hey bmate you forgot to say that the rounded side of your vanes go toward the outside of the pump if you put them backward they can bind up al;so completly screw up your powersteering pupm and is super inportant that the flat side of thge vanes is toward the spline rounded side tow3ard the pump houseing just in case ppl didnt know that is super inportant
This comment was useful. Thanks for being helpful too by making this video. Yes, you look just like a leprechaun in your laboratory. Apt name. Good alliteration.
I’d like to just after 26 years ago when I was rebuilding these things we called the impeller retaining clip, the “O-Jesus clip”. Because we would say, O-Jesus I wish I could get this bloody thing off. Four other points, one any undercut in the shaft caused by front seal need to be polished out and any chatter marks pump body, also need to be polished out. Holding the assembly in a vice makes life easy. Using a Tool-Makers Scriber as sold by Snap-on, helps to removing the O-Rings. Congratulations on your fine tutorial.
Finally, someone who didn't just replace the entire pump but resealed it. This style of pump is in all kinds of vehicles. I was just able rebuilt this pump, including replacing the shaft seal, because of your video, that was in my 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 w/ Cummins diesel motor. In other videos they didn't replace the shaft seal because they didn't know how to remove the rotor and take the shaft out the front way. Thank you! If you could find one of the old Gen 2 Dodge trucks with the Cummins motor and make a rebuild video of that power steering and vacuum pump unit, there would be many grateful Dodge diesel fans. It may not look like it from the outside of the pump, because of the reservoir, but that pump is in there.
Seriously, the ONLY video out there right now on this very common pump so thank you much!! I've yet to attempt this but my version (C4 Corvette) has a small snap ring on the other side as well. EDIT: I would recommend adding to your title or description the keywords "Saginaw TC" and "GM Type II" so that more people can discover this very helpful video!
Thanks for the video. Came across it randomly and saved me a bunch of cash when I fixed up my 2007 Pontiac g6. To hell with that small snap ring though...😅
Thank you for the guidance on dismantling the GM Power Steering Pump. The pump in my wife's 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L is a GM Saginaw Type 2 Series TC with an EVO valve (EVO means Electronic Variable Orifice) Variable Assist Power Steering. While somewhat different in design from your pump, it was enough similar that your video gave me confidence to proceed. The Jeep is back on the road for the cost of a Gates brand rebuild kit (one bearing and a half-dozen o-rings) at $14.20 USD. The 6203RS bearing was shot. I probably could have changed only the bearing and called it good, as the bearing and drive shaft are held in by an internal snap-ring from the pulley end. The far end of the shaft is supported by a caged needle bearing built into the end-cap. The vanes (perfectly symmetric and reversible in the series TC) were like new as was just about everything else inside the pump; amazing for 182K miles. By far the hardest part of the job was getting the end-cap off. It was quite different in design from yours - a heavy block of machined steel with no place to grip on for removal.
Hi i have a rebuild job on my 1995 Jeep 4.0 Wrangler YJ as far as im aware same pump as yours.Do you have any information on the Gates rebuild kit part number? This would help me track down the correct kit i need
@@colin5064 Our 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0L used Gates Kit #348489. It can be found on Amazon, where we bought ours, or from Rock Auto. See my Amazon review. I wasn't 100% happy with the Gates kit. The pulley-side bearing was of a lower quality than the OEM part. A mistake I made when rebuilding our pump was not pouring an ounce or two of new PS fluid (to pre-lube and prime the pump) into the backside of the pump before I put the cover back on. The rebuilt pump screamed and squealed before finally drawing in fluid from the reservoir after starting the engine. Flushing out the old, nasty PS fluid is important. Several TH-cam videos on the topic are out there, but I found them to be ineffective, leaving most of the dirty fluid behind. I paid a shop to change our PS fluid several times over the years, only to find the new fluid never looked all that new after the work was done. Now I know why. See blog entry www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/power-steering-fluid-change-192655/index2/ for a method of flushing out the old fluid I developed that really does a good and thorough job.
I just have to say thank you very much, not everyone out there do videos like that, I do appreciated very much again thank you,ps keep making more videos thanks.
