. I was thinking of a detail where I wanted to run drywall into door frame (aluminum or steel) with no trim/casing just a flush transition. Just like you have with your bookshelf, but a door frame. I was worried about the drywall or in my case it would be veneer plaster cracking because of the different CTE's of the plaster and metal. What are your thoughts on that? Did you also use the L profile reglet where your wall runs into the bookcase or does they drywall go right to the wood? I was also planning on doing something similar on the floor wall transition but using a Z profile for a shadow gap.
Thanks for joining the party. I like to avoid caulking drywall to anything when given the option otherwise. Plastic L beads are my preferred method & require zero long term maintenance like caulking can
This is so clever. Could you please share the type of fiber glass gypsum you are using? I m considering replacing all baseboards in my house using you awesome approach
@DesignBuildDoug do you use 1/2 inch Densglass? If so, they are very hard to find due not being fire rated. The only option is 5/8 in which is fire rated but would be too thick..thoughts?
Its best to match to your drywall thickness. Both thicknesses in both materials are readily available in my area
Hello, I am Korean, and this style has become very popular in Korea about 3 years ago. A person on a TH-cam channel called Interior Show introduced a method called no-molding, which became a huge trend. There are many people in the world who think the same way as you, and I wanted to let you know that it has been accepted in the market. Personally, I am planning to immigrate to the United States soon. I was planning on getting used to minimalist interiors in Korea, but I was quite disappointed when I saw the standard of remodeled houses in the U.S. With too much trim, the rooms always look crowded and cluttered. Even the tones of the furniture, doors, ceilings, and floors don't match. In Korea, there are already attempts to collaborate between furniture and materials teams to match the tone of all products. Once your eyes get used to minimalism, it is very difficult to go back. I think Americans are like that too. I would also like to tell you about hidden doors, which are very popular in Korea at the same time as non-moulding. They are integrated with the wall and have no handles, making them feel like part of the door. In my opinion, this is the pinnacle of minimalism. I'm so glad I found this video. There are a lot of materials available in Korea that will implement the details you're thinking of. It's even cheaper. You don't speak Korean, but I'm leaving a link because I want to show you the details and photos of the interior design they are aiming for. I support you very much and will definitely contact you if I ever need to remodel my house in the future. Also, if you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment at any time.
No molding (무몰딩)
th-cam.com/video/iwFjaxVl45g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=FtkTrtocHHHPr7Gm
th-cam.com/video/cb9pOmt-F14/w-d-xo.htmlsi=-7fOeKbBGFTQNAFZ
th-cam.com/video/Z4OJ1mh1RJo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GWo0G1_I259tu3GE
Hidden door (히든도어)
th-cam.com/video/Le9_7Mattp0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=J0uJH0a4hefmR2Is
th-cam.com/video/mNdO6CsmiAI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=VFou3L9seKN5jGR3
I don't see the link, but we are very interested in doing this, and any products that would help us do it. Also, and installation video would be great... not sure how you get that even reveal if the floors are uneven. We will be doing polished concrete as well. Also, does the trim support the weight of the drywall before you screw it to the wall, or do you need a temp spacer?
Would it be possible to update the floor boards in the future with walls like these? Feels impractical in this sense
Yes absolutely, just wouldn’t be able to increase the new flooring height much.
What about flooring?
The trim usually hides the expansion gap at the edge of most flooring types (hardwood, tile, etc).
Expansion gaps rarely need to be more than 3/8”
Amazing detail, we are building our house in San Juan Bautista, CA and that is the look that we are trying to achieve. Thank you for sharing and definitely will be using this technique in our project. By the way how did you do your the concrete floor. It looks amazing.
Thanks for the wonderful feedback. I have a separate TH-cam video called Terrazzo Foundation
Thank you.
Hi mate, absolutely love the video and the effort gone into trial running this in your own home!
So, what are your thoughts on using James Hardie Villaboard for the baseboard detail?
Villaboard can be used like plaster and stopped up just the same, it comes in 9mm which would allow for the L-Bead to sit flush with existing 10mm plaster (which is what we use in Australia) Just wondering what your thoughts are on this and whether you see any glaring issue? Thanks from Australia!
I would recommend sticking with gypsum products to maintain similar expansion & contraction rates
Hey Doug. Nice look. You called the L shaped metal product you use at the bottom a "metal L-rig?" I didn't quite hear it right. Is that also what you use to trim out the casing on your doorways and shelves?
Metal L reglet (reglet being a generic term). This finished edge comes in plastic too. Some of my builder buddies like to use the TrimTex plastic tear away bead with a caulked to the floor finish as well.
i hate trim my self, im thinking of doing a shadow bead and raise the drywall the floor maybe 1/2"
Hey! Thankyou for amaZing design solutions! I have a question about instalation. Right now I am completly “rebuilding” my apartment. And in order to apply that buity you have created I need to plan ahead. I need to laydown parquet but also i need to install plasterboard walls. To create invisible baseboard my parquet must go under the wall segment. So floor first walls later? Am I right? I am just very afraid about builders damaging the final floor in the process… what would be your suggestion? How to order the jobs in construction?