Thank you I am not sure but looking at the video you looked like you may have been in the outback a bit of the way from a harbor freight tool store so you did a very good job of explaining the rebuild process for the average guy at home who does not have access to a bunch of special tools which most people will not have in their home shop. I teach auto shop and this would be a video I would show to my students, I would add a bit about the pressure regulator behind the big 1" nut looking fitting and how to clean the burrs off the valve inside of the regulator they will stick sometimes if you are installing a salvage yard pump that has been setting a while which can lead to no pressure due to the valve bypassing the regulator. The only other thing I would like for you to show is how you removed the outer tank they can be a pain sometimes to pull off the pump body, But great job and I also liked the speed thru the parts that took time getting the old hard o-ring out, I use a dentist pick which is handy in auto transmission building as well.nThanks again for taking the time to do this for us. 5toedwillie likes
Some tips for removing the small snap ring: If the rotating shaft/pulley is annoying, put a screwdriver through the pulley and one of the bolt holes. Also, if you don't have snap ring pliers, you can try getting in there with the needle nose pliers, and pulling them apart. That might be easier than two screwdrivers.
Nice video. Be carefully with the large main snap ring. I must not have seated it too good as it pushed the snap ring and end plate out on start up. Tap in a little just to be sure.
Nice video. It looks like I'll be rebuilding mine, and I wanted to see how it's done. That's all within my skills and tools. One thing though, you have a vice, use it. :) It would have saved you a lot of hassle with the pump moving around while both of your hands were busy.
That snap-ring looked like a real pain in the arse, Is there any reason you didn't just remove the pulley and take the shaft out that way leaving the snap-ring connected ?
Nice video for sure. Just wondering if you could post the oring dimensions, for those of us who would head down to a industrial seal supplier. I noticed there were also a couple of bronze washers in your seal kit
Gm has two different pumps are the pump bodies the same to rebuild one an electronic controlled pump and the other one is Manuel controlled and where do you get the rebuild kits Hank
Hi the high pressure pipe part that screws off how does the spring and other thing go back in mine fell out and not sure how they went back in as i have no power steering at the minute its really hard to steer thanks in advance
Hey man. It looks like you have a GM type 2 pump? If so what are the chances you have a part number for that? Probably pretty slim since you did this video 3 years ago. Or do you know what type of vehicle that type 2 comes out of so I can go to an autoparts store to find? Thanks!
Noticed you didn't remove the reg valve and clean the micro filter in there, that's what the other provided o ring was for in the kit, great vid though very informative just redone mine this week
My 98 Chevy pump drips all the time. Every day I have to put in fluid. I never fill it up. But I think I have to take the pulley off because the shaft goes through the mounting bracket.
What about the pressure adjusting valve it's got O ring on it. It would be nice if you had pulled out that ring and showed us how to replace and do adjustment if needed.
Thanks for the video mate! Though I have a question. Although i don’t have any leaks on my steering pump, I do have grinding noise and difficulty steering on low speeds especially when I’m trying to park. Will this same rebuild process help me as well?
This may sound like a stupid question, but have you checked your power steering fluid level? Grinding noise and difficulty steering are common symptoms of low fluid, and adding fluid is an easy fix.
@@chaoslord8918 No the reservoir is full of clean fluid, so it's not low. I did notice that this problem exacerbate after a long drive, aka the car is warmed up. It's definitely very smooth when I start driving the car.
Now, I haven't tried this myself... yet, but as long as we're hammering on sockets, why not use a socket to put the little snap ring back on? A socket that barely fits over the shaft should do the job. And if you can't do it with a hammer, just press it on there with your handy-dandy clamp.
Hey Mate, we are looking to replace the lip seal, are we able to do it from the pully side or do we need to take it all apart like you have? ie pull the shaft out etc.. Cheers
Hey mate, No need for 3 or 4 hands, just use a vise. And, invest in a couple types of snap ring pliers - will save you hours, your vids will be so much shorter!
Are you joking? That thing you called a "bottom plate"...is that a bearing? or a bushing? and if it is a wear part,..why are you putting it back in rather than installing a new one? Maybe you should have labeled your video "how to repair a leaking power steering pump"..a little less misleading, don't you thing.
He replaced the seals and o-rings. The parts that can leak. That's how you fix a leaking pump. The rebuild kits don't come with the extra internal parts. If yours is worn beyond serviceability, you'll obviously need to change those parts. His appeared to still be perfectly serviceable. It's up to the tech repairing or rebuilding a part to determine if other parts are worn too much. If you don't like his video, go make your own better video showing how you'd do it better than him. If the parts inside are no longer serviceable, the pump isn't rebuildable. Stick it back together, and hand it in as a core for the new one.
hey bmate you forgot to say that the rounded side of your vanes go toward the outside of the pump if you put them backward they can bind up al;so completly screw up your powersteering pupm and is super inportant that the flat side of thge vanes is toward the spline rounded side tow3ard the pump houseing just in case ppl didnt know that is super inportant
Cheers for the info! Have pinned the comment for people viewing in future!
This comment was useful. Thanks for being helpful too by making this video. Yes, you look just like a leprechaun in your laboratory. Apt name. Good alliteration.
Looking at my vanes i cant really see a difference, how obvious should the rounded side be?
@@Funkyflykiwi mine were rounded on both sides so if yours are too just stick them in any way and it doesnt make a difference
I’d like to just after 26 years ago when I was rebuilding these things we called the impeller retaining clip, the “O-Jesus clip”. Because we would say, O-Jesus I wish I could get this bloody thing off.
Four other points, one any undercut in the shaft caused by front seal need to be polished out and any chatter marks pump body, also need to be polished out. Holding the assembly in a vice makes life easy. Using a Tool-Makers Scriber as sold by Snap-on, helps to removing the O-Rings. Congratulations on your fine tutorial.
Finally, someone who didn't just replace the entire pump but resealed it. This style of pump is in all kinds of vehicles. I was just able rebuilt this pump, including replacing the shaft seal, because of your video, that was in my 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 w/ Cummins diesel motor. In other videos they didn't replace the shaft seal because they didn't know how to remove the rotor and take the shaft out the front way. Thank you! If you could find one of the old Gen 2 Dodge trucks with the Cummins motor and make a rebuild video of that power steering and vacuum pump unit, there would be many grateful Dodge diesel fans. It may not look like it from the outside of the pump, because of the reservoir, but that pump is in there.
Seriously, the ONLY video out there right now on this very common pump so thank you much!! I've yet to attempt this but my version (C4 Corvette) has a small snap ring on the other side as well. EDIT: I would recommend adding to your title or description the keywords "Saginaw TC" and "GM Type II" so that more people can discover this very helpful video!
Thanks for the video. Came across it randomly and saved me a bunch of cash when I fixed up my 2007 Pontiac g6. To hell with that small snap ring though...😅
Thank you for the guidance on dismantling the GM Power Steering Pump.
The pump in my wife's 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L is a GM Saginaw Type 2 Series TC with an EVO valve (EVO means Electronic Variable Orifice) Variable Assist Power Steering. While somewhat different in design from your pump, it was enough similar that your video gave me confidence to proceed. The Jeep is back on the road for the cost of a Gates brand rebuild kit (one bearing and a half-dozen o-rings) at $14.20 USD. The 6203RS bearing was shot. I probably could have changed only the bearing and called it good, as the bearing and drive shaft are held in by an internal snap-ring from the pulley end. The far end of the shaft is supported by a caged needle bearing built into the end-cap. The vanes (perfectly symmetric and reversible in the series TC) were like new as was just about everything else inside the pump; amazing for 182K miles. By far the hardest part of the job was getting the end-cap off. It was quite different in design from yours - a heavy block of machined steel with no place to grip on for removal.
Hi i have a rebuild job on my 1995 Jeep 4.0 Wrangler YJ as far as im aware same pump as yours.Do you have any information on the Gates rebuild kit part number?
This would help me track down the correct kit i need
@@colin5064 Our 1996 Grand Cherokee 4.0L used Gates Kit #348489. It can be found on Amazon, where we bought ours, or from Rock Auto. See my Amazon review. I wasn't 100% happy with the Gates kit. The pulley-side bearing was of a lower quality than the OEM part.
A mistake I made when rebuilding our pump was not pouring an ounce or two of new PS fluid (to pre-lube and prime the pump) into the backside of the pump before I put the cover back on. The rebuilt pump screamed and squealed before finally drawing in fluid from the reservoir after starting the engine.
Flushing out the old, nasty PS fluid is important. Several TH-cam videos on the topic are out there, but I found them to be ineffective, leaving most of the dirty fluid behind. I paid a shop to change our PS fluid several times over the years, only to find the new fluid never looked all that new after the work was done. Now I know why. See blog entry www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/power-steering-fluid-change-192655/index2/ for a method of flushing out the old fluid I developed that really does a good and thorough job.