Yes absolutely, floors first with this detail or it will never look right. Protect the parquet with Ramboard & potentially even plastic at times.
@@DesignBuildDoug Great! So to be fool proof. 1st professionals do plaster walls, 2nd I am cutting out 6 inches of plaster from the ground. 3th - Parquet. 4th - finishing invisible baseboard?
Sounds right?
@@kurisas1 Close. Just dont run the plaster down to the ground, that way you wont have to cut anything out. Then connect the two different types of wallboard with seam tape and finish everything the same
why not just dens glass the bottom 4 feet of all walls and then you don’t have to go through in a separate trim stage it’s just part of the boarding. Less joints overall.
Good question - you can, really depends on ceiling heights, size of drywall used, & where you want your seams. Often times we install 10 tall sheets of drywall, so the 4’ segment doesn’t usually come into play. Also the difference in material costs adds up. Try it out however your thinking though, & circle back & let us know!
honestly, my inclination would just be to use glass mat everywhere, or to draw the line at the-ceiling-wall joint- most manufacturers make a non-coloured glass mat “abuse resistant” board specifically for commercial/institutional hallways that will get filled and painted.
but at a mimimum…. if you’re already going to the trouble of using two materials, may as well make it ceiling height minus 8ft high and you therefore get maximum height of glass mat at bottom of wall without cutting any sheets / incurring waste for the main field of wall
Like I said we used 10’ sheets of drywall so there was very little waste & material costs were the most minimal possible
@@2brazy4ubitch pay more 💰 if you like 👍🏽
Beautiful! what type of tape and mud do you use on this where the fiberglass board and regular drywall meet ?
You can use hot mud or regular mud.
Do you need a tape?
Love this method and want to use it but are you ever concerned that having that tiny gap at the floor kind of compromises your air tightness? It feels like a caulked baseboard would be ideal in for that reason. I mean you could also caulk to the floor with your method but it would detract from the aesthetic. I may do this anyways - looks great
We achieve our air tightness from outside our building envelope. We actually welcome some connectivity of our interiors to our walls. Great for potential water leaks, very forgiving.
What I don't totally understand is flooring install. It seems to me that the baseboard covers up gaps between the floor and the wall. I can only figure that you have to install the floor BEFORE filling in the bottom 4" which is disappointing for me because I don't want to tear up my tile floor just to make the baseboard flush.
Sorry typically this install requires floors first though there are some work arounds but complexity increases.
Awesome project. Want to do it at mine. Does the water not get under the reveal and damage the interwall?
In dry areas no. For wet areas a super thin bead of crystal clear Lexel hits the spot.
So you used 5/8 normal drywall up top to make it flush with the 5/8 dens glass? I couldn’t find it in a 1/2in size.
Densglass comes in 1/2” but if you can’t fine that in your area there are plenty of other 1/2” fiberglass backed gypsum alternatives that go by different names. Some of them are green.
@@DesignBuildDoug thank you so much! Trying this out in my home Reno!
Same here I cannot find 1/2 inch. Did you end up finding other brand?
Hey, (sorry for bad english)
My screed is isolated from my bare wall (it is a solid timber wall), by a 8 mm thick perimeter isolation strip.
Now the next step I think would be attaching (ie screwing) the metal-L reglet to the bare wall exactly with the upper edge line of finished floor level and finish the gypsum plasterboard covering of the timber wall.
Now the tiles can be laid exactly underneath the plaster edge.
First Question: Is this feasible in this way?
Second Question: Now I have a (very) little gap ("shadow gap") between the upper edge of the tile and the plaster edge. You also have that little gap as far as I can tell from watching the video.
When mopping the flor, water can flow into that gap, can't it? Would you leave that gap open, or would you fill it with a (of course flexible) joint sealer (such as silicone). What type of joint sealer would you take to close it?
Thanks,
Leo
Yes…caulking is optional & I typically only consider doing in wet spaces like bathrooms. I recommend a low profile swiffer type mop for common areas. If you use a sealant I would recommend Lexel by Sashco & would sponge it in prior to final paint
I love the look; but, doesn't the Denshield base create a butt joint with the drywall? Who wants to feather-out and sand a butt joint upwards and sideways every 8 feet on their hands and knees? (Denshield only comes in 3x5 and 4x8 as far as I know?)
Drywallers
What happens when the house moves? Does the floor bumps into the wall?
No
what is your detail at the door jamb?
In this case we used an extended oak jamb (3/8” past drywall) & returned the drywall into it.
Would you recommend using a hardiebacker instead?
Hardie could expand & contract at a different rate than the gypsum drywall
I have a quick question mate; did you use a P50 bead at the base, or just a heavy duty L bead?
Just a standard L bead. You can use either plastic or metal
Where is the install video ? (you out in cuts in this video)
I’ve got multiple photos on IG of this process via the hashtag #densbase & #invisiblebadeboard. This video was more conceptual in nature but I’ll plan an updated version that’s more technical in the future