@@jpcallan97225 Hi John, thank you so much for the most kind update and info ref this job.Duly noted and very much appreciated
@@colin5064 opmooo
Really brave man that dare to fix this pump.Grats and Thanks for this informative video.
Thanks mate appreciate the video ,still getting views 4years on and just before the brown stuff hits the fan.Stay healthy mate
Great video! The tip about being able to leave the pulley on and just pull the shaft out from the front saved me a ton of time.
Thanks for the video, it was so helpful.
Thank you that was very helpful & also helps explain why my pump looses pressure at hot idle.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to video tape that. You RoCk. Cheers from So. Ca. USA
Thanks for the video, I will go forth and repair/rebuild my power steering pump with the confidence that you exude. Nicely done!
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to go through details and techniques
Awesome, thanks heaps, always great to see an Aussie made vid ☺
Good video, nobody in Poland wants to rebuild the GM pump, I will try to do it myself now
I co zrrgenerowales sam ??
Also, that pump has been used for decades and decades and just about everything imaginable. I have almost the exact same pump on my '74 Eldorado.
Great tutorial, thanks. Just replaced my pump but next time will rebuild it
I just have to say thank you very much, not everyone out there do videos like that, I do appreciated very much again thank you,ps keep making more videos thanks.
Thank you I am not sure but looking at the video you looked like you may have been in the outback a bit of the way from a harbor freight tool store so you did a very good job of explaining the rebuild process for the average guy at home who does not have access to a bunch of special tools which most people will not have in their home shop. I teach auto shop and this would be a video I would show to my students, I would add a bit about the pressure regulator behind the big 1" nut looking fitting and how to clean the burrs off the valve inside of the regulator they will stick sometimes if you are installing a salvage yard pump that has been setting a while which can lead to no pressure due to the valve bypassing the regulator. The only other thing I would like for you to show is how you removed the outer tank they can be a pain sometimes to pull off the pump body, But great job and I also liked the speed thru the parts that took time getting the old hard o-ring out, I use a dentist pick which is handy in auto transmission building as well.nThanks again for taking the time to do this for us. 5toedwillie likes
Some tips for removing the small snap ring:
If the rotating shaft/pulley is annoying, put a screwdriver through the pulley and one of the bolt holes. Also, if you don't have snap ring pliers, you can try getting in there with the needle nose pliers, and pulling them apart. That might be easier than two screwdrivers.
Wow! Thanks for the video! It's very useful.
Do you have a part number for the sealing kit maybe?
Great video indeed a seal kit but in the UK. Do you have a part number so I can see if I can get the same one as yours. Thank you 🙏
G8 vid for us home mechanics on a budget
Thankyou for the tutorial you explained the process in a easy way to understand thumbs up from me ,I subscribed to your channel.
I'm looking for a part number for your rebuild kit
You're the king. Thanks man.
Nice video. Be carefully with the large main snap ring. I must not have seated it too good as it pushed the snap ring and end plate out on start up. Tap in a little just to be sure.
Excellent video👍
Can you remove the pulley to just replace the front seal?
Nice video. It looks like I'll be rebuilding mine, and I wanted to see how it's done. That's all within my skills and tools. One thing though, you have a vice, use it. :) It would have saved you a lot of hassle with the pump moving around while both of your hands were busy.
That snap-ring looked like a real pain in the arse, Is there any reason you didn't just remove the pulley and take the shaft out that way leaving the snap-ring connected ?
is the reverse flow power steering pump similar to rebuild from an lt1 engine? I would guess there isn't too much difference from pump to pum?
Thnxs 4 that ive got a v6 but im guessing the principles will b the same.
What sets the end play on the pump my pump has a ton of endplay like a millermeter or more by eye
Nice video for sure. Just wondering if you could post the oring dimensions, for those of us who would head down to a industrial seal supplier.
I noticed there were also a couple of bronze washers in your seal kit
I got a seal kit from Bursons, if you're in Aust. The kit had extra seals for other cars. My kit suited some old Valiants and Fords too.
Great video.... now to do the one in my Hilux 4x4..
Just as well I have a commodore engine in it... 😂🤣
Gm has two different pumps are the pump bodies the same to rebuild one an electronic controlled pump and the other one is Manuel controlled and where do you get the rebuild kits Hank
Hi the high pressure pipe part that screws off how does the spring and other thing go back in mine fell out and not sure how they went back in as i have no power steering at the minute its really hard to steer thanks in advance
Is this a Type 2 pump?
Hey man. It looks like you have a GM type 2 pump? If so what are the chances you have a part number for that? Probably pretty slim since you did this video 3 years ago. Or do you know what type of vehicle that type 2 comes out of so I can go to an autoparts store to find? Thanks!
Noticed you didn't remove the reg valve and clean the micro filter in there, that's what the other provided o ring was for in the kit, great vid though very informative just redone mine this week
Does the snap ring have two holes for a special tool?
Which type of paste/grease did you use? It could be used ATF oil instead?
The back of my pump, the snap ring and that plate blew out the back of the pump whole driveing, not sure I can fix it or not
Any website to buy a rebuild kit
Tip hen removing the snap ring. Shove your pick through the hole on the side it pushes the ring out so you can get another pick behind it.
How do you replace the sleeve that the shaft slides through?
My 98 Chevy pump drips all the time.
Every day I have to put in fluid. I never fill it up.
But I think I have to take the pulley off because the shaft goes through the mounting bracket.
Snap ring pliers?
Can u rebuild holden steering rack.
Thank you!!!
what specific LS1 pump is this ? you have the part number ? i would appreciate it. thank you
What about the pressure adjusting valve it's got O ring on it. It would be nice if you had pulled out that ring and showed us how to replace and do adjustment if needed.
Awesome vid 👍🏻
Good job 👍👍👍👍👍
How do I replace the low pressure hose fitting?
What gm did that come off of
Cheers nice vid and good tips on all the shit bits
Thanks for the video mate!
Though I have a question. Although i don’t have any leaks on my steering pump, I do have grinding noise and difficulty steering on low speeds especially when I’m trying to park. Will this same rebuild process help me as well?
This may sound like a stupid question, but have you checked your power steering fluid level? Grinding noise and difficulty steering are common symptoms of low fluid, and adding fluid is an easy fix.
@@chaoslord8918 No the reservoir is full of clean fluid, so it's not low. I did notice that this problem exacerbate after a long drive, aka the car is warmed up. It's definitely very smooth when I start driving the car.
@@Damage42X You can get a changeover for about $150. Seal Kit is about $30, (AUD)
what's size bearing?
Good video 👍👍👍👌😎
They have SNAP RING PLIERS at the auto parts store
I believe that should be called a Saginaw style pump and are fairly common on American made vehicles.
Now, I haven't tried this myself... yet, but as long as we're hammering on sockets, why not use a socket to put the little snap ring back on? A socket that barely fits over the shaft should do the job. And if you can't do it with a hammer, just press it on there with your handy-dandy clamp.
bril!
Anyone have a part number for the kit?
26091698 Genuine Holden New Power Steering Pump Seal Repair Kit VS
Hey Mate, we are looking to replace the lip seal, are we able to do it from the pully side or do we need to take it all apart like you have? ie pull the shaft out etc..
Cheers
Hey mate, No need for 3 or 4 hands, just use a vise. And, invest in a couple types of snap ring pliers - will save you hours, your vids will be so much shorter!
👍👍👍👍👍🙏🙏
f@#king awesome vid
If you pull the pulley off.....the job of internal disassembly will be soooooo much easier....ASK ME HOW I KNOW
Dont be so lazy next time 😁
Are you joking? That thing you called a "bottom plate"...is that a bearing? or a bushing? and if it is a wear part,..why are you putting it back in rather than installing a new one? Maybe you should have labeled your video "how to repair a leaking power steering pump"..a little less misleading, don't you thing.
thanks for your informative and useless comment 🍻
Just trying to let those with slow connections not waste their time thinking this was actually a rebuild like the title said.
@@BoostGumps
@mister clean You must be kidding for sure,....A bearing was NOT referred to as a bottom plate.
@@clayaustin9339 - Did we miss your TH-cam Channel?
He replaced the seals and o-rings. The parts that can leak. That's how you fix a leaking pump. The rebuild kits don't come with the extra internal parts. If yours is worn beyond serviceability, you'll obviously need to change those parts. His appeared to still be perfectly serviceable. It's up to the tech repairing or rebuilding a part to determine if other parts are worn too much.
If you don't like his video, go make your own better video showing how you'd do it better than him. If the parts inside are no longer serviceable, the pump isn't rebuildable. Stick it back together, and hand it in as a core for the new one